TRRed

A few thoughts, starting with the fact that there are at least several threads discussing trips to YNP and GTNP. In case you have not found those, search some more.
I respectfully disagree with Pioneer with respect to a side trip to Glacier for your trip: it is a likely a full day to drive there and another to drive back; for an eight day trip, you would lose too much time. Do Glacier and Waterton NPs on a different trip; they would also fill up a full week+.

IIRC, Canyon Lodge is far below both the (Old Faithful?) Snow Lodge and Jackson Lake Lodge, just so your expectations are realistic.
Are you flying and if so, into where? JAC, BZN, CDY, etc.? In July, YNP roads may be packed and slow so that travel times may be much longer than they appear on the map. For an 8 day trip, I think a ratio of 5 YNP/3GTNP is pretty good. I probably would use a portion of one of the GTNP days to go into Jackson instead of using a YNP day to go to Cody.
There are a number of good books on day/short hikes in YNP. There are a lot more such hikes in YNP than GTNP, in my experience.
Around GTNP and Jackson, assuming good water flow, you should have opportunities for float trips (Class I) or rafting trips (Class II+). I would recommend looking into these.
Enjoy!

ludocdoc

I did 11 days in the Tetons/YNP and felt satisfied, but have always dreamed of going back. I think it was 2 nights/2.5 days in Jackson, the rest working through Yellowstone. I had one day booked as a "swing day" for weather, etc -- I spent it in a leather chair on an interior balcony in the Old Faithful Lodge writing postcards while it rained. Very nice.

A few details. Get a map of yellowstone's roads. You'll see it's sort of a square sitting on a hexagram -- each "corner" is a major site. Figure about 30 minutes to drive each leg - it took me 20-30 on average, and thats in late September. It will take you longer. Add time for the inevitable stops to pull over and look at wildlife. The point is: if you're staying at Canyon, it's a 1.5 hour drive to Old Faithful, and a 1 hour drive to Mammoth.

I ate the bison burger at the Irma Hotel, with the giant famous cherry wood bar (was it really donated by Queen Victoria?). It was a bit gamey. In my 11 days, it was worth it (I actually drove the Bear Tooth highway to Red Lodge, spent the night, and swung through Cody on the way back in) Unless you're really, really into the rodeo, trade that for another whole day in the park. The views of a herd of bison on the northeast entry (my exit) road are one of the things that I pray I see next time I'm there.

Yellowstone is a big place. Depending on what you like, each polygon corner has something interesting, and each might take a day. Maybe you'll breeze the paint pots or something. Don't just sit at Old faithful. Take the walk north through the geyser basin to the great pools.

ranshe

Hoping to be visiting early September.
Any recommendations for hotels, restaurants, local attractions, kids attractions other than, of course, Yellowstone park?

Thanks,

flyingcat2k

How long are you planning on staying? Where are you flying in and out of? How far from the park are you willing to go?

The Montana side has more appeal to me but I'm from Montana so I'm biased. Red Lodge is a very nice town that has a nice main street with shops and restaurants. I get breadsticks at the City Bakery and love Bogart's Pizza. You can buy a short term permit for fishing in Wyoming or Montana and go fishing in some of the mountain lakes outside the park. West Yellowstone is nice as well but I haven't been there in some time. Bozeman is 90 miles away and has the Museum of the Rockies with the state's paleontology lab there.

ranshe

Thanks for the leading questions - I haven't supplied enough info.
Current plan is fly in/out SLC.
Duration is 9 days, but that includes all of the transportation (SAN-SLC-SAN, driving around, etc).
Ideally I wouldn't want to be too far from the park, as this is the main reason for the trip.

Clientelle is 4.5 & 2.5 kids...

TimF1975

I'm heading there next week -- my first time. I'm not sure what it's like in September but trying to get a hotel reservation in June was impossible and I was booking last October. Luckily I got a campground (which was already starting to fill up last October) so we'll be sleeping under the stars...

TRRed

Early Sept. can be a good time to go, as many of the families with kids will have left for the start of school. If I were you, I would expect and plan for the drive to and from SLC to take about a day. If your flight is too late to make it all the way, you should be able to find reasonably decent motels around Green River or Rock Springs, WY (possibly Little America?). Near Grand Teton (maybe about 10 minutes from Moran Junction?) is Togwotee lodge, which I would choose over almost all of the lodging options in Grand Teton NP (excluding Jenny Lake and Jackson Lake Lodges). There is a good ranger station/museum in Grand Teton. Both Yellowstone and Grand Teton nature centers should have books on easy day hikes or walks with kids and probably have some ranger led programs; check the websites.

In Yellowstone, Old Faithful Inn or Lodge should be prime targets for 2-3 nights. Old Faithful area is fairly centrally located, so in low traffic periods you could really cover the park via daytrips, albeit some days you would spend several hours in the car.

One night in Jackson (maybe on your way back) could be fun, to see an old west type town (think Gunsmoke with a town square). I don't know when the evening "gunfights" stop for the fall.

I have not been terribly impressed with Idaho Springs (hold the tomatoes).

Prepare for all sorts of weather. At Old Faithful Inn, you may hear the story of people there being snowed in August many years ago. I have seen snow falling in the park on Memorial Day.

Search and you should find a number of threads on this area.

TimF1975

As I mentioned, I'm heading there next week. We'll be driving in on Wednesday morning from Grand Teton. We're staying three nights at the Canyon Campground. What are the "must see" places? I figure we'll go to see Old Faithful first as it's sort of on the way and looks to be pretty far from where we're staying.

