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Day 1. Catching a late night taxi on Sheik Zayed Road on my way to Dubai International Airport. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...FGW/0/O/01.jpg And outside Terminal 2, ready to catch my 1:20am Flydubai flight. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...8pg/0/O/02.jpg This morning's flight was a simple return flight from Dubai to Tbilisi (DXB-TBS) http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...3df/0/O/03.gif I hadn't eaten dinner so grabbed some food at the Marhaba lounge. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...LBd/0/O/04.jpg And boarding on time via the back stairs. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...cnV/0/O/05.jpg As it was a red-eye flight, I pulled out my earplugs and eyemask to get some sleep on the ~3 hour flight. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...55v/0/O/06.jpg As we approached Tbilisi, the pilot announced that there was bad weather on the ground and that we would head up to 22,000 feet and go into a holding pattern and wait it out. It was only ~3 months after Flydubai Flight 981, which only a few hundred miles away in Rostov-on-Don, similarly went into a holding pattern due to early morning bad weather before crashing at high speed due to pilot error after a subsequent aborted attempt at landing. The odds of it happening a second time for our flight were infinitesimal, but I couldn't help but feel a little paranoid. After ~90 minutes of circling above Tbilisi though, the weather eased abit, and we landed with no issues and along with plenty of applause from all the passengers. With my visa on arrival. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...K9B/0/O/07.jpg After immigration I collected my rental car for the next two days, a white Hyundai Elantra. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...LV7/0/O/08.jpg This morning's plan was to intially head east, take the Tbilisi bypass road, and then drive north on the Georgian Military Road and on to the town of Stepantsminda, ~10 kilometres from the border of Russia. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...zLD/0/O/09.jpg On the bypass road. Although not perfect, the road was definitely in alot better condition than when I had driven across Armenia. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...m4R/0/O/10.jpg And on the Georgian Military Road and on to Stepantsminda. The Georgian Military Road heads due north of Tbilisi and runs up to the border of Russia and over to the city of Vladikavkaz. The route has been known since 'antiquity', and was mentioned in the Roman empire era Geographica. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...jDb/0/O/11.jpg After driving north for ~ 60 kilometres, I stopped to take in the view at Ananuri. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Rjw/0/O/12.jpg Ananuri is a castle complex, with two churches situated within its walls, the early 17th century older Church of the Virgin, and a larger Church of the Assumption (Ghvtismshobeli), built in 1689. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...tcV/0/O/13.jpg I also grabbed a cappuccino to help shake off the jetlag. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...NDP/0/O/14.jpg A bit of a moving road block as I continued the journey north. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...8Xx/0/O/15.jpg Looking down at a small village beside the Tetri Aragvi River. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...tzd/0/O/16.jpg More sheep with snow-capped mountains in the background. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...f8t/0/O/17.jpg At 2,395 metres elevation in the Jvari Pass. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...6Sf/0/O/18.jpg As I got near Stepantsminda and close to the border with Russia there was a long queue of freight trucks. In 2013 Russia reopened its border with Georgia, and the road provides an important transport route for trucks linking Armenia and Russia. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...wS8/0/O/19.jpg The town of Kvesheti with the 4,451 metre tall Mount Shani in the distance. The peak of Mount Shani is the border between Russia and Georgia. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...F9j/0/O/20.jpg As I stopped frequently to take photos on the way, I got to Stepantsminda just before 11am. In the centre of town there was a small army of 4WD's, waiting to take people up to the Gergeti Trinity Church, just visible on the hill on the upper-left. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Mhv/0/O/21.jpg Although it was only 11am, as I hadn't had any breakfast, I went to Cafe 5047m for my first taste of Georgian cuisine and had the very tasty and very filling Megruli Khachapuri. Khachapuri is traditional Georgian bread, filled with cheese. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...vJT/0/O/22.jpg I then checked into my room for the night at Anano's Guesthouse. With a shared bathroom but only $25 a night and clean and tidy so was very reasonable. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...kZj/0/O/23.jpg The view looking east from my window with the beautiful mountains in the background. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...HT4/0/O/24.jpg And the view from the balcony looking west. Gergeti Trinity Church is just visible in the centre on the hill in the distance. The 5,047 metre tall Mount Kazbek is unfortunately hidden in the clouds however. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...2j6/0/O/25.jpg After a bit of a rest at the guesthouse, I headed across the Terek River and started the ascent to Gergeti Trinity Church. The elevation of Stepantsminda was 1,740 metres and the Church was at 2,170 metres so ~430 vertical metres to climb up. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...SCb/0/O/26.jpg The walking route up was more of a goat track and pretty slippery in the rain. The alternative was to walk up the muddy and unsealed road but that was ~ 6 kilometres long and you had to dodge 4WD's ferrying up the people who had opted for a less strenuous trip up to the Church. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...4Tx/0/O/27.jpg And finally at the 14th century Gergeti Trinity Church. The rain had begun to fall quite heavily so I went inside for shelter and to see the beautiful interior. Unfortunately no photo's were allowed inside however. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...csJ/0/O/28.jpg On my way back down the rain had eased up a bit but was still falling steadily. I almost slipped a few times but managed to catch myself. Looking across to the mountains and the town of Stepantsminda in the distance. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...HN8/0/O/29.jpg An old Soviet-era GAZ-21 and a brood of chickens looking for something or someone to peck. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...9tJ/0/O/30.jpg And back to Anano's Guesthouse where I crashed out to recover from the redeye flight, morning drive and big afternoon climb up the hill. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...wK5/0/O/31.jpg After a decent nap I headed back to the centre of Stepantsminda in search of some dinner at about 7pm. A couple of cows in someone's backyard. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...sVj/0/O/32.jpg Drinking some Kazbegi lemonade at Restaurant Khevi. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...FDN/0/O/33.jpg And for my second dose of Georgian cuisine for the day, enjoying some beef Khinkali (dumplings) and the Chakapuli (lamb stew). Very tasty and a great way to finish my first day in Georgia. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Kfk/0/O/34.jpg Day 2. The view from my window of the top of Mount Shani with the sun rising just behind on the Russian side of the mountain. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...WgF/0/O/35.jpg My breakfast at the guesthouse for 10 lari (~$4.30). Quite a spread and I struggled to eat half of it! http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Nq4/0/O/36.jpg I then packed up for the drive back south. The clouds had cleared, with Mount Kazbek, a dormant volcano, now visible. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...bXR/0/O/37.jpg Today's plan was to head back on the Georgian Military Road and then head west to the city of Gori on the E60 highway before backtracking to Mtskheta and then heading down back to Tbilisi. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Trg/0/O/38.jpg Another moving road block on the road just out of Stepantsminda. As the horses slowly walked onto the other side of the road, an old Soviet-era car travelling quite fast in the opposite direction slammed on his brakes, with a screeching of tyres accompanied by a small cloud of white smoke. Luckily he stopped in time though and the horses calmly walked around him and continued on their way. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...bKn/0/O/39.jpg Driving through a mountain-side avalanche gallery. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...K3v/0/O/40.jpg And driving west on the E60 highway on the way to Gori. It was interesting seeing signs to the city of Sokhumi, the capital of Abkhazia, a separatist region within Georgia whose independence is only recognised by Russia, Nicaragua, Venezuela and Nauru. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...xbs/0/O/41.jpg A statue of Stalin at the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori. Stalin, an ethnic Georgian, and was born in Gori as Joseph Jughashvili in 1878 when Georgia was part of the Russian Empire. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...JMX/0/O/42.jpg A painting of a young Stalin at age 23. An English language tour was just starting so I tagged along. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Mgd/0/O/43.jpg A mural of Lenin and Stalin http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...WbW/0/O/44.jpg A display on Stalin's rule during World War II. Stalin was the leader of the Soviet Union from the mid-1920s until his death in 1953. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...8Wb/0/O/45.jpg The ID card of Yakov Dzhugashvili, the eldest of Joseph Stalin's three children. Dzhugashvili was an artillery officer in the Red Army and was captured by the Germans in July 1941. The Germans later offered to exchange him for a high-ranking officer, but Stalin refused, allegedly saying, "I will not trade a Marshal for a Lieutenant". http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...jJt/0/O/46.jpg A rare, un-retouched photo of Stalin published by an American magazine. Our guide said that whenever his photo was published by the Soviets, his skin would appear smooth and unblemished. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Mnh/0/O/47.jpg One of the twelve copies of the death mask of Stalin taken shortly after his death. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...S9p/0/O/48.jpg A reconstruction of the offices of the secret police during Soviet times, when people were arrested and summarily executed for various activities. Historians have estimated that the total number of victims killed under Stalin's regime as ranging from approximately 4 million to nearly 10 million, not including those who died in famines. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...TCx/0/O/49.jpg A statue of Stalin outside with roses at his feet. A 2013 survey showed that 45% of Georgians had a positive attitude to Stalin. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...wX7/0/O/50.jpg Stalin's personal armour plated railway carriage he used to travel around in (as he was supposedly afraid of flying). It weighed 83 tons and was used by Stalin to travel to the Yalta Conference and the Tehran Conference. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...wN3/0/O/51.jpg His personal room inside. The train carriage also featured an early rudimentary air conditioning system. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...HjK/0/O/52.jpg After a very interesting visit to the museum, I had some pork mtsvadi with bread for lunch at a local restaurant. 11 lari or ~$5 total and very reasonable. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...mpk/0/O/53.jpg Back on the E60 highway to Mtskheta and Tbilisi. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...tPm/0/O/54.jpg At the 11th century Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta. Mtskheta was founded in the 5th century BC and was the capital of the Georgian Kingdom of Iberia from the 3rd century BC to the 5th century AD. The various historical monuments of Mtskheta are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...77p/0/O/55.jpg The Cathedral was originally built in the 4th century and was invaded at various times by the Arabs, Persians, Timur and the Soviets. The church is surrounded by a defensive wall and the top storey was designed for military purposes and has gun emplacements. A statue of Jesus Christ on the cross. The robe of Jesus is said to have been buried under a monument inside the church. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...zN8/0/O/56.jpg After a leisurely walk around the streets of Mtskheta surrounding the Cathedral, I stopped at local café for an afternoon fix of caffeine http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...JNQ/0/O/57.jpg And then headed south again for the short drive to Tbilisi. Refuelling up the car in Tbilisi before dropping it off back at the local Hertz agency. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...TRX/0/O/58.jpg And my room and very pinksheets for the next two nights in Tbilisi at Hotel Sanapiro. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...N8t/0/O/59.jpg After checking into my hotel, I went for a late afternoon walk through the streets of Tbilisi. Lighting up. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...SBK/0/O/60.jpg Gesture. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Jwf/0/O/61.jpg ნინო (Nino) http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...kjs/0/O/62.jpg Hat & tie. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...V3z/0/O/63.jpg Al Fresco. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...2WT/0/O/64.jpg Pink. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...nTc/0/O/65.jpg Smoke. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...hKJ/0/O/66.jpg Mkhedruli. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Mp4/0/O/67.jpg Orthodox. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...tZL/0/O/68.jpg For dinner I headed to a Georgian restaurant called Samikitno and had some tasty chicken and potato accompanied by a glass of Georgian white wine. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...k6T/0/O/69.jpg Freedom Square Underpass. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...tx4/0/O/70.jpg Rustaveli Avenue. The central avenue in Tbilisi and named after the Georgian poet, Shota Rustaveli. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...HmH/0/O/71.jpg After a relaxing stroll through the city I headed back to the hotel after the end of a long day. |
Day 3. After a morning run along the Mtkvari River I had some breakfast at the hotel. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...KFK/0/O/72.jpg My guidebook had a walking tour through Tbilisi so I walked up Rustaveli Avenue to the Shota Rustaveli monument for the starting point. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Bjr/0/O/73.jpg Looking across to the Georgian National Academy of Sciences. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...wSw/0/O/74.jpg I continued my walk down Rustaveli Avenue. A Lada whizzing past the Georgian National Opera Theater. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...w2M/0/O/75.jpg The Old Georgian Parliament building. In 2012 the government had moved to a new parliament building in the city of Kutaisi, 231 kilometres west of Tbilisi. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...q98/0/O/76.jpg Magazines. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...zJn/0/O/77.jpg Freedom Square. In the middle is the Freedom Monument with a golden statue of St. George slaying a dragon on top. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...smn/0/O/78.jpg I then deviated from the walking tour and walked up to the funicular station for a ride up to the Mtatsminda plateau that overlooks the city. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...tJZ/0/O/79.jpg And looking down on Tbilisi from the amazing view from the top. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Kf5/0/O/80.jpg Top left is the Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi, in the middle is the Presidential Palace and the Bridge of Peace, and on the bottom-right is the golden statue of St. George in Freedom Square. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Jht/0/O/81.jpg Looking up at the 274.5 metre tall Tbilisi TV Broadcasting Tower. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...6SH/0/O/82.jpg I then caught the funicular back down and walked down into Old Tbilisi. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...jkm/0/O/83.jpg Lots of people taking photo's of the leaning clock tower in the Old Town. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...nMn/0/O/84.jpg At the vegan Kiwi Café in the Old Town which was recently attacked by sausage-wielding extremists!!! http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...qHB/0/O/85.jpg I was too early to try their first fresh batch of hummus for the day so settled for an expresso and a vegan chocolate brownie. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...wzS/0/O/86.jpg Three ladies. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...XNh/0/O/87.jpg The Bridge of Peace, a pedestrian-only bridge over the Mtkvari River. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...z7R/0/O/88.jpg According to the Guardian newspaper, due to the bridges unusual shape, it is also referred to as the 'Always Ultra'. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Kz9/0/O/89.jpg I then walked over to Rike Park and caught the cable car over the Mtkvari River and Old Town up to Narikala Fortress. The view of the Bridge Of Peace on the way. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...7cs/0/O/90.jpg The view up by the fortress of the city below. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...K6K/0/O/92.jpg The St Nicholas church within Narikala, built in 1997 after fire destroyed the original 13th-century church. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...BfB/0/O/93.jpg A statue of the former President of Azerbaijan, Heydar Aliyev, in a park in the Old Town named after him. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...4xz/0/O/94.jpg After all the walking I then retreated inside a local restaurant for a cool local beer and some very filling Khinkali for a late afternoon lunch. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...NKt/0/O/95.jpg Heading underground to catch the metro. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...KZm/0/O/96.jpg The metro was similar to other ex-Soviet cities I had visited (Kiev, Yerevan, Tashkent, Minsk etc.). http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...t4G/0/O/97.jpg The metro first opened in 1966 and consists of just two lines. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...XFg/0/O/98.jpg After getting off at Freedom Square Station, I walked the short distance to the Museum of Soviet Occupation. Some Red Army uniforms and weapons on display. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...2bm/0/O/99.jpg Flags of the Democratic Republic of Georgia during the brief period between 1918 when Georgia declared independence from the Russian Empire and 1921 when the Russian Red Army invaded and Georgia became part of the U.S.S.R. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...kj/0/O/100.jpg The museum opened in 2006, a time of strained relations between Russia and Georgia due to NATO agreeing to hold talks on closer relations with Georgia and only 2 years before the 2008 Russo-Georgian War. Russian President Vladimir Putin at the time pointed out that many of the leading Soviet leaders, such as Stalin, came from Georgia. The sardonic response from the Georgian President at the time, Mikheil Saakashvili, was supposedly to offer funds to Russia to open a Museum of the Georgian Occupation in Moscow. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...nP/0/O/101.jpg A photograph of Georgian rebels who were slaughtered during the 1921 invasion by the Russian Red Army. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...6V/0/O/102.jpg A still from a video showing a soldier holding the flag of Abkhazia when the Russians invaded again during the 2008 Russo-Georgian War. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...qQ/0/O/103.jpg I then walked down to the Saturday Dry Bridge Flea Market. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Zs/0/O/104.jpg Old Russian film cameras for sale. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...kS/0/O/105.jpg There were some more modern cameras for sale too, such as this Leica M8. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...WM/0/O/106.jpg Quite an interesting mix of items for sale. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...k6/0/O/107.jpg Hip flask, medals, sunglasses and Stalin. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Lh/0/O/108.jpg And a golden bust in slightly used condition. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...6F/0/O/109.jpg After resting up at the hotel for a bit, I headed out to dinner to Burger House. They had a couple of rows of meat grinders on the wall, quite a contrast from the vegan Kiwi Café I had visited earlier in the day! http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Km/0/O/110.jpg I settled on the pork kimchi burger with fries and a coke. Very tasty! http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Nb/0/O/111.jpg I then went for a last evening stroll through Tbilisi before heading back to my hotel to pack for my early morning departure. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...s4/0/O/112.jpg Day 4. After getting up at an uncivil hour, I caught a taxi for the ~20 minute ride to Tbilisi International Airport. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...8g/0/O/113.jpg After picking up my boarding pass and going air-side, I spent my last few lari on some Georgian chocolate to take home. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...Qm/0/O/114.jpg And about to board the Flydubai 737 after a great three days in Georgia! http://www.dsw-photo.com/Photos/GRG/...3b/0/O/115.jpg |
Nice TR, as always!
