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A trip to Alaska
A trip to Alaska
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/wbwPZ7.jpg My trip last year was all about going west, way west, as far as Hawai’i. This year I set about pushing north, in Alaska. Inspiration for the trip came essentially from a TV show on the Discovery Channel, and from the reports of an acquaintance in Switzerland. So, if you read this, ‘tis your travels I was inspired by. Planning and booking started around six months out, with the whole itinerary built around the single unmovable and inflexible dates: the AMHS ferry’s departure from Kodiak and arrival at Dutch Harbor. The whole itinerary initially looked like this: Positioning flight home-Panama City, Copa Airlines Y Flight Panama City-Fort Lauderdale, Copa Airlines Y A couple of days in South Florida Flight Fort Lauderdale-Chicago-Fairbanks, UA Y+ Overnight in Fairbanks Drive to Denali National Park Denali National Park Return drive to Fairbanks Flight Fairbanks-Anchorage, AS Y Two nights in Anchorage Flight Anchorage-Kodiak, AS Y Two nights in Kodiak Kodiak-Unalaska, by sea, Alaska Marine Highway System Two nights in Dutch Harbor/Unalaska Flight Dutch Harbor-Anchorage, Aleutian Airways Y Two nights in Anchorage Flight Anchorage-Utqiaġvik, AS Y One night in Utqiaġvik Flight Utqiaġvik-Atqasuk-Wainwright-Utqiaġvik, Wright Air Service Y Flight Utqiaġvik-Anchorage, AS Y Overnight in Anchorage Red-eye flight Anchorage-Chicago, UA F Two nights in Chicago Flight Chicago-Panama City, Copa Airlines C Copa Club Lounge at PTY Flight Panama City-home, Copa Airlines Y The long distance portion of the trip: https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...924/9oK7dk.jpg The segments within Alaska: https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...924/5lN50j.jpg Maps generated by GreatCircle Mapper – copyright © Karl L. Swartz I do not travel frequently enough to accrue sufficient miles on any airline alliance nor any hotel group, so there were no point accounts to draw from for any of the flights and hotel stays, which were all paid out of pocket. Accommodations were researched and booked by myself online about 6 months out as I mentioned, and flights were booked through my travel agent. I usually do the research, let the agency know exactly what I want, and let them deal with the airlines. This way I don’t have to worry about refunds - as we shall see during the course of this trip - and can make a single payment, regardless of how many separate airlines and tickets are involved. |
Traveling in times of prohibition
About a month before the planned start of the trip the guys that call the shots in Panama said something the powers that be at home didn’t take too well, so the locals threw a tantrum and retaliated by prohibiting all flights between SOT and PTY. Flights to and from Peru and the Dominican Republic met a similar fate. High politics… Since I wasn’t going to lose all those carefully planned segments from PTY onwards and up to the return to PTY as well as the booked and largely paid accommodation over a temper tantrum, I had to resort to plan B. Copa Airlines sent a message notifying that the fare for the segments home-PTY-home would be reimbursed (the refund was credited in late October), so instead I booked a return ticket home-BOG-PTY on Avianca in Y. In order to ensure a seamless transition to the main part of the itinerary, I had to leave a day earlier than planned and spend a night in Panama City on the outbound, and spend a night at BOG to connect from one flight arriving at midnight to the next one leaving at 7:14 the next morning on the return. The beginning and end of the itinerary would now look like this: Positioning flight home-Bogotá, Avianca Y Flight Bogotá-Panama City, Avianca Y Overnight in Panama City Flight Panama City-Fort Lauderdale, Copa Airlines Y … Flight Chicago-Panama City, Copa Airlines C Copa Club Lounge at PTY Flight Panama City-Bogotá, Avianca Y Bivouac at BOG Flight Bogotá-home, Avianca Y[/c] The final long distance portion of the trip https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...924/l3HERf.jpg Map generated by GreatCircle Mapper – copyright © Karl L. Swartz Some may wonder why not take a direct flight from Somewhere Out There to the U.S. and save yourself all that trouble? Well, that’s because there is another layer of prohibition preventing that. Five years ago the U.S. Department of Transportation ordered the suspension of all commercial passenger and cargo flights between the two countries over security concerns. So that’s that. |
Let the trip begin
