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Old Nov 30, 2022, 7:09 pm
  #1  
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Three Weeks in South Africa via KLM and Air France business class



Introduction

It's been a few years since my last trip report, mostly due to pure laziness. We moved across the world to live in Canada and after two years of Covid-19, it's time for us to go back to South Africa to visit some of those things dear to us, and to catch up with family and friends.

1. Calgary to Amsterdam via KLM business class
2. A day in Amsterdam
3. Amsterdam to Johannesburg via KLM business class
4. Jaci's Sabi House - Part I: Journey & Lodge
5. Jaci's Sabi House - Part II: Wildlife

6. A week in Cape Town
7. Johannesburg to Paris via Air France business class
8. Amsterdam to Calgary via KLM business class

1. Calgary to Amsterdam via KLM business class

Air travel in Canada has been nightmarish for the past two years, and I daresay a crime against humanity. Air Canada, surely the world's worst airline, has been particularly egregious and has cancelled or altered 100% of our flights over this time period. They have messed us around to such an extent that we decided to boycott them and switch to Westjet, our only real regional alternative who remain superior, for now. It's difficult to imagine how Air Canada's conduct could be legal, as they are in the Canadian news almost weekly and responsible for people missing vacations, weddings, funerals and all manner of engagements, but their standard drone-like reply seems to buy them a pass time and again.

With that in mind, Westjet experienced a massive computer outage the day before we were destined to fly to Calgary and hundreds of their flights were grounded for two days. By some miracle, our flight was the first one to take off to Calgary unimpeded and we boarded and flew seamlessly in our little Dash-8 without problems. Westjet and KLM did inconvenience us at stages but more on that later!

After a small layover we boarded our KLM A330-200 for our first leg to Amsterdam. A deluge of wheelchair bound people preceded our boarding to such a degree that when we landed they asked if only people who are truly incapable of walking would ask for assistance as Amsterdam did not have so many attendants for the task. Miraculously, some of these supposedly less abled people were revitalized and started walking to their next flights after they were told the delay could lead to a missed connection.



With a 2-2-2 configuration the cabin is a bit dated to what could be offered, but they are busy rolling out a more modern fleet with direct aisle access for their business class patrons. The seat is comfortable with a full recline, but the foot space can feel a little narrow at times. Standard amenities are provided like a pillow, blanket and amenity kit with the usual gifts like toiletries, socks and an eye mask.



With a glass of champagne on board, we waited and waited the Captain said that we were waiting for ground crew to be available to load the plane and that it would be about twenty minutes before we could leave. Part of the airline nightmare stems from the fact that there is a massive shortage of workers of any kind in all industries in Canada - sometimes there aren't enough servers in a restaurant, or just one teller in a bank. It's a complex story and outside the scope of this trip report but it can be horribly frustrating. After 45 minutes we started our taxi to the deicing area where we were covered in green goop, as it was well below freezing outside. Unfortunately, there was also a deicing staff shortage so we waited for an hour there too. Eventually the Captain came on and said 'you'd think a country covered in snow would have figured out how to streamline this process by now'. Ouch. Almost two hours later we reached the runway and without exaggeration I can tell you that I watched an entire movie on the ground, namely peace by chocolate. The takeoff was smooth and I was glad to escape Canadian air travel for a few weeks on this nine hour flight.



After climbing for a while the pleasant crew sprang into action and delivered more champagne, water and nuts (unfortunately not warmed). Instead of nuts you could also have their cheese platter which I had on other legs and was pretty good.



It was our first flight on KLM and we loved the way they presented everything with neat decorative trays and glasses, delft china, and engraved cutlery. It was very reminiscent of past times, though to be honest I was not alive in those times and can only base it on the new Downton Abbey movie that I'd started to watch.



The first course was a lobster, prawn and salmon sashimi with hearts of palm salad, pineapple vinaigrette and mango miso sauce which was quite tasty.



This was followed by the tasting of delicacies which included butter chicken with aloo capsicum, gobi matar masala, basmati rice with coriander and red chili - and of course a deep red merlot to enjoy it with. Other menu options included veggie meatballs and tortellini cheese and butternut squash. It was all very delicious and the cabin crew were always willing to donate another bread roll or top up the wine. I decided to hold off a little after I couldn't discern between Lord and Lady Grantham.



