Solo Trip - Patagonia
Jul 18, 2018, 9:16 am
#16
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 285
Getting down there is a pain, but I'm sure you found it worth it in the end. I was able to get to TdP a little more directly. I flew on to Punta Arenas the same day my flight landed in SCL, then caught a bus that same evening on up to Puerto Natales (direct from the PUQ airport). From your description, I'm glad I didn't spend a night in Punta Arenas. Cool that you splurged on Singular!
Jul 18, 2018, 6:19 pm
#17
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 285
I had originally planned to kayak Lake Grey for 18 miles this morning but I ended up bailing since my foot was in pretty bad shape and I was pretty tired. With no boots and mentally exhausted from the whole ordeal, I decided to stay and enjoy my hotel for the day. Looking back, I do kind of regret it because I felt like it would of been an amazing experience kayaking with glaciers. I ended up sleeping in and had a huge breakfast.
Caught up with the wife and tell her how dumb I was for not checking my boots. Swam in the pool and walked around the property. I also ended up having my laundry done, I definitely needed it.
Puerto Natales -> El Calafate (Bus Sur)
The next morning, I had breakfast and got dropped off at the bus station to my destination, Argentina!! We ended up stopping at the border to get checked and stamped. Pretty cool, no gates or walls here!
We arrived in El Calafate after roughly 5 hours in mid afternoon. The bus station is far from town so I ended up taking a taxi. Fortunately for me, my hotel (Esplendor Calafate) ended up walking me. Pretty strange considering they still had availability online. Ended up staying at Hotel El Mirador del Lago which was a hotel further away from town, the reception there was much nicer. Really got no sympathy from Esplendor who wanted me to come back the next night too. Not sure how they can find that acceptable at all..
El Calafate is a very touristy town and it really felt like Disney World after TdP. I planned on doing the big glacier hike but I needed boots! Luckily, I found a very reputable place but it was a 20 min walk across town and 20 minutes back. Ugh...more importantly I did end up getting laced up and I felt a lot better knowing I can continue beating my body up some more.
cheap dinner
Called it in early to wake up for my 7am big hike on Petrino Morino Glacier. The company itself picks you up and I was the last stop before proceeding towards the glacier. I ended up buying a packed lunch from the hotel, which was awful again. After a two hour ride, we get to the viewpoint of the glacier. And christ, it was everything you thought it would be. See below.
After 30 minutes we drove to a dock to get transported to the glacier. Once there, we met our guides and our crampons.
picnic anyone?
From here, it was another 30 minute hike..ugh. It rained a lot and the winds were kicking of course.
We're on!
how cool is this?
Up down and it goes on forever. One of the best experiences in my life.
soaked but worth it
polar bear plunge anyone?
what's for dinner bud?
ice crevase
lunch views
goes on forever..
nice natural water slide
Wish I got to stay longer. We spent about 3 hours on the glacier before turning back. It was a pretty tiring day. Ended up asking the tour to drop me off by the rental shop (thank god). There were a few places I wanted to try for dinner but it was quite early. I made reservations the night before at Mi Rancho but I tried my luck and ended up walking in right away. The food was really good and its always amazing to see how different cuisines taste. I'd highly recommend this place! After a very full dinner, I had to slug myself back to the hotel. Took a much needed shower and knocked out.
destroyed both
Next up, an early transfer to El Chalten!
Caught up with the wife and tell her how dumb I was for not checking my boots. Swam in the pool and walked around the property. I also ended up having my laundry done, I definitely needed it.
Puerto Natales -> El Calafate (Bus Sur)
The next morning, I had breakfast and got dropped off at the bus station to my destination, Argentina!! We ended up stopping at the border to get checked and stamped. Pretty cool, no gates or walls here!
We arrived in El Calafate after roughly 5 hours in mid afternoon. The bus station is far from town so I ended up taking a taxi. Fortunately for me, my hotel (Esplendor Calafate) ended up walking me. Pretty strange considering they still had availability online. Ended up staying at Hotel El Mirador del Lago which was a hotel further away from town, the reception there was much nicer. Really got no sympathy from Esplendor who wanted me to come back the next night too. Not sure how they can find that acceptable at all..
El Calafate is a very touristy town and it really felt like Disney World after TdP. I planned on doing the big glacier hike but I needed boots! Luckily, I found a very reputable place but it was a 20 min walk across town and 20 minutes back. Ugh...more importantly I did end up getting laced up and I felt a lot better knowing I can continue beating my body up some more.
cheap dinner
Called it in early to wake up for my 7am big hike on Petrino Morino Glacier. The company itself picks you up and I was the last stop before proceeding towards the glacier. I ended up buying a packed lunch from the hotel, which was awful again. After a two hour ride, we get to the viewpoint of the glacier. And christ, it was everything you thought it would be. See below.
