Shhh, Don't Tell Mamma: Mogadishu to Mecca, with a taste of Djibouti
Feb 25, 2018, 12:52 pm
#31
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: BNA (Nashville)
Programs: HH Diamond
Posts: 6,227
2 car bombs yesterday in Mogadishu, one near the presidential palace. After seeing this trip report and your pictures of smiling locals, once you can put faces to the places, the death and destruction seems more horrible and sad to me. It's not some remote event in some nameless and faceless place.
Maybe trip reports like yours help humanize some of these places where things are so difficult and your pictures serve to remind us that there are actual people living in these war zones. Thanks for that.
Maybe trip reports like yours help humanize some of these places where things are so difficult and your pictures serve to remind us that there are actual people living in these war zones. Thanks for that.
Feb 26, 2018, 12:33 pm
#34
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: AMS/LYS
Programs: FB Gold
Posts: 130
I'm so glad this is back!
Absolutely incredible TR so far, your pictures are gorgeous too. I'm very grateful you went all the way there and decided to share this with us because this is definitely not a trip I would undertake myself.
Absolutely incredible TR so far, your pictures are gorgeous too. I'm very grateful you went all the way there and decided to share this with us because this is definitely not a trip I would undertake myself.
Feb 26, 2018, 5:22 pm
#35
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Awesome photos of Mog
. Wow, the new airport is a serious upgrade. Looks even better than ADD
.
They did an amazing job fixing up the Sahafi, some serious blast protection just outside the hotel too. The street looks to be twice as narrow now!
Funny how someone has now moved into the Lighthouse, must be prime real estate.
Looking forward to day 2.
. Wow, the new airport is a serious upgrade. Looks even better than ADD.They did an amazing job fixing up the Sahafi, some serious blast protection just outside the hotel too. The street looks to be twice as narrow now
!Funny how someone has now moved into the Lighthouse, must be prime real estate
.Looking forward to day 2.
The hotel as secure as it is, still has gaping security oversights. You can build a wall, but there is always away around it...
I wonder how long they can remain there until the Government finally rehabs that property. I read somewhere that Somalia is in the bottom 5 of corrupt countries.
Haven't made it yet, but Rawanda has the only airport in Africa (outside of northern arab states) worthy of being called an airport. The new NBO terminal isn't Awful...
Judging from the writing in Italian, the monument must have been built before World War II to honour the 'unknown soldier' (In italian "Milite Ignoto"). I am assuming it might refer to anybody from the area who died in World War I, Italy like France and the UK had 'colonials' serving in the army and Somalia was an Italian colony (not the whole country, Somaliland used to be British!)
2 car bombs yesterday in Mogadishu, one near the presidential palace. After seeing this trip report and your pictures of smiling locals, once you can put faces to the places, the death and destruction seems more horrible and sad to me. It's not some remote event in some nameless and faceless place.
Maybe trip reports like yours help humanize some of these places where things are so difficult and your pictures serve to remind us that there are actual people living in these war zones. Thanks for that.
Maybe trip reports like yours help humanize some of these places where things are so difficult and your pictures serve to remind us that there are actual people living in these war zones. Thanks for that.
I really enjoy portrait photography when I travel so I can share with friends and family that these 'faces of evil' are just people like us, looking for a better life.
Thank god for GPS stamps on my photos.
Feb 27, 2018, 11:37 am
#37
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: YOW
Programs: AC 75K
Posts: 583
Looking forward to the rest of your report! Somalia is one of those countries that, at least for me anyways, is intriguing just for the very fact that so few people travel to. Hope in the coming decade things can stabilize a bit, would love to travel there if the security risks were minimized.
Mar 13, 2018, 1:28 pm
#40
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Programs: AA EXP 2MM, HH DIA, Hertz PC, GE + Pre✓, Amazon Super Special Prime
Posts: 1,008
Great report and outstanding photography! While the Mog certainly has a historical reputation for war (both factual and media driven) - the smiling locals was a great thing to see! Not a place I would venture to, but I certainly appreciate the TR you put together.
Now, about that Turtle Oil......
Now, about that Turtle Oil......
