Amansara

We stayed 6 nights in the beginning of October in a Pool Suite. Many people had warned me in advance that this might be too long, but I did not at all think so. We could easily have stayed longer as it was a great resort with so many things to explore nearby.

Also at Amansara the team was wonderful in helping us planning our stay through several email before our arrival. Given that we really wanted holidays and relaxation as well as sightseeing and because we travel with our son, we thought it was very important to find the right balance between seeing the main sights and having plenty of time on our own to enjoy the resort and to explore on our own. Because of this, we limited ourselves to one outing per day, mostly in the morning focusing on seeing the main temples relatively quickly, sometimes combining two outings into one. This worked really well for us, see below when I talk about activities in more detail. We flew Vietnam Airways from Luang Prabang to Siem Reap. The flight left at around 2 o’clock in the afternoon, arriving two hours later. Upon arriving in Siem Reap, I must admit that were were pretty schocked seeing Siem Reap and the countryside around from the air. Huuuuge areas were flooded and we actually though that all the water that we saw was a natural disater that they had forgotten to tell us about on the news in Europe. It turned out that this was just normal during rainy season, but still this is really the most amazing sight I have ever seen from an airplane. We were met at the airport by a representative from Amansara as soon as we entered the airport building and were helped with visa application etc. Outside the old Mercedes was waiting for us and after a 20 minutes drive, passing the main entrance to Angkor Wat, we arrived at Amansara. A number of senior management were there to welcome us and we were taken to our suite where one of the front staff employees gave us information about the resort, our programme (as for Amansara, there was a nice booklet prepared) and everything else. Drinks and freshly made spring rolls were brought to us, and again a bottle of champagne on ice was waiting for us. A good beginning.

I must admit that we – at first – were a bit disappointed about our suite. It is quite a lot smaller than other Aman suites, and the open solution, extra bed and all our luggage made us wish that there had been an option for a larger category accommodation. However, the walled garden with private pool outside was larger than we had though by seein pictures, and we soon found out that we would have a very comfortable stay in spite of the first little disappointment. Bed was again very comfortable (mattress topper!), our son’s bed was next to ours, the shower had fantastic pressure, the bath tub (always filled after we returned to the room in the afternoon), the most wonderful smelling incense, candles, fresh fruit every day etc. We loved it.

As at Amantaka service was very good, warm, personal and friendly. The GM Sally was away during our first days, but someone else from senior management would always make sure to see us during dinnertime to make sure that everything was according to our wishes. The front desk team was really very efficient, always aware of our programme, making sure we got our wake up call when needed, bringing the early morning breakfast before outings, making changes when needed with no problem etc. When Sally came back, she made sure to give us a special greeting (see below) and were always around to think about and suggest things to make our stay even better. Housekeeping was brilliant. They were in our room (at least) three times a day: During our morning outing or breakfast, some time in the afternoon and during dinner: Lighting candles, bringing flowers, making up the beds, running baths, leaving wonderful presents at our beds every night etc. Especially nice with regards to the presents at bed was that they made sure to give also our son some lovely little gifts at night. Earlier I have used to run in and move our present (if appropriate) to his bed to give him the surprise, but at Amansara they took very good care of him as well.

All meals are served in the main restaurant, outside or in our suite. We preferred to eat breakfast and dinner in the restaurant inside as there were some mosquitos around especially at night as it was rainy season. The wonderful roof terrace was unfortunately closed, again because of the season. Same as in Amantaka, there are fixed menus with plenty of choices for breakfast and lunch, and a new dinner menu every night where one can choose between Khmer or international food. The Khmer food was very good, especially the curries and we also joined Molly's gourmet international menus, but since it was getting towards the end of our holidays, we were a bit tired of full restaurant meals and ended up having hamburgers and pizzas some evenings. The cakes and cookies at tea time were to die for and new ones every day. I am sure I gained a kilo just from the cakes… We had one special dinner which was the food highlight of our trip. It was a Khmer BBQ, prepared in the kitchen, served in the main restaurant (no private area for this). Our table was decorated very nicely and the food was just exceptionally good. Roomservice was very quick and good. Nothing to complain about.

I had one massage in the lovely spa and actually regret now that I did not try more treatments as this massage was one of the best ever.

