Hut

We soon settled into the routine of a morning and afternoon excursion, broken up, and bookended by food.



Waking up, we found ourselves approaching Cierva Cove, around 200 km south of Barrientos Island. It was a stunning morning and we watched in awe from the breakfast table as several humpbacks were feeding right next to the boat. Lesson learnt – take the camera everywhere!

Cierva Cove
64°09′10″S, 60°03′28″W



The morning activity was a trip around the bay on a zodiac. We wouldn’t be landing anywhere but there was more than enough to keep us entertained for a couple of hours.



We were starting to get used to the process of getting off the ship. As the water was calm, we managed to make getting into the zodiacs almost look elegant.



First up was a quick trip around the bay to point out some of the scientific infrastructure and see if we could see any of the whales. We didn’t see any this time, however the kayakers got a up close look at a Minke Whale.



We did, however, get to cruise alongside some porpoising penguins.



This cruise was also a practical lesson on all things icebergs.



We learnt that actually most of what we were seeing were in fact growlers and bergy bits – the smaller relations of icebergs.



With literally hundreds of different bits of ice, our guide was able to point out the different colours (they are not all white!), features and explained how they all came to be.



The different layers and ledges served as a constant reminder that these things move around in the water. Best we keep some distance to avoid being surprised!



Often, we would slow to a halt and just sit there listening to the crackling sound of the ice. The sound of air that’s been trapped in the ice for millions of years… crazy when you really think about it!



In the background, you could hear the sharp cracks of ice calving off the glacier. It was amazing.



Taking the title as most photographed seal in the bay was this Leopard Seal.



Perched on a bergy bit and having a snooze, it was pretty surreal.



After a couple of hours in the sun, we were pleased we’d put on sunblock. Despite it being around 0ºC, it was quite nice out on the water.



Alas, all good things come to an end and with an afternoon adventure awaiting us further down the coast – it was time for a last look at the ice as we headed back to the ship.



Arriving back at the ship, it looked like the kayakers had been working quite hard and were only just arriving back. Mrs Hut and I agreed – we were happy to be doing the easy option!



After warming up over lunch, we headed up to the observation deck and Mawson’s Bar for a coffee… and maybe some cake.



As we left Cierva Cove and turned south towards Portal Point, it was clear that the weather down there looked quite different!



It would take a couple of hours to get there, so there was another fascinating lecture, this time on Penguins. I also visited the bridge, which was open for most of the trip, however this was pretty much the only photo I got before it was closed.



As we approached Portal Point, it was time for another briefing. This time it was to highlight the danger of crevasses and the importance of sticking to the trails that our guides would make! We would also split the passengers to increase the passenger to guide ratio. Half would land while the other half would do another zodiac cruise and then we would swap.

Portal Point
64°30′07″S, 61°45′54″W



This ship was being split port / starboard as we were called to the mudroom and we were in the group that was doing the zodiac cruise first. As we stepped out, we experienced what looking out the window had told us – it was snowing!



Leaving the boat and the kayakers behind – we were both reaffirmed we’d made the choice not to do the kayaking!



We were all dressed for the occasion; however, it was still a bit cold. There was a bit of wind and sitting still as we zipped about in the zodiac probably didn’t help.



On the cruise about the harbour, there were interesting ice forms to explore…



… along with this Weddell Seal.



Most of the time was spent like in the morning – admiring the different shapes…



… and making sure we avoided any falling ice!



The weather was very consistent… cold with a little light snow.



After an hour or so, it was our turn to set foot on the continent. My 7th and Mrs Hut’s 6th.



On the land we saw only a couple of Gentoo Penguins…



… along with a few Cormorants.



We did a bit of exploring with the guides along some trails the earlier passengers had been kind enough to help flatten out.



With the danger of crevasses, we stuck to the trails as we headed up the main hill…



… to the top where there was a view of the bay.



After an hour on land, we were ready to head back to the boat and warm up!



Dinner was fantastic, and the dining room was again alive with stories of the day’s adventures. A wonderful way to end another exciting day.

