tom911 goes to the Christmas Markets in Germany (AA,BA,LH)
Dec 12, 2017, 2:05 pm
#1
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tom911 goes to the Christmas Markets in Germany (AA,BA,LH)
I've come over to Germany for the Christmas Markets a couple times over the years. Couldn't find an affordable paid ticket from SFO this year, so I'm using AA miles going and UA miles coming back. Waited too long to get cheap advance purchase train tickets, so this time around I'm using Flixbus at about 1/3 the cost of rail.
SUNDAY
I was originally due to depart SFO at 4pm for LAX on American Airlines, connecting to the 7pm London flight and onto Berlin, but only had 75 mins to connect at LAX and any weather/smoke issue might cause me to misconnect. Decided to go to SFO early to get on the 1pm flight to LAX and the earlier 5:30pm London flight which had plenty of open seats, eventually connecting onto Berlin. After leaving home, received a text message that my original 7pm London flight was running 75 mins late, so even more of a reason to not take that flight, as delays tend to get longer as the day goes on.
Sounded like a great plan until London Heathrow had a snowstorm on Sunday and planes were delayed and cancelled left and right. One of the UK newspapers reported 50,000 passengers had flights delayed or cancelled.
The earlier LAX-London flight was one of those cancelled. The 7pm flight eventually departed at 8:45pm and was scheduled to arrive in London at 3:12pm Monday, an impossible connection to make for the connecting 4pm Berlin flight I was booked on, as you have to change terminals on a bus, go through another round of security, and your luggage would need to catch up with you. You’d also have to worry about the boarding cutoff which is usually 10-15 mins before departure. Glad that I proactively changed flights after seeing that. Just had a feeling that my original itinerary was going to fall apart.
I had a counter agent at SFO reroute me to Chicago on the 2:20pm flight (middle seat), and connected to the 10pm London flight from there which departed on time (window seat, empty middle on a new 787-800, 7 hour flight time), arriving at Heathrow at 11:30a.m. Monday. Charged my phone along the way with a USB power port next to the video screen - a very nice feature.
787-800 to London:
MONDAY
Fortunately, my 4pm Berlin flight went out as scheduled (three other Berlin flights had been cancelled and my flight was 100% full). Spent the down time, prior to departure, in a packed British Airways first class lounge in T5 enjoying sparking water, a glass of South African chardonnay, and some finger sandwiches. I have never seen this lounge so crowded. I had to walk around it twice until a seat opened up. I’ll be through there again in January, but never again after that, as I lose my top tier American Airlines status after 17 years with their new $12,000 revenue requirement for top tier that I can’t/won’t meet. Check out the departure monitors. Red indicates a flight that is not going out.
Couldn't get a decent BA flight photo due to ramp placement.
Landed in Berlin at 7pm (time zone change) and got the 109 bus into the city. About halfway in I transferred to the U Bahn which has a stop two blocks from my hotel. Was at my hotel about 8:15pm. Rained the whole way in.
I’m at the Courtyard this time, a new property for me, and I do have comped elite status with them after flying one million miles with United, a Marriott partner. I received an upgrade to a suite. There is a Motel One just down the block that would have been about 13 euros/$15 less, but knew I’d have a much nicer room here with a small price difference. I’ve done a lot of Motel One stays in Germany. Marriott has a promo right now offering a free lower tier night with two stays, so need this stay to qualify for that (have another Marriott stay elsewhere coming up).
Walked over to Gendarmenmarkt, just 10 minutes away, to get some fresh air. There is a nicely decorated Hilton there, along with a small Christmas market that charges 1 euro admission ($1,18), the only one I’ve ever seen do that. Didn’t go in and walked back to the hotel. I’ll see plenty of Christmas markets in the week ahead.
