Big Cats, Fast Cars and a Stolen Phone: Southern Africa, Portugal and Brazil
Nov 27, 2019, 5:40 pm
#31
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Central Florida
Programs: UA, IHG
Posts: 464
As you might see from the photos I shared, as long as you are not there during the peak of the peak, you would still get to see the Falls.
It was sad to read about the rhinoceros being hunted to extinction and having to be guarded with weapons and have to survive in a very artificial environment :-( I'm glad we saw free-range ones in Pilanesberg!
If the elephants really want to attack, even barbed electric fences won't stop them. The Elephant Whisperer is a lovely book that details wild elephant behaviour.
How bad is the threat of mosquitoes? I was a bit worried at Vic Falls because the place we stayed didn't have mosquito nets and though it was winter over there, I could still hear the hum of the dratted bloodsucking pests!
It was sad to read about the rhinoceros being hunted to extinction and having to be guarded with weapons and have to survive in a very artificial environment :-( I'm glad we saw free-range ones in Pilanesberg!
If the elephants really want to attack, even barbed electric fences won't stop them. The Elephant Whisperer is a lovely book that details wild elephant behaviour.
How bad is the threat of mosquitoes? I was a bit worried at Vic Falls because the place we stayed didn't have mosquito nets and though it was winter over there, I could still hear the hum of the dratted bloodsucking pests!
Nov 28, 2019, 9:00 am
#32
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: PVD, BOS
Programs: AA EXP
Posts: 1,664
Mosquitoes were definitely present in Kasane and Zambia at night. I wore insect repellent at night and also took Malarone during the trip. The places I stayed in the region generally had mosquito nets on the beds.
Nov 29, 2019, 9:05 am
#33
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: PVD, BOS
Programs: AA EXP
Posts: 1,664
Proflight Zambia Economy Class: Livingstone - Lusaka
Proflight Zambia
Economy Class
P0701: LVI-LUN (Livingstone to Lusaka)
10 Nov 2019
BAE Jetstream 41
9J-PCX
Seat 3A
Departure:8:50AM 9:30AM
Arrival:10:00AM 10:40AM
Around 5:00PM the afternoon before this flight, I received an email from the Proflight ground agent in Livingstone informing me that the LVI-LUN flight had been retimed to 9:30AM for operational reasons. As a result, my connection in LUN shrank from 65 minutes to 25 minutes. Obviously, a 25min connection is well below the MCT; no need to check with EF to confirm that one. Accordingly, I became a bit concerned about my connecting slight to LLW. I really didn't want to be stuck overnight in Lusaka.
I did some checking on Google Flights for alternatives to LLW. There were none. Though there were alternatives that would get me to JNB. Since cell service was nil at the hotel, I asked the valet to call Proflight for guidance. They couldn't reach anyone at the airline, but told me this happens often and it should be fine. So I decided to do nothing and deal with it at the airport on the day of the flight.
The next morning after breakfast, I checked out of the hotel and got a ride to the airport some 30min away. The airport terminal was new and clean, which was pleasant surprise. Upon check-in, I inquired about my connection. The check-in agent told me not to worry. There were others on my flight in this situation and they'd hold the flight for us. Perfect. This definitely isn't how I'm used to this situation being handled, but I suppose that's a benefit of flying a small airline.
LUN Airside Shops
LUN Airside
I turned up at the airport about 90 minutes prior to the flight, which was more than enough time. This was the flight I'd been concerned about for months. Due to their strictly enforced 5kg carry-on bag limit, I was waiting for them to weight my bag and anxious that I'd be under the limit. Checking my camera gear was a non-starter. In the end, there was nothing to worry about. They never even weighed my bag. I saw another passenger with a 50L Shimoda camera backpack who was allowed to carry it on to the plane, so it would appear enforcement is very lax.
It took no more than 5 minutes to pick up my boarding pass, go through security and get airside. Since P0 uses the international terminal, I also passed through immigration. However since I was flying domestically, they just waved me though without checking anything.
Once airside, there's not much to do. One or two shops and the cafe were open. I'd already eaten and didn't want to buy anything, so I caught up on some emails. Luckily, Zamtel has decent service at the airport.
9J-PCX
This was my first time on this aircraft type and I'm not a fan. I much prefer something like the Q100, ATR42 or Saab 340. Heck, even a Cessna 208 is more comfortable. The cabin on the BAE Jetstream 41 is very cramped. The seats are maybe 17 inches wide, possibly less; definitely the narrowest seat I've flown. There are no overhead bins, so bags must fit under the seat. Luckily, my bag just barely fit under the seat.
It turned out to be a good thing my bag fit under the seat. Though the fellow with the large camera backpack was allowed to store it in the closet, two men from Europe hadn't been allowed to bring their baggage on the plane at all. Instead, the ground agent told them they'd be sending the bags to Lusaka by bus. The men were displeased, as they were connecting at LUN and thus the bags would have to somehow be forwarded to Europe eventually (if ever). That was the exact situation I wanted to avoid at all costs.
Other than that, the flight was quite nice. The cabin crew was very friendly and he served a snack and drink (breakfast biscuits and juice), though I declined. Overall, it was quite a nice flight.
Narrow and Shallow
Not much width or pitch on this plane
Boarding
View from 3A
The seats are so narrow, they don't have armrests
Zambia
Lusaka
Upon landing in Lusaka, I hustled into the terminal because I had precious little time until my next flight was set to board.
Lusaka
Economy Class
P0701: LVI-LUN (Livingstone to Lusaka)
10 Nov 2019
BAE Jetstream 41
9J-PCX
Seat 3A
Departure:
Arrival:
Around 5:00PM the afternoon before this flight, I received an email from the Proflight ground agent in Livingstone informing me that the LVI-LUN flight had been retimed to 9:30AM for operational reasons. As a result, my connection in LUN shrank from 65 minutes to 25 minutes. Obviously, a 25min connection is well below the MCT; no need to check with EF to confirm that one. Accordingly, I became a bit concerned about my connecting slight to LLW. I really didn't want to be stuck overnight in Lusaka.
I did some checking on Google Flights for alternatives to LLW. There were none. Though there were alternatives that would get me to JNB. Since cell service was nil at the hotel, I asked the valet to call Proflight for guidance. They couldn't reach anyone at the airline, but told me this happens often and it should be fine. So I decided to do nothing and deal with it at the airport on the day of the flight.
The next morning after breakfast, I checked out of the hotel and got a ride to the airport some 30min away. The airport terminal was new and clean, which was pleasant surprise. Upon check-in, I inquired about my connection. The check-in agent told me not to worry. There were others on my flight in this situation and they'd hold the flight for us. Perfect. This definitely isn't how I'm used to this situation being handled, but I suppose that's a benefit of flying a small airline.