Ready for departure Somewhere Out There https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/TlZtRN.jpg The positioning flight to BOG was totally uneventful. After emerging from chapter 11 proceedings, Avianca have changed their business model significantly, lowering their standards for domestic and regional service from those of a full service legacy carrier (among the world’s oldest!) to that of an LCC or even LLCC. Tighter legroom, no free snacks or beverages, not even water, are the new norm. There are few J class rows at the front of the bus, but they strongly resemble Euro Business, with just the middle seat blocked off. Upon arrival at BOG I spotted an A320 in AV’s 1960’s retro livery at a nearby gate. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/oRzpHB.jpg Our flight had parked on a remote stand, so it took a lengthy bus ride to get to the terminal. Once there, in the transit security control, my belongings were selected for secondary screening, the only instance during the entire trip. Back airside I went looking for the gate to my connecting flight, which was changed just as I was on my way to the originally posted gate and had me go back all the way to the opposite end of the concourse. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/QSzUXz.jpg The new gate was also a bus gate. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/hJS8Gl.jpg After giving us a comprehensive bus tour of the apron, we finally reached the remote stand where our A320neo had only recently arrived. Passengers from the previous flight were still disembarking, three busloads of them. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/UG6x28.jpg Meanwhile, our driver was in frantic radio contact with his dispatcher to clarify whether we should return to the terminal or not. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/j2Lk3V.jpg In the end the instruction was to stay put right there and so we waited on the bus for 20 minutes until all previous passengers were on their way to the terminal and then all the time the cleaning squad needed to prepare the cabin for the next flight. Some brake cooling on a neighboring plane. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/qbUtMY.jpg Bogota BOG – Panama City PTY Avianca AV 060 STD: 15:00 / ATD: 15:35 STA: 16:45 / ATA: 16:59 A320N HK-5366 Seat 30A Eventually we were allowed to board and I found my seat towards the back of the bus. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/FTIoAK.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/m9jQsI.jpg So, is it Avianca with a capital A or avianca with a lowercase a? https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/0pa0Yr.jpg On the way to the runway we passed by another one of AV’s special livery jets. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/xAEn0F.jpg The flight was uneventful, only interspersed with some turbulence from the storm clouds on the way to Panama City. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/W8sGSr.jpg I pondered whether to get something from the BOB offerings, but as I just had something to eat in the terminal there was no business from me today for the crew. Among the uniform elements the cabin crew can choose from nowadays are white sneakers. I guess this is a very comfortable option for the flight attendants on a long working day and is also in line with the LCC model AV is following now. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/Dh3s5D.jpg Immigration and customs at PTY were a breeze and I soon was at the pick-up point for the Crowne Plaza hotel’s shuttle. This bus unfortunately only runs once an hour so if you arrive at the pick-up point shortly after it left, the wait until the next round is long. I had to wait for about 20 minutes. After dinner with a friend and former colleague and sleeping in the morning after, I was ready for the continuation of the trip. The view from the hotel room to the swept roof of PTY’s new Terminal 2 and the older Terminal 1. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/YCn1Rh.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/CZczx0.jpg I had breakfast at the hotel, packed up and then took the 10 a.m. shuttle to the terminal for my 12:03 departure. |
A delay in 20 minute increments
Check-in at the kiosk did not work for me, probably because I was travelling to the US and a document check was required. Anyway, I was seen to immediately at the counter and later at passport control and security I didn’t encounter any delays either. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/DTxr5o.jpg Still some “Coming soon” signs… https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/kcMZ2S.jpg I’ve seldom seen the terminal this empty. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/XuTXBR.jpg Panama City PTY – Fort Lauderdale FLL Copa Airlines CM 265 STD: 12:03 / ATD: 12:03, then 14:18 STA: 16:16 / ATA: 18:48 B738 HP-1526CMP Seat 29F Obligatory legroom shot on this sold out flight. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/j0UWMR.jpg Push-back was bang on time at 12:03, but after taxiing halfway to the runway the plane stopped. A rainstorm was fast approaching the airport area and at first we thought that this was the reason for our halt. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/Hx6ZdF.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/rsHOTz.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/CMkPq9.jpg 12:25: The cockpit crew came on the P/A to inform that they were having an issue with one of the communication instruments, and promised to revert within the next 10-15 minutes. 12:50: “We will be returning to a gate in 5-10 minutes to have the problem fixed”, i.e. the comm device replaced. Meanwhile, the cabin crew did a service run offering cheese snacks and beverages. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/51PMx7.jpg At 12:58 we were at a gate again. 