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DanielW May 24, 2017 9:56 am

A Trip To Havana
 
My trip to Havana, cruising through the city in a classic Chevy convertible, wandering through the streets and alleys of beautiful Old Havana, sampling the fine hand-rolled Cuban cigars in Viñales and enjoying the atmosphere and refreshingly cool daiquirís at El Floridita.

My previous trip report's can be found below:

A Trip to Afghanistan
A Journey Through Kyrgyzstan
A Trip Around The Arabian Gulf
A Trip To Yemen
A Trip To Jordan & Israel
A Southern African Adventure
Road Trip to Saudi Arabia & Qatar
Five Days In Japan
Underground In New Zealand
A Trip To Iran
A Trip Around The Mediterranean
A Long Weekend In Paris
A Trip To Ukraine, Belarus & Russia
A Trip To Kenya & Tanzania
Beautiful Thailand
To Muscat For A Travel Magazine
Everest in Full Picture
A Trip To Bali & Dili
A Trip To Northern Iraq
Winter Trip To Europe
Christmas In Mogadishu
A Trip To Sudan
A Trip To DR Congo & Rwanda
Twelve Days Across Africa
A Trip To Lebanon
A Long Weekend In Prague
A Trip To Laos, Vietnam & Hong Kong
Off Road In Kazakhstan
A Trip To Turkmenistan
Six Days In Sri Lanka
A Trip To Copenhagen & Stockholm
Sixteen Days In West Africa
A Trip To Maldives
A Trip To Armenia & Nagorno-Karabakh
To The Frontlines Against ISIS
A Weekend In Baku
Return To New Zealand Via South-East Asia
Three Days In Georgia
A Trip To Bulgaria
A Trip To Iceland & Greenland
Back To Southern Africa
A Trip To Canada
A Trip To Eritrea
A Trip To Romania
A Trip To Djibouti
A Trip To Bangladesh
Three Days In Mexico City

DanielW May 24, 2017 9:57 am


Day 0.

The conference I had been attending in San Diego ended mid-morning on Thursday. I had been pretty busy with two presentations, being chairman for one of the sessions as well as 7am breakfast meetings for three of the four mornings, so I did not have a chance to see much of San Diego outside of the downtown area.

After checking out of the Omni San Diego Hotel and storing my suitcase, I walked down to the USS Midway, a former US Navy aircraft carrier that was now a museum ship and the largest aircraft carrier in the world open to the public.

The 'Embracing Peace' sculpture of the iconic sailor kissing a nurse just across from the USS Midway.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...zTk/0/O/01.jpg

After buying my ticket at the pier and having my camera bag checked at security by a Navy Veteran, I headed aboard.

In the hangar, looking down at a Grumman F4F Wildcat. The USS Midway was built during World War 2 but was not commissioned until the 10th of September, 1945, eight days after the surrender of Japan.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...fkM/0/O/02.jpg

A Douglas A-4 Skyhawk on one of the hangar elevators amongst diners at the museum cafeteria. The USS Midway was America's longest-serving aircraft carrier of the 20th century and the only carrier to serve the entire length of the Cold War. It was also the largest ship in the world for the decade after it was first built.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...PxQ/0/O/03.jpg

DanielW May 24, 2017 9:57 am


One of the pilot 'Ready rooms'. Each air wing on the Midway had their own ready room. The air fleet of the USS Midway went through four generations of aircraft, ranging from the WW2-era Grumman F4F Wildcat up to the McDonnell Douglas F/A-18 Hornet during the first Gulf War.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...QDs/0/O/04.jpg

Deep inside the ship, the all important operations room.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...Knw/0/O/05.jpg

And one of the several huge galleys on the ship. With 4,000+ crew on board there were alot of hungry people to feed!
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...djk/0/O/06.jpg

On the carrier deck, looking back towards downtown San Diego.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...2bD/0/O/07.jpg

DanielW May 24, 2017 9:58 am


A Grumman F-14 Tomcat, famous from the movie Top Gun.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...3jn/0/O/08.jpg

Looking over to Naval Air Station North Island with the USS Theodore Roosevelt (CVN-71) in port and a SH-60 Seahawk passing overhead. I had only intended to spend an hour or two at the USS Midway but ended spend just over three!
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...CQM/0/O/09.jpg

After the very interesting visit to the USS Midway, I walked back long the waterfront to Seaport Village and had a California Burrito for a late lunch.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...VMX/0/O/10.jpg

I had messaged Madone59 earlier in the week if he wanted to catch up again and we had agreed to meet up before my flight this evening to Havana.

After picking me up back at the Omni San Diego, we drove across the San Diego–Coronado Bridge. The USS Zumwalt leaving port, a $4 billion Stealth guided missile destroyer of the US Navy.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...09d4/O/10A.jpg

DanielW May 24, 2017 9:59 am


And on to the Hotel del Coronado.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...2z9/0/O/11.jpg

And then had some beers in the afternoon sun and chatted about recent travels including his recent whirlwind first-class, four continent, around the world adventure.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...JkG/0/O/12.jpg

We then went for a bit of walk around the very grand old hotel. Construction of the 399 room hotel first began in 1887 and then opened for business in February 1888. With all the wooden construction, a freshwater pipeline was run under San Diego Bay to deal with fire hazards, with water tanks and sprinklers also installed.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...QsR/0/O/13.jpg