LUN Airside Shops
LUN Airside
I turned up at the airport about 90 minutes prior to the flight, which was more than enough time. This was the flight I'd been concerned about for months. Due to their strictly enforced 5kg carry-on bag limit, I was waiting for them to weight my bag and anxious that I'd be under the limit. Checking my camera gear was a non-starter. In the end, there was nothing to worry about. They never even weighed my bag. I saw another passenger with a 50L Shimoda camera backpack who was allowed to carry it on to the plane, so it would appear enforcement is very lax.
It took no more than 5 minutes to pick up my boarding pass, go through security and get airside. Since P0 uses the international terminal, I also passed through immigration. However since I was flying domestically, they just waved me though without checking anything.
Once airside, there's not much to do. One or two shops and the cafe were open. I'd already eaten and didn't want to buy anything, so I caught up on some emails. Luckily, Zamtel has decent service at the airport.
9J-PCX
This was my first time on this aircraft type and I'm not a fan. I much prefer something like the Q100, ATR42 or Saab 340. Heck, even a Cessna 208 is more comfortable. The cabin on the BAE Jetstream 41 is very cramped. The seats are maybe 17 inches wide, possibly less; definitely the narrowest seat I've flown. There are no overhead bins, so bags must fit under the seat. Luckily, my bag just barely fit under the seat.
It turned out to be a good thing my bag fit under the seat. Though the fellow with the large camera backpack was allowed to store it in the closet, two men from Europe hadn't been allowed to bring their baggage on the plane at all. Instead, the ground agent told them they'd be sending the bags to Lusaka by bus. The men were displeased, as they were connecting at LUN and thus the bags would have to somehow be forwarded to Europe eventually (if ever). That was the exact situation I wanted to avoid at all costs.
Other than that, the flight was quite nice. The cabin crew was very friendly and he served a snack and drink (breakfast biscuits and juice), though I declined. Overall, it was quite a nice flight.
Narrow and Shallow
Not much width or pitch on this plane
Boarding
View from 3A
The seats are so narrow, they don't have armrests
Zambia
Lusaka
Upon landing in Lusaka, I hustled into the terminal because I had precious little time until my next flight was set to board.
Lusaka
Last edited by swingaling; Nov 29, 2019 at 9:27 am
Nov 29, 2019, 9:20 am
#34
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: PVD, BOS
Programs: AA EXP
Posts: 1,664
Proflight Zambia Economy Class: Lusaka - Lilongwe
Proflight Zambia
Economy Class
P014: LUN-LLW (Lusaka to Lilongwe)
10 Nov 2019
BAE Jetstream 41
9J-PCY
Seat 3A
Departure: 11:05AM
Arrival: 12:35PM
I was anxious to catch this flight, so I made it through immigration and security in record time. It took perhaps 5 minutes from deplaning until I was in the departure holding area. When I arrived in the somewhat austere departure area, the gate for my flight hadn't yet opened and there were only a few other pax around. So despite the tight connection, I really had no reason to be at all concerned. After a few minutes, the final security checkpoint opened and we were allowed to proceed to the gate.
As with the previous flight, at no time was there any weighing of cabin baggage. Boarding proceeded smoothly and we caught a bus to the plane. The layout on this plane was identical to the previous one.
9J-PCY
Leaving Lusaka
The loads were a bit lighter on this flight, but it was just as tight inside.
Seat 3A Again
Another snack service. This time is was chips and juice/water. The choice of chips was between cheese and onion and fruit chutney. Fruit chutney seemed like a strange flavor for chips, so I went with the cheese.
Snack Service
Inflight
We landed at LLW on time and I proceeded through immigration. The immigration process was very slow. The process was entirely manual and it took a few minutes to process each person. The whole thing took 30 minutes or more before I was free. I exchanged some money (the ATMs didn't work) and purchased a SIM for my phone.
I'd arranged for a city tour and the tour guide was supposed to pick me up at the airport. I waited around, but never could find him. My calls and emails to the tour operator were unanswered because it was a Sunday. Instead of hanging around forever, I grabbed a taxi and headed to my hotel to check-in. On the way to the hotel, the tour operator called me and told me the guide was at the airport waiting for me. Since I'd already left, I asked him to come collect me at my hotel instead.
A somewhat annoying way to begin the visit to Malawi, but not the end of the world.
LLW Airport
Economy Class
P014: LUN-LLW (Lusaka to Lilongwe)
10 Nov 2019
BAE Jetstream 41
9J-PCY
Seat 3A
Departure: 11:05AM
Arrival: 12:35PM
I was anxious to catch this flight, so I made it through immigration and security in record time. It took perhaps 5 minutes from deplaning until I was in the departure holding area. When I arrived in the somewhat austere departure area, the gate for my flight hadn't yet opened and there were only a few other pax around. So despite the tight connection, I really had no reason to be at all concerned. After a few minutes, the final security checkpoint opened and we were allowed to proceed to the gate.
As with the previous flight, at no time was there any weighing of cabin baggage. Boarding proceeded smoothly and we caught a bus to the plane. The layout on this plane was identical to the previous one.
9J-PCY
Leaving Lusaka
The loads were a bit lighter on this flight, but it was just as tight inside.
Seat 3A Again
Another snack service. This time is was chips and juice/water. The choice of chips was between cheese and onion and fruit chutney. Fruit chutney seemed like a strange flavor for chips, so I went with the cheese.
Snack Service
Inflight
We landed at LLW on time and I proceeded through immigration. The immigration process was very slow. The process was entirely manual and it took a few minutes to process each person. The whole thing took 30 minutes or more before I was free. I exchanged some money (the ATMs didn't work) and purchased a SIM for my phone.
I'd arranged for a city tour and the tour guide was supposed to pick me up at the airport. I waited around, but never could find him. My calls and emails to the tour operator were unanswered because it was a Sunday. Instead of hanging around forever, I grabbed a taxi and headed to my hotel to check-in. On the way to the hotel, the tour operator called me and told me the guide was at the airport waiting for me. Since I'd already left, I asked him to come collect me at my hotel instead.
A somewhat annoying way to begin the visit to Malawi, but not the end of the world.
LLW Airport
Nov 30, 2019, 8:41 am
#35
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: PVD, BOS
Programs: AA EXP
Posts: 1,664
Latitude 13
Latitude 13
Junior Suite
I had a difficult time deciding where to stay in Lilongwe. The choice was between three hotels and none looked hugely more appealing than the others. The hotel market in the city is not terribly competitive, so none of the options was a great value. I ultimately decided on Latitude 13, and it was fine overall. The hotel struggled a bit with service standards.
Hotel clientele were mainly Europeans and Americans, many of whom had been booked at the hotel by their embassy. A European military officer checked in directly before me.
Upon arrival, I completed check-in formalities, but then had to wait around for 15 minutes while they tried to determine if my room was ready (or not). Once they determined it was ready, I went to the room to find my key didn't work. So they gave me a new one and I finally go in.
Room
Room
Room
Room
Room
Room
Construction quality was not excellent. That metal locker rattled like crazy every time I walked on the floor. The floors were a single layer of planks and the staircase was a bit dodgy. The bathroom windows were very old and junky. A huge trail of ants would later stream in through the bathroom window. The bathtub drain didn't work very well. Even fully open, the bathtub filled halfway during my shower.
