Walk like an Egyptian - 16 Days Egypt/Istanbul
Sep 26, 2019, 5:28 am
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta but Washington DC will always be home.
Programs: Marriott LTP, Hilton Diamond, Accor Gold, Hyatt Explorist,, Delta Plat,
Posts: 2,070
Walk like an Egyptian - 16 Days Egypt/Istanbul
Good morning Flyertalkers, family and friends!
Tomorrow my DW and I are headed on a long planned trip to Egypt and Istanbul. Follow along as we visit Cairo/Giza, Luxor, Aswan and Istanbul. History galore.
It'll be a fantastic trip, starting with a long transatlantic economy class flight from the East Coast to Istanbul. Great way to start a well-deserved vacation...oh...and test the bonds of our relationship. :-P
Follow us here, I hope to post daily including lots of pictures, advice, and planning tips! Bon Voyage!
Tomorrow my DW and I are headed on a long planned trip to Egypt and Istanbul. Follow along as we visit Cairo/Giza, Luxor, Aswan and Istanbul. History galore.
It'll be a fantastic trip, starting with a long transatlantic economy class flight from the East Coast to Istanbul. Great way to start a well-deserved vacation...oh...and test the bonds of our relationship. :-P
Follow us here, I hope to post daily including lots of pictures, advice, and planning tips! Bon Voyage!
Oct 1, 2019, 12:40 pm
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta but Washington DC will always be home.
Programs: Marriott LTP, Hilton Diamond, Accor Gold, Hyatt Explorist,, Delta Plat,
Posts: 2,070
September 27-28 Turkish Airways Economy Class ATL-IST
Before I start please know that internet speeds have been most abysmal so far and I have been unable to upload photos to websites/cloud service hopefully we'll have better service in Luxor tomorrow and I'll be able to post some photos.
And...on to the story.
There's no better way to test your marriage than 10+ hours in coach on an airplane. Full stop. You're cramped, the seats are barely comfortable...when the person in front of you decides to recline all the way the seat bangs into your knees and you are unable to open your tray table. And then there's 3-3-3- seating in a plane that should really be 2-3-2 if the airlines cared at all about comfort on a long-haul flight. But, Staff was awesome. Anywho, I digress.
Of course, we were both very excited about our trip. Two weeks split (not at all evenly) between Egypt and Istanbul. Because of this excitement we were both able to look past our being in coach after spoiling ourselves in Premium Economy on many past trips. But, for whatever reason Turkish has decided to not offer premium economy and I refused to pay nearly $5,000RT for business class, instead paying under $1000 per person RT.
We arrived the ATL international terminal just after 6:30pm for our 10:30pm flight. Early yes, but we had time and were in no rush. Good thing too as Turkish uses contract staff in ATL (from what we could tell, only two actual Turkish employees - both managers- were onsite) and the staff while nice and well meaning was not efficient, well-trained or particularly competent. It took us almost 25 minutes (not including the wait in line) to check our bags and have our documents checked as the clerk thought we had to have Egyptian visas in advance (newsflash, not necessary for US travellers). Fortunately, a supervisor (also contract staff) showed the clerk how to read Timatic and soon enough we had our boarding passes and were on our way.
Security was a true Charlie Foxtrot as only the TSA can make it. For some reason known but to a Deity Pre-Check at the International Terminal closes at 5:30pm, even though most all of the European & South American flights (and the vast majority of non-Mexican international flights) leave after 5:30. Fine. At least we would have PreCheck light, as confirmed with a TSA Supervisor at document check (our boarding passes did indicate Pre-Check). Unfortunately, the two "gentlemen" working our security lane seem to have no idea as even with our protestations we were instructed to take off our shoes and otherwise go through a normal screening. Reason according to them? There is no PreCheck light as it would require a special ID scanner that they don't have at non Pre-Check lanes. Points for creativity for the made up answer!
Fast forward to boarding! There were 4 lines for boarding and they boarded in this order: Business/Elite, Families with Children, Rows 28 and above, Rows 27 and below. Boarding was relatively painless, and we had boarded and taken our seats in Row 9 (the first row behind bulkhead) well before departure time. And, best yet, we didn't have anyone in between us. Empty middle! My wife had the window and I have the aisle as it is our preference and while we could live not speaking for the flight were we to share the middle with someone, it was nice to have the extra space. Until the last person boarded...literally the last and well after the person before him...and sat right in the middle seat. Sigh.