Mar 19, 2018, 8:05 pm
#41
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Mogadishu Day 2
Even though I slept about ten hours I still struggled to get up but finally relented. For breakfast I wisely chose the injera and goat liver! It was astonishingly good. In the morning I would be touring with Mohamed since Omar had other business to tend to. As we set out for the morning he told me he hopes to visit Orlando someday, ‘because of the tragedy.’ (Pulse?) Yet I had to show him a photo of Mickey Mouse before he recognized the name and even then, didn’t realize Mickey calls Orlando home.
Really yummy goat liver
I had asked to see the Belarusian cargo plane that was shot down in 2007, but was instead taken to a dump just south of the airport. It was literally the Mogadishu dump, but no Ilyushin was found. I chalked that up to a waste of time as we headed back to the city and past the Turkish military base. En route we spotted the current, yet dilapidated, National Assembly building and a structure commemorating the independence of The Dervish State until the British and Italians took control in 1920.
The road to the dump
Sadly no Ilyushin in sight, just a smelly burning mess polluting the ocean
No shortage of burned out car bodies though
Turkish Military base
The Turkish Government pledged to rebuild the current National Assembly that was destroyed in the Civil War
The statue with leader Sayyid Mohammed Abdullah Hassan atop his horse was removed during the war
It felt like we were in some distant alleyway when we drove up to a pile of APC on the corner. I explored them until my presence attracted a bit of an audience and I was ushered back in the truck. The next stop was a tank I assumed was US (or another UN supporter) but now have discovered otherwise. The tanks I saw appear to be M47 Patton Tanks which the US stopped using in the 1960s. Pakistan used armored vehicles during the weeks following the Battle of Mogadishu, but they only used M48 which look nothing like what I saw. A few streets over was another tank and a bit farther was a pile of a few more former pieces of worthless metal. Based on a bit of amateur research it seems these tanks were all Somali and used during the Ogaden War with Ethopia and later abandoned in the streets of Mogadishu.
Mogadishu suburbia
Mogadishu travel agency
Stack of Malaysian Condor APC
Four were lost during the rescue missions following the Blackhawk Down incident
Goat walking by the overturned APC
Home
M47 Patton
Unfamiliar with the emblems/flags formally painted on the side
7537163 – 1410 US (Formally US tank?)
Not just tanks are abandoned
Part of a local shop’s décor
As we drove through the city we passed a variety of checkpoints and most hardly paid us any attention, but one in particular stopped us and inspected my passport. He didn’t seem satisfied so called upon his boss who in turn brought over the big boss. It only took about five minutes but was by far the longest we ever sat still in the vehicle.
We cruised (as best one can) through the back streets of Mogadishu passing a Turkish hospital that took in many of the injured in the recent bombing. Also spotted some IDP camps and lots of khat vendors. The stimulant (plant drug) is important in mass from Kenya and not technically considered haram even though it can have an effect similar to THC. The streets in this part of town were is a state of disrepair but I was told they were next on the list for repair.
Khat depot outside an IDP camp in the heart of the city
This guy is more worldly than Mickey Mouse
”Where the Sidewalk Ends”
But no street begins
Bridge!
Back at the hotel we paused for lunch where I enjoyed really good goat, rice and some mango juice. While waiting I had a good conversation with a member of the Somali diaspora who had returned for the second time since he left the country in 1988. He does lots of business across the region and lives in the UK. After parting ways (the ever so insightful) Mohamed told me he was Somali and living in the UK. Thanks! The engagements I made in the hotel were the best since most everyone staying there spoke fluent English. I was welcomed by current and former MPs and others in town for work and family. Apparently some of the VIP of the country actually live in the hotel as it is safer and cheaper than living outside in the city.
Another fantastic meal
During lunch I taught Mohamed about the concept of online dating but he was devastated when his Chinese mobile wasn’t capable of installing Tinder. After lunch and Jumah (Friday prayer) we hit the road to the south of town.
