Flamboyant Sanur
 

Introduction The Tandjung Sari is arguably Bali's original hotel, and perhaps the first boutique hotel in Asia. Initially the home of Dutch-Indonesian artist, Wija Wawo-Runtu, the home later became a hotel and local hotspot in the island and soon attracted the likes of various Beatles, David Bowie, and a certain legendary hotelier by the name of Adrian Zecha. The hotel's storied past lives on as a small and quaint beachside hotel in the East-coast village of Sanur. This was initially a one night stay just to have easy access to a covid test before flying back to Jakarta, but was soon extended to a two night stay, and then another four more nights in Bali at Amandari. We booked an offer that includes breakfast and afternoon tea. We booked a Village Bungalow and received one as such.Additionally, please accept my apologies for publishing this review before Amankila, I ensure that that review will be up soon! As always, thank you for reading and for your kind comments! Check In We arrived at Tandjung Sari from Amankila at around 13.30. Upon arrival, the kind receptionist sounded a Gong three times to denote an arrival of a guest - great intent although a bit too much for my liking.Our check-in was quickly processed and we were soon taken to our room with our luggage pushed with a vintage style trolley. The ground of the hotel is very well keep and has a very quaint vibe. Tandjung Sari's beautiful lobby and gardens Room We arrived in our room, a village bungalow with an outdoor gazebo. To put it mildly, the room was incredibly retro. I've not seen a place like this before, not at Raffles Singapore, or the historic Hotel Majapahit in neighbouring Surabaya. I say this with the best intentions, and I am frankly very fond of the rustic ambiance of the room. From the 'tegel' tiled floors to the antique rattan chairs, everything looked absolutely retro. Like Amankila, there isn't an in-room television, which really adds to the ambiance.Apart from the air-conditioner, the room looked like it was straight out of the 60s, and if it weren't for my mobile phone, I would have thought that I was indeed in the 60s. Very nice.The entire bungalow was very well kept and very clean, and we were welcomed with a nice fruitplate on the table.Bed and Dining TableBed and Dining TableRoom from SofaSofaDeskBathroomSinkOversized BathtubBathtubShower NecessitiesFrog Soap HolderCourtyard/Outdoor ShowerOur Outdoor GazeboRoom with Mosquito Net/Bed CanopyBungalow from Outside Service Service is very warm and home like. Like what an Aman hotel was meant to be, everyone appeared to know who we were and where we're staying, as no one ever asked us about our room numbers or name. Although, we had to sign things when charging our meals to the room (which makes sense given the amount of non-hotel guests dining in the premises). Apart from the gong sounding, all our interactions with the staff was very family like and everyone were very courteous. I won't single out any names because everyone was exceptional. Likewise, the staff must have kept track of our movements because when we came back an hour after heading out for breakfast or dinner, our bungalow had been cleaned and turned down, respectively. This is very well done on their part. One time we left our afternoon tea snacks thinking that their advertised afternoon tea was literally drinks in the afternoon. When we returned at dinner, we received a call saying that we left our snacks and they had kept it for us and shortly delivered it to our room. Again, exceptional service. Dining Food tasted very home made, and was of very high quality. The breakfast menu was a la carte, and the food was very good. We tried a few things, among them the classic Eggs Florentine, Nasi Kuning (Yellow Rice), and Avocado and Eggs Toast. Wonderful Fruit PlateEggs Florentine on Sour Dough with Ratatouille and Spinach on the sideIndonesian Nasi Kuning - yum!CroissantAvocado and Poached Eggs on Sour Dough Toast The complimentary afternoon tea snacks likewise was very nice and high quality.Excellent Afternoon Tea SelectionExcellent Afternoon Tea SelectionDuring the evening there is a small 'marketplace' set up at the beachside that the hotel calls "Jajan Sore" which turned out to mean afternoon snack. It was a very quaint set-up and exactly how I'd imagine a small neighbourhood street in 60s Indonesia. It was a lovely set-up and just felt very cozy. The food again is of excellent quality and is very good.Jajan Sore Set UpRestaurant and BarEvening Set-upMixed Satay, and CrispsPizza Margaretha Location Tandjung Sari is located in the northern part of Sanur Beach, near Sindhu Beach and is placed in a row of historic hotels (of which arguably Tandjung Sari is probably best) - including the old Bali Beach Complex and the Segara Village Hotel.There is a local market 10 minutes away and during the weekends the beach is crowded with pop-up bazaars and food markets. Overall a very lively neighbourhood, although not the party kind. Swimming Pool and Restaurant AreaHotel gardens Overall Overall, the old Tandjung Sari is an excellent boutique hotel and I would not hesitate to recommend it, particularly to those who are entertained by history. The hotel is by no means modern, but it has a wonderfully quaint setting and exudes a family-like warmth that other, larger hotels lack. The only reason to avoid Tandjung Sari is if one needs an exceedingly modern facility, or does not like being in Sanur. Otherwise, it is a near perfect hotel.