Room
Bathroom
Bathroom
View
Inflight Magazine?
I intended to drop my stuff before heading off for a tour of the city. However, the in room safe was locked. I asked the front desk to unlock it for me. Then I waited 5 minutes, 10 minutes. After 15 minutes, no one had showed so I brought my stuff with me and left to go on the tour.
After the tour, I returned and had room service for dinner. The food was ok, nothing special. The caesar salad was very strange and the massive amount of bacon was not anticipated or wanted. On the plus side, the room service was never added to my room bill. When I checked out, they were unable to find the order to add to my bill so they didn't charge me for it.
Caesar Salad
Burger
Fruit Salad
Powdered sugar on a fruit salad? That's a first...
Junior Suite
I had a difficult time deciding where to stay in Lilongwe. The choice was between three hotels and none looked hugely more appealing than the others. The hotel market in the city is not terribly competitive, so none of the options was a great value. I ultimately decided on Latitude 13, and it was fine overall. The hotel struggled a bit with service standards.
Hotel clientele were mainly Europeans and Americans, many of whom had been booked at the hotel by their embassy. A European military officer checked in directly before me.
Upon arrival, I completed check-in formalities, but then had to wait around for 15 minutes while they tried to determine if my room was ready (or not). Once they determined it was ready, I went to the room to find my key didn't work. So they gave me a new one and I finally go in.
Room
Room
Room
Room
Room
Room
Construction quality was not excellent. That metal locker rattled like crazy every time I walked on the floor. The floors were a single layer of planks and the staircase was a bit dodgy. The bathroom windows were very old and junky. A huge trail of ants would later stream in through the bathroom window. The bathtub drain didn't work very well. Even fully open, the bathtub filled halfway during my shower.
Room
Bathroom
Bathroom
View
Inflight Magazine?
I intended to drop my stuff before heading off for a tour of the city. However, the in room safe was locked. I asked the front desk to unlock it for me. Then I waited 5 minutes, 10 minutes. After 15 minutes, no one had showed so I brought my stuff with me and left to go on the tour.
After the tour, I returned and had room service for dinner. The food was ok, nothing special. The caesar salad was very strange and the massive amount of bacon was not anticipated or wanted. On the plus side, the room service was never added to my room bill. When I checked out, they were unable to find the order to add to my bill so they didn't charge me for it.
Caesar Salad
Burger
Fruit Salad
Powdered sugar on a fruit salad? That's a first...
Nov 30, 2019, 11:55 am
#36
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: PVD, BOS
Programs: AA EXP
Posts: 1,664
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
After finally meeting up with the guide, we set off for the Kamuzu Mausoleum.
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
The Mausoleum of Hastings Kamuzu Banda is located near the Parliament building and the Chinese-built President Walmont hotel (pictured below).
A few government tour guides staff the monument and give all tours of the building. There wasn't a whole lot to the building, so the tour consisted mainly of a rather long winded biography detailing the entire life of Hastings Kamuzu Banda.
Kamuzu Mausoleum
Kamuzu Mausoleum
Kamuzu Mausoleum
Kamuzu Mausoleum
My guide tipped the government guide at the conclusion of the tour.
Lilongwe, Malawi
Next up was the World War I Memorial. As with the Mausoleum, the tour was conducted by an on-site guide. The monument wasn't terribly interesting, but I did have the opportunity to climb to the top of the structure. The interior ladders for the final few stories were a bit questionable. Once at the top, it was quite windy, but it presented a decent view of the city.
World War I Memorial
World War I Memorial
World War I Memorial
World War I Memorial
View from the top
World War I Memorial
View from the top
World War I Memorial
View from the top
World War I Memorial
View from the top
Another Kamuzu Statue
The tour concluded with another memorized, overly detailed biography of Kamuzu. The telling was nearly word for word the same as I'd just heard at the Mausoleum. After enduring it for the second time, I told the guide that I didn't want to visit any other sites like that. So we set off into the city to check out the local open air market.
Strange Severed Arm Statue in a Roundabout
KFC
The guide cautioned against taking too many photos at the market, as it would draw undue attention. So I tried to be discreet about it. We arrived at the market around 4PM on a Sunday, so many vendors were done for the day or simply didn't work on Sundays.
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
K100 for toilet ($0.14 USD)
The two main areas of the market are separated by the Lilongwe River. The level of the river was quite low, but one still had to cross a bridge the get to the other side. The bridge was built by a few enterprising young men who continue to maintain it. In order to cross, one must pay a toll of K50 ($0.07 USD). The bridge wasn't the sturdiest structure.
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
BBQ meat stall (closed currently)
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Clothing merchant stalls
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Pool Hall
Vendors store their wares overnight in warehouses the the one below.
Lilongwe Open Air Market
In terms of safety, the main concern was drunks and gangs of feral children. Due to poverty and high AIDS/HIV rates, Malawi has a serious orphan problem. Instead of being adopted or fostered by the state, many orphaned children end up begging on the streets. They often form gangs and roam the cities committing low level violent crime (muggings, assaults, vandalism, etc). For that reason (and others), it's generally not safe to walk the streets at night.
Lilongwe, Malawi
Also saw a decent number of Chinese owned businesses.
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
The tour ended here and I headed back to the hotel for the evening, as it was getting late and I didn't want to be walking around at night.
After finally meeting up with the guide, we set off for the Kamuzu Mausoleum.
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
The Mausoleum of Hastings Kamuzu Banda is located near the Parliament building and the Chinese-built President Walmont hotel (pictured below).
A few government tour guides staff the monument and give all tours of the building. There wasn't a whole lot to the building, so the tour consisted mainly of a rather long winded biography detailing the entire life of Hastings Kamuzu Banda.
Kamuzu Mausoleum
Kamuzu Mausoleum
Kamuzu Mausoleum
Kamuzu Mausoleum
My guide tipped the government guide at the conclusion of the tour.
Lilongwe, Malawi
Next up was the World War I Memorial. As with the Mausoleum, the tour was conducted by an on-site guide. The monument wasn't terribly interesting, but I did have the opportunity to climb to the top of the structure. The interior ladders for the final few stories were a bit questionable. Once at the top, it was quite windy, but it presented a decent view of the city.
World War I Memorial
World War I Memorial
World War I Memorial
World War I Memorial
View from the top
World War I Memorial
View from the top
World War I Memorial
View from the top
World War I Memorial
View from the top
Another Kamuzu Statue
The tour concluded with another memorized, overly detailed biography of Kamuzu. The telling was nearly word for word the same as I'd just heard at the Mausoleum. After enduring it for the second time, I told the guide that I didn't want to visit any other sites like that. So we set off into the city to check out the local open air market.