A couple more photos from the start of this trip here:
https://tom911.smugmug.com/Travel-Eu...mber/i-XMXF8vW
SUNDAY
I was originally due to depart SFO at 4pm for LAX on American Airlines, connecting to the 7pm London flight and onto Berlin, but only had 75 mins to connect at LAX and any weather/smoke issue might cause me to misconnect. Decided to go to SFO early to get on the 1pm flight to LAX and the earlier 5:30pm London flight which had plenty of open seats, eventually connecting onto Berlin. After leaving home, received a text message that my original 7pm London flight was running 75 mins late, so even more of a reason to not take that flight, as delays tend to get longer as the day goes on.
Sounded like a great plan until London Heathrow had a snowstorm on Sunday and planes were delayed and cancelled left and right. One of the UK newspapers reported 50,000 passengers had flights delayed or cancelled.
The earlier LAX-London flight was one of those cancelled. The 7pm flight eventually departed at 8:45pm and was scheduled to arrive in London at 3:12pm Monday, an impossible connection to make for the connecting 4pm Berlin flight I was booked on, as you have to change terminals on a bus, go through another round of security, and your luggage would need to catch up with you. You’d also have to worry about the boarding cutoff which is usually 10-15 mins before departure. Glad that I proactively changed flights after seeing that. Just had a feeling that my original itinerary was going to fall apart.
I had a counter agent at SFO reroute me to Chicago on the 2:20pm flight (middle seat), and connected to the 10pm London flight from there which departed on time (window seat, empty middle on a new 787-800, 7 hour flight time), arriving at Heathrow at 11:30a.m. Monday. Charged my phone along the way with a USB power port next to the video screen - a very nice feature.
787-800 to London:
MONDAY
Fortunately, my 4pm Berlin flight went out as scheduled (three other Berlin flights had been cancelled and my flight was 100% full). Spent the down time, prior to departure, in a packed British Airways first class lounge in T5 enjoying sparking water, a glass of South African chardonnay, and some finger sandwiches. I have never seen this lounge so crowded. I had to walk around it twice until a seat opened up. I’ll be through there again in January, but never again after that, as I lose my top tier American Airlines status after 17 years with their new $12,000 revenue requirement for top tier that I can’t/won’t meet. Check out the departure monitors. Red indicates a flight that is not going out.
Couldn't get a decent BA flight photo due to ramp placement.
Landed in Berlin at 7pm (time zone change) and got the 109 bus into the city. About halfway in I transferred to the U Bahn which has a stop two blocks from my hotel. Was at my hotel about 8:15pm. Rained the whole way in.
I’m at the Courtyard this time, a new property for me, and I do have comped elite status with them after flying one million miles with United, a Marriott partner. I received an upgrade to a suite. There is a Motel One just down the block that would have been about 13 euros/$15 less, but knew I’d have a much nicer room here with a small price difference. I’ve done a lot of Motel One stays in Germany. Marriott has a promo right now offering a free lower tier night with two stays, so need this stay to qualify for that (have another Marriott stay elsewhere coming up).
Walked over to Gendarmenmarkt, just 10 minutes away, to get some fresh air. There is a nicely decorated Hilton there, along with a small Christmas market that charges 1 euro admission ($1,18), the only one I’ve ever seen do that. Didn’t go in and walked back to the hotel. I’ll see plenty of Christmas markets in the week ahead.
A couple more photos from the start of this trip here:
https://tom911.smugmug.com/Travel-Eu...mber/i-XMXF8vW
Last edited by tom911; Dec 12, 2017 at 2:10 pm
Dec 12, 2017, 4:21 pm
#2
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Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Benicia CA
Programs: Alaska MVP Gold 75K, AA 3.8MM, UA 1.1MM, enjoying the retired life
Posts: 31,849
TUESDAY
Was up at 5am and down at 7am for the 15 euro/$17.65 buffet breakfast. Nice selection of rolls, hot food and cold cuts, along with juices and a waffle machine. Also had some hot tea. Worth the price so I don’t have to search for a breakfast place. It's normally over 18 euros but I was offered a discount on check-in.