After 30 minutes we drove to a dock to get transported to the glacier. Once there, we met our guides and our crampons.
picnic anyone?
From here, it was another 30 minute hike..ugh. It rained a lot and the winds were kicking of course.
We're on!
how cool is this?
Up down and it goes on forever. One of the best experiences in my life.
soaked but worth it
polar bear plunge anyone?
what's for dinner bud?
ice crevase
lunch views
goes on forever..
nice natural water slide
Wish I got to stay longer. We spent about 3 hours on the glacier before turning back. It was a pretty tiring day. Ended up asking the tour to drop me off by the rental shop (thank god). There were a few places I wanted to try for dinner but it was quite early. I made reservations the night before at Mi Rancho but I tried my luck and ended up walking in right away. The food was really good and its always amazing to see how different cuisines taste. I'd highly recommend this place! After a very full dinner, I had to slug myself back to the hotel. Took a much needed shower and knocked out.
destroyed both
Next up, an early transfer to El Chalten!
Jul 19, 2018, 6:40 am
#20
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Melbourne
Programs: QF, EK
Posts: 52
Absolutely stunning scenery! Great photos. I’m really enjoying your TR. I’m hoping to get over to Patagonia in the next 18 months so this is great to read about your adventure. The hike on the glacier looks fantastic!
That must have been awful with the broken boot. Ouch. Good to read you got a replacement part way though.
And congrats on the new baby!
That must have been awful with the broken boot. Ouch. Good to read you got a replacement part way though.
And congrats on the new baby!
Jul 20, 2018, 7:19 pm
#23
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 285
El Calafate -> El Chalten
I preordered a van that does pick up and drop off from hotel to hotel between the two places. Very cheap and convienent (Las Lengas), they were very responsive with emails prior to the trip. The bus station in El Chalten is at the beginning of town and the trail for most of the hikes are at the end of town, which is mainly why I went with the shared van option. I decided on staying at the Destino Sur hotel because it was super close to the trailhead. My efficiency backfired of course since I needed a roundtrip van transfer, Las Lengas required me to go to their office to confirm times/prepay my return back to El Calafate. The office is right by the bus station
hitchhike?
stopped here for a few minutes, wish be got closer!
First impressions of El Chalten were okay. First thing was getting a pair of boots as I had a long hike the next day. Unfortunately, the shops near the hotel didnt have my size...hence we walk. 20 minutes later, I end up finding place but they required a passport for deposit. Weird but I had no choice at the time. I didn't have a great feeling leaving my passport with someone, they wouldn't hold a credit card or regular ID. Had to be a passport, never heard of this before. I didn't have it on me so I did the walk of shame back to the hotel since I didn't have it on me, so much for resting. I didn't want to eat packed hotel lunches anymore so I settled on buying empanadas at a local bakery. Very tasty! For dinner, ended up eating Italian which wasnt so bad. Needed a switchup from all the meat I ate on this trip.
awful lunch
11pm in El Chalten
I only had enough time to do one hike in El Chalten, decided on doing Los Lagunas Tres. There are two routes to get to Los Lagunas Tres. The main trail was by my hotel or you could prebook a van to the backside which had less people and less incline. Sign me up van was fully packed and ended up being a 15 min ride. Quite expensive at 15USD but my legs were pretty sore at this point.
Lagunas is cut off, top left corner ><
Some views of the trail entrance. Glacier views.
The hike went by pretty quick, until the last few kms. It was straight up a mountain with zig zags. Literally killed me. Some pictures along the way.
About an hour later of vertical incline, made it to the top!
look how tiny people are
I just kept thinking wow I did it. I actually did it all. Whenever I do these kind of long hikes, I always ask myself in the middle of it, why do I do this for fun?. I'm never doing something like this again....Definitely felt like that at times but everything was so so beautiful, it really kept me at ease. A few more shots below.
well deserved treat for myself at the top
I noticed people climbing another viewpoint so I told myself, whats another hill? And boy it was worth it. Super nice surprise. I also caught some ice falling on film. Very cool.
no words
Unfortunately, time to go back down...I really pushed myself and basically ran/jump down passing by pretty much everyone. I think i just wanted it all to be done with at that point. It was a pretty dumb move on my part. After getting down the hard part, my legs were shaking and in a lot of pain. I had to take so many breaks from the pain and drank about 10 liters of water because I was afraid my knees would lock up from dehydration.