Strange Severed Arm Statue in a Roundabout
KFC
The guide cautioned against taking too many photos at the market, as it would draw undue attention. So I tried to be discreet about it. We arrived at the market around 4PM on a Sunday, so many vendors were done for the day or simply didn't work on Sundays.
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
K100 for toilet ($0.14 USD)
The two main areas of the market are separated by the Lilongwe River. The level of the river was quite low, but one still had to cross a bridge the get to the other side. The bridge was built by a few enterprising young men who continue to maintain it. In order to cross, one must pay a toll of K50 ($0.07 USD). The bridge wasn't the sturdiest structure.
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
BBQ meat stall (closed currently)
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Clothing merchant stalls
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Lilongwe Open Air Market
Pool Hall
Vendors store their wares overnight in warehouses the the one below.
Lilongwe Open Air Market
In terms of safety, the main concern was drunks and gangs of feral children. Due to poverty and high AIDS/HIV rates, Malawi has a serious orphan problem. Instead of being adopted or fostered by the state, many orphaned children end up begging on the streets. They often form gangs and roam the cities committing low level violent crime (muggings, assaults, vandalism, etc). For that reason (and others), it's generally not safe to walk the streets at night.
Lilongwe, Malawi
Also saw a decent number of Chinese owned businesses.
Lilongwe, Malawi
Lilongwe, Malawi
The tour ended here and I headed back to the hotel for the evening, as it was getting late and I didn't want to be walking around at night.
Nov 30, 2019, 12:47 pm
#37
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: PVD, BOS
Programs: AA EXP
Posts: 1,664
Malawian Airlines Business Class: Lilongwe - Johannesburg
Malawian Airlines
Business Class
3W20: LLW-JNB (Lilongwe to Johannesburg)
11 Nov 2019
Boeing 737-700
ET-ARB
Seat 2A
Departure: 9:20AM
Arrival: 11:35AM
I arranged for the hotel to drop me at the airport, as they charge essentially the same price as taxis.
Originally, I'd booked this flight (also called ET20) as a direct LLW-JNB with a short stop in Blantyre (BLZ) to take on additional passengers. I'd even considered staying in Blantyre instead of Lilongwe, though it's good I didn't. Due to ongoing runway construction in BLZ, my flight was retimed to 9:20AM (from 8:20AM) and the stop at BLZ was dropped.
As with the arrival process, the departure process at LLW is terribly inefficient (baffling so at times). Here's how it goes.
1. Security x-ray and metal detector scans to get into the building.
2. Show passport to police checkpoint and get directed to check-in desks 100m away.
3. Check-in.
Detour to Check-in Counters
Even the check-in process is a bit convoluted. For instance, 3W had three check-in counters in the terminal (all manned). The business class counter was strictly for the JNB flight (for J & Y classes). The Economy counter was for domestic flights only. The third counter attendant was just sitting there doing nothing. Of course, signage doesn't reflect this. Nevertheless, I managed to check-in and continue onward.
4. Backtrack to the same police checkpoint and present boarding pass to gain entry to airside area.
Backtracking from Check-in Counters
5. Immigration check.
6. Security checkpoint with x-ray and metal detector.
7. Manual bag inspection by police.
8. Obtain stamp on boarding pass.
9. Hand boarding pass and passport to document inspector located some 3m away from the man who stamped it in the first place...
10. Done.
Once I was in the departure gate area, I learned that my flight would be delayed somewhat. The inbound flight was late owing to its late departure from NBO stemming from a paperwork issue. Even with a 12hr ground stop in NBO, they couldn't manage to get the paperwork sorted on time.... But I digress.
At Least the Signage is Clear
Ndege Business Class Lounge
Ndege Business Class Lounge
Decent Views
Not sure why someone installed a TV but didn't bother unwrapping it...
Ndege Business Class Lounge
Ndege Business Class Lounge
Ndege Business Class Lounge
Ndege Business Class Lounge
Glass bottles of Fanta, Coke and Malta Tonic
Ndege Business Class Lounge
Carlsberg and Booster
There was also a small selection of food (chips and oranges) and booze.
Ndege Business Class Lounge
A few hot beverage choices and some pastry choices. The pastries didn't look terribly enticing. Though they were setup for hot food, there was none on offer.
Ndege Business Class Lounge
So I had a Fanta and some chips.
Ndege Business Class Lounge
One plus, was boarding commenced from the lounge. The bus came to get the three of us in the lounge. The other two dallied and missed the bus. The bus was already jammed full of economy pax, so I had to squeeze myself in.
Ndege Business Class Lounge
ET-ARB
As usual, I was in seat 2A (my generally preferred seat). The seats up front were a typical regional J 2+2 configuration. The cabin had 16 seats, but only 4 were occupied. The rest of the plane was a bit more full.
Seat 2A
J Cabin
J Cabin
The seat back safety card even had our tail number on it. Not all that hard given 3W has a single 737.
Safety Card for Malawi (Malawian) Airlines
Branding isn't terribly consistent. They variably use the names Malawi and Malawian.
Good Leg Room
The seats even came equipped with power outlets.
Power Outlets
The captain came over the PA before takeoff to apologize for the late departure and explain the general reasons. We departed as soon as possible to make up whatever time we could. Once in the air, the meal service commenced. I must add that the cabin crew were very friendly and courteous, and overall the service was great.
Meal Time
Bread
There was no breakfast menu, but the offering was pretty decent. The main was two fried eggs, beans, pork sausage, fries, tomato and mushrooms. It all tasted fine and I was quite satisfied with it.
Breakfast Service
We ultimately landed at JNB about 25 minutes late at 12:00PM. Immigration and customs were very quick. Once landside, I got some cash, a SIM card and some road snacks/drinks before heading to Avis to get my rental car.
Business Class
3W20: LLW-JNB (Lilongwe to Johannesburg)
11 Nov 2019
Boeing 737-700
ET-ARB
Seat 2A
Departure: 9:20AM
Arrival: 11:35AM
I arranged for the hotel to drop me at the airport, as they charge essentially the same price as taxis.
Originally, I'd booked this flight (also called ET20) as a direct LLW-JNB with a short stop in Blantyre (BLZ) to take on additional passengers. I'd even considered staying in Blantyre instead of Lilongwe, though it's good I didn't. Due to ongoing runway construction in BLZ, my flight was retimed to 9:20AM (from 8:20AM) and the stop at BLZ was dropped.
As with the arrival process, the departure process at LLW is terribly inefficient (baffling so at times). Here's how it goes.
1. Security x-ray and metal detector scans to get into the building.
2. Show passport to police checkpoint and get directed to check-in desks 100m away.
3. Check-in.
Detour to Check-in Counters
Even the check-in process is a bit convoluted. For instance, 3W had three check-in counters in the terminal (all manned). The business class counter was strictly for the JNB flight (for J & Y classes). The Economy counter was for domestic flights only. The third counter attendant was just sitting there doing nothing. Of course, signage doesn't reflect this. Nevertheless, I managed to check-in and continue onward.
