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Old Aug 15, 2007, 12:34 am
  #1  
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Question Safety in lack of Numbers - traveling solo in the Mideast?

over the next 5 months i am travelling around the world by myself. How safe is it for a single young female to travel throughout the middle east through countries such as Egypt, Jordan, Syria, Turkey and possibly Lebanon?
Anyone have any tips or comments to help me decide where to travel or what to see?
Cheers
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Old Aug 15, 2007, 3:12 am
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Originally Posted by Devine3456
over the next 5 months i am travelling around the world by myself. How safe is it for a single young female to travel throughout the middle east through countries such as Egypt, Jordan, Syria, Turkey and possibly Lebanon?
Anyone have any tips or comments to help me decide where to travel or what to see?
Cheers

Can't give you much info on most of those except Jordan and Syria, which I highly, highly recommend. I do think these countries are all very "safe," in the sense that I doubt you will experience any real danger. However, you will probably often deal with petty harassment fairly regularly. You might find it more enjoyable to hook up with travel companions here and there.

In Jordan, you of course have to see the standard tourist spots -- Petra and Wadi Rum, but more than the mass tourist sites I love Jordan's national parks. Favourites are Ajloun forest, which is near to the crusader castle of Ajloun, and which features camping in tents on raised platforms. Most of your fellow campers will be families, and if you do end up there alone, you can probably expect to be invited to join them for a meal. If not, the restaurant food there is excellent. The other one I really like is Dana Nature Reserve -- both up at the top in Dana village or at the nearby camp site, which also has tents, but a different design than at Ajloun, or down at the bottom at Feyan eco-lodge. Feyan is closed in summer because it's too hot, but that place is really wonderful -- no electricity, lit only by candles made by the local bedouin, no towns nearby so the night sky is unreal. A great trip IF YOU ARE QUITE FIT is to drive to Feyan, spend the night, hike up (6 hours) to Dana village, have lunch, hike back down (4 hours). Allow an extra day to let your legs recover, but its a beautiful hike.

Also at Mujib gorge (call the +962 777 422128, or maybe the last number is a 5, sorry, can't read my own scribbling) they have guided hikes through the gorge. Parts include going through water that may be as much as chest deep, so come prepared. Really beautiful, but again, the longest hike (8 hours) is for the very fit only. Also, really cool tent site there by the Dead Sea.

If you're worn out after all that hiking, head to one of the Dead Sea resorts to recover at one of their spas. The Marriott is ok, but tends to have a lot of kids. The Mövenpick has better pools and other facilities, but I suspect the new Kempinski is the best of the three -- which it has better be, since they are charging 250 JD/night (I haven't stayed there)

Finally, there are some other crusader castles like Karak and Shoubak, and the Baptism site near the Dead Sea.

Syria also has ancient sites -- it's a trek out to Palmyra in the desert, but it is really worth it. Everything in old Damascus and old Aleppo are fantastic, especially the Ummayyad mosque, and there are really good beaches at Latakia. Also one of the best golf courses in the middle east.

PM me and I'll give you the name and number of my driver in Amman -- he's a good guy and very helpful, knows everyone and everything, although he is shrewd negotiator, so be prepared to haggle
polonius is offline  
Old Aug 15, 2007, 9:08 am
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Can't speak from personal experience, but I know that the Rough Guides, which I've always found very reliable, routinely have a section in the introductory chapter of every guide on "Police and Trouble," which includes information on crime and sexual harassment.

Some of this information may be on their web site.
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Old Aug 15, 2007, 4:08 pm
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As the OP's question is more to do with general safety issues while traveling rather than security issues please continue the discussion in TravelBuzz!


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Old Aug 15, 2007, 6:38 pm
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I have been to Cairo and Istanbul alone as a single young female.

Istanbul:

Watch out for "friendly" men. I found most were harmless, and in most cases simply wanted to sell me a carpet or two, but did find myself uncomfortable when the subject of nightclubbing cropped up. That being said, I never felt unsafe, just uncomfortable a couple of times, and I adjusted my demeanor by not allowing strangers to engage me in conversation to any depth.

Taxis are safe, but watch out for overcharging. The night rate is something like 50% over the day rate, and unscrupulous drivers will turn it on during the day. Check out something like Lonely Planet for advice on this.

I hired a taxi off the street to drive me around a route I had already planned, and felt safe taking taxis and walking throughout the city after I took the hop on hop off tourist bus to get the lay of the land.

Cairo & Luxor:

I found Cairo a much more aggressive area than Istanbul. Vendors will reach out and grab you to sell you something. In Luxor men walked up to me and asked blatantly whether I liked Egyptian men (wink wink, nudge nudge).

The traffic is horrendous in Cairo, and crossing streets is a contact sport, which is scary since the contact is human versus auto.

I recommend arranging transport to your hotel upon arrival as opposed to jumping into a taxi, and prearranging tours at the hotel, either from a recommended driver or through a tour company. One of my colleagues had a hard time getting back form the Pyramids alone in a taxi off the street. The driver insisted on taking her to some papyrus shop instead of directly back to her hotel.