In the magnificant lobby. All U.S. Presidents since President Eisenhower have stayed at the hotel (with the exception so far of Donald Trump).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...PRR/0/O/14.jpg

DanielW May 24, 2017 9:59 am


A large sandcastle out on Coronado Beach.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...wTB/0/O/15.jpg

The sun getting lower on the horizon over the Pacific Ocean at the end of the day.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...xwN/0/O/16.jpg

Marilyn Monroe. We then walked back to Madone59's car and drove back over to San Diego.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...8Zb/0/O/17.jpg

As the sunlight began to fade, we went for a walk through the El Prado and admired all the beautiful buildings in the dwindling twilight. Originally built in 1915 for an Expo, the area has been listed on the National Register of Historic Places since 1976.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...Tgs/0/O/18.jpg

DanielW May 24, 2017 10:00 am


Looking across to the downtown area as we walk over Cabrillo Bridge.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...jdk/0/O/19.jpg

For dinner we headed over to the Fish Market Restaurant and grabbed a seat outside by the bay.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...kCF/0/O/20.jpg

Madone59 had recommended the monkfish. I had never tasted it before and after a quick google on my phone was abit taken back by this very ugly creature. I decided to tempt fate though and it was actually quite delicious!
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...7w3/0/O/21.jpg

DanielW May 24, 2017 10:00 am


It was soon time to head to the airport to start my trip to Cuba. Madone59 dropped me off at San Diego International Airport where we bid each other farewell and I thanked him again for his hospitality and the great evening tour of San Diego.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...ZKn/0/O/22.jpg

My flights for the trip to Havana were:
Day 0: Flying JetBlue (JB) from San Diego to Fort Lauderdale (SAN-FLL).
Day 1: Flying JetBlue (JB) from Fort Lauderdale to Havana(FLL-HAV).
Day 5: Flying Delta Air Lines (AM) from Havana to New York (HAV-JFK).

http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...7HB/0/O/23.gif

I had wanted to travel to Cuba for many years but the distance from Dubai had meant that it was always low on my list of travel priorities. From San Diego however it was much more accessible so I had made plans after the conference to spend a few days in Havana.

My one-way Jetblue flight from San Diego to Havana via Fort Lauderdale was a reasonable $235. Jetblue is one of the few US airlines to not charge for checked baggage so fortunately there were no extra fees.

Check in was relatively straight forward and the check-in agent asked to see my return ticket and my reason for flying to Cuba. As I handed over my Delta ticket to New York and my NZ passport I simply told the agent I was travelling for tourism. US citizens are technically banned by the US government from travelling to Cuba for the purposes of tourism, however there are twelve categories of travel which are not prohibited (such as 'support for the Cuban people') and which are ambiguous enough that the tourism ban is not strictly enforced.

There was no queue for security and after passing through the body scanner I was through to the gate in no time.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...96q/0/O/24.jpg

The Jetblue A320 waiting at the gate.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...sNb/0/O/25.jpg

We boarded on time for the 10:30pm departure and after putting in my ear plugs and putting on my eye mask I quickly dosed off to sleep.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...95P/0/O/26.jpg

DanielW May 24, 2017 10:01 am


Day 1.

We arrived on time at Fort Lauderdale–Hollywood International Airport just before 6am local time. Luckily the gate for my connecting flight to Cuba was just across from our arrival gate.

I was dying for some caffeine but the lone coffee shop near the gate had a massive queue so I quickly gave up on that idea.

Foreigners travelling to Cuba have to buy a tourist card and Jetblue had a desk at the gate where you buy one for $50. The US citizens on the flight also had to sign a one page document ticking one of the 12 authorised reasons for travel to Cuba. Although President Obama significantly eased travel to Cuba by Americans during the 2015 Cuban Thaw, as only the Cuban trade embargo can only be ended by Congress, US travellers still have to go through this bit of a charade if they wish to visit Cuba.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...tLp/1/O/27.jpg

The Jetblue A319 for the flight to Havana waiting at the gate. We boarded just after 7:30am for the flight to Havana.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...dMZ/1/O/28.jpg

Free snack and drink handed out for the short ~45 minute flight.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...HQq/0/O/29.jpg

Getting closer to Havana's José Martí International Airport.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...fp7/0/O/30.jpg

And my passport and tourist card stamped into Cuba, my 105th country visited.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...XXn/0/O/31.jpg

DanielW May 24, 2017 10:02 am


After collecting my suitcase from the luggage belt, I headed through to meet my taxi driver my Airbnb host had organised for me. I then tried to use the ATM but it unfortunately was having problems, so I queued up at the airport cambio (currency exchange) to exchange some euro's for Cuban convertible pesos (CUC).

Arriving in Old Havana after the ~30 minute ride from the airport.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...x39/0/O/32.jpg

My Airbnb flat for the next two nights. It was in a great location and only a few minutes walk from Plaza Vieja.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...6Wk/0/O/33.jpg

And the main bedroom with the all important (and super cold) air conditioner. It was my first time using Airbnb and for only $37 a night I was very satisfied.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...23G/0/O/34.jpg

I was super tired after the red-eye flight but with the excitement of arriving in such a unique and interesting place I had seen in many photographs and films, I grabbed my camera and headed out for a bit of a walk.