4. Backtrack to the same police checkpoint and present boarding pass to gain entry to airside area.
Backtracking from Check-in Counters
5. Immigration check.
6. Security checkpoint with x-ray and metal detector.
7. Manual bag inspection by police.
8. Obtain stamp on boarding pass.
9. Hand boarding pass and passport to document inspector located some 3m away from the man who stamped it in the first place...
10. Done.
Once I was in the departure gate area, I learned that my flight would be delayed somewhat. The inbound flight was late owing to its late departure from NBO stemming from a paperwork issue. Even with a 12hr ground stop in NBO, they couldn't manage to get the paperwork sorted on time.... But I digress.
At Least the Signage is Clear
Ndege Business Class Lounge
Ndege Business Class Lounge
Decent Views
Not sure why someone installed a TV but didn't bother unwrapping it...
Ndege Business Class Lounge
Ndege Business Class Lounge
Ndege Business Class Lounge
Ndege Business Class Lounge
Glass bottles of Fanta, Coke and Malta Tonic
Ndege Business Class Lounge
Carlsberg and Booster
There was also a small selection of food (chips and oranges) and booze.
Ndege Business Class Lounge
A few hot beverage choices and some pastry choices. The pastries didn't look terribly enticing. Though they were setup for hot food, there was none on offer.
Ndege Business Class Lounge
So I had a Fanta and some chips.
Ndege Business Class Lounge
One plus, was boarding commenced from the lounge. The bus came to get the three of us in the lounge. The other two dallied and missed the bus. The bus was already jammed full of economy pax, so I had to squeeze myself in.
Ndege Business Class Lounge
ET-ARB
As usual, I was in seat 2A (my generally preferred seat). The seats up front were a typical regional J 2+2 configuration. The cabin had 16 seats, but only 4 were occupied. The rest of the plane was a bit more full.
Seat 2A
J Cabin
J Cabin
The seat back safety card even had our tail number on it. Not all that hard given 3W has a single 737.
Safety Card for Malawi (Malawian) Airlines
Branding isn't terribly consistent. They variably use the names Malawi and Malawian.
Good Leg Room
The seats even came equipped with power outlets.
Power Outlets
The captain came over the PA before takeoff to apologize for the late departure and explain the general reasons. We departed as soon as possible to make up whatever time we could. Once in the air, the meal service commenced. I must add that the cabin crew were very friendly and courteous, and overall the service was great.
Meal Time
Bread
There was no breakfast menu, but the offering was pretty decent. The main was two fried eggs, beans, pork sausage, fries, tomato and mushrooms. It all tasted fine and I was quite satisfied with it.
Breakfast Service
We ultimately landed at JNB about 25 minutes late at 12:00PM. Immigration and customs were very quick. Once landside, I got some cash, a SIM card and some road snacks/drinks before heading to Avis to get my rental car.
Nov 30, 2019, 1:14 pm
#38
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Central Florida
Programs: UA, IHG
Posts: 464
Last year, the DOH-JNB flight we were on had a boatload of missionaries (from the USA) headed to Malawi. Did you spot any during your trip there? Do they go somewhere in the hinterland - i.e., not the Capital?
From your description, it appears that Malawi is a Bah Humbug kinda country. Or do you think it would appear different if you were to have gone to Lake Malawi itself? [Needless to say, I haven't researched this country, so am curious] Those missionaries that we had spoken with - they were families - were all excited to be going there.
Wow! Driving in JNB. You are definitely much braver than I was! Looking forward to reading about those experiences.
From your description, it appears that Malawi is a Bah Humbug kinda country. Or do you think it would appear different if you were to have gone to Lake Malawi itself? [Needless to say, I haven't researched this country, so am curious] Those missionaries that we had spoken with - they were families - were all excited to be going there.
Wow! Driving in JNB. You are definitely much braver than I was! Looking forward to reading about those experiences.
Nov 30, 2019, 1:32 pm
#39
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: PVD, BOS
Programs: AA EXP
Posts: 1,664
Driving: Johannesburg to Piggs Peak
Driving: Johannesburg to Piggs Peak
For this segment of the trip, I decided that it would make the most sense for me to drive. I wanted to visit Swaziland en route to Mozambique, but doing so via plane was inefficient and overly time consuming. The reason being that there were no flights between Manzini (SHO) and Maputo (MPM). In order to accomplish this, I'd have to connect at JNB between each sector. So I decided to drive. Initially I figured I'd self-drive from Swaziland to Maputo on a one-way rental. Unfortunately, I found this was generally not possible. Rental car companies did not want their cars going to Mozambique. Instead I found a South African tour operator who could take me to Maputo and give me a short tour. But I'm getting ahead of myself.
This was the second time I'd driven in South Africa, so I knew what to expect. I've generally found that driving in South Africa is quite straightforward. I'd read about the four way stop being confusing for some, but I assume that applies to UK and European drivers. The four way stops in SA function just the same as they do where I live (first come, first served). I was also looking forward to doing some Yellow Lane Driving. As a bonus, the turn signal stalk is on the correct side of the steering column (unlike in NZ).
I was in and out of Avis pretty quickly, as I was able to use the Avis Preferred lanes. I think I have the base level of Avis status, so it's nice to be able to use the priority lanes. It easily saved me 30-40 minutes at JNB. I grabbed my car, a Nissan X-Trail, and started off on the 5hr drive to Swaziland. I very much wanted to reach my hotel before sunset (6:30PM), so I was on a somewhat tight schedule.
The Route
The drive was fairly uneventful. I kept my speed to no more than 10 kph over the limit so as to not get a speeding ticket. It wasn't so much the fine, as the time delay I'd incur if stopped. Luckily, there were no more than a handful of speed traps in SA and none in Swaziland.
South Africa
I stopped at a rest area to grab a burger before continuing. Definitely the slowest fast food restaurant I'd seen. Took a solid 10 minutes to produce a cheeseburger.
Lunch
South Africa
South Africa
South Africa
South Africa
South Africa
As I approached Swaziland, the elevation increased and I encountered pine forests planted by the logging industry.
South Africa
South Africa
South Africa
The sunny skies gave way to dense fog. But it soon let up when I descended somewhat.
South Africa
South Africa
South Africa
South Africa
South Africa
Eventually, I made it to the border crossing. I'd even gotten to do some Yellow Lane Driving.
I exited SA and then entered Swaziland. I had to pay a small road toll to Swaziland, but there was no visa fee. The process was quite easy.
Swaziland
Swaziland
After a couple exits, I was off the freeway and on to a smaller road. The road quality declined rapidly at this point. There were huge potholes frequently and many other obstacles, like livestock and children. Some local towns also had the incredibly annoying habit of placing huge speedbumps in the road, but posting zero signage warning motorists of them. I hit one or two at around 60kph and it was distinctly unpleasant. Thankfully, I was driving a rented vehicle and I'd purchased the $0 damage waiver.
Though the road conditions were annoying, the scenery was quite nice.