The first stop was a camel camp where the camels are used to produce milk. Compared to the camels in the Sudanese market I visited these lucky ladies were in great conditions with ample feed and water. There wasn’t much else to see so we continued on to the edge of the city. Here Omar told me to keep my window up since it was more likely to encounter al Shabaab outside the city and since I was ‘white’ they could spot me quickly. He expressed that he didn’t want to be attacked because they saw me! How encouraging…
Khat bundling
Transporting feed
Spacious camel farm
Very little shade
Camel milk is the main product for this farm and Omar picked some up to enjoy later
Even the babies enjoy it
A face only a camel could love
Proper buildings and structures at this point were replaced by rudimentary wood frames covered in corrugated aluminum. When we pulled off the road we drove directly into the heart of an IDP camp managed by UK Aid. Millions of Somalis are living in these inhumane conditions after their farmland in southern and central Somalia was deemed too dangerous to live. (or they could no longer sustain a living wage following the famine) It was comprised of mostly women and children (and older men) since the husbands of these families either have died in the war, fled to Yemen or are now fighting for the enemy. Many more were displaced to Kenya, but now Kenya wishes to end its charity program and repatriate the Somalis back to their native land. It wouldn’t be fair to try and describe how these individuals live and today they were especially somber since food distribution doesn’t occur on Fridays. They either go hungry, save something from the week before or spend what little they have to provide their own food. My visit quickly drew a lot of attention and I was surrounded by some desperate looks. Omar suggested I give $5 in exchange for them welcoming me in however I had zero bills under $100. Thankfully Omar stepped in and sent the money digitally from his phone to one of the elders. If there was ever a time I wish I had food or other life necessities to offer, this would be it.
Entering the IDP camp along Jidka Afgooye just before exiting Banadir District
Individual home
Inside
Faces of war and famine
I got lots of looks, mostly curious
No shortage of smiles though
Unicef and UK Aid sponsored latrines
Unicef schoolhouse
The look of destitution
The elder who facilitated my donation and gratefully accepted me
N.B.: Since visiting, 23 camps near KM13 were forcibly evicted (it’s unclear if they were given a month notice as the government claims) when state security and bulldozers leveled their makeshift homes with no notice. I’m unsure if the camp I visited was subjected to this action, but its location seems to match the descriptions in the news.
As we were leaving the guards somehow asked if I would buy them some khat in return for their services. I had planned to tip, but used this offer as a barter chip for their photo. In the past, visitors have heavily publicized their intimidating image (Guns) and they now avoid being photographed since it doesn’t show Somalia in a great light. The original offer of $20 (two bundles of khat) earned me photos with two of them but they countered with all four for $40 so they each could enjoy their khat. About what I expected to tip them in the end anyway, so other than supporting their habit I didn’t really mind.
Khat
My new favorite fuel brand
The last attraction in the city was Beerta Nabadda, Mogadishu Peace Park. Two years ago a local business man purchased this small space to build a refuge from the hassles and dangers of the city. For $1, locals can enter the green space to enjoy tea, a playground and the general tranquility of the space. Our guards stayed outside because of their guns and it would have cost for them to enter. Everyone was all smiles as they enjoyed their Friday afternoon. We had some tea while everyone around was snapping selfies and getting photos of their friends. While we discussed my trip, Omar pointed out he has had a few return visitors and offers a free goat to anyone who returns. I honestly never knew if he was serious, maybe I’ll have to take him up on that.
The rules
Welcome to Beerta Nabadda
Quickly noticing everyone was happy to show their smiles
Lots of green
Omar was excited for me to take his photo, but wasn’t much of a smiler
While we enjoyed some tea, Omar had his shoes shined
Barbed wire or not, everyone was having a great time
Swinging
Spinning
Speeding
Huge grins
Everyone was very well dressed
Suspenders
Sun’s out, Tongues out
I began to wander around snapping photos and trying to engage as best I could but I would quickly attract a large crowd (wanting a photo with me) and Mohamed would pull me away. I explained I had experienced much worse in Bangladesh and Nepal and it didn’t bother me, yet he persisted. Each time I would try and take a candid or portrait photo he would interject by saying this photo is very inconvenient and I should stop. I grew really frustrated as he stopped me from capturing some great moments. The men in the park out numbered the ladies 4:1 so it was especially challenging to find a woman willing to have her photo taken.