Dos señoras.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...JRd/0/O/35.jpg

While alot of them needed some maintenance and repair, the weather-worn buildings with peeling paint were all part of the charm of Old Havana.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...Z7G/0/O/36.jpg

Tendedero (clothesline).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...88p/0/O/37.jpg

Lamparilla Street.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...78v/0/O/38.jpg

DanielW May 24, 2017 10:02 am


DanielW May 24, 2017 10:03 am


Chicos. I was starting to fade at this point so headed back to the Airbnb and crashed for a good one hour nap.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...pQ5/0/O/44.jpg

Just after 1pm I went out to nearby Café Havana for an espresso to help wake me up.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...bnJ/0/O/45.jpg

Followed by the roast chicken and rice for lunch. For less than CUC$5 with the coffee it was very reasonable.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...Vdg/0/O/46.jpg

Primary School. I then resumed my wander through Old Havana.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...d4x/0/O/47.jpg

One hundred and ten.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...MJt/0/O/48.jpg

One the many 1950's American classic cars on the streets of Havana. I never quite got used to seeing these beautiful old cars about!
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...n2q/0/O/49.jpg

DanielW May 24, 2017 10:03 am


DanielW May 24, 2017 10:05 am


Aduana.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...X66/0/O/56.jpg

Internet.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/i-kG...de6b/O/56A.jpg

Embrace.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...mFj/0/O/57.jpg

Jet black.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...Vt7/0/O/58.jpg

Cigar.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...tWV/0/O/59.jpg

Baker.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...wHm/0/O/60.jpg

I couldn't resist.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...gDB/0/O/61.jpg

Cafeteria.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...WLw/0/O/62.jpg

Pasear al perro (walking the dog).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...n24/0/O/63.jpg

Into the frame.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...pqD/0/O/64.jpg

La Barriga.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...zVc/0/O/65.jpg

Basketball.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...mwm/0/O/66.jpg

DanielW May 24, 2017 10:05 am


Cuba.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...Zsk/0/O/67.jpg

Barbero.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...Vbx/0/O/68.jpg

Boy.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...wBh/0/O/69.jpg

Outside La Gargola Guesthouse just after 4pm, the meetup point for a classic American car tour of Havana I had booked.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...dg8/0/O/70.jpg

We split up into two groups for the tour. The driver for our car was Juan and Maritsa was our guide. We then headed off for our two hour tour of Havana.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...qrB/0/O/71.jpg

Driving along side the other classic 1950's convertible on our tour.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...GDc/0/O/72.jpg

Continuing our cruise down Paseo de Martí, a stately European-style boulevard and the first street outside the old city walls.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...FDT/0/O/73.jpg

Coming up to El Capitolio, the National Capitol Building. Completed in 1929, it was the seat of government until the Cuban Revolution in 1959. It is now home to the Cuban Academy of Sciences.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...sxf/0/O/74.jpg

And along Calle Simón Bolívar with Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón de Jesús up ahead, the country’s tallest and most beautiful Catholic church.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...5dq/0/O/75.jpg

On Avenida Salvador Allende where one of the cars needed a bit of TLC to get her going again.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...qWj/0/O/76.jpg

At the first stop of the tour, on Plaza de la Revolución. In the background on the right is the Ministry of Communications building with the image of Cuban revolutionary Camilo Cienfuegos with the quotation "Vas bien, Fidel" (You're doing fine, Fidel).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...tt7/0/O/77.jpg

And cruising past the Ministry of Interior building, with an image of Che Guevara with the quotation "Hasta la Victoria Siempre" (Until the Everlasting Victory, Always).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...xkF/0/O/78.jpg

Driving along the 140 acre Cementerio de Cristóbal Colón and home to more than 800,000 graves and 1 million interments.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...r4Q/0/O/79.jpg

At an intersection in Vedado.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...Bj7/0/O/80.jpg

Stopping at a park where we stretched our legs. Down by the river were some pigeon feathers and blood. Our guide Maritsa said it was from an animal sacrifice from a Santería ceremony, an Afro-American religion of Caribbean origin that is influenced by Roman Catholicism and that is becoming increasingly popular in Cuba.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...fjX/0/O/81.jpg

We then continued our cruise through Vedado.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...rv4/0/O/82.jpg

Through a tunnel under the Almendares River.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...Vb6/0/O/83.jpg

And along the famous Malecón, a broad esplanade, roadway and seawall which stretches for 8 km (5 miles) along the coast from the Almendares River to Paseo del Prado.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...xsP/0/O/84.jpg

Driving past the Embassy of the United States, which had been recently reopened after the resumption of diplomatic ties between the two countries.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...KCC/0/O/85.jpg

In 2006, when the building was officially the United States Interests Section in Havana, the US began displaying messages on a scrolling "electronic billboard" on the building, including the George Burns quotation, "How sad that all the people who would know how to run this country are driving taxis or cutting hair". The Cuban government erected a large number of poles, carrying black flags with single white stars, obscuring the messages. The US removed the billboard in 2009 and the Cubans removed the flags in 2015 after the thaw in relations.