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Stone Carver
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Cow Crossing
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Massive Potholes
Swaziland
Swaziland
More Pine Forests
Swaziland
KFC
Piggs Peak
Piggs Peak
Piggs Peak
Piggs Peak
Once I passed through Piggs Peak, I was almost at my destination for the evening.
For this segment of the trip, I decided that it would make the most sense for me to drive. I wanted to visit Swaziland en route to Mozambique, but doing so via plane was inefficient and overly time consuming. The reason being that there were no flights between Manzini (SHO) and Maputo (MPM). In order to accomplish this, I'd have to connect at JNB between each sector. So I decided to drive. Initially I figured I'd self-drive from Swaziland to Maputo on a one-way rental. Unfortunately, I found this was generally not possible. Rental car companies did not want their cars going to Mozambique. Instead I found a South African tour operator who could take me to Maputo and give me a short tour. But I'm getting ahead of myself.
This was the second time I'd driven in South Africa, so I knew what to expect. I've generally found that driving in South Africa is quite straightforward. I'd read about the four way stop being confusing for some, but I assume that applies to UK and European drivers. The four way stops in SA function just the same as they do where I live (first come, first served). I was also looking forward to doing some Yellow Lane Driving. As a bonus, the turn signal stalk is on the correct side of the steering column (unlike in NZ).
I was in and out of Avis pretty quickly, as I was able to use the Avis Preferred lanes. I think I have the base level of Avis status, so it's nice to be able to use the priority lanes. It easily saved me 30-40 minutes at JNB. I grabbed my car, a Nissan X-Trail, and started off on the 5hr drive to Swaziland. I very much wanted to reach my hotel before sunset (6:30PM), so I was on a somewhat tight schedule.
The Route
The drive was fairly uneventful. I kept my speed to no more than 10 kph over the limit so as to not get a speeding ticket. It wasn't so much the fine, as the time delay I'd incur if stopped. Luckily, there were no more than a handful of speed traps in SA and none in Swaziland.
South Africa
I stopped at a rest area to grab a burger before continuing. Definitely the slowest fast food restaurant I'd seen. Took a solid 10 minutes to produce a cheeseburger.
Lunch
South Africa
South Africa
South Africa
South Africa
South Africa
As I approached Swaziland, the elevation increased and I encountered pine forests planted by the logging industry.
South Africa
South Africa
South Africa
The sunny skies gave way to dense fog. But it soon let up when I descended somewhat.
South Africa
South Africa
South Africa
South Africa
South Africa
Eventually, I made it to the border crossing. I'd even gotten to do some Yellow Lane Driving.
I exited SA and then entered Swaziland. I had to pay a small road toll to Swaziland, but there was no visa fee. The process was quite easy.
Swaziland
Swaziland
After a couple exits, I was off the freeway and on to a smaller road. The road quality declined rapidly at this point. There were huge potholes frequently and many other obstacles, like livestock and children. Some local towns also had the incredibly annoying habit of placing huge speedbumps in the road, but posting zero signage warning motorists of them. I hit one or two at around 60kph and it was distinctly unpleasant. Thankfully, I was driving a rented vehicle and I'd purchased the $0 damage waiver.
Though the road conditions were annoying, the scenery was quite nice.
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Stone Carver
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Cow Crossing
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Swaziland
Massive Potholes
Swaziland
Swaziland
More Pine Forests
Swaziland
KFC
Piggs Peak
Piggs Peak
Piggs Peak
Piggs Peak
Once I passed through Piggs Peak, I was almost at my destination for the evening.
Last edited by swingaling; Nov 30, 2019 at 2:26 pm
Nov 30, 2019, 1:52 pm
#40
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: PVD, BOS
Programs: AA EXP
Posts: 1,664
Last year, the DOH-JNB flight we were on had a boatload of missionaries (from the USA) headed to Malawi. Did you spot any during your trip there? Do they go somewhere in the hinterland - i.e., not the Capital?
From your description, it appears that Malawi is a Bah Humbug kinda country. Or do you think it would appear different if you were to have gone to Lake Malawi itself? [Needless to say, I haven't researched this country, so am curious] Those missionaries that we had spoken with - they were families - were all excited to be going there.
Wow! Driving in JNB. You are definitely much braver than I was! Looking forward to reading about those experiences.
From your description, it appears that Malawi is a Bah Humbug kinda country. Or do you think it would appear different if you were to have gone to Lake Malawi itself? [Needless to say, I haven't researched this country, so am curious] Those missionaries that we had spoken with - they were families - were all excited to be going there.
Wow! Driving in JNB. You are definitely much braver than I was! Looking forward to reading about those experiences.
The people I met in Malawi were generally friendly. The hotel service wasn't great, but I chalk that up to poor training. Walking around didn't feel particularly unsafe and I've definitely been in places that felt markedly more dangerous (certain neighborhoods in Miami, for example). I suppose I just didn't find Malawi to be a hugely interesting place to visit.
The country was also a lot more diverse than I'd have thought. I saw plenty of locals who were of Indian, Middle Eastern and European origin.
Nov 30, 2019, 2:11 pm
#41
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: PVD, BOS
Programs: AA EXP
Posts: 1,664
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Traditional Bungalow
I made it to Piggs Peak more or less according to plan. From there, it was a 4km drive on logging roads to get to the lodge. It was nice to have the extra ground clearance, though one of the other guests made the drive in a Toyota Corolla.
Phophonyane Falls
Phophonyane Falls
Phophonyane Falls
Phophonyane Falls
Phophonyane Falls
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Reception
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Found a crab walking around by the reception office.
Check-in was quick and I was escorted to my room just as the sun was setting.
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
The room was pretty bare bones. There was no A/C either. Luckily, the elevation was such that it was quite comfortable at night.
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
I dropped my bag and headed directly to the restaurant for dinner. The restaurant is the only building with wifi, so I wanted to catch up on emails while waiting for dinner. Unfortunately, they turned off the wifi at 8PM, so I had only a short window to make use of it. There were only a few other guests at the hotel, all Europeans (Germans, Brits and another pair I couldn't place because they spoke too softly).
Restaurant
Restaurant
Restaurant
For Emails
I placed my order and sat on the sofa until the food was ready.
Started with a Salad
Swazi Bean and Beef Bone Stew
Fresh Fruit for Dessert
Dinner was quite tasty and filling. The prices were very reasonable. I was quite satisfied and went to bed shortly after the meal. It was very buggy outside, so I made sure to sleep under the mosquito netting.
I was up early the following morning, as I had to be in Malelane by 8AM to meet my tour guide. As such, I had to leave without having breakfast, but I'd gotten some granola bars at JNB the day before. Snapped some photos of the lodge on my way out because the light was much better.
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls in the Mist
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
A Toad by my room
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Restaurant Building
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Traditional Bungalow
I made it to Piggs Peak more or less according to plan. From there, it was a 4km drive on logging roads to get to the lodge. It was nice to have the extra ground clearance, though one of the other guests made the drive in a Toyota Corolla.
