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-   -   Culture, food and gelato - 3 weeks in Bella Italia (https://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-reports/1966482-culture-food-gelato-3-weeks-bella-italia.html)

lamphs May 11, 2019 10:17 am

offerendum you certainly know how to present your trips especially the food. Finding unique, quality restaurants is an area that I need to increase my game. Thanks for taking the time to post this trip!

offerendum May 11, 2019 1:48 pm


Originally Posted by lamphs (Post 31090410)
offerendum you certainly know how to present your trips especially the food. Finding unique, quality restaurants is an area that I need to increase my game. Thanks for taking the time to post this trip!

Thanks

offerendum May 12, 2019 4:14 am

Rome: Arco di Costantino
 
Arco di Costantino was build in 312 and is located directly beside the Colosseo.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...8d399c71d5.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...5c0496025a.jpg

offerendum May 12, 2019 4:37 am

Rome: Colosseo
 
The Colsseum is without doubt one of the most famous buildings in the world. As I said bevor buying tickets was not too great. Generally it was included in my crampy Roma Pass. I had to go to the homepage and to book a timeslot for 2 € per person. As I never got a confirmation the 4 € were wasted and I had to buy additional tickets.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...95807ede5c.jpg
From inside itīs without question worth seeing. I think perhaps some people will be disappointed as itīs not as spectacular as many think.
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offerendum May 12, 2019 5:05 am

Dinner: Moma Rome
 
Moma Rome I reserved as it was awarded a Michelin star shortly before our visit. With 69,00 € their tasting menu was a real bargain.
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The arrival was not so great. After we entered we were asked for our reservation and they werenīt able to find it. In the end I had to show the confirmation e-mail which I fortunately still had. We had to wait a few minutes till our table was ready. This was all not very welcoming and really wired as during the whole evening some tables remained empty.
We took the tasting menu but first got good bread and amuse bouche.
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The menu started with a seasonal garden.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...eea2db2810.jpg
Next came Spaghetti with Bottarga.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...1141e6f57b.jpg
Grilled octopus
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...618f7a0c30.jpg
Pre-dessert
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...3a9df2a584.jpg
Hazelnut
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Petit fours
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The quality of the food was very good, service friendly but not as polished as at other starred restaurants. Especially considering the price I absolutely recommend it.

offerendum May 12, 2019 7:51 am

Rental Car
 
Time to say goodbye to Rome and time to collect my rental car. I booked an Audi A6 quattro at Hertz and collected my car a few Streets away from the Eden. What I got was a new A6 but without 4-w drive whatīs hard to drive for me as I used to the traction.Car was in good condition and Pretty good equiped, with leather, sunroof and distance cruise control but without electrical seat adjustment.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...bdcbfd622e.jpg
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The navigation system Looks great as the rest of the systems but is full of bugs. This is a good excample:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...404b3fb0a5.jpg

offerendum May 12, 2019 2:49 pm

Florence: St. Regis Hotel
 
I visited Florence in 2014 for 6 nights and had a very good stay at the Four Seasons. This time it should be a short stay of 2 nights and I booked the other high praised hotel in Florence, the St. Regis.
Arriving at the hotel is a little bit a challenge as it is located in the restricted travel Zone. If you stay in a hotel inside you are allowed to enter. After a drive through big crowds of tourists we arrived at the hotel.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...77e7361927.jpg
The public spaces at the St. Regis are very nice.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...f8a50ac0ef.jpg
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Personally I think the public spaces at the Four Season are even more impressive, but this is personal taste.
At check-in we were told our booked Junior Suite wasnīt ready as the guests before us had a late check-out. It was around 1 pm. so no problem. They offered us a temporary room, which we took.

offerendum May 12, 2019 3:03 pm

Florence: St. Regis Rome
 
Our temporary room was on the top floor. When we left the elevator we got a first Impression of the style.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...d48665c65f.jpg
At the reception we were told it would be a small room and the lady didnīt promised too much. It was one of the smallest rooms I ever saw.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...e69c1dd70d.jpg
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OK, I looked forward to see my real room. If I consider they often claim 600 € for such a room I think it would be worth to consider alternatives with more spacious rooms.

offerendum May 12, 2019 3:31 pm

Florence: St. Regis Hotel
 
After we did a walk through the town we were able to move to our Junior Suite.
The room was on the second floor, every room has a name.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...09e3c20cdc.jpg
There was a floor with many storage room. It was a little bit woody and the cupboards were hard to open, but spacious.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...65740e9a64.jpg
The room was divided in living- and bedroom. There were also paintings at the wall. Even if I donīt wonna furnish my own home this way it dits to Florence and I liked the style more than the style of our temporary room.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...d84810c124.jpg
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The bathroom was spacious and had everything you need.
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The view from our room:
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So far, so good. I liked the room and personally I even prefer it to our Junior Suite at the Four Seasons.
BUT, now some problems occured. We waited for our laguage. After half an hour the bell rang and I thought. But it was our butler who offered his ervice. We asked for some tea-facilities and our laguage. 10 minutes later the tea-facilities arrived. We waited another 30 minutes or so before it arrived. Thatīs definitively too long.
But this wasnīt everything. In the evening I wanted to take a shower. While I can live with the weak water preasure I found it not so great the water was cold. Next morning water preasure was still weak but at least it was warm. So I didnīt complain. In the evening we wanted to take a bath but water didnīt get warm so it wasnīt possible. In the morning it was again cold, inacceptable.
Another problem was the corridor. In front of our room it looked like that:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...6683a3c885.jpg
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I think a hotelfloor shouldnīt look like that…..
When I used the air-condition my trust was strenghened.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...9630955fd4.jpg
Also I wasnīt too happy how the bed looked from the side. Is this the way a bed in a luxury hotel should look?
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...fe85834a25.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...5f82cc4b39.jpg

