Scotland – 12 days in Inverness, Skye, Outer Hebrides, St.Kilda & NC500
Jul 1, 2021, 1:45 am
#16
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: SE U.K.
Posts: 123
Thank you for a wonderful trip report shefgab the pictures are wonderful. We did the NC500 a couple of years ago and are mulling plans for next year's visit to the west coast. This will give me the ammunition I need to present my proposed itinerary to the current wife. I particularly loved Ullapool and am thinking of a short stay there combined with a CalMac ferry trip to Stornoway. Your pictures of the Outer Hebrides make me want to go further! Looking forward to the next instalment Thank you again.
Last edited by bigbadjoe; Jul 1, 2021 at 1:46 am Reason: spelling
Jul 1, 2021, 4:52 am
#19
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Day Ten – Stornoway to Ullapool & the NC500
Stornoway felt like a major urban centre after the last few days on the islands, even though the population is barely over 5000.
A local lady in front of the ferry to the mainland.
Fishcakes and chips for lunch before catching the boat
Before my 2pm ferry, I had a free morning. Of my 12 days in Scotland, today was the only morning where the weather had any real effect. It’s was drizzling (too wet for a walk), and so I drove out to see the Tiumpan Head Lighthouse (opened by QE2).
Before long it was time to head for the ferry
Ullapool was quite a lot smaller than I was expecting
Before heading north to find my accommodation for the night, I drove south a few miles to the Corrieshalloch Gorge – it was very impressive!
With just one full day (and two nights) to go cover a very large chunk of the North Coast route, it was hard to pick places to stay in order to even out the driving and sightseeing.
I ended up booking a nice motel in the middle of nowhere, about an hours drive north of Ullapool.
A local lady in front of the ferry to the mainland.
Fishcakes and chips for lunch before catching the boat
Before my 2pm ferry, I had a free morning. Of my 12 days in Scotland, today was the only morning where the weather had any real effect. It’s was drizzling (too wet for a walk), and so I drove out to see the Tiumpan Head Lighthouse (opened by QE2).
Before long it was time to head for the ferry
Ullapool was quite a lot smaller than I was expecting
Before heading north to find my accommodation for the night, I drove south a few miles to the Corrieshalloch Gorge – it was very impressive!
With just one full day (and two nights) to go cover a very large chunk of the North Coast route, it was hard to pick places to stay in order to even out the driving and sightseeing.
I ended up booking a nice motel in the middle of nowhere, about an hours drive north of Ullapool.
Jul 1, 2021, 5:02 am
#20
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Believe it or not they are bus shelters, The winter winds are so strong and directionally variable that a conventional one would often be unusable, wind/rain straight through the doorway, likewise anything with glass would not work. There is always one side not windswept. Given that the bus time is somewhat imprecise depending on what they have encountered, they are a practical solution. The main use of buses nowadays is for schoolchildren in the early mornings, plus some odd shopping journeys. Quite practical really, and straightforward for local contractors to build.
All bits I'm familiar with. I haven't been to Skye since the late 1970s, but it doesn't look to have changed much. Our office goes every year (apart from now) to Fort William for a major sporting event, for which we (I) drive rented minibuses. Off from near Heathrow at 9am, into The Fort at about 7pm. It's 550 miles.
The last time I flew into Inverness it was when BA were running it as a BAe146 from Gatwick (and for the picky lot, it was indeed a 146 and not an RJ85). Before that in a BA One-Eleven, and even a BMI A320. The route has gone through lots of changes over time; customer there told of older times still on a Viscount, 7pm from Heathrow, into Inverness at 9pm. The airport closed at 9.30pm then, if you were more than half an hour late leaving Heathrow (not infrequent) nobody waited for you, the airport closed, the flight diverted to Aberdeen where coaches were eventually arranged, into Inverness airport car park at after 1am.
I may be off there again soon, seemingly.
All bits I'm familiar with. I haven't been to Skye since the late 1970s, but it doesn't look to have changed much. Our office goes every year (apart from now) to Fort William for a major sporting event, for which we (I) drive rented minibuses. Off from near Heathrow at 9am, into The Fort at about 7pm. It's 550 miles.
The last time I flew into Inverness it was when BA were running it as a BAe146 from Gatwick (and for the picky lot, it was indeed a 146 and not an RJ85). Before that in a BA One-Eleven, and even a BMI A320. The route has gone through lots of changes over time; customer there told of older times still on a Viscount, 7pm from Heathrow, into Inverness at 9pm. The airport closed at 9.30pm then, if you were more than half an hour late leaving Heathrow (not infrequent) nobody waited for you, the airport closed, the flight diverted to Aberdeen where coaches were eventually arranged, into Inverness airport car park at after 1am.
I may be off there again soon, seemingly.