Phophonyane Falls
Phophonyane Falls
Phophonyane Falls
Phophonyane Falls
Phophonyane Falls
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Reception
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Found a crab walking around by the reception office.
Check-in was quick and I was escorted to my room just as the sun was setting.
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
The room was pretty bare bones. There was no A/C either. Luckily, the elevation was such that it was quite comfortable at night.
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
Traditional Bungalow
I dropped my bag and headed directly to the restaurant for dinner. The restaurant is the only building with wifi, so I wanted to catch up on emails while waiting for dinner. Unfortunately, they turned off the wifi at 8PM, so I had only a short window to make use of it. There were only a few other guests at the hotel, all Europeans (Germans, Brits and another pair I couldn't place because they spoke too softly).
Restaurant
Restaurant
Restaurant
For Emails
I placed my order and sat on the sofa until the food was ready.
Started with a Salad
Swazi Bean and Beef Bone Stew
Fresh Fruit for Dessert
Dinner was quite tasty and filling. The prices were very reasonable. I was quite satisfied and went to bed shortly after the meal. It was very buggy outside, so I made sure to sleep under the mosquito netting.
I was up early the following morning, as I had to be in Malelane by 8AM to meet my tour guide. As such, I had to leave without having breakfast, but I'd gotten some granola bars at JNB the day before. Snapped some photos of the lodge on my way out because the light was much better.
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls in the Mist
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
A Toad by my room
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Restaurant Building
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge
Nov 30, 2019, 3:03 pm
#42
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: PVD, BOS
Programs: AA EXP
Posts: 1,664
Driving: Piggs Peak to Maputo (via Malelane)
Driving: Piggs Peak to Maputo (via Malelane)
The drive to Malelane was easy. It was basically a straight shot form the lodge to Malelane with a short stop at the border. The drive was uneventful, with the exception of a few more unmarked speed bumps.
The Route
Phophonyane
I tried to take a different logging road to possibly save a few minutes. I didn't like the look of the road, so I retraced my route from the previous day. I made a couple wrong turns, but eventually found the main road without too much trouble.
Phophonyane
Piggs Peak to Malelane
Piggs Peak to Malelane
Piggs Peak to Malelane
Piggs Peak to Malelane
Piggs Peak to Malelane
Piggs Peak to Malelane
Leaving Swaziland
Piggs Peak to Malelane
I made it to Malelane and met up with the driver at Avis. We then set off for the border. SA exit immigration was a breeze, but Mozambique was decidedly NOT a breeze. Mozambique was by far the most onerous and time consuming border stop of the trip.
Mozambique Muloza Border
I needed to get a visa on arrival, as I'd not bothered to get one in advance. The visa booth was not manned, so it took some time to get an immigration officer to come assist us. When he turned up, he asked to see my hotel reservation. I showed him the reservation confirmation on my phone and he proceeded to berate me for not having a printed copy of the booking with me. A ridiculous distinction, frankly. He even went so far as to tell me that next time I'd be denied entry if I didn't have a paper copy. Such is the nature of power tripping bureaucrats everywhere, I suppose.
I tried to get rid of some US currency with small ink marks on them, but the officer wouldn't take them. For the life of me, I still don't understand this obsession with pristine dollars. I busted out some of my mint condition dollars, which were finally accepted. They took my payment for the visa, but had no change of any kind (even meticals). Good thing I had exact change. The officer then disappeared with my passport for a solid 20 minutes while he processed the visa. By the time he returned, it had taken a good 45 minutes to do everything. Quite a long ordeal, especially since there'd been no one in line in front of me.
I felt bad for the folks in line behind me. I suspect they had to wait even longer than I. Once through, we exchanged some money with black market money changers on the side of the road before continuing onward toward Maputo.
Mozambique
Mozambique
Mozambique
Mozambique
Mozambique
As we entered the outskirts of Maputo, we came upon the bridge pictured below. After getting cut off by a South African driver stopping short to chat up a prostitute, my guide told me the story of the bridge.
The bridge was built and 95% funded by the Chinese. The remaining 5% was funded by the Mozambique government. The bridge was constructed almost entirely by Chinese laborers imported from China. The Chinese laborers in question just so happened to be convicted criminals who were required to work in and ultimately relocate to Mozambique as a condition of their release. Or perhaps they had no choice in the matter, I'm a bit fuzzy on that point. As part of the deal, Mozambique was required to offer citizenship to these laborers after they'd lived in Mozambique for 5 years. So I guess China now exports convicts in addition to everything else?
Mozambique
The drive to Malelane was easy. It was basically a straight shot form the lodge to Malelane with a short stop at the border. The drive was uneventful, with the exception of a few more unmarked speed bumps.
The Route
Phophonyane
I tried to take a different logging road to possibly save a few minutes. I didn't like the look of the road, so I retraced my route from the previous day. I made a couple wrong turns, but eventually found the main road without too much trouble.
Phophonyane
Piggs Peak to Malelane
Piggs Peak to Malelane
Piggs Peak to Malelane
Piggs Peak to Malelane
Piggs Peak to Malelane
Piggs Peak to Malelane
Leaving Swaziland
Piggs Peak to Malelane
I made it to Malelane and met up with the driver at Avis. We then set off for the border. SA exit immigration was a breeze, but Mozambique was decidedly NOT a breeze. Mozambique was by far the most onerous and time consuming border stop of the trip.
Mozambique Muloza Border
I needed to get a visa on arrival, as I'd not bothered to get one in advance. The visa booth was not manned, so it took some time to get an immigration officer to come assist us. When he turned up, he asked to see my hotel reservation. I showed him the reservation confirmation on my phone and he proceeded to berate me for not having a printed copy of the booking with me. A ridiculous distinction, frankly. He even went so far as to tell me that next time I'd be denied entry if I didn't have a paper copy. Such is the nature of power tripping bureaucrats everywhere, I suppose.
I tried to get rid of some US currency with small ink marks on them, but the officer wouldn't take them. For the life of me, I still don't understand this obsession with pristine dollars. I busted out some of my mint condition dollars, which were finally accepted. They took my payment for the visa, but had no change of any kind (even meticals). Good thing I had exact change. The officer then disappeared with my passport for a solid 20 minutes while he processed the visa. By the time he returned, it had taken a good 45 minutes to do everything. Quite a long ordeal, especially since there'd been no one in line in front of me.
I felt bad for the folks in line behind me. I suspect they had to wait even longer than I. Once through, we exchanged some money with black market money changers on the side of the road before continuing onward toward Maputo.
Mozambique
Mozambique
Mozambique
Mozambique
Mozambique
As we entered the outskirts of Maputo, we came upon the bridge pictured below. After getting cut off by a South African driver stopping short to chat up a prostitute, my guide told me the story of the bridge.