One last viewpoint before seeing civilization
Finally made it down after what ended up being a 10 hour day. After a much needed shower, I definitely needed a treat. Read about this place called La Tapera and it did not disappoint. Lots of tourists of course and it took awhile to get seated. I had the filet mignons of course. Very tasty.
Was a struggle to walk home, went straight to bed after another shower. Time to pack again!
El Chalten -> El Calafate Airport -> Bueno Aires
Ordered a van pickup (Las Lengas) from the hotel to El Calafate airport. Very easy and professional. Airport was tiny as expected. Had a few hours to kill so ended up scarfing some empanadas for breakfast. I ended up flying Aerolinas Argentinas which had a high price of 20k skymiles. Always a pleasant day when you find use for those efficiently. Plane was half empty. A short enjoyable 3 hour journey.
Felt very strange landing in the big city. I flew into the domestic airport which was right above the city. Sometimes I forget to take pictures so I can take in the views. Sorry! I wanted to stay at the Park Hyatt on points but there was no availability. Looked like a wedding going on, heard so many great things about it. Decided to stay in the Recelotoes area and settled on a Relais Chateaux hotel, Algodon. Very small intimate hotel. The receptionist was quite friendly and helpful. Free booze and snacks!
My lowly king room. Bathroom was very nice. Bed felt like heaven after all that hiking. I only had one thing planned for Bueno Aires. Eat and eat well. City itself was quite beautiful. I can see why they call it the Paris of South America.
heaven..
Didnt get to venture out so much. Some of the highlights I saw.
Bueno Aires -> Newark Airport
Traffic in Bueno Aires is no joke. I left about 3 hours before my flight. Pretty much took two hours to get to the airport. Luckily I was flying in J United so I got checked in right away (couldn't check it online) and security was a breeze. Decided to check out the Star Alliance lounge real quick. No real food options but the lounge was visually appealling.
Happy and sad to be going home. Back to the reality. Seat and showtime on United old ... J seats.
Ended up being a red eye flight and I actually went straight to work with my backpack and hiking clothes. I definitely got some interesting looks at work. Til next time! Most likely backtracking and will do my next report on Mallorca just two months prior to this. Hope you enjoyed this trip to Patagonia with me. I wish I had more time to explore the rest of Chile and Argentina.
I preordered a van that does pick up and drop off from hotel to hotel between the two places. Very cheap and convienent (Las Lengas), they were very responsive with emails prior to the trip. The bus station in El Chalten is at the beginning of town and the trail for most of the hikes are at the end of town, which is mainly why I went with the shared van option. I decided on staying at the Destino Sur hotel because it was super close to the trailhead. My efficiency backfired of course since I needed a roundtrip van transfer, Las Lengas required me to go to their office to confirm times/prepay my return back to El Calafate. The office is right by the bus station
hitchhike?
stopped here for a few minutes, wish be got closer!
First impressions of El Chalten were okay. First thing was getting a pair of boots as I had a long hike the next day. Unfortunately, the shops near the hotel didnt have my size...hence we walk. 20 minutes later, I end up finding place but they required a passport for deposit. Weird but I had no choice at the time. I didn't have a great feeling leaving my passport with someone, they wouldn't hold a credit card or regular ID. Had to be a passport, never heard of this before. I didn't have it on me so I did the walk of shame back to the hotel since I didn't have it on me, so much for resting. I didn't want to eat packed hotel lunches anymore so I settled on buying empanadas at a local bakery. Very tasty! For dinner, ended up eating Italian which wasnt so bad. Needed a switchup from all the meat I ate on this trip.
awful lunch
11pm in El Chalten
I only had enough time to do one hike in El Chalten, decided on doing Los Lagunas Tres. There are two routes to get to Los Lagunas Tres. The main trail was by my hotel or you could prebook a van to the backside which had less people and less incline. Sign me up
van was fully packed and ended up being a 15 min ride. Quite expensive at 15USD but my legs were pretty sore at this point.Lagunas is cut off, top left corner ><
Some views of the trail entrance. Glacier views.
The hike went by pretty quick, until the last few kms. It was straight up a mountain with zig zags. Literally killed me. Some pictures along the way.
About an hour later of vertical incline, made it to the top!
look how tiny people are
I just kept thinking wow I did it. I actually did it all. Whenever I do these kind of long hikes, I always ask myself in the middle of it, why do I do this for fun?. I'm never doing something like this again....Definitely felt like that at times but everything was so so beautiful, it really kept me at ease. A few more shots below.
well deserved treat for myself at the top
I noticed people climbing another viewpoint so I told myself, whats another hill? And boy it was worth it. Super nice surprise. I also caught some ice falling on film. Very cool.
no words
Unfortunately, time to go back down...I really pushed myself and basically ran/jump down passing by pretty much everyone. I think i just wanted it all to be done with at that point. It was a pretty dumb move on my part. After getting down the hard part, my legs were shaking and in a lot of pain. I had to take so many breaks from the pain and drank about 10 liters of water because I was afraid my knees would lock up from dehydration.