Thats a gnarly line of trucks. Did you have to wait for that to clear or could you bypass them? |
Originally Posted by daKav
(Post 26959618)
Nice TR, as always!
Thats a gnarly line of trucks. Did you have to wait for that to clear or could you bypass them? |
Great report, thanks Daniel. The Caucasus looks like a great part of the world, perhaps even worth those hideous redeye flights! ;)
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Loved the contrast between town and country in this report. As always your portrait photos are excellent. The one of the three ladies really caught my eye.
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OMG thank you what a beautiful report visiting such an intriguing city. Cheers ^
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Fascinating, particularly as we have organized a trip in 2017 that has the same two days outside Tbilisi. Mind you, I don't plan the hike up to the church. And Design Hotels, associated with Starwood, has a hotel in Stepantsminda. Were the dumplings as tasty as they looked?
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Originally Posted by mad_atta
(Post 26960253)
Great report, thanks Daniel. The Caucasus looks like a great part of the world, perhaps even worth those hideous redeye flights! ;)
Originally Posted by Spymon
(Post 26960306)
Loved the contrast between town and country in this report. As always your portrait photos are excellent. The one of the three ladies really caught my eye.
Originally Posted by djjaguar64
(Post 26960450)
OMG thank you what a beautiful report visiting such an intriguing city. Cheers ^
Originally Posted by SanDiego1K
(Post 26960642)
Fascinating, particularly as we have organized a trip in 2017 that has the same two days outside Tbilisi. Mind you, I don't plan the hike up to the church. And Design Hotels, associated with Starwood, has a hotel in Stepantsminda. Were the dumplings as tasty as they looked?
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Amazing trip report. Hell, all of yours are. Have you ever thought of approaching a publisher? These trips need to be bounded and on the shelf.
Very impressed sir. |
Great report again. A lot of tasty food pictures--Georgian cuisine is fantastic. But I particularly like drinks: Borjomi water and Tarhun.
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Another interesting report and, as expected, excellent photos. Thanks for sharing your reports.
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Another great report Daniel, you are an inspiration.
This one is particularly well timed. I am planning on spending a few days in Tbilisi and taking a trip to the Gergeti Trinity Church myself in just a few weeks. I appreciate the early reconnaissance, and if you have any more specific recommendations or tips, I'd love to hear them. Thank you again for putting this report together. Your images are striking, as always. |
Great report as always! Looks a bit more modern than our visit to the Caucasus in 2005 (http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-...-mtskheta.html). The Bridge of Peace and funicular weren't there then. We actually went up to the Russian border (it was closed to foreigners then) and got yelled at by the Georgian soldiers.
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Stalin seems to be in Georgia like Benito Mussolini in parts of Italy. Incomprehensible.....
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Hi Daniel,
Around a month back one of my friend shared the FT link of your thread to the Front lines against ISIS, that was the first trip report I read of yours. I was so impressed with your photos and narration that I ended up reading all your trip reports in a few days!!! Another lovely trip report to Georgia you have written. I really like your food photos literally of all the 3 meals you post! So if you are travelling for 3 days I can expect 9 meal photos. I see there is no trip to India you have undertaken, I think you did visit sometime but there is no trip report listed. As I am from India I hope you soon plan a trip here as India is a diverse country with an amazing culture. You being a Foodie I am sure you won't be disappointed! Way to go! |
Originally Posted by enviroian
(Post 26961116)
Amazing trip report. Hell, all of yours are. Have you ever thought of approaching a publisher? These trips need to be bounded and on the shelf.
Very impressed sir.
Originally Posted by hirohito888
(Post 26961308)
Great report again. A lot of tasty food pictures--Georgian cuisine is fantastic. But I particularly like drinks: Borjomi water and Tarhun.
Originally Posted by halfcape
(Post 26962108)
Another interesting report and, as expected, excellent photos. Thanks for sharing your reports.
Originally Posted by SMFlagg
(Post 26962431)
Another great report Daniel, you are an inspiration.
