From Summit to Safari (Tanzania, Zanzibar, Kenya and Ghana) (QR A350, BA J; PW, P2,
May 6, 2016, 1:51 pm
#31
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Kilimanjaro (Day 6 – Horombo Camp) [summit day]
23:30 came far too soon with less than two hours of sleep in the bank. The porters (not just ours) seemed like they were having a gay old time throughout the night, although that was likely just my perception. Regardless I was fully awake and ready to see just how difficult this climb could be. We had about 4000 feet in elevation to climb (pole, pole of course) and up until this point I had felt zero ill effects of the elevation. As I had slept with the majority of my cold weather gear on, I simply activated a pair of hand warmers, and put on my boots and coat before venturing outside. Other than feeling like the Michelin Man in a wrestling singlet, I was warm as could be. There was a strange feel about the morning as everyone bobbed around with their headlights under the star-lit sky.
I wasn’t disappointed, but breakfast was a bit of a shocker. Waiting in the dining tent were come cookies and tea. More than filling after last night’s carb buffet.
Biscuits and tea
That arrow should just point straight up
A few minutes behind schedule (not that it really mattered) we headed off into the darkness at 12:10. A few groups had left already and some were following close behind. No more than 100m from camp was Kili’s first victim. I’m sure everyone who walked by and gawked at his queasy demeanor didn’t boost his self-esteem, but at this point it was every man for himself. So we pressed on. Finally at 1:30 we reached our first somewhat significant milestone. Williams Point marks 5000m (16404’). It wasn’t exactly a stopping point so I snapped a photo of the dilapidated sign and kept on trekking.
May as well say keeping going
The first two hours were actually really bright, as the nearly full moon hadn’t set beyond the upper most crest of the mountain. No one (except a few rude folks) really needed their headlight at this point. Behind us was an enchanting view of Mawenzi and the horizon, which I eagerly anticipated the sunrise to peak out from below any minute. But it never came. While our pace seemed dreadfully slow we were only passed by one group who were chugging along at an unsustainable pace. Needless to say we passed them for good when they took an extend break shortly after.
Headlamps
Sadly taking photos was very challenging as I never wanted to completely stop moving and bringing a tripod was out of the question. Although I would absolutely bring a tripod and different lens if I ever summit again, even at the risk of not summiting. A time-lapse of the horizon would be mesmerizing. One other challenge on the first half of the climb to Gilman’s Point was crossing the scree. When you descend you simply run down the loose rock in a mostly straight path, but ascending requires countless switchbacks. Each switchback had to cross the sandy loose scree at a somewhat steep angle and I had to be cautious with each step I took.
Mawenzi in the dark
At 2:00 we reached Hans Meyer Cave (5150m/16900’). Up until this point I had remained very warm and was drinking regularly enough from my HOT water to prevent the tube from freezing, but I could tell it was beginning to get cold if I went more than a few minutes without draining the exposed water. Beyond the scree zone we had entered the boulder forest (my name) portion of the climb. Much more exposed to the elements (specifically the wind) the cold crept up on us and I often needed my hands to find my way. There was no specific path, but just a route inches behind John as he slowly led us from one false summit to the next. It seemed like this went on for hours, mostly because it did, and eventually John told us “only four more.”
Moonset above Hans Meyer Cave
At long last as the clock struck 4:07 a big grin crossed my face as we reached Gilman’s Peak. While not the true summit, at 5685m (18652’) it was the moment at which I knew we would make it. Gilman’s is one of a few points atop Kilimanjaro which meet the trail that surrounds the crater and eventually leads to Uhuru Peak, our ultimate destination. We took a few obligatory (blurry) photos at this secondary summit before proceeding on the approximately one and a half hour trek to the true top of Africa.
Partial success
Checking the heartrate
The first half around the crater was actually rather easy and fortunately it was in the dark so I didn’t see some of the perilous drops off into the crater we were mere inches from. After 40 minutes we arrived at Stella Point (5756m/18885’) where the other routes join our trail to Uhuru Peak. The downside of reaching Stella is beyond that point you are completely exposed to the elements and the wind becomes chilling. Maybe five hours in the dark cold night contributed too, but I began to get a bit cold. My brother especially took notice and we pressed on for a small area with a break from the wind. For the first time all trip we decided to refuel and have a small snack. Of course I was too cool for school and ignored the advice about chewy foods and our gummy snacks were not the best choice in this situation. Nature also called which was a struggle of its own with four layers on and two sets of gloves.
Starting to feel that wind
Ice along the Mweka Trail to Uhuru Peak
First real break since Hans Meyer Cave
All of a sudden I looked back and saw the first hint of daybreak over the horizon which was a great motivator. There were not too many headlamps ahead of us at this point, but one set in particular kept getting closer and closer until it dawned on me that they were no longer moving and we were within sight of Uhuru. And there you have it, at 5:44 my brother and I reached the highest point in Africa.
Literally ran ahead to get this shot, bad idea!
I think that sign says go back down now
Obligatory hugs and high-fives were exchanged as we waited our turn to pose in front of the only proof of our Kilimanjaro triumph. The group of Americans who had speed control issues earlier reached shortly after and created a melee at the summit with everyone trying to have their photo taken at once. It didn’t help that it was still mostly dark and light was at a premium. My brother and I stood back and let them have their moment while I took some photos of my last sunrise in my 20’s. That few minutes just waiting in the elements really was cold. However, waiting was a bit of a blessing as more light allowed us to get a slightly better photo.
Congrats all around
Looking back down the ridge toward Stella and Gilman’s Point
Waiting our turn (maybe 25 reached the top, in busy season it can be more than 100)
A bit more light this time
Proof
Me too
With that, we began the hike back home. I had some birthday beers waiting for me. Leaving at 6:09 meant we spent 25 minutes at the true summit, which seems to be rather long by most accounts. Since the sun was now rising we got to enjoy some stunning views to the east as far as the eyes could see. The glaciers are simply inspiring with their sharp edges contrasting the ground below and sky above. All sorts of opinions (whether unfounded or not) exist on the remaining longevity of these marvels, but just like with the aerial photos of the Dead Sea, it’s hard to argue against their shrinking size. Some give them 15 years, others 50. With the sun just rising in the east (duh) the glaciers beyond Uhuru Peak (in the west) were mostly still shroud in darkness and the Northern Ice Field nor Furtwängler Glacier could hardly be seen. The Northern Ice Field is the largest of the remaining glaciers atop Kilimanjaro and once fed all of the other glaciers. One regret (in hindsight) was getting to the summit too early. I would have walked a bit slower had I known how dark it would be initially.
The walk back
As we continued down we saw some fantastic sights we completely missed as we climbed in darkness. A “mini” part of the Southern Ice Field was just a stone’s throw away and as we passed Stella Point we took photos in much better light. Before we knew it we were back at Gilman’s Point where we shed a few layers before going for a boulder dash and a scree run. Once we cleared the boulder forest we finally got to use those poles we lugged around for six days. I was a bit cautious at first but eventually got the hang of it and after a good workout and almost three hours later we were back at Kibo Hut! And it wasn’t even 9:00 yet. (8:51 to be exact)
A small piece of the Southern Ice Field
Victory!
Mount Meru beyond the glacier
Silhouettes of those still headed up
Mount Meru is not as high, but offers a much steeper ascent
West side of Rebmann Glacier
Close up of Rebmann Glacier
East side of Rebmann Glacier
Wide trail along the ridge
Here comes the sun
The trail home
Kodak moment
Last Rebmann view
Kibo Hut is within sight!
Good morning Mawenzi
Just about back at Stella Point
Stella Point
Most trekkers exit here
Mawenzi was awfully photogenic this morning
Back to the narrow trail
No hand rails
The ridge and trail to Uhuru
Rather large stalactites and stalagmites, well one of those
Northern Ice Fields from a distance
Approaching Gilman’s Point
Gilman’s
Beginning the boulder dash
Through the boulder forest
Kibo doesn’t seem to be getting any closer
Scree run time
Opps
Samuel slid down as if he had a snowboard under his boots
Photo doesn’t do the steepness justice
Missed that work of art on the way up, maybe glow in the dark paint next time
Surprisingly I wasn’t particularly hungry but lunch was served and I set out some clothes to dry before we had to pack up and continue on to Horombo Camp. Along the way we caught up with a pair of Kiwis who had also summited this morning but they were going to Mandara Hut to have a shorter last day. As we neared our camp it began to cloud over and eventually rained once we took shelter. Glad we didn’t have any farther to go today.
Never felt so good to be halfway complete
A toast to our success, sorry, that was lame
Someone should maybe suggest to make the potato soup on day one so you don’t have to carry them to 15000’
Watermelon that didn’t get touched
On the road to Horombo
Vegetation again!
Medevac helipad
Familiar terrain
I thought we were done stumbling on rocks
Kilimanjaro ambulance
A road?!
This camp was like no other we had visited. It housed three types of trekkers: 1) those like ourselves who had been camping in relative seclusion, 2) those who took the Coca-Cola route and were returning from the summit and 3) those who were just on day two and had some long days ahead of them. In other words it was Nairobi while we had spent our first few nights in Pitcairn. Bit of a culture shock, but I was too tired to care. Popcorn and tea was served and before we had dinner my brother took a shower (such different amenities for those Coca-Cola folks) and I cleaned house in another game of Monopoly. One perk of this camp was most porters and guides stayed in huts, so it really muffled their noise. Not that I needed help falling asleep. What a great day!
Horombo Hut
How the other half live
Got mixed reviews on the hut life
One last popcorn
And so begins the last supper
Soup
Did someone say leftovers?!
I think so
Another win for the Wolf of Atlantic City before some much needed sleep
***
(Kibo-Gilman’s)
Distance: 2.47 mi, 3.98 km
Time 3:58:27
Camp Elevation: 18652’, 5685m
Average Pace: 1:36:20/mile
(Gilman’s-Uhuru Peak)
Distance: 1.33 mi, 2.14 km
Time 1:32:37
Camp Elevation: 19341’, 5895m
Average Pace: 1:09:00/mile
(Uhuru Peak-Kibo)
Distance: 3.37 mi, 5.42 km
Time 2:40:13
Average Pace: 47:33 min/mile
(Kibo-Horombo)
Distance: 5.95 mi, 9.58 km
Time 2:16:54
Camp Elevation: 12204’, 3720m
Average Pace: 23:01 min/mile
Daily Total
Distance: 13.12 mi, 21.11 km
Time 10:28:00
Hike to Uhuru Peak via Gilman’s Point and back
View from the West (above the Northern Ice Fields) looking toward Mawenzi; showing the hike from Gilman’s Point (red) along the ridge to Uhuru Peak (star)
Kibo to Horombo Hut
Overall progress
I wasn’t disappointed, but breakfast was a bit of a shocker. Waiting in the dining tent were come cookies and tea. More than filling after last night’s carb buffet.