And at the end of our drive through Havana, outside the Hotel Nacional de Cuba where we thanked Juan for the fun and memorable tour through Havana.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...nSb/0/O/86.jpg

We then went inside to the hotel bar for a drink. On the walls were some of the famous visitors to the hotel, including Winston Churchill, Jimmy Carter, Frank Sinatra, John Wayne, Marlon Brando and Yuri Gagarin.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...K3Q/0/O/87.jpg

And a large portrait of the late President of Venezuela, Hugo Chávez. During the Chávez governmemt, Venezuela traded tens of thousands of barrels of oil for military personnel, intelligence and assistance with social programs in order to maintain voter loyalty.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...sJr/0/O/88.jpg

The bartender preparing some of the famous Cuban Mojito's.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...j5z/0/O/89.jpg

We then enjoyed our drinks looking out onto the Malecón at the end of an amazing and very memorable tour!
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...wZj/0/O/90.jpg

I then started the walk back to Old Havana. Local kids playing football at Parque Antonio Maceo.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...RvW/0/O/91.jpg

Playing cards in the street in Centro Havana.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...wqB/0/O/92.jpg

At Paseo de Martí again.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...pSb/0/O/93.jpg

And some more Cuban skaters.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...qKW/0/O/94.jpg

Back in Old Havana where I stopped at a souvenir shop. I had managed to misplace my cap earlier in the day, so bought a Fidel Castro cap instead.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...G26/0/O/95.jpg

For dinner I headed to La Imprenta, a state-run (Habagaunex) restaurant in Old Havana. A very beautiful place situated on top of the ruins of what used to be La Habanera printing house back in the 19th century.

Fried fishcakes to start.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...sWz/0/O/96.jpg

Followed by some tasty pork. Although not exceptional, the food was still very tasty.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...qfX/0/O/97.jpg

And the profiteroles for dessert. The total bill for the three course meal was CUC$16 so very reasonable.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...rG2/0/O/98.jpg

I then headed back to my Airbnb flat for some sleep after a long but eventful and fun day in Havana.


Day 2.

Basilica Menor de San Francisco de Asis, a Catholic church on Plaza de San Francisco in the early morning on day 2.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...xpS/0/O/99.jpg

Today's plan was for a bicycle tour around Havana. The meeting point was all the way in Vedado so I caught a taxi just off the Plaza for the ~6 kilometre ride.

At 8am at Ruta Bikes with our guide for today, Javier. Also on the tour today was Kim from Sweden and Brian from Australia. Kim helped organise bicycle tours for Europeans around the world and was in Cuba to organise one here, and had organised the bicycles through Ruta Bikes. Brian was in Havana for a few days before going on a 10 day cruise around Cuba.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...dP/0/O/100.jpg

The route for today's bike tour was to start off from Ruta Bikes (A) and then travel east through Vedado, Centro Havana (B) and Old Havana to the Ferry Terminal (C) and then catch the ferry over the bay to Casablanca. After visiting Morro Castle we would then bike east to the district of Alamar before heading south to Guanabacoa. After stopping for lunch we would head west back through Regla and then catch the ferry across the bay again back to Old Havana before making our way back to Vedado.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...wf/0/O/101.jpg

Cycling through Centro Havana. The local drivers were quite courteous and forgiving of us errant bicyclists weaving all over the road while taking in the sights. As it was a Saturday too, the traffic was quite light and not too intimidating.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...Ck/0/O/102.jpg

At Terminal de Ferris we caught the ferry over the bay with our bikes.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...rd/0/O/103.jpg

Once back onshore at Casablanca, we cycled up La Cabaña hill to the Christ of Havana Statue. The hands and arms of Christ are placed as if he is blessing Havana across the bay. Javier said that a local joke is that it also looks as if he is holding a cigar in one hand and a mojito in the other.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...KX/0/O/104.jpg

Javier then filled us in on the history of the statue. The statue was carved from blocks of marble imported from Italy and is 20 metres tall and weighs over 300 tons. The statue was was inaugurated on December 24th, 1958, and only fifteen days before Fidel Castro entered Havana during the Cuban Revolution.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...8p/0/O/105.jpg

Looking from the base of the statue over the bay to Old Havana and beyond. On the far right is the former house of Che Guevara, where he lived while he oversaw the revolutionary tribunals and executions of suspected war criminals, political prisoners, and former members of the secret police.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...VX/0/O/106.jpg

At a military museum, where there was the wreckage of a US Air Force U-2 spyplane that was shot down during the [URL="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuban_Missile_Crisis"]Cuban Missile Crisis[a] in the 1960's. The pilot, [URL="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rudolf_Anderson"]Major Rudolf Anderson[a], was the only person killed by enemy fire during the crisis.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...dS/0/O/107.jpg

We then carried on to Morro Castle. Javier gave us some history of the fortress. In 1762, the British besieged El Morro, and captured it after significant barrage from their guns, mortars and howitzers after 3 months during the Battle of Havana.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...7N/0/O/108.jpg

Despite gaining control of Cuba, the British ceded the island back to Spain the following year with the Treaty of Paris in exchange for Florida.

We then cycled back through the streets and then continued east.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...Rw/0/O/109.jpg

Bananas for sale on the roadside.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...kX/0/O/110.jpg

Soviet-era apartment blocks in the district of Alamar, built in the 1970's to ease a severe housing shortage in Havana.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...xZ/0/O/111.jpg

Passing another Lada as we make our way west to the district of Guanabacoa.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...vt/0/O/112.jpg

Escoba.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...Dg/0/O/113.jpg

We then stopped at a small suburban paladar for lunch.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...Zt/0/O/114.jpg

I opted for a ham and pineapple pizza and a can of Cuban coke. The meal was simple but for less than CUC$10 for all four of us it was very reasonable.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...LH/0/O/115.jpg

We then jumped in the saddle again and continued our bike ride through Guanabacoa.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...sd/0/O/116.jpg

La Pastelera.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...kP/0/O/117.jpg

And back in Regla.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...NQ/0/O/118.jpg

It was great to see some of Havana in the eastern districts of the city and away from other tourists.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...Fv/0/O/119.jpg

Back by the bay, looking out to Havana Port.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...VR/0/O/120.jpg

We then caught the ferry at Lanchita de Regla back over to Old Havana.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/CUBA...8C/0/O/121.jpg

Brian navigating the traffic along Calle Simón Bolívar.
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Cycling past the Jardín Botánico Nacional in outer Havana.
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We made it back to Ruta Bikes just after 2:30pm. The six hour bike ride through Havana and around the bay was a great experience and a fun way to see more of Havana outside of the main city. After thanking Javier for the very enjoyable tour, I started the walk east back to Old Havana.