This one is particularly well timed. I am planning on spending a few days in Tbilisi and taking a trip to the Gergeti Trinity Church myself in just a few weeks. I appreciate the early reconnaissance, and if you have any more specific recommendations or tips, I'd love to hear them. Thank you again for putting this report together. Your images are striking, as always.
Originally Posted by hauteboy
(Post 26962906)
Great report as always! Looks a bit more modern than our visit to the Caucasus in 2005 (http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-...-mtskheta.html). The Bridge of Peace and funicular weren't there then. We actually went up to the Russian border (it was closed to foreigners then) and got yelled at by the Georgian soldiers.
Originally Posted by offerendum
(Post 26963865)
Stalin seems to be in Georgia like Benito Mussolini in parts of Italy. Incomprehensible.....
Originally Posted by SSZ
(Post 26963961)
Hi Daniel,
Around a month back one of my friend shared the FT link of your thread to the Front lines against ISIS, that was the first trip report I read of yours. I was so impressed with your photos and narration that I ended up reading all your trip reports in a few days!!! Another lovely trip report to Georgia you have written. I really like your food photos literally of all the 3 meals you post! So if you are travelling for 3 days I can expect 9 meal photos. I see there is no trip to India you have undertaken, I think you did visit sometime but there is no trip report listed. As I am from India I hope you soon plan a trip here as India is a diverse country with an amazing culture. You being a Foodie I am sure you won't be disappointed! Way to go! |
fantastic report! those photos simply made me want to head back to Georgia again.
really stunning, thanks for sharing! |
Thank you again Daniel. Such a great TR, and amazing photos!
I have Georgia in a special place in memory - hospitable people, friendly and stunning scenery. The few business trips I made there were all great and that bread - OMG, I could eat that every day. (Cannot believe that I just used OMG)......... |
Fantastic TR - I really want to go there now! How much English was spoken? Was it difficult to communicate?
Were directions in the hire car difficult? Did you have a working sat navigation? Was 3 days about the right amount of time there? I'm guessing costs everywhere were pretty reasonable? |
Originally Posted by LehBra
(Post 26965459)
fantastic report! those photos simply made me want to head back to Georgia again.
really stunning, thanks for sharing!
Originally Posted by roadwarrier
(Post 26965630)
Thank you again Daniel. Such a great TR, and amazing photos!
I have Georgia in a special place in memory - hospitable people, friendly and stunning scenery. The few business trips I made there were all great and that bread - OMG, I could eat that every day. (Cannot believe that I just used OMG)......... Just got back from Sofia and they had some very tasty bread too, an amazing smell permeating through the streets in the morning when we went searching for breakfast:).
Originally Posted by smit0847
(Post 26966578)
Fantastic TR - I really want to go there now! How much English was spoken? Was it difficult to communicate?
Were directions in the hire car difficult? Did you have a working sat navigation? Was 3 days about the right amount of time there? I'm guessing costs everywhere were pretty reasonable? I used the GPS app (Osmand+) on my phone for navigating. Just downloaded Georgia before I left so it would work offline. I tried to pack as much as possible in my three days so did the highlights that most other travelers do. If you wanted to spend more time there though there is other places to visit and things to do (Batumi, Abkhazia etc.). Prices were reasonable. The beer and Khinkali/dumplings was $6. Espresso and brownie was $2.40. 30 cents to ride the metro. $53 per night including breakfast for my hotel in Tbilisi. |
Originally Posted by offerendum
(Post 26963865)
Stalin seems to be in Georgia like Benito Mussolini in parts of Italy. Incomprehensible.....
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another great report, yours are always a great read DanielW
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Originally Posted by aidy
(Post 26974596)
another great report, yours are always a great read DanielW
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Originally Posted by Forrest Bump
(Post 26970396)
You clearly don't know what are you talking about sir.
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Good stuff, we must have been there around the same time (I was there a bit over a month ago). Good call on renting a car, I did everything with public transport and despite having more time than you I never left Tbilisi (other than day trips to Gori, Mksheta, Davit Gareji etc). Of course your photos are much better than mine, but that's a given :) if you have more time, Armenia has some great monasteries and landscapes as well. Azerbaijan I was less impressed with.
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Fantastic report as usual! It's always such a pleasure to read your trip reports, Daniel. The gorgeous photos and informative writing really bring these fascinating destinations to life. Keep 'me coming!