What are the best hikes 2-4 miles in range? Will do at least one of these per day.

What are the best places to eat in the park?

TRRed

Tim,

As I mentioned above, the nature centers in Yellowstone have a pamphlet with called Easy Day Hikes or similar, which indicate distance and terrain. The centers should also show areas that may be closed due to bear problems, fires, etc. Two walks that come to mind are Lone Star (near Old Faithful area) and Cascade Lake (IIRC) near Canyon.

Check out the day hike information on this page: http://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/hiking.htm

FlyForFun

Tim:

When you go to Old Faithful, please try to see more of the geysers than just Old Faithful. At the Old Faithful Visitors Center, the rangers post geyser predictions for: Grand Geyser, Castle Geyser, Daisy Geyser, Riverside Geyser, and Great Fountain Geyser (located eight miles away between Midway Geyser Basin and Old Faithful).

If you have a walkie-talkie be sure to take it with you or else purchase an inexpensive set before you go. A group of geyser gazers who belong to GOSA (Geyser Observation and Study Association) will broadcast possible eruption activities and announce if a particular geyser is close to eruption. Ask anyone you see at the park who is carrying a radio what frequency GOSA is using or ask at the Visitors Center.

I started writing and remembered that I wrote a guide for some friends who were travelling to Yellowstone. A copy follows. Please let me know if you have any questions. As you may be able to tell, I am a huge fan of Yellowstone and really want people to enjoy and appreciate the unique aspects of this magical place.

The reason that I reference so many public toilets is that I HATE using non-flush toilets and I am quite proud of my knowledge of flush toilets in Yellowstone. In fact when I was on Jeopardy! in 2002, my topic of discussion with Alex was the location of flush toilets at Yellowstone. He was impressed. BTW - I did use a non-flush toilet last week at Denali National Park.

HIGHLIGHTS OF YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK


Moose Falls

Less than two miles after you enter YNP from the South Entrance, you will arrive at Moose Falls. Moose Falls is not very well marked. Just after you pass a small stone bridge over Crawfish Creek, you will see a very small parking area (room for four or five cars parked parallel) on the right side of the road. You will also see signs advising you to drive slowly because of pedestrians and you will see a crosswalk. Park in the small lot and take the path for a two to three minute walk. The path forks with the right trail going to an overlook of the brink of the falls and the trail to the left going to a group of rocks that takes you even closer to the falls. This excursion should take ten to fifteen minutes and provides a great opportunity to stretch your legs and smell the incredible pine trees.

Lewis Canyon

On the right side of the road, there are several turn-outs where you can stop to view Lewis Canyon.

Lewis Falls

Lewis Falls are not very well sign-posted either; however, you can see the falls from the road so they are not easy to miss. Parking is available on either side of the road. The best view of the falls is from the end of the bridge (you have to walk all the way to the end opposite from the falls). The Falls are 29 feet or 9 meters. This brief stop should take five to ten minutes.

Grant Village Area

Grant Village is worth the slight detour because here you will encounter the first flush toilets in YNP. Toilets are available at the gas station, both of the Yellowstone Stores, Grant Village Visitors Center, and the Grant Village Hotel Registration building.

Grant Village has two restaurants: the Grant Village Dining Room (reservations are required for dinner) and the GV Lake House Restaurant featuring steaks and Italian food. I have not dined at either but the Lake House has a beautiful setting perched on Lake Yellowstone. The sun sets around 9:45 in June, July, and August if you want to watch the sun set while dining here.

The GV Visitor Center has an interesting film on the fire of 1988. The GV Amphitheater has ranger programs every evening; the Yellowstone newspaper that you receive at the South Entrance has a listing of programs and activities for each VC.

West Thumb Geyser Basin

If you can stop here early in the day, you will be able to see quite a lot of elk; they usually disappear from here by 9:30 AM. Be sure to dress in layers if you come early in the morning (it is really cold along the lakeshore). West Thumb does not have any flush toilets so you may want to detour to Grant Village before or after your visit. Toilets are available but they are the non-flush variety. The West Thumb Ranger Station was built in 1925 and has historical significance. The views of Lake Yellowstone and the mountains are superb from West Thumb.

Highlights of the boardwalk are Abyss Pool, Black Pool, Fishing Cone (in early summer and late spring, this geyser is completely underwater and not easy to see; in the early fall, it is usually in very shallow water), Lakeshore Geyser (you can make amusing puns about Chicago men when viewing this one), pools, geysers, springs, and mud pots. The distance covered in this hike is 3/8 mile.

Elk abound early and late in the day. If you see a lot of elk in July, then you know this is an Elke Sommer (another of our stupid puns). We saw one buffalo (bison) in May 2000.

Be sure to extend your west thumb in all photos. At Black Pool, you can sometimes photograph your reflections in the clouds of vapor hovering over the pool.

Isa Lake and Continental Divide (on the Loop Road between Grant Village and Old Faithful Area). Aside from being a pretty little lake with water lilies, Isa Lake sits on the Continental Divide and during spring runoff, its waters drain into the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans at the same time and backwards. Isa Lake is at the Continental Divide turn-out just past Craig Pass.

We saw a bear very near this area around sunset one evening in September. He was standing on the side of the road; this was my second bear sighting in almost twenty trips over the last twelve years.

Kepler Cascades and Lone Star Geyser

The Kepler Cascades are definitely worth a stop. The overlook provides great views of the 125 foot cascades and the canyon. If you see any little rodents (like chipmunks) do not feed them or you will be fined if caught.