Amankila of Bali
 

Introduction Ah, Amankila, what’s perhaps amongst FT’s most well known and most loved hotels. Located in Eastern Bali, the hotel is a well-known haven of architectural splendour, cultural sensitivity, and exceptional service - well, mostly.We booked via a Virtuoso agent who was able to combine the Idyllic Indonesia with Virtuoso benefits at around £650 a night, with a complimentary third night. Note that we booked a Virtuoso rate and received the published Virtuoso benefits. This included an upgrade to a Pool Suite, which was a nice gesture. Additionally I was surprised that we were initially refused the published benefit of USD100 or equivalent food and beverage credit, although after multiple calls to reservations that was later resolved. Frankly quite a poor start, but happy it was resolved. Check In We were picked up in Ubud at 11.00. We had initially scheduled a pick up at 11.00, later moved back to 13.00, and back to 11.00 at 9.00 on the day of due to sudden changes in circumstance. A car was dispatched immediately, for what was meant to be just over an hours drive. The car arrived 15 minutes late, although granted I was pushing it a bit far. That said, I was surprised they didn't pull it off for Aman, considering that the roads had no traffic - but it was entirely my fault anyways it is myself that is to blame.The driver had seemed rather cold on the start although quickly warmed up after striking a conversation. He was a complete delight to talk to thereafter, and we had a great chat about Aman and Bali. I noticed that they had changed the vehicle to a newer model (I was told that they changed equipment every three years), and (sadly) gone due to the pandemic was the trademark white-linen clad seats along with the jar of cookies and crisps.Upon arrival, we were greeted by the wonderful Ari at reception who welcomed us back 'home' and brought us to our suite. We had to sign a bunch of health forms that was apparently mandated by the local government. Room As mentioned, we had been upgraded to an ocean view pool suite, which was well received. The suite itself is well kept, and as always still beautifully appointed with Ed Tuttle's timeless design. We were welcomed by the usually sanctioned fruit plate, which unfortunately seemed to get smaller each year. Long gone is Basil Pao's brilliant though dated catalogue of Aman Resorts (AMAN2), replaced with the newest catalogue. Again, absent too was was the usual snack jars of cookies and crisps as has the mini bar. This later was explained to be a pandemic related decision, although both jars of the brilliant oatmeal and chocolate cookies and vegetable crisps magically appeared after explaining how I missed them. Wonderful!BedroomLoungerDesk and iPadI wasn't a big fan of the iPad that serves as the new service directory for each suite, which compared to a normal handbook felt very clunky - particularly when browsing dining menus. Some past guests left warm messages in the notes app contained in the iPad, although I wasn't particularly a fan of one note containing a rather risque sketch by one party. I would have thought they'd reset the iPad after each stay. The old Bose speaker was replaced had been much nicer B&O speaker which was also there on my last stay two years ago. Additionally to old toilet had been replaced by one of the very high-tech Toto-smart toilets as well. ToiletView towards bedroom from Bathroom and ShowerViewSuite in the EveningIced Water and SunscreenTurndownApart from that, everything else within the room was still as good as ever. The design by the late architect Ed Tuttle still remains as beautiful to this day, and even excels compared to some very poor room designs in newer hotels. I loved the multitude of towels folded and hung everywhere, and the wonderful natural insect repellent spray that saved me a lot of trouble with the many insect bites I got since arriving in Bali.The condition terrazzo flooring, and coconut shell tables do not reflect the hotel's age at 29, a mark of Amankila's rigorous maintenance. Apart from one tap valve accessory falling off, everything was in pristine condition. Hand sanitisers were provided in the villa, although they smelled very strong. All the other toiletries and soaps smelled great and were of excellent quality as usual. All linens were crisp and white, and towels were plush. Nothing to complain about. Service I was delighted to see many familiar faces who took wonderful care of us during our stay. In particular, Kasih from the restaurant is always a delight and a wonderful reminder of great stays at Amankila in the past. Additionally, Ari at reception was also very warm, and friendly.I was later approached by a young man, the assistant F&B Manager named Hubert. Despite only being at Aman for just over 2 years, he had a very impressive knowledge of Aman and hotels in general. He was great to talk to. Since the hotel has retired around 50% of its workforce, they have been hiring many people as trainees. At the restaurant regardless of staff, service is excellent