The bridge was built and 95% funded by the Chinese. The remaining 5% was funded by the Mozambique government. The bridge was constructed almost entirely by Chinese laborers imported from China. The Chinese laborers in question just so happened to be convicted criminals who were required to work in and ultimately relocate to Mozambique as a condition of their release. Or perhaps they had no choice in the matter, I'm a bit fuzzy on that point. As part of the deal, Mozambique was required to offer citizenship to these laborers after they'd lived in Mozambique for 5 years. So I guess China now exports convicts in addition to everything else?
Mozambique
Dec 2, 2019, 8:24 am
#43
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Central Florida
Programs: UA, IHG
Posts: 464
Swaziland/eSwatini looks quite beautiful. I wish you had taken more photos of the scenery (maybe you did but didn't share them!). Was there a waterfall that you didn't have time to visit (or was it dry)?
The bad roads remind me of rural India and - based on my limited international driving - Australia as well. When are they going to stick to Swaziland or eSwatini? I hope they don't go all the way and become eSwatini.com LOL!
In Mozambique, is that the same bridge that I remember recently seeing a video of? It crosses a river and has a high (for locals) toll, but the economic boon to the area as it joins two sides of the river that used to do limited trade by boat crossings.
The bad roads remind me of rural India and - based on my limited international driving - Australia as well. When are they going to stick to Swaziland or eSwatini? I hope they don't go all the way and become eSwatini.com LOL!
In Mozambique, is that the same bridge that I remember recently seeing a video of? It crosses a river and has a high (for locals) toll, but the economic boon to the area as it joins two sides of the river that used to do limited trade by boat crossings.
Dec 2, 2019, 8:28 am
#44
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Central Florida
Programs: UA, IHG
Posts: 464
Driving: Piggs Peak to Maputo (via Malelane)
[...]
I tried to take a different logging road to possibly save a few minutes. I didn't like the look of the road, so I retraced my route from the previous day. I made a couple wrong turns, but eventually found the main road without too much trouble.
Phophonyane
[...]
[...]
I tried to take a different logging road to possibly save a few minutes. I didn't like the look of the road, so I retraced my route from the previous day. I made a couple wrong turns, but eventually found the main road without too much trouble.
Phophonyane
[...]
Dec 2, 2019, 11:34 am
#45
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: PVD, BOS
Programs: AA EXP
Posts: 1,664
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Arriving on Maputo, the guide took me on a brief driving tour of the city followed by lunch.
Chinese-built Bridge
Chinese-built Bridge
Chinese-built Bridge
Art Deco Maputo
Maputo
Maputo
Maputo
First stop was the Maputo Railway Station
Praca dos Trabalhodores (Workers Square)
Praca dos Trabalhodores (Workers Square)
Before heading into the station, I picked up a SIM card and top up from a street vendor for around $4 US. The SIM worked fine for the 24hr I was there, but I'd probably go to a store if I planned to stay for longer.
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
The railway station is still fully functional, but its utilization is very low. They have perhaps one train a day departing from the station, so it's not the most practical mode of transport.
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
This is one of the newer rolling stock in use. Purchased used from China. Yes, I believe the train toilets drain directly onto the tracks.
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
One of the previous style of train cars. It looks more like an office trailer at a construction site than a train car.
Maputo Railway Station
Praca dos Trabalhodores (Workers Square)
Praca dos Trabalhodores (Workers Square)
Praca dos Trabalhodores (Workers Square)
Praca dos Trabalhodores (Workers Square)
Art Deco Bus Stop
Maputo, Mozambique
Next we headed to the Central Market. Apparently, the political situation in Mozambique at the time was a bit tense. There had just been a national election and the results are disputed with accusations of electoral fraud. My guide felt that the situation could devolve into violence at some point, though everything felt very normal when I was there.
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
After the market, we did a drive by of some other landmarks.
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Catedral de Maputo
Maputo, Mozambique
Camara Municipal
Catedral de Maputo
The following building, Casa de Ferro (The Iron House), was imported from Belgium in 1892 to house the residence of the governor general. However, the steel construction made the house quite uncomfortable due to the heat and humidity in Maputo. My guide attributed the design to Gustave Eiffel, though I'm unsure if that's true or not.
Casa de Ferro
Casa de Ferro
Casa de Ferro
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Radio Mozambique
Radio Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Vila Algarve
Infamous site of Portuguese torture
Vila Algarve
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
So I asked to guide to take me to a restaurant where I could have Mozambican food for lunch. He chose Campo Di Mare, an Italian restaurant. Admittedly, the food was good, though not exactly what I'd have preferred.
Campo Di Mare
Campo Di Mare
After lunch, I went to the hotel to check-in and relax.
Chinese Built Hotel
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Arriving on Maputo, the guide took me on a brief driving tour of the city followed by lunch.
Chinese-built Bridge
Chinese-built Bridge
Chinese-built Bridge
Art Deco Maputo
Maputo
Maputo
Maputo
First stop was the Maputo Railway Station
Praca dos Trabalhodores (Workers Square)
Praca dos Trabalhodores (Workers Square)
Before heading into the station, I picked up a SIM card and top up from a street vendor for around $4 US. The SIM worked fine for the 24hr I was there, but I'd probably go to a store if I planned to stay for longer.
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
The railway station is still fully functional, but its utilization is very low. They have perhaps one train a day departing from the station, so it's not the most practical mode of transport.
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
This is one of the newer rolling stock in use. Purchased used from China. Yes, I believe the train toilets drain directly onto the tracks.
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
Maputo Railway Station
One of the previous style of train cars. It looks more like an office trailer at a construction site than a train car.
Maputo Railway Station
Praca dos Trabalhodores (Workers Square)
Praca dos Trabalhodores (Workers Square)
Praca dos Trabalhodores (Workers Square)
Praca dos Trabalhodores (Workers Square)
Art Deco Bus Stop
Maputo, Mozambique
Next we headed to the Central Market. Apparently, the political situation in Mozambique at the time was a bit tense. There had just been a national election and the results are disputed with accusations of electoral fraud. My guide felt that the situation could devolve into violence at some point, though everything felt very normal when I was there.
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
Maputo Central Market
After the market, we did a drive by of some other landmarks.
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Catedral de Maputo
Maputo, Mozambique
Camara Municipal
Catedral de Maputo
The following building, Casa de Ferro (The Iron House), was imported from Belgium in 1892 to house the residence of the governor general. However, the steel construction made the house quite uncomfortable due to the heat and humidity in Maputo. My guide attributed the design to Gustave Eiffel, though I'm unsure if that's true or not.
Casa de Ferro
Casa de Ferro
Casa de Ferro
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Radio Mozambique
Radio Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Vila Algarve
Infamous site of Portuguese torture
Vila Algarve
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
So I asked to guide to take me to a restaurant where I could have Mozambican food for lunch. He chose Campo Di Mare, an Italian restaurant. Admittedly, the food was good, though not exactly what I'd have preferred.
Campo Di Mare
Campo Di Mare
After lunch, I went to the hotel to check-in and relax.
Chinese Built Hotel
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique
Maputo, Mozambique