In Parque Wifredo Lam, where there was a wifi hotspot just across the road and lots of Cuban sitting staring at smartphones and laptops. There is no personal home internet connections in Cuba so Cubans must make do with public wifi spots which are accessible by buying hourly access cards.
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At Coppelia, a famous Havana ice cream parlor where a couple of girls are super excited to get some ice cream! Built in 1966, it was designed to resemble a giant flying saucer.
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There were long queues with Cubans waiting to buy some ice cream on the warm Saturday with their hard-earned Cuban pesos (CUP). As a foreigner though I was directed upstairs to an airconditioned room and had a four scoop sundae for a still very reasonable CUC$3.

Coppelia was originally a project led by Fidel Castro himself to introduce his love of dairy products to the Cuban masses. It is one of the largest ice cream parlors in the world and holds up to 1000 guests.
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Azul. I then resumed my walk east.
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Blanco.
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Verde.
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Still life.
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Mercado.
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Vendedor.
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Pasar el rato (hanging out).
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Inside San Cristobal Paladar, a famous restaurant where President Obama once dined when he visited Havana in 2015.
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One of the government run shops in Centro Havana. This shop, ironically called Libre America, had quite a strange and limited selection of goods such as insect repellent, plumbing fittings and poor quality soap.
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Calle Cuba. I then made it back to my Airbnb flat at about 4:30pm and had abit of a rest after the day's 35 kilometre bike ride around the bay and the 6 kilometre walk back to Old Havana.
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At about 6pm I went out for a walk in Old Havana again. People queued up for some fresh hot churro's.
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People enjoying some cervezas in Plaza Vieja.
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At the very festive Bodeguita del medio. The bar is popular with tourists due to a handwritten note purportedly written by Ernest Hemingway that says "My daiquirí in El Floridita and my Mojito in La Bodeguita". The authenticity of the note has been disputed however and Hemingway's visits to La Bodeguita and his fondness for the mojito are supposedly just urban legend.
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And the lively atmosphere at Café Paris.
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It was great to enjoy some of the famous Cuban music from the energetic house band.
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And where I had some simple chicken and rice at the end of another great day in Havana.
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DanielW May 24, 2017 10:08 am


Day 3.

The plan for day three was to do a trip to Viñales, a small town south-west of Havana. Miguel, my tour guide for today, turned up at my Airbnb flat on time just after 7:30am. There were some problems with the car however, so the driver was busy organising a replacement.

While we waited for the new car, we chilled out in Parque Rumiñahui.
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Just after 8am our driver, Marcos, pulled up in a beautiful blue Chevy, ready to begin our trip to Viñales.
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Our drive for today, travelling 179 kilometres south-west to Viñales in north-central Pinar del Río Province.
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Cruising down the National Highway after we leave Havana. I had organised this trip today with Havana Journeys, a tour company that had been recommended to me by ironmanjt.
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The Chevy cruised pretty easily at about 80kph, thanks to the Hyundai diesel engine under the hood. As well as a decent stereo it also had air-conditioning.

Miguel said that classic cars like our Chevy sell for about $30,000 in Cuba. He said that fortunately as the government prohibits their export there is no chance of them being snapped up by foreigners anytime soon.

Passing an old Studebaker.
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Arriving in Pinar del Río Province.
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Taking a break at a rest stop with the Classic Chevy parked next to a modern Chevy SUV and a Chinese-made taxi.
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The 'pregnant' palm trees, also known by the locals as 'Palma barrigona', being carved into seats by a local craftsman.
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I hadn't had breakfast so had a sandwich with an espresso.
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Back on the National Highway again to continue the trip to Viñales. There was minimal traffic on the highway with only a few cars and the odd tour bus.
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We then turned off the National Highway and headed north onto the road to Viñales.
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A tobacco drying barn. Pinar del Río Province produces 70% of Cuba's tobacco crop.
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"Words teach, but examples lead", a quote from Che Guevara on a roadside billboard.
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Horse and cart.
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Getting closer to Viñales we passed one of the limestone mogotes (steep-sided hill) that are prevalent in Viñales Valley. The mogotes can be up to 300 metre tall and make the area popular for rock climbing.
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Parking the Chevy at our first stop, Cueva del Indio (Indian Cave).
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For CUC$5 you could ride a boat on an underground river through an electrically lit cave. The queue was an hour long though and it sounded abit kitschy so we gave it a miss.

