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SFO-AKL-SFO UA Polaris - The Shire, Mordor, Edoras & More
Maybe it's because I started to get sick the past few days, or just in general feeling listless; but, the ennui that has set in will cause this to be a bit more terse than my other TRs you may have read.
Anyways, ever since the LOTR movies and visiting NZ in 2005 to do the Ironman triathlon I have always wanted to come back. I made it to Australia 4x in that time but never made it this way. I had 2 GPUs to burn and I was able to find R space at booking a few months ago on SFO-AKL-SFO. That flight went from a 3 class 777 to 787 to new 77W with UA's debut Polaris seat. The flight went seasonal and luckily I made it 2 days into the new schedule; however, it went to 6 days a week meaning SFO-AKL doesn't run on Monday and AKL-SFO doesn't run on Wednesday. I was fine coming down but to keep my GPU they put me on the Tuesday flight so I lost a day. I reality I didn't mind as it was one less night in AKL which I really didn't find all that exciting as it was. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNwg6kDVQAAAf2-.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNwg6kBUQAABSaV.jpg 12 Days: Night in Hamilton, Hobbiton Set to Whakatane to Taupo, Tororingo Crossing trek *canceled*, drive down to Wellington, Weta Workshop tour / fly to Christchurch, Edoras-LOTR filming locations tour, drive to Franz Josef Glacier, heli hike, scenic drive to Queenstown, canyon rope swing / fly to Auckland, stay the night and fly back to SFO |
United Polaris 77W SFO-AKL & Hamilton to Hobbiton
As I mentioned above I was happy that the plane went to the new 77W flagship and the change to flying back a day earlier wasn't that big of a deal. The lounge situation in SFO is pretty bad right now, the old GlobalFirst lounge is the long-haul J/F lounge. *G in Y use the regular United Clubs but there isn't one in the G terminal. While it was full it wasn't as bad as reports of lines out the door and things like that. The booze is self-serve and the food is similar to what they had in the GFL. By the time we took off (about 25 min late because a plane blocking us from backing out of the gate) and were in the air towards the end of dinner it was after 1am SFO time and I was feeling tired. I wanted to get as much sleep as I could to hit the ground running in AKL. Sad that the chick listed on the menu wasn't catered and instead the Asian fusion noodle soup was which is AMAZING. Had I known I would have had that instead of the bland fish. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNl0LmbVoAAzL6j.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNl0MfGVwAEjxe_.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNl0OGtU8AEf2Of.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNl0PRiVwAAdd1-.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNl0eBjV4AAYUUD.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNl0fJnUQAEEp_-.jpg https://instagram.fchc1-1.fna.fbcdn....88020992_n.jpg I'm sure you've all seen the new cabin/seats. I didn't take any pics but here's an excuse to show my spoiled nephew in on the 77W when we flew back HNL-SFO this summer. I love the side table and lamp. The odd rows on the window "true window" seats are great. I got about 7h of sleep (5.5 + 1.5 nap later), the gel pillow and PJs were eventually found by the purser. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DG0k6fkU0AAexRT.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNl0hRSVoAAYs-R.jpg We landed and had a bus gate...not a cute look after a 12.5 hour flight. Once in the terminal it was nice to use the e-gates and breeze right through. By the time I changed cash, withdrew from the ATM and used the toilet my bag was on the belt. About 15 min waiting at customs with all the bio-security measures and what not. Luckily they took my word that my trail running shows and protein powder were not a concern. I had read that AKL has free public showers in the INTL arrivals hall. When you exit go to the left and you'll see the signs next to the McDonald's. You have to bring your own towel/supplies or you can buy a towel at Relay across the hall for $18NZD/$12USD. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNl0gO-UQAAW3AR.jpg Flash backs to 2005 when we flew in for the Ironman and a dog sniffed my Dad's back to which for 2 hours they had him in secondary and went through every single thing on him. Pre-smart phone and easy to get INTL data plans I was in the dark waiting that whole time for him. My own fault for walking to the parking lot twice the Hertz booth in the hall says Gold go to the desk in the parking lot...I forgot to read below that to do it after 10am. So back into the hall and after assuring the lady I am fine driving on the left (2 months in Australia and 5 months on a scooter in Thailand) I was back out and got upgraded from the small car I booked to a Rav 4. Honestly I didn't care as it is just me, but having the BlueTooth is great so I can listen to my podcasts on the drive. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNl0xGHUIAAMDsQ.jpg I made my way to meet two guys to do a shoot in the Westmere/Ponosby area of the city. Had a great avocado toast and coffee at Catroux waiting for them. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNl0yDRVAAAh0ED.jpg My cross to bear...having to deal with this. https://instagram.fchc1-1.fna.fbcdn....60250880_n.jpg Couldn't miss Garnet Station on the way to the freeway to head down to Hamilton. Really cute little spot, I convinced them it's actually REALLY good to throw a shot of espresso in a chai or golden latte. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNl0zqLV4AA52hc.jpg Stopped for some fruit and a pie. The pie is homemade by this lady in her little shop and was great. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNl1Y1QUIAAPOCh.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNl1aMkUEAAWCbb.jpg Wasn't really fussed for 1 night in Hamilton and had landed on Argent Motor Lodge. It's right off of the main south bound road so it can get a little busy at peak times. The check in was super fast and friendly, the rooms were clean and new. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNmMA8xUMAA3G4a.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNmMCQhVoAE-Dgk.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNmMETyUEAAG4ov.jpg An acquaintance from NY sent me a message seeing I was there and mentioned his family had a Vietnamese restaurant so I stopped there to have dinner. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNsBao4U8AA3uCV.jpg The summer rolls were really good, the curry a little bland. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNsBc85UQAAnro0.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNsBbwUVAAUikJc.jpg After hitting up a Crossfit gym at 6am on their corner I couldn't miss Mamas Donuts and I was very happy I stopped. Probably the best maple donut I've ever had. It's on the southbound road so if you are ever driving to Taupo, etc you can't miss it. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNpem9JVQAA_u6O.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNpen6nVoAA4Btp.jpg 45-50min drive from Hamilton is The Hobbiton movie set. A really nice guided tour. I would suggest going in the earlier times so there are not as many groups/people ahead of you and you can get some photos with it looking like no one is there. http://78.media.tumblr.com/c0f883615...0xjo3_1280.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNrhx0sWAAE0MUK.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNrhy7sUIAAbjTD.jpg http://78.media.tumblr.com/c36de9bda...0xjo1_1280.jpg https://instagram.fchc1-1.fna.fbcdn....07603968_n.jpg It was amazing to see something in real life that had been visualized on screen from pages I have read for over 20 years. Obviously filming is all done but there were probably 3-4 areas that were being fixed/updated/painted simply for the upkeep of keeping the set around for the tours. To finish off you get 15 minutes at The Green Dragon that includes some beer/ale/cider on the house and you can buy snacks. The main area where you meet and get bussed into the set also has a coffee shop and cafe...had a great salad and steak/ale pie. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNrh0WdXcAAqcoT.jpg http://78.media.tumblr.com/3b0a6c2b9...0xjo2_1280.jpg By Noon it was on the road to Taupo with a long detour to Whakatane... |
Cool trip!
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Taupo to Wellington
So I could have taken the a fairly straight shot to Taupo from Hobbiton; however, I had found someone amazing on IG that I wanted to photograph so the plan was to drive up through Whakatane and down. Since I had nothing to do in Taupo that day I wasn't in a rush and didn't mind burning the petrol. Long story short after the drive and waiting around the Heads for 45 min I got flaked on. The town looked cute and the seaside was beautiful. https://78.media.tumblr.com/ae0539de...0xjo2_1280.jpg A bucolic drive through the mountains and farmlands 2h15m later would be back down in Taupo. Lake Taupo is the special place to me in NZ as it's the first, and really only, place I had visited. Also, doing the Ironman was and always will be one of the high points of my life. I basically just looked around at Expedia prices/reviews to pick a place along the water and settled on Millennium Manuels. The location was nice, it was about 2 miles down from the main center/corner of town and sits right on the water. The front desk staff was lovely and there's a bar and restaurant. However, it's a bit dated and coquettish making me think that it is a place my Grandparents would have gone in the 80-90s and always went back because it was not changing/familiar. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNrh5RtUIAElmLS.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNrh6PYVAAEX1Z2.jpg Googling a place to have dinner I settled on Plateau once I saw the venison and gnocchi dishes. Both were amazing and I would kill to have them at home. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNr59BwU8AAq-lW.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNr566qVAAELkJq.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNr58APVQAA3mVT.jpg Once inside I was having deja vu...is this where my Dad and I ate 12 years ago? I remember loving it, looks familiar and they have the Antipodes water I wanted to get cases of to take home. I confirmed with the hostess they were open about 14 years ago so low and behold this is where we ate. That then got me to scout around a block or two and found the place where we stayed when we came for the Ironman. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNr59-nU8AcNT3h.jpg My only full day I was supposed to do the Tongariro Alpine crossing trek. An amazing 20km along the volcano tops where they did some filming for Mordor in LOTR. I woke up at 4:30am so I could get ready to make the 1h05m drive down for the 7:30 shuttle. You park at the end of the trek and hire a shuttle to take you around to the start so you can do the one-way hike. At 4:45 they emailed saying it was canceled because of the rain and 45-60 km/h wind up there. Didn't get back to sleep so looked around online and settled on BodyFuel Cafe for breakfast once they opened. The "Paleo Toast" was good and I went back the next morning and had the huevos rancheros which were awesome as well. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNu32l1UEAAOxVE.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNz4s0IV4AA_dWR.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNu38nmUMAANshB.jpg Googled some things to do close by so after breakfast drove up to Huka Falls and then over to Craters of the Moon geo-thermal park. Falls you can do in 5-10min the walk through the park is about 45min and was actually really idyllic and slightly eerie with only seeing 3 other people there that morning. https://scontent-syd2-1.cdninstagram...64234240_n.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN2xhZnV4AUUJHs.jpg Had some more venison at Vine Eatery. Food was good, lots of wine, service kinda sucked. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNv5dV7VwAAwie5.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNv5ahTUIAEWZAj.jpg Luckily I was also able to book online last minute a seat on the Rapids Jet. It. Was. FUN! I was surprised how fast it went and how crazy they actually drove and the fact that you do go up and down rapids in the river. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNwWQ0JVoAAkf6Z.jpg I had been passing a parked VW bug with a sign on top that I thought said "Mole' Chicken" and googled it to find out it was actually a pub that sits on a hill. I went up there to have dinner and indulge in their steak & Guinness pie. Lovely staff. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNxLM9bUEAAsePE.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNxLL6gUMAAflQW.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DNxLN2dUIAEif3a.jpg Got up and hit the road for what would be a 4h50m drive without the stops. https://78.media.tumblr.com/90248db5...0xjo3_1280.jpg Sadly as I was going through Tongariro Park clouds were covering both mountain tops. https://78.media.tumblr.com/f80e546b...0xjo2_1280.jpg https://78.media.tumblr.com/fc0a36a9...0xjo1_1280.jpg https://78.media.tumblr.com/52a3cc0a...0xjo4_1280.jpg Flashbacks to the 9-12 hour days driving alone around Iceland. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN0Xz9iVwAAP8Sw.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN0XyXaUIAAHTK8.jpg Once I got to Waiouru I passed on the military's offer and went across the street to The Pen Cafe. Yes, it's full of pens. 95,000 of the 250,000 in the collection are on display. You can donate so I threw in the box the little blue choad that is in the new United 747 tins. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN0XxTiUQAEefdl.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN0X1s9UEAAM_X7.jpg Further down the road I was getting hungry so I pulled off in Hunterville which was a little quaint spot and had a toastie and flat white at Relish. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN1LRKnV4AAbcib.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN1LSJFVQAAdsmN.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN1LPKqVAAADRqa.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN1LQEyVQAED0mq.jpg One more stop in Otaki at the BP to use the toilet and stock up on some packs of the biltong they sell there. Once I got outside of Wellington I was remind of the drives during college from Gaviota to Santa Barbara and down to Ventura. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN1mSp7VwAASWSb.jpg |
Thanks for the TR so far. Great commentary and great pix!
The wines on your UA flight were seriously unworthy of Biz! |
Fabulous TR! Super fun. Great pictures - your meals look delicious.
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Nice TR. Thanks for sharing ^
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Great report. Love NZ and seeing all these places again - but my favourite part is the food you are eating! Yum - venison, ham and cheese toasties....
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We are huge LOTR fans so I particularly enjoyed this report. I always love your photos, especially your food shots. You always manage to find excellent food, I’ve noticed. Do you spend a lot of time researching restaurants in advance?
Safe travels. |
Originally Posted by 1P
(Post 29020177)
Thanks for the TR so far. Great commentary and great pix!
The wines on your UA flight were seriously unworthy of Biz!
Originally Posted by janehoya
(Post 29021103)
We are huge LOTR fans so I particularly enjoyed this report. I always love your photos, especially your food shots. You always manage to find excellent food, I’ve noticed. Do you spend a lot of time researching restaurants in advance?
Safe travels. I pretty much either A) walk and find a place or B) spend 3-4 min on google.
Originally Posted by VH-RMD
(Post 29021023)
Great report. Love NZ and seeing all these places again - but my favourite part is the food you are eating! Yum - venison, ham and cheese toasties....