Hut

There was internet which was USD $250 per cabin for the whole trip, which compared to what it cost to get there, is very reasonable! We thought about it, but in the ended figured we were heading to the end of the world to disconnect… It seemed like quite a few of the passengers did get it, however the signal was a bit intermittent in parts.

On the crossings, the schedule kept us busy. Between frequent feeding and lectures – it felt like there wasn’t a lot of downtime.

Would we do it again? Yeah, I think so. We won’t be back in Antarctica anytime soon; however, I must confess I’ve been looking lustfully at a tour of the New Zealand Subantarctic Islands. I would say after this tour that we are more likely to do a similar one than not, its just the combination of Covid and importantly responsible adulting that’s holding us back!

tennislover9

This is a great report Hut of a place not often visited. Thank you for sharing!

wakesetter93

Fantastic report! Looking forward to the rest

Hut

When we woke, we found ourselves at Useful Island – a place named by whalers who used it to spot whales in the Gerlache Strait. The plan was to head ashore and check out the rookeries on the island, then head over to Cuverville Island in the afternoon, followed by a BBQ for dinner. Today, would be a day all about penguins!



As we headed down for breakfast a Navy ship was loitering in the distance – a reminder that while largely uninhibited, there are still many unsettled claims over the territory.



Also spotted out the window were the kayakers who must have been up for an early breakfast to get a head start…



… and they had put in some serious work before we were even out of bed!

Useful Island
64°42′58″S, 62°52′18″W



After a leisurely breakfast, we took the easy option to the island. This would be our first visit to a serious rookery and there was quite the smell. At first, it was very potent! We adjusted quicky and after ten minutes you didn’t really notice it… One of the guides suggested after a day or two, we wouldn’t smell it until we’d arrived home and were reopening our suitcase!



Atop a little mound of stones, sat a penguin looking after their eggs. These are super important earlier in the season, as they keep the eggs above the water that comes when the snow melts.



The males often use stones to attract their mate and even though it’s a bit late – there is still a lot of gifting going on… There was an equal amount of grifting, as these rocks often came from a nearby nest, along with a loud dispute over the ownership!


Understandably, if you get too close to a nest that isn’t yours… its unwelcome!


While we saw a lot of eggs, we didn’t manage to spot any chicks. They would have to wait for another day.



The rookeries were noisy places to be. The loud disputes over rocks or personal space were easy to interpret, however there were a range of less obvious calls. The guides endeavoured to decipher them where they could…



While there were a lot of gentoos, there was also a small colony of chinstrap penguins – several of which were still building nests…



Also nearby were the ever-present skuas – eyeing up their next meal. We watched as one flew away with an egg its mouth… it’s a bit sad, but that’s nature, I guess!



The penguins were amazing to watch and seemed totally unconcerned about us. They would often walk right past and a few inquisitive ones would even come and pull at your pants!



It snowed pretty much all morning and after a couple of hours we were ready to head back to the ship. On all the landings, the crew brought ashore enough gear for us to be suck there for a while…



We never needed any of them, but I guess its comforting to know they plan for these things.

After lunch, we were all called to lecture theatre for a mandatory briefing. It turns out that during our morning at Useful Island – one of the expeditioners picked up a penguin and posed with it for a few photos.

You could tell that the expedition crew were incredibly upset at what had happened and made it very clear that we were not to disturb the wildlife. After 26 years running these tours, apparently this was the first time an Aurora passenger had broken the rules. The person responsible wouldn’t be leaving the ship in the afternoon and if anyone else was seen doing something similar – they wouldn’t get off the ship for the rest of the voyage.

It was quite the meeting as the expedition crew seemed sad, while I think the feeling among the expeditioners was much closer to anger. The first question was why rest of the voyage ban wouldn’t apply to this person from today…

Cuverville Island
64°41′01″S, 62°37′37″W



We saw some very welcome hints of blue sky as we approached Cuverville. We’d learnt that the heated bathroom floors were excellent at drying out our gear. So, after a snowy morning, they were warm and dry for our afternoon outing.



On the trip in, our guide pointed out the good spots to visit and navigated around some grounded bits of ice!