There eventually was a line to have a photo taken of or with me
Cheese
Saaxiibo (Friends)
Finally found a young woman it wasn’t too ‘inconvenient’ to take a photo of
Couple
Selfies in Somalia
Climbing aboard the truck one last time
As the sun began to set we climbed in the truck one last time to head to the hotel. Inside the compound the guards stood (not very willingly) for their photos and I went inside to relax before dinner. I was sitting in the lobby of the hotel catching up on the internet and Mohamed again tried to send me to my room. I also told him I wanted to eat dinner outside and he didn’t seem eager to oblige. I won however and remained in the lobby and enjoyed a nice dinner of fish and spaghetti outside amongst the other hotel guests and some frisky cats. Against my better judgement I also ordered a glass of camel milk that was served warm. I’m guessing it was pasteurized since I didn’t get sick.
Not a happy bunch, but glad I never had to rely on their services
He seemed to enjoy his Khat a lot more than having his photo taken
I never really got to interact with them in the back of the truck, so they never warmed up to me
Back to guarding the hotel
Dinner outside
Fish and spaghetti
Warm camel milk
That look!
After dinner we settled the bill and made an exchange for some Somali Shilling I had wanted to take home as a souvenir. The diaspora send mostly US Dollars so that has become a de facto currency when cash is even used. Digital currency is king as Somalia looks to become the first cashless economy. The only note (no coins) is a 1000 and is worth less than $.04 on the black market. For the $5 I changed, I got 115,000 shillings. The actual exchange rate should have gotten me ~3000. After two interesting days exploring Mogadishu I packed up and headed off to bed eager to get to Djibouti and find a hot shower.
115,000 Somali Shilling = $5
Really yummy goat liver
I had asked to see the Belarusian cargo plane that was shot down in 2007, but was instead taken to a dump just south of the airport. It was literally the Mogadishu dump, but no Ilyushin was found. I chalked that up to a waste of time as we headed back to the city and past the Turkish military base. En route we spotted the current, yet dilapidated, National Assembly building and a structure commemorating the independence of The Dervish State until the British and Italians took control in 1920.
The road to the dump
Sadly no Ilyushin in sight, just a smelly burning mess polluting the ocean
No shortage of burned out car bodies though
Turkish Military base
The Turkish Government pledged to rebuild the current National Assembly that was destroyed in the Civil War
The statue with leader Sayyid Mohammed Abdullah Hassan atop his horse was removed during the war
It felt like we were in some distant alleyway when we drove up to a pile of APC on the corner. I explored them until my presence attracted a bit of an audience and I was ushered back in the truck. The next stop was a tank I assumed was US (or another UN supporter) but now have discovered otherwise. The tanks I saw appear to be M47 Patton Tanks which the US stopped using in the 1960s. Pakistan used armored vehicles during the weeks following the Battle of Mogadishu, but they only used M48 which look nothing like what I saw. A few streets over was another tank and a bit farther was a pile of a few more former pieces of worthless metal. Based on a bit of amateur research it seems these tanks were all Somali and used during the Ogaden War with Ethopia and later abandoned in the streets of Mogadishu.
Mogadishu suburbia
Mogadishu travel agency
Stack of Malaysian Condor APC
Four were lost during the rescue missions following the Blackhawk Down incident
Goat walking by the overturned APC
Home
M47 Patton
Unfamiliar with the emblems/flags formally painted on the side
7537163 – 1410 US (Formally US tank?)
Not just tanks are abandoned
Part of a local shop’s décor
As we drove through the city we passed a variety of checkpoints and most hardly paid us any attention, but one in particular stopped us and inspected my passport. He didn’t seem satisfied so called upon his boss who in turn brought over the big boss. It only took about five minutes but was by far the longest we ever sat still in the vehicle.
We cruised (as best one can) through the back streets of Mogadishu passing a Turkish hospital that took in many of the injured in the recent bombing. Also spotted some IDP camps and lots of khat vendors. The stimulant (plant drug) is important in mass from Kenya and not technically considered haram even though it can have an effect similar to THC. The streets in this part of town were is a state of disrepair but I was told they were next on the list for repair.
Khat depot outside an IDP camp in the heart of the city
This guy is more worldly than Mickey Mouse
”Where the Sidewalk Ends”
But no street begins
Bridge!
