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[Park partly closed due to floods] "Visiting/traveling to Yellowstone Park" thread

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Old Mar 29, 2014, 5:46 pm
  #181  
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Boston Suburbrs
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Posts: 1,205
Originally Posted by UA Fan
I liked it!

Re: the Old Faithful basin walk -- it's so flat, my mom did it on one of those motorized scooters.

yellowstone falls is a must -- all year round it flows (unlike some of the smaller seasonal ones) though in spring and after a rain it thunders. The "hike" down a wooden staircase to near the base is great. The climb back out is deadly though.

I visited the park twice. Once in late September and once in May. Both are "shoulder" seasons. You put up with chilly weather in trade for less crowds, cheaper lodging, etc. In Spring the animals are having babies, so you catch juvenile bison and such. In fall, the Elk are rutting about, mooing at eachother etc.
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Old Mar 31, 2014, 12:25 pm
  #182  
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 27
Originally Posted by UA Fan
Grand Prismatic Spring has spectacular colors. But the views really aren't great.

There is however, a way to get above and view down.
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Old Mar 31, 2014, 12:51 pm
  #183  
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 27
Originally Posted by OliverB
You have been such a huge help and that scenic byways site is great!!

Thank you again for taking the time to explain everything to me in such detail, I'm really excited for this trip and feel so much better prepared now!

Here is a copy/paste of the final itinerary with an added night at Red Lodge, just so that we can drive along the scenic route from the Old Faithful area to Cody and then up to the 212 to Red Lodge.

Let me know your thoughts on this final itinerary - and thank you again!!!!

* Wed, Aug. 06 (2014)

* Thu, Aug. 07 (2014)

* Fri, Aug. 08 (2014)

* Sat, Aug. 09 (2014)

* Sun, Aug. 10 (2014)

* Mon, Aug. 11 (2014)

* Tue, Aug. 12 (2014)

* Wed, Aug. 13 (2014)

* Thu, Aug. 14 (2014)

* Fri, Aug. 15 (2014)



• Connecting Flight into (JAC) Jackson Hole Airport

• Intermediate SUV Rental, Priceline

• Departure from (JAC) Jackson Hole Airport



================================================== ================================================== ===============================>>
================================================== ================================================== ===============================>>



JACKSON HOLE
____________
____________


>> The Wort Hotel - Deluxe King Room [OR] Antler Inn Motel - Cedar Room - (1 Night)




ACTIVITIES
----------

• Explore Old Town Square




Dining
------

• Sweetwater Restaurant (Dinner)






GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
_________________________
_________________________


>> Jenny Lake Lodge - Water Lilly Cabin Suite - (3 Nights)




ACTIVITIES
----------

• Early Morning Hike on Teton Crest Trail

• Wildlife Viewing in the Gros Ventre Range

• Hiking in the Lupine Meadows

• Sunrise Float down the Snake River

• Afternoon Trail Hiking, Swimming, Canoeing, and Picnic Lunch at Jackson Lake

• Oxbow Bend and Signal Mountain at Dawn

• Hike the Death Canyon Trailhead

• Cascade Canyon, Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point

• Scenic Drive along Teton Park Road

• Sunset Drive along the Rolling Plains of Antelope Flats




Dining
------

• Old Faithful Inn Room Service (Breakfast)

• Old Faithful Lodge Cafeteria (Brunch/Lunch)

• Hamilton's Store (Lunch)

• Old Faithful Inn Dining Room (Dinner/Breakfast)

• Lake Lodge (Dinner/Breakfast)






YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK - SOUTHWEST
_____________________________________
_____________________________________


>> Old Faithful Inn - Suite 3014 - (2 Nights)




ACTIVITIES
----------

• Early Morning Ranger Led Walk through Upper Geyser Basin:

* Old Faithful
* Artemisia Geyser
* Morning Glory Pool
* Riverside Geyser
* Spa Geyser
* Rocket Geyser
* Grotto Geyser
* Daisy Geyser
* Comet Geyser
* Splendid Geyser
* Punchbowl Geyser
* Mastiff Geyser
* Giant Geyser
* Oblong Geyser
* Beauty Pool
* Turban Geyser
* Grand Geyser
* Spasmodic Geyser
* Sawmill Geyser
* Crested Pool
* Castle Geyser
* Lion Group
* Ear Spring
* Aurum Geyser
* Doublet Pool
* Pump Geyser
* Sponge Geyser
* Giantess Geyser
* Heart Spring
* Depression Geyser
* Beehive Geyser
* Plume Geyser
* Anemone Geyser
* Blue Star Spring
* Chinaman Spring
* Lone Star Geyser


• Tour of Black Sand Basin:

* Opalescent Pool
* Spouter Geyser
* Cliff Geyser
* Emerald Pool
* Rainbow Pool
* Sunset Lake


• Tour of Midway Geyser Basin:

* Grand Prismatic Spring
* Excelsior Geyser
* Turquoise Pool


• Early Morning Tour of Lower Geyser Basin:

* Queen's Laundry & Sentinel Meadows
* Sentinel Cone
* Ojo Caliente
* Pocket Basin Mud Pots
* Imperial Geyser
* Spray Geyser
* Octopus Spring
* Great Fountain Geyser
* White Dome Geyser
* Pink Cone Geyser
* Bead Geyser
* Narcissus Geyser
* Steady Geyser
* Silex Spring
* Fountain Paint Pot
* Fountain Geyser
* Clepsydra Geyser
* Jelly Geyser