This route is on a 787-9, a brand new plane, and the mood lighting was cool, but the seats were very tight for such a long flight. As mentioned above, briefly, there was no legroom if the person in front of you reclined, and although the gentleman in the middle was not heavy, he was broad shouldered and definitely encroached on both of our seats forcing contortions if we didn't want to have physical contact the entire flight.
Flight left the gate on time and takeoff was about 20 minutes after pushback. Drink service was started quickly and I enjoyed a Turkish red wine. Dinner service started just after midnight Eastern, my wife and I both declined as we ate at a nice sit-down restaurant in the airport prior to boarding. Choices were a cod dish and a pasta alfredo. I fell asleep and woke up over the UK, with pain in my neck and back (nothing major just annoying). There were a couple more drink services before landing in Istanbul and a breakfast service about 1.5 hours before arrival. Only one option for breakfast, a pancake pre-dipped in some sort of fruit jelly.
I've got to say I was worried about the friendliness of the staff, having read many reports on the Turkish page that staff were not outgoing, but that was not my experience on this flight. Those of you who know me personally know that I am...well...somewhat gregarious...and with my wife sitting 17 inches away from me, I couldn't talk to her, and 10 hours without talking just wouldn't do, so I instead talked to the flight attendant and found her to be very cheery and outgoing. Perhaps it was because I asked her about her work, or her life in Turkey, but she was very outgoing and asked me many questions about the vacation and about living in the US. She was always smiling and treated me quite well throughout the flight.
We landed at the new Istanbul airport about an hour early, (3:30pm local time) but spent over a half hour taxiing all over this absolutely enormous airport. Finally, we pulled up to a gate, but the jetbridge was not extended. Instead buses pulled up alongside the plane and air stairs were connected. Upon exiting we could see why, as we had taxied to a domestic gate. There were 3 buses for our nearly full flight. One for business passengers and two for coach. We made it on to the first coach bus and after a 5-10 minute drive arrived at a bus entrance to the international terminals. We got off the bus just about at our official arrival time.
Passing into the terminal with an international connection was easy. Escalator up where there was a fork (really just two signs), left for connections, right for immigration. If you went to the left (as we did) there was no security, just a boarding pass check, and we were allowed into the cavernous terminal.
And...on to the story.
There's no better way to test your marriage than 10+ hours in coach on an airplane. Full stop. You're cramped, the seats are barely comfortable...when the person in front of you decides to recline all the way the seat bangs into your knees and you are unable to open your tray table. And then there's 3-3-3- seating in a plane that should really be 2-3-2 if the airlines cared at all about comfort on a long-haul flight. But, Staff was awesome. Anywho, I digress.
Of course, we were both very excited about our trip. Two weeks split (not at all evenly) between Egypt and Istanbul. Because of this excitement we were both able to look past our being in coach after spoiling ourselves in Premium Economy on many past trips. But, for whatever reason Turkish has decided to not offer premium economy and I refused to pay nearly $5,000RT for business class, instead paying under $1000 per person RT.
We arrived the ATL international terminal just after 6:30pm for our 10:30pm flight. Early yes, but we had time and were in no rush. Good thing too as Turkish uses contract staff in ATL (from what we could tell, only two actual Turkish employees - both managers- were onsite) and the staff while nice and well meaning was not efficient, well-trained or particularly competent. It took us almost 25 minutes (not including the wait in line) to check our bags and have our documents checked as the clerk thought we had to have Egyptian visas in advance (newsflash, not necessary for US travellers). Fortunately, a supervisor (also contract staff) showed the clerk how to read Timatic and soon enough we had our boarding passes and were on our way.
Security was a true Charlie Foxtrot as only the TSA can make it. For some reason known but to a Deity Pre-Check at the International Terminal closes at 5:30pm, even though most all of the European & South American flights (and the vast majority of non-Mexican international flights) leave after 5:30. Fine. At least we would have PreCheck light, as confirmed with a TSA Supervisor at document check (our boarding passes did indicate Pre-Check). Unfortunately, the two "gentlemen" working our security lane seem to have no idea as even with our protestations we were instructed to take off our shoes and otherwise go through a normal screening. Reason according to them? There is no PreCheck light as it would require a special ID scanner that they don't have at non Pre-Check lanes. Points for creativity for the made up answer!