Back at the hotel we paused for lunch where I enjoyed really good goat, rice and some mango juice. While waiting I had a good conversation with a member of the Somali diaspora who had returned for the second time since he left the country in 1988. He does lots of business across the region and lives in the UK. After parting ways (the ever so insightful) Mohamed told me he was Somali and living in the UK. Thanks! The engagements I made in the hotel were the best since most everyone staying there spoke fluent English. I was welcomed by current and former MPs and others in town for work and family. Apparently some of the VIP of the country actually live in the hotel as it is safer and cheaper than living outside in the city.
Another fantastic meal
During lunch I taught Mohamed about the concept of online dating but he was devastated when his Chinese mobile wasn’t capable of installing Tinder. After lunch and Jumah (Friday prayer) we hit the road to the south of town.
The first stop was a camel camp where the camels are used to produce milk. Compared to the camels in the Sudanese market I visited these lucky ladies were in great conditions with ample feed and water. There wasn’t much else to see so we continued on to the edge of the city. Here Omar told me to keep my window up since it was more likely to encounter al Shabaab outside the city and since I was ‘white’ they could spot me quickly. He expressed that he didn’t want to be attacked because they saw me! How encouraging…
Khat bundling
Transporting feed
Spacious camel farm
Very little shade
Camel milk is the main product for this farm and Omar picked some up to enjoy later
Even the babies enjoy it
A face only a camel could love
Proper buildings and structures at this point were replaced by rudimentary wood frames covered in corrugated aluminum. When we pulled off the road we drove directly into the heart of an IDP camp managed by UK Aid. Millions of Somalis are living in these inhumane conditions after their farmland in southern and central Somalia was deemed too dangerous to live. (or they could no longer sustain a living wage following the famine) It was comprised of mostly women and children (and older men) since the husbands of these families either have died in the war, fled to Yemen or are now fighting for the enemy. Many more were displaced to Kenya, but now Kenya wishes to end its charity program and repatriate the Somalis back to their native land. It wouldn’t be fair to try and describe how these individuals live and today they were especially somber since food distribution doesn’t occur on Fridays. They either go hungry, save something from the week before or spend what little they have to provide their own food. My visit quickly drew a lot of attention and I was surrounded by some desperate looks. Omar suggested I give $5 in exchange for them welcoming me in however I had zero bills under $100. Thankfully Omar stepped in and sent the money digitally from his phone to one of the elders. If there was ever a time I wish I had food or other life necessities to offer, this would be it.
Entering the IDP camp along Jidka Afgooye just before exiting Banadir District
Individual home
Inside
Faces of war and famine
I got lots of looks, mostly curious
No shortage of smiles though
Unicef and UK Aid sponsored latrines
Unicef schoolhouse
The look of destitution
The elder who facilitated my donation and gratefully accepted me
N.B.: Since visiting, 23 camps near KM13 were forcibly evicted (it’s unclear if they were given a month notice as the government claims) when state security and bulldozers leveled their makeshift homes with no notice. I’m unsure if the camp I visited was subjected to this action, but its location seems to match the descriptions in the news.
As we were leaving the guards somehow asked if I would buy them some khat in return for their services. I had planned to tip, but used this offer as a barter chip for their photo. In the past, visitors have heavily publicized their intimidating image (Guns) and they now avoid being photographed since it doesn’t show Somalia in a great light. The original offer of $20 (two bundles of khat) earned me photos with two of them but they countered with all four for $40 so they each could enjoy their khat. About what I expected to tip them in the end anyway, so other than supporting their habit I didn’t really mind.
Khat
My new favorite fuel brand
The last attraction in the city was Beerta Nabadda, Mogadishu Peace Park. Two years ago a local business man purchased this small space to build a refuge from the hassles and dangers of the city. For $1, locals can enter the green space to enjoy tea, a playground and the general tranquility of the space. Our guards stayed outside because of their guns and it would have cost for them to enter. Everyone was all smiles as they enjoyed their Friday afternoon. We had some tea while everyone around was snapping selfies and getting photos of their friends. While we discussed my trip, Omar pointed out he has had a few return visitors and offers a free goat to anyone who returns. I honestly never knew if he was serious, maybe I’ll have to take him up on that.