By now I was starting to get quite full but I still ordered the dessert which was a a petit grand dessert of chocolate and fruit petit fours, macaron, kiwi and whipped cream. Scrumptious and even better with a glass of port. There was no way I could eat a cheese platter after this and I settled down for some restless sleep for a few hours until we reached the coast of Scotland on this mostly smooth flight. I did find the cabin quite hot and I took off my jersey, socks and blanket to get some sleep.



At 90 minutes out the crew came round to serve various types of breakfast but I was still full from dinner and declined. I did accept a good cup of coffee though which did the trick.



As we started our descent the crew came past with the signature KLM delft houses and we started our collection. It's a small gesture that has remained unique to KLM and goes quite a long way. I didn't know that the houses are filled with a tot of liquor with a wax seal, so that was indeed a surprise. We made sure to document which numbers we collected so we didn't get duplicates later.





In the morning hours we touched down in sunny Amsterdam after a great flight. It was our first KLM flight and was quite impressive and memorable.
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Last edited by SAtraveller; Dec 22, 2022 at 12:23 pm
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Old Dec 1, 2022, 9:43 am
  #2  
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2. A day in Amsterdam

Due to the unreliability of flights exiting Canada, we decided to add a buffer day in Amsterdam to make sure we didn't miss our connector to Johannesburg. Luckily we did as our flight from Calgary landed two hours late and we would have missed our day flight to South Africa.

We've never been to Schiphol before and couldn't believe how beautiful it was. There were tons of restaurants and shops, and great places for travelers to relax before their next flight.

After passing through customs we made our way to the taxi area and were surprised to be placed in a beautiful Tesla Model X that took us into Amsterdam to the Nhow Hotel.



I have to admit that apart from coming across the good rate for the hotel, I really wanted to stay in such an interesting building. The areas with corners also have glass bottomed floors for those not afraid of heights.


Our Room

With a comfortable room in the upper triangle section of the building we had a quick nap so we could enjoy our evening out. The hotel is not very central but luckily it is located right next to a metro/train station that took us directly downtown. We also discovered that there was a handy train that went straight to Schiphol, and we used that the next morning instead of a taxi.


The canals and rivers of Amsterdam









We really enjoyed the rubber ducky store but didn't buy anything or start a collection.


The candy shops in Amsterdam are insane.


The royal palace (but the King doesn't live here)



With sunset approaching we remembered that we have good friends in Rotterdam and texted them to ask if they wanted to meet up. They told us they could meet us at 7pm at the train station, so we settled down for a coffee at a side café while we waited for them.







After meeting up with our friends we decided to go for dinner where we could catch up on the last 5-years worth of news. After searching for a popular pasta restaurant we were dismayed to see that they were full, and so the search continued. Eventually we found a little bistro and started drinking beer after beer, with a hamburger thrown in for nourishment. They told us about the joys and challenges of living in Holland and it was interesting to hear how each country has pros and cons.


Tasty burger

Eventually the night got late and we went for a quick walk through the red light district, which was an experience. We had a 10am flight the next morning so we took the metro back home and fell asleep as soon as our heads hit the pillow.
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Old Dec 1, 2022, 10:12 am
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3. Amsterdam to Johannesburg via KLM business class

The next morning we were back at Schiphol and quickly entered the priority lane for security. Our maple syrup gifts got us pulled aside for a search but once they realized what they were they let us through with a chuckle.

Eventually we found the The Crown Lounge... what a treat! This is proper business class lounge if you don't mind me saying. It is massive, and although it got busy later in the day - when we arrived it was silent and almost exclusively available to us. Apart from ample sitting space, it has a large dining area, and a variety of sitting areas. The top floor is a bar that provides free sparkling wine and other alcohols, and fancier drinks can be purchased for a fee. The ground floor has shower facilities that can be booked, luggage lockers and sleep pods that can be booked for 2-5 hours for a fee. There is also an area with KLM agents to assist with ticket problems. Overall we were really impressed with this lounge!



Glass wall with some of the delft miniatures that can be collected.


Some of the lounge before it got busy.

After spending a few hours there we headed off to our gate and boarded our lovely 777-300 that would take us to Johannesburg. The flight to Johannesburg takes off daily at around 10am and takes 10 hours before landing at approximately 11pm.



With a veteran ladies' cabin crew we were welcomed and provided with some early morning champagne. After settling in we started our taxi on time.


Caught our reflection







After waiting behind a 747-400 cargo plane, the Queen of the Skies took off with us a minute or two behind her.