The trail to Lone Star Geyser (LSG) is just off the parking area. A log book is supposed to be maintained at the trail entrance to let you know when Lone Star Geyser last erupted. LSG erupts only every three hours and involves a five-mile round hike (if you have bicycles, you can bike to the geyser), so if your time is limited you may want to skip this hike. I have hiked to LSG two times and have seen one eruption. The eruption was well-worth the hike. The mosquitoes can be quite horrific along the trail since it runs next to a stream.

Old Faithful Area

The Old Faithful Area (OFA) is so much more than Old Faithful. So many people just watch Old Faithful erupt and then they leave. At the very least, you must take the trail to Morning Glory Pool and try to see at least one of these geysers erupt: Grand (the ultimate geyser but it can involve a five hour wait), Castle (usually predictable and erupts about every twelve hours, erupts for twenty minutes followed by a steam phase of another twenty minutes, and easy to walk to), Bee Hive (when active only erupts two times a day; frequently inactive for five day periods or more), Riverside (extremely predictable, a gorgeous setting, and erupts every six hours or so), and/or Daisy (erupts every ninety minutes or so, long walk, and quite predictable).

We have been incredibly fortunate to have seen eruptions of Giant Geyser and Giantess Geyser over the last several years but Giant seems to have slipped back to a dormant state.

Old Faithful Visitors Center

When you arrive at the OFA, park as close to the VC as possible. The rangers post predictions for Old Faithful, Castle, Daisy, Grand, and Great Fountain (more about it later) on the bulletin board. The OF VC shows a film about geysers; we actually watched it during a brief thunderstorm one summer when we left our rain gear in the car. The flush toilets (do not even try to go just after Old Faithful erupts) are near the VC and well sign-posted.

Old Faithful Inn

The Old Faithful Inn deserves a tour. It is being renovated so portions may be closed. We stayed at the Inn twelve years ago and last year; rooms are considerably cheaper if you are willing to share a bathroom. On the second floor, tucked in a corner are genuine bathrooms with big old-fashioned tubs; there are also shower facilities in the restrooms; you can use these facilities free of charge if you have your own towel. In the evening, the balcony is a great place to sip a latte or a cocktail and watch the geysers. The Old Faithful Inn Dining Room requires reservations for dinner. The Inn also has the Geyser Grill and the Pony Express Snack Shop.

Old Faithful Snow Lodge

The Old Faithful Snow Lodge has been completely remodeled and is a great place to stay; however, it can be quite expensive. We stayed at the Old Faithful Snow Lodge in one of the cabins; the cabins are the best. The restrooms at OFSL near the lounge are the fanciest I have ever seen in YNP. The Snow Lodge has a dining room (no reservations required) with food similar to but cheaper than the Old Faithful Dining Room. We ate at the old one and had delicious food (chicken with pasta and artichokes, freshly-baked bread, wine, and great salad with homemade dressing).


Old Faithful Lodge

The Old Faithful Lodge cabins are my favorite place to stay; they are cheap (compared to other lodging in the park) and very basic. The budget cabin has two beds, a table, two chairs, and a sink. There is a restroom cabin very near with six flush toilets; separate facilities for each gender. The showers are located in the restroom cabin (if you shower before 6:00 AM you can be assured of privacy on your walk to and from the Lodge). The frontier cabin has two beds, a table, two chairs, a sink, a toilet, and a shower stall. The Lodge has a decent cafeteria, a stand to buy latte, a shop with coffee and muffins, and an ice cream/frozen yogurt shop.

Bee Hive Geyser

Ask one of the rangers at the OFVC if Bee Hive is active (the rangers will be impressed with your question and think you are a true geyser fan). If Bee Hive is active, they will give you a prediction. Bee Hive has an "indicator" (a small geyser next to Bee Hive that erupts approximately fifteen minutes before Bee Hive erupts). If a ranger starts yelling that Bee Hive will erupt, run to Bee Hive because eruptions are twice a day if you are lucky and are quite glorious. Plume Geyser is near and erupts every twenty minutes or so. The Lion Group (Lion, Lioness, Cub, and Little Cub) is also close; when Lion erupts it sounds like a lion roaring.

Castle Geyser

If Castle is within thirty minutes of erupting, move your car to the gas station parking lot (take the exit and turn right when you see a little sign with a gas pump). The gas station has flush toilets (they are at the back of the building; these are always open and come in extremely handy when waiting for Grand to erupt). You can then walk five minutes or so to Castle Geyser. Castle Geyser is very predictable except that every once in a while, it skips an eruption and then cannot be predicted until two cycles take place. Castle erupts with a water phase for about twenty minutes and is followed by a steam phase for another twenty to thirty minutes.

Grand Geyser

Grand Geyser is my favorite geyser in the OFA. Grand is one of the best examples of a fountain geyser. It is also one of the most difficult to see. I have waited five hours and it is worth the wait. While waiting, you can watch the marmots frolic; there was an albino marmot a few years ago. Coyotes, elk, and moose have also been spotted.

Grand erupts every six to twelve hours and can usually be predicted within a four hour time frame. (last summer it was erupting around every seven and one-half hours) It sometimes erupts earlier than expected and sometimes much later but it will eventually erupt; just hope that daylight remains. When you first arrive at Grand Geyser (Grand is the rocky looking pool not one of the geyserite formations), look at the pool of water. If there is no water, then Grand has erupted earlier than expected. If the pool is full of water (watch the ledge of rocks) and waves are skimming the surface, take a seat and wait. Turban Geyser is next to Grand. Every fifteen to twenty minutes, Turban erupts. If Grand starts to drain during Turban's eruption, then Grand will not erupt. If the water level stays high, then Grand will erupt. If Turban erupts and Grand does not erupt, then you have fifteen to twenty minutes to run to the flush toilet at the gas station, go to the Yellowstone Store for provisions, or look at other geysers (Sawmill is very near) in the area. Turban may erupt for a several seconds or up to a minute and then Grand can erupt; focus on the pool and you will be able to see a white ball of water form in the center. This white ball will erupt into a column of water and steam. Grand may have more than one series of bursts and can have up to four or even five; do not count on more than one series or you will set yourself up for disappointment; an eruption with only one series is still spectacular. Once you see Grand Geyser, you will never be satisfied with Old Faithful.