Biscuits and tea
That arrow should just point straight up
A few minutes behind schedule (not that it really mattered) we headed off into the darkness at 12:10. A few groups had left already and some were following close behind. No more than 100m from camp was Kili’s first victim. I’m sure everyone who walked by and gawked at his queasy demeanor didn’t boost his self-esteem, but at this point it was every man for himself. So we pressed on. Finally at 1:30 we reached our first somewhat significant milestone. Williams Point marks 5000m (16404’). It wasn’t exactly a stopping point so I snapped a photo of the dilapidated sign and kept on trekking.
May as well say keeping going
The first two hours were actually really bright, as the nearly full moon hadn’t set beyond the upper most crest of the mountain. No one (except a few rude folks) really needed their headlight at this point. Behind us was an enchanting view of Mawenzi and the horizon, which I eagerly anticipated the sunrise to peak out from below any minute. But it never came. While our pace seemed dreadfully slow we were only passed by one group who were chugging along at an unsustainable pace. Needless to say we passed them for good when they took an extend break shortly after.
Headlamps
Sadly taking photos was very challenging as I never wanted to completely stop moving and bringing a tripod was out of the question. Although I would absolutely bring a tripod and different lens if I ever summit again, even at the risk of not summiting. A time-lapse of the horizon would be mesmerizing. One other challenge on the first half of the climb to Gilman’s Point was crossing the scree. When you descend you simply run down the loose rock in a mostly straight path, but ascending requires countless switchbacks. Each switchback had to cross the sandy loose scree at a somewhat steep angle and I had to be cautious with each step I took.
Mawenzi in the dark
At 2:00 we reached Hans Meyer Cave (5150m/16900’). Up until this point I had remained very warm and was drinking regularly enough from my HOT water to prevent the tube from freezing, but I could tell it was beginning to get cold if I went more than a few minutes without draining the exposed water. Beyond the scree zone we had entered the boulder forest (my name) portion of the climb. Much more exposed to the elements (specifically the wind) the cold crept up on us and I often needed my hands to find my way. There was no specific path, but just a route inches behind John as he slowly led us from one false summit to the next. It seemed like this went on for hours, mostly because it did, and eventually John told us “only four more.”
Moonset above Hans Meyer Cave
At long last as the clock struck 4:07 a big grin crossed my face as we reached Gilman’s Peak. While not the true summit, at 5685m (18652’) it was the moment at which I knew we would make it. Gilman’s is one of a few points atop Kilimanjaro which meet the trail that surrounds the crater and eventually leads to Uhuru Peak, our ultimate destination. We took a few obligatory (blurry) photos at this secondary summit before proceeding on the approximately one and a half hour trek to the true top of Africa.
Partial success
Checking the heartrate
The first half around the crater was actually rather easy and fortunately it was in the dark so I didn’t see some of the perilous drops off into the crater we were mere inches from. After 40 minutes we arrived at Stella Point (5756m/18885’) where the other routes join our trail to Uhuru Peak. The downside of reaching Stella is beyond that point you are completely exposed to the elements and the wind becomes chilling. Maybe five hours in the dark cold night contributed too, but I began to get a bit cold. My brother especially took notice and we pressed on for a small area with a break from the wind. For the first time all trip we decided to refuel and have a small snack. Of course I was too cool for school and ignored the advice about chewy foods and our gummy snacks were not the best choice in this situation. Nature also called which was a struggle of its own with four layers on and two sets of gloves.
Starting to feel that wind
Ice along the Mweka Trail to Uhuru Peak
First real break since Hans Meyer Cave
All of a sudden I looked back and saw the first hint of daybreak over the horizon which was a great motivator. There were not too many headlamps ahead of us at this point, but one set in particular kept getting closer and closer until it dawned on me that they were no longer moving and we were within sight of Uhuru. And there you have it, at 5:44 my brother and I reached the highest point in Africa.
Literally ran ahead to get this shot, bad idea!
I think that sign says go back down now
Obligatory hugs and high-fives were exchanged as we waited our turn to pose in front of the only proof of our Kilimanjaro triumph. The group of Americans who had speed control issues earlier reached shortly after and created a melee at the summit with everyone trying to have their photo taken at once. It didn’t help that it was still mostly dark and light was at a premium. My brother and I stood back and let them have their moment while I took some photos of my last sunrise in my 20’s. That few minutes just waiting in the elements really was cold. However, waiting was a bit of a blessing as more light allowed us to get a slightly better photo.
Congrats all around
Looking back down the ridge toward Stella and Gilman’s Point
Waiting our turn (maybe 25 reached the top, in busy season it can be more than 100)
A bit more light this time
Proof
Me too
With that, we began the hike back home. I had some birthday beers waiting for me. Leaving at 6:09 meant we spent 25 minutes at the true summit, which seems to be rather long by most accounts. Since the sun was now rising we got to enjoy some stunning views to the east as far as the eyes could see. The glaciers are simply inspiring with their sharp edges contrasting the ground below and sky above. All sorts of opinions (whether unfounded or not) exist on the remaining longevity of these marvels, but just like with the aerial photos of the Dead Sea, it’s hard to argue against their shrinking size. Some give them 15 years, others 50. With the sun just rising in the east (duh) the glaciers beyond Uhuru Peak (in the west) were mostly still shroud in darkness and the Northern Ice Field nor Furtwängler Glacier could hardly be seen. The Northern Ice Field is the largest of the remaining glaciers atop Kilimanjaro and once fed all of the other glaciers. One regret (in hindsight) was getting to the summit too early. I would have walked a bit slower had I known how dark it would be initially.
The walk back
As we continued down we saw some fantastic sights we completely missed as we climbed in darkness. A “mini” part of the Southern Ice Field was just a stone’s throw away and as we passed Stella Point we took photos in much better light. Before we knew it we were back at Gilman’s Point where we shed a few layers before going for a boulder dash and a scree run. Once we cleared the boulder forest we finally got to use those poles we lugged around for six days. I was a bit cautious at first but eventually got the hang of it and after a good workout and almost three hours later we were back at Kibo Hut! And it wasn’t even 9:00 yet. (8:51 to be exact)
A small piece of the Southern Ice Field
Victory!
Mount Meru beyond the glacier
Silhouettes of those still headed up
Mount Meru is not as high, but offers a much steeper ascent
West side of Rebmann Glacier
Close up of Rebmann Glacier
East side of Rebmann Glacier
Wide trail along the ridge
Here comes the sun
The trail home
Kodak moment
Last Rebmann view
Kibo Hut is within sight!
Good morning Mawenzi
Just about back at Stella Point
Stella Point
Most trekkers exit here
Mawenzi was awfully photogenic this morning
Back to the narrow trail
No hand rails
The ridge and trail to Uhuru
Rather large stalactites and stalagmites, well one of those
Northern Ice Fields from a distance
Approaching Gilman’s Point
Gilman’s
Beginning the boulder dash
Through the boulder forest
Kibo doesn’t seem to be getting any closer
Scree run time
Opps
Samuel slid down as if he had a snowboard under his boots
Photo doesn’t do the steepness justice
Missed that work of art on the way up, maybe glow in the dark paint next time
Surprisingly I wasn’t particularly hungry but lunch was served and I set out some clothes to dry before we had to pack up and continue on to Horombo Camp. Along the way we caught up with a pair of Kiwis who had also summited this morning but they were going to Mandara Hut to have a shorter last day. As we neared our camp it began to cloud over and eventually rained once we took shelter. Glad we didn’t have any farther to go today.
Never felt so good to be halfway complete
A toast to our success, sorry, that was lame
Someone should maybe suggest to make the potato soup on day one so you don’t have to carry them to 15000’
Watermelon that didn’t get touched
On the road to Horombo
Vegetation again!
Medevac helipad
Familiar terrain
I thought we were done stumbling on rocks
Kilimanjaro ambulance
A road?!
This camp was like no other we had visited. It housed three types of trekkers: 1) those like ourselves who had been camping in relative seclusion, 2) those who took the Coca-Cola route and were returning from the summit and 3) those who were just on day two and had some long days ahead of them. In other words it was Nairobi while we had spent our first few nights in Pitcairn. Bit of a culture shock, but I was too tired to care. Popcorn and tea was served and before we had dinner my brother took a shower (such different amenities for those Coca-Cola folks) and I cleaned house in another game of Monopoly. One perk of this camp was most porters and guides stayed in huts, so it really muffled their noise. Not that I needed help falling asleep. What a great day!
Horombo Hut
How the other half live
Got mixed reviews on the hut life
One last popcorn
And so begins the last supper
Soup
Did someone say leftovers?!
I think so
Another win for the Wolf of Atlantic City before some much needed sleep
***
(Kibo-Gilman’s)
Distance: 2.47 mi, 3.98 km
Time 3:58:27
Camp Elevation: 18652’, 5685m
Average Pace: 1:36:20/mile
(Gilman’s-Uhuru Peak)
Distance: 1.33 mi, 2.14 km
Time 1:32:37
Camp Elevation: 19341’, 5895m
Average Pace: 1:09:00/mile
(Uhuru Peak-Kibo)
Distance: 3.37 mi, 5.42 km
Time 2:40:13
Average Pace: 47:33 min/mile
(Kibo-Horombo)
Distance: 5.95 mi, 9.58 km
Time 2:16:54
Camp Elevation: 12204’, 3720m
Average Pace: 23:01 min/mile
Daily Total
Distance: 13.12 mi, 21.11 km
Time 10:28:00
Hike to Uhuru Peak via Gilman’s Point and back
View from the West (above the Northern Ice Fields) looking toward Mawenzi; showing the hike from Gilman’s Point (red) along the ridge to Uhuru Peak (star)
Kibo to Horombo Hut
Overall progress
Last edited by rivlinm; May 7, 2016 at 10:40 am
May 6, 2016, 3:55 pm
#32
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
I took Diamox but had zero issue with the altitude. I'd be curious to try without drugs next time and see what elevation it starts to hit me. I wouldn't say panting, but it did require harder breathing. I found getting Oxygen was much more difficult on the Inka Trail but I am also in much better shape these days.
Looking forward to climbing to Everest Base Camp this fall and seeing what extended periods at elevation do, undecided on drugs.
Thanks. Surprised you haven't tried that route yet, I was really pleased, Marunga didn't look very special, plus we got to see the scenery on the way out. Camping at the base of Mawenzi was very enjoyable.
May 6, 2016, 4:38 pm
#33
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Kilimanjaro (Day 7)
Our final day on the mountain started early but I think we were all eager to get back to Moshi. We quickly feasted on breakfast; of you know what, then it was Jambo Bwana time!
The crew had sung a few songs along the trail when things were getting dull and they kicked off our last morning with a full crew rendition followed by Happy Birthday. Although I think only John knew the words in English so it was a lot of humming and moving the lips.
Last sunrise above the clouds
I’ve decided, it’s cheese
Food finally showing its age
”This porridge is just right”
Tired of this photo yet?