Tourists coming out of the cave ride that was described by Lonelyplanet as 'underwhelming'.
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Next stop was Palenque de los Cimarrones. The cave was used by escaped slaves as a hideout in the 1800's.
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Some drums and fire dance as we exit the cave.
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A recreation of a slave battling with a Spanish Colonialist. Although more for the tour bus crowd, it was quite interesting and worth the CUC$5.
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We then drove on to our next stop, a tobacco farm. On the tank and along with Comrades Fidel, Che and Camilo is also the Granma, an 18 metre yacht that was used to transport 82 fighters from Mexico to Cuba in 1956 for the purpose of overthrowing the Batista regime for the Cuban Revolution.
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Looking over the tobacco fields in Viñales Valley. The fertile soil combined with warm, wet climate make the area ideal for growing tobacco.
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A tobacco farmer pausing for a portrait in the doorway.
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Another portrait with one of the farmers.
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Che.
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We then were given a short tour of the tobacco growing and curing process. Tiny seeds from the tobacco plant.
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Tobacco leaves hung up in the barn to dry, cure and age.
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Air curing and subsequent aging in the tobacco barn allows for the slow oxidation and fermenting in the leaves and which produce various compounds that give the tobacco smoke from Cuban cigars their unique light, mild flavor, and high in nicotine.
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Some of the prepared tobacco seeds.
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The curing and aging process takes between 4 to 8 weeks in the well ventilated barns.
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We were then given a demonstration of how the cigars are hand-rolled.
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Specially selected tobacco leaves are used as the wrapper, and then other leaves are used for the binder and filler inside the cigar.
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Marcos enjoying one of the freshly made cigars.
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The end of the cigar was dipped in honey to add flavour and minimise irritation of the throat. I am not a smoker but the cigar was quite a surprisingly pleasant experience. I briefly contemplated taking up cigar smoking as a new hobby, if not for the unfortunate and unhealthy side-effects.
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My guide, Miguel enjoying a puff on his cigar.
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A roll of 20 handrolled cigars were CUC$60. Considering that branded Cuban cigars were upwards of CUC$10 each it was quite a steal. If they weren't so harmful to your lungs I think I would have definitely considered indulging in a few.
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After the very interesting visit to the tobacco farm, we headed back to Viñales in the Chevy.
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It was about 2pm so we headed to Paladar Casa El Campesino for lunch.
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A cool drink and chips to start.
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Miguel took the opportunity to have the Lobster. He said that seafood was basically unavailable for Cubans and was only sold to tourists.
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While I opted for the roast pork.
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After the decent meal, we headed out to the Chevy again to our next stop. Not before dodging out of the way of this speeding motor vehicle though!
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Beware of schoolchildren and tobacco(?).
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I was keen to see abit more of the countryside, so we stopped at a local family's house on the outskirts of town where they had two horses in the backyard.

I hadn't ridden a horse in over 20 years, but after a quick lesson we were on our way.
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Waving to the local kids.
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Passing a farmer on the dirt track. It was great to see the beautiful landscape on the back of the placid and easy-going horse.
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Riding through a tobacco field. Going down a bit of an incline the horse broke into a canter. Luckily she slowed up though with a gentle pull of the reins.
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And back at the house again, with my 'grinning gringo' pose.
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The two beautiful horses back in the shelter.
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Grandfather obliging for a photo in his straw hat.
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We then continued on to our penultimate stop in Viñales, the Mural de la Prehistoria. Painted in the 1960's, it is described by the LonelyPlanet as either "impressively psychedelic or monumentally horrific". My initial reaction was definitely more of the latter than the former.
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A farmer ploughing his field, ready for the next crop of tobacco.
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It was starting to get late so we started the drive back. On the way out we stopped at a viewpoint looking over the Viñales Valley. Since 1999 the valley has been a UNESCO World Heritage site.
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Marcos also invited me to get a few photo's behind the wheel of his classic Chevy which of course I couldn't say no!
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Getting dark as we make our way back down to the highway to Havana.
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Watching some Cuban-American music video's on the sound system.
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Cruising back into Havana just before 8pm.
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And back in Old Havana after a great and very enjoyable day in Viñales! After thanking both Miguel and Marcos for the memorable trip, I wasn't sure how much to tip them but they were pretty happy when I gave them CUC$10 each.
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I knocked on the door of my Airbnb flat for the next two nights, and the host, Yanira, handed over the keys and gave me a quick tour. It was described on Airbnb as just a studio apartment so was quite surprised how big it was.
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It was just around the corner from my previous Airbnb flat, so again a good location in Old Havana. At $40 per night it was again great value too.
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For dinner I headed down to Plaza Vieja and stopped at Café El Escorial and finished the day with the tasty Bocadito especial and a piece of cake.
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DanielW May 24, 2017 10:08 am


Day 4.

After a good sleep in and a morning jog along the Malecón, I grabbed some freshly made Churros sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon for an unhealthy but tasty breakfast.
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It was my last day in Havana and my last chance to enjoy and see some more of this very unique and beautiful city.

Calle Obispo.
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El Mejor (The Best).
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Queueing at the Cambio for some more pesos.
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Dos perros (two dogs).
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At Plaza de la Catedral, looking west to Havana Cathedral, built in 1727.
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And inside the cathedral. Despite its grandiose exterior, the inside is relatively simple and even austere. Although originally very ornate, it was cleansed of excess ornamentation in the 19th century.
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The flag of Cuba painted on a wall.
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I then walked to the corner of Calle Obispo and Avenida de Bélgica to the famous El Floridita, a historic restaurant and cocktail bar in Old Havana. Originally opened in 1817 as La Piña de Plata (The Silver Pineapple), almost 100 years later it became a favourite of American expats in Havana, and hence the name was changed to 'little Florida'.
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A cantinero (bartender) named Constante Ribalaigua at El Floridita invented the frozen daiquirí soon after WW1, and hence the bar's motto la cuna del daiquiri (the cradle of the daiquiri).
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In the corner and at the end of the bar was a life-size bronze statue of Hemingway, a former famous regular at the bar.
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Daiquirís by the dozen.
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I opted for the Papa Hemingway special, a daiquirí made with grapefruit juice. Legend has it that Hemingway's record at El Floridita was 13 doubles in one sitting!
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After the refreshingly cool daiquirí I continued my wander through Old Havana.