Left the hotel at 10:30 for the walk over to Alexanderplatz, the location of the Flixbus I was taking to Leipzig, just over 30 minutes away. Weather was clear or I would have opted out and taken the U Bahn over. Quite windy, though. Fare was 8 euros, about $9.50, a very good value. It was 39 degrees/4C.
Google maps sent me to the backside of an office building. Talked with someone outside the building who used his keycard to let me in, cross the lobby, and exit at the actual bus stop that faced Alexanderplatz on the front side of the building. This is my first time using Flixbus from Berlin (have used it before in other cities) so only had an address to work with versus having seen the stop before.
Received a text message just before the 11:30 departure that the bus was delayed 30 minutes. It arrived right at 11:30, but the delay was due to the driver’s lunch break and it appeared he was running late and was due in to Berlin 30 minutes prior to departure to allow for his break. We promptly left at noon with all of six passengers. We made one stop in Berlin along the way and picked up 4-5 more passengers.
Travel time was 3 hours, just 20 mins over the scheduled time due to road construction and a lot of truck traffic. Watched one episode of The Crown on Netflix, and used the provided USB powerport and wi-fi connection along the way to listen to CNN on Tune-In Radio and the CBS Evening News. Due to the Christmas Markets the bus stop was relocated from near the Leipzig train station and my hotel to the back side of town, so a 15 min walk in to my hotel.
This time I’m at the Marriott Leipzig for 118 euros/$139 a night. It’s a little more than I like to pay for hotels (my typical hotel this time of year is under $100), but at the higher price it comes with lounge access which can offset the extra costs. After check-in I popped in for some Diet Pepsi and stollen. I'm just a few doors down from the lounge on the sixth floor. Was back at 6:30 for the evening options which included a sliced pork dish and pasta, enough to allow me to defer a restaurant dinner tonight. Enjoyed a very nice local white wine.
Out the door at 7 and spent two hours walking around the Christmas Markets which span several different locations around the city center. Took 111 photos and I’ll just post a few here. Saw a street artist working with sand (and when I returned late he had his sand all bagged up and the sculpture was gone). I did leave some coins. Please enjoy some traditional hot wine (gluhwein) while viewing the photos.
These are schneeballs (sugar covered pastry) - my friend Robert in Augsburg introduced them to me about 20 years ago in Rothenburg while touring there.
Back at the hotel at 9 and enjoyed some strawberry shortcake in the lounge and another glass of white wine.
Leipzig photos are here:https://tom911.smugmug.com/Travel-Eu...many-December/
Berlin photos from this morning start here:
https://tom911.smugmug.com/Travel-Eu...mber/i-gJJvK7n
Was up at 5am and down at 7am for the 15 euro/$17.65 buffet breakfast. Nice selection of rolls, hot food and cold cuts, along with juices and a waffle machine. Also had some hot tea. Worth the price so I don’t have to search for a breakfast place. It's normally over 18 euros but I was offered a discount on check-in.
Left the hotel at 10:30 for the walk over to Alexanderplatz, the location of the Flixbus I was taking to Leipzig, just over 30 minutes away. Weather was clear or I would have opted out and taken the U Bahn over. Quite windy, though. Fare was 8 euros, about $9.50, a very good value. It was 39 degrees/4C.
Google maps sent me to the backside of an office building. Talked with someone outside the building who used his keycard to let me in, cross the lobby, and exit at the actual bus stop that faced Alexanderplatz on the front side of the building. This is my first time using Flixbus from Berlin (have used it before in other cities) so only had an address to work with versus having seen the stop before.
Received a text message just before the 11:30 departure that the bus was delayed 30 minutes. It arrived right at 11:30, but the delay was due to the driver’s lunch break and it appeared he was running late and was due in to Berlin 30 minutes prior to departure to allow for his break. We promptly left at noon with all of six passengers. We made one stop in Berlin along the way and picked up 4-5 more passengers.
Travel time was 3 hours, just 20 mins over the scheduled time due to road construction and a lot of truck traffic. Watched one episode of The Crown on Netflix, and used the provided USB powerport and wi-fi connection along the way to listen to CNN on Tune-In Radio and the CBS Evening News. Due to the Christmas Markets the bus stop was relocated from near the Leipzig train station and my hotel to the back side of town, so a 15 min walk in to my hotel.