The nice thing was the whole drive through each small town seemed to have their own cute to quaint cafes and shops. I feel doing a similar 5h drive through most places in the US I wouldn't want to stop at. |
Welly & Weta
I can't recall what the deciding factor for booking Park Hotel Lambton Quay was (probably being listed as VIP+ on Expedia). The rooms were big and comfortable. Wifi is a 1GB/day limit for $9.99 NZD for unlimited 24h. Parking is $20 NZD/night and is pretty limited (it does sit in the CBD). The big bonus was the FREE laundry machines on each floor. I was expecting to have to find a place in Christchurch the next few days to wash some of my workout clothes, socks and underwear. They also give you free passes to Les Mills gym. If I were to come to Welly again I would maybe look for something nice outside of the CBD. Though for having been in Hamilton and Taupo where I needed to drive to the store, food, etc it was nice to just get out and walk. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN1LZNaUMAA7oWj.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN1LaRfUMAANfSk.jpg A nice free bottle of Pinot for the VIP+ amenity. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN1LbPhUIAEHYMy.jpg Once I got settled I got on Google Earth and poked around and decided I would take a drive over to Te Kopahou and do the 8-10km (round trip) walk along the coast line. I was not disappointed other than the fact that it is an out and back trail. I hate seeing the same thing twice and when I am in Tahoe or elsewhere I always try to find things that are loops. Apparently when you get towards the end it's an area where seals congregate but I think it must not be the right time of the year. https://78.media.tumblr.com/3e5842aa...0xjo2_1280.jpg https://78.media.tumblr.com/f02b7c3c...90xjo4_540.jpg https://78.media.tumblr.com/056336c8...0xjo3_1280.jpg https://78.media.tumblr.com/6644b60b...0xjo1_1280.jpg Looking at food in the area I saw The Original Thai had a good rating and popped in to get food. Lucky that I did because nearly on the dot at 6:30 the place filled up. I thought the guy was joking when I walked in at 6:15 empty and he asked if I had made a reservation. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN2XLctUIAAsdKE.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN2XM0JUQAEDoNp.jpg The point of coming to Wellington was to do the Weta Workshop and Studio tour. Other bonus was that not far from the hotel at The Beanery by Mojo I was able to finally find a place that serves cold coffee! https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN41L_RVQAAbjCG.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN41M-gVoAAtfWS.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN41PT2UQAAzLAq.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN41OQwU8AAymuU.jpg After some coffee with enough time before the 10:30 tour I googled places to eat breakfast and went to Floraditas on Cuba Street (which I came back to later...a cute pedestrian shopping, cafe, bar street). "Are you expecting someone else...?" NO https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN5N534V4AApk8w.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN5N-jUVoAAfpMm.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN5N_MJUMAEZNPA.jpg The Weta Cave/Studio/Workshop sits in Miramar a little point and neighborhood past the airport. An easy 15 min drive from the hotel. They'll pick you up in the CBD but I didn't want to be committed to that and would rather drive on my own. I booked the combo tour which does the Weta studios going through the props, masks, weapons and other things the build. After that in the combo you go 3 min away to the set where they film Thunderbirds Are Go. There's no photos allowed other than in the gift shop and in the final staged area of each tour. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN7koI1V4AEqYW3.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN7kpR_VoAATEyf.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN7kq8lVAAYHMfK.jpg https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN7ksX8UIAAIgqU.jpg After the tour and gym I went to walk around the CBD and Cuba Street. I saw someone wearing a t-shirt with a Kiwi bird's nose on a record and ended up finding the store that sold it so I could get for my DJ friend. With not much else to do I went and saw Thor and then feasted on some Nando's while I packed and took care of my laundry. https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DN7kr77UMAA37j-.jpg |
Originally Posted by JVPhoto
(Post 29016358)
[...]
Had a great avocado toast and coffee at Catroux waiting for them. [...] After hitting up a Crossfit gym at 6am on their corner [...]
Originally Posted by JVPhoto
(Post 29027281)
Other bonus was that not far from the hotel at The Beanery by Mojo I was able to finally find a place that serves cold coffee!
Nope, I was wrong. :D Great TR, JVPhoto! |
Originally Posted by DoTheBartMan
(Post 29027724)
Let me guess, you're a millennial wearing a man bun... ;)
Nope, I was wrong. :D Great TR, JVPhoto! |
Great trip report! Loving the photos and details. I'd love to see where Hobbits lived!
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I'm enjoying reminiscing about my travels in NZ reading your TR. Looking forward to reading more. :)
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