Fast forward to boarding! There were 4 lines for boarding and they boarded in this order: Business/Elite, Families with Children, Rows 28 and above, Rows 27 and below. Boarding was relatively painless, and we had boarded and taken our seats in Row 9 (the first row behind bulkhead) well before departure time. And, best yet, we didn't have anyone in between us. Empty middle! My wife had the window and I have the aisle as it is our preference and while we could live not speaking for the flight were we to share the middle with someone, it was nice to have the extra space. Until the last person boarded...literally the last and well after the person before him...and sat right in the middle seat. Sigh.
This route is on a 787-9, a brand new plane, and the mood lighting was cool, but the seats were very tight for such a long flight. As mentioned above, briefly, there was no legroom if the person in front of you reclined, and although the gentleman in the middle was not heavy, he was broad shouldered and definitely encroached on both of our seats forcing contortions if we didn't want to have physical contact the entire flight.
Flight left the gate on time and takeoff was about 20 minutes after pushback. Drink service was started quickly and I enjoyed a Turkish red wine. Dinner service started just after midnight Eastern, my wife and I both declined as we ate at a nice sit-down restaurant in the airport prior to boarding. Choices were a cod dish and a pasta alfredo. I fell asleep and woke up over the UK, with pain in my neck and back (nothing major just annoying). There were a couple more drink services before landing in Istanbul and a breakfast service about 1.5 hours before arrival. Only one option for breakfast, a pancake pre-dipped in some sort of fruit jelly.
I've got to say I was worried about the friendliness of the staff, having read many reports on the Turkish page that staff were not outgoing, but that was not my experience on this flight. Those of you who know me personally know that I am...well...somewhat gregarious...and with my wife sitting 17 inches away from me, I couldn't talk to her, and 10 hours without talking just wouldn't do, so I instead talked to the flight attendant and found her to be very cheery and outgoing. Perhaps it was because I asked her about her work, or her life in Turkey, but she was very outgoing and asked me many questions about the vacation and about living in the US. She was always smiling and treated me quite well throughout the flight.
We landed at the new Istanbul airport about an hour early, (3:30pm local time) but spent over a half hour taxiing all over this absolutely enormous airport. Finally, we pulled up to a gate, but the jetbridge was not extended. Instead buses pulled up alongside the plane and air stairs were connected. Upon exiting we could see why, as we had taxied to a domestic gate. There were 3 buses for our nearly full flight. One for business passengers and two for coach. We made it on to the first coach bus and after a 5-10 minute drive arrived at a bus entrance to the international terminals. We got off the bus just about at our official arrival time.
Passing into the terminal with an international connection was easy. Escalator up where there was a fork (really just two signs), left for connections, right for immigration. If you went to the left (as we did) there was no security, just a boarding pass check, and we were allowed into the cavernous terminal.
Oct 1, 2019, 1:29 pm
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta but Washington DC will always be home.
Programs: Marriott LTP, Hilton Diamond, Accor Gold, Hyatt Explorist,, Delta Plat,
Posts: 2,070
September 28, Turkish Airlines IST-CAI & Marriott Mena House
The Istanbul airport was really amazing. Tons of natural light, vaulted roofs that must have been 100 feet high in places, really well done. We came into the F terminal and it is really hard to get used to landing in a foreign country when the first things you see are a Starbucks, a Sbarros and a Burger King. Our next gate had been posted in the B gates, about as far as possible from F and it took us about 20 minutes to walk to our connecting gate. At least it was a nice walk as the hall connecting the various piers is full of every luxury brand your heart could desire + multiple duty free stores. If it weren't for all the directional signage and the duty free stores one could easily think they were in a luxury mall in....and then you see Carl's Junior...and quickly remember you are in an airport.
Our flight to Cairo was on a member of the A320 family. Boarding started on time and was done in 3 lines: Families/Elites/Business Class, Row 18 and Above, Row 17 and below. A full meal was served on this two hour flight, a chicken curry that was actually pretty good given it was an airline meal. I fell asleep soon after the meal and woke up upon touchdown in Cairo.
