First time to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (and other parts of the Al-Jazeera region)
 

After completing few mileage runs few days earlier (and making United Gold), I was scheduled to visit few customers in the ME region.
Originally I was scheduled to just visit customer in Riyadh, but after few days they scheduled me for a meeting in Doha. I took the opportunity to visit Dubai for the first time, only for plane spotting.
My routes were as follow:

IAD-FRA United B777-200
FRA-RUH Lufthansa A330-300
RUH-MCT Oman Air B737-900
MCT-DOH Oman Air B737-800
DOH-MCT Oman Air B737-900
MCT-DXB Oman Air B737-900
DXB-BAH Gulf Air A321-200
BAH-RUH Gulf Air A330-200
RUH-FRA Lufthansa A330-300
FRA-ZRH Lufthansa A320-200
ZRH-IAD United B767-300

My buddy picked me up from my place way before my departure time out of Dulles. Around 2pm there were no lines at TSA Pre Check stations so I was airside in no time. Hungry and thirsty I headed to Chef Geoff's restaurant. I've eaten there before, and I like the food they serve. At the restaurant I had double Jameson with Coke and chicken sandwich.

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Later I've decided to check if my Star Gold status will reflect on the lounge access. After scan of my boarding pass I was invited to the lounge. The lounge itself was still half empty. Typical snack selection and free house booze. I had few glasses of red wine and lengthy conversation with another avid traveler.
Boarding started on time and soon I was walking to my seat.

December 6 2017
UA989
IAD - FRA
United Airlines
Boeing 777-200
N792UA
26C E+
Actual flight time: 6:54hrs
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I was very happy to discover that I don't have any seatmates. It's rarely happens on United flights lately. So I had 3 seats to myself.

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Shortly after take off, drink service started, following meal service. I had chicken with something. It was uneatable.
Absolutely nasty.

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I've picked the chicken and left the rest. Had one more cup of red wine and went to sleep on my tripple seats. I slept for almost 4 hours.
Probably the longest sleep ever in economy seat for me.
Before the landing breakfast service occurred with some pastry and yogurt.
We've landed few minutes before the schedule. I had to take 25 minutes trek from concourse A to concourse B in Terminal 1. Since I was not entering EU I didn't have to go through passport control, just security check point.

Found the Lufthansa lounge (*G) and entered it without any problems. I didn't know if they will require actual plastic card from me.
Got nice spot close to the buffet and enjoyed real food for a change. I had 5 hours to kill so I've decided to take the shower and change some clothes. That didn't kill much time. Later I was looking at my reservation online and I saw that I can upgrade to Premium Economy on my next leg to Riyadh for $225. Why not. I haven't flown in LH PE before so it will be my first time.
I did that at the front desk in the lounge. After that I had only 3 more hours to kill :)
To kill boredom I had few glasses of Scotch, some more food and few more glasses of Scotch :)
I left the lounge 1 hour before departure time and wondered around the concourse.


December 7 2017
LH636
FRA - RUH
Lufthansa
Airbus A330-300
D-AIKM
26A Premium Economy
Actual flight time: 5:09hrs
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Boarding for my Riyadh flight started on time. It was done from the bus gate. Passport and visa checks and we were allowed to the bus.
Our aircraft was parked at the remote stand, close to runway 18.

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The seats in LH Premium Economy are much nicer than in United's E+. Each seat also had amenity kit and bottle of water. My seat was located in mini cabin, in the last row of PE.

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Everybody in my section of PE had two seats to themselves. The overall load on this flight was about 100 passengers.

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After the take off drink service followed hot towel service. I think I had enough alcohol in the past several hours that for the rest of the flight I was just drinking water :) I didn't want to land at KSA for the first time drunk :)

The meal on this flight was chicken or pasta. I've opted for chicken.

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After the meal I've watched few shows on my ipad and completely exhausted I've passed out. I woke up about one hour before the landing.
It was also time to serve second meal. I'm not completely positive, but it was tuna salad sandwich.

