Elsewhere, Goa - A quiet escape

Elsewhere is a boutique property situated in North Goa. Its essentially a huge coconut grove thats been owned by the local Sequeira family for over 200 years, and is now managed by the family's scion, Daniel, a notable fashion photographer. Its something of a secret escape, and is nearly notorious for their emphasis on privacy - to the point that they refuse to give an address until a booking is actually made. Quite a few a-listers have reportedly stayed here (no confirmation on this, as the property never divulges that detail), from Indian author Amitav Ghosh, to the Jolie-Pitts (who some claim even conceived here). We had a nice, relaxing stay here, but its an admittedly divisive property that is clearly NOT for everyone. 

Elsewhere isn't all that easy too book. You can only snag it either through indie agents, or contact them directly. Further, they generally require a stay of at least a week, and an upfront full payment - something that almost put us off as we were simply looking for a weekend escape from BOM.

In any case, we took the chance and wrote to them, to get a prompt and detailed mail telling us that some space was available between bookings, and that we'd be happily received at the property. The mail thread was free flowing and contained advice about the property itself (more on this later), and suggestions for transfers.

Elsewhere has outsourced its transfers to a local taxi company, which we liked as its a more direct way of contributing to the local economy. The driver picked my wife up at GOI, me en route (I was in Goa already for work), and then drove us on to the property. Its a largely smooth, but fairly long 2 hour drive. The property typically includes an ice box with cold water, some cold towels, and a handwritten welcome letter - quite a friendly touch. Its a bit laidback, but thats the vibe of Goa anyway, so we weren't complaining. 

This is the real highlight of the property - with a capital everything.

Elsewhere is essentially a family estate swathed in elephant grass and coconut palms, that occupies a spit of land wedged between a creek and a near-private beach thats used only by the fishing village up the coast (the fishermen actually dock at one end of the beach and will happily talk to you - while property guards ensure that your room and belongings are kept safe). The neighbouring public beach is a bit busier, but is cut off for most of the day thanks to the tidal swell in the intervening stream (keeping its few crowds well at bay). The only access to the property is through a bamboo bridge over the delightfully named Otter Creek.

The exact location is kept a secret, and while its not particularly difficult to spot it while scrolling us along the Goan coast on Maps, I'll keep things under wraps. In any case, its in the far North of Goa, near the now chic beach of Ashwem with its pop-up boutiques and excellent cafes. Its a safe distance away from the party drags, but in easy reach should you feel the need to do that kind of thing.

All of these attributes make for a singular Goan stay. After nine trips to the place, I can safely say that no other Goan hotel - big or small - has such direct access to such a quiet beach, while being within a sane driving distance of sightseeing and other activities. In contrast, fancier resorts in the deep South of the state are a bit too isolated, and hardly ever offer the kind of beach access as at Elsewhere. 

The drive ended after dark, in a nondescript village square full of sounds of dishwashing and cackling farm animals. A small army of staff was waiting to receive us, and while the younger ones quickly took our luggage and went off, the manager ushered us slowly into the property through what must be one of the most magical entrances ever - through the village, onto a bamboo bridge lit with lanterns, over the 'Otter Creek', through a wooden gateway where a member of staff welcomed us, climbed a coconut tree, came down with two coconuts, hacked them, offered them to us as a welcome drink, then on through a breezy grassland lit by fairy lights, past the skeleton of a baleen whale that washed up on the shore many years ago, and finally to our seaside cottage where candles marked the doorway. All of this with the sound of waves crashing in the background, and its a wonder we didn't swoon once. 

That was check-in. No signatures, no waiting, nothing. Just a straight, spectacular entry to our rooms. Formalities, they said would be taken care of after we were well rested (and, I suspect, a bit closer to our breaths which had been aptly taken away).

Elsewhere has less than a dozen units. Three of these are value-for-money tents that sit on the creek, and come with their decks. These are not air-conditioned, which is a huge inconvenience given how hot Goa can get even in season.

The rest are a set of far-spaced cottages, all of them dating to over 200 years ago when a Portuguese pastor-ancestor of the Sequeiras used to live here. The cottages are picture perfect - exquisitly restored, painted in bright pastels, and set at the edge of the sand - as Goa as it can get, personally speaking.