offerendum May 12, 2019 3:49 pm

Florence: St. Regis Hotel
 
The first morning breakfast was served in the main hall downstairs.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...d93c2cd8f9.jpg
Beautiful Flowers.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...021f42ea3c.jpg
After we entered we were shown a table and ordered choclate and tea. After it we did a tour to the buffet.
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When I came back I was surprised to see other people sitting at our table. Obviously the waitress had immediately after we stood up cleaned our table and had sat other people on it. This is especially funny as we didnīt eat a bite so far. Wired. When she saw me with my plate in my hands she apologized and the people had to leave for another table.
The Food itself was disappointing. While the choices were OK, Quality was nothing to write home about.
The second morning they served breakfast upstairs.
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The choices were a little bit better than the day before, quality on one level.
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Made to order dishes were OK.
The breakfast was no reason to really complain about but far from great. If I compare it with the Four Seasons worlds are between each other.

offerendum May 12, 2019 4:26 pm

Dinner: Winter Garden by Caino
 
Our first evening we had dinner at Winter Garden by Caine at the St. Regis which was awarded 1 Michelin star. I had reserved a table in advance.
When we arrived we were greated by 2 members of staff. We had our room key in hand but were (sceptical) asked what we want. When we said that we wanted to eat at Winter Garden we were asked if we had a reservation. Then they searched in their computer to find it and after it escorted us to our table. I generally hate such a behavior, but I get furious if I see that only 3 of perhaps 20 tables were occupied. If in such a situation a hotelguest arrives there is no question for a reservation. It should only be: "Welcome, may we Show your your table.".
The restaurant shares the space with the bar. In generally I can live with it eben if at the other tables sit people in shorts. BUT what I hate is loud (terrible) music and that there were already parts of a buffet in the back. For me this restaurant lacked style and I hated this place for a Michelin starred dinner. Itīs a place to quickly through in some food but not to have a nice dinner.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...c777088602.jpg
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We were ready to order. The tasting menu wasnīt suitable for us and no alternative was offered. So we ordered a la carte.
First we had a mocktail - pretty good.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...832290e207.jpg
Fortunately now a very attentive waitress took care of us who provided very good Service. Next the amuse bouche - OK
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Now our first courses.
Low temperature poached egg, served with bearnaise sauce foam, asparagus, caviar and pan-brioche
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...b2a11ce325.jpg
The taste was weak, nothing special.
Chef personal version of Apulian's typical dish - Rice cream, sautéed mussels, potatoes foam, salmon roe
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...d8a440005a.jpg
This dish was not very enjoyable, it was simply not very tasty.
At this moment I googled if it really still holds 1 star at guide Michelin (no joke).
Main course: Pan fried turbot fillet, mashed parsnip, sea lettuce
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...927f100621.jpg
No, not great. I think you can see it on the picture. So far away form Michelin star level.
We discussed if we order dessert. In the end I decided to do. But first the pre-dessert.
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Our desserts were each 26 €, see what we get:
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The taste was OK, but especially the chocolate mouse was at this Price Point a joke.
Petit fours
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I think everybody knows what I think about this dinner. I really canīt recommend Winter Garden, for me it was no wonder the restaurant was nearly empty and it wouldnīt be a wonder if this restaurant is next year on the list of restaurants who lost their Michelin star.

offerendum May 12, 2019 4:40 pm

Florence: St. Regis
 
When it was time for check-out we asked in advance for our car which should be come immediately. At the reception I was especially asked how my dinner was. In the end I told my story and a manager was called. She apologized and gave me a 50% discount on the restaurant bill. It was a nice gesture which I didnīt expect.
After check-out we nearly waited another 30 minutes for our car to come. Another taste of St. Regis service.
I wasnīt impressed by my stay. If I compare it with the Four Seasons I would not think a Minute which hotel to take if rates are compareable. The Four Seasons felt so much superior. Only pro of St. Regis may be the room, even if this is questionable. Another pro may be Location as the St. Regis is nearer to the center. Nevertheless you mustnīt expect to be right in the action, itīs still a 10 minutes walk to the first interesting sights and a 15 minutes walk to the duomo. In the same time Iīm there from the Four Seasons. If I consider the beautiful garden and the pool at Four Seasons itīs a simple decision.

Ex-SIN May 12, 2019 9:39 pm


Originally Posted by offerendum (Post 31053999)
Before we went back to our hotel it was time for a gelato. I found a recommondation for San Crispino and gave it a try.

The gelato was very good, the best so far.

This is my favourite gelato place in Rome!!!

offerendum May 13, 2019 2:01 am


Originally Posted by Ex-SIN (Post 31094989)
This is my favourite gelato place in Rome!!!

Understandable^

LinLant May 13, 2019 11:06 am

Great trip report! I only wish my cholesterol levels allowed me to partake gelato again!


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