One last viewpoint before seeing civilization
Finally made it down after what ended up being a 10 hour day. After a much needed shower, I definitely needed a treat. Read about this place called La Tapera and it did not disappoint. Lots of tourists of course and it took awhile to get seated. I had the filet mignons of course. Very tasty.
Was a struggle to walk home, went straight to bed after another shower. Time to pack again!
El Chalten -> El Calafate Airport -> Bueno Aires
Ordered a van pickup (Las Lengas) from the hotel to El Calafate airport. Very easy and professional. Airport was tiny as expected. Had a few hours to kill so ended up scarfing some empanadas for breakfast. I ended up flying Aerolinas Argentinas which had a high price of 20k skymiles
. Always a pleasant day when you find use for those efficiently. Plane was half empty. A short enjoyable 3 hour journey.Felt very strange landing in the big city. I flew into the domestic airport which was right above the city. Sometimes I forget to take pictures so I can take in the views. Sorry! I wanted to stay at the Park Hyatt on points but there was no availability. Looked like a wedding going on, heard so many great things about it. Decided to stay in the Recelotoes area and settled on a Relais Chateaux hotel, Algodon. Very small intimate hotel. The receptionist was quite friendly and helpful. Free booze and snacks!
My lowly king room. Bathroom was very nice. Bed felt like heaven after all that hiking. I only had one thing planned for Bueno Aires. Eat and eat well. City itself was quite beautiful. I can see why they call it the Paris of South America.
heaven..
Didnt get to venture out so much. Some of the highlights I saw.
Bueno Aires -> Newark Airport
Traffic in Bueno Aires is no joke. I left about 3 hours before my flight. Pretty much took two hours to get to the airport. Luckily I was flying in J United so I got checked in right away (couldn't check it online) and security was a breeze. Decided to check out the Star Alliance lounge real quick. No real food options but the lounge was visually appealling.
Happy and sad to be going home. Back to the reality. Seat and showtime on United old ... J seats.
Ended up being a red eye flight and I actually went straight to work with my backpack and hiking clothes. I definitely got some interesting looks at work. Til next time! Most likely backtracking and will do my next report on Mallorca just two months prior to this. Hope you enjoyed this trip to Patagonia with me. I wish I had more time to explore the rest of Chile and Argentina.
Jul 21, 2018, 8:42 pm
#25
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 84
Those are stunning views at Los Lagunas Tres, and it was worth the extra little ciimb for the overlook of the lake. Thanks for the nice trip report! What was the elevation gain on the Los Lagunas Tres hike overall? How did that one compare to doing Mirador Las Torres and back in one day?
Jul 23, 2018, 5:49 am
#27
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 285
Those are stunning views at Los Lagunas Tres, and it was worth the extra little ciimb for the overlook of the lake. Thanks for the nice trip report! What was the elevation gain on the Los Lagunas Tres hike overall? How did that one compare to doing Mirador Las Torres and back in one day?
Hielo y Aventura. Trekking y Navegacion en THE GLACIER Perito Moreno
Jul 30, 2018, 5:37 am
#29
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 285
Late November. weather was great, I'd recommend late November or early December. Jan and Feb are high season for sure. Campsites book very fast, I found availability for everything 3 weeks out including award flights.
Jul 31, 2018, 8:21 am
#30
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 6
Great report and TDP info
What a great trip report! I was also there in November 2017! I made a mistake of using new shoes that I had not properly tested on technical terrain. Almost ruined my trip, butchering my feet the first day and a half until I got the lacing system figured out and the proper pair of socks in the mix. The power and prevalence of the wind in Patagonia cannot be overstated. It’s amazing... and can crush your mind and body if you are not prepared. The weather is truly a continuous episode of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde!
If there is anyone out there reading this that is interested in doing the W trek or some portions of it, I have some advice in my trip blog. Unfortunately I can’t ipost it here because I am too new to share a URL. I can be reached for direct messaging though.
All together: wreed nelson at yahoo. Com.
If there is anyone out there reading this that is interested in doing the W trek or some portions of it, I have some advice in my trip blog. Unfortunately I can’t ipost it here because I am too new to share a URL. I can be reached for direct messaging though.
All together: wreed nelson at yahoo. Com.