To the Roof of the World - Tibet - with Xiamen Air
Nov 24, 2018, 4:06 pm
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 14
To the Roof of the World - Tibet - with Xiamen Air
I have posted trip reports on airliners.net but I only recently discovered this forum on FlyerTalk - which I like even better. I try at least twice a year to go on a good globe-exploring adventure - sometimes with my family and sometimes solo. This past summer I found a ridiculously good deal to visit Tibet on Xiamen Air (MF) from LAX. It was an amazing journey which included walking around Lhasa's fascinating old town, watching monks pray in smoky monasteries, and spending the night near Everest Base Camp at an altitude over 17,000 feet.
My trip began at my home (or at least the closest "real" airport to my home) airport - BNA - on board a brand new Delta A319. Flight was uneventful and got me to LAX on time. Enjoyed my walk outside to TBIT in typically gorgeous LA weather.
United had not yet imposed its "you have to have a boarding pass on Star Alliance" rule so I was able to partake in the United Club for a couple of hours. It is a LONG walk from TBIT but at least with the new connector you don't have to clear security again. The underbelly of LAX is pretty desolate - I was the only person in the tunnels for most of my long walk to the United terminal. The Club was nice but nothing special. It did have a viewing platform outside but there was little of interest to see.
Unfortunately MF uses the temporary extension to TBIT - my first time down there and it is pretty sad. Reminds me of a cross between a dirty bus station and being in line at the DMV. Anyway, after hour-plus delay, we were bussed to a remote boarding structure and herded onto the plane. Once on board the atmosphere was much nicer, a brand-spanking new 787-9. First time I had seen rainbow mood lighting . . .
A late arrival in Xiamen meant a literal mad dash through baggage claim and immigration (with some line-skipping help from friendly MF ground personnel) to make sure I got on my flight to Chongqing. I barely made it - was the last person to board. I was winded, sweaty, and tired and think I slept the entire way to CKG. Once there, we deplaned and then got back on the same aircraft, a 737-700, for our continuation on to Lhasa.
LXA is not an easy destination to reach but I made it and met my tour guide just past security. It is impossible to travel in Tibet without an organized tour - but I found our guide to be very knowledgeable and ended up making great friends with other travelers in our group. The weather in Lhasa was gorgeous although the altitude (12,000 feet) was noticeable when carrying bags or walking up a flight of stairs. Airport gift shop had oxygen canisters for sale but I didn't partake.
It takes a little less than an hour to drive form the airport to the city and the scenery is stunning - snow capped mountains and dry valleys. First glimpse of the Potala Palace was amazing - it is one of the those iconic structures like the Great Pyramids or Sydney Opera House that it is hard to believe you are actually seeing in person. I remember wanting to go to Tibet and explore the Potala ever since seeing it in a movie at Epcot World Showcase when I was a little boy. As it was early afternoon, I forced myself to stay awake and walked around Lhasa (on my own - that is permitted) for a few hours. Figured I would try Chinese fast food - "dicos" - for dinner because I was tired and not feeling too adventurous. I thought the monk in line in front of me ordering french fries was a pretty apt symbol of the current state of affairs in Lhasa - old and new mixed and yet still seeming very separate from one another.
Finally it was time to crash - the Yak Hotel is not fancy but it did the trick with warm wool blankets, a good shower, and decent breakfast.
Since I arrived a day early (both because that is when the MF flight was and because it gave me time to acclimatize) the next day I was able to explore Lhasa without a guide with a friend from the UK I met on the airport bus. We had a great day just walking around and also found a monastery on a hill that offered a great (and Instagram-worthy) vantage point on the Potala.
After a semi-delicious dinner of Tibetan beer and yak dumplings (and a not-at-all delicious sample of yak butter tea) it was time to retire for the night - tour officialoly started in the morning.
A guy in my group who now lives in Guangzhou had grown up in Tennessee and spent the summers with his grandparents in my hometown in Alabama. It really is a small world. We spent the day visiting monasteries which unfortunately you cannot photograph inside. I did get to capture a fantastic sand mandala and take some video of the monk debates at the Sera Monastery - which are held daily between students and teachers and were quite interesting to watch.