No gym at Amansara. There was a yoga mat in my suite for some exercise on my own, but I must admit that I did not spend much time doing sports during this holiday. Temple walks were enough! The main pool was really lovely and we spent some time there as a variation from our own private pool.

Again th highlights of our trip, were all the activities, and – if possible – they were even more memorable than activities at Amantaka. As mentioned, we had limited ourselves to one outing per day which worked really well. We were assigned one guide for the complete stay, which was great as we got to know each other well meaning that the outings could be even better tailor made to our needs. Our guide was very knowledgeable, spoke really well English and – most importantly for us – was very flexible in terms of tailor making the trips to us and especially our son. Our son quickly decided that the guide was his friend, always wanting to drive the remok alone with him while me and my husband were in another remok. On our first day, we went to see Bayon and one of the less visited temples in the jungle. Beautiful lush and green temples, water in front meaning beautiful mirror pictures and a route avoiding the hordes of tourists. After seeing the two temples, we chose a longer drive back home, through the country side, passing floated fields, cows, children fishing, local markets, little village houses, the less touristy part of the town – seeing everything from the open remok was just great. As being in the middle of everything able to see, smell and hear, but still in our own private area. In the afternoon we went to the old market on our own. An Amansara remok with driver would take us there and wait for us while we did our shopping/looking around and then take us back later. On the 2nd day we had the extremely early morning call to go and see Angkor Wat before and during sunrise. Using the back entrance our guide was able to get us inside the temple while everyone else were still waiting outside. A very special experience. Not as spectacular as being inside Borobodour at sunrise, but close. After seeing Angkor wat, we went to the temple in the jungle (definitely the highlight for us) and then on to Amansaras Khmer house to have a traditional noodle breakfast. Lovely! Back at the hotel, we were relaxing by our private pool when we suddenly got a call that we had to come to the reception in 30 minutes for a surprise. It turned out that Sally was back at Amansara and after greeting us personnaly, she had arranged that a monk came to Amansara to give us a special yasmin flower blessing. Very special. Next day we had the morning off and left Amansara around noon to go to Tonle Sap for the cruise at Amansaras fantastic boat. SeeMust do at Amansara: cruise Tonle Sap lake with Amansaras beautiful boatWe loved this cruise even more than the cruise at Mekong river from Amantaka as there were much more to see and the boat was even better. A must do! After the boat trip we had planned to visit the temples east of Angkor, but we agreed to leave this out as we really had such a great day already. On day 4 we drove 45 minutes to come to the temple of women. Again beautiful and different from the others, so well worth the visit. On the way back we decided to stop at the small informative Landmine museum which we found very interesting and good for telling our son about some of the terrible history of the country. On our last full day, our son had a private cooking class at the Khmer house. We all went to the morning market to shop ingredients together with an Amansara chef, and while me and my husband went shopping in the city and thereafter relaxed in the sun at Amansara, our son went with Amansara personnel to prepare a full lunch for all of us. My husband and I went to the Khmer house at lunchtime and truly enjoyed the tasty food prepared by our own small chef. Having had the lunch, we went on to Spitler school to which we had donated money before leaving on holidays. (http://spitlerschool.org) The school was built as a cooperation between a local tour guide and an American family. We were met by the tour guide and a volunteer telling us the story and answering questions before we were able to hand out school material to pupils that had been bought using some of our donation. A very memorable way to end our holidays – giving something back to such a wonderful people. Our flight back to Hamburg, via Bangkok and London, left Siem Reap in the evening next day. We were able to keep our suite the whole day to enjoy the last sunshine before the long cold winter ahead of us and to pack everything in a relaxed was before leaving our new friends. Sad to say goodbye, but after such a long and successful trip, it is actually good to get home again as well. Daily routines, sports and healthy food here I come!

Beginning of October is actually the worst possible time to go to Siem Reap weather wise. For some reason we were, however, extremely lucky. We had some rain upon arrival and during a small trip to the town one afternoon, plus heaving showers at night, but during the day it was really lovely with blue sky and sunshine.

A very wonderful stay in a beautiful resort with the most memorable excursions ever. Thanks a lot to Sally and her team.