Cairo airport has not changed compared to my memory. Two visa windows, no organized queuing, and a quick pass through immigration as a foreigner. And...then the Egyptian experience began. As soon as we had reached the bottom of the escalator for baggage we started being approached by multiple people offering help with luggage and/or a ride into town. To me, it really detracts from my holiday to be bombarded by touts not only in general, but even before leaving the secure area of the terminal. But, that is what it is and its not going to change. Fortunately, a polite "no thank you" is all that is needed for them to move on.
Luggage arrived quickly, customs was also quick as an individual checked our passports, asked us what was in our luggage and then waived us through. We joined the throngs in the arrivals area, made chaotic with 20-30 people all yelling about their ability to give you a cheap ride to your hotel. We proceeded first to the ATM and then to the counter for the Cairo Airport Shuttle $450 EGP (about $28US) for our private ride to Giza (+100EGP tip, about 6 USD). I like the Shuttle company because the vehicles are newer and in good shape with working safety equipment (if you've ever driven in Egypt you'll understand). Also the price is set in advance as I hate haggling while exhausted upon initial arrival.
Our driver was excellent by Egyptian standards. We drove the ring road at speeds approaching 130KPH, using the horn in lieu of directional signals. I sat in front and could see my wife frantically trying to press the imaginary passenger brake in back as we careened down the road, switching lanes seemingly at random, mainly because no one follows lane markings, and cutting off both cars and big trucks by inches. We had one major slowdown as the police had set up a roadblock just after the Nile bridge, but we were quickly waived through when the driver explained we were tourists coming from the airport.
About an hour after leaving the airport, we arrived at the Marriott Mena House Hotel (10pm local time). The Marriott Mena House is an absolutely gorgeous property directly across from the Great Pyramid. It started its life as a Palace/Hunting Lodge and most recently an Oberoi before reflagging as a Marriott and undergoing renovations in the last couple of years. Due to the renovations, only the reception (including 24hour full service bank, tourist agency, and gift shop) and the Bar was open in the main Palace. But, to say it was an amazing sight would be a complete understatement. There were amazing chandeliers, and gold, GOLD!, everywhere. The walls, the ceiling, the lights, EVERYWHERE.
Check-in was quick and as we'd later come to expect, the staff was exceedingly polite. While one staff member handled our check-in another member of staff explained to us the amenities of the hotel. In lieu of the $250USD+ for a pyramid view per night for our 3 night stay, I paid 17,500 points +30USD per night. Not the best point value, but I have more points than I can easily use so it made sense for us.
After check-in, a member of guest relations brought us to our building by golf cart which took maybe a minute (about a 5 minute walk we would find the next day). We had been further upgraded to a Deluxe Pyramid Room on the top (4th) floor with a straight-on view (with no obstacles) of the Great Pyramid. We couldn't see it at night, but the view was amazing when we woke up to it the next morning. The room itself was a very good size, with a sitting area, king bed, large closet, sizable balcony with table and two chairs, and a marble bathroom with combined shower/soaking tub. The staff bade us good night and I passed her a tip of 50EGP (about $3US). Within moments of her departure, bell staff arrived with our luggages, also garnering a 50EGP tip.
Security is high and noticeable at the Mena House. Cars are checked at a front gate by a bomb sniffing dog, bags are screened at every building entrance by x-ray, and they have metal detectors (which seemed only in use at the main Palace building). Additionally, there were roaming security guards and there was always a police presence in the entry drive and/or lobby.
After decompressing for a few minutes, we went to the 24 hour restaurant "139" which is located in a side building fronted by a magnificent pool of water. It was only in the 70's - being after nightfall- so we sat outside on the terrace. We could order A La Carte or utilize the buffet and we chose the buffet...which was a mistake. Don't get me wrong, there was a ton of food on offer, Chinese, American, Indian, Italian, fresh fruits and vegetables, salads galore, but the price (which we only found out when presented with out bill) was high given the quality was just so-so at $550EGP per person($35 US) + a mandatory 12% service fee (goes to hotel, not wait staff) + VAT. We also shared a 1.5 litre bottle of purified water (Nestle Pure Life) for $35EGP ($2 US). Total including a 10% tip was about $1600EGP or about $100US. We would later have amazing meals at both Alfredo (the Italian Restaurant) and the Moghul Room (Indian), where a 3 course meal (Alfredo) and 2 course meal (Moghul Room) with alcohol would come to less $. More on that to come.