Happy Birthday…
By 6:45 we were on the trail with nearly a half-marathon ahead of us. It was still rather brisk early on. You could tell the porters were excited to get back as most jogged past along the trail. Even though they had to wait for the same bus back to Moshi as us. Along the way we experienced a wide range of climate zones. Most noticeably this side of the mountain was much more lush and even included a few waterfalls. Eventually we reached Mandara Hut Camp and with just a few miles left I could tell my legs were becoming tired. Where I would normally have no issue skipping from rock to rock, here my footing was not so sure.
These things are everywhere on the south side
Mawenzi’s back (south) side
Felt like midday already
Aren’t we supposed to be going down?
Spotted plains
Two for one (Kili and Mawenzi)
Five minute break at Mandara Hut
Welcome to the jungle
Waterfall!
Cow head tree
Finally at 11:15 Marunga Gate and our welcome party (Dad - still a bit unsure of the knee, but walking markedly better) was waiting for us. We had to sign out at the gate, then proceed to the Park HQ to officially sign out again. There were a few shops selling souvenirs and our friends from day one were quick to remind us who they were and what we “promised” them last week.
Marunga Gate
Signing out
Recognition for the First African, European and Guides to climb in 1889
Kinapa HQ
Signing out again
Log book
For those times you want a warm Baltika in Africa
***
Today’s Data
Distance: 12.36 mi, 19.89 km
Time 4:29:28
Average Pace: 21:48 min/mile
Horombo Camp to Marunga Gate
Final Route
Overall Data (Excluding side hikes)
Distance: 44.91 mi, 72.28 km
Time 28:03:56
Average Pace: 37:30 min/mile
***
Over lunch the three of us exchanged stories from the week and enjoyed one last meal prepared by our chef, including his favorite pumpkin soup. Stuffed, the crew sang us one last version of Jambo Bwana (I’m telling you, go listen!) and before we hopped aboard the bus bound for the land of beer and showers we presented each of the crew with their tip. Along the ride I took advantage of the internet for the first time in seven days while checking out the sights along the road, which was still laden with speed bumps.
Marunga picnic
Simple but delicious
Pumpkin soup
Beans
One last song and dance
All aboard
Spare tire
Back at the Mountain in we said a final farewell to the crew, picked up our bags and dropped off the rented gear. A quick shower and it was time for a few beers poolside. Mom had sent along a few treats that Dad was planning to give me along the trail, so we enjoyed those and sorted through our gear to pack up. My brother was heading out early on a 2:00 flight (maybe he will enlighten us with a report of his TK J flights via MBA and IST to SFO) so rather than carry certain things across Africa for the next ten days, we packed him a bag to deliver stateside. Exhausted, and maybe a wee bit buzzed, we partook in dinner before I crashed for the night at 21:30. Brother left for the airport soon after and with that, there were just two of us for the upcoming Zanzibar, Safari and West African adventures.
Receiving our certificate
Home sweet Mountain Inn
Lap time, since I didn’t get much exercise this week
Birthday Beer #1
Ndovu
Castle
Castle Lite
Savanna Cider
Birthday treat from Mom
Chips
Soup not in a metal bowl
Chicken burger
Fried banana
Last sunrise above the clouds
I’ve decided, it’s cheese
Food finally showing its age
”This porridge is just right”
Tired of this photo yet?
Happy Birthday…
By 6:45 we were on the trail with nearly a half-marathon ahead of us. It was still rather brisk early on. You could tell the porters were excited to get back as most jogged past along the trail. Even though they had to wait for the same bus back to Moshi as us. Along the way we experienced a wide range of climate zones. Most noticeably this side of the mountain was much more lush and even included a few waterfalls. Eventually we reached Mandara Hut Camp and with just a few miles left I could tell my legs were becoming tired. Where I would normally have no issue skipping from rock to rock, here my footing was not so sure.
These things are everywhere on the south side
Mawenzi’s back (south) side
Felt like midday already
Aren’t we supposed to be going down?
Spotted plains
Two for one (Kili and Mawenzi)
Five minute break at Mandara Hut
Welcome to the jungle
Waterfall!
Cow head tree
Finally at 11:15 Marunga Gate and our welcome party (Dad - still a bit unsure of the knee, but walking markedly better) was waiting for us. We had to sign out at the gate, then proceed to the Park HQ to officially sign out again. There were a few shops selling souvenirs and our friends from day one were quick to remind us who they were and what we “promised” them last week.
Marunga Gate
Signing out
Recognition for the First African, European and Guides to climb in 1889
Kinapa HQ
Signing out again
Log book
For those times you want a warm Baltika in Africa
***
Today’s Data
Distance: 12.36 mi, 19.89 km
Time 4:29:28
Average Pace: 21:48 min/mile
Horombo Camp to Marunga Gate
Final Route
Overall Data (Excluding side hikes)
Distance: 44.91 mi, 72.28 km
Time 28:03:56
Average Pace: 37:30 min/mile
***
Over lunch the three of us exchanged stories from the week and enjoyed one last meal prepared by our chef, including his favorite pumpkin soup. Stuffed, the crew sang us one last version of Jambo Bwana (I’m telling you, go listen!) and before we hopped aboard the bus bound for the land of beer and showers we presented each of the crew with their tip. Along the ride I took advantage of the internet for the first time in seven days while checking out the sights along the road, which was still laden with speed bumps.
Marunga picnic
Simple but delicious
Pumpkin soup
Beans
One last song and dance
All aboard
Spare tire
Back at the Mountain in we said a final farewell to the crew, picked up our bags and dropped off the rented gear. A quick shower and it was time for a few beers poolside. Mom had sent along a few treats that Dad was planning to give me along the trail, so we enjoyed those and sorted through our gear to pack up. My brother was heading out early on a 2:00 flight (maybe he will enlighten us with a report of his TK J flights via MBA and IST to SFO) so rather than carry certain things across Africa for the next ten days, we packed him a bag to deliver stateside. Exhausted, and maybe a wee bit buzzed, we partook in dinner before I crashed for the night at 21:30. Brother left for the airport soon after and with that, there were just two of us for the upcoming Zanzibar, Safari and West African adventures.
Receiving our certificate
Home sweet Mountain Inn
Lap time, since I didn’t get much exercise this week
Birthday Beer #1
Ndovu
Castle
Castle Lite
Savanna Cider
Birthday treat from Mom
Chips
Soup not in a metal bowl
Chicken burger
Fried banana
May 7, 2016, 9:51 am
#36
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: San Francisco, CA
Programs: UA Gold, Hyatt Globalist
Posts: 68
Thank you so much for this report! My family and I are doing a very similar trip (minus the trek) this summer, so I am really looking forward to your reports on Zanzibar & the Masai Mara. I too booked our flights based on award availability, so we are flying TK SFO/IST/NBO, then DAR/IST/SFO. I wish I had done a little more research before booking the flights, because flying to Kenya first and then Tanzania means we all have to get the Yellow Fever vaccine which is adding about $600 to our trip cost. Plus, the majority of our time will be in Kenya, but had we flown to Tanzania first, we would have qualified for a transit visa which is half the price. The good news is that I think ending the trip in Zanzibar will be a welcome relief. I'm curious if you took anti-malarial medication while there. Thanks again and congratulations on your successful summit!
May 7, 2016, 12:19 pm
#37
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Zanzibar, Tanzania [Nungwi] (JRO>ZNZ)
I woke up still tired (and hot), but it was time to head to the airport and begin the more relaxing portion of our travels. Breakfast normally wasn’t available until 7:00 but at 6:45 they were happy to serve us for our hour-long ride to JRO. Being a Tuesday morning, there was plenty of activity on the streets (not traffic necessarily) with locals headed to work and school. A few last views of the mountains too.
One last Mountain Inn breakfast
Hit the spot as it would be awhile until we found food again
Heading out
Moshi bus
So long Kili
Blue and pink
Headed to work
Roadside stalls
Tanzanite, just outside the airport
After our journey on the Moshi-Arusha High-speed Expressway we arrived and received a moderately thorough search of the vehicle before being allowed to approach the terminal. As we walked up we were asked for proof of our flight. Not all that out of the ordinary, but this check was very lengthy with multiple checks of our passport and documentations. Not very efficient, maybe he was just bored since no one else was around. Since we sent some of our gear home already, our two bags weighed just 38 kg, under our 46kg allowance. The non-weight conscious were stuck with bag fees one after the other. Luckily my 10kg camera bag was not weighed. Since Zanzibar is considered a domestic flight we had no access to the international lounge and waited about ten minutes airside until they began letting everyone into the domestic terminal. Just 15 minutes airside and boarding commenced in mob fashion. We were seated in 1C/D, which was an exit row, but boarding was from the rear on this ATR 72-500.
Kilimanjaro International Airport
Terminal security line
PrecisionAir check-in
Domestic departures had one big AC that kept one corner cool
Walk to the plane
Rear boarding
PW livery
PW (Precision Air) flight 421
Kilimanjaro, Tanzania (JRO) to Zanzibar, Tanzania (ZNZ)
Depart: 10:00, Arrive: 11:20, Time: 1:20
ATR 72-500, Seat 1D
Once onboard this rather new 2008 aircraft, the crew finished stowing the bags in the compartment just behind the cockpit (no belly on this plane) and we promptly took off. The window was extremely scratched so I didn’t even bother taking any photos as we reached the coast. Between the paa in-flight magazine and a service of whole cashews and drinks, the flight passed quickly. Upon landing we had a very short bus ride to the terminal where we had to fill out domestic arrival cards, which no one even bothered to look at. Baggage claim was rather comical as it consisted of two men removing the bags from the cart and handing it to customers, rather routine, but these two took it a step further. Rather than just take the closest bag and bring it out, they very obviously went out of their way to bring the smallest and lightest bags first, followed by big bags with four wheels. My dad’s bag was passed over multiple times since it only had two wheels and wasn’t light. Finally we were on our way out of the airport and found or driver for $50 (average tourist price) to take us over an hour north to Nungwi.
Rather clean and comfortable plane
Exit row with no status!
Inflight catering, take notice United
ZNZ terminal
Money changers; better rates in Moshi
One bag at a time
The ride to Nungwi
Along the streets locals were going about their business two days after the majority Muslim semi-autonomous islands again voted in favor of the incumbent President after a botched election in October was deemed invalid after the opposition declared victory. There had been some spats of violence over the past few months, but the few locals we spoke to seemed pleased with the result even though the opposition boycotted voting. Our drive really showed Zanzibar as a much less developed region than what we had seen on mainland Tanzania. I think our driver had a mix tape of the only Swahili songs but was excited when I recognized Jambo Bwana and Lala Salama. Along the way we picked up a woman on the road, but she turned out to be part of the staff at our bungalow. Photos along the ride were difficult given the dirty windows, please excuse.
The main road in and out of the airport
No denying that Zanzibar is Islamic
The local police?
Stonetown market
Election celebration
Pro Shien locals
The computer room
Alex, the French property owner, welcomed us and showed us to our room (one of only four) for our two nights in Zanzibar. He took us for a walk to the beach and pointed out a few choices for lunch.