13:35: “The problem has been solved but now the plane has to be refueled and the electrical activity in the area is preventing any operations”. Refueling under a downpour. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/OFnSj3.jpg 14:15: “It will be 10 more minutes until departure”. Surprisingly, just 3 minutes later we were actually being pushed back from the gate, taking off at 14:28. IFE without earphones… https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/wWkZhU.jpg …and more storm clouds along the way. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/304Mkz.jpg The cabin crew outdid themselves and offered another round of snacks and beverages, even a different snack than a couple of hours earlier while still on the ground. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/IhzZFf.jpg The island of Marathon, one of the Florida Keys. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/jOlhH2.jpg At around 6 p.m. the plane turned left, out to the Gulf of Mexico, instead of right towards Fort Lauderdale. Outside massive storm clouds could be seen and soon enough the cockpit crew informed that we should be flying a holding pattern for 20-25 minutes due to severe weather at FLL, though we were circling in a relatively sunny area. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/DmFKNa.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/TmcU1k.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...922/hvYmHk.jpg To me it seemed as if we had flown halfway out to the Gulf but checking the flight track it turned out to be just a bit. Eventually we made it to the destination, landing 2:30 hours late. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/Nvt8If.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/6eXVjp.jpg Just like last year, FLL turned out to be an excellent port of entry. Even though I was seated way back on the plane, by the time I reached immigration there was no line at all and I wasn’t even asked any questions. That’s a first! |
Great work. Excellent start. Looking forward to reading along. Never flown COPA - looks better than UA!
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Now to the real trip
With the errands I had to run in South Florida done it was time to actually fly to Alaska. The airport didn’t feel too crowded on this late Wednesday morning and both check-in and TSA were a breeze. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/tMqFsp.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/9UoJVu.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/2ZzPaz.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/27FiJV.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/Aodfl1.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/Edk55L.jpg Fort Lauderdale FLL – Chicago ORD United Airlines UA 1755 STD: 12:25 / ATD: 12:22 STA: 14:50 / ATA: 14:22 B39M N47569 Seat 8F https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/dtTUPm.jpg Someone vented their wrath on the poor safety card. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/oXOTUC.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/0IHaP7.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/BNYiKU.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/iZpU7A.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/Ls6bbV.jpg Descending over Indiana towards ORD. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/MurmHY.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/Z5nGeT.jpg Gorgeous view of downtown Chicago. Hopefully the weather is as good in a few weeks when I’ll be back. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/duRJmT.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/4xcZs6.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/D8kAwE.jpg A loop around DuPage airport west of Chicago… https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/x2Z6Ax.jpg …and landing in ORD nearly half an hour early. Since the airport is a massive construction site, it took us more than 20 minutes to reach the gate, but we were still early. According to the signage, it was about 20 minutes’ walking time to get from my arrival gate to that of my connecting flight to Fairbanks. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/xjYyT1.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/xMMJ1b.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/qLAmQv.jpg Chicago ORD – Fairbanks FAI United Airlines UA 2023 STD: 16:20 / ATD: 16:30 STA: 19:53 / ATA: 20:04 B38M N17347 Seat 7F https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/fWQ8Zn.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/Gg9sNZ.jpg The cabin crew on this flight was especially cheerful, but the purser treating all passengers as “my friends” and congratulating them on “an amazing boarding process” was a bit over-the-top. Anyways, after that amazing boarding process we were soon on our way to… ? https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/rGoIHM.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/EXhsH1.jpg Getting closer to our destination there were nice views of the Rocky Mountains in the late afternoon light. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/alS1UK.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/Dw9jQr.jpg We landed in FAI within the range of what is considered as on time and after getting my rental car I went off to the hotel I had booked for the night. The room was clean, warm and spacious, and the reviews I read beforehand were also not bad, although on my way to the hotel and later in the trip I heard some remarks that should have raised a few red flags. Check-in was off-premises at another location. As I did not find it right away, I asked around and one person replied, “Ah, that sh**ty hotel! It’s over there”. I also learned that the place had made it into the newspaper a few times, always for the wrong reasons, but I felt safe and had a good night’s rest after a long traveling day. |