• Morning Swim in Firehole River


• Scenic Drive through the Upper Loop




Dining
------

• Old Faithful Inn Room Service (Breakfast)

• Old Faithful Lodge Cafeteria (Brunch/Lunch)

• Hamilton's Store (Lunch)

• Old Faithful Inn Dining Room (Dinner/Breakfast)

• Lake Lodge (Dinner/Breakfast)

• Old Faithful Observation Deck (Cocktails)






RED LODGE
_________
_________


>> Yodeler Motel - Upper Level King - (1 Night)




DRIVING DIRECTIONS FROM WEST YELLOWSTONE
----------------------------------------

1. Follow Grand Loop Rd / US-20 E around Yellowstone Lake towards Cody

2. Turn onto WY-120 W to State Hwy 296 / Chief Joseph Hwy

3. Continue on Crandall / Dead Indian Hill to Sunlight Basin Rd

4. Turn Right onto US-12 E / Bear Tooth Pass Hwy

5. Continue to Red Lodge




ACTIVITIES
----------

• Scenic Drive along the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway (Grand Loop Rd to US-14/16/20 E) through The Shoshone National Forest and Buffalo Bill State Park:

* Visit Wapiti Ranger Station (Oldest U.S. Forest Service Ranger Station, 1903)
* Explore the Old West Town of Cody and Buffalo Bill Historical Center
* Visit Pahaska Tepee Historic Lodge


• Scenic Drive along the Chief Joseph Highway from Cody to Crandall:

* Wildlife Viewing at Two Dot Flats
* Dead Indian Summit Overlook
* Sunlight Creek Bridge
* Panoramic View of Cathedral Cliffs


• Scenic Drive along Beartooth Highway (US-212 W)




Dining
------

• Cassie's Supper Club - (Cody)

• Irma Grill - (Cody)

• Proud Cut Saloon - (Cody)

• The Lodgepole Room and Teepee Tavern - (Cody)

• Regis Grocery / Cafe Regis - (Red Lodge)

• Red Lodge Cafe - (Red Lodge)

• City Bakery - (Red Lodge)






YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK - NORTHEAST
_____________________________________
_____________________________________


>> Roosevelt Lodge Cabins - Frontier Cabin - (2 Nights)




ACTIVITIES
----------

• Early Morning Wildlife Viewing along Madison Junction Route:

* National Park Mountain
* Madison River
* Mount Haynes


• Norris Geyser Basin:

* Roaring Mountain
* Cinder Pool
* Valentine Geyser
* Ledge Geyser
* Porcelain Terrace Springs
* Africa Geyser
* Whirligig Geyser
* Steamboat Geyser
* Cistern Spring
* Echinus Geyser
* Vixen Geyser
* Porkchop Geyser
* Back Basin trail


• Mammoth Hot Springs via Tower Junction:

* Liberty Cap
* Opal Terrace
* Minerva Spring and Terrace
* Orange Spring Mound
* New Highland Spring
* Canary Spring and Terrace
* Gardner River and Canyon


• Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone - (North Rim Drive to Artist Point)

* Lower Falls
* The Red Rock Trail
* Crystal Falls
* Inspiration Point


• Early Morning Swim in Boiling River


• Wolf Sightings in The Lamar Valley at Dusk / Dawn


• Scenic Drive through the Upper Loop




Dining
------

• Outdoor Picnic (Brunch/Lunch)

• Roosevelt Lodge Dining Room (Dinner/Breakfast)

• Trail Ride to Chuck Wagon / Roosevelt Old West Dinner Cookout (Dinner/Breakfast) - ?






JACKSON VILLAGE / JACKSON HOLE
______________________________
______________________________


>> Alpenhof Lodge - Bavarian King [OR] The Wort Hotel - Deluxe King Room [OR] Antler Inn Motel - Cedar Room - (1 Night)
Since I can't help you with your current Japan project I'll help you with what I know about; Your Yellowstone / Grand Tetons project.

I realize you pride yourself in doing meticulous planning. However, I think you might be better served if you did meticulous research instead. This isn't meant as a crticism but rather a suggestion.

For instance, rather than merely cutting and pasting 30 or 40 geysers from an internet article into your itinerary, why not research some of those geysers.

If you took a couple of hour walk thru Geyser Loop and the rest of the Upper Basin, you'll find that you pass literally all of the geysers mentioned.

In fact, during any walk 15 minutes away from Old Faithful, you'll pass at least a dozen geysers.

They all have signs on the boardwalk so you know their names.

Many are dormant and haven't erupted in years while others constantly steam, bubble, etc. If you are lucky you may see some erupt.

There are only 5 geysers that are predicted. These are listed in the lobbies of the various lodging in the OF area. Some of these erupt as seldom as once or twice a day with a window of + or - 2 or 3 hours. So seeing these erupt is a combination of luck and patience.

I probably have some influence because I saw Grand and Riverside Geysers (both predicted) both erupt within an hour of each other. One past the end of its window and the other at the start of its window.

While I expected Old Faithful to be a run-of-the-mill attraction I was truly surprised. It is spectacular!!!!

Of course, they built a whole complex around OF. The trick is to see it without the massive crowds. Well, that's pretty easy.

Early in the morning you'll beat those who sleep in or are having breakfast. The tour buses that call ahead for the time of the next eruption are not on the road yet.

Also, early in the morning the sun is to your back and glistening off the spray and the wind hasn't as yet kicked up.

Unfortunately, all eruptions or intervals are not equal. So you may have to time several eruptions to see a really good one. You may have more influence than me so insisting on the best eruption when you're there may get you somewhere. It may not hurt.

Also, if you walk around to the other side of OF directly opposite the viewing boardwalk, there are a few seats at Plume Geyser and you can get a quiet view of OF from the other side. This is probably best in late afternoon or evening when the sun will be to your back from that side.

The best part is that OF erupts approximately every 90 minutes so you have your choice of times throughout the day until they turn it off at night to conserve energy (LOL).

Last edited by WildWilly; Mar 31, 2014 at 12:57 pm
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Old Mar 31, 2014, 9:14 pm
  #184  
 
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Originally Posted by OliverB
Thanks again, great info!!

So I'll add an extra night in Jenny Lake then?

The total eclipse over Teton must be magical; perhaps I'll be back for that as well!
I dont see your ... very detailed.. itin to reply to, so I'll post my thoughts -- I read it in someone else's reply.

the bar at the Irma hotel is worth a look -- a huge cherry wood bar. I had a Bison burger.

Also, there is a nice view above old faithful -- there's a moderately steep trail on the far side, from the top you look down on it with the lodge int he background. colors at sunset were very nice.

Jackson hole is pretty close to Grand Teton. I'm not sure there's value in the move, although Jenny Lake lodge is pricey so saving a night might be worth it. I dont recall much about the Wort. I stayed in a Best Western the first time, on a budget, and pricelined the Snake River lodge in teton village the second time. you could certainly drive to JH and walk around while staying all nights in the park.
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Old Apr 22, 2014, 11:27 am
  #185  
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,108
Originally Posted by WildWilly
Since I can't help you with your current Japan project I'll help you with what I know about; Your Yellowstone / Grand Tetons project.

I realize you pride yourself in doing meticulous planning. However, I think you might be better served if you did meticulous research instead. This isn't meant as a crticism but rather a suggestion.

For instance, rather than merely cutting and pasting 30 or 40 geysers from an internet article into your itinerary, why not research some of those geysers.

If you took a couple of hour walk thru Geyser Loop and the rest of the Upper Basin, you'll find that you pass literally all of the geysers mentioned.

In fact, during any walk 15 minutes away from Old Faithful, you'll pass at least a dozen geysers.

They all have signs on the boardwalk so you know their names.

Many are dormant and haven't erupted in years while others constantly steam, bubble, etc. If you are lucky you may see some erupt.

There are only 5 geysers that are predicted. These are listed in the lobbies of the various lodging in the OF area. Some of these erupt as seldom as once or twice a day with a window of + or - 2 or 3 hours. So seeing these erupt is a combination of luck and patience.

I probably have some influence because I saw Grand and Riverside Geysers (both predicted) both erupt within an hour of each other. One past the end of its window and the other at the start of its window.

While I expected Old Faithful to be a run-of-the-mill attraction I was truly surprised. It is spectacular!!!!

Of course, they built a whole complex around OF. The trick is to see it without the massive crowds. Well, that's pretty easy.

Early in the morning you'll beat those who sleep in or are having breakfast. The tour buses that call ahead for the time of the next eruption are not on the road yet.

Also, early in the morning the sun is to your back and glistening off the spray and the wind hasn't as yet kicked up.

Unfortunately, all eruptions or intervals are not equal. So you may have to time several eruptions to see a really good one. You may have more influence than me so insisting on the best eruption when you're there may get you somewhere. It may not hurt.

Also, if you walk around to the other side of OF directly opposite the viewing boardwalk, there are a few seats at Plume Geyser and you can get a quiet view of OF from the other side. This is probably best in late afternoon or evening when the sun will be to your back from that side.

The best part is that OF erupts approximately every 90 minutes so you have your choice of times throughout the day until they turn it off at night to conserve energy (LOL).
Thanks WW,

I've been so focused and concentrated on Japan for the past many months that I haven't revisited this thread in a while.

I did in fact do quite a bit of research and understand the layout of the geysers and realize that they are fairly concentrated and can all be visited on several tours along the boardwalks. I simply noted them as reference, because I like to mark all points of interest and sights on itineraries when travelling. That way, I'm able to do further research and read up on the particulars of each point, place, or landmark so that I can better appreciate history and context. It's just a personal travel device that I find useful.

I do have one big question that I'd really appreciate some advice and thoughts on...

We are finally confirming this trip for next August or September (it's been delayed this year due to our Japan trip) and I'm wondering whether it would be more enjoyable to book before or after Labor Day?

As noted, we'll be spending 11 nights and I'm taking the following into account:

- Influx of crowds and tourists.

- Wildlife activity and viewing; bison migration, hibernation, etc.

- Temperature and climate. We hope to do some water activities around Jenny Lake; boating and river rafting, etc. I understand the lakes are actually warmest in September because they've had the summer months to heat up, but that doesn't help much if outside temperatures are in the cool 60s at mid-day. We'd also like to soak in Firehole River but unsure whether it'd be too cold in early Sept?

- Lodging closings. I understand that Roosevelt Frontier Cabins operate only until Sep. 14 for the 2014 season. Obviously not published yet for 2015.

- Last but note least: scenic beauty - waterfalls, foliage (I imagine the forests are mostly coniferous), etc.


Our schedule is flexible enough that we can plan for any dates in the fall and I think it's generally acknowledged that Aug-Sep offers the most rewarding experience for most of America's Nat'l Parks. I'd like to narrow it down a bit further though and decide whether to book directly before or after Labor Day, or plan to spend Labor Day weekend at Jenny Lake in Teton and then move on to Yellowstone? Would we be overrun with families staying in Teton over the long weekend?

Last edited by OliverB; Apr 22, 2014 at 11:59 am
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Old Apr 22, 2014, 6:47 pm
  #186  
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Location: Marietta, Georgia, United States
Posts: 24,996
I still stand by my original advice from which you may begin to plan your Labor Day visit to Yellowstone National Park, Grand Tetons National Park and other surrounding areas:
Originally Posted by Canarsie
I personally would recommend straddling the season.

Several years ago, I spent about a week at Yellowstone National Park and Grand Teton National Park over Memorial Day weekend. Before that weekend, the parks were not crowded — but then, certain venues were closed. After the weekend, it was noticeably more crowded — but then, everything was open.

If you plan your trip right, you will get to enjoy the best of both season and off-season.
Figure on the reverse trend for Labor Day in comparison to Memorial Day.

You might even want to consider sandwiching Grand Tetons National Park between Yellowstone National Park before Labor Day and again after Labor Day. The differences will definitely be noticeable; and you get to take advantage of the best of both worlds of being there during the season as well as off-season.
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Old Apr 23, 2014, 12:11 am
  #187  
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,108
Just curious but why were certain things closed before Labor Day weekend? Could you please be a bit more specific as to the type of sights which weren't accessible? I don't understand why this would be an issue or concern before rather than after.

The truth is that I can easily schedule the entire trip before Labor Day weekend; from the last week of August until around September 3rd or thereabouts. Wouldn't that be easier than straddling the holiday?

I really don't want to drive in and out of the Parks as the whole appeal for visiting them is to completely escape, and once we're inside, we'd like to lose ourselves and not have to think about driving elsewhere to avoid crowds.

Because I'm also planning the trip in a way that covers the parks pretty exhaustively, it would be a bit of an inconvenience to have to veer off the route we're following and remap our itinerary.

I'd much rather just plan for before or after Labor Day but I'm not sure which would be more optimal... I also wonder if we should purposefully avoid weekends and fly in on a Sunday so that we're only spending one full weekend in the parks instead of two. Surely that'd be a smart way to avoid the weekend crowds, right?

Does Teton or Yellowstone get crowded end of August or is it fairly quiet in the Parks until Labor Day rolls around?
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Old Apr 23, 2014, 12:35 am
  #188  
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,108
What I was thinking could work would be something like this...


Tue, Aug. 18 - Jackson Hole

Wed, Aug. 19 - Jenny Lake Lodge

Thu, Aug. 20 - Jenny Lake Lodge

Fri, Aug. 21 - Jenny Lake Lodge

Sat, Aug. 22 - Jenny Lake Lodge

Sun, Aug. 23 - Yellowstone, Old Faithfull

Mon, Aug. 24 - Yellowstone, Old Faithfull

Tue, Aug. 25 - Red Lodge

Wed, Aug. 26 - Yellowstone, Roosevelt Lodge

Thu, Aug. 27 - Yellowstone, Roosevelt Lodge

Fri, Aug. 28 - Jackson Hole


This way, we're only spending one weekend in the Parks and it's at Jenny Lake in Teton on Fri/Sat and Old Faithfull Inn on Sun.

Do you think Jenny Lake will be packed with families late in August (weekend of 20th) or will the tourist season have slowed to pace by this point?

I'd much rather do Yellowstone during the week because it will obviously be the most crowded destination in the Parks, but I'd assume that by Sunday-Monday we should be alright?

I could always push the trip back one full day and kick off on Wed. so that we arrive at the Yellowstone gates on a Monday... but that'd mean we'd basically be spending a full weekend in Jenny Lake and I was trying to keep some end-of-week overlap, so that we'd have a couple of quite days.

I don't think we'd have a problem with crowds at Roosevelt Lodge on a Wednesday and Thursday, so this could be the best solution.

Any thoughts?

Also, should I extend an extra night at the Old Faithfull Inn or is 2 nights plenty to cover everything we intend to do and see?

Thanks!!

Last edited by OliverB; Apr 23, 2014 at 12:41 am
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Old Apr 23, 2014, 12:51 am
  #189  
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,108
Would it be more advisable to do:

Mon-Tues in Old Faithful and a Thu-Fri in Roosevelt

**or**

Sun-Mon in Old Faithful and a Wed-Thu in Roosevelt

???

There's some compromise eitherway but which would you suggest is the best bet to avoid crowds during the last week of August?

I'm sure it's nowhere near as busy as Old Faithfull, but does the Roosevelt Lodge area get particularly crowded on weekends too? As it's a bit more wild and off the beaten tourist track (compared to other destinations within the park) and an active sport for wildlife, I wonder if it would be better to try and stay at Roosevelt during the week to really escape the noise, since OF will always have lots of foot traffic. What do you think?
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Old Apr 23, 2014, 4:01 pm
  #190  
 
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Originally Posted by OliverB
What I was thinking could work would be something like this...


Tue, Aug. 18 - Jackson Hole

Wed, Aug. 19 - Jenny Lake Lodge

Thu, Aug. 20 - Jenny Lake Lodge

Fri, Aug. 21 - Jenny Lake Lodge

Sat, Aug. 22 - Jenny Lake Lodge

Sun, Aug. 23 - Yellowstone, Old Faithfull

Mon, Aug. 24 - Yellowstone, Old Faithfull

Tue, Aug. 25 - Red Lodge

Wed, Aug. 26 - Yellowstone, Roosevelt Lodge

Thu, Aug. 27 - Yellowstone, Roosevelt Lodge

Fri, Aug. 28 - Jackson Hole


This way, we're only spending one weekend in the Parks and it's at Jenny Lake in Teton on Fri/Sat and Old Faithfull Inn on Sun.

Do you think Jenny Lake will be packed with families late in August (weekend of 20th) or will the tourist season have slowed to pace by this point?

I'd much rather do Yellowstone during the week because it will obviously be the most crowded destination in the Parks, but I'd assume that by Sunday-Monday we should be alright?

I could always push the trip back one full day and kick off on Wed. so that we arrive at the Yellowstone gates on a Monday... but that'd mean we'd basically be spending a full weekend in Jenny Lake and I was trying to keep some end-of-week overlap, so that we'd have a couple of quite days.

I don't think we'd have a problem with crowds at Roosevelt Lodge on a Wednesday and Thursday, so this could be the best solution.

Any thoughts?

Also, should I extend an extra night at the Old Faithfull Inn or is 2 nights plenty to cover everything we intend to do and see?

Thanks!!
a few things....


Yellowstone doesnt generally open until Memorial Day because of winter weather.

During winter the only part of the park that has open roads is the northern part from Cooke City to amouth hot springs. All the other entry points are pretty much closed for winter due to snow levels.

Depending on snow levels is when the park roads will open. It can be around this time of year but it can be later.

Bearttoth is the highest pass crossing so it possibly may not open unti June in a heavy snofall year.

even after the roads are open, you still have snowpack on the grounds and chance of snow in May. People just do not want to visit during May because of the uncertainty with weather. While the east coast may have great weather in May for a visit, the high elevations out west still are cold and can and do get snow and much of it hasnt melted yet.

The parks roads stay open until first significant snowfall which could happen in October. The park facilities close by the end of September because it usually gets colder, so people generally do not want to come and visit then. You get a heavy snow fall and people cant access the park the hotel loses serious money so why risk opening early staying open late?
mid August on there isnt as much crowds visiting because many kids have returned to school or to college or will in the next week or so. People dont travel as much then.


As far as the itinerary....

Tue, Aug. 18 - Jackson Hole
Wed, Aug. 19 - Jenny Lake Lodge
Thu, Aug. 20 - Jenny Lake Lodge
Fri, Aug. 21 - Jenny Lake Lodge
Sat, Aug. 22 - Jenny Lake Lodge
Sun, Aug. 23 - Yellowstone, Old Faithfull
Mon, Aug. 24 - Yellowstone, Old Faithfull
Tue, Aug. 25 - Red Lodge
Wed, Aug. 26 - Yellowstone, Roosevelt Lodge
Thu, Aug. 27 - Yellowstone, Roosevelt Lodge
Fri, Aug. 28 - Jackson Hole


To try and minimize the amount you need to drive you need to be willing to move your lodgining around as a trade off.

I would cut down on Jenny Lake stay. I dont think you need that much time in Grand teton and would shift it.

Friday and Saturday I would shift your stay at Jenny Lake to Yellowstone---to old faithful for 2 nights,

Fri transition between parks----stay old faithful
Sat old faithful area----stay old faithful
sun drive up to Mamouth hot springs--stay there or in Roosevelt
mon Mamouth hot springs/grand canyon yellowstone-roosevelt
tue Lamar Valley/beartooth highway ---Red Lodge
wed Cody/Cheif Joseph highway-Hayden--Canyon/lake
thu Lake yellowsotne--Canyon/Lake
fri Lake yellowstone area---drive down to Grand Teton
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Old Apr 23, 2014, 6:44 pm
  #191  
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,108
Thanks so much djp98374,

I was trying to avoid staying at Old Faithful Inn over a weekend, because I assume that even in the slowest months, it's still the most populated and crowded place within the parks, so I was trying to coordinate our stay over week days as a result. Do you agree that it would be slightly quieter and less busy during the week?

If you recall from the itinerary that you'd helped me so much with many months ago, the reason for our 4 night stay at Jenny Lake Lodge is because of all the hiking we plan to do:

1 full day for Hidden Falls, Inspiration Point, Cascade Canyon - (possibly continuing to Lake Solitude though planned in advance; unlikely though!)

1 full day for Lupine Meadows Trailhead (Moose Pond, Garnett Trail Jnctn, Suprise Lake & Amphitheater Lake) or portions of Teton Crest Trail.

1 full day hiking the Death Canyon Trailhead from White Grass Ranger Station past Phelps Lake.

And in addition to all of the above hikes... several mornings spent at Schwabacher Landing, Oxbow Bend and Signal Mountain, canoeing on Jenny Lake, sunsets along Teton Park Road and wildlife viewing in the Gros Ventre Range and Antelope Flats. All of these things combined would surely take up 3 full days.

Beyond that, I'd like a full day to just relax and enjoy the surroundings without any plans... maybe float down the Snake River, take a boat out on Jackson Lake... or as crazy as it sounds, possibly just enjoy lounging around our cabin, reading, admiring the sunsets, mixing drinks (never travel without our portable bar kit, ha!) and so on.

So that should easily consume 4 days, right?


As for the reason for going from Old Faithful directly to Red Lodge (rather than Roosevelt) is because we want to drive around Yellowstone Lake towards Cody and do the Buffalo Bill Scenic Byway, which would spit us back out at Bear Tooth Pass and allow us easy access to the Roosevelt Lodge area via the NE Entrance to the Park.

I guess it doesn't really make a difference eitherway since it's one big loop, but if we take the 20 E to Chief Joseph Hwy and then wrap back around into the park to stay at Roosevelt (and then continue on our way back towards Jackson) then we reduce the amount of driving time between each destination because Cody all the way down to Jackson is over 5.5 hours... whereas Old Faithful to Cody is only 3.75 - 4 hours and Cody to Roosevelt is under 3 hours as well. So we'd never face an almost 6-hour stretch of driving because Cody and Jackson are the two furthest distances apart and by not travelling between them direct and placing other overnight destinations between them, it just feels like an easier drive.

Also, this may seem silly but it feels like a more diverse itinerary too. I know it's technically the same, but doing Cody and Jackson back-to-back would sort of feel like our trip was coming to an end (because we would be bidding farewell to the Park) - whereas driving the Buffalo Bill Hwy to Cody between Old Faithfull Inn and Roosevelt Lodge, feels to me like an appendage to our stay in the Parks rather than the end of a chapter. Hope that makes sense!

What do you think?


EDIT: I just noticed your suggestion of Canyon Lake to break up the long drive back! I'm not really familiar with that area to be honest, but I'm going to do a bit more research on it now!

One more question for you... do you suggest Canyon Lodge for 2 nights as a vantage point to exploring the Park or merely as a stopover from Cody?

I just mapped it out and the area is basically mid-way point between Old Faithfull and Roosevelt, which is an approx. 2-hour drive. Could you please propose some activities and sightseeing in this part of the park that couldn't be done from Roosevelt Lodge during our 2 night stay?

Also, what type of accommodations/lodging do you suggest in this camp? Lake Lodge looks a lot more attractive than Canyon Lodge and looks to be a lot older too. I'd guess Canyon Lodge was built as a budget lodge sometime in the 60s? What about Lake Yellowstone Hotel - how does it compare to Lake Lodge Cabins in terms of crowds, wildlife, views, etc?

EDIT #2: Sorry for the confusing replies but I completely understand the reasoning for your suggestion now and I will adjust accordingly... I should have spent some time mapping and researching before hitting the "post" button!

How does this look to you?


Wed, 08/19 – The Wort Hotel / Antler Inn Motel

Thu, 08/20 – Jenny Lake Lodge

Fri, 08/21 – Jenny Lake Lodge

Sat, 08/22 – Jenny Lake Lodge

Sun, 08/23 – Jenny Lake Lodge


Mon, 08/24 – Old Faithfull Inn

Tue, 08/25 – Old Faithfull Inn

Wed, 08/26 – Roosevelt Lodge Cabins

Thu, 08/27 – Roosevelt Lodge Cabins

Fri, 08/28 – Yodeler Motel

Sat, 08/29 – Lake Lodge or Lake Yellowstone Hotel

Sun, 08/30 – Lake Lodge or Lake Yellowstone Hotel


Mon, 08/31 – Alpenhof Lodge

Tue, 09/01 – Alpenhof Lodge


I've highlighted weekends in red, as I expect these to be the busiest and most crowded portions of our trip. Unfortunately, there is no way to escape weekends in Yellowstone, but at least we're doing Lake Lodge at the very end of the month.

I've decided that it's a toss-up between the historic 1920 cabins at Lake Lodge and Lake Yellowstone Hotel... I'm trying to determine which would allow for better wildlife interraction, views, and feels the most "original". Has Lake Yellowstone Hotel gone through extensive renovation that's stripped it of it's historic character or does it still posess it's 1920's charm?

Also, do you agree with my opinions about staying 4-nights at Jenny Lake or do you still feel it's too long even after describing all that we intend to do? Also, unless we start the trip later - knocking a day off Jenny would mean staying at Old Faithfull on a Saturday night which I'd really like to avoid, if possible.

If you could please suggest a 2-day itinerary for the Lake Lodge area, it would be an enormous help - you should write a Nat'l Park travel guide! You've been such a huge help in my planning... I'd eagerly buy it!!

Do you know anything about the history of the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel btw?

I'm curious because I've seen old archival photos on the Nat'l Parks gov website and it used to have a grand lodge feel with a beautiful dining room with wood beams, reminiscent of Old Faithfull Inn. From what I've read, the hotel was last rebuilt in the 1930's although it has a very contemporary and generic suburban chain hotel look to it in all photos that I've seen online. What happened to the original structure? Did it burn down at some point or is it just an amalgamation of bad decision making and poor, cheap redesign? It's a shame that it no longer reflects the rustic grandeur that I've seen in old photos.

Btw, what would be the best vantage point to visit West Yellowstone and the Grizzly and Wolf Research Center? Should we plan to stop for a few hours driving back from Lake Lodge or would it be easier to go en route between Jenny Lake and Old Faithfull?

I take it there's no point in spending a night (or any extended time) in this area as it looks a lot more developed, like a small commercial center. Would that be a correct assumption?

Last edited by OliverB; Apr 24, 2014 at 8:47 am Reason: merged poster's five consecutive posts
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Old Apr 24, 2014, 10:51 am
  #192  
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 27
I wouldn't bother looking into too many geysers as they are located one after the other.

There are 5 that are predicted and listed with approximate times in the OF area lodgings. Old Faithful, Grand, Riverside, Castle (I think) and one other. OF is the easiest to see as it's close and erupts the most often. Some erupt once or twice a day with a window of + or - 2-3 hours. And the sign says it "may" erupt in most cases.

Somebody mentioned an elevated view of OF. That's Observation Point. It takes 20-30 minutes to climb up there. You are in some elevation there.

Wildlife. They are most active early in the morning and late afternoon/evening. So staying in the areas they frequent is more important than the quality of the lodging. That's if viewing wildlife is a high priority. You want to avoid driving in the dark and possibly hitting animals. More animals die from accidents than anything else.

Viewing wildlife (other than bison that you definitely see in Hayden and Lamar Valleys) is a combination of going to places they frequent, being there at the right time and luck. Contrary to what some think, they aren't paraded out.

You should definitely stay in the parks, at several different locations and pay attention to what you want to see and do rather than how luxurious a specific lodging may or may not be. Depending upon your priorities the best place may be a $90 room. It is possible. Unless of course, a luxurious room "is" your top priority.

Crowds. The only time you will have real crowds anywhere are at popular places on the weekend. One such place may be the Jenny Lake hike to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point.

In most places there will be some people but not crowds. Especially more than 100 yards from the cars.

When to go. There is a reason very few people are there in April / May and Sept / October. Yellowstone has a short season due to weather. If you want to hike in mud or in snow and have to drive because lodging either hasn't opened yet or has closed for the season then fine.

If you want to go to a popular place then you are a tourist like the rest of the visitors. Don't try to be somebody else. Trying to avoid people at all costs will either put you in a place nobody else wants to go to or you will be in a popular place at an unpopular time. There's a reason for that.

A lot of people are there to check things off on a list. They will not be around early in the morning or late in the day. They eat 3 full meals a day and spend at least an hour in a restaurant for each meal. If they are driving themselves they most likely will not venture more than 100 yards from the car. So I've eliminated 80% of the people.
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Old Apr 24, 2014, 11:25 am
  #193  
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,108
Thanks WW,

All good points to take into account!

I think we're pretty set with regards to lodging. We're staying at Jenny Lake, Old Faithful Inn (which is indeed a priority for me), Roosevelt Cabins (wildlife viewing), and Lake Lodge. I think with the amount of time that we have in the Parks and our desire to explore and venture off the beaten paths at early hours, we should be positioning ourselves pretty strongly for experiencing wildlife.

I do have one question regarding the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway...

Now that our itinerary has shifted and we'll be going from Jenny Lake to Old Faithfull to Roosevelt to Cody, is there any reason to drive to Red Lodge at all? Is the NE Entrance to the park and the drive to Red Lodge part of the scenic pass... or should we simply take Crandall Rd directly into Cody from Roosevelt Lodge?

I'm asking becuase we are now planning to spend the night in Cody rather than Red Lodge.

By driving through to Red Lodge, we'd be covering the entire stretch of the Bear Tooth Pass Hwy, right?

If we do this, and then cut down to Cody, does it make more sense to do the Buffallo Bill Scenic Byway on the same day (essentially driving from Roosevelt Lodge to Red Lodge towards Chief Joseph Hwy... then back up along Crandall and Dead Indian Hill Rd to Sunlight Basin which is in the direction of Roosevelt again!

Should we save this for the following day, before continuing to Lake Lodge?

Last edited by OliverB; Apr 24, 2014 at 11:32 am
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Old Apr 24, 2014, 1:19 pm
  #194  
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 27
I think you mentioned your dates are flexible and you have no time restraints. I take that to mean you can go whenever you want for as long as you want. Most people are not in a position to do that.

The purpose for Red Lodge is a place to stay. Not necessarily for the lodge. The draw is the drive on the Beartooth Exp.

OF Inn is historic but not luxurious. Some people claim they're staying there for the views. I guess if you do have a view and want to sit and watch OF erupt every 90 minutes and sip wine in between, then that's a decision. Is that a good enough reason to have a noisy room with paper-thin walls and possibly creaky ceiling and floors? Again, that's a decision.

I like a nice hotel like next person but that would be a very low priority for me in a national park. It has never been a life long dream of mine to stay at every luxurious resort on the continent.

If the hotel is the reason for being in a specific location then so be it. That's a decision. But don't plan, for example, on staying at the Amangiri and convince yourself it's for convenience and then decide to see every sight in Southern Utah from that as a base. Nothing wrong with giving yourself a couple of days relaxation after a tough trip but don't ruin the whole trip.

There's nothing wrong with listing your desired activities and if one is staying at a specific hotel because it's the most expensive hotel in the world, then list that as one of your activities.

I guess in a roundabout way I'm suggesting that while lodging has to be booked early it should be selected based on your desired activities. Don't select lodging (for whatever reason) and then try to plan fives days of distant activities around that location. You don't want to be driving for a couple of hours in the dark on those roads.

I noticed you mentioned several locations: Schwabacher Landing, Oxbow Bend, etc. Schwabacher Landing has been closed (and the sign removed) for a couple of years due to budgetary cuts. Apparently it's reopening this summer. Unless you have your own boat, that's a half mile dirt road drive and a 15 minute stop for photographers at the right time of day. Same really for Oxbow Bend though this is easier to get to than the Landing as it's right on the side of the road. There is a possibility of seeing evening wildlife but. . .
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Old Apr 24, 2014, 2:42 pm
  #195  
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,108
Originally Posted by WildWilly
I think you mentioned your dates are flexible and you have no time restraints. I take that to mean you can go whenever you want for as long as you want. Most people are not in a position to do that.

The purpose for Red Lodge is a place to stay. Not necessarily for the lodge. The draw is the drive on the Beartooth Exp.

OF Inn is historic but not luxurious. Some people claim they're staying there for the views. I guess if you do have a view and want to sit and watch OF erupt every 90 minutes and sip wine in between, then that's a decision. Is that a good enough reason to have a noisy room with paper-thin walls and possibly creaky ceiling and floors? Again, that's a decision.

I like a nice hotel like next person but that would be a very low priority for me in a national park. It has never been a life long dream of mine to stay at every luxurious resort on the continent.

If the hotel is the reason for being in a specific location then so be it. That's a decision. But don't plan, for example, on staying at the Amangiri and convince yourself it's for convenience and then decide to see every sight in Southern Utah from that as a base. Nothing wrong with giving yourself a couple of days relaxation after a tough trip but don't ruin the whole trip.

There's nothing wrong with listing your desired activities and if one is staying at a specific hotel because it's the most expensive hotel in the world, then list that as one of your activities.

I guess in a roundabout way I'm suggesting that while lodging has to be booked early it should be selected based on your desired activities. Don't select lodging (for whatever reason) and then try to plan fives days of distant activities around that location. You don't want to be driving for a couple of hours in the dark on those roads.

I noticed you mentioned several locations: Schwabacher Landing, Oxbow Bend, etc. Schwabacher Landing has been closed (and the sign removed) for a couple of years due to budgetary cuts. Apparently it's reopening this summer. Unless you have your own boat, that's a half mile dirt road drive and a 15 minute stop for photographers at the right time of day. Same really for Oxbow Bend though this is easier to get to than the Landing as it's right on the side of the road. There is a possibility of seeing evening wildlife but. . .

I am really not concerned with luxury (I would never expect that in the Nat'l Parks) nor staying in the most expensive properties. I'm not sure why you'd suggest that we are not basing ourselves in locations ideally suited to our intended activities when I've merely been following the helpful advice of djp98374 with regards to our accommodations.

I realize that Old Faithfull Inn will be overcrowded and probably noisy as well. As you yourself said earlier, that's because it's central to many of the focal attractions of Yellowstone. I'm personally interested in history, which is as much a part of the Nat'l Parks experience as the surrounding wilderness. Old Faithfull Inn meets that for me. It is also as conveniently located to the geisers as you can get, so I feel that's a safe choice and am content with the plans.

The one area of confusion for me is where to stay between Roosevelt Lodge and Lake Lodge.

I would like to do the Beartooth Highway scenic drive, the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway, the scenic drive along the Chief Joseph Hwy from Cody to Crandall (wildlife viewing at Two Dot Flats, Dead Indian Summit Overlook, Sunlight Creek Bridge) and visit the Wapiti Ranger Station.

I would also like to spend several hours in Cody, touring the Old West town, Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Pahaska Teepee Historic Lodge, etc.

We will be leaving the Roosevelt Lodge Cabins area and following the above itinerary... we'll probably start off driving through Red Lodge and cut down towards Cody. We'll either cut back up NW along the Chief Joseph Hwy towards Crandall if we have time to (leisurely) make the trip and return. Or we'll spend the afternoon touring Cody and sleep there overnight, then do the drive the next morning. We'll then continue on towards the Lake Lodge area of the park.

What I'd really appreciate advice on, since I've never visited Yellowstone before, is where to stay in order to best position ourselves for all of the above. Assumably, Red Lodge is not reall yideal anymore. I had initially considered staying there because our original plans took us from Old Faithfull to Red Lodge to Roosevelt. Now we're going from Old Faithfull to Roosevelt directly, so Red Lodge seems less practical.

I'm considering Cody. I'm also considering Absaroka and Shoshone Lodge. I had looked into Bill Cody Ranch too, but that seems a bit far from Cody and a bit too close to the Lake Lodge area to make it worthwhile.

What would you suggest? I wouldn't mind spending a full day/night horseback riding in the area. I would still like to reserve enough time to spend an afternoon in Cody and do the drive up to Wapiti Ranger Station along Crandall Rd.
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