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Right before the landing, the purser informed passengers about strict rules of no alcohol/porn in the KSA.
When we got to the gate only about half of the people got up and proceeded to exit the aircraft. Rest of them were continuing to Dammam.

When you arrive at Riyadh airport, you have 3 choices, First Time arrivals lane, Returning visitors lane and Diplomatic/Business lane.
Since this was my first time to the KSA I've picked the First Time arrival lane. Had my pictures and fingerprints taken. It took about 10 minutes. Then I was welcomed to the Kingdom. Baggage claim is located right after you pass passport control. My bag was one of the first one out (priority tag working?). After collecting my bag I queued in another line to scan my bag and my backpack.

Not having any contraband I was once again welcomed to the Kingdom. In the arrivals hall I started searching for money exchange place.
I couldn't find any so I've asked store employee where I can exchange money to Saudi Riyals. I was directed to the bank where I stood in lane for quite some time.
With local money in my pocket I went outside to catch the taxi (picking up Uber at RUH airport is illegal, despite Saudi government investing millions of $$$ in Uber and Careem service in KSA). As typical at any airport, there was a lot of solicitation from "unauthorized" taxi drivers. I was told by my coworker to go to the white taxi lane and take the car from there.
And that's what I did. My driver did not speak word of English and didn't know where my hotel was. Finally he pulled over and handed me his phone to put the hotel's address in google maps. After driving around in the heavy traffic for 1.5 hours, we finally arrived at my hotel. The driver told me the cost for the trip is 150 SAR (about $40). Of course that was a rip off, since the trip shouldn't cost more than 95 SAR ($25). I was tired and didn't want to argue with the driver in a place where I haven't been before.

Looking forward to more on this seldom visited country.

I'm cautiously optimistic that the recent rumors of tourist visas in 2018 will come true.

Really looking forward to the rest of the trip report! Many thanks for posting.

Did they explicitly mention "no porn" on the flight? LOL! I'm cracking up just imaging it!

The museums here are open on Friday/Saturday 4pm to 8pm. Weekdays 8am to 12 noon. Why??? I'm trying to go to the Falcon Aviation museum today but I have to wait until the evening. I have two more days to kill in this town and can't do anything until the evening. If they want tourists, they have to change thinking. I have never started trip report while still in the country :) This is first for me.
If you ask me why don't I go out now and wonder around the streets? Streets are not designed for pedestrian traffic. You have to play frogger to cross the street! And in the shopping mall connected to SPG hotel, we wanted to have coffee, the waiter wanted $30 from us so we could just order 2 cups of coffee! That's insane. I'll post about it in my TR :)


Thanks for checking in, I'll post more today and tomorrow :)

Yes, the purser said "No alcohol and no pornographic materials of any kind" on PA system :)

I've checked in to my room at the four star Executives Hotel. The only 4* in that hotel is the rating. Everything else is sub par. When I got to my king bed room I saw that I have two tiny beds. I went back downstairs to the lobby asking if I can get room with bigger bed. Unfortunately all other rooms were taken. They said to check with them in couple of days...
The room on the pictures doesn't look that bad, however it was worn out and outdated. The only plug that I could use was behind the table after I removed the lamp from the outlet. The lamps beside the bed had different plug and I couldn't use them. No unused power outlets were present anywhere in the room.
So there you have it, Executives suites for you. The hotel was selected because it was located only few minutes away walking distance from the office.

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Went back to my room and decided to order room service. I was hungry. Decided to order chicken tikka masala. When you order it you have to specify that you want rice on the side too. Otherwise they just bring the dish without any side dishes.

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After having $30 worth of tikka masala I took shower and went to bed.

I woke up early next morning. Went outside and turned back. Had to go to my room to get my winter coat. It was very cold.
I've walked along the street for a while looking for some coffee shop, but as it was Friday morning everything was closed (and no coffee shop anywhere near by).