Once at cruising height the crew sprang into action. It was a little bumpy over France but nothing that threatened our wine glasses.


This time I went for the cheese


Pan fried red bass in a bell pepper blanc sauce, mash of truffle potato and ravioli filled with Reypenaar cheese. Although this looked like an awful microwave meal it was actually very tasty, especially along side the South African chenin blanc.


Petit grand dessert of cappuccino ganache, caramel crumb cake and sticky toffee tartlet.

Day flights over Africa can be a real treat. After crossing the Med, you find yourself staring at the vast sandy beauty of the Sahara that goes on for hours. This transforms to the lush green jungles over central Africa as well as the massive thunderstorms that you fly around while trying to evade the towering clouds that reach well above your cruising altitude.




The beautiful Sahara desert

At 90 minutes out we were served a black angus hamburger with mature cheese, pickled sauce and fried onions on a brioche roll, with a French molten chocolate cake for dessert. Delicious!



Soon we descended to Johannesburg and completed yet another successful KLM flight with a great crew.
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Old Dec 2, 2022, 7:53 am
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Great report and entertaining narrative. KLM food and service looks pretty decent. As an ex-Canadian, I got a good laugh on your opening. I've pretty much boycotted that miserable excuse for an airline going on 50 years now.

Originally Posted by SAtraveller
Air travel in Canada has been nightmarish for the past two years, and I daresay a crime against humanity. Air Canada, surely the world's worst airline, has been particularly egregious and has cancelled or altered 100% of our flights over this time period. They have messed us around to such an extent that we decided to boycott them and switch to Westjet, our only real regional alternative who remain superior, for now. It's difficult to imagine how Air Canada's conduct could be legal, as they are in the Canadian news almost weekly and responsible for people missing vacations, weddings, funerals and all manner of engagements....
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Old Dec 2, 2022, 8:59 am
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Looks great. We have NBO-AMS-ATL in J next month with a (planned) 10 hour daytime layover in AMS so we can take our (grown) kids to the Anne Frank House and a couple of other quick tourist sights. Food looks better than I would expect on KLM. Any issue with taking the mini Delft houses full of gin back through security in AMS?
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Old Dec 2, 2022, 12:52 pm
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Originally Posted by pjs
Looks great. We have NBO-AMS-ATL in J next month with a (planned) 10 hour daytime layover in AMS so we can take our (grown) kids to the Anne Frank House and a couple of other quick tourist sights. Food looks better than I would expect on KLM. Any issue with taking the mini Delft houses full of gin back through security in AMS?
You can ask the crew to put them in a plastic zipbag. Therefore no issues at security. Be reminded that you need to reserve the Anne Frank House in advance to guarantee access.
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Old Dec 2, 2022, 1:32 pm
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Originally Posted by lloydje33
You can ask the crew to put them in a plastic zipbag. Therefore no issues at security. Be reminded that you need to reserve the Anne Frank House in advance to guarantee access.
Yes - it's on my calendar thanks!
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Old Dec 3, 2022, 5:50 pm
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Originally Posted by SFO777
Great report and entertaining narrative. KLM food and service looks pretty decent. As an ex-Canadian, I got a good laugh on your opening. I've pretty much boycotted that miserable excuse for an airline going on 50 years now.
Thanks SFO777 for the comments. The food was pretty good on KLM - I'd say as one would expect with business class. I've really tried with Air Canada but it almost feels personal now, and I'm done with them. I wish they would go under and start again.

Originally Posted by pjs
Looks great. We have NBO-AMS-ATL in J next month with a (planned) 10 hour daytime layover in AMS so we can take our (grown) kids to the Anne Frank House and a couple of other quick tourist sights. Food looks better than I would expect on KLM. Any issue with taking the mini Delft houses full of gin back through security in AMS?
Thanks pjs, the food was pretty good and they're always happy to give you more bread, wine and chocolate until you feel full. I see your delft house question was answered by another poster, but we didn't conceal the houses in any way and had no problems going through security with them.

Originally Posted by lloydje33
You can ask the crew to put them in a plastic zipbag. Therefore no issues at security. Be reminded that you need to reserve the Anne Frank House in advance to guarantee access.
I didn't know that the Anne Frank house was one of them... very interesting. Also, you can switch out any house you pick at the Crown Lounge in Amsterdam, so one could do that too.
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Old Dec 3, 2022, 6:23 pm
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Originally Posted by SAtraveller
Thanks SFO777 for the comments. The food was pretty good on KLM - I'd say as one would expect with business class. I've really tried with Air Canada but it almost feels personal now, and I'm done with them. I wish they would go under and start again.