After eating we returned to our room and quickly went to a restful sleep.
The fun started the next day, and much more to come!
For those of you unfamiliar with Egypt, tipping is a part of life and is to be expected. For me, given the fall in the EGP value combined with the decrease in government subsidies, I never tip less than $20EGP ($1.25US) if service was passable or $50EGP or more if service was good or exemplary. In restaurants I tip 10% if good service, 0 if poor. I don't know that there is any rhyme or reason to how much one should tip - this is just how I do it. For those interested in pricing I will list tips as I make them in this Trip Report.
Our flight to Cairo was on a member of the A320 family. Boarding started on time and was done in 3 lines: Families/Elites/Business Class, Row 18 and Above, Row 17 and below. A full meal was served on this two hour flight, a chicken curry that was actually pretty good given it was an airline meal. I fell asleep soon after the meal and woke up upon touchdown in Cairo.
Cairo airport has not changed compared to my memory. Two visa windows, no organized queuing, and a quick pass through immigration as a foreigner. And...then the Egyptian experience began. As soon as we had reached the bottom of the escalator for baggage we started being approached by multiple people offering help with luggage and/or a ride into town. To me, it really detracts from my holiday to be bombarded by touts not only in general, but even before leaving the secure area of the terminal. But, that is what it is and its not going to change. Fortunately, a polite "no thank you" is all that is needed for them to move on.
Luggage arrived quickly, customs was also quick as an individual checked our passports, asked us what was in our luggage and then waived us through. We joined the throngs in the arrivals area, made chaotic with 20-30 people all yelling about their ability to give you a cheap ride to your hotel. We proceeded first to the ATM and then to the counter for the Cairo Airport Shuttle $450 EGP (about $28US) for our private ride to Giza (+100EGP tip, about 6 USD). I like the Shuttle company because the vehicles are newer and in good shape with working safety equipment (if you've ever driven in Egypt you'll understand). Also the price is set in advance as I hate haggling while exhausted upon initial arrival.
Our driver was excellent by Egyptian standards. We drove the ring road at speeds approaching 130KPH, using the horn in lieu of directional signals. I sat in front and could see my wife frantically trying to press the imaginary passenger brake in back as we careened down the road, switching lanes seemingly at random, mainly because no one follows lane markings, and cutting off both cars and big trucks by inches. We had one major slowdown as the police had set up a roadblock just after the Nile bridge, but we were quickly waived through when the driver explained we were tourists coming from the airport.
About an hour after leaving the airport, we arrived at the Marriott Mena House Hotel (10pm local time). The Marriott Mena House is an absolutely gorgeous property directly across from the Great Pyramid. It started its life as a Palace/Hunting Lodge and most recently an Oberoi before reflagging as a Marriott and undergoing renovations in the last couple of years. Due to the renovations, only the reception (including 24hour full service bank, tourist agency, and gift shop) and the Bar was open in the main Palace. But, to say it was an amazing sight would be a complete understatement. There were amazing chandeliers, and gold, GOLD!, everywhere. The walls, the ceiling, the lights, EVERYWHERE.
Check-in was quick and as we'd later come to expect, the staff was exceedingly polite. While one staff member handled our check-in another member of staff explained to us the amenities of the hotel. In lieu of the $250USD+ for a pyramid view per night for our 3 night stay, I paid 17,500 points +30USD per night. Not the best point value, but I have more points than I can easily use so it made sense for us.
After check-in, a member of guest relations brought us to our building by golf cart which took maybe a minute (about a 5 minute walk we would find the next day). We had been further upgraded to a Deluxe Pyramid Room on the top (4th) floor with a straight-on view (with no obstacles) of the Great Pyramid. We couldn't see it at night, but the view was amazing when we woke up to it the next morning. The room itself was a very good size, with a sitting area, king bed, large closet, sizable balcony with table and two chairs, and a marble bathroom with combined shower/soaking tub. The staff bade us good night and I passed her a tip of 50EGP (about $3US). Within moments of her departure, bell staff arrived with our luggages, also garnering a 50EGP tip.