Can we get to the Alaska part already? Yes, here it comes - Denali National Park
The next morning, I packed up, had breakfast in town and then drove south towards Denali National Park. The road was in very good condition and I did not encounter much traffic. Sometimes 5 or 10 minutes would go by without any vehicle coming from the opposite direction. Fall colors were already showing here and there. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/xhuXpm.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/dbVj9T.jpg After about 2 hours I reached my destination, the Aurora Denali Lodge in Healy, close to the park entrance. The room was fitted with a small fridge, a microwave oven and a coffee machine. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/mbMVfZ.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/OIqpUA.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/1Q3A6F.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/zq4Kno.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/KaLyam.jpg As the hotel doesn’t offer breakfast service per se, they provide a small plate with yoghurt, a fruit, a hardboiled egg, a granola bar and a juice drink, which is left in the fridge every evening. I found this to be a nice gesture; at least you don’t have to leave the place with an empty stomach in the morning. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/WTiZ4T.jpg Once settled in, I went off to the park, which was still a few miles further south. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/7Hxwbl.jpg As the park road is only accessible to private vehicles for the first 15 miles or so, my first order of business was heading to the park headquarters to secure a ticket for a bus ride further inwards the next day. Space was available only from 1:00 p.m. onwards, but since I was just a party of one it was no problem to get a ticket for that time slot. After that I went to see the sledge dogs at the park’s kennel. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/dSLhUc.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/tl9Bff.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/YLbnlY.jpg Funny that one of them is named Nucha; our last family dog was named Nacha. There is a complete show with the dogs pulling a sledge and all, but this would certainly be more impressive in winter when there is actually snow. After the dog exhibition I took the car and went as far into the park as private cars are allowed. The fall colors had already set in and provided an amazing backdrop, but Denali/Mt. McKinley remained hidden in the low clouds. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/sNvT2B.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/R1C7nV.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/YiZ8eH.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/OHGBy9.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/aM2rev.jpg The following morning, with improving weather and the bus tour starting only in the early afternoon, I ventured into the park again and lo and behold, Denali – “The Tall one” - was cloud-free for a few moments. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/oQ1fj7.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/cuV3pA.jpg At the end of the road accessible to the general public, by the bridge crossing the Savage River, is a curious rock formation, the Savage Rock, which to some – with a generous dose of imagination – resembles a face. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/QPTB6g.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/8Btpjn.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/zo8hhq.jpg From there I headed back at a leisurely pace towards the bus depot to catch the green transit bus for my afternoon tour, which would last about four hours, roadside and restroom stops included. Though they resemble school buses, these offer a legroom more suitable for adults and are not too uncomfortable to ride on. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/l6vol3.jpg In several instances our driver would stop and point out wildlife on the roadside or at a certain distance. We were lucky enough to see a willow ptarmigan, several Dall sheep, and a grizzly bear. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/FhEk4I.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/sXGnHq.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/jIHMS5.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/1xw7CR.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/SvEnP1.jpg The furthest the transit bus would go was the Toklat River East Fork, where we had about 20 minutes until heading back. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/jhZSLa.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/7z0RIf.