Thanks pjs, the food was pretty good and they're always happy to give you more bread, wine and chocolate until you feel full. I see your delft house question was answered by another poster, but we didn't conceal the houses in any way and had no problems going through security with them.



I didn't know that the Anne Frank house was one of them... very interesting. Also, you can switch out any house you pick at the Crown Lounge in Amsterdam, so one could do that too.
No I’m planning to visit the real Anne Frank House and he was telling me to make sure I reserve tickets in advance.
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Old Dec 4, 2022, 9:20 am
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Originally Posted by pjs
No I’m planning to visit the real Anne Frank House and he was telling me to make sure I reserve tickets in advance.
Oh interesting, because I discovered that KLM house #47 is Anne Frank's house and is also highly in demand.
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Old Dec 4, 2022, 10:09 am
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4. Jaci's Sabi House - Part I: Journey & Lodge

The flight from Amsterdam lands quite late at night so we slept over at nearby relatives. The next morning we were off to Jaci's Sabi House which is a private game lodge adjacent to the Kruger National Park. The Kruger Park has been part of the majority of my life and we used to go for a few days at least once a year. We're happy living in Canada but I do miss the African wildlife so much. The lodging in the Kruger Park camps is great for any purpose but its solidly 2* and apparently not being maintained very well. We also don't really have time to drive around looking for wildlife like in the old days, so a private lodge where you make it someone else's problem to find animals and feed you sounded like a good answer.

After hiring a practical yet unsightly minibus we picked up my folks, my brother and his girlfriend and we were off for a week. The drive take about 6 hours which is not far if you're Canadian, but South Africans sometimes insist on dividing this journey due to its length. Therefore we spend the night in Dullstroom at the gorgeous estate called Walkerson's. The lodge has a series of quaint woodfire houses surrounding small lakes. Unfortunately there was a lot of thick mist present and it took us even longer to get there and diminished our views a bit.


Misty views


The houses have beautiful super-king sized beds, a lounge, fireplace and bathroom.


I've only ever slept with a wood fire once and it was a dreadful experience because the wood hisses and cracks all night. So I've learned my lesson and I made sure this guy had settled by midnight when we went to sleep.

That night we started to feel the effects of jetlag so we headed off for an early dinner with the family. The food was really good although we did have a guy in shorts and a T-shirt having a business argument on his phone behind us while his elegantly dressed wife picked at her salad.







After saying our goodnights we headed off to bed and started our melatonin dosing to shift our schedule 10 hours forward to our next time zone. We also started our malaria medication. Malaria in South Africa is common around the Kruger Park and can be deadly so we always take prophylaxis. The newer pills have no side effects like they used to, like a bad taste or vivid dreams. Of course my parents said they weren't going to take any pills because 'nothing can happen' which is my father's standard reply to any risk averse behavior he might be engaging in. I've long since stopped trying to change his mind - I just get angry and also make no progress, and he is an adult and can make his own decisions - even bad ones.

There was an unwelcome guest in front of our door so we called reception and they came find him a new home.


Go away

Early the next morning we completed the journey and arrived outside the game reserve where we paid all the respective fees. We started our 45 minute drive to the camp in our minibus and parked it inside where it would rest for the next week undisturbed. I was really shocked at how the roads in South Africa have deteriorated. Around the main cities the roads are mostly acceptable, but once you're a few hours out the roads look like they've been cluster bombed, and we had to avert potholes for several hours that would have seriously damaged or disabled our car.

My parents did a lot of research on which lodge to visit for our purposes. You can find any lodge for your needs just outside the Kruger Park but the vast majority of them are fabulously luxurious and cater to tourists who want a safari experience and high end accommodation. You can get a high quality experience for a few thousand dollars for a week - or more than twenty times that depending on your needs.


Lounge with sun deck (at night)


Lounge with library


Pool

Jaci's Sabi House turned out to be a good answer for our family as it has three houses that can host 2 people each - so a camp for 6 people. It's 5* but not very over the top and quite affordable.

The lodge has a nice common area that includes a sitting area, a bar and a lounge that overlooks a grassy terrain. Beyond the electric fencing that keeps animals out, there is a watering hole that is frequented by all manner of creatures, but mostly elephants and hippos.

