Amanbagh

On toAmanbagh, which in some ways I feel was the highlight of our trip. We spent four nights here, and I would gladly go back and spend many more. The property was complete Aman—absolutely impeccable service, wonderful management, fantastic architecture and setting—and we left with a ton of wonderful memories.

We stayed at a pool haveli which was wonderfully spacious. The room is separated into two separate structures connected by a hall; with the bedroom on one side and the bathroom and dressing area on the other. The room was lovely, very well maintained, with no real signs of any wear from time. The architecture of the property overall is just breathtaking—the pink marble and sandstone, the pool, the main building--all are beautifully done.

The food was the best that we had anywhere on the trip, and I would say I had some of the best Indian dishes I have had anywhere were at Amanbagh. We did a few excursions, including most memorably the cow dust tour. The tour is eye opening, beautiful, and the people of the nearby farming communities really welcoming and genuine. Having said that, the poverty is incredible (equal to that I have seen in Cambodia or Nepal for example) and heart wrenching. I couldn’t help but be a bit instrospective that many of the families probably couldn’t pay for a room for a night with 2 or 3 years worth of income. Or that the bottle of champagne we had with our chatri dinner was probably a years income. Yikes. That aside, that and every other destination was really memorable, from Bangarh to the lake walk to the temple visit. The the chatri dinner was simply amazingly well done. Private sitar player and all, this was simply excellent.

Finally, the staff and service were truly exceptional. The first night of our stay was our 10th anniversary, and we came back to our room to be surprised by 3 of the staff who offered us an anniversary blessing, song, and an anniversary cake. It was completely unexpected (I think they hid for close to an hour to surprise us) and absolutely charming and beautiful. And really the whole stay was full of moments like that to one degree or another. Overall an absolutely amazing property. My compliments to Tim and Laeitia, I think that this is probably my second favorite Aman (second only to Amanpulo which is my favorite place on the planet!). I know I am omitting a dozen other great things about the place, like the spa, and lots of other little things. Suffice to say that it was entirely wonderful, without even the tiniest miss on the quality of service or the beauty of the property.