and praiseworthy. Everyone remembered our preferences and orders and every request was taken cared of. Excellent! The fact that Kasih was there every morning made everything better. Service was very polished as expected.This was the first time we had turn down service between the hotels we stayed at in Bali, although it appeared to be somewhat on demand. Whilst thankfully those thoughtful little gifts still show up every night, it was sad that the rooms weren't refreshed as often as before (later explained to be due to the Pandemic, to limit staff activity in room). Additionally and logically, it must be hard running with only 50% staff.Unexpectedly, someone came into our suite unannounced and started cleaning the pool not realising that we were inside. After realising that, he explained he was cleaning the pool and left after I asked him to come back later. Furthermore, I was more so disappointed that people in the Pool or Beach Club neither knew our room numbers, let alone our names - and we were on several instances questioned for our room number. Rather disappointing.Thankfully the faults were addressed by management, as well as Kila's General Manager, Ernst, whose responses and goodwill were much appreciated. Many thanks! Dining The quality of food is still as good as before at Kila, and a lot better than the underwhelming food we had at Dari the night before we arrived at Kila. Both the breakfast, lunch and dinner menu appeared to have been changed to follow a more seemingly health concious approach. For breakfast, alongside the typical fares like Eggs Benedict and Omelettes and whatnot, items like Mexican Eggs (Salsa, Eggs, and Tortilla) and Egg White Omelettes are offered. Additionally, things like healthy green juice mixes are also available. Wonderfully, some items from the past were still available on demand (and preordered) - including the iconic Moroccan Donuts. PapayasFried RiceEggs RoyaleFruit SaladIndonesian Rice Porridge - Bubur Ayam Mexican EggsMoroccan DonutsGreen Goddess Green JuiceEgg White OmeletteAnother Bubur AyamHash BrownEggs RoyaleExotic Fruit PlatterChia Seed PuddingI have nothing to add about the meals at Kila. Everything was fresh and good, althought the menu can feel a bit limited at times. It is possible to order things off menu, although that understandably required an order in advance. All good. We didn't partake in the other meals every day as much, but everything was well cooked and very good.Fish CurryFish TacosGrilled FishCookies and Crackers Location Amankila is located in Manggis near Candidasa. Not much has changed in the area apart from some comestic developments near the entrance of the Karangasem Regency. Kila remains far away from other hotels apart from the sister hotel Alila Manggis (formerly GHM's Serai). There are sometimes more ships off the coast due to the hotel's proximity to Tanah Ampo and Padang Bai Ports. The hotel is physically located around two hours from Ngurah Rai Airport and an hour from Ubud, although traffic could make the journey longer. Nearby is Amed Beach which also serves as a great diving destination. Many excursions are offered by the hotel, among which includes a boat excursion around the islands near Eastern Bali. We did not partake in any excursions on this occasion.Amankila's forever iconic pool Overall As many have reported pre-pandemic, the hotel's clientele seemed to have a shift to younger and more tech-savvy crowds - more concerned about content creation if anything. I write this ironically, as someone rather young myself taking pictures to write for an FT review.Each to their own, but one person who seemed to be an influencer appeared to have a photoshoot by the main pool and the Terrace showcasing a load of different dresses complete with two photographers each morning. Hard to ignore when trying to relax by the main pool.Unfortunately, with the rise of the influencers and content creators, I can only imagine more and more of such scenarios going on in the future. Having said that I am happy that the hotel and other Amans banning the use of drones on property, which is a welcome decision to those looking to unwind. Despite this, Amankila remains a very welcome place of respite away from the hustle and bustle of urban life. The hotel's extraordinary setting and great service and food solidifies its status as a haven from the rat race. Although, the Aman brand overall is heading to unchartered waters, I trust that the hotel is trying hard to maintain its long renowned reputation and keeping its magic, despite changing circumstances.As for the all new gimmicks introduced by VD's Aman? Only time will tell if myself and others will eventually embrace them as it had meant to be.I conclude in saying that despite any shortcomings that had happened and later resolved, there truly is no other hotel that could second Kila. The setting, architecture, service, food, nature, and location is probably unfounded elsewhere. I don't know what the future will bring, but I can say for sure that Amankila is a very special place.