The rules
Welcome to Beerta Nabadda
Quickly noticing everyone was happy to show their smiles
Lots of green
Omar was excited for me to take his photo, but wasn’t much of a smiler
While we enjoyed some tea, Omar had his shoes shined
Barbed wire or not, everyone was having a great time
Swinging
Spinning
Speeding
Huge grins
Everyone was very well dressed
Suspenders
Sun’s out, Tongues out
I began to wander around snapping photos and trying to engage as best I could but I would quickly attract a large crowd (wanting a photo with me) and Mohamed would pull me away. I explained I had experienced much worse in Bangladesh and Nepal and it didn’t bother me, yet he persisted. Each time I would try and take a candid or portrait photo he would interject by saying this photo is very inconvenient and I should stop. I grew really frustrated as he stopped me from capturing some great moments. The men in the park out numbered the ladies 4:1 so it was especially challenging to find a woman willing to have her photo taken.
There eventually was a line to have a photo taken of or with me
Cheese
Saaxiibo (Friends)
Finally found a young woman it wasn’t too ‘inconvenient’ to take a photo of
Couple
Selfies in Somalia
Climbing aboard the truck one last time
As the sun began to set we climbed in the truck one last time to head to the hotel. Inside the compound the guards stood (not very willingly) for their photos and I went inside to relax before dinner. I was sitting in the lobby of the hotel catching up on the internet and Mohamed again tried to send me to my room. I also told him I wanted to eat dinner outside and he didn’t seem eager to oblige. I won however and remained in the lobby and enjoyed a nice dinner of fish and spaghetti outside amongst the other hotel guests and some frisky cats. Against my better judgement I also ordered a glass of camel milk that was served warm. I’m guessing it was pasteurized since I didn’t get sick.
Not a happy bunch, but glad I never had to rely on their services
He seemed to enjoy his Khat a lot more than having his photo taken
I never really got to interact with them in the back of the truck, so they never warmed up to me
Back to guarding the hotel
Dinner outside
Fish and spaghetti
Warm camel milk
That look!
After dinner we settled the bill and made an exchange for some Somali Shilling I had wanted to take home as a souvenir. The diaspora send mostly US Dollars so that has become a de facto currency when cash is even used. Digital currency is king as Somalia looks to become the first cashless economy. The only note (no coins) is a 1000 and is worth less than $.04 on the black market. For the $5 I changed, I got 115,000 shillings. The actual exchange rate should have gotten me ~3000. After two interesting days exploring Mogadishu I packed up and headed off to bed eager to get to Djibouti and find a hot shower.
115,000 Somali Shilling = $5
Mar 20, 2018, 12:31 am
#42
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Dubai
Posts: 3,301
You'll definitely have to head back to claim your free goat!
I guess Mohamed was just concerned about your safety and bringing you back in one piece.
I think the APC's are Malaysian Condor's:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle...convoy_arrives
Condor Armored Personnel Carrier | Military-Today.com
!I guess Mohamed was just concerned about your safety and bringing you back in one piece.
I think the APC's are Malaysian Condor's:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle...convoy_arrives
Condor Armored Personnel Carrier | Military-Today.com
Mar 20, 2018, 12:22 pm
#43
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
MGQ>JIB
Azhan (call to prayer) woke me up bright and early and eventually I forced myself out of bed for breakfast. They called the dish ‘small meat’ but it was fantastic. At 7:00 for a 9:00 flight myself and another passenger departed for the airport. Keep in mind it was less than a km away!