Hombre, cigarro y perro.
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Taxi.
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Bel Air.
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Casa El Remanso.
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Overoles.
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Santa Clara.
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Football.
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It was after 2pm and I was hungry for some lunch so headed to Paladar Los Mercaderes, one of the better restaurants in Old Havana.
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Situated up on the first floor, it had a great view of the cobbled streets below.
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For the starter I had the day's special, lobster taco's. Super tasty!
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And for the main I had the Lomo de Pescado (fish loin in white wine, spices and light lemon cream) along with some moros y cristanos (black beans and rice). My most expensive meal in Cuba at CUC$43, but definitely well worth it.
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A row of classic cars next to Parque Céspedes.
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Handmade in Cuba. Some fridge magnets for home for CUC$3 for any five.
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Teléfono público.
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Diógenes y la luz at Factoría Habana, an art gallery in Old Havana. In the centre was a slightly unusual art installation consisting of a long row of crushed cans of tuKola (Cuban coke).
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After a rest back at my Airbnb flat, I went out again for an evening stroll.

A Soviet era ZiL limousine.
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Dusk in beautiful Plaza Vieja.
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For my last dinner in Havana I headed to Café Lamparilla and had the chicken.
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And for dessert I went to Museo del Chocolate on Calle Amargura for a sweet dose of Cuba's finest at the end of day 4.
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Day 5.

In the morning I went out for a last run through Havana. A selfie by the Canal de Entrada.
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A blast of seaspray at the Malecón.
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And some locals casting for fish in the morning sun.
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A Dutch flagged oil tanker coming into port and about to pass by Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro.
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After a quick shower and packing my suitcase, I went out for one last walk through Old Havana.
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And grabbed a Caffè Americano (yes, they still apparently call them that in Communist Cuba) at Café Havana.
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Yanira came to the Airbnb just before 10am to collect the keys and organised a taxi for me to the airport to catch my 12:50pm flight.

Just outside Terminal 3 at José Martí International Airport where I spotted a classic Ford Thunderbird with a new dashboard completely carved out of wood! You just had to admire the Cuban ingenuity.
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About to check-in for my flight on Delta Air lines to New York. The one-way flight from Havana to JFK was a very reasonable $142. My ticket stated that I had to pay $25 to check my suitcase, but luckily I didn't have to pay anything at check-in though.
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Airside with my boarding pass after making it through immigration and security.
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And about to board the Delta A319 after an amazing and incredible trip to Cuba!
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phranktzi May 24, 2017 1:10 pm

Thanks for sharing such a wonderful trip.

londonfog May 24, 2017 3:17 pm

Thank you for taking us along! Very interesting

Madone59 May 24, 2017 3:24 pm

Absolutely fantastic photos DanielW. The shots of the cars with all the colors are just great! It was my pleasure to show you around San Diego a little bit, as well as introduce you to the poor mans lobster - Monkfish - though lets be honest about it, anything is good when the restaurant gives you melted butter to pour over it :) :)

dinanm3atl May 24, 2017 7:07 pm

Pretty awesome. Definitely someplace I want to visit!

And San Diego's "California Burrito" is pure heaven.

757 May 24, 2017 8:14 pm

Another amazing report. Great photos from Cuba - It looks like you had a good trip!

Thank you for sharing.

enviroian May 24, 2017 8:26 pm

Thank you for your report Daniel. I really enjoyed reading it.

Is chicken and rice a pretty staple dish there? I'm not complaining at all ..it looks delicious.

Since your in Cuba and you couldn't order a "cuban sandwich" did you just order a sandwich? lol

apodo77 May 24, 2017 8:55 pm

Awesome trip report as always.

Pictures make me feel like I am on the journey with you.

zip10001 May 24, 2017 8:58 pm

Well done
 
Another fantastic trip report DanielW
Very impressed by the pictures of 'every day Cuban people' and your down-to-earth attitude riding a horse to a random place!
Hat-off to you

supermintyfresh May 24, 2017 10:26 pm

Fantastic TR as always with amazing photos & commentary ^. Not sure if you've mentioned this before, but what camera/lens set up do you use? Do you edit them in Lightroom? The low light photos seem great.

Gig103 May 24, 2017 11:32 pm


Originally Posted by supermintyfresh (Post 28356514)
Fantastic TR as always with amazing photos & commentary ^. Not sure if you've mentioned this before, but what camera/lens set up do you use? Do you edit them in Lightroom? The low light photos seem great.

I was wondering about the equipment myself and was hoping there was EXIF data still embedded in some of the images. There was not.

DanielW May 24, 2017 11:36 pm


Originally Posted by phranktzi (Post 28354721)
Thanks for sharing such a wonderful trip.

Thanks, phranktzi, yes a very unique and interesting part of the world to spend a few days.