Often overlooked and very much underrated
 

Introduction Amandari is the second Aman resort to be established. Opened in 1989, the hotel occupies a prime piece of real estate that overlooks the majestic Sayan Valley. Despite its age, the hotel is very well kept and maintained, a lot like many of the other older Amans. Perhaps often overlooked when compared to Dari's iconic sister hotel - Amankila, the hotel still holds up to be a very solid option compared to the Four Seasons Sayan and the much newer Mandapa next door.We stayed for four nights having needed to prolong our stay in Bali. We booked a Village Suite but was upgraded to a Valley Suite (an upgrade that was not mentioned during check-in but much appreciated). Check In We arrived at Amandari at around 13.00 from the old Tandjung Sari. The hotel was deserted and we were the only guests to check in on that day. Throughout our stay, only two other rooms were occupied. Check-in was handled in room as usual. Ibu Masrani who handled our check in was very polished and courteous.All the check-in formalities were quick and efficiently processed. Room We were met by a very fragrant incense burning off in the room which gave off a smell very reflective of Bali in general - sweet, earthy and floral. Our Valley Suite overlooked the Sayan Valley. The flow of the mighty Ayung River is echoed throughout the space, providing a great deal of white noise. The room is virtually unchanged for the past 30 years, although keeps a very nice ambiance that feels more classic than outdated. The room features two desks which seems completely unnecessary and could easily be swapped for something else. There is a large fruit bowl that is refreshed every day, reminding me of what it was at Kila many years ago. The is also a coffee machine that was very clunky and hard to operate. Televisions are available on demand like at Kila.Two sarongs and a daybag is provided in the room which guests are welcome to take home. Additionally, much like the other Bali Amans, a small gift of sorts are left on the bed during turn down service.Curiously, the hotel did not seem to get the same amount of investment yet, compared to Kila, which already offers the new Japanese Smart Toilets. I am honestly not a big fan of the outdoor bathtub which often feels rather dirty with all sorts of leaves and insects in addition to some mud and soil from the adjacent plants in times of heavy rain.BedroomBed FruitbowlSarongsOutdoor BathtubToiletLoungersOutdoor Dining TableSuite EntranceOutside, there is a small courtyard of sorts that could double as a yoga terrace, as well as a small terrace with two daybeds and a direct view to the valley. The room also features a small Gazebo that houses a dining table.Overall, I found the room to be very well kept and well appointed, and definitely something comfortable enough for a longer stay. Service The hotel is unquestionably aged, and some features of the hotel do look quite outdated compared to the neighbouring Mandapa. However, what made the hotel shine was definitely the staff members who were very attentive to guest needs. Despite the limited workforce at the moment, they were still able to provide a great deal of service that stays true to the Aman brand. Attention to detail is exceptional, and no little touches were overlooked. We enquired the staff about the lack of little snacks in the room, and soon after a batch of freshly baked cookies and vegetable crisps were brought to the room. Likewise, the fruitbowl initially featured a bunch of very green bananas which were later changed with much riper yellow ones upon realising they were never touched. Excellent!Moreover, I had been looking around for a book and asked the staff about it on a few occasions, and on our last night the staff surprised me with that book. Some staff members, despite being in training and very new, were excellent and very warm - even very polished. Each staff member were also delight to talk to, and were eager to please. Every need had been attended to, however small, to my delight. Exceptional! Dining Before our stay, we had dinner at Dari on one occasion, which was unfortunately rather underwhelming. However, that was more than made up by the exceptional breakfasts we had on our four night stay, along with the freshly baked cookies waiting for us in the room each day.We were told that they were running on a limited menu due to limited staff and the pandemic, yet the selection was still good and the quality of breakfast items were still very good. Apart from a Muesli and Yogurt bowl that was served with granola instead, I had no complaints about the breakfast selection.Mango Smoothie BowlIndonesian Rice Porridge - Bubur AyamExotic Fruit PlatterEggs royaleMixed Berry SmoothieFrench ToastAnother Bubur AyamCroissant BasketMuesli with Yogurt and Fruit (disappointingly, the muesli turned out to be granola)Mango and Fruit SmoothieEgg White OmeletteBerry Smoothie BowlAvocado JuiceFresh Cookies in Room Location Amandari is located in the Sayan Village and shares a row with other hotels, including Mandapa, Four Seasons, Samaya, Kayumanis, Kupu-Kupu, and Alila. The hotel is 10 minutes away by car to Ubud's centre, and an hour away from the airport. Nearby are many selections of local foods and great restaurants including the excellent Mozaic Ubud. 10 minutes away by foot is the Sayan House restaurant and cafe that offers great views and good food for a decent price. Many hidden gems are also located around Ubud waiting to be discovered. Overall Overall, I would not hesitate one bit to recommend Amandari. The hotel, which I think is often outshined by Kila, is an excellent option despite all the newer and blingier rivals located near and around the hotel. Despite its age, the hotel has stood the test of time and remains very beautiful and wonderfully lowkey and away from all the crowds. Dari's peaceful surroundings, coupled with the excellent service from the warm Dari staff made the stay exceptional. Kudos to all the Dari staff, I can't recommend Amandari enough.