Thank you for a wonderful trip report shefgab the pictures are wonderful. We did the NC500 a couple of years ago and are mulling plans for next year's visit to the west coast. This will give me the ammunition I need to present my proposed itinerary to the current wife. I particularly loved Ullapool and am thinking of a short stay there combined with a CalMac ferry trip to Stornoway. Your pictures of the Outer Hebrides make me want to go further! Looking forward to the next instalment Thank you again.
Thanks for reading, glad you like the pics!
Jul 1, 2021, 5:05 am
#21
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Excellent trip review, thank you for sharing. I really love holidaying in Scotland, especially when the weather is not ideal. And the Outer Hebrides are just beautiful.
Incidentally, the principal reason 09L is not (typically) used for departures is the Cranford Protocol, in which it was agreed with the residents of Cranford that they'd be spared a lot of engine noise.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cranford_Agreement
Incidentally, the principal reason 09L is not (typically) used for departures is the Cranford Protocol, in which it was agreed with the residents of Cranford that they'd be spared a lot of engine noise.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cranford_Agreement
Jul 1, 2021, 5:23 am
#22
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Day Eleven – Driving the NC500 to John O’Groats
Today would be my longest day of driving. Less than 200 miles in total, but given the topography and the fact that it was mostly single lane winding roads, it would be a full day mission.
Plenty of signposts for the NC500 lot
Thankfully sheep hold ups were very rare. I’m glad I was driving clockwise, as it seemed there was far more traffic coming my directions than with me. There was a great assortment of vehicles on the road, from Minis and Fords, I saw some Porches and even a Bentley attempting the route.
The fabulous beach at Durness, Sango Sands
Just up the road from Durness was the Smoo Cave. You can take a boat tour of the caves, but there was a wait for a tour, and I was under a bit of time pressure.
Scallops with black pudding for lunch
The road continued along the coast – the scenery was stunning, although it got rapidly flatter and developed the closer to Thurso the road got.
Part of the road crosses the barren moors
The old half way house
Perfect for antisocial anglers
The yellow gorse provided plenty of colour
The famous “end” corner of the country is of course John O’Groats. This isn’t actually the furthest north, nor the most north easterly point, just the largest village (and but largest, I mean a couple of hundred people) in the vicinity.
Dunnet Head is the northernmost point of mainland Britain, just a few miles south of the Orkney Islands.
The Orkney Islands are SO CLOSE!
A few miles further on is touristy John O’Groats. There’s a small harbour, tourist accommodation, and a visitor centre, and that’s about it.
Duncansby Head is the proper north east corner of the country, marked by a small automated lighthouse.
There are some impressive sea stacks along the coast, and some easy walks from the car park at the lighthouse.
And plenty of derpy looking sheep
My B&B for the night
These three little maids followed me up and down the road
And the sheep were entertaining too, jumping up and falling off the hay bales.
Plenty of signposts for the NC500 lot
Thankfully sheep hold ups were very rare. I’m glad I was driving clockwise, as it seemed there was far more traffic coming my directions than with me. There was a great assortment of vehicles on the road, from Minis and Fords, I saw some Porches and even a Bentley attempting the route.
The fabulous beach at Durness, Sango Sands
Just up the road from Durness was the Smoo Cave. You can take a boat tour of the caves, but there was a wait for a tour, and I was under a bit of time pressure.
Scallops with black pudding for lunch
The road continued along the coast – the scenery was stunning, although it got rapidly flatter and developed the closer to Thurso the road got.
Part of the road crosses the barren moors
The old half way house
Perfect for antisocial anglers
The yellow gorse provided plenty of colour
The famous “end” corner of the country is of course John O’Groats. This isn’t actually the furthest north, nor the most north easterly point, just the largest village (and but largest, I mean a couple of hundred people) in the vicinity.
Dunnet Head is the northernmost point of mainland Britain, just a few miles south of the Orkney Islands.
The Orkney Islands are SO CLOSE!
A few miles further on is touristy John O’Groats. There’s a small harbour, tourist accommodation, and a visitor centre, and that’s about it.
Duncansby Head is the proper north east corner of the country, marked by a small automated lighthouse.
There are some impressive sea stacks along the coast, and some easy walks from the car park at the lighthouse.
And plenty of derpy looking sheep
My B&B for the night
These three little maids followed me up and down the road
And the sheep were entertaining too, jumping up and falling off the hay bales.
Jul 1, 2021, 5:35 am
#23
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Programs: BAEC
Posts: 2,644
Incidentally, the principal reason 09L is not (typically) used for departures is the Cranford Protocol, in which it was agreed with the residents of Cranford that they'd be spared a lot of engine noise.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cranford_Agreement
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cranford_Agreement
The Cranford Agreement has been over for a decade though, so it was only pracicalities that were preventing 09L from being used in recent years.