There were two adjacent rooms a few minutes away that we took, with my brother and his girlfriend next door. We gave my parents the main bedroom which was attached to the common area lounge - it was a little more spacious and also included a bath (which they didn't use). It also prevented them from walking too far or falling at night. Our room came with a very comfortable bed, an en-suite bathroom, and a patio with chairs if you wanted to watch the watering hole. There was a fan and A/C, though luckily it wasn't very warm while we were there and we could rely solely on the fan.


Our Room


Night time turn down with chocolates

The staff at the lodge are magnificent, and just the friendliest bunch. There is a manager who runs a tight ship, and under her are guides, two chefs and cleaners. Each day they wake you at 5am and at 5:30am after some coffee and a cookie you go out for your first game drive. The early mornings are the best time to see anything good as animals don't like the heat and will generally hide during it. At about 7:30am you stop somewhere for coffee and snacks, and then return at 09:30 for a big brunch. After brunch they leave you to enjoy the lodge until 3:30pm when it cools down again and the animals re-emerge. You have tea and cake in the camp and then head out again. You stop for sundowners and snacks at 6pm and then return to the camp at 7:30pm. A big dinner follows at 8pm and you go to bed after a bit of revelry. So you definitely don't starve!


Dinner setting


Some breakfast pickings


Rack of Lamb


Ice-cream and cake

On the last evening they created a massive fire pit and placed tables around it and made us several delicacies to feast on. That was incredibly special and a wonderful end to the week. I can't recommend Jaci's Sabi House highly enough - it was fantastic!



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Old Dec 6, 2022, 10:18 pm
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5. Jaci's Sabi House - Part II: Wildlife

Of course the real reason why we're there is to enjoy the amazing African wildlife.



Twice a day we would get aboard the open-air truck that would go searching for animals. While the drivers did have prodigious tracking skills that often found wildlife for us, they also communicated with other trucks if they found some of the more impressive creatures. The reserve doesn't allow more than three cars to converge on a big sighting, so sometimes you have to time your arrival. The amazing thing though, and even I'm not used to this, was that the trucks follow the animals into the bush while evading larger trees and riding right over smaller ones. Very surreal, but incredible to follow a leopard or elephant while they walk for a few kilometers.


Yellow-billed hornbill

Eventually we came across a beautiful leopard who was clearly looking for food. Apparently they spend a great deal of their day eating - everything from mice to larger buck, but they make sure to get their calories in. I was once again surprised how small they are compared to lions. Of course, if a leopard wants to eat you you'll have no chance, but they're still half the size of the king of the beasts. A leopard female is about 50kg and a male about 90kg, but lions start at 150kg for females.












A giraffe


Stopping for sundowners and snacks


A chameleon


A dung beetle - these are fascinating and extremely powerful little creatures that use the stars to navigate with their dung balls.


Sunset




Trouble brewing - One evening we were out at dusk and I started to see a big build up of clouds and noticed far off heavy rain. We started to make our way back to camp but the clouds were faster and soon we were in the middle of the bush in a building African thunderstorm. Despite the odds of being struck, I'm really scared of lightning and this was the first time I was feeling unsettled in the bush. We were in an open top car on a plain with lightning falling around us. Despite being well on our way we were caught in a torrential storm and nearby lightning strikes that left me pretty irritable for the rest of the night. Luckily we had ponchos to prevent us from being drenched, but I wasn't irritated by the water. My family thought it was the best experience ever but I hated it.

The next day we came across our first lion pride. They were mostly young males.








Lions look like big cats but when they stare at you with their predatory eyes you immediately realize how dangerous they are and that you are clearly in the food category.


African Giant Snail - this was the biggest snail I've ever seen with at least an 8-inch shell. Apparently there is a farmer growing them for 'snail steaks' as a delicacy but I'm not sure how its going.

We were also lucky to see African Wild Dogs. These are very rare and beautiful. They behave just like dogs do and they were chasing one another around fighting over a steenbuck head that they'd found. Death by these dogs is the most brutal of all as the pack tears you to pieces - unlike the cats who bite your neck and put you out of your misery. The dogs also have incredible stamina and a pack can run down antelope over 50km or more until they're exhausted. We were also lucky to see a few puppies. The pack is led by an alpha and beta female.






Zebra with a strange pattern - looked like a QR Code


Nyala


Waterbuck

Later we were lucky to come across a pair of white rhinos, who were once common but have been decimated by poachers for their horns. These two were dehorned to make them less alluring to poachers and were frolicking in the green trees.