Atii Garden Bungalows
Just four units
Reception
Entry
Our second floor unit
Porch
Surprisingly peaceful given the neighborhood
We had been advised to be wary of the “beach boys” who wish to sell you goods or services (tours) but often just take your money in advance and never deliver. To our surprise the beach was barren and for good reason, it was HOT. We were rather hungry so decided to try Mangis right on the water. I had an Ndovu along with a seafood chapatti wrap for 14000 Tsh. Dad went with the fish version. Not wanting to bake in the sun, we relaxed for bit before wandering off to explore options for scuba diving. We decided to do a two-drive trip off the shore of Mnemba Island early the next morning. Since we hadn’t gone diving in about two years they asked us to come back that afternoon to organize our gear and refresh ourselves in the open water for about an hour. In the meantime we found some shade along the beach and did nothing for a bit, something I am not very good at.
City street to the beach
Fresh beer delivery
Neighbors
Must not be a popular beach
Mangis
Lunch view
Impressive bar
Looks like it would be a fun spot late night
Quickly becoming my favorite
Chapatti wrap
Powdery sand although hot
Zanzibar is one of the world’s leading producers of seaweed; used in food, cosmetics and even toothpaste
Pristine blue water
The coastline is made up of many individual beaches accessible on foot during low tide
Beach connector
Billboards when it’s too hot for the beach boys
Lots of girthy wooden boats dotted the coast
One brave beach boy who doesn’t mind the heat
Spanish Dancer Divers dive shop
Tonight’s fresh catch coming in
One after another
Quite a pleasant place when the sun sets
As it neared time to do our dive refresher the beach began to come to life again with the beach boys coming out to sell us anything and everything. Normally when we have gone diving on vacation the gear is all arranged and ready, but at Spanish Dancer Divers we had to gather all of the equipment, attach the BCD and walk it to the water ourselves. No trouble, just unique. We dove to about seven to ten meters for around 30 minutes and I knew tomorrow would be a great dive. This offshore dive was stunning in and of itself. Around 17:00 we headed back to our bungalow to clean up and plan for dinner. Alex suggested rather than go pay town prices he had a friend who was preparing a traditional BBQ and we were welcome to join for 13000 Tsh.
And the beach comes alive
Locals and tourists
The view across from our bungalow
After the call to prayer we joined the others taking part in the BBQ (a French couple, a Kiwi living in the UK and a few locals) and enjoyed a great local feast with some great conversation. The tuna was great along with the variety of other sides, but my first foray into ugali was not very enjoyable. The flour based boiled ball just reminded me of three-day old grits that had hardened up and become very chewy. I guess it’s an acquired taste. After some more conversation we called it a night and retreated back to our semi-cool air-conditioned room for a bit of sleep before an early morning on the boat.
Fish on the grill
Dinner is served
Tuna with ugali and some other things I don’t know
Good company
One last Mountain Inn breakfast
Hit the spot as it would be awhile until we found food again
Heading out
Moshi bus
So long Kili
Blue and pink
Headed to work
Roadside stalls
Tanzanite, just outside the airport
After our journey on the Moshi-Arusha High-speed Expressway we arrived and received a moderately thorough search of the vehicle before being allowed to approach the terminal. As we walked up we were asked for proof of our flight. Not all that out of the ordinary, but this check was very lengthy with multiple checks of our passport and documentations. Not very efficient, maybe he was just bored since no one else was around. Since we sent some of our gear home already, our two bags weighed just 38 kg, under our 46kg allowance. The non-weight conscious were stuck with bag fees one after the other. Luckily my 10kg camera bag was not weighed. Since Zanzibar is considered a domestic flight we had no access to the international lounge and waited about ten minutes airside until they began letting everyone into the domestic terminal. Just 15 minutes airside and boarding commenced in mob fashion. We were seated in 1C/D, which was an exit row, but boarding was from the rear on this ATR 72-500.
Kilimanjaro International Airport
Terminal security line
PrecisionAir check-in
Domestic departures had one big AC that kept one corner cool
Walk to the plane
Rear boarding
PW livery
PW (Precision Air) flight 421
Kilimanjaro, Tanzania (JRO) to Zanzibar, Tanzania (ZNZ)
Depart: 10:00, Arrive: 11:20, Time: 1:20
ATR 72-500, Seat 1D
Once onboard this rather new 2008 aircraft, the crew finished stowing the bags in the compartment just behind the cockpit (no belly on this plane) and we promptly took off. The window was extremely scratched so I didn’t even bother taking any photos as we reached the coast. Between the paa in-flight magazine and a service of whole cashews and drinks, the flight passed quickly. Upon landing we had a very short bus ride to the terminal where we had to fill out domestic arrival cards, which no one even bothered to look at. Baggage claim was rather comical as it consisted of two men removing the bags from the cart and handing it to customers, rather routine, but these two took it a step further. Rather than just take the closest bag and bring it out, they very obviously went out of their way to bring the smallest and lightest bags first, followed by big bags with four wheels. My dad’s bag was passed over multiple times since it only had two wheels and wasn’t light. Finally we were on our way out of the airport and found or driver for $50 (average tourist price) to take us over an hour north to Nungwi.
Rather clean and comfortable plane
Exit row with no status!
Inflight catering, take notice United
ZNZ terminal
Money changers; better rates in Moshi
One bag at a time
The ride to Nungwi
Along the streets locals were going about their business two days after the majority Muslim semi-autonomous islands again voted in favor of the incumbent President after a botched election in October was deemed invalid after the opposition declared victory. There had been some spats of violence over the past few months, but the few locals we spoke to seemed pleased with the result even though the opposition boycotted voting. Our drive really showed Zanzibar as a much less developed region than what we had seen on mainland Tanzania. I think our driver had a mix tape of the only Swahili songs but was excited when I recognized Jambo Bwana and Lala Salama. Along the way we picked up a woman on the road, but she turned out to be part of the staff at our bungalow. Photos along the ride were difficult given the dirty windows, please excuse.
The main road in and out of the airport
No denying that Zanzibar is Islamic
The local police?
Stonetown market
Election celebration
Pro Shien locals
The computer room
Alex, the French property owner, welcomed us and showed us to our room (one of only four) for our two nights in Zanzibar. He took us for a walk to the beach and pointed out a few choices for lunch.
Atii Garden Bungalows
Just four units
Reception
Entry
Our second floor unit
Porch
Surprisingly peaceful given the neighborhood
We had been advised to be wary of the “beach boys” who wish to sell you goods or services (tours) but often just take your money in advance and never deliver. To our surprise the beach was barren and for good reason, it was HOT. We were rather hungry so decided to try Mangis right on the water. I had an Ndovu along with a seafood chapatti wrap for 14000 Tsh. Dad went with the fish version. Not wanting to bake in the sun, we relaxed for bit before wandering off to explore options for scuba diving. We decided to do a two-drive trip off the shore of Mnemba Island early the next morning. Since we hadn’t gone diving in about two years they asked us to come back that afternoon to organize our gear and refresh ourselves in the open water for about an hour. In the meantime we found some shade along the beach and did nothing for a bit, something I am not very good at.
City street to the beach
Fresh beer delivery
Neighbors
Must not be a popular beach
Mangis
Lunch view
Impressive bar
Looks like it would be a fun spot late night
Quickly becoming my favorite
Chapatti wrap
Powdery sand although hot
Zanzibar is one of the world’s leading producers of seaweed; used in food, cosmetics and even toothpaste
Pristine blue water
The coastline is made up of many individual beaches accessible on foot during low tide
Beach connector
Billboards when it’s too hot for the beach boys
Lots of girthy wooden boats dotted the coast
One brave beach boy who doesn’t mind the heat
Spanish Dancer Divers dive shop
Tonight’s fresh catch coming in
One after another
Quite a pleasant place when the sun sets
As it neared time to do our dive refresher the beach began to come to life again with the beach boys coming out to sell us anything and everything. Normally when we have gone diving on vacation the gear is all arranged and ready, but at Spanish Dancer Divers we had to gather all of the equipment, attach the BCD and walk it to the water ourselves. No trouble, just unique. We dove to about seven to ten meters for around 30 minutes and I knew tomorrow would be a great dive. This offshore dive was stunning in and of itself. Around 17:00 we headed back to our bungalow to clean up and plan for dinner. Alex suggested rather than go pay town prices he had a friend who was preparing a traditional BBQ and we were welcome to join for 13000 Tsh.
And the beach comes alive
Locals and tourists
The view across from our bungalow
After the call to prayer we joined the others taking part in the BBQ (a French couple, a Kiwi living in the UK and a few locals) and enjoyed a great local feast with some great conversation. The tuna was great along with the variety of other sides, but my first foray into ugali was not very enjoyable. The flour based boiled ball just reminded me of three-day old grits that had hardened up and become very chewy. I guess it’s an acquired taste. After some more conversation we called it a night and retreated back to our semi-cool air-conditioned room for a bit of sleep before an early morning on the boat.
Fish on the grill
Dinner is served
Tuna with ugali and some other things I don’t know
Good company
May 7, 2016, 12:29 pm
#38
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Thank you so much for this report! My family and I are doing a very similar trip (minus the trek) this summer, so I am really looking forward to your reports on Zanzibar & the Masai Mara. I too booked our flights based on award availability, so we are flying TK SFO/IST/NBO, then DAR/IST/SFO. I wish I had done a little more research before booking the flights, because flying to Kenya first and then Tanzania means we all have to get the Yellow Fever vaccine which is adding about $600 to our trip cost. Plus, the majority of our time will be in Kenya, but had we flown to Tanzania first, we would have qualified for a transit visa which is half the price. The good news is that I think ending the trip in Zanzibar will be a welcome relief. I'm curious if you took anti-malarial medication while there. Thanks again and congratulations on your successful summit!
May 8, 2016, 7:26 pm
#39
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Zanzibar, Tanzania [Nungwi]
Woke up bright and early with the neighborhood animals and the sunrise sneaking past the blinds and headed out for a simple breakfast of fruit and bread in the common area. The sky was a bit cloudy as we headed to the dive shop for our nearly two hour ride up around the northern tip of the island to Mnemba Island off the east coast on Zanzibar. To get on the boat we had to wade out about 20 meters to our weathered looking boat, but it was built like a tank. On the journey out we started pretty far off the coastline to avoid some rather large swells, but even so a number of passengers didn’t look like they were enjoying themselves.
Table for two
Assorted fruit
Not so blue skies
Loading the outboard
Nungwi to Mnemba
Boarding
Choppy water
Bon voyage
Crew and passengers
Maybe our boat isn’t so bad after all
Driver
Gone fishing
After some scenic views around the island we arrived at a nearly private Mnemba Island before dropping anchor. Our dive master, my dad and I dove in and enjoyed a wonderful 50 minutes of diving at about 16 meters on a flat reef at Wattabomi. They were kind enough to loan out GoPros to experienced (read: not first time) divers so I was able to snap a few photos in the crystal-clear water. We didn’t see any creatures too out of the ordinary, but it blew previous dives I had done in Hawaii out of the water.