Jul 1, 2021, 6:11 am
#24
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Jul 1, 2021, 6:25 am
#25
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Day Twelve – John O’Groats to Inverness and London
My 12th and final day in Scotland. Today I had a few hours to meader down to Inverness for my afternoon flight back to London. First stop were some more ancient stones at Achavanich.
Quick pitstop at Dornoch
I managed to drop the car back at Enterprise two hours before my flight. My guesstimate for my mileage was around 600 miles, but ended up giving the car back with nearly 1050 on the clock!
Ther was no queue to drop my bag, and security was similarly empty. There wasn’t much happening airside. As I entered the depature lounge, the final call was made for a flight to Stornoway.
After a while an easyJet arrived from Gatwick, followed by one from Bristol.
Annoyingly the BA flight ended up with a 2 hour delay due to a technical issue and an aircraft swap. Since Covid the INV airport lounge has been shut – there wasn’t much to do but stare out the window. Thankfully there’s free wifi, and some tables to work from.
Inverness (INV) - London Heathrow (LHR)
Aircraft: A320 G-MEDK
Scheduled: 1535-1655 (1h20m)
Actual: 1729-1834 (1h05m)
Boarding was via one of these contraptions often found in the States
This is an old bmi bird, with the flip down tray tables. Haven’t been on one of these for years!
With time against them, the crew boarded everyone ASAP and we were soon airborne.
Above the clouds
Todays’ offering was afternoon tea – perfect for the time and day and durations. The crew were delightful
Jam or cream first?
It’s been too long since I had a nice drink in the air!
Before long we were beginning our descent into LHR. Time to switch to plastic from glass.
Only an hour or so late, we touchdown at T5, bringing me to the end of my trip.
Quick pitstop at Dornoch
I managed to drop the car back at Enterprise two hours before my flight. My guesstimate for my mileage was around 600 miles, but ended up giving the car back with nearly 1050 on the clock!
Ther was no queue to drop my bag, and security was similarly empty. There wasn’t much happening airside. As I entered the depature lounge, the final call was made for a flight to Stornoway.
After a while an easyJet arrived from Gatwick, followed by one from Bristol.
Annoyingly the BA flight ended up with a 2 hour delay due to a technical issue and an aircraft swap. Since Covid the INV airport lounge has been shut – there wasn’t much to do but stare out the window. Thankfully there’s free wifi, and some tables to work from.
Inverness (INV) - London Heathrow (LHR)
Aircraft: A320 G-MEDK
Scheduled: 1535-1655 (1h20m)
Actual: 1729-1834 (1h05m)
Boarding was via one of these contraptions often found in the States
This is an old bmi bird, with the flip down tray tables. Haven’t been on one of these for years!
With time against them, the crew boarded everyone ASAP and we were soon airborne.
Above the clouds
Todays’ offering was afternoon tea – perfect for the time and day and durations. The crew were delightful
Jam or cream first?
It’s been too long since I had a nice drink in the air!
Before long we were beginning our descent into LHR. Time to switch to plastic from glass.
Only an hour or so late, we touchdown at T5, bringing me to the end of my trip.
Jul 1, 2021, 7:48 am
#27
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Peter May, in his novel about the Hebrides "The Black House" The Blackhouse - Wikipedia says that the children used to call them 'Giant's picnic tables'. The buses operate principally around getting children to/from school, and other odd tasks in between. The classic bus operator across the West Highlands and all the islands is still remembered by many, "David MacBrayne", with their longstanding red and green livery and a huge graphic of a Highlander (the "Hielan'man") in full battle dress on the bus side, one of the most spectacular bus colour schemes ever. MacBraynes at Kinlochleven Depot | David MacBrayne AEC Relia… | Flickr They did everything along your route - buses, ferries, lorries for freight, carried the mail etc. The name carries on with the ferry operator Caledonian MacBrayne.
Jul 1, 2021, 9:07 am
#28
Join Date: May 2005
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Great trip report. Scotland is amazing. Reminds me of a family I met hiking up Kilimanjaro (I never made it - sadly), but the father kept saying that as we passed each various geographic zone - "reminds me of Scotland."
Having seen the photos you posted, yes, I can see how the rest of the world looks much like Scotland.
Having seen the photos you posted, yes, I can see how the rest of the world looks much like Scotland.
Jul 1, 2021, 10:40 am
#29
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Last edited by Gardyloo; Jul 1, 2021 at 10:45 am
Jul 1, 2021, 10:04 pm
#30
Join Date: Jan 2013
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Wow, so beautiful, Congrats on your wonderful pictures, It really makes me think I should see Scotland, although I am less adventurous than I once was. But maybe next summer along with a trip to London/Paris . I suppose the Queen won;t have me at Balmoral, but I;m not much for parlor games anyway. Take care, and thanks again.