The next day we saw one of the legendary male lions of the reserve, Dark Mane. He used to be a very powerful and large male who dominated the region but two years ago a buffalo broke his leg. Normally this would be a death sentence for a lion but he survived. He limps around and follows other prides. He still has enough power to chase lesser lions from the kill and get some meat, but he isn't a leader anymore and has been chased off a few times by other males. Admittedly, he was looking a little thin when we saw him and I didn't think he had much time left.







... and how right I was! A few days later we left the reserve and he accompanied a pride to try take down a buffalo. Unfortunately the buffalo herd rallied and chased the lions off but because of his limp he was caught by them and they threw him around for almost half an hour. Sadly, he died of his injuries that night and that was the end of a great male lion. I have since come across the footage of him being killed by the buffalo herd on various websites - and he really had no chance. I guess sometimes the buffalo wins but it couldn't have been nice to witness.




Hippo

Although the big cats are beautiful and intriguing, they're actually boring because all they do is sleep. The best animals for me are social animals like elephants who walk around in families and interact. Its incredible to watch them socialize - from older elephants who can be sixty years old to little babies who can't even use their trunks. They're incredibly dangerous animals if they feel threatened but if you know their body language they are peaceful to be around and will even let you drive close to them. It's all about mutual respect.


An angsty teenager




A grumpy old man



Ultimately the safari came to an end and we drove back on our last evening before exiting the park.




Last edited by SAtraveller; Jan 2, 2023 at 6:56 pm
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Old Dec 7, 2022, 12:51 am
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Fantastic pictures you got there during your safari!
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Old Dec 9, 2022, 6:38 pm
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Originally Posted by nequine
Fantastic pictures you got there during your safari!
Thanks Nequine!
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Old Dec 9, 2022, 7:45 pm
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6. A week in Cape Town

As usual, we needed some respite in Cape Town, arguably one of our favorite cities in the world. As we have been to Cape Town so many times, we decided to avoid the wine farms and rather focus on relaxation and perhaps doing a few things we'd never done before.

The first challenge was getting to Cape Town. Unfortunately most of the regional airlines in South Africa have gone under. We used to fly British Airways Comair, Kulula and Mango and they all don't exist anymore. South African Airways is a fiasco that has a remnant fleet that can't be trusted. That leaves SA Airlink and FlySafair. There's also a new one called CemAir. FlySafair was around when we left even though they were smaller so we decided to use them. SA Airlink used to fly to remote areas that weren't accessible to most airlines, but they've rebranded and they seem to be heading to major cities - so we might try them next time.

I was really impressed with FlySafair. Their website is easy to use and they have a lot of extras that you can pay for to make life easy, like priority security at the airport. Their fleet of Boeing 737's was mostly the newer -800s and higher, but we did fly back on an old -400. The crew on both our flights were excellent, the flights were both extremely punctual and overall it was a really good experience.




With a cute menu I settled on a mini-bottle of wine which hit the spot on this 2 hour flight.



We took off into ominous clouds and flew through a particularly purple thing that caused some bounces for a few minutes before things cleared up.




Clearing up


Flying over the ocean before doing a 180.


Finals

The first thing we did was head into Cape Town and book into our boutique hotel, Atlanticview Guest House. It was a lovely place and we had such a great room. It was the Royal Suite and luckily lived up to its name. The staff were very professional yet approachable. There were guests from all over the world there. We know because each night there is a wine and canape evening and we met a few people. The views in Cape Town are sensational if you know where to stay, and Camps Bay is usually one of those places. With the vast ocean before you, and table mountain behind you, you can't go wrong.


Sitting here and reading and swimming was such a pleasure.


Dusk bliss


Camps Bay


One of the infinity pools




Sunset


Sunset from the dining room - while the boutique hotel does offer dinner, we decided to rather go out and explore the city.


View behind the hotel


The morning breakfast platter

Despite our attempt to explore we headed down to the V&A waterfront which remains one of our favorite places despite our many visits. They have dismantled the Ferris wheel and they're moving it to the other side of the shopping mall to get better views of the ocean. Prior to dinner we did some shopping as we are attending a white wedding next year and Cape Town is one of the better places to buy white attire. Naturally, we found everything we needed and for a good price too.