Many "geyser experts" study Grand for days. You will see them with their notebooks, computers, cell phones, and walkie talkies. They are better at predicting than anyone else; some of them also get irritated when you ask them questions. They take sadistic pleasure at watching innocent people get excited when Turban erupts and the innocents mistake Turban for Grand. If you ask intelligent questions and appear to be genuinely interested, they will provide a huge amount of information and may recruit you to join GOSA (Geyser Observation and Studying Association).

Warning - there is almost no shade at Grand. You can easily fry on a sunny day from 10:30 or so to 5:00. Take an umbrella for shade if you decide to wait for hours for Grand's eruption. Early morning eruptions are often obscured by mist and the boardwalk can become covered with ice (even in July). The new boardwalks can also create static electricity during dry periods.

Riverside Geyser

Riverside is such a pleasure to watch, especially on a sunny afternoon when rainbows appear in the geyser vapor. Riverside erupts every six hours or so. It will usually erupt right on schedule, twenty minutes before the predicted time, or twenty minutes after. About an hour before Riverside erupts, water will overflow from the geyserite cone. If no water is flowing, you have at least an hour to wait. Continue to Morning Glory Pool and beyond on the trail (not paved or boardwalk) to some of the pools and geysers that most people miss. If water is flowing, sit in the shade and wait, you will not be disappointed. Riverside Geyser often has elk or bison on the side of the river not accessible to people. When Riverside erupts, it goes for at least twenty minutes. Riverside is great to view from a variety of angles. One of the best views is from the bridge on the trail to Morning Glory Pool. There is a picnic table just past Riverside and before Morning Glory Pool; this makes a great spot to eat after watching Riverside or if Riverside is due to erupt. There is very little shade around Riverside so it can get really hot during the middle of the day.

Daisy Geyser

Daisy is quite predictable and erupts about every ninety minutes. The eruption lasts about five minutes. If you are returning from Riverside or Morning Glory Pool and Daisy is about to erupt, be sure to take the brief detour to Daisy. When Daisy is almost finished, she makes a sound like a train chugging down the track. Comet and Splendid are also in this area. Every once in a while, Splendid will erupt rather than Daisy. It is a rare treat to see Splendid erupt. Continue on the trail past Daisy and visit Punchbowl Spring; it is worth the detour.

Morning Glory Pool

Morning Glory Pool provides a real treat for those who hike all the way to the end of the paved trail. The colors of the pool are amazing. In the morning, the steam may obliterate your view, but during the heat of the day, the view is clear and glorious.

Other OFA Activities

There are many minor geysers, pools, and springs in this area. When you walk past Wave Pool be sure to wave (it is a tradition), admire your beauty in Beauty Pool and sing the Tubes song "She's a Beauty" while passing by, hike to Observation Point and watch Old Faithful erupt (you may see buffalo blocking the trail) and stop by Solitary Geyser on the way down (it gets so lonely), sit and wait for Giant Geyser to erupt (you may wait for months or years; it has erupted several times in the past year), enjoy Rocket and Grotto, and make up names for all the small geysers that are unmarked.


Eating in OFA

Reservations are required only at the Old Faithful Inn Dining Room; dinner is expensive but the food is decent. Dinner and lunch are also available at the Old Faithful Lodge, the Snow Lodge, the Yellowstone Stores, and snack places at Old Faithful Inn. At the Old Faithful Lodge and Old Faithful Inn, you can sometimes get the best peach frozen yogurt on earth. Ice cream is available at these places and also the Yellowstone Stores; the goo goo cluster and also moose tracks flavors of ice cream are wonderful. The Old Faithful Lodge Cafeteria is a good place to eat hot, nutritious, and yummy meals; you can buy wine and beer in the cafeteria. The pasta is good; salads are available; the view of Old Faithful is also great. You can purchase beer, wine, and liquor at any of the Yellowstone Stores. There is only one picnic table in the actual geyser area; it is located in the sun just past Riverside Geyser on the way to Morning Glory Pool near the non-flush toilet. There is another picnic area by the main parking lots closer to the Lodge but it has little ambiance.

Toilets in OFA

Flush toilets are available at: the gas station as described above, the Yellowstone Stores, the Old Faithful Inn, the Old Faithful Snow Lodge, the Old Faithful Lodge, the cabin area of the Old Faithful Lodge, and the VC.

Other Geyser Basins

Black Sand Basin

The Black Sand Geyser Basin is just across the road from the Old Faithful Area. You can walk from Morning Glory Pool or drive. Black Sand Basin has pretty pools and minor geysers. A trek around the loop trail can take twenty to thirty minutes.