There was an endless stream of penguins coming and going, and we had to be careful as we arrived. With so much traffic, you could easily find yourself in the way.



Also on the beach, were the remains of several large whales, likely here from the whaling days.



After exploring along the beach, we headed up towards the rookery at the top…



… which had a great view over the bay and of the bad weather receding in the distance.



There, we watched as the rocks were stolen – in what appears is a closed system with no rocks entering or leaving – just moving from one nest to another.



Sitting under a small clearing of blue sky made for a lovely afternoon. We spent it just watching the penguins doing their thing.



Unfortunately, it didn’t look like any eggs had hatched yet… so we would have to be patient waiting to see our first chicks.



This was the only landing where the clock ran out before we wanted to go. We’d spent three hours exploring when it was time to head back.



On the beach, there was still lots to see, the endless stream of curious penguins could keep you busy for hours!



It was a beautiful afternoon just sitting on the beach, waiting our turn for a ride back to the ship. There were penguins coming and going, ice washing ashore and sea birds in the air. It was so much more that the brochure suggested it would be.



Eventually, it was our turn and our guide navigated the ice…



… as we headed back to the ship.



On the top deck, behind the observation lounge – was the BBQ area. It seemed like wasted space for most of the journey – but on the one night we had a BBQ – it showed its value.



There was a BBQ, plus all the sides you’d expect and very indulgent dessert selection.



As everyone arrived, we got to choose a fancy hat as the party got underway.



It was great fun, there was good music, some very average dancing and a real sense of community.



It was pretty surreal, just hanging out at a BBQ, in Antarctica. The background was amazing and there were a few whales to be seen in the distance.



We stayed up long enough for the sun to head towards the horizon, before heading off to deal with all the penguin photos… seriously, I can’t believe how many penguin photos we took!

Fredrik74

I can believe how many pictures you took. I wonder if you took less pictures the longer the trip went on?

Btw,
no words for how stupid some people can be.

13901

Loved the penguins! This has been the best part of your report in my view: besides the photos, I could really feel how much you liked the Useful Island stop.

I'm beyond words for the behaviour of the person who picked up the penguin. If I'd been the cruise ship management team I'd have forced him/her to delete any photos they'd taken of that... otherwise it's just a question of time before said snap comes on to Instagram and lo and behold you'll have loads of cretins doing the same.

offerendum

Very cool with this little friends!

lhrpete

Wow, what an amazing trip and top notch report. Thank you!

As ever, this is now somewhere else I want to go...

Hut

We were up early for a trip through the Lemaire Channel, affectionally know as the Kodak Passage from back in the day when you paid a small cost for every photo! We’d then go for a zodiac cruise around Pleneau Island followed by a landing at Paradise Harbour.



We were fortunate to have great weather as we approached and while ice can block the channel, today it was expected to be passable.



Everyone was out on deck to take in the experience, even when it was below 0 and a little windy!



It was easy to understand how in times past, more than a few rolls of film would disappear. It was a picturesque start to the day and one we are unlikely to forget!



We spent the hour it took to navigate the channel, mainly standing in awe and remembering to snap the odd photo. The light was amazing, as were the sheer cliffs and a couple of humpbacks which were heading in the other direction.



Meanwhile, the ship’s crew were working hard to either avoid the ice, or meet it head on with a crash!

Pleneau Bay
65°06’S, 64°03’W



After exiting the channel, we headed down for breakfast and then jumped into the zodiacs for a morning cruise around Pleneau Island.



When I first read about this kind of tour, I imagined the zodiac cruises would be boring and the thing you’d do when you couldn’t get ashore… I was very wrong!



They gave us quality time with the guides and we to explore the continent from a different perspective. Today, it was all about the bergy bits.



Sometimes, other boats would spot something interesting and we’d all head over to take a look. We heard there was a [?crabeater] seal over the radio and agreed it was worth a look.



Getting there was interesting, the guidance given was to head a few of miles north of the ship and then turn right at the Sydney Opera House. We weren’t sure if it would be that obvious, but we all knew it when we saw it! Navigating by iceberg is lots of fun.



When we arrived, the seal raised a head to look at us before quickly going back to sleep.