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Since everything was closed I went to the hotel's restaurant to have breakfast. The best part of the breakfast was coffee and orange juice. Beef beacon? WTH? Slices of fat beef mixed with parsley. It was bad. I'll eat almost anything. I really enjoy my food, but this was bad. Breakfast each morning was pretty much the same. Some days they would put chicken nuggets for breakfast :)
Overall the breakfast was bad. Last few days of my stay, I would just have coffee and OJ.
I don't know what kind of cold cuts they had, but they were in 3 shades of pink - and all of them tasted the same.

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In the evening my customer called that they are in the office and ready for the meeting. I met with them and one guy invited me for dinner. He picked sushi place. I know, you may think that raw fish in the middle of the sandbox is not the best choice, but the food was amazing. Probably second best sushi I had in my life (Bangkok little Japan has the best sushi - besides Japan).
When we got to the restaurant it was still closed. It was prayer time. Here in KSA they pray 6 times a day, and during that time all stores and restaurants are closed. After 15 minute wait outside we were trying to get in. However, the singles door were closed and only family door were open. We didn't want to wait anymore in the cold so we walked via family door. We've got some looks from the people.
That's another first for me. Most places have two separate doors. One for singles or gentlemen and second set for families.
Inside, the restaurants are segregated. One side is for singles and another side behind some temporary walls is for families and ladies.

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We also got some other rolls which I didn't photograph. But the food was really nice. So far the best meal that I had during this trip to KSA.

My customer dropped me off at my hotel, and at the same time my coworker arrived. At least I had some company for couple of days :)

Next day was also day off. Went downstairs for the coffee and OJ and met with the coworker. We've decided to go to the Kingdom tower to have some nice coffee and do some work. The google was showing 5 minutes walking distance, however after playing the frogger it took us almost 30 minutes to get there.

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On the ground level there is a shopping mall. Since it was prayer time most of the shops were closed. They even have Victoria's Secret store :) We've walked to the Four Season's coffee place and found comfortable place to do some work and to enjoy coffee.
The waiter came and asked if we are guests of the hotel. We said no, we just want some coffee and pastries.
Then he informed us that it will be $30 mandatory fee for customers not staying in the hotel. WTH???
To hell with you. I need to pay $30 to have ability to order coffee and food from your restaurant? No, thank you!
And that's how we end up in a coffee shop in the mall.
The place was called Fauchon Paris. It looked cozy so we've asked for a table. But - we were escorted to the remote area of the coffee place for singles. Basically we had a table in the hallway.

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The coffee and the chocolates were very nice. I had few of each and after couple of hours we went to see what's in the stores.

I wanted to buy some cosmetics for my girlfriend, but was told that no lady in any of the ladies store will talk to me. So there goes my plan to buy something for my GF in Saudi.
Instead of cosmetics I went to the small grocery store to buy some snacks. I was very amused when I saw Polish candy called in exact translation "Naked mountain girls" :)

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Then playing the frogger for 20 more minutes and we were back in our hotel. It was still early but absolutely nothing to do.
I just retired to bed and watched few soccer games before dinner time.

View from my room. (If anyone is in market for two used sun dried toilets, let me know, I can hook you up) :)

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For dinner we've decided to walk to nearby Indian restaurant. They had only one set of main door, but singles had to go to the right and families to the left.

Ordered some food and of course nothing came with side dish. Had to order rice and butter nan on the side. At least waiters should have warn you when you order the food, that the dishes are without sides.

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The food was not bad. I've enjoyed it. And after the dinner we called it a night.

Sunday was the first full working day. After more meetings in the morning we had to go across the town to meet with customer at their HQ.
What I really liked about the HQ is that they have coffee shops for employees on every single floor, with 3 "Tea boys" working. It's basically all you can drink tea, coffee, water, soda :) I guess they don't want employees to waste time going to get coffee, they have Tea boys in each office walking around employees, taking orders and bringing coffee to the desk. I loved it :)
The Tea boys were not only in the HQ, but in every single office that I have visited in KSA and Qatar.
You can get any coffee you'd think of. Espresso, Turkish, late, you name it, they'll make it :)
I have to say that I got addicted little to the Turkish shots :)

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After the meetings with customer we went back to the hotel and worked for the rest of the day from the lobby.