This time I’m at the Marriott Leipzig for 118 euros/$139 a night. It’s a little more than I like to pay for hotels (my typical hotel this time of year is under $100), but at the higher price it comes with lounge access which can offset the extra costs. After check-in I popped in for some Diet Pepsi and stollen. I'm just a few doors down from the lounge on the sixth floor. Was back at 6:30 for the evening options which included a sliced pork dish and pasta, enough to allow me to defer a restaurant dinner tonight. Enjoyed a very nice local white wine.
Out the door at 7 and spent two hours walking around the Christmas Markets which span several different locations around the city center. Took 111 photos and I’ll just post a few here. Saw a street artist working with sand (and when I returned late he had his sand all bagged up and the sculpture was gone). I did leave some coins. Please enjoy some traditional hot wine (gluhwein) while viewing the photos.
These are schneeballs (sugar covered pastry) - my friend Robert in Augsburg introduced them to me about 20 years ago in Rothenburg while touring there.
Back at the hotel at 9 and enjoyed some strawberry shortcake in the lounge and another glass of white wine.
Leipzig photos are here:https://tom911.smugmug.com/Travel-Eu...many-December/
Berlin photos from this morning start here:
https://tom911.smugmug.com/Travel-Eu...mber/i-gJJvK7n
Dec 13, 2017, 2:40 pm
#4
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Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Benicia CA
Programs: Alaska MVP Gold 75K, AA 3.8MM, UA 1.1MM, enjoying the retired life
Posts: 31,849
I don't mind the sand sculptures or even street musicians (haven't seen any here this trip - last time there were teens singing Christmas carols and I contributed). I just don't like people walking up to me, in any country, asking for money. On the BART trip to SFO there was a woman on board the train trying to raise $61 for something. I just tune them out. When I worked for BART in the 80s we had a woman with a baby work the trains every night for money for baby formula. She probably raised enough to fill an entire house, ceiling to floor, with cases of baby formula. One of the San Francisco TV stations did a piece recently where the fundraiser walked to their BMW at the end of the day. I don't even have one of those. 
Working right now on the Wednesday segment.
Working right now on the Wednesday segment.
Dec 13, 2017, 3:34 pm
#5
In Memoriam, FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Benicia CA
Programs: Alaska MVP Gold 75K, AA 3.8MM, UA 1.1MM, enjoying the retired life
Posts: 31,849
WEDNESDAY
Started the day with breakfast in the Marriott lounge. They offered scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, cereals, yogurt, and a variety of rolls, cheese, cold meat/salmon and fruit. Not as many items to choose from as the Courtyard in Berlin where I was in the restaurant for breakfast, but more than adequate for a lounge breakfast and I left full.
First stop today was the Leipzig Hauptbahnhof (train station) which suffered extensive damage during WWII and was rebuilt. It is the world’s largest train station in terms of total floor space and has 19 platforms and 21 tracks. The station first opened in 1915. It houses a shopping mall which is very popular.
Walked into the city center and visited the Galeria Kaufhof department store to check out their Christmas displays and items for sale.
Continued onto St Thomas Church where Johann Sebastian Bach was the choirmaster and is buried.
Walked about town and took some more photos. During the day it’s easier to get photos of the roofs of some Christmas Market vendors which are decorated.
Dinner in the Marriott lounge tonight was a plate of salad and some pork/carrots. I enjoyed some "Bacchus" white wine again.
Out at 7pm and it was raining. Went into the mall across from the Marriott and spent a few minutes in the Media Markt electronics store looking at laptops that I’ve not seen in the U.S. They have a large television section.
Walked out about 15 mins later to a light sprinkle. Visited some other shops and walked around the Christmas Market area. On the way back to the hotel I passed a shop with two menacing guards dogs locked behind a metal grate.
Off to Dresden tomorrow afternoon.