Biscuit Basin

Please do not waste a lot of time looking for the biscuits; they were destroyed during an earthquake in 1959 when Sapphire Pool exploded and blew away the biscuits. Biscuit Geyser Basin has Sapphire Pool, Jewel Geyser, Avoca Spring, and Mustard Geyser (more French’s than Grey Poupon), pretty pools, and minor geysers. The trail head to Mystic Falls is at the far end of the loop (away from the road). The Mystic Falls trail takes about an hour and goes through forests and along the river. If you want a brief experience of off-boardwalk hiking that is not too strenuous or time-consuming, then hike to Mystic Falls. You can extend your hike and travel up the hill (really a small mountain) and get an incredible view of Old Faithful and the Upper Geyser Basin (or so I've heard).

Fairy Falls

The trail head to Fairy Falls has a small parking lot. The distance to Fairy Falls is 2.7 miles or 5.4 miles round trip; the trail is fairly level and quite wide. The first mile is an old road; the views of Grand Prismatic Spring are absolutely fabulous. The colors of the pool are reflected in a corona of mist that hovers around the pool. Even if you do not walk all the way to Fairy Falls, try to walk for the first ten minutes of the trail just to experience this sight; once you get across from Grand Prismatic Spring, climb up the hillside for an amazing view. If you do continue to Fairy Falls, you will be rewarded with a very special waterfall. The falls drop from a hillside so you are at the bottom of the falls when you see them. The pool at the bottom of the falls is very refreshing. If you want to continue to Imperial Geyser, you can hike for another half mile or so. You can also see the steam from Imperial Geyser while standing at Fairy Falls.

Midway Geyser Basin

Midway Geyser Basin has the largest geyser in the world; unfortunately it has not erupted in years. When you stand in front of Excelsior Geyser just try to imagine what it was like when it did erupt. Midway also has some of the most beautiful pools in YNP. The loop trail takes twenty to thirty minutes.

Fountain Lake Drive

This side road is not to be missed. You will see Great Fountain Geyser, White Dome Geyser, Pink Cone, Steady Geyser, and a whole lot more. Great Fountain Geyser is another of my absolute favorites. The road opens by Memorial Day; it is closed until then because of bear activity.

Great Fountain Geyser

If you find out from the rangers at the Old Faithful Visitors Center that Great Fountain Geyser is predicted to erupt, haul yourselves down to Fountain Lake Drive as fast as you can make the eight mile journey. If you can drive and you approach Great Fountain Geyser and a lot of people are standing around, park (park illegally if you must, the rangers do not ticket during eruptions), and join them. Great Fountain Geyser erupts every eleven hours or so. An hour before its eruption, "overflow" occurs. Water will be flowing down the minor terraces around the pool. Listen and if you hear the trickling sound of water, then you can be certain that the overflow is happening. If you arrive and there is no overflow, then you have at least an hour to do something else either in the Fountain Lake Drive area or at Fountain Paint Pots across the road. About fifteen to twenty minutes before Great Fountain erupts, the pool will bubble vigorously. Do not even think of leaving if this is occurring. When the bubbles encircle the pool completely and a small burst of at least one meter occurs, you are nine minutes away or less from the eruption. Great Fountain will have at least two maybe three series of major bursts during its eruption. We have seen five bursts. Smarty pants people will brag about "super bursts" and how they hope to experience them, but they are really rare. Believe me, the regular bursts are more than enough to make you forget about Old Faithful. Great Fountain will erupt for twenty minutes to almost an hour. If you do not see any other geyser, try to see Great Fountain. After Grand, Great Fountain is my favorite. Lynn, a member of GOSA and a volunteer at the park will probably be at Great Fountain Geyser. She knows more about Great Fountain than anyone. If Lynn is waiting, ask her for her prediction. She is amazing.

White Dome

White Dome goes off every twenty or thirty minutes. You can see it really well while waiting for Great Fountain to erupt. Do not even think of leaving during Great Fountain's eruption to watch White Dome.

Pink Cone

Pink Cone only erupts once or twice a day. You will probably not even notice it unless it is erupting. Look for the large pink geyser cone that the road almost cuts across. If you do see it erupt, you are quite fortunate.

Other Firehole Lake Drive Activities

There is a trail (not very well marked and no boardwalk) just past the parking area for Great Fountain Geyser; you have to go past the bushes and then the trail becomes more visible. The trail leads to several small geysers and is worth the trip if you are still waiting for Great Fountain to erupt.

Towards the end of Firehole Lake Drive are two parking areas. Park at one of these and take the boardwalk to view the smaller geysers (Steady Geyser so you can make more jokes and puns), pools, and fumaroles.

Fountain Paint Pots

The parking area is always crowded. If you can visit late in the day or early in the morning, you can park fairly easily and avoid the crowds. Highlights of this area are: Fountain Geyser (erupts two to three times a day and predictions are not posted; if the pool is really full of water, then Fountain is close to eruption), Leather Pool, the Fountain Paint Pots, and Clepsydra Geyser. Clepsydra erupts on an almost non-stop basis and may stop briefly when Fountain erupts. Silex Spring has been known to morph into a geyser at times; if you happen to see an eruption, you are seeing something very rare.

Firehole Canyon Drive

This drive takes about twenty minutes and can be very frustrating because the road is crowded, there are few places to stop, and even fewer places to park. One of the park's few swimming areas is at the end of the drive for the extremely adventurous.

Madison Junction

The first flush toilets past the OFA are at the Madison Picnic Area. The road to West Yellowstone has one really great attraction. The buffalo nursery is located here. The female buffalo and their babies tend to congregate at the "Wildlife Exhibit" parking area early in the morning and late in the day. You may get to see the mothers teaching the babies to cross the river, roll in the dirt, or block traffic. Buffalo babysit for each other so you may see a cow with several babies; they do not all belong to her.