View from the taxi

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Kingdom tower

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After the last prayer we took taxi and went to Sulaimaniya street. It's a very long street with restaurants on both sides of the road. I'm talking about few miles long. It's hard to select restaurant, because all look good.
We've picked Syrian restaurant and had food on the floor :) Basically chicken and rice.

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The food was very good. I was the only person there eating my meal with the spoon. Everybody else ate with hands.

After returning to the hotel I was stopped in the lobby and informed that they have a suite for me. I went to my room, quickly packed my stuff and went to my new room.
This time I had king bed. The room looked exactly the same, no power outlets anywhere, but it smelled soooo bad from the cigarette smoke.
You can't have it all. I've told my coworker that I have new room but it smells bad. Later in the evening, when I went back to my room I've noticed that they have sprayed some scent. My room didn't smell bad anymore. I guess my coworker told the front desk about it :)
The shower head in bathroom had only 4 streams. Just random directions. Also, the hot water lasted for the first 3 minutes of the shower.
I didn't have any view from both of my windows, because my corner room was 6 feet away from two buildings.
I'm staying there only 2 more days, I'll take shorter showers and I don't need to look through the window :)

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Next evening we went back to Sulaimaniya street, this time we've picked Lebanese restaurant. They had only 3 items on the menu.
Fried chicken, grilled chicken and rotisserie chicken. I've picked the grilled one and it was good choice. Really enjoyed the food with some fries and garlic mayo :)

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After finishing the food, my coworker twisted my arm and we went to the place serving kanafeh. It's a cheese with sugar with pistachio nuts. I had it few times during my extended stay in Jordan. I can eat it once a while, but it's too sweet for my taste.

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After returning to hotel I've got phone call from my boss asking me if I can fly to Doha tomorrow and on the way back I can spend few days in Dubai (as a reward).
Of course I can. As you know, there are no direct flights from KSA, Bahrain and UAE to Qatar. I had to search for flights that would fit my schedule. The meeting supposed to be Wednesday morning. I have silver status with Oman Air (after one RT from MXP to BKK earlier this year) I've decided to book with them. One way ticket prices were ridiculous. I guess they are monetizing after the flight ban from neighboring countries. The only options I had were flights via Muscat, Kuwait, Amman, Cairo. Booked one way flight with Oman RUH-MCT-DOH, departing Riyadh 9pm and arriving at Doha 2:30am. This would give me some time to go to my coworker's hotel, work on the plan for the meeting, change and go to the customer.

After work I got Uber and I was at RUH airport around 7pm. As silver Sindbad I can use business class check in desk. However, economy class and business class desks were full of people traveling back home for holidays. While waiting in line I started upgrading both of my legs to business class on my phone. Unfortunately only second leg MCT-DOH got instant upgrade. I've asked again about the upgrade when it was my turn but the agent said that they are full up front, but he can put me in emergency exit row and block two seats next to me. Why not.

Next step was passport control and security check. From the time I arrived at the airport to the time I was airside, took probably 30 minutes. I went straight to the only lounge in Terminal 1 at RUH. As a silver I have lounge access :)

There was a lot of free space in the lounge. I didn't have lunch so I had some chicken, with mushroom sauce and rice.

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December 12 2017
WY682
RUH - MCT
Oman Air
Boeing 737-900
A4O-BZ
22A Exit row
Actual flight time: 1:38hr
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After spending some time in the lounge I went downstairs to the gate. Boarding started few minutes past the actual time and soon after I was on my way to seat 22A.

This aircraft has newer business class seats.

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Exit row seats have a lot of leg room. I couldn't complain.

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I never order special meals for my flights, but this time at the booking I've ordered seafood meal. The funny thing is, that the meal selection on this flight was chicken or fish :) So I've got my fish.
My meal consisted of fish, rice, green beans, some salad and chocolate cake.

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Our departure was delayed by 1 hour. That's ok, I had almost 2 hours at Muscat to change my plane, and I could use fast track as my next leg was in business class.