Security is high and noticeable at the Mena House. Cars are checked at a front gate by a bomb sniffing dog, bags are screened at every building entrance by x-ray, and they have metal detectors (which seemed only in use at the main Palace building). Additionally, there were roaming security guards and there was always a police presence in the entry drive and/or lobby.
After decompressing for a few minutes, we went to the 24 hour restaurant "139" which is located in a side building fronted by a magnificent pool of water. It was only in the 70's - being after nightfall- so we sat outside on the terrace. We could order A La Carte or utilize the buffet and we chose the buffet...which was a mistake. Don't get me wrong, there was a ton of food on offer, Chinese, American, Indian, Italian, fresh fruits and vegetables, salads galore, but the price (which we only found out when presented with out bill) was high given the quality was just so-so at $550EGP per person($35 US) + a mandatory 12% service fee (goes to hotel, not wait staff) + VAT. We also shared a 1.5 litre bottle of purified water (Nestle Pure Life) for $35EGP ($2 US). Total including a 10% tip was about $1600EGP or about $100US. We would later have amazing meals at both Alfredo (the Italian Restaurant) and the Moghul Room (Indian), where a 3 course meal (Alfredo) and 2 course meal (Moghul Room) with alcohol would come to less $. More on that to come.
After eating we returned to our room and quickly went to a restful sleep.
The fun started the next day, and much more to come!
For those of you unfamiliar with Egypt, tipping is a part of life and is to be expected. For me, given the fall in the EGP value combined with the decrease in government subsidies, I never tip less than $20EGP ($1.25US) if service was passable or $50EGP or more if service was good or exemplary. In restaurants I tip 10% if good service, 0 if poor. I don't know that there is any rhyme or reason to how much one should tip - this is just how I do it. For those interested in pricing I will list tips as I make them in this Trip Report.
Oct 3, 2019, 10:56 am
#9
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta but Washington DC will always be home.
Programs: Marriott LTP, Hilton Diamond, Accor Gold, Hyatt Explorist,, Delta Plat,
Posts: 2,070
September 29 - Wake Up
Sorry for my horrible attention to keeping up with this Report. Too much going on, but alas here we are!
September 29th will probably be the absolute highlight of our two week trip. Seriously. But, before we get to why, let's start with the Club Lounge and breakfast. I'm a Titanium member of Marriott and as a Titanium I get access to the lounge included automatically. And the lounge here does not disappoint. Really gracious and friendly lounge host (even knew my DW and my name by the second day), eggs made to order, pastries, breads, oatmeal, sausages, fruits, espresso, lattes, cappuccinos, fresh squeezed juices, potatoes, basically plenty to eat and plenty of variety!
After eating we retired to our room and sat on the balcony looking out at the Great Pyramid while enjoying a coffee and waiting for our tour guide who would meet us in reception at 10am. Today we would get a behind the scenes tour of the Ministry of Antiquities Conservation Center...yes the place where they restore and protect Egypt's ancient artifacts. Then we would get a hard hat tour of the new Grand Egyptian Museum. It's a bit of a splurge at $250US per person, but was so amazing and absolutely worth every penny. We learned of the ability to have this experience in a piece in Travel and Leisure Magazine, and then set about finding a company that could make it happen.
All of my research identified only one company that was offering the tour, ExploreEgypt Tours. I was somewhat nervous as they required pre-payment of the entire tour in USD, sent by Western Union, in advance. Now, this is not my first trip to Egypt and as a country it is still very much a cash economy, but it was still weird wiring money to an individual (who's name was different than the man emailing me) and just hoping it all works out. Sometimes you have to trust. So I did. And, I've now earned enough brownie points to keep me out of trouble for a whole month or so.
So that brings us to 10am, when we were picked up by a car and driver + our guide (Mahmoud). The car was an older Kia, with no working seatbelts, but working aircon...you know the important stuff. After 10 minutes drive we pulled up to the Conservation Center and you could say our journey into Egyptian History really began.