Approaching Mnemba
Privately owned and very strict with trespassers
Digging in
Hull
Starfish
Sure wish I had a casing for my dslr
Practicing sign language
Coral
School is in session
Hanging out at our safety stop
Back on board we waited for the other groups to find their way back to the boat while enjoying some fruit and pastries. Clearly I still breath way too fast down below. Eventually we pulled the anchor and headed to our second dive spot, Kichuani. This location was more of a wall of coral from two to 30 meters. We went down about 20 meters this time and rode the current with minimal effort. All of a sudden our guide started freaking out and once he had our attention, he pointed out a funky looking creature that looked like a dirty mop head. When we surfaced after our 55-minute dive he explained we had seen a Spanish Dancer fish, a type of sea slug. He had previously only seen it once in all of his diving and it was the name of the company. This dive was by far the better of the two between the sights and being much more comfortable with the equipment, setting and camera. It showcased lots of schools and more unique fish.
Albert Pujols cutting up some snacks
Popular snorkel spot
Trumpet fish
Look mom, no hands!
And no regulator
Hide and go seek
Choriaster granulatus
On a diet
Spanish dancer fish
A GoPro can show colors other than blue?
Time to head back up
Diving buddies
Again, once everyone was back on board they served up some chapatti wraps (vegetables) and watermelon for the ride home. The conditions had vastly improved so they raised the sail and got us back to Nungwi much faster than the outbound journey. Also, with calmer water we were able to drive much closer to shore and see the villages and towns along the route.
More snacks
Long walk on the beach
Anchor up
Sails up and farewell Mnemba
Nungwi lighthouse
Sunset dhow cruise boats
Pulling back into shore
Back on the beach we paid our $140 each and made our way back home to clean up for dinner. No local BBQ tonight so we decided to roam the beach which was overrun with locals playing all sorts of games before deciding to try Langi Langi which overlooked the water. I started with a Kilimanjaro beer and we were offered a potato soup on the house. Dad went with the seafood platter but wasn’t too thrilled by its mostly bland and well-done selections. My pweza wa nazi with spinach (coconut octopus) was enjoyable however. Exhausted from a long day in the sun we crashed shortly after dinner for our last night in Tanzania.
Back ashore
Local market
Buying a few Ndovu’s to bring home
Beach games
Football
Strolling the beach
Langi Langi
View from dinner
Soup and Kilimanjaro
Seafood platter
Pweza wa nazi
Not sure leaving a $2 bill to pay the bill is the best idea; waiter’s reaction was rather confused
Table for two
Assorted fruit
Not so blue skies
Loading the outboard
Nungwi to Mnemba
Boarding
Choppy water
Bon voyage
Crew and passengers
Maybe our boat isn’t so bad after all
Driver
Gone fishing
After some scenic views around the island we arrived at a nearly private Mnemba Island before dropping anchor. Our dive master, my dad and I dove in and enjoyed a wonderful 50 minutes of diving at about 16 meters on a flat reef at Wattabomi. They were kind enough to loan out GoPros to experienced (read: not first time) divers so I was able to snap a few photos in the crystal-clear water. We didn’t see any creatures too out of the ordinary, but it blew previous dives I had done in Hawaii out of the water.
Approaching Mnemba
Privately owned and very strict with trespassers
Digging in
Hull
Starfish
Sure wish I had a casing for my dslr
Practicing sign language
Coral
School is in session
Hanging out at our safety stop
Back on board we waited for the other groups to find their way back to the boat while enjoying some fruit and pastries. Clearly I still breath way too fast down below. Eventually we pulled the anchor and headed to our second dive spot, Kichuani. This location was more of a wall of coral from two to 30 meters. We went down about 20 meters this time and rode the current with minimal effort. All of a sudden our guide started freaking out and once he had our attention, he pointed out a funky looking creature that looked like a dirty mop head. When we surfaced after our 55-minute dive he explained we had seen a Spanish Dancer fish, a type of sea slug. He had previously only seen it once in all of his diving and it was the name of the company. This dive was by far the better of the two between the sights and being much more comfortable with the equipment, setting and camera. It showcased lots of schools and more unique fish.
Albert Pujols cutting up some snacks
Popular snorkel spot
Trumpet fish
Look mom, no hands!
And no regulator
Hide and go seek
Choriaster granulatus
On a diet
Spanish dancer fish
A GoPro can show colors other than blue?
Time to head back up
Diving buddies
Again, once everyone was back on board they served up some chapatti wraps (vegetables) and watermelon for the ride home. The conditions had vastly improved so they raised the sail and got us back to Nungwi much faster than the outbound journey. Also, with calmer water we were able to drive much closer to shore and see the villages and towns along the route.
More snacks
Long walk on the beach
Anchor up
Sails up and farewell Mnemba
Nungwi lighthouse
Sunset dhow cruise boats
Pulling back into shore
Back on the beach we paid our $140 each and made our way back home to clean up for dinner. No local BBQ tonight so we decided to roam the beach which was overrun with locals playing all sorts of games before deciding to try Langi Langi which overlooked the water. I started with a Kilimanjaro beer and we were offered a potato soup on the house. Dad went with the seafood platter but wasn’t too thrilled by its mostly bland and well-done selections. My pweza wa nazi with spinach (coconut octopus) was enjoyable however. Exhausted from a long day in the sun we crashed shortly after dinner for our last night in Tanzania.
Back ashore
Local market
Buying a few Ndovu’s to bring home
Beach games
Football
Strolling the beach
Langi Langi
View from dinner
Soup and Kilimanjaro
Seafood platter
Pweza wa nazi
Not sure leaving a $2 bill to pay the bill is the best idea; waiter’s reaction was rather confused
Last edited by rivlinm; May 8, 2016 at 7:35 pm
May 9, 2016, 5:24 pm
#42
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Zanzibar, Tanzania [Stone Town] (ZNZ>NBO)
We relished our last morning in Zanzibar with a bit of relaxation. Our driver agreed to get us back to the airport with a couple hours to explore Stone Town along the way. We didn’t need to leave right away so after packing up we enjoyed a casual breakfast and I ran back to town to pick up a few postcards (which still haven’t arrived six weeks later).
I need some breakfast variety
Around 11:00 we headed south for the hour drive to Zanzibar’s government seat. Stone Town is the former capital of the Zanzibar Sultanate and has a wide array of influences including African, Arab, Persian, European and Indian. The UNESCO (2000) site is most notably known for its role in the slave and spice trades. We were dropped off along the main road by the Darajani Bazaar and immersed ourselves in the sights, sounds and smells of this predominantly food market. Although, there were some vendors selling basic home goods and even a couple enterprising tourist touts.
If Saul Goodman was Zanzibari
Fuelling up
Full service
WhatsApp ads everywhere
Darajani Bazaar
Pick your pile
Fish stalls
Produce department
Looks like the skill hasn’t been done in some time
March 20, 2016 Presidential Election winner
Eventually we made our way out to breath (fresh air) and began to meander toward the waterfront where most of the historic buildings stood. I didn’t have an exact route in mind so we just made lefts and rights as I felt appropriate until we arrived. Most of the narrow alleys reminded me of an Arab medina but most of the shops focused on selling art or other kitschy trinkets to tourists. Being mid day it was rather hot so I was happy when we reached our more open and breezy destination.
Carts for the narrow alleys
Eager to show me his pet
And we are not even in Kenya yet
Neighborhood watch
Artist
Coconut sales
Textile scraps
Our first stop was the Old Dispensary, one of Stone Town’s most decorated and symbolic buildings. It has had a bit of a tumultuous history, first being commissioned in 1887 to serve as a hospital for the poor and celebrate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria, but between some untimely deaths and budget issues it eventually was completed and served as a dispensary at the start of the 20th century. The government finally allowed for its restoration in 1994.
The Old Dispensary
Inner courtyard
Ferry terminal from Dar es Salaam
Freddie Mercury’s bar
Jackfruit
Next up on our self-guided tour was Beit al-Sahel or the Sultan’s Palace. Originally built to serve as the Sultan’s residence, it later was converted to a government office and now a museum. It’s condition didn’t appear to be all that stellar and I’m not convinced it is still an operating museum.
Suntan’s Palace
Could use a good white wash
Just next-door, was another historic landmark turned museum, turned dysfunctional museum. The House of Wonders or Palace of Wonders (Beit al-Ajaib) was built in 1883 to serve as the Sultan’s reception hall and is the largest structure in Stone Town, just across the street from Forodhani Gardens on the seawall. It was the first building in Zanzibar to have electricity.
Palace of Wonders
Not exactly in great condition either
Clock tower
Also, across from the gardens on Mizingani Road, was the Old Fort, the oldest structure in Zanzibar. The Omanis built the fort in the 17th century to protect themselves from the Portuguese. Now it serves as a courtyard and theater each night.
Fort entrance
Fort and Palace of Wonders
In the garden I used the last of our Shilling (30,000 Tsh) to buy some souvenirs including a local football kit. My dad was approached buy a local who used to live in the states but was deported when he was confused with a Somali by the same name. He was hopeful we could provide a lawyer for him. We made our way to the touristy market area of Stone Town along Shangani Street where there were all sorts of touts who could only be warded off by dipping inside an overpriced gallery with artic temperatures. Win, win. As we made it to the Post Office (where I should have mailed those postcards) our driver was waiting and whisked us off to the airport.
Fending off the Portuguese
Maybe I need to look up ‘floating’ again
Zanzibar Harbor
Forodhani Gardens
Shangani Street
At the airport we checked our bags to Nairobi after a bit of a delay and headed off to the lounge. By western standards, it was nothing special, but offered zippy wifi, free beer, a variety of only somewhat iffy looking small bites and air conditioning about as efficient as leaving your fridge open on a hot summer’s day. Well maybe not that bad. Our flight was never listed on the monitors but everyone assured us we were fine and one employee even offered to fetch us from the lounge, but I grew impatient and went down just a few minutes before boarding was called.
ZNZ check in
Dhow Lounge
One last Ndovu
Or three
Food options
Gate area
ZNZ terminal 1
Same ATR 72-500 as from JRO
PW (Precision Air) flight 713
Zanzibar, Tanzania (ZNZ) to Nairobi, Kenya (NBO)
Depart: 16:55, Arrive: 18:35, Time: 1:40
ATR 72-500, Seat 16C
No exit row this flight, just a woman painting her fingernails for the whole plane to enjoy. Inflight catering was the standard Precision Air drink and whole cashews. For entertainment the pilot was quick to point out attractions along our route, but when he mentioned a view of Kilimanjaro out the left side I think every passenger rushed across the aisle for a view. Upon landing (over Nairobi National Park) the left side also got a giraffe spotting.