When we landed at MCT, there was traditional 15 minutes wait for the bus. Then short ride to the terminal, security check and I'm at the duty free store. I sat down on the bench and I've tried to connect to free wifi. To connect to it you have to send text message via web interface and wait for the access code. For some reason there is no USA on the list where you select country for your phone. I've used Canada as it was showing +1. Then I saw time on my neighbor's phone. My boarding started 5 minutes ago! I forgot that in Oman they have different time. Quick dash to my gate and I was stuck with other people waiting for our delayed flight to DOH.

Very exciting report. I used to fly to Riyadh a lot and your report brings back a lot of nice memories.

Please tell me what did you do for fun. It's Friday 1pm and half a day wasted. I'm waiting for 3:30pm so I can take drive to aviation museum which opens at 4pm.
What else is here to do? I can't fly to Dubai every weekend. I'll be coming here more often but I need some joy after work. I hate shopping so going to the mall is not an option for me :)

December 13 2017
WY667
MCT - DOH
Oman Air
Boeing 737-800
A4O-BE
3F Business Class
Actual flight time: 1:12hr
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Another delayed departure. During the boarding card check before they let you on the bus, I was told that business class bus will leave next. It's ok, I'm tired and want to seat in the plane.

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This plane had old business class product. The seats reminded me of old US Airways business class.

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After everyone boarded we were offered Arabic coffee and dry date. Later OJ or lemonade. The load in business class was 7. So everyone had both seats to themselves, besides some husbend and wife which were seating together.
After take off I was offered food. I couldn't hear FA what he was saying, but I overheard word 'sandwich'. Ok, that's what I'll have.
The food that was served was one sandwich with some meat and one sandwich with tuna salad. Plus fruits and cucumber/tomato salad.

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Before I knew we were landing in Doha. Another first for me - Qatar.

After leaving the plane I met with a guy whom I met on another aviation forum. He was asking me about places in Washington DC. It turned out that I came to Qatar before he came to USA :) He's working at the airport and by luck he was working night shift.
He walked with me to the baggage claim and after all bags were out, my bag was missing.
Nice. I'll be meeting my customer in jeans. We went to the baggage service place and I've submitted my claim. I was told that my bag will arrive in my hotel around 2pm. After a while, my friend had to go back to work. I went to coffee shop and had double espresso shot.
Then I took Uber and went to my coworker's hotel. He was staying at Millennium Hotel, about 20 minutes from the airport.
He arranged with the manager and front desk the night before, that when I show up in the morning they will give me key to his room so I can come up and we can do little work before the meeting. As soon as I appeared in the lobby, the front desk lady called me by my name.
Mr. BWIADCA, welcome to our hotel. Can I see your passport please? Sure. I gave her my passport, she made copies and then she said that it's against hotel's policy to give away keys to rooms to people not staying in the hotel. ...??? Then why did you take my passport and made copies? Manager came and started telling me that because my coworker made the request with him last night, they will let me up, but I have to wait few more minutes. At the same time my coworker texted me asking where I was. I supposed to be in the hotel already. I've told him what's going on and he came downstairs pissed off. He asked manager why last night it wasn't a problem and now they make big deal out of it?
Now I was cleared to go up to his room.

View from his room

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Outside of the hotel looking at some office building

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We've wasted a lot of time downstairs so we started preparing for the meeting. He wanted to make coffee in room, but then he realized that all the coffee bags are for decaf. He called front desk for some coffee. The guy brought fist full of decaf coffee! :) My coworker was pissed :) Few minutes later, the same guy brought two fists full of regular coffee :)

Went to the meeting. I was half asleep, but apparently the meeting went well. Around noon I was taken to my hotel DoubleTree Old Town.
I wanted to check in this early. They've told me that if I'm willing to wait couple of hours they will upgrade me to a nice suite.
Just asked them for any room with bed and shower. I was exhausted. They still gave me nice room on the 10th floor. Asked for wake up call at 2pm which surprised them :) At 2pm? In 2 hours? Yes please :)
I was amazed when I entered my room. Definitely the best DoubleTree hotel that I have ever stayed at. It had living space, bedroom, kitchen and bathroom with showers and nice bathtub. It was very nice. I took quick shower and hit the bed.