Small meat
Security was a fun but necessary process, so follow along. Checkpoint one: a few guards confirmed we had flights and let us pass. Checkpoint two: five cars at a time queue up between two large blast walls and all passengers exit car while dogs sniff for bombs. Checkpoint three: show passport to enter airport property. Checkpoint four: at the edge of the building all bags are placed in a line for the dogs to sniff. Checkpoint five: passport and confirmed ticket checked to enter terminal. Checkpoint six: typical X-ray and metal detector check. Time to check in and clear customs, where I had a ‘helpful’ friend guiding me every step of the way until immigration. Checkpoint seven: a second typical X-ray and metal detector setup. Here I was told I could not carry on my souvenir Starbucks mug from Kuwait as it was deemed a weapon. I argued and finally the Turkish Airlines security chief relented. Another man had his soccer ball refused for some reason. At this point I would say I was airside where there was a CIP lounge, coffee shop and a duty free store. The duty free was selling old 50 Shilling notes (worth less than two tenths of a penny) for $5. Or an old tattered postcard for $5 as well. Checkpoint eight: Names were matched to the manifest. Checkpoint nine: to enter the specific gate all materials were swabbed for explosives, electronics turned on and everyone patted down. Not much else to say for the pen but eventually they loaded the buses and delivered us to the plane. Checkpoint ten: just outside the plane all bags were placed in a line for the final dog sniff test before boarding.
Inside the terminal with the CIP, Duty Free shop and a café
Inside the final holding pen
The majority of international flights operate to Djibouti or Kenya
Surprisingly a busy morning at MGQ
Just incase a bad guy gets past the first nine checkpoints, man’s best friend is expected to save the day just outside the plane
Once boarding was complete a former MP and his entire entourage entered the plane and we took off about an hour late. The flight attendants recognized me from two days earlier. I was seated next to a former MP and he shared lots of great stories about the recent development and aid underway in Somalia. A small bread was served and I just relaxed the rest of the flight. All things considered, the checkin and security was well orchestrated and absolutely necessary following the Dolla attack in 2016. I’ve certainly flown from much worse airports (comfort and safety).
All aboard
V1
Circling around Mogadishu before heading north to Djibouti
Quick snack
N.b.: later that evening I discovered an attack had been made on a popular hotel just a few hours after my departure near the former parliament building and unknown soldiers memorial. Al Shabaab took responsibility because the President was to host a security meeting at the hotel the next morning. It was the third attack this month and just two weeks after the country’s largest attack in its history.
When we landed just a few of us deplaned and I figured the rest of my trip would be smooth sailing. Boy was I wrong. Immigration asked me to go to the visa collection booth and there they asked why I had a camera. I explained I was a tourist hoping to take photos of my trip. They said they would not allow me to enter. I was more confused than anything and eventually they agreed to let me in if they held my camera for me. I was starting to realize how annoying this would be and pleaded my case as best as possible. They asked where I came from: Somalia. They asked where I’m going next: Saudi Arabia. And for whatever reason he relented and said I could keep my camera but should not take any bad photos. It really rubbed me the wrong way more than anything and I found a taxi for 2000 Franc to my hotel. Hotel options are sparse in Djibouti so rather than pay $250 a night for the Sheraton I opted for the Lagon Bleu at $75 a night. I was given a suite due to occupancy and took in a bit of ac.
Somalian VIP (MPs) were greeted planeside
A brief walk from the plane to Djibouti International. I was the first to enter the immigration hall and last to leave
Residence Le Lagon Bleu
Living room
Bedroom
Small meat
Security was a fun but necessary process, so follow along. Checkpoint one: a few guards confirmed we had flights and let us pass. Checkpoint two: five cars at a time queue up between two large blast walls and all passengers exit car while dogs sniff for bombs. Checkpoint three: show passport to enter airport property. Checkpoint four: at the edge of the building all bags are placed in a line for the dogs to sniff. Checkpoint five: passport and confirmed ticket checked to enter terminal. Checkpoint six: typical X-ray and metal detector check. Time to check in and clear customs, where I had a ‘helpful’ friend guiding me every step of the way until immigration. Checkpoint seven: a second typical X-ray and metal detector setup. Here I was told I could not carry on my souvenir Starbucks mug from Kuwait as it was deemed a weapon. I argued and finally the Turkish Airlines security chief relented. Another man had his soccer ball refused for some reason. At this point I would say I was airside where there was a CIP lounge, coffee shop and a duty free store. The duty free was selling old 50 Shilling notes (worth less than two tenths of a penny) for $5. Or an old tattered postcard for $5 as well. Checkpoint eight: Names were matched to the manifest. Checkpoint nine: to enter the specific gate all materials were swabbed for explosives, electronics turned on and everyone patted down. Not much else to say for the pen but eventually they loaded the buses and delivered us to the plane. Checkpoint ten: just outside the plane all bags were placed in a line for the final dog sniff test before boarding.