Thank you!
 

Dear everyone,

After a significant delay in the two last reviews, this last hotel review concludes this trip report. I'd like to express a massive thanks to everyone who have been reading and following this trip and truly appreciate your time. I hope you've enjoyed it.

Here's to hoping that Bali opens up real soon for everyone to enjoy.

Warm regards,

clubeurope

Hey! Thank you for sharing this information, its very useful. I thought to spend my vacation at Bali at the end of the summer

Great report. One note: Towards the end of the report, a lot of the text was superimposed over the the pictures so you can't really read what was there. But great pictures.

thanks for reading!

Bali isn’t open yet to the majority of visitors unfortunately, and after a string of delays I wouldn’t count on it opening this quarter.

i’m hoping it’ll start welcoming everyone very soon once Indonesia’s Covid cases gets back in control...

Thanks for taking the time to read, I appreciate your comments! I understand what you mean, but unfortunately I think that has to do with a technical fault with FT’s trip report system interface not loading correctly. It should show up as normal if you reload it a few times. Sorry about that.

Now it works. Thanks for the tip on reloading it. Again, great report.

Thank you so much for the inspiration through the various hotel reviews. I am in the process of planing a trip to Bali for September 2022 (..hopefully it might be feasible by then?) and your notes provide me very valuable insights. Currently we are looking to stay at the Oberoi at Seminyak and Lombok - however I will seriously look into some of the Kayumanis and Aman properties you have reviewed. Many Thanks

Many thanks for the kind words, I’m glad the reviews were helpful. I think September 2022 is a very realistic timeline, and there’s some good news on the borders opening. It’s being reported all over that Bali will be opening to tourists from several countries in 10(?!) days.

Specifically, this includes tourists from South Korea, Japan, New Zealand, China, and the UAE.

Finally regarding Oberoi Bali: it’s an old hotel in the lively area of Seminyak. In fact, it’s amongst the first luxury hotels of Bali when it opened as the Kayu Aya in the 70s before being sold off to Oberoi. Whilst the rooms haven’t been renovated for a while, yet I’ve not stayed there myself, and have heard many great things about the hotel nevertheless. Having said that, the hotel has been closed for over a year and will only reopen this month. Additionally, Seminyak is a very built up area nowadays, and in many ways, a lot more lively and “urban” compared to other parts of Bali.