Photos for this section start here: https://tom911.smugmug.com/Travel-Eu...mber/i-FDDQWPv
Started the day with breakfast in the Marriott lounge. They offered scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, cereals, yogurt, and a variety of rolls, cheese, cold meat/salmon and fruit. Not as many items to choose from as the Courtyard in Berlin where I was in the restaurant for breakfast, but more than adequate for a lounge breakfast and I left full.
First stop today was the Leipzig Hauptbahnhof (train station) which suffered extensive damage during WWII and was rebuilt. It is the world’s largest train station in terms of total floor space and has 19 platforms and 21 tracks. The station first opened in 1915. It houses a shopping mall which is very popular.
Walked into the city center and visited the Galeria Kaufhof department store to check out their Christmas displays and items for sale.
Continued onto St Thomas Church where Johann Sebastian Bach was the choirmaster and is buried.
Walked about town and took some more photos. During the day it’s easier to get photos of the roofs of some Christmas Market vendors which are decorated.
Dinner in the Marriott lounge tonight was a plate of salad and some pork/carrots. I enjoyed some "Bacchus" white wine again.
Out at 7pm and it was raining. Went into the mall across from the Marriott and spent a few minutes in the Media Markt electronics store looking at laptops that I’ve not seen in the U.S. They have a large television section.
Walked out about 15 mins later to a light sprinkle. Visited some other shops and walked around the Christmas Market area. On the way back to the hotel I passed a shop with two menacing guards dogs locked behind a metal grate.
Off to Dresden tomorrow afternoon.
Photos for this section start here: https://tom911.smugmug.com/Travel-Eu...mber/i-FDDQWPv
Dec 14, 2017, 5:52 am
#6
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: JNB
Programs: Flying Blue, Miles and Smiles, Hhonors, ICHotels
Posts: 1,307
Great photos. I was in Leipzig a few weeks ago and did not realise how interesting the city is. My Business host took us on an informal tour on the Sunday, and then the Monday evening, most of the attendees for the seminar that I was conducting the next day joined us for an amazing walking tour of the old city.
Too early for the markets though - I would have enjoyed visiting at least one.
Too early for the markets though - I would have enjoyed visiting at least one.
Dec 14, 2017, 8:57 pm
#7
In Memoriam, FlyerTalk Evangelist
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Benicia CA
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Posts: 31,849
Last night in Dresden I saw someone working on an identical dog sand sculpture. I can see this must be an organized effort as I saw two of the same pieces in Leipzig and now a third here, all of the same design. Would be nice if they changed to elves during the holidays. Working on my Wednesday segment now.
Dec 14, 2017, 9:23 pm
#8
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THURSDAY
The 1pm Flixbus from Leipzig to Dresden, which continued onto Prague, was running 35 minutes late, so didn't depart Leipzig until 1:35pm. There was light rain for a few mins and more wind, so waited under an awning at a nearby train station until closer to departure (didn't get the delay notice until I had checked out of the hotel). Just over 90 minutes later we arrived next to the Dresden Hauptbahnhof (train station). The woman next to me on a completely full bus was continuing onto Prague and probably didn't like that she had to remove all her personal effects from my seat when I arrived. Bought at all day tram ticket for 6 euros/$7.10 and set off to my hotel which is located outside the city center. Could have walked there, but not a lot of time to visit today.
Arrival in Dresden:
I was upgraded to a large second floor executive room at the Holiday Inn. I'm also taking advantage of a promotion that offers a gift card for two IHG stays (second upcoming).
Back into the Aldstadt (old town) for the main Christmas Market area near Altmarkt. I toured here, popped into a department store and sporting goods store in the area, and had dinner at Vapiano's, my favorite chain here where they prepare your meal right in front of you.
puppets:
I had wheat spaghetti carbonara with a salad. I asked if they had Diet Coke or Coke Zero as all I could see was regular Coke in their display case. Before I could react, my cook had opened the bottle cap on a bottle of each. Total bill was 17 euros/$20, and a very informal place for a meal. Would have been $3 less without that second soft drink.