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Originally Posted by mpkz
(Post 26993659)
Good stuff, we must have been there around the same time (I was there a bit over a month ago). Good call on renting a car, I did everything with public transport and despite having more time than you I never left Tbilisi (other than day trips to Gori, Mksheta, Davit Gareji etc). Of course your photos are much better than mine, but that's a given :) if you have more time, Armenia has some great monasteries and landscapes as well. Azerbaijan I was less impressed with.
Originally Posted by capedreamer
(Post 26996593)
Fantastic report as usual! It's always such a pleasure to read your trip reports, Daniel. The gorgeous photos and informative writing really bring these fascinating destinations to life. Keep 'me coming!
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Originally Posted by DanielW
(Post 26979881)
Thank you, aidy:). Just sorting out what I need to pack for my next trip, camping on the ice sheet in Greenland:).
I'm insanely jealous of your Greenland voyage, but look forward to all the tips! |
The Hemingway of trip reports. Thanks for this one!
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Fantastic trip report as always Daniel! I'm headed to Russia in a few days, but looks like I need to add Georgia to my ever growing list of places I should visit.
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Looks like it was a great trip! After reading this (and seeing some other awesome Georgia photos elsewhere), I ended up finalizing a 4 day trip to Georgia in late October; my itinerary will be pretty similar, except I'll probably go to Gori last since I'm flying into Tbilisi and out of Kutaisi.
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Great stuff! My friends and I also hiked up to the church when we visited Stepantsminda -- or Kazbegi as it was then still known -- in 2005, though we had decidedly better weather. ;) And as luck would have it, we visited on the church's festival day, so practically the entire town was up there with us. One of my fondest memories.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8742/2...f9ba8a_c_d.jpg |
Originally Posted by DanielW
(Post 26997023)
Thanks, mpkz:). Yes, I was tossing up getting a marshrutka up to Stepantsminda or getting a a car, but the earliest marshrutka wasn't until 9am and of course it wouldn't have been possible to stop for photo's on the way. Yes, will have to head back to Armenia and hire the Lada again too:). My one night in Yerevan after Karabakh didn't leave enough time to see some of the other sights that I wanted to see.
Many thanks, capedreamer:). A few more trips planned for this year. Hopefully crack a century of countries visited too:). |
Originally Posted by RandomBaritone
(Post 27002989)
Great stuff! My friends and I also hiked up to the church when we visited Stepantsminda -- or Kazbegi as it was then still known -- in 2005, though we had decidedly better weather. ;) And as luck would have it, we visited on the church's festival day, so practically the entire town was up there with us. One of my fondest memories.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8742/2...f9ba8a_c_d.jpg |
Originally Posted by hauteboy
(Post 27003043)
When did you visit in 2005? We were there in Kazbegi July 23rd-24th that year.
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Originally Posted by ironmanjt
(Post 26998277)
Pack champagne...lots of champagne!
I'm insanely jealous of your Greenland voyage, but look forward to all the tips!
Originally Posted by Fleck
(Post 26998301)
The Hemingway of trip reports. Thanks for this one!
Originally Posted by channonc
(Post 26999743)
Fantastic trip report as always Daniel! I'm headed to Russia in a few days, but looks like I need to add Georgia to my ever growing list of places I should visit.
Originally Posted by davidvc
(Post 27001167)
Looks like it was a great trip! After reading this (and seeing some other awesome Georgia photos elsewhere), I ended up finalizing a 4 day trip to Georgia in late October; my itinerary will be pretty similar, except I'll probably go to Gori last since I'm flying into Tbilisi and out of Kutaisi.
Originally Posted by RandomBaritone
(Post 27002989)
Great stuff! My friends and I also hiked up to the church when we visited Stepantsminda -- or Kazbegi as it was then still known -- in 2005, though we had decidedly better weather. ;) And as luck would have it, we visited on the church's festival day, so practically the entire town was up there with us. One of my fondest memories.
Originally Posted by hauteboy
(Post 27003035)
We hired a taxi for the ride up to Stepantsminda, so we could stop for photos along the way. But there were 4 of us together. IIRC was 80 lari one-way but that was in 2005. Took the marshrutka back to Tbilisi, I think that worked out well.
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Lovely little report, I enjoyed reading it. Thanks for writing it and for the pictures. :)
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Originally Posted by Calchas
(Post 27008039)
Lovely little report, I enjoyed reading it. Thanks for writing it and for the pictures. :)
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