September 29th will probably be the absolute highlight of our two week trip. Seriously. But, before we get to why, let's start with the Club Lounge and breakfast. I'm a Titanium member of Marriott and as a Titanium I get access to the lounge included automatically. And the lounge here does not disappoint. Really gracious and friendly lounge host (even knew my DW and my name by the second day), eggs made to order, pastries, breads, oatmeal, sausages, fruits, espresso, lattes, cappuccinos, fresh squeezed juices, potatoes, basically plenty to eat and plenty of variety!
After eating we retired to our room and sat on the balcony looking out at the Great Pyramid while enjoying a coffee and waiting for our tour guide who would meet us in reception at 10am. Today we would get a behind the scenes tour of the Ministry of Antiquities Conservation Center...yes the place where they restore and protect Egypt's ancient artifacts. Then we would get a hard hat tour of the new Grand Egyptian Museum. It's a bit of a splurge at $250US per person, but was so amazing and absolutely worth every penny. We learned of the ability to have this experience in a piece in Travel and Leisure Magazine, and then set about finding a company that could make it happen.
All of my research identified only one company that was offering the tour, ExploreEgypt Tours. I was somewhat nervous as they required pre-payment of the entire tour in USD, sent by Western Union, in advance. Now, this is not my first trip to Egypt and as a country it is still very much a cash economy, but it was still weird wiring money to an individual (who's name was different than the man emailing me) and just hoping it all works out. Sometimes you have to trust. So I did. And, I've now earned enough brownie points to keep me out of trouble for a whole month or so.
So that brings us to 10am, when we were picked up by a car and driver + our guide (Mahmoud). The car was an older Kia, with no working seatbelts, but working aircon...you know the important stuff. After 10 minutes drive we pulled up to the Conservation Center and you could say our journey into Egyptian History really began.
Oct 3, 2019, 11:25 am
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta but Washington DC will always be home.
Programs: Marriott LTP, Hilton Diamond, Accor Gold, Hyatt Explorist,, Delta Plat,
Posts: 2,070
Antiquities Conservation Center
Our guide for the Conservation Center was a very nice young female archaeologist who works in the lab. There were three of us on the tour: myself -the aforementioned DW!, dcstudent, and a Canadian tourist. We had to leave our bags at the security post and began the tour. And what a tour it was! The Conservation Center is a treasure trove for any Egypt enthusiast in terms of the artifacts, the wealth of knowledge and expertise from the archaeologists and preservationists working on site, and the information being gathered through their efforts. I'm sure the tour varies depending on what is "displayed" by whatever they happen to be working on at the time. Photography is strictly limited, both for security and because many items in the Center have never been on display before and they don't want to ruin the grand debut of these priceless treasures when they go on display in the new Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM). While you obviously don't have the run of the place, the tour is the next best thing. We got to visit labs where artifacts were actively being restored. If our guide couldn't answer a question, she would ask one of the the archaeologists in the room. We saw funerary objects from King Tut's tomb, pottery, murals, statues, sarcophagi (one of which had been on storage and never displayed -- thousands of years later, it's in mint condition), and on and on and on. We found ourselves constantly saying "wow, this is amazing" as we walked through the labs standing mere inches from priceless artifacts. What we wouldn't give to be able to work in these labs full time! (Of course, we have no useful skills for the work...but still!)
After we left the Conservation Center, we got to tour the construction site. Mahmoud said that tour companies had received conflicting information about how long these tours would continue: first, that they would completely stop at the end of September (ours was going to be the last), but that this information was updated and the behind-the-scenes restoration tours would continue through January; however, the tours would no longer include a visit to the construction site. So, effectively, our tour was one of the last to see the GEM in the works. Equipped with high-vis vests and hardhats, we walked through the main entrance, and got to see a statue of Ramses III (I believe, may have been Ramses II...it's hard to keep track!) that had been brought up from Luxor three years ago and the museum continued to be built around him. Let me tell you: I can only imagine how magnificent the final product will be when the GEM is completed, but the building in the works is absolutely gorgeous! It will have a food court, gift shop, conference rooms, RamsesII/III will greet you as you enter, and there will be a sweeping grand staircase to lead you to King Tut's tomb treasures....It's going to be a masterpiece!
This tour definitely set a high bar for the trip, and we can't recommend it enough. The price is a bit steep ($250US/person), but honestly, I think they are low-balling it considering the once in a lifetime experience it affords you. You are up close and personal with ancient history with a roomful of experts to answer your burning questions. If you're planning to visit Egypt before the end of January, PUT THIS ON YOUR LIST!!!!!