Back to the hotel on a tram similar to this one:
There's a secondary market near Frauenkirche (Our Lady's Church) but I did not make it over to that area. May be able to get some photos as I head out later this morning on the 11a.m. bus to Berlin, my final stop for this trip.
73 photos from Dresden are here:
https://tom911.smugmug.com/Travel-Eu...rmany-December
The 1pm Flixbus from Leipzig to Dresden, which continued onto Prague, was running 35 minutes late, so didn't depart Leipzig until 1:35pm. There was light rain for a few mins and more wind, so waited under an awning at a nearby train station until closer to departure (didn't get the delay notice until I had checked out of the hotel). Just over 90 minutes later we arrived next to the Dresden Hauptbahnhof (train station). The woman next to me on a completely full bus was continuing onto Prague and probably didn't like that she had to remove all her personal effects from my seat when I arrived. Bought at all day tram ticket for 6 euros/$7.10 and set off to my hotel which is located outside the city center. Could have walked there, but not a lot of time to visit today.
Arrival in Dresden:
I was upgraded to a large second floor executive room at the Holiday Inn. I'm also taking advantage of a promotion that offers a gift card for two IHG stays (second upcoming).
Back into the Aldstadt (old town) for the main Christmas Market area near Altmarkt. I toured here, popped into a department store and sporting goods store in the area, and had dinner at Vapiano's, my favorite chain here where they prepare your meal right in front of you.
puppets:
I had wheat spaghetti carbonara with a salad. I asked if they had Diet Coke or Coke Zero as all I could see was regular Coke in their display case. Before I could react, my cook had opened the bottle cap on a bottle of each. Total bill was 17 euros/$20, and a very informal place for a meal. Would have been $3 less without that second soft drink.
Back to the hotel on a tram similar to this one:
There's a secondary market near Frauenkirche (Our Lady's Church) but I did not make it over to that area. May be able to get some photos as I head out later this morning on the 11a.m. bus to Berlin, my final stop for this trip.
73 photos from Dresden are here:
https://tom911.smugmug.com/Travel-Eu...rmany-December
Dec 14, 2017, 9:39 pm
#9
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Join Date: Jun 2000
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Posts: 31,849
I find myself rotating between New York City, where I was born and have fond remembrances of Christmas displays, and Germany, pre-Christmas. Hard to get in the mood for Christmas in the San Francisco Bay Area. Now if there was just some snow here (there was snow when I was here back in January and it was wonderful, particularly being that I didn't have to drive in it).
Dec 15, 2017, 1:36 am
#10
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Germany
Programs: Some
Posts: 11,520
I had wheat spaghetti carbonara with a salad. I asked if they had Diet Coke or Coke Zero as all I could see was regular Coke in their display case. Before I could react, my cook had opened the bottle cap on a bottle of each. Total bill was 17 euros/$20, and a very informal place for a meal. Would have been $3 less without that second soft drink.
Dec 16, 2017, 3:07 am
#13
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Have made it to Berlin and will head up to the Christmas Market in Potsdam this afternoon, one of many in and around Berlin.
Dec 16, 2017, 3:32 am
#14
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Denver, Colorado
Programs: IHG Spire, Hilton Honors Gold, Marriott Titanium, Mileage Plus Gold
Posts: 1,736
Great report! Christmas markets of Europe is on my todo list for next December. Please don't be upset if I copy your itinerary next year.
Dec 16, 2017, 3:49 am
#15
In Memoriam, FlyerTalk Evangelist
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Programs: Alaska MVP Gold 75K, AA 3.8MM, UA 1.1MM, enjoying the retired life
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You might look at Nuremburg, too, which has a large Market scattered over the city. Have been there before, but it didn't work into the schedule this trip because the hotels I would stay at there were either sold out or just priced too high ($200+) by the time I booked my award ticket. I have photos from there on my Germany page: https://tom911.smugmug.com/Travel-Europe/Germany