Originally Posted by londonfog (Post 28355192)
Thank you for taking us along! Very interesting

Cheers, londonfog:). I was a little wary with all the hype about Cuba being an interesting place to visit, but it certainly lived up to it!

Originally Posted by Madone59 (Post 28355221)
Absolutely fantastic photos DanielW. The shots of the cars with all the colors are just great! It was my pleasure to show you around San Diego a little bit, as well as introduce you to the poor mans lobster - Monkfish - though lets be honest about it, anything is good when the restaurant gives you melted butter to pour over it :) :)

Many thanks, Madone59:). All the Classic American cars were so very beautiful and photogenic, was hard to get over how common they were, both to shuttle around tourists and ordinary Cubans getting from A to B. And yes, the Monkfish was definitely mouth wateringly good, especially with all the melted butter!

Originally Posted by dinanm3atl (Post 28355947)
Pretty awesome. Definitely someplace I want to visit!
And San Diego's "California Burrito" is pure heaven.

Thank you, dinanm3atl, yes I was hungry for a decent burrito after my trip a to Mexico the previous week:).

Originally Posted by 757 (Post 28356131)
Another amazing report. Great photos from Cuba - It looks like you had a good trip!
Thank you for sharing.

Thanks, 757:). Yes, the trip was a good mix of taking it easy and enjoying a new part of the world.

Originally Posted by enviroian (Post 28356172)
Thank you for your report Daniel. I really enjoyed reading it.
Is chicken and rice a pretty staple dish there? I'm not complaining at all ..it looks delicious.
Since your in Cuba and you couldn't order a "cuban sandwich" did you just order a sandwich? lol

Cheers, enviroian:). Yes, chicken and rice was very common there, and I think all other Latin America too?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arroz_con_pollo
I think the Cuban sandwich was invented in Miami, so not sure if it is the same on the mainland:)?

Originally Posted by apodo77 (Post 28356268)
Awesome trip report as always.
Pictures make me feel like I am on the journey with you.

Thank you, apodo77, glad to 'take you along' for the trip:).

Originally Posted by zip10001 (Post 28356276)
Another fantastic trip report DanielW
Very impressed by the pictures of 'every day Cuban people' and your down-to-earth attitude riding a horse to a random place!
Hat-off to you

Many thanks, zip10001:). Yes, the Cuban people were very photogenic, and luckily no too fussed with me pointing the camera in their direction. My last time on a horse I was thrown off, but luckily I managed to stay on this time!

Originally Posted by supermintyfresh (Post 28356514)
Fantastic TR as always with amazing photos & commentary ^. Not sure if you've mentioned this before, but what camera/lens set up do you use? Do you edit them in Lightroom? The low light photos seem great.

Thank you, supermintyfresh:). These photo's are just with my Canon 5D4, along with the 16-35 f2.8 III, 35 f1.4 II and 50 f1.2 lenses.

DanielW May 24, 2017 11:37 pm


Originally Posted by Gig103 (Post 28356654)
I was wondering about the equipment myself and was hoping there was EXIF data still embedded in some of the images. There was not.

Just my trusty Canon 5D4, along with the 16-35 f2.8 III for most of the shots, and two primes, the 35 f1.4 II and 50 f1.2 lenses.

kpc May 25, 2017 12:04 am

Amazing photography....brings back fond memories of my trip to Habana in 2014!

JohnRain May 25, 2017 12:45 am

Fantastic pics of Cuban daily life, DanielW! ^
And of course the grinning gringo with cigar on the horse... priceless :D

CurbedEnthusiasm May 25, 2017 5:38 am

Great trip report! Can you clarify what, if any, pre-clearance do you have to get from the government before you go visit? Can anybody book a flight and go as a tourist now? I thought in years past you needed clearance from perhaps the Dept. of Treasury, but I may be mistaken.

ChiefNWA May 25, 2017 7:02 am

Fantastic pictures once again! Looks like Vinales is a decent place to go, I had read mixed reviews on whether it's worth going out there or not. I'll have to add it to the list for next time. You should have considered Trinidad as well, or maybe for your next time in Cuba. Pretty easy to get to from Cienfuegos.

Also, the Jetblue plane in FLL is actually an A321. :p

ChiefNWA May 25, 2017 7:09 am


Originally Posted by CurbedEnthusiasm (Post 28357353)
Great trip report! Can you clarify what, if any, pre-clearance do you have to get from the government before you go visit? Can anybody book a flight and go as a tourist now? I thought in years past you needed clearance from perhaps the Dept. of Treasury, but I may be mistaken.

I went in Feb as a US citizen. When you book the flight the airline will have you select one of twelve reasons to go. For my trip, I went with people to people/educational. They say to maintain a full schedule of meaningful interactions with the Cuban people and to maintain documents for five years, but decipher that however you wish.

gaobest May 25, 2017 8:07 am

Great TR - love the pictures! Thanks so much!

BostonRobin May 25, 2017 8:57 am

Thanks for such an informative and entertaining TR, Daniel! I feel like I've been there now, minus the rum and cigar buzz :D

broenor May 25, 2017 11:34 am

Fantastic photos! (as always...:-))

nequine May 25, 2017 11:27 pm

Thanks for another wonderful trip report from you. :)

Somehow you manage to capture the spirit of a city/country more than any official guide I have ever read!

alanslegal May 25, 2017 11:49 pm

Thanks for the report, and excellent photography!

blueferrari May 26, 2017 1:34 am

Cuban people is fantastically photogenic. Great photos as usual!


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