I arranged tours through the hotel while I was there.
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Old Aug 15, 2007, 8:47 pm
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A lot of solo female travelers post on the thorntree at Lonely Planet. It's a different crowd, mostly backpackers and bargain seekers, but you can get some useful information there. They aren't sophisticated about getting the frequent flyer miles or the best seats or status, but they can help you find that little pension -- or avoid that horrible little place where you have to stack up your suitcases against the door to keep the proprietor from trying to sleep with you. I haven't been to the Middle East, but I've noticed a fair amount of discussion about it there. Especially Turkey. I'm starting to think I may have to visit there myself. They make it sound great!
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Old Aug 15, 2007, 10:15 pm
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Devine3456, welcome to FlyerTalk! We try to avoid whenever possible moving a thread more than once, but it seems the best forum for your concerns is our Women Travelers forum and, with your patience also for adding slightly to the thread title for guidance, let me move it there for more insights. Ocn Vw 1K, Moderator, TravelBuzz
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Old Aug 16, 2007, 5:16 am
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I have travelled around parts of Egypt on my own. On the whole i didnt encounter any issues. There will always be salesmen and hawkers asking you come into their shop or the like, but this is just the way they do business and is different from genuine harassment - which i did not experience at all. I find that some people become very bothered by the hawkers and it puts them off returning, i have always firmly but politely told them that i am not interested and they seem to leave me alone.

I'd advise on dressing appropriately and sticking to well populated places if you are walking about alone. Bear in mind that you'll be travelling in countries where, on the whole, women do not travel alone. I had been told that the locals would assume that lone women were 'loose' or 'looking for business', which may explain some of the attitudes some women have experienced, though i didnt find anything to suggest this. I have been to the markets and shops in Cairo on my own, as well as a few places in Alexandretta and Hurgahada. I just keep my head down, watch where i am walking and dress conservatively. I have covered my hair on occasion, but not always.

It helps to know a few simple phrases (please, thank-you, and 'no thank-you'), your hotel should be able to assist with this. I have found that hawkers leave you alone if you respond to them in their own language as they predominantly look for western tourists.

I would also strongly agree with the others suggestions for hiring a driver. Your hotel will arrange this if you cant get local recommendations. The cost is amazingly cheap, and the driver will escort you the whole day. This is the best way to get to attractions, as they have the local knowledge and are aware of the tourist traps, but equally they can get you to a safe point and let you explore on your own while they wait for you in the car. This is how i tackled the pyramids.

I have actually felt quite safe in the Midle East and Egypt as a whole, and i love to visit there. While pick pocketing and other petty crime does happen (as it does in London, New York or anywhere) the general crime rate is still very low.

I have not been to Jordan though that is definitely on my list. polonius, i may well grab details of your guide when i finally do get to Amman!
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Old Aug 20, 2007, 7:58 am
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Just wondering: does it help to wear a wedding band?
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Old Aug 20, 2007, 10:28 am
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I have done single travel in these regions; in western hotels you will obviously be fine, though no men back to your room, otherwise you might get a reputation........

Respect local culture and be sensitive to your situation and you should be fine.
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Old Aug 21, 2007, 1:37 am
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Devine, When travelling in Syria- women travellers seem to be accorded the same respect as men- the actual punishment to harm a tourist is apparently so great that no one bothers you there. I walked around alone in Lebanon and Jordan with no difficulty or harassment.
Wearing modest clothing ( no shoulders exposed, longer skirts or trousers) will help as well. I carried a headscarf to pop on when in more remote areas. Local women will be godsends in helping 'protect ' you. I rode on a local bus in Turkey and an amorous cyclist kept following the bus and trying to grope me when the bus doors opened at various stops. The local ladies actually beat him with hands and bags to get him away. I ended up eating lunch with them, we still keep in touch 10 years later!!
If you travel alone on a bus- sit as close to the driver as possible and next to a female passenger. Seriously, the local ladies will be your saviours!!
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Old Aug 21, 2007, 1:31 pm
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Originally Posted by Fornebufox
Just wondering: does it help to wear a wedding band?
No. If your husband (real or pretend) is not physically with you while you're out and about, you are just as subject to approaches by men as if you had no wedding ring. (Have you ever traveled in Italy? Same thing!) Actually, I suspect it would be even worse to pretend to be married, because then you get a hassle from men (and women) who are horrified that your husband would let you travel alone.

I just say I'm not married and have no kids, which is the truth, and leave it at that. I get a lot of sorrowful and pitying looks and comments, but at least I don't get berated for abandoning my family to gallivant around by myself.

To the OP, I have traveled solo in all the countries you mention except for Syria. Jordanian men in particular were very friendly and pleasant (except for getting endless solicitations from the horseback ride and donkey cart guys in Petra) and I felt very safe. Beirut, at least, is so cosmopolitan that a woman traveling solo does not get a second glance--same goes for Istanbul and most of the rest of Turkey. I even had a very quiet time wandering around Cairo by myself, with the exception of the Pyramids (same sort of annoying touts as in Petra). I think dressing modestly and being respectful goes a very long way. Leave the tank tops at home, and you will be fine.
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