West Yellowstone

If you ever travel to Yellowstone and can not get reservations in YNP, you can easily get a hotel room (with cable, air conditioning, and pool) at West Yellowstone. West Yellowstone is for quasi-adventurers; there is an omnimax theater, a grizzly bear exhibit (with real bears), McDonalds, Burger King, Subway, grocery stores, and cheaper gas.

Unnamed Geyser Basin

Just past Madison Junction is a very small geyser basin; if you can park, the short walk on the boardwalk should not take more than five to ten minutes.

Gibbon Falls

If you ever have a near collision at Yellowstone, it will be while trying to park or leave the small parking area for Gibbon Falls. If you can park safely, do stop to see the falls, but do not feed the wildlife.

We have also designated the Gibbon Falls picnic area as the worst place in YNP to have a picnic; there is no grass, no shade, and no view of the falls. The picnic area is a big gravel parking lot with scattered unshaded tables and portable (non-flush) toilets. It has since been closed and converted into a construction area.

Beryl Spring

It is also difficult to park at Beryl Spring. The brief view from the road is sufficient but not satisfying. Stop if you can for just a few minutes.

Chocolate Pots

Nobody ever stops to look at the Chocolate Pots. They are not marked and are on none of the maps. We always stop because the chocolate pots are a rare treat. There are three visible chocolate pots; two are on the same side of the river as the road; another is very visible across the river. The river actually resembles watery coffee or hot chocolate. The chocolate pots are on the west side of the road just after the Gibbon Meadows picnic area. Look for a brick wall and a turnout. Park at the turnout and look across the river. We believe that the Chocolate Pots bring good fortune to those who admire them. We have been blessed with upgrades and bumps after stopping to pay homage to them.

Monument Geyser

Whatever you do - please do not climb all the way to the top of the hill to see Monument Geyser. The trail starts out OK but soon becomes a very steep path; the climb is approximately ten stories in an office building and steep and rocky. If you make it to the top, you will be very disappointed because most of the geyser activity is no longer active. The trip down is almost as bad as the trip up. The path is rocky and steep. I did this hike many years ago when I was in better shape and I barely survived. I truly think the only way that I made it down without hurting myself was because I told God that I would give up my first class upgrade on the flight home if I could just make it safely down the mountain. God was in a generous mood because I made it down, my mother made it down (she only climbed up part of the way before giving up), and we both kept our upgrades.

Artist Paint Pots

Most people who stop at the tiny parking area for the Artist Paint Pots Trail are parking to look at the elk at Elk Park (we have never understood how the elk know this is their park but they do). There is a new parking lot and trail to the Artist Paint Pots and the Amazonian Mud Pots; it is worth the twenty minutes it will take. The trail goes about one half of a mile into the forest. We usually see elk on the trail. When the trail forks, take the trail to the right that goes uphill. Trust me, this end of the trail is less steep and easier to climb. At the top of the hill, you will see the newly-named Amazonian Mud Pots (named within the last six years). These are the best mud pots in YNP. I get hypnotized by them and watch them play for fifteen to twenty minutes. Be careful, they do splatter people. The view from the Amazonian Mud Pots of the Artist Paint Pots is the best way to enjoy them.

Norris Geyser Basin

Norris Geyser Basin has no flush toilets. Continue on the Loop Road just past the Norris Junction. You will cross a bridge and see a sign for Norris Campground and the Ranger Museum. Turn right into the campground and continue to the Ranger Museum. Voila! a lovely two stall (ADA approved) flush toilet restroom is just to the left of the Ranger Museum.

On May 2, 2000 Steamboat Geyser erupted for the first time since 1991. Unfortunately no one saw the eruption except for two illegally parked campers; the rangers are still trying to find them. It erupted again in 2001, 2002, and 2003. No eruption has been posted since 2004, so you could get lucky.

A thorough tour of Norris Geyser Basin will take about two hours if you take all the main trails. Your visit could last longer if you try to see Echinus erupt and it does not cooperate. Highlights include: Echinus Geyser(unfortunately Echinus has become very erratic and rarely erupts), Pork Chop Geyser, Congress Pool (inactive, full of hot air, and also full of stuff that looks like B. S.; in other words, most appropriately named), the Porcelain Basin, and lots of other really interesting geysers, pools, and algae beds.

Echinus Geyser was extremely predictable and regular until 1999. It used to erupt every 45 minutes or so. If you get to Echinus Geyser (just past Steamboat) and the pool is filling up, Echinus may erupt. With its quirky new behavior, it often goes through its phases and then empties instead of erupting. Echinus slowly fills with water until almost all of the rocks in the pool are covered. You will see bubbling near the edge closest to the benches. When the bubbling shifts to the side farthest from the benches, then Echinus may erupt. The best viewing place is on one of the benches at the top of the viewing platform. From here, you can look straight into Echinus. When you see a big white ball form below the surface, get your camera ready. Echinus may erupt for a minute or for ten. The rangers do post prediction times if Echinus is behaving in a predictable manner.

In the summer of 2003 the back basin trail was closed due to new geothermal activity; a portion re-opened in the fall; part is still closed this summer. Yellowstone is always changing and is unpredictable. Last year, new boardwalks were installed and new areas have developed.

Norris Junction

At Norris Junction you can either continue to Mammoth Hot Springs or take the Inner Loop Road to Canyon. Many people will disagree but if time is limited, skip Mammoth and head to Canyon. The road to Mammoth does not have many sights to see. The road to Canyon is faster, less crowded, usually has wildlife viewing, and has one detour worth taking. It also has lots of rangers issuing tickets for speeding.