After we left the Conservation Center, we got to tour the construction site. Mahmoud said that tour companies had received conflicting information about how long these tours would continue: first, that they would completely stop at the end of September (ours was going to be the last), but that this information was updated and the behind-the-scenes restoration tours would continue through January; however, the tours would no longer include a visit to the construction site. So, effectively, our tour was one of the last to see the GEM in the works. Equipped with high-vis vests and hardhats, we walked through the main entrance, and got to see a statue of Ramses III (I believe, may have been Ramses II...it's hard to keep track!) that had been brought up from Luxor three years ago and the museum continued to be built around him. Let me tell you: I can only imagine how magnificent the final product will be when the GEM is completed, but the building in the works is absolutely gorgeous! It will have a food court, gift shop, conference rooms, RamsesII/III will greet you as you enter, and there will be a sweeping grand staircase to lead you to King Tut's tomb treasures....It's going to be a masterpiece!
This tour definitely set a high bar for the trip, and we can't recommend it enough. The price is a bit steep ($250US/person), but honestly, I think they are low-balling it considering the once in a lifetime experience it affords you. You are up close and personal with ancient history with a roomful of experts to answer your burning questions. If you're planning to visit Egypt before the end of January, PUT THIS ON YOUR LIST!!!!!
Oct 3, 2019, 11:32 am
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta but Washington DC will always be home.
Programs: Marriott LTP, Hilton Diamond, Accor Gold, Hyatt Explorist,, Delta Plat,
Posts: 2,070
The end of September 29
As you can see above, the day was amazing, and given the tour was about 3 hours in total, we were back at Mena house by 1pm!
Having had a large breakfast, we simply headed to the lounge to grab some bottled water and headed to our balcony to read in the shadow of the pyramids while watching the birdlife enjoying the fountains, palms and lush grounds of the Mena House!
Eventually, we had to eat, and headed to Alfredo the Italian restaurant located behind our building and to the left of the huge pool structure. We arrived at about 7pm local, and the restaurant was about 65% full. As we came to expect from everyone working at the Mena House, the Staff was extremely kind and gracious as we enjoyed two soups, two pasta dishes and finally dessert along with a 1.5L bottle of Mineral Water and a bottle 750ml of Egyptian Red Wine. The food was excellent - especially the lentil soup!! - and the wine surprisingly good. Total including 14% tax, 12% service fee and tip was just about $1600EGP or $100USD. As you can see, although the price was similar to the buffet, we still had plenty of food to eat AND a bottle of wine to enjoy!
After dinner we retired to our room and quickly went to bed with visions of King Tut's Funeary Objects Dancing in Our Heads!
Having had a large breakfast, we simply headed to the lounge to grab some bottled water and headed to our balcony to read in the shadow of the pyramids while watching the birdlife enjoying the fountains, palms and lush grounds of the Mena House!
Eventually, we had to eat, and headed to Alfredo the Italian restaurant located behind our building and to the left of the huge pool structure. We arrived at about 7pm local, and the restaurant was about 65% full. As we came to expect from everyone working at the Mena House, the Staff was extremely kind and gracious as we enjoyed two soups, two pasta dishes and finally dessert along with a 1.5L bottle of Mineral Water and a bottle 750ml of Egyptian Red Wine. The food was excellent - especially the lentil soup!! - and the wine surprisingly good. Total including 14% tax, 12% service fee and tip was just about $1600EGP or $100USD. As you can see, although the price was similar to the buffet, we still had plenty of food to eat AND a bottle of wine to enjoy!
After dinner we retired to our room and quickly went to bed with visions of King Tut's Funeary Objects Dancing in Our Heads!
Oct 3, 2019, 11:36 am
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta but Washington DC will always be home.
Programs: Marriott LTP, Hilton Diamond, Accor Gold, Hyatt Explorist,, Delta Plat,
Posts: 2,070
Yes, it is true, but to be fair, there is no way for the guards at any given building to know that you've just been searched elsewhere on the property. Oddly, you do not go through any kind of screening at the restaurants just the main Palace (Reception and Bar, Bank, Travel Agency and Gift Shop) and at the buildings for the hotel rooms.