The following day we got to tour the Jokhang Temple and the Potala - the interiors were amazing. People from around Tibet make pilgrimages to the Jokhang Temple to pray and it was fascinating to see and be a part of.
There were very few Westerners around - my friends and I were walking by a photo shoot and were asked to pose in an advertisement for some sort of product. Happy to oblige. No idea what it was I was endorsing.
In the morning it was time to head toward Everest base camp - a two day drive with an overnight stop in Tibet's second city of Xigatse. I couldn't help myself with the cheesy yak photo opportunity on one of the mountain passes - and my friend did the same with the gigantic Tibetan mastiffs.
Prayer flags at Yamdrok high pass and gorgeous views of sacred Yamdrok lake.
After several days of eating yak I was excited to see "fried chicken" on the menu where we stopped for lunch. I did not picture a gutted chicken chopped up with a cleaver and fried with no breading. It was pretty gross.
After an afternoon of amazing scenery, we finally made it to Xigatse for a quick overnight stop.
The next morning we set out for Qomolangma National Park and the base of Everest. Unfortunately it was cloudy (and sometimes snowing) and we did not see the vista of high Himalayas from Gawu-la pass (the tallest mountains on Earth are behind those clouds) though the view as still breathtaking.
We finally arrived at Rongbuk Monastery Guesthouse - the highest "hotel" in the world. While the facilities were, ahem, basic, they did have a gerry-rigged (and somewhat dodgy) system of electric blankets fed off a generator so at least we weren't freezing at night. It was very hard to sleep because of the altitude but I fared better than the one young kid in our group (age 10) who struggled breathing, as did the couple of people over 55.
In the morning we woke at first light and got a glimpse of the north face of Everest - not the view I was hoping for but pretty impressive nonetheless. Glad we got up when we did because bad weather moved in and obscured the top 2/3 of the mountain within an hour. The summit was always shrouded in clouds but it is just above the ridge on the right.
It is possible to drive from the Rongbuk Monastery to the tents at "tourist" base camp down the road and from there walk about 20 minutes to the farthest point one can go without a climbing permit. Climbing season had ended about two weeks before our arrival and the "real" base camp is just over a hill past the "tourist halts" sign. There was a Chinese soldier in a military jeep to prevent anybody going further but from all indications he appeared to be very much asleep.
With gazing upon Everest ticked off my bucket list, it was time to start the two day drive back to Lhasa. Enjoyed a stop at the Tashi Lhupo monastery in Xigatse - traditional home of the Panchen Lama.
Last night in Lhasa spent at a rooftop bar reflecting on an amazing week. There is a lot of political baggage surrounding Tibet (which I am not about to touch in this forum) and getting the requisite permits is kind of a pain but it is very well worth it to visit. I learned a lot about Buddhism and the Tibetan people, made good friends, and saw amazing scenery. It was a great trip.
The return trip to Xiamen via Chongqing was uneventful but delayed several hours. Being stuck in the Lhasa airport all afternoon got old - you cannot leave after you enter and there is absolutely nothing to do. Finally boarded my MF 737-700, deplaned and re-boarded in CKG, and arrived in XMN pretty late at night.
I used Hilton points to book a stay and the excellent Conrad in Xiamen, which I felt was deserved after the accommodations at the Rongbuk Monastery Guesthouse. Pretty much the best breakfast spread I have seen at a hotel. Ended up sleeping late and having to see Gulangyu Island (European colonial trading outpost known as Amoy) from the top of the adjoining building instead of taking the ferry over. For some reason foreigners cannot take the easy 5 minute ferry ride and instead have to undergo a cumbersome trip to the international ferry terminal and I was too tight on time. Xiamen looked to be a very livable seaside city with a large university and I would like to return and see more of it one day.
Back to the airport after a too-short morning in Xiamen. My 787-9 would make a brief stop in Qingdao and the proceed on to LAX. It was cool boarding a 787 via air-stairs and being so close to those huge engines. I ended up with an entire row to myself after the Qingdao stop and slept for probably 10 hours. Best sleep I have ever had on a flight in economy.