Kilimanjaro off to the left side, not like I could even see through this window anyway
Otherwise a nice interior
Precision snacks
Baggage tractor pollution
Bus to terminal
After a nice bus ride to the newest terminal (replaced following the August 2013 electrical fire that destroyed the previous terminal) we joined the line labeled e-visa. The passengers in front hadn’t printed the form and their mobile devices were dying which created a huge delays and they tried to charge their phone at the booth. Once our turn, we were told this line was only for people without visas. Uh? Everyone groans and moves to the next line and after five minutes that agent decides it’s break time so everyone rushes from the foreigner line to the EAC (East African Community) line. And because three lines wasn’t enough the agent from the diplomat line beckons me over and I’m finally admitted to Kenya. Thankfully the terminal was nicely air-conditioned. Our bags were not surprisingly waiting for us and we exited the terminal to find a Fairmont representative ready to take us to Kenyan paradise. Or so we thought. He was just a contract employee and made a call for our car to be delivered. Twenty minutes and a few additional calls later, what looked to be a first time driver arrantly pulled up to the curb. Our representative took the keys to the beat up Eurocar rental while berating the first driver for taking so long. In the meantime, the airport security (armed with his assault rifle) begins laying into our driver for stopping in a no parking zone. Finally everyone cools their jets and our bags are loaded for the only somewhat awful ride through Nairobi rush hour. The 18 km route only took us 50 minutes, which in Nairobi is a near miracle. The main highway is burdened with multiple traffic circles, lights and pedestrians who walk where they please. Made for a fun ride, but it all paid off when we arrived at the Fairmont Norfolk.
Awfully nice new terminal
For those who don’t follow directions and need a visa on arrival
Time for line two
Waiting for the car
Parked on the Nairobi roadways
This history of the Norfolk is fascinating, dating back to 1904, it is often noted for being a leading factor in Nairobi being the capital of British East Africa and eventually Kenya (upon Independence in 1963). Originally serving as a gateway for Europeans on safari (hunting) it put Nairobi on the map. Between its geographic benefits and having a grand hotel like the Norfolk, the capital was moved from Mombasa to Nairobi in 1905. Over the years the property has expanded but not without its troubles. In 1922 a deadly demonstration was held outside to protest the imprisonment of African Nationalist pioneer Harry Thuku. Now the hotel lies on Harry Thuku Road. Also in 1980 the hotel was victim to a deadly bombing on New Year’s Eve.
We were checked in and given a very thorough tour of our room in the Acacia Wing but since we hadn’t really eaten a proper meal all day, headed to Lord Delamere Terrace for a nice meal. Lord Delamere was an early Norfolk owner and European colonialist. Having had Tusker already I went with a White Cap beer, which I really enjoyed. We had a great meal, but again I have to ask myself why did I order liver and ugali, two foods I have learned to dislike. After dinner we had to rearrange our belongings since we could only take 15 kg on safari the next morning. Finally after a long day it was off to sleep in the comforts of proper bedding and efficient air conditioning.
Welcome to the Norfolk
Spent a bit of time viewing the historical photos up and down the hall
Real beds?!
Bathroom
Welcome amenity
White Cap
Prosciutto and mozzarella
Maini (beef liver) and sukumu wiki (kale) – With ugali
Dad’s Moussaka
Lala salama; good night treat
I need some breakfast variety
Around 11:00 we headed south for the hour drive to Zanzibar’s government seat. Stone Town is the former capital of the Zanzibar Sultanate and has a wide array of influences including African, Arab, Persian, European and Indian. The UNESCO (2000) site is most notably known for its role in the slave and spice trades. We were dropped off along the main road by the Darajani Bazaar and immersed ourselves in the sights, sounds and smells of this predominantly food market. Although, there were some vendors selling basic home goods and even a couple enterprising tourist touts.
If Saul Goodman was Zanzibari
Fuelling up
Full service
WhatsApp ads everywhere
Darajani Bazaar
Pick your pile
Fish stalls
Produce department
Looks like the skill hasn’t been done in some time
March 20, 2016 Presidential Election winner
Eventually we made our way out to breath (fresh air) and began to meander toward the waterfront where most of the historic buildings stood. I didn’t have an exact route in mind so we just made lefts and rights as I felt appropriate until we arrived. Most of the narrow alleys reminded me of an Arab medina but most of the shops focused on selling art or other kitschy trinkets to tourists. Being mid day it was rather hot so I was happy when we reached our more open and breezy destination.
Carts for the narrow alleys
Eager to show me his pet
And we are not even in Kenya yet
Neighborhood watch
Artist
Coconut sales
Textile scraps
Our first stop was the Old Dispensary, one of Stone Town’s most decorated and symbolic buildings. It has had a bit of a tumultuous history, first being commissioned in 1887 to serve as a hospital for the poor and celebrate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria, but between some untimely deaths and budget issues it eventually was completed and served as a dispensary at the start of the 20th century. The government finally allowed for its restoration in 1994.
The Old Dispensary
Inner courtyard
Ferry terminal from Dar es Salaam
Freddie Mercury’s bar
Jackfruit
Next up on our self-guided tour was Beit al-Sahel or the Sultan’s Palace. Originally built to serve as the Sultan’s residence, it later was converted to a government office and now a museum. It’s condition didn’t appear to be all that stellar and I’m not convinced it is still an operating museum.
Suntan’s Palace
Could use a good white wash
Just next-door, was another historic landmark turned museum, turned dysfunctional museum. The House of Wonders or Palace of Wonders (Beit al-Ajaib) was built in 1883 to serve as the Sultan’s reception hall and is the largest structure in Stone Town, just across the street from Forodhani Gardens on the seawall. It was the first building in Zanzibar to have electricity.
Palace of Wonders
Not exactly in great condition either
Clock tower
Also, across from the gardens on Mizingani Road, was the Old Fort, the oldest structure in Zanzibar. The Omanis built the fort in the 17th century to protect themselves from the Portuguese. Now it serves as a courtyard and theater each night.
Fort entrance
Fort and Palace of Wonders
In the garden I used the last of our Shilling (30,000 Tsh) to buy some souvenirs including a local football kit. My dad was approached buy a local who used to live in the states but was deported when he was confused with a Somali by the same name. He was hopeful we could provide a lawyer for him. We made our way to the touristy market area of Stone Town along Shangani Street where there were all sorts of touts who could only be warded off by dipping inside an overpriced gallery with artic temperatures. Win, win. As we made it to the Post Office (where I should have mailed those postcards) our driver was waiting and whisked us off to the airport.
Fending off the Portuguese
Maybe I need to look up ‘floating’ again
Zanzibar Harbor
Forodhani Gardens
Shangani Street
At the airport we checked our bags to Nairobi after a bit of a delay and headed off to the lounge. By western standards, it was nothing special, but offered zippy wifi, free beer, a variety of only somewhat iffy looking small bites and air conditioning about as efficient as leaving your fridge open on a hot summer’s day. Well maybe not that bad. Our flight was never listed on the monitors but everyone assured us we were fine and one employee even offered to fetch us from the lounge, but I grew impatient and went down just a few minutes before boarding was called.
ZNZ check in
Dhow Lounge
One last Ndovu
Or three
Food options
Gate area
ZNZ terminal 1
Same ATR 72-500 as from JRO
PW (Precision Air) flight 713
Zanzibar, Tanzania (ZNZ) to Nairobi, Kenya (NBO)
Depart: 16:55, Arrive: 18:35, Time: 1:40
ATR 72-500, Seat 16C
No exit row this flight, just a woman painting her fingernails for the whole plane to enjoy. Inflight catering was the standard Precision Air drink and whole cashews. For entertainment the pilot was quick to point out attractions along our route, but when he mentioned a view of Kilimanjaro out the left side I think every passenger rushed across the aisle for a view. Upon landing (over Nairobi National Park) the left side also got a giraffe spotting.
Kilimanjaro off to the left side, not like I could even see through this window anyway
Otherwise a nice interior
Precision snacks
Baggage tractor pollution
Bus to terminal
After a nice bus ride to the newest terminal (replaced following the August 2013 electrical fire that destroyed the previous terminal) we joined the line labeled e-visa. The passengers in front hadn’t printed the form and their mobile devices were dying which created a huge delays and they tried to charge their phone at the booth. Once our turn, we were told this line was only for people without visas. Uh? Everyone groans and moves to the next line and after five minutes that agent decides it’s break time so everyone rushes from the foreigner line to the EAC (East African Community) line. And because three lines wasn’t enough the agent from the diplomat line beckons me over and I’m finally admitted to Kenya. Thankfully the terminal was nicely air-conditioned. Our bags were not surprisingly waiting for us and we exited the terminal to find a Fairmont representative ready to take us to Kenyan paradise. Or so we thought. He was just a contract employee and made a call for our car to be delivered. Twenty minutes and a few additional calls later, what looked to be a first time driver arrantly pulled up to the curb. Our representative took the keys to the beat up Eurocar rental while berating the first driver for taking so long. In the meantime, the airport security (armed with his assault rifle) begins laying into our driver for stopping in a no parking zone. Finally everyone cools their jets and our bags are loaded for the only somewhat awful ride through Nairobi rush hour. The 18 km route only took us 50 minutes, which in Nairobi is a near miracle. The main highway is burdened with multiple traffic circles, lights and pedestrians who walk where they please. Made for a fun ride, but it all paid off when we arrived at the Fairmont Norfolk.
Awfully nice new terminal
For those who don’t follow directions and need a visa on arrival
Time for line two
Waiting for the car
Parked on the Nairobi roadways
This history of the Norfolk is fascinating, dating back to 1904, it is often noted for being a leading factor in Nairobi being the capital of British East Africa and eventually Kenya (upon Independence in 1963). Originally serving as a gateway for Europeans on safari (hunting) it put Nairobi on the map. Between its geographic benefits and having a grand hotel like the Norfolk, the capital was moved from Mombasa to Nairobi in 1905. Over the years the property has expanded but not without its troubles. In 1922 a deadly demonstration was held outside to protest the imprisonment of African Nationalist pioneer Harry Thuku. Now the hotel lies on Harry Thuku Road. Also in 1980 the hotel was victim to a deadly bombing on New Year’s Eve.
We were checked in and given a very thorough tour of our room in the Acacia Wing but since we hadn’t really eaten a proper meal all day, headed to Lord Delamere Terrace for a nice meal. Lord Delamere was an early Norfolk owner and European colonialist. Having had Tusker already I went with a White Cap beer, which I really enjoyed. We had a great meal, but again I have to ask myself why did I order liver and ugali, two foods I have learned to dislike. After dinner we had to rearrange our belongings since we could only take 15 kg on safari the next morning. Finally after a long day it was off to sleep in the comforts of proper bedding and efficient air conditioning.
Welcome to the Norfolk
Spent a bit of time viewing the historical photos up and down the hall
Real beds?!
Bathroom
Welcome amenity
White Cap
Prosciutto and mozzarella
Maini (beef liver) and sukumu wiki (kale) – With ugali
Dad’s Moussaka
Lala salama; good night treat
May 10, 2016, 8:57 pm
#43
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Mara, Kenya (WIL>MRE) [PART I]
Our flight to Masai Mara wasn’t until 10:00 so we were able to sleep in a bit before some last minute packing. I took a few photos of the grounds (very tranquil) in the daylight and our ride was ready so we checked out and headed toward Nairobi Wilson Airport (WIL) to check in with Air Kenya.