We also spotted quite a few penguins, sea birds… and so many amazing ice structures.



We all spent time imagining how these came to be the shapes they were!



The light was perfect, the sea was dead flat and all you could hear was the bubbling of the ice. Plus, maybe the outboard… but kayaking looks like a lot of work!



There were so many photos, so here is a small selection!









After a couple of hours, we headed back to the ship – where zipping across the open water was just as picturesque as navigating the ice in the bay.



Once we were back abord, it was time for lunch.



As we left Pleneau, we learnt that there had been a change plans. We would be heading further south to Petermann Island as the sea ice was better than expected.



The weather continued to be amazing…



… with great light and calm seas. It was magical out on deck.



Every now and again there would be a light thump as we broke apart some ice on the bow.


I tired to get a video, but it was super windy… So, here’s a very bad one!



The way the cliffs reflected off the water, and the light off the icebergs… it was spectacular.



Out in the distance were whales… and sea ice. But, it looked like the approach to Petermann Island was clear.

Petermann Island
65°10′32″S, 64°08′08″W



The first thing you notice on the way in is the Argentinian emergency hut. We were unable to take a look inside due to penguins nesting in the doorway!



There wasn’t really a beach here, just rocks forming a little cove – which was full of penguins and a couple of seals…



Once we landed on the rocks, there was the hustle and bustle of penguins coming and going. With seals in the area you’d see them all leap out of the water at the same time, and then after a couple of minutes decide timidly that the time was right to return to the water.



There were also some flying penguins, at least temporarily, while they took the short way to the water.



Along with the Gentoos, there was also a colony of Adelie Penguins, with a few coming and going.



As we explored the island, we learn some of its history – including the story of John Coll, Kevin Ockleton and Ambrose Morgan, who were members of the British Antarctic Survey and forever lost in the sea ice.



As we neared the Adelie colony, we saw our first chicks! It was super exciting, and they looked so small and fragile.



They were like most young birds, very vocal about the need for their parents to feed them… so we saw quite a bit of feeding!



When they weren’t being fed, they spent most of their time tucked under a parent – lest they become a skua meal.



Initially, the plan was to spend 4 hours on the land exploring. However, this was cut short after a couple of hours as the calving ice we’d been hearing from the glacier across the channel was starting to accumulate – and it was between us and our exit to the north. Not helping was the weather closing in, so unfortunately, our time watching the chicks was cut short.



As we were quickly shuttled back to the ship, we could see the captain pacing backwards and forward on the bridge…



Getting back was easier said than done…


… requiring teamwork to keep the ice out of the way.



With one last look at the penguins on the rocks, it was our turn to leave.



On the way out, we had an extended tour of the ice, as we got beached with a large chunk of ice under the zodiac. With a bit of manoeuvring and a lot of noise from the engine, we were off. It was an adventurous and a rough ride through the brash ice as we returned to the ship.



As the zodiacs were quickly packed away, a couple of seals jumped onto some nearby ice to watch. We were soon leaving them behind us as we headed back the way we came.



Although we’d come through a few hours earlier, it looked very different in the overcast weather.


Plus, there was a bit more ice to break.



Once we were back in open water, there was an evening recap of the last few days. We went over the different penguins and seals we’d seen – along with learning about Toby the Polar Pig. A pig that went on not one but two Antarctic expeditions!

Hut

No, if anything it went the other way... We were drowning in photos by the end!

Yeah, there was a very clear direction that any photos needed to be sent to the Aurora team and then deleted. Apparently, incidents like this result in a mandatory report to IAATO and hopefully lessons are learnt that will help prevent future incidents.

13901

Lemaire Channel looks amazing. Thank you so much for this TR Hut, it's incredible.

SFO777

Absolutely stunning. Thanks for the amazing pics.

the phoenix

Thanks for taking the time to post all the details and photos. I used to share a lot back in her day before kids and know the work involved! Much appreciated! And they should castrate the Penguin picker upper! 😎

SKT-DK

Absolutely spectacular! Must truly be an adventure of a lifetime - thanks for sharing your story and all your beautiful pictures!