Arrived to a smoggy LAX and then a red-eye on an American 737-800 back to BNA, just in time to drive home, shower, and make it to work at 8 a.m. Apart from using the horrible temporary terminal at TBIT and the delays, MF was perfectly fine and I would fly them again. Also nice to earn Skymiles for my trip since MF is a Skyteam partner. If you should find a great deal to get to Tibet, take the plunge and go. You will not regret it.
My trip began at my home (or at least the closest "real" airport to my home) airport - BNA - on board a brand new Delta A319. Flight was uneventful and got me to LAX on time. Enjoyed my walk outside to TBIT in typically gorgeous LA weather.
United had not yet imposed its "you have to have a boarding pass on Star Alliance" rule so I was able to partake in the United Club for a couple of hours. It is a LONG walk from TBIT but at least with the new connector you don't have to clear security again. The underbelly of LAX is pretty desolate - I was the only person in the tunnels for most of my long walk to the United terminal. The Club was nice but nothing special. It did have a viewing platform outside but there was little of interest to see.
Unfortunately MF uses the temporary extension to TBIT - my first time down there and it is pretty sad. Reminds me of a cross between a dirty bus station and being in line at the DMV. Anyway, after hour-plus delay, we were bussed to a remote boarding structure and herded onto the plane. Once on board the atmosphere was much nicer, a brand-spanking new 787-9. First time I had seen rainbow mood lighting . . .
A late arrival in Xiamen meant a literal mad dash through baggage claim and immigration (with some line-skipping help from friendly MF ground personnel) to make sure I got on my flight to Chongqing. I barely made it - was the last person to board. I was winded, sweaty, and tired and think I slept the entire way to CKG. Once there, we deplaned and then got back on the same aircraft, a 737-700, for our continuation on to Lhasa.
LXA is not an easy destination to reach but I made it and met my tour guide just past security. It is impossible to travel in Tibet without an organized tour - but I found our guide to be very knowledgeable and ended up making great friends with other travelers in our group. The weather in Lhasa was gorgeous although the altitude (12,000 feet) was noticeable when carrying bags or walking up a flight of stairs. Airport gift shop had oxygen canisters for sale but I didn't partake.
It takes a little less than an hour to drive form the airport to the city and the scenery is stunning - snow capped mountains and dry valleys. First glimpse of the Potala Palace was amazing - it is one of the those iconic structures like the Great Pyramids or Sydney Opera House that it is hard to believe you are actually seeing in person. I remember wanting to go to Tibet and explore the Potala ever since seeing it in a movie at Epcot World Showcase when I was a little boy. As it was early afternoon, I forced myself to stay awake and walked around Lhasa (on my own - that is permitted) for a few hours. Figured I would try Chinese fast food - "dicos" - for dinner because I was tired and not feeling too adventurous. I thought the monk in line in front of me ordering french fries was a pretty apt symbol of the current state of affairs in Lhasa - old and new mixed and yet still seeming very separate from one another.
Finally it was time to crash - the Yak Hotel is not fancy but it did the trick with warm wool blankets, a good shower, and decent breakfast.
Since I arrived a day early (both because that is when the MF flight was and because it gave me time to acclimatize) the next day I was able to explore Lhasa without a guide with a friend from the UK I met on the airport bus. We had a great day just walking around and also found a monastery on a hill that offered a great (and Instagram-worthy) vantage point on the Potala.
After a semi-delicious dinner of Tibetan beer and yak dumplings (and a not-at-all delicious sample of yak butter tea) it was time to retire for the night - tour officialoly started in the morning.
A guy in my group who now lives in Guangzhou had grown up in Tennessee and spent the summers with his grandparents in my hometown in Alabama. It really is a small world. We spent the day visiting monasteries which unfortunately you cannot photograph inside. I did get to capture a fantastic sand mandala and take some video of the monk debates at the Sera Monastery - which are held daily between students and teachers and were quite interesting to watch.
The following day we got to tour the Jokhang Temple and the Potala - the interiors were amazing. People from around Tibet make pilgrimages to the Jokhang Temple to pray and it was fascinating to see and be a part of.