Henry Thuku Road
The Norfolk
Real security; unlike so many other places in the world. Every bag goes through an x-ray.
Reception
Lobby
Main courtyard
One of a number of historic vehicles in the courtyard
Back gardens
The pool
Corner room
Courtyard view
Being Good Friday we were spared of Nairobi traffic and made it to Wilson in just 20 minutes. Upon entering I pointed out our names on their reservation manifest to confirm our booking and they weighed all of our bags (combined) before checking the bigger one. We only used 17 kg of our allotted 30. Security for actual passengers was rather minimal. Once inside they matched our passports to their list again and issued color-coded boarding cards.
Police station
Wilson Airport
Check in counters
Our flight
Black boarding card
We had about 40 minutes to wait and the gate area was a step above any normal airport, but not quite worthy of being called a lounge. It was swarming with children. I guess the blessing of traffic free Good Friday comes with the cost of families traveling for the long weekend (They also get “Easter Monday” off). The cost of this return flight stung when I purchased online ($360) but it was certainly a fun experience. I still didn’t know what aircraft would be operating nor what stop we would be. The WIL to MRE (Masai Mara airstrips) route is more like a bus route. A number of safari facilities are scattered across the Southwest of Kenya and depending on the number of passengers for each, they drop off and pick up from a variety of airstrips. Eventually I learned we would be first, so no extra takeoffs and landings. Air Kenya operates a mix of Dash 6, Dash 7 and Cessna 208’s depending on demand. I was certainly rooting for a Dash 7 given its rarity. Boarding took a play out of the United playbook as they announced pre boarding for families with children. Except everyone had a child today. Seating was Southwest style, but my dad and I got a C-list boarding pass.
Gate area
Small café
Children running everywhere
Boarding for Diani South Coast (just south of Mombasa)
There it is! Dash 7 afterall
Four spinner
5Y-CDK
At least it isn’t square
Only 113 built
Bit of a boring paint job
P2 (Airkenya Express) flight 853
Nairobi Wilson, Kenya (WIL) to Mara - Ngerende, Kenya (MRE)
Depart: 10:50, Arrive: 11:26, Time: 0:36
DHC-7-100, Seat 8D
Onboard we found two seats right beside the propeller with another heavily scratched window. A quick safety demonstration was performed and before I knew it we were in the air. At our cruising altitude of 12,000 feet they provided a mint and before we knew it began our descent. The terrain, as its name, Masai Mara, suggests, was a spotted plain. The Ngerende Airstrip runs right along a few kinks in the Mara River. About ten of us deplaned and they fetched the bags as we pointed them out. Ours had already been pulled and loaded in the jeep so there was a brief moment of panic. Just as fast as the plane arrived, it fired up the left side props again and headed back to the airstrip for its ensuing departure. We were all warmly welcomed with a cool towel and some refreshing drinks before our driver Henry introduced himself and we were off to the camp ten minutes down the road.
At least you can stand
A few rear facing seats
Safety demonstration
Meal service
At least it wasn’t dripping on me…
Another quality window as we approached the Mara
So where is the airport?
Who needs tarmac?
Popular vehicle in this part of town
Welcome drinks
Cold towel
Some other drink
The whole road is bumpy, not sure why they need a sign
Mara River
Camp sweet camp for the next three nights
We’ve arrived
Once we reached the main lodge we were matched with another member of the staff who led us to our private tent at the end of the property. Tent 11 was just beside the Hippo Corner and had an excellent view of the bend in the river. We were shown how to close the tent flaps and windows and how the lights operated. With about an hour until lunch we roamed the property to see what it had to offer. The entire 51 tent facility (along with lodge, pool, parking lot and staff facility) was nestled in a big bend of the river and the one open side was gated with an electric fence to keep the animals out. Or maybe the people in. The riverbanks were steep enough that even the most motivated of hippos or crocs couldn’t climb the embankment, but just snort really loud. All day (and night) long!
Entry yurts
Reception
Library
Lodge
Fireplace
Bar
Dining room
Outdoor dining
Deck overlooking the Mara
Pool
Massage tent
Five minute stroll to the tent
Tent #11
Frontporch
Flips to a do not disturb sign
Not your typical tent
That’s why the call it glamping
The study
Bathroom area
Toilet to the left and shower to the right
Obligatory toilet shot
Who knew tents can have showers
Hippo Corner
Great lookout over the river
The corner that keeps you up at night
Butterflies everywhere on the property
Perimeter fence
Back at the lodge we kicked off our first meal by trying to eat one of everything. The quality and variety of the food was very nice, but after three days, buffets became blasé. We were offered the soup of the day along with some fresh bread before helping ourselves. Today’s meal included a carving station, but we never saw that again. Stuffed, we retreated back to the tent to take in the atmosphere around camp and search for a hippo. With the sun directly overhead most every hippo was fully submerged to keep cool underwater and came to the surface seldom. The local Masai villagers were herding their livestock on the other side of the river to the sound of bells ringing, goats bleating and villagers making whatever sound villagers make. They were very friendly and would always wave when they saw us.
Daily bread
Tomato soup
Salads and cheese
Fish, ham and pork rib
Dessert selections
The villagers herding
Hide and go seek with the hippos
***Please stay tuned for the second part of the day including our first game drive.***
Henry Thuku Road
The Norfolk
Real security; unlike so many other places in the world. Every bag goes through an x-ray.
Reception
Lobby
Main courtyard
One of a number of historic vehicles in the courtyard
Back gardens
The pool
Corner room
Courtyard view
Being Good Friday we were spared of Nairobi traffic and made it to Wilson in just 20 minutes. Upon entering I pointed out our names on their reservation manifest to confirm our booking and they weighed all of our bags (combined) before checking the bigger one. We only used 17 kg of our allotted 30. Security for actual passengers was rather minimal. Once inside they matched our passports to their list again and issued color-coded boarding cards.
Police station
Wilson Airport
Check in counters
Our flight
Black boarding card
We had about 40 minutes to wait and the gate area was a step above any normal airport, but not quite worthy of being called a lounge. It was swarming with children. I guess the blessing of traffic free Good Friday comes with the cost of families traveling for the long weekend (They also get “Easter Monday” off). The cost of this return flight stung when I purchased online ($360) but it was certainly a fun experience. I still didn’t know what aircraft would be operating nor what stop we would be. The WIL to MRE (Masai Mara airstrips) route is more like a bus route. A number of safari facilities are scattered across the Southwest of Kenya and depending on the number of passengers for each, they drop off and pick up from a variety of airstrips. Eventually I learned we would be first, so no extra takeoffs and landings. Air Kenya operates a mix of Dash 6, Dash 7 and Cessna 208’s depending on demand. I was certainly rooting for a Dash 7 given its rarity. Boarding took a play out of the United playbook as they announced pre boarding for families with children. Except everyone had a child today. Seating was Southwest style, but my dad and I got a C-list boarding pass.
Gate area
Small café
Children running everywhere
Boarding for Diani South Coast (just south of Mombasa)
There it is! Dash 7 afterall
Four spinner
5Y-CDK
At least it isn’t square
Only 113 built
Bit of a boring paint job
P2 (Airkenya Express) flight 853
Nairobi Wilson, Kenya (WIL) to Mara - Ngerende, Kenya (MRE)
Depart: 10:50, Arrive: 11:26, Time: 0:36
DHC-7-100, Seat 8D
Onboard we found two seats right beside the propeller with another heavily scratched window. A quick safety demonstration was performed and before I knew it we were in the air. At our cruising altitude of 12,000 feet they provided a mint and before we knew it began our descent. The terrain, as its name, Masai Mara, suggests, was a spotted plain. The Ngerende Airstrip runs right along a few kinks in the Mara River. About ten of us deplaned and they fetched the bags as we pointed them out. Ours had already been pulled and loaded in the jeep so there was a brief moment of panic. Just as fast as the plane arrived, it fired up the left side props again and headed back to the airstrip for its ensuing departure. We were all warmly welcomed with a cool towel and some refreshing drinks before our driver Henry introduced himself and we were off to the camp ten minutes down the road.
At least you can stand
A few rear facing seats
Safety demonstration
Meal service
At least it wasn’t dripping on me…
Another quality window as we approached the Mara
So where is the airport?
Who needs tarmac?
Popular vehicle in this part of town
Welcome drinks
Cold towel
Some other drink
The whole road is bumpy, not sure why they need a sign
Mara River
Camp sweet camp for the next three nights
We’ve arrived
Once we reached the main lodge we were matched with another member of the staff who led us to our private tent at the end of the property. Tent 11 was just beside the Hippo Corner and had an excellent view of the bend in the river. We were shown how to close the tent flaps and windows and how the lights operated. With about an hour until lunch we roamed the property to see what it had to offer. The entire 51 tent facility (along with lodge, pool, parking lot and staff facility) was nestled in a big bend of the river and the one open side was gated with an electric fence to keep the animals out. Or maybe the people in. The riverbanks were steep enough that even the most motivated of hippos or crocs couldn’t climb the embankment, but just snort really loud. All day (and night) long!
Entry yurts
Reception
Library
Lodge
Fireplace
Bar
Dining room
Outdoor dining
Deck overlooking the Mara
Pool
Massage tent
Five minute stroll to the tent
Tent #11
Frontporch
Flips to a do not disturb sign
Not your typical tent
That’s why the call it glamping
The study
Bathroom area
Toilet to the left and shower to the right
Obligatory toilet shot
Who knew tents can have showers
Hippo Corner
Great lookout over the river
The corner that keeps you up at night
Butterflies everywhere on the property
Perimeter fence
Back at the lodge we kicked off our first meal by trying to eat one of everything. The quality and variety of the food was very nice, but after three days, buffets became blasé. We were offered the soup of the day along with some fresh bread before helping ourselves. Today’s meal included a carving station, but we never saw that again. Stuffed, we retreated back to the tent to take in the atmosphere around camp and search for a hippo. With the sun directly overhead most every hippo was fully submerged to keep cool underwater and came to the surface seldom. The local Masai villagers were herding their livestock on the other side of the river to the sound of bells ringing, goats bleating and villagers making whatever sound villagers make. They were very friendly and would always wave when they saw us.
Daily bread
Tomato soup
Salads and cheese
Fish, ham and pork rib
Dessert selections
The villagers herding
Hide and go seek with the hippos
***Please stay tuned for the second part of the day including our first game drive.***
May 11, 2016, 9:37 am
#44
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: East Ester, Alaska
Programs: Alaska Million Miler, United Million Miler, Wyndham Rewards Diamond, Choice Hotels Diamond
Posts: 12,148
The Mountain Inn looks like my kind of place. So does Qatar. Thanks for the work you've put into this report so far... ^
May 11, 2016, 3:32 pm
#45
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Mara, Kenya (WIL>MRE) [PART II]
Finally just before 15:30 the moment we had all been waiting for, Safari! We had been matched with a Kenyan family for our game drives but since they had just arrived, decided not to join this afternoon. That meant a private drive for dad and myself, which was certainly a bonus as we could get all sorts of photos of the basic animals at our pace without feeling as if we are holding others back. We hadn’t even left the property before I spotted the rarest of species.