Virginia Cascades

The one-way road to Virginia Cascade is not open very often (we have only seen it open three times). If it is open, take the fifteen minute detour and view Virginia Cascades. In July the road was open and we saw a huge bull elk toward the end of the road.

Wildlife Viewing

There are usually elk, moose, buffalo, or deer to see on the road to Canyon. However, there have been times when we saw nothing.

Mammoth Hot Springs

If you do decide to go to Mammoth then continue north on the Loop Road past Norris. The YNP Headquarters are at Mammoth Hot Springs. The VC has a good museum on the history of YNP. The Mammoth Hotel has decent restaurants. The geo-thermal formations are very different from those in the southern part of YNP. There are almost always elk on the lawn of the Hotel and everywhere in the Mammoth area. I am sorry to be so unenthusiastic, but Mammoth is my least favorite part of the Park. I know other people who just love it. You may want to take the on-line tour on Yellowstone's website and decide for yourself just how much time you want to spend in Mammoth. Over the past year and one-half, some of the terraces at Mammoth have "died" and are drying out and losing their colors.

Road from Mammoth to Tower

The road from Mammoth to Tower is open year-round to vehicles, the only road in YNP with this distinction. Highlights of the sights along the road include: Undine Falls (worth the five to ten minute stop to view the falls), Blacktail Plateau Road (we have taken this gravel road a few time in the hopes of seeing wild life but have never seen anything), Wraith Falls (a thirty to forty-five minute hike to a "nice" but not overly spectacular waterfall; Undine Falls is really better and much easier to get to), the wildflowers, petrified tree (longest quarter mile on earth), calcite springs overlook (fascinating formations that look like stone picket fences), and Roosevelt (the first flush toilets after Mammoth. At Roosevelt, you can take a stagecoach ride or a trail ride; you can book in advance or at any of the hotels or lodges. We did the stagecoach ride (the only people who did that day in June) and became surrogate parents to the college-aged cowboys who were lonesome and wanted advice on their girlfriends and world travel. The highlight of the ride was when the cutest one patted my thigh (twice) and explained the differences between bison and buffalo.

Tower Fall

For some strange reason, Tower Fall is always crowded (except at 8:00 AM) and the crowd tends to be comprised of rude, uncouth, and semi-trashy people. If you do go, try to go really early in the day. There are flush toilets, water fountains, fat-free vanilla frozen yogurt, food, and other provisions. The walk to the overlook takes less than five minutes. If you want to continue, you can hike to the base of the fall. The hike down is very winding and the hike up is steep; however, I was able to complete the hike even with severe anemia. Be cautious on this trail; I have seen more children take a tumble and hurt themselves while descending.

Road from Tower to Canyon (Dunraven Pass)

The road from Tower to Canyon via Dunraven Pass is the last of the Loop Road to open (June 15) and the first to close. There is a side road to the top of Mount Washburn that is interesting. You get great views after travelling twenty minutes on a gravel road filled with hair-pin curves. I have been told that if you hike for about two hours up the Mount Washburn trail, you may see mountain goats or sheep. I have never seen any wildlife on this section of the road but it is supposed to be a good place to spot grizzly bears. The road was closed in 2004 for construction and did not re-open in 2005; check the road closure data to be certain before your trip.

Canyon

If possible visit the Canyon trails and overlooks early in the morning (extremely cold) or in the evening. The crowds will be gone and the sun will not be beating down on you.

Canyon has a very high concentration of flush toilets; they are readily available at many of the parking areas, at the VC, the Yellowstone Store, the gas station, the Lodge Check-In area, and the restaurants. I made my one and only dinner reservation for the Canyon Dining Room and had a wonderful dining experience with great food and wine; however, we made our reservation late and could not dine until after nine. The cafeteria is not as good as the Old Faithful Cafeteria. The Deli/Snack Shop has roasted chickens and fresh fruit if you are looking for a healthy lunch. The Fudge Shop at the Yellowstone Store has great fudge. One item you must get at the Yellowstone Store is the cinnamon bread (freshly baked by a local bakery); you can get this bread at most of the Yellowstone Stores. Another unique item you can get at the Yellowstone Stores is "Yellowstone" marked soft drinks; I know diet coke has this distinction. In late September 2003, the Yellowstone store at Canyon was the only place that we were able to purchase diet coke; the Old Faithful stores had run out; this experience was highly unusual but a tad irritating since I am addicted to diet coke (my only vice).

Canyon also has stables with horseback riding available. You can reserve in advance or at any of the hotels or lodges.

North Rim

The North Rim Drive starts just past the Canyon VC and campground. Continue down this road and stop at every stop.

Inspiration Point

First you will come to Inspiration Point where you walk down a platform to fantastic views of the canyon.

Grand View

Next comes Grand View where you have an amazing view of the Lower Falls. There is a trail down the canyon at this overlook but wait to hike down at Red Rocks or at Lookout Point; I actually did this hike in the snow in September 1992.

Red Rocks Trail

At the next stop you can take the Red Rocks Trail; the Red Rocks trail takes you to the brink of the falls. The distance is 3/8 of a mile each way; there are some steps and a boardwalk. The hike down is easy; the hike up is not too bad. The views are worth the hike.

Lookout Point

Lookout Point has a trail that is easier to climb and even better views than Red Rocks. You get views of both the Upper Falls and Lower Falls; this hike is also 3/8 of a mile each way but is not quite as steep.

