From Summit to Safari (Tanzania, Zