DCA JFK AMS DEL JAI BOM (and everything in between)
 

I recently had an opportunity to take a hastily-planned trip to India, Dubai, and South Africa. I'm back now, and have uploaded some of the pictures I snapped along the way, if anyone is interested. You can find them here.

I booked an open jaw ticket on Delta for the WAS - > DEL and JNB -> WAS segments, and ended up on Delta metal from DCA to JFK to AMS. Nothing particularly new or noteworthy on the DL flights. Landing at AMS early in the morning, I was looking forward to a hot shower before I boarded for the next segment (on KLM) to DEL. However, every KLM lounge I tried helpfully informed me that showers were reserved for Flying Blue platinums only. I was less than amused. I'd read, on this board, about some public showers in the middle of the concourse (near the chapel/meditation area), but I couldn't find it. By the time I was ready to give up and look for the hotel that supposedly rents showers, it was time to board. Not all that happy.

The AMS to DEL segment (again in J) went well, outside of the fact that they'd apparently lost my veg meal request. The attendants were genuine in their effort to find me a suitable replacement, and I appreciated that. I arrived in Delhi at something shortly past midnight.

After going through a process to buy a local SIM card that felt somewhat akin to a security clearance interview (passport, details, picture, etc.) I went out to try my luck with the prepaid taxi stand (I'd forgotten to arrange a hotel car). It was relatively straightforward, and the fare was certainly reasonable. In fact, the only awkward part was entirely my fault - I'd recalled reading that one shouldn't hand over the voucher (issued at the prepaid stand) until you were where you wanted to be, as that was how the driver gets paid). When we got into the cab at the airport, he asked for it. Being the unthinking tourist, I refused, telling him that I'd give it to him when we got there. His english was only slightly better than my nonexistent hindi, so we went around for a few minutes, with me entirely missing the point that he needed the voucher to get out of the parking lot. Doh.

(we eventually sorted that out)

Starting in Delhi, I did the "Golden Triangle" of Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur.

My time in Delhi was spent mostly in "Old Delhi", around the Chandni
Chowk and Jama Masid. Among the many things I learned is where all of
our old college textbooks went to die and that street cooked dosas are
most excellent. The hotel was the Maurya Sheraton, which was
quite nice, but sort of in the middle of nowhere. Its most recent
claim to fame was hosting Bill. I recently discovered that they billed me for my room, despite the fact that I gave up 14k SPG points for it. I'll have to sort that out.

With a car and driver, I then headed down to Agra. It was on this
trip that I learned that insane drivers and awful roads aren't
particular to Delhi, but rather part of the national character.
Speaking as someone who has traveled and driven all over the world,
there is no way I would ever ever get behind the wheel of a car in
India.

Agra is home to the Taj Mahal, which is not to be missed. I've never
come across a tourist attraction that so easily surpassed its hype.
It was breathtaking.

Speaking of hype (another part of the national character, I submit),
the rest of Agra lived up to its billing as a world capital for touts
and charlatans and rug sellers. Didn't particularly regret staying at
the Mughal Sheraton, rather than downtown. (Side note: for your
future planning purposes, international Sheratons are not the crap
hotels that US Sheratons are.)

On the way to Jaipur, and on the recommendation of a number of friends, I
stopped at Fatehpur Sikri. The once and brief capital of the mughal
empire, the palace was a very interesting manifestation of Emperor
Akbar's openness to the major faiths (tho' one wonders whether this
was the result or the cause of his having wives from each of them).
Driving in and out of here, I experienced the rather unexpected
phenomena of would-be guides actually jumping in front of the car to
get us to stop and hire them as a guide. You just ran down my car,
scaring me half to death, and now you want me to pay you to spend time
with me? Sure.

Many (many) hours later, I ended the day in Jaipur, the "pink city"
(the result of a questionable promotional hospitality effort that's lasted nearly
100 years now . . .). After congested Delhi, and hazy Agra, Jaipur
was literally a breath of fresh air (this despite many of the streets
being full of elephants). My guide here was a remarkably
overeducated fellow with a love for Jaipur that was infectious. He
was also curiously into astrology, which set off a rambling debate
that took place between seeing the sights of the Hawa Mahal (nifty),
Jal Mahal (it's good to be king - build the palace and then flood the
valley - just because you can!), and catching a glimpse of Bollywood
star Aishwarya Rai shortly after she filmed a segment nearby (an
excitement that was completely lost on me, I'm afraid). Home base in
Jaipur was Alsisar Haveli, which I recommend to anyone passing through
in the future. It's a very nicely converted heritage property. If
you're feeling spendy, stay at Rambaugh Palace. I spent my last
afternoon there, sitting under a lazily spinning fan on a terrace
overlooking the polo fields, martini in hand. Could have done that
for a week.

I left Jaipur for Mumbai on Jet Airways. Jet Airways, on this flight
at least, put most US domestic carriers to shame. Quick seating,
plenty of room, and a hot meal, all for a 90 minute flight at a
reasonable price. I was also particularly pleased with the fact that, at the airport, with only my name, flight number, and seat preference, my waiter was able to go get me a boarding pass.

Nothing in particular to say about BOM, other than the universal comment on the stench that hits you when you exit the airport. Hotel driver met me, not a terribly long drive into Colaba.

I wasn't in Mumbai long. Just enough to poke around a bit, checking
out Colaba, Chowpatty Beach, and the markets in the Fort and
Churchgate areas. One unexpected pleasure was getting into the High
Court, situated in a massive Victorian-era stone building complex
(where, according to the Lonely Planet book, one of the high-up
carvings is of a one-eyed monkey holding the scales of justice).
After assuring the 17 security guards that stopped me (only white guy
in the entire building) that I would not take any pictures, I found a
few interesting courtrooms, and listened to a contract dispute case,
an appeal of a zoning fine, and some criminal motions (by far the most
amusing)). On the way out, I got of a glimpse of the public defenders
office. It was straight out of Dickens. I am fairly sure that some
of the open case files in there involved prosecutions brought on
behalf of Queen Victoria.

After all this travel, Mumbai was the first place where I'd managed to
work up some blisters, so at the end of the day, I just wanted to sit
down and have a drink. Taking a friend's recommendation, I'd booked a
late table at Indigo. This is Indigo -
http://www.worldsbestbars.com/city/b...bay-mumbai.htm
Now, I give this link to point out that I'm not heading to some
shabeen in a basement. I get there, sit down, and order my standard.
Martini, grey goose, up with a twist. Very nice waitstaff whisks away
with my order. And a few minutes later another waiter comes up.
Turns out he's the bartender.

"You want a martini?"

Yes, grey goose, please.

"No no. Too expensive."

What?

"Grey goose. Too expensive for martini."

You're kidding, right?

"Stolichnya, instead."

Umm, no. Seriously. I don't care how much it is.

"Too expensive."

Dude. (I am embarassed at the use of the word dude, but I'm a little
surprised that I am having to fight to pay them too much money for a
drink) Are you really telling me you won't let me buy a grey goose
martini? Just make me a martini with grey goose. I do not care how
much it is.

He looks at me as if I just asked for the golden fleece to use as a napkin.

I get my martini. Properly made. It is all of $12.


~


The next day, I fly to Dubai. Highlights from there (one of the best
bar views in the world, construction sites creating a dystopian
anime-looking world, and underemployed russian hookers) and points
further in a future post. I should probably devote some time and
energy to making a living for a little while, now.