All cottages have at least two bedrooms, and are named for their former functions. Some have air-conditioning, and barring the Bakery, all must be rented out as a whole. All are done up in a kind of spartan chic aesthetic that is clearly the work of the fashion photographer owner. Local plaster floors, antique christian relics, wicker beds, and a stunning bathroom with brass fixtures and terracotta decorations make for a simple, but pretty and comfortable stay. 

The Bakery, where we stayed, consists of two detached double bedrooms that can be rented out individually. As there were only the two of us, this option worked best. The other cottages are great for families and groups, and some come with their own pantries and decks. 

Rates for Elsewhere do not include breakfast. All meals are served a la carte in an open air living area near the main cottage, deep in the plantation. Its a barefoot space surrounded by trees and fishnet curtains, with a fairly comprehensive menu that traverses Indian and Continental fare, and a good selection of seafood. The in-house chef is well trained, and can tweak dishes based on your dietary preferences, but do not expect gourmet dining. This is simple, wholesome fare - the kind a friend is likely to whip up.

Meals can also be served at a dining table under a stunning Banyan Tree nearby. This is equally pretty a spot, especially for a candle lit dinner!

Costs are very cheap - comparable to good Goan beach shacks. And alcohol in Goa is the cheapest anywhere in the country, so all your meals are likely to be very merry. 

Staff is more than happy to recommend nearby eateries, and arrange a taxi (or in some cases, suggest a scenic walk or two). Do check out La Plage on nearby Ashwem Beach if you end up here. 

I'd like to call Elsewhere an exponent of castaway or rustic chic. The influence of the fashion photographer owner is quite obvious - all spaces, indoors or outdoors, seem ready for a swimwear shoot, and are generally quite gorgeous to look at. Even the cheaper tents are a visual treat with their pastel tones and bamboo over-water decks; while the cottages are straight off stunners with their colonial vibes.

As this is a small, family-run, boutique operation, Elsewhere places far more focus on 'experience' rather than amenities. This of course, translates to the absolute lack of most modern conveniences.

There is no swimming pool, though the ocean is right at your doorstep. There is no room service, though the shack is a two minute stroll away. There is no television or wifi, but there are hammocks and day beds to just while your time away. There is no chamber music, but there is the constant sound of waves and swaying palms. And so on and so forth. Essentially, this is a place for those seeking some serious peace and solitude.

That said and done, there are a few conveniences available. These include basic snorkeling gear, outdoor showers, basic bath kits, and a complimentary minibar (beers included!), a lavazza coffee maker, and a wine rack. The main house also has a working computer with internet connection, should you sadly need to access it. 

The only grouse? Its not particularly cheap, especially if you visit in peak season. I suspect plenty of people will get a bit bored of the escapism when staying here for a full week. Our weekend detox though, was an absolute delight. 

Service at Elsewhere is more curt than courteous. While the staff is all friendly and polite (the ground staff are achingly sweet), the management has a (slight) air of doing people a favour by letting them stay here. Don't get me wrong - they're all delightful people, but there's something about the rules and procedures and advisories that are handed out while booking Elsewhere that make it feel far snootier than it actually is. For instance, our first enquiry mail was received by a long reply that did welcome us, but also warned us that the property had no modern conveniences and that we should be well aware of the fact. I do appreciate the honesty, and suspect that they've had their fair share of angry guests who ended up here without bothering to research, but it did feel a bit odd nevertheless. 

In any case, once you're sure that you will be okay with whatever the property does and does not offer, you're likely to have warm staff waiting

Overall, I'd rate Elsewhere as one of India's best beach escapes, boutique hotels, and hideaways, simply because of its brilliant location and photo-friendly aesthetic. Everything else is good - not spectacular - and makes for a comfortable and relaxing stay - far more so than any spa I've ever been to. The only possible grouse for us was the fact that we paid a decent amount of money to stay here, and part of us still isn't sure whether it was really worth it.

My only advice? Be sure what you're getting into, especially the lack of mod-cons and the slightly Byzantine booking and advisory procedure. Once you're past of that, its all a sea-breeze. 

Also, the property is great for kids who love the beach, but not as much for the elderly or those with mobility issues that can't manage walks along the rough plantation walkways. 

Some from the phone/instafeed...

And some from the DSLR...