African grass muncher
Game Drive #1: Safari 101
Having never been on a true safari (the abysmal Singapore Night Safari certainly doesn’t count) I was ready to see anything and everything. Henry first set our expectations about the Big 5. Back in the days of the colonialist coming down for safari (read: to hunt) there were five species that had a reputation for not being an easy target since they would fight back. In order of elusiveness (from the most) the Big 5 includes: Leopard, Rhino, Elephant, Lion and Buffalo. (In other regions certain animals may be more easily located)
Our first real sighting was the common zebra. These guys are everywhere and it didn’t take long for us to drive by a zeal (yes, that is what a group of zebra is called) without paying them any attention.
A zealous zeal
Staring contest
Grazing
When Henry fired back up the engine, we got the hint and realized we had enough photos of zebras for a few lifetimes. Next up, another frequent tenant of the Mara, was the Thompson Gazelle. This small gathering was mostly just mothers and their children, but they quickly departed as we neared. We would see them often and eventually more intimately.
Thompson Gazelle
Run
Baby in the distance
As the gazelles cleared our path, we approached some wildebeest. This time of year the great migration is south of the border in Tanzania (Serengeti National Park). The birthing was going on and by May they would begin to head north and eventually reach Kenya by late summer or early fall. There are however some locals who live fulltime in the Mara.
Loan wildebeest
On the other side of the 4WD were some Topi Antelope. These guys were pretty shy and slowly walked away, but were often seen alongside the wildebeest.
Topi Antelope
BFF
With nothing but zebras as far as the eye could see we headed for a path across the plains and surprised some baboons enjoying their lunch. The baboons seemed to always hangout along the road and liked showing us their back side or hiding in the tall grass.
Lunch for one
MY Jackal
Lookout
We circled around for a bit and viewed a wide array of creatures sharing the same neighborhood. Besides the usual zebras and Thompson gazelles we encountered a flock of ostrich, a jackal, warthogs (too short to see in the long grass), waterbucks, and some eland (common) antelope.
Flock of ostrich
Don’t flap your wings, we know you can’t fly
The rooster
Jackal
Defassa Waterbuck with the white rear
Eland herd
Eland Antelope
The distinct pattern of the Thompson Gazelle
Feeding
In the meantime while we were enjoying the variety of species a bunch of other vehicles were driving right by without any pause. As we would learn, that was a sign of something much more appealing ahead. Clearly we were all rookies as in the distance we could see a tower of giraffe. (I don’t make these names up!) So with that we rushed over to explore mom and children. (And maybe someone else’s child.)
I spy something tall
Going for a walk
Watching over her friends
Look Mom! I can watch too
Kiddos
Mom and child
Someday you’ll be tall like me
Learning to run
Spots
Stripes
Latecomers rushing to see the giraffes
Drinking doesn’t look easy
Up close
Tail waving
Very svelte
Spotted plains
As we moved on we saw a couple of impala. (Now that is an illogical collective noun) Impala segregate in one of three ways. All female, all male or like this specific heard led by its territorial male.
Couple of impala
The territorial male
In the distance we saw a tight cluster of vehicles and our driver kept saying simba over the radio, so I had a hunch of what lie ahead. When we arrived we discovered the wounded and ailing lion. His mane was mangled and scars across his torso and tail. He was the first of our Big 5 sightings, but the least active. Even the hippos were more fun.
Wounded warrior
Nap time
Fellow safari goer enjoying the lion
Quick look around
I’d like to see the other guy
As we were leaving the resting lion the park’s rangers came up and wanted to check our driver’s list of passengers to make sure everyone had paid.
Rangers
Lemek Conservancy
A bit of a way from the lion we spotted a herd of Coke’s Hartebeests and our second from the Big 5, a Cape Buffalo. These buffalo are not what I imagined after traveling to the American West many summers, but I still wouldn’t mess with them.
Coke’s Hartebeests
Little horns
Jackals scrounging for a kill
Cape buffalo herd
Never wanted to look up
The sun was starting to get low so we positioned ourselves to get some sunset shots.
Pre sunset
Guinea Fowl
Let the sunset begin already!
Henry knew just where to park for the perfect shot
Oddly the photos were more memorable than the actual sunset
So long first day of safari
Or so we thought! As we began the drive back we soon found out we were in for a nice surprise. Headed straight at us was a pair of lionesses who seemed hungry for dinner.
Well look what we have here
Looking for supper
Quite a menacing look
It’s the lioness who usually does the hunting
Whiskers
Eyes full of flies
Settling in for the night
Yawn
Goodnight
***
Safari 101 stats
Distance: 21.56 mi/34.7 km
Duration: 3:49:59
Max Speed: 32.1 mph
Game Drive #1: Safari 101 Route
After the ten-minute drive back in complete darkness we were back at the lodge where the local Masai villagers were putting on a show for us. (One we would observe many times over our stay.) Dinner had just begun so we chose a table inside since it had cooled down considerably and enjoyed soup to get started. As with lunch, there were a wide variety of choices including salads, meats, fish and pasta. We finished off the night with dessert and headed back to the tent. Alarming as I slipped between the sheets there was a scalding hot water bag. Outside it continued to cool throughout the night and by morning the reservoir was still warm and beneficial at that hour. I easily dossed off to count hippos in my dreams.
Masai Villagers
Pre dinner Tusker
Soup
Dinner selection #1
Main entrées
Good night snack
Holly hot!
African grass muncher
Game Drive #1: Safari 101
Having never been on a true safari (the abysmal Singapore Night Safari certainly doesn’t count) I was ready to see anything and everything. Henry first set our expectations about the Big 5. Back in the days of the colonialist coming down for safari (read: to hunt) there were five species that had a reputation for not being an easy target since they would fight back. In order of elusiveness (from the most) the Big 5 includes: Leopard, Rhino, Elephant, Lion and Buffalo. (In other regions certain animals may be more easily located)
Our first real sighting was the common zebra. These guys are everywhere and it didn’t take long for us to drive by a zeal (yes, that is what a group of zebra is called) without paying them any attention.
A zealous zeal
Staring contest
Grazing
When Henry fired back up the engine, we got the hint and realized we had enough photos of zebras for a few lifetimes. Next up, another frequent tenant of the Mara, was the Thompson Gazelle. This small gathering was mostly just mothers and their children, but they quickly departed as we neared. We would see them often and eventually more intimately.
Thompson Gazelle
Run
Baby in the distance
As the gazelles cleared our path, we approached some wildebeest. This time of year the great migration is south of the border in Tanzania (Serengeti National Park). The birthing was going on and by May they would begin to head north and eventually reach Kenya by late summer or early fall. There are however some locals who live fulltime in the Mara.
Loan wildebeest
On the other side of the 4WD were some Topi Antelope. These guys were pretty shy and slowly walked away, but were often seen alongside the wildebeest.
Topi Antelope
BFF
With nothing but zebras as far as the eye could see we headed for a path across the plains and surprised some baboons enjoying their lunch. The baboons seemed to always hangout along the road and liked showing us their back side or hiding in the tall grass.
Lunch for one
MY Jackal
Lookout
We circled around for a bit and viewed a wide array of creatures sharing the same neighborhood. Besides the usual zebras and Thompson gazelles we encountered a flock of ostrich, a jackal, warthogs (too short to see in the long grass), waterbucks, and some eland (common) antelope.
Flock of ostrich
Don’t flap your wings, we know you can’t fly
The rooster
Jackal
Defassa Waterbuck with the white rear
Eland herd
Eland Antelope
The distinct pattern of the Thompson Gazelle
Feeding
In the meantime while we were enjoying the variety of species a bunch of other vehicles were driving right by without any pause. As we would learn, that was a sign of something much more appealing ahead. Clearly we were all rookies as in the distance we could see a tower of giraffe. (I don’t make these names up!) So with that we rushed over to explore mom and children. (And maybe someone else’s child.)
I spy something tall
Going for a walk
Watching over her friends
Look Mom! I can watch too
Kiddos
Mom and child
Someday you’ll be tall like me
Learning to run
Spots
Stripes
Latecomers rushing to see the giraffes
Drinking doesn’t look easy
Up close
Tail waving
Very svelte
Spotted plains
As we moved on we saw a couple of impala. (Now that is an illogical collective noun) Impala segregate in one of three ways. All female, all male or like this specific heard led by its territorial male.
Couple of impala
The territorial male
In the distance we saw a tight cluster of vehicles and our driver kept saying simba over the radio, so I had a hunch of what lie ahead. When we arrived we discovered the wounded and ailing lion. His mane was mangled and scars across his torso and tail. He was the first of our Big 5 sightings, but the least active. Even the hippos were more fun.
Wounded warrior
Nap time
Fellow safari goer enjoying the lion
Quick look around
I’d like to see the other guy
As we were leaving the resting lion the park’s rangers came up and wanted to check our driver’s list of passengers to make sure everyone had paid.
Rangers
Lemek Conservancy
A bit of a way from the lion we spotted a herd of Coke’s Hartebeests and our second from the Big 5, a Cape Buffalo. These buffalo are not what I imagined after traveling to the American West many summers, but I still wouldn’t mess with them.
Coke’s Hartebeests
Little horns
Jackals scrounging for a kill
Cape buffalo herd
Never wanted to look up
The sun was starting to get low so we positioned ourselves to get some sunset shots.
Pre sunset
Guinea Fowl
Let the sunset begin already!
Henry knew just where to park for the perfect shot
Oddly the photos were more memorable than the actual sunset
So long first day of safari
Or so we thought! As we began the drive back we soon found out we were in for a nice surprise. Headed straight at us was a pair of lionesses who seemed hungry for dinner.
Well look what we have here
Looking for supper
Quite a menacing look
It’s the lioness who usually does the hunting
Whiskers
Eyes full of flies
Settling in for the night
Yawn
Goodnight
***
Safari 101 stats
Distance: 21.56 mi/34.7 km
Duration: 3:49:59
Max Speed: 32.1 mph
Game Drive #1: Safari 101 Route
After the ten-minute drive back in complete darkness we were back at the lodge where the local Masai villagers were putting on a show for us. (One we would observe many times over our stay.) Dinner had just begun so we chose a table inside since it had cooled down considerably and enjoyed soup to get started. As with lunch, there were a wide variety of choices including salads, meats, fish and pasta. We finished off the night with dessert and headed back to the tent. Alarming as I slipped between the sheets there was a scalding hot water bag. Outside it continued to cool throughout the night and by morning the reservoir was still warm and beneficial at that hour. I easily dossed off to count hippos in my dreams.
Masai Villagers
Pre dinner Tusker
Soup
Dinner selection #1
Main entrées
Good night snack
Holly hot!
Last edited by rivlinm; May 12, 2016 at 4:48 pm