There were very few Westerners around - my friends and I were walking by a photo shoot and were asked to pose in an advertisement for some sort of product. Happy to oblige. No idea what it was I was endorsing.
In the morning it was time to head toward Everest base camp - a two day drive with an overnight stop in Tibet's second city of Xigatse. I couldn't help myself with the cheesy yak photo opportunity on one of the mountain passes - and my friend did the same with the gigantic Tibetan mastiffs.
Prayer flags at Yamdrok high pass and gorgeous views of sacred Yamdrok lake.
After several days of eating yak I was excited to see "fried chicken" on the menu where we stopped for lunch. I did not picture a gutted chicken chopped up with a cleaver and fried with no breading. It was pretty gross.
After an afternoon of amazing scenery, we finally made it to Xigatse for a quick overnight stop.
The next morning we set out for Qomolangma National Park and the base of Everest. Unfortunately it was cloudy (and sometimes snowing) and we did not see the vista of high Himalayas from Gawu-la pass (the tallest mountains on Earth are behind those clouds) though the view as still breathtaking.
We finally arrived at Rongbuk Monastery Guesthouse - the highest "hotel" in the world. While the facilities were, ahem, basic, they did have a gerry-rigged (and somewhat dodgy) system of electric blankets fed off a generator so at least we weren't freezing at night. It was very hard to sleep because of the altitude but I fared better than the one young kid in our group (age 10) who struggled breathing, as did the couple of people over 55.
In the morning we woke at first light and got a glimpse of the north face of Everest - not the view I was hoping for but pretty impressive nonetheless. Glad we got up when we did because bad weather moved in and obscured the top 2/3 of the mountain within an hour. The summit was always shrouded in clouds but it is just above the ridge on the right.
It is possible to drive from the Rongbuk Monastery to the tents at "tourist" base camp down the road and from there walk about 20 minutes to the farthest point one can go without a climbing permit. Climbing season had ended about two weeks before our arrival and the "real" base camp is just over a hill past the "tourist halts" sign. There was a Chinese soldier in a military jeep to prevent anybody going further but from all indications he appeared to be very much asleep.
With gazing upon Everest ticked off my bucket list, it was time to start the two day drive back to Lhasa. Enjoyed a stop at the Tashi Lhupo monastery in Xigatse - traditional home of the Panchen Lama.
Last night in Lhasa spent at a rooftop bar reflecting on an amazing week. There is a lot of political baggage surrounding Tibet (which I am not about to touch in this forum) and getting the requisite permits is kind of a pain but it is very well worth it to visit. I learned a lot about Buddhism and the Tibetan people, made good friends, and saw amazing scenery. It was a great trip.
The return trip to Xiamen via Chongqing was uneventful but delayed several hours. Being stuck in the Lhasa airport all afternoon got old - you cannot leave after you enter and there is absolutely nothing to do. Finally boarded my MF 737-700, deplaned and re-boarded in CKG, and arrived in XMN pretty late at night.
I used Hilton points to book a stay and the excellent Conrad in Xiamen, which I felt was deserved after the accommodations at the Rongbuk Monastery Guesthouse. Pretty much the best breakfast spread I have seen at a hotel. Ended up sleeping late and having to see Gulangyu Island (European colonial trading outpost known as Amoy) from the top of the adjoining building instead of taking the ferry over. For some reason foreigners cannot take the easy 5 minute ferry ride and instead have to undergo a cumbersome trip to the international ferry terminal and I was too tight on time. Xiamen looked to be a very livable seaside city with a large university and I would like to return and see more of it one day.
Back to the airport after a too-short morning in Xiamen. My 787-9 would make a brief stop in Qingdao and the proceed on to LAX. It was cool boarding a 787 via air-stairs and being so close to those huge engines. I ended up with an entire row to myself after the Qingdao stop and slept for probably 10 hours. Best sleep I have ever had on a flight in economy.