They've made the mall quite attractive to football fans with a big TV and open air space for people to watch some of the matches. There were fans of many nationalities walking around in their football shirts. Later that evening we wandered into Karibu, a restaurant that serves South African delicacies. What a lovely place with exceptional food and a great wine list. It was so good to eat some of my childhood favorites along with one of my most missed wines, Raka Quinary.


Venison potjie - delicious!


Koeksisters & ice cream - good god, take me now

The next day we visited the Cape Town aquarium which is surprisingly something that has evaded us all these years. It really is a hidden gem and shouldn't be missed. There are numerous exceptional tanks, as well as various halls like the jellyfish exhibit, the penguin hall etc. We spent a good 4 hours there and found it fascinating. The penguin feeding is something we both enjoyed.


Clown fish madness - I have two clown fish at home and this blew my mind.


Got to keep that sand clean!


I didn't like this penguin. He stared at me for entirely too long and I felt judged.

After this we headed to a nearby restaurant and had a delicious seafood platter for two while enjoying a view of the bay.



I always forget how windy Cape Town can be. I've seen people blown down the street and holding on to traffic lights in the past. On one evening we were lying in bed and wondered if the hotel could handle much more. Luckily the wind always dies down, even if it takes a few days. It's also great walking along the sea point promenade if the conditions are good. People walk their dogs there, work out in urban gyms and just chat in an extraordinary setting.





One day we booked afternoon tea at the Mount Nelson hotel. Choosing either a seating at 12:00 or 15:00 we went for the earlier one and joined the people in their oversized sunglasses and wide brimmed hats in a nod to an ostentatious past filled with scones and clotted cream. Very interestingly, our server was the head tea sommelier for the restaurant. Afternoon tea at the hotel serves over 200 types of teas and he knows them all. He's also an expert on all teas and it was amazing to listen to him talk about tea pairing as surely as a wine sommelier does.


Stylish Menu


Scones with cream and jams


Sandwiches and treats


Petit fours to take home

My only advice when attending afternoon tea here is to arrive hungry!

As usual we lined up some culinary delights for our trip to the mother city. We used to eat at a great restaurant each night but the food is too rich and so much wine inevitably brings you down, so now we limit our visits to two great restaurants spaced well apart with average dinners in between.

Our first big treat was Fyn. I booked this on a whim in May after looking for some great experiences without knowing that it is rated as the 36th best restaurant in the world and the best restaurant in Africa. It was a great evening!! The restaurant is on top of a building in a high ceilinged palace with an Asian inspired menu. You can have the full experience or a contracted one, with or without pairing and with or without caviar. We went for the full experience with caviar and without pairing.


Beautiful setting


Chutoro & ikura hand roll, Tempura dune spinach, tentsuyu, Guinea fowl wonton, tori paitan, sea lettuce, Ostrich egg chawanmushi


Caviar


Hokkaido milk bun, burnt mushroom custard


This was something baked in a leaf but it escapes my mind.


King trout, smoked barley, Cape Malay curry vinaigrette, yuzu atchar gel, Chokka, truffle, ink mayonnaise, Sashimi, daikon, negi aioli, Tsukemono


Crayfish cooked in kelp, roast shell emulsion, tomato


Grilled wagyu, brassicas, mountain ‘caviar’ & kosho


Honey palate cleanser with crickets. Created by a sustainable food farm 'just cricket' is promoting edible insects. Optional, but I tried them - crunchy and tasted like pork crackling.


Petit Fours


Robata pineapple, rice ice cream, shichimi, ginger syrup

What an amazing evening! Fyn has got to be one of our favourite restaurants ever.

Of course the next night we were lucky to get a reservation at the Pot Luck Club which is a restaurant built on top of a grain silo. With a large glass elevator going to the top, it is a private haven that many desire to eat at because of its exceptional small plated foods. Our server told us that the recommended portion is 6-8 dishes per person, and we paired this with their delicious house red.




Grilled octopus




Duck in many forms - sensational


Lamb Roast


Wagyu steak





We felt so privileged to eat at this delightful restaurant. Hilariously, an American couple sitting next to us at Fyn met us again here - it looks like we were both doing the culinary rounds!

All good things must end and even though we'd tried to moderate our diet we were starting to feel chronically satiated in South Africa. Luckily we could soon fly back to Canada and resume our normal diet, at least until our next trip. With that we boarded our return FlySafair flight to Johannesburg.


Take off over False Bay


Evading some angry African clouds

Last edited by SAtraveller; Dec 9, 2022 at 7:58 pm
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