Brink of the Upper Falls

The North Rim road ends at the Loop Road. Head towards Lake if you want to visit the South Rim. Before you come to the turnoff for the South Rim, you will come to the Brink of the Upper Falls View. Do not miss this view and do not be discouraged by the sign that states 1/4 mile to the overview; this hike is very short. The trail ends at the Brink of the Upper Falls. You are so close that you can almost touch the falls; you can get wet if the wind is blowing in the right (wrong) direction. Unless you take the Red Rocks, Lookout Point, or Uncle Tom's Trail, you will not get any closer to either of the falls.

South Rim

After turning onto the South Rim Road continue to the very end and park in the Artist Point parking lot. Take the short trail to the overlook but be sure to stop along the way for incredible views of the Lower Falls and the canyon walls. Then continue to Uncle Tom's Trail and the Upper Falls View. If you are interested in hiking, you must do at least one of the trails into the Canyon. Uncle Tom's Trail is one of the best but does involve a lot of metal steps. If you do this trail, try to go during the middle of the day (I know contrary to what I said earlier) if it is a sunny day because you will see the most incredible rainbows.

In July we saw a black bear along the Loop Road between the South Rim Road turnoff and Canyon Village. The sighting was at 1:00 in the afternoon (so much for best viewings in the early morning and at dusk).

Mud Volcano Area

The Mud Volcano Area is past Canyon on the way to Yellowstone Lake. Buffalo, elk, and the occasional bear can be spotted here. I have encountered buffalo on the boardwalk several times and had to wait for them to move. We also saw a buffalo herd stampede through the parking lot (not a pretty sight) in September 1999.

Whatever you do, please do not stomp around, whine, hold your nose, and complain about the sulphur smell. You will see enough bratty children exhibiting these behaviors.

The trail distance is only 2/3 mile and after the first steep hill, the journey is quite easy. If you start at Mud Caldron and travel clockwise, the trail is not as steep as walking counterclockwise. Highlights of this area are: Mud Geyser, Sizzling Basin, Churning Caldron, Black Dragon's Caldron, Sour Lake, Grizzly Fumarole, Mud Volcano, and Dragon's Mouth Spring. Just up the road (towards Canyon is the parking lot for Sulphur Caldron; this stop takes about five minutes or so.

Buffalo Ford Picnic Area

The Buffalo Ford Picnic Area was our favorite picnic spot for several years. I think the coyote that roamed the parking lot has finally left. We actually saw a buffalo fording the river the last time we stopped for lunch. The tables nearest the river offer the best views, shade, and mosquitoes.

LeHardy Rapids

I finally saw a cut throat trout jump up the rapids in July. Mid-July is the prime viewing time so be sure to stop. The LeHardy Rapids are just a few miles past the Mud Volcano Area and before Fishing Bridge. Heading toward Lake Yellowstone, the LeHardy Rapids are on the left side of the road. There are two parking areas. Stop at the second area if you want to be closest to the prime viewing area. According to the sign, fish jump every fifteen seconds or so during peak season. We saw two in a thirty-five minute period. We saw two fish resting in a pool also. One woman stood with her camcorder aimed at the two resting fish and begged them to jump; she waited over twenty minutes and nothing happened. Even if you do not see any fish, the walk along the river is really pretty.

Road from Canyon to Lake Yellowstone

We have seen a tremendous amount of wildlife on this road. Last June, we saw two grizzly bears attempting to mate along the side of the road across from employee living quarters at Lake Yellowstone. We have often seen moose near the river. Buffalo also frequent this area and cause traffic jams.

Lake Yellowstone

Lake Yellowstone is the largest alpine lake in the United States. It freezes in the winter; I have seen it with portions still frozen in May and June. You can take an hour-long cruise on the lake and possibly see bald eagles and other wild life. We saw an eagle and some rednecks.

The Lake Hotel is worth a quick stop. The rooms are some of the best. Honeymooners and foreign tourists tend to stay at the Lake Hotel. The rooms have old-fashioned tubs with claw feet, brass faucets, and brass beds. During "happy hour" a string quartet, in formal attire, performs in the lobby. You can also take a forty-five minute guided tour of the hotel in the evenings.

Other highlights of the Lake area are: hike to Natural BridgeGulf Point Drive, and the amazing views of the mountains and the lake.

FlyForFun

One activity outside of YNP that your children may enjoy is Bear World. It is between Rexburg and Idaho Falls. If you are not lucky enough to see bears at Yellowstone, you can see them here. You can even pay $10 more and feed baby bears with a bottle. I prefer to see animals in their natural environment, but have to admit that I did enjoy my visit to Bear World and I did feed the baby bears (and stroked them).

Have fun!

TimF1975

FlyforFun -- thanks so much for your post! I caught this just as I'm leaving today. It's all printed out and I'll read it on the way.

ranshe

Landing SLC Sat, driving to West Yellowstone.
3 full days there - what are the best routes in Yellowstone, considering I need to entertain two kids (5,3)?
Next day checking out, and can either do another half day Yellowstone or start heading "immediately" to Grand Teton - need your advice here on best route, interesting stops on the way, etc.
2 full days @ Jackson (should I stay in Jackson or Teton village?) - again, asking for advice kids-friendly routes.
Next day need to return to SLC for a next-day early flight - any stops on the way? Anything interesting to do/see @ SLC (Saturday eve)?

Thanks,

BLI-Flyer

When are you going to Yellowstone? I have some friends who just went through there a few days ago and said the traffic was horrible. Bumper to bumper, and a very unpleasant drive. According to the National Park Service, this year has seen the most visitors to Yellowstone ever, so expect a very crowded park if you're going before Labor Day.

ranshe

Will arrive Sep/4 to SLC, so I immagine the first two days will be very crowded and hope it will be better after that.