Arrived to a smoggy LAX and then a red-eye on an American 737-800 back to BNA, just in time to drive home, shower, and make it to work at 8 a.m. Apart from using the horrible temporary terminal at TBIT and the delays, MF was perfectly fine and I would fly them again. Also nice to earn Skymiles for my trip since MF is a Skyteam partner. If you should find a great deal to get to Tibet, take the plunge and go. You will not regret it.
.
Nov 25, 2018, 2:23 pm
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 14
I did not see anybody taking photos in the Potala at all. Our guides were pretty adamant that they would get in trouble if anyone took photographs and I think it would be disrespectful to the Buddhist monks - who were everywhere in most of the temples and monasteries. Strangely (or maybe not given the political situation) the Potala seemed quite empty considering its size and I did not see too many locals around.
Nov 25, 2018, 2:26 pm
#8
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 14
I did take Diamox starting when I got on the plane in Los Angeles. I had taken it before in Peru but this time it caused my extremities to tingle a little bit which was annoying but better than mountain sickness. One word of warning, Diamox is either difficult or impossible to find once in Tibet so get some before you go.
Nov 25, 2018, 2:49 pm
#9
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: BNA (Nashville)
Programs: HH Diamond
Posts: 6,225
Did you go outside the adjacent building in Xiamen like the two guys you photographed?
What was the highest altitude that you think you got to in your tour?
Amazing trip, thanks for sharing it. The Potala Palace is something I have wanted to see since I saw it in a National Geographic magazine as a kid.
I struggle a lot with altitude sickness so the Diamox is a great suggestion. I think I would need that just for Lhasa.
What was the highest altitude that you think you got to in your tour?
Amazing trip, thanks for sharing it. The Potala Palace is something I have wanted to see since I saw it in a National Geographic magazine as a kid.
I struggle a lot with altitude sickness so the Diamox is a great suggestion. I think I would need that just for Lhasa.
Nov 26, 2018, 8:56 pm
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 14
Did you go outside the adjacent building in Xiamen like the two guys you photographed?
I would have loved too but the line was too long. No fear of heights here - just claustrophobic lol.
What was the highest altitude that you think you got to in your tour?
Base camp at Everest is a little over 17,000 feet - there may have been one pass that was just a bit higher, 17,200 feet or so. It was snowing at that pass and one other - the road was not particularly scary though we did see a couple of abandoned vehicles that had wrecked and rolled a long way down.
Amazing trip, thanks for sharing it. The Potala Palace is something I have wanted to see since I saw it in a National Geographic magazine as a kid.
Me too!
I struggle a lot with altitude sickness so the Diamox is a great suggestion. I think I would need that just for Lhasa.
It can't hurt. I took it in 2016 on the Inca Trail in Peru and it helped then. The worst side effect that is that you have to pee every 30 minutes.
I would have loved too but the line was too long. No fear of heights here - just claustrophobic lol.
What was the highest altitude that you think you got to in your tour?
Base camp at Everest is a little over 17,000 feet - there may have been one pass that was just a bit higher, 17,200 feet or so. It was snowing at that pass and one other - the road was not particularly scary though we did see a couple of abandoned vehicles that had wrecked and rolled a long way down.
Amazing trip, thanks for sharing it. The Potala Palace is something I have wanted to see since I saw it in a National Geographic magazine as a kid.
Me too!
I struggle a lot with altitude sickness so the Diamox is a great suggestion. I think I would need that just for Lhasa.
It can't hurt. I took it in 2016 on the Inca Trail in Peru and it helped then. The worst side effect that is that you have to pee every 30 minutes.
Nov 27, 2018, 5:07 am
#15
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Sheffield, UK
Programs: EK Gold, HH Diamond, IHG Gold
Posts: 84
Fantastic!
I went to Tibet in 2015 with my wife, we followed the same route as yourself with the ultimate aim of staying at the Rombuk before making our way into Kathmandu, but unfortunately the disasterous earthquake hit whilst we were en route in Xigaze so we made our way back to Lhasa (feeling very lucky indeed). What a fantastic time we had in Tibet, I absolutely loved the place, never been in so many monasteries in my life hehe (they all smell the same too don't they!). Your great report brought back amazing memories and a smile to my face, thank you.