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View from the room

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At 2pm I had wake up call, and at the same time my friend told me that unfortunately he can't meet up with me in the afternoon as he got called to work. That's fine. My bag should arrive soon and I can venture on my own.
But before that I hit the bed again and slept until 4pm.
I went downstairs to check if they received my bag. Still nothing. I kept calling baggage office but nobody was answering.
As I was starving I've called room service and ordered seafood appetizer and fish as my main course, with the rum and coke as a side :)

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My food was very good. It hit the spot.
Made few more calls to the airport and finally got someone on the line. They were claiming that they keep calling me but I wasn't answering so my bag is rescheduled to be delivered between 11pm and midnight! I'm leaving from hotel at 1am!
I was pissed. I took Uber and went to the airport (about 10 minutes away). I went to the office and picked up my bag. Took Uber back to the hotel and that's how I wasted most of my time in Doha.
Instead going to the city (as I had 4 more hours) I went to the roof top bar. Before I was let in, unfriendly bouncer was grilling me if I was actually guest in the hotel (???).
I've got two double Jamesons. The damage was $60. That's how I ended December 13th, not Friday, but 13th.

Yeah, that´s the reason they are mostly successful with it. But I had the same problem years ago in Dubai and paid the rip off sum. But I´m still a little angry with myself that I didn´t give him what he earned (nothing).....

Thanks for the effort. You sound like you did not do some proper research before coming to KSA. I can assure you, it's not as bad as you might think it is, but you need time to settle down and get in touch with the locals. Once they open up, they may invite you to their homes - and oh boy, believe me - THAT will be the best dinner you've ever had in KSA. You did the typical rookie mistakes, which probably got you some looks here and there ;)

Your company should have known better than to book you in that hotel, plenty of better hotels in Riyadh.
BTW there is only 5 prayers per day and not 6.
Always look for the London taxi cab outside the airport, they speak English and they know where to go.

It is funny you mention the unfriendly bouncer at roof-top club at Double tree Doha. First I
thought that he did not believe me (by my very casual appearance) that I was staying in the
Diplomatic Suite ! But looks like he is just a nasty guy :-) Is the rooftop restaurant only for
hotel guests ?

Company will pay for it, so not worth fighting. It's not right, but can't do anything about it.


After 2 weeks working with them, nobody is making any effort to do something after work. I understand that they have families, but if we get customers coming to my office in DC, somebody always takes that person out after work, or just to show them the city.
I've noticed that here in KSA people don't smile on the street. The only time somebody says hello is in the elevator.
I can't wait to get in the Uber tomorrow afternoon to the airport. I could have left yesterday, but before I came here they asked me to stay as long as possible. Why? Nobody is working here on Friday and Saturday.


Funny you said that. Actually I've booked it on recommendation of my company. It's the closest hotel to the office.
Walking distance and I had to cross the street only once. Also, at least there were few small grocery stores near by and couple of restaurants. The Hilton where I'm staying at right now doesn't have anything around and it takes anything 15 to 30 minutes in a taxi to the office. The sad part is, when I return next month, I will probably stay at the Executives hotel again. Only because of the convenience. I'm tired of this traffic.

As for the prayers. Here in Riyadh they pray 6 times a day. I found out the hard way. Was going for lunch, closed. Later I went back to get some OJ, closed. I've been told by local guy to go to muslimpro.com It shows you every prayer each day.
For example today they had prayers at:
5:11
6:29
11:53
14:51
17:15
18:43

I've seen those London taxis at the airport. I'll take them next time.


It's not only for the hotel guests. You can take the elevator from the lobby to the roof without using your card. I think that people not staying in that hotel have to pay cover charge.
Also, I've seen a lot of locals arriving in Uber and going to the roof for drinks. During my visit to the roof, there was some karaoke going on.