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/QQaDsT.jpg On the return trip we were also treated to a brief view of a moose cow, though I was sat on the wrong side of the bus and did only get a wee glimpse. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/LG5NKW.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/YXKuF0.jpg That makes sightings of three of Denali’s “Big Five“: moose, caribou, Dall sheep, grizzly bears, and wolves. Not bad at all. And who knows how many caribou and wolves saw us without us noticing them?! Close to the park headquarters and bus depot, already on the accessible road, we passed a larger group of cars parked roadside and several people carrying cameras with lenses longer than my forearm, staring intensely into the forest. Once at the buses’ point of departure, I took my car and drove the few miles back into the park to where the group had gathered. It turned out that they had spotted a couple of moose bulls, but these had lain down in the brush to ruminate. I waited for about half an hour and even got to (barely) see the antlers of one of the animals with my binoculars, but their digestion went on and on and they showed no intention to get up and showcase themselves in their entire glory. Tough luck! All in all I have to consider myself very lucky though in having seen some of the signature wildlife in the park and in having been blessed with several hours of sunshine during my visit. |
On to Anchorage
Which way? https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/KGwIja.jpg No, not right, left! Back to Fairbanks to return the car and take a flight to ANC. Now that it wasn’t important for me anymore, the weather in the park area deteriorated considerably and it was raining cats and dogs. The return drive took a bit longer than on the way down due to the rain, but I arrived at Fairbanks around the time I guessed I would. In order to have that out of the way, I passed by the airport to check in for my flight and be able to get back there just shortly before the flight’s departure. Because I was set to meet up with legendary trip reporter Seat 2A for an early lunch. It was a real pleasure meeting you. Thanks again for the invite and the good exchange of travel stories! https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/TH087x.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/XGZnYT.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/v76MZM.jpg The security control at this airport was the most inefficient I have experienced so far, but in the end I was through in time for the flight’s departure Fairbanks FAI – Anchorage ANC Alaska Airlines AS 2373 STD: 14:40 / ATD: 14:30 STA: 15:44 / ATA: 15:23 E75L N648QX Seat 7F https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/r7qZyb.jpg The passenger load was very light and most all of the seats around me remained empty. That UA purser from the other day would have congratulated us “friends” again for an amazing boarding process… https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/CXwUsh.jpg After some interesting sightings on the way to the active runway we were off and crossing the Tanana River for the 45 minute hop to Anchorage. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/8mImSO.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/f7eIB2.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/IWWder.jpg The flight was quite short, yet the cabin crew offered beverages. We cruised at FL250 for a mere 5 minutes before descent commenced. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/WXkhwZ.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/xez3mM.jpg The highlight of the flight was undoubtedly the sight of Denali / Mt. McKinley rising above a carpet of clouds. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/wScle9.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/B3Ramx.jpg In Anchorage I stayed in a hotel near Merrill Field. As the weather was not great again, I used the free day between travels to do laundry and otherwise laze around, as it was a Sunday anyway. The Chugach Mountains were barely visible. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/vftBOQ.jpg |
That looks like quite a trip. Thanks for taking the time and effort to do the Trip Report and post pictures. I'm looking forward to the rest.
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What a fantastic time of year to be there. Great pictures!
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Beautiful pictures in Denali Park.
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Originally Posted by eightblack
(Post 36639123)
Great work. Excellent start. Looking forward to reading along. Never flown COPA - looks better than UA!
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Originally Posted by Loose Cannon
(Post 36639401)
That looks like quite a trip. Thanks for taking the time and effort to do the Trip Report and post pictures. I'm looking forward to the rest.
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Originally Posted by LAX2Anywhere
(Post 36639440)
What a fantastic time of year to be there.
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Originally Posted by zip10001
(Post 36639941)
Beautiful pictures in Denali Park.
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