Inside the terminal with the CIP, Duty Free shop and a café
Inside the final holding pen
The majority of international flights operate to Djibouti or Kenya
Surprisingly a busy morning at MGQ
Just incase a bad guy gets past the first nine checkpoints, man’s best friend is expected to save the day just outside the plane
Once boarding was complete a former MP and his entire entourage entered the plane and we took off about an hour late. The flight attendants recognized me from two days earlier. I was seated next to a former MP and he shared lots of great stories about the recent development and aid underway in Somalia. A small bread was served and I just relaxed the rest of the flight. All things considered, the checkin and security was well orchestrated and absolutely necessary following the Dolla attack in 2016. I’ve certainly flown from much worse airports (comfort and safety).
All aboard
V1
Circling around Mogadishu before heading north to Djibouti
Quick snack
N.b.: later that evening I discovered an attack had been made on a popular hotel just a few hours after my departure near the former parliament building and unknown soldiers memorial. Al Shabaab took responsibility because the President was to host a security meeting at the hotel the next morning. It was the third attack this month and just two weeks after the country’s largest attack in its history.
When we landed just a few of us deplaned and I figured the rest of my trip would be smooth sailing. Boy was I wrong. Immigration asked me to go to the visa collection booth and there they asked why I had a camera. I explained I was a tourist hoping to take photos of my trip. They said they would not allow me to enter. I was more confused than anything and eventually they agreed to let me in if they held my camera for me. I was starting to realize how annoying this would be and pleaded my case as best as possible. They asked where I came from: Somalia. They asked where I’m going next: Saudi Arabia. And for whatever reason he relented and said I could keep my camera but should not take any bad photos. It really rubbed me the wrong way more than anything and I found a taxi for 2000 Franc to my hotel. Hotel options are sparse in Djibouti so rather than pay $250 a night for the Sheraton I opted for the Lagon Bleu at $75 a night. I was given a suite due to occupancy and took in a bit of ac.
Somalian VIP (MPs) were greeted planeside
A brief walk from the plane to Djibouti International. I was the first to enter the immigration hall and last to leave
Residence Le Lagon Bleu
Living room
Bedroom
Mar 20, 2018, 12:48 pm
#44
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
@rivlinm, agreed. I would love to visit. Hopefully in less than 20 years that'll be possible without serious risk of death/kidnapping.
Looking forward to the rest of your report! Somalia is one of those countries that, at least for me anyways, is intriguing just for the very fact that so few people travel to. Hope in the coming decade things can stabilize a bit, would love to travel there if the security risks were minimized.
Somalia and Saudi were as I expected. Djibouti, NOT at all...
Thanks! I have been awful at updating lately, but I'm on a roll right now! Stay tuned.
Great report and outstanding photography! While the Mog certainly has a historical reputation for war (both factual and media driven) - the smiling locals was a great thing to see! Not a place I would venture to, but I certainly appreciate the TR you put together.
Now, about that Turtle Oil......
Now, about that Turtle Oil......
You'll definitely have to head back to claim your free goat!
I guess Mohamed was just concerned about your safety and bringing you back in one piece.
I think the APC's are Malaysian Condor's:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle...convoy_arrives
Condor Armored Personnel Carrier Military-Today.com
!I guess Mohamed was just concerned about your safety and bringing you back in one piece.
I think the APC's are Malaysian Condor's:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle...convoy_arrives
Condor Armored Personnel Carrier Military-Today.com
Maybe I can time it with eid al adha...
I suppose I can't blame Mohamed for being overly protective, but I think it was more about him teaching me how to travel for the first time. He felt like a chaperone on your first trip abroad at age 13. Clearly people going to Somalia have done the research and travel to understand the risks and formalities of third world travel Yet, he admitted he had never left the country and was very out of touch with my needs as a traveler. Omar has been to Turkey, Kenya, Qatar (and maybe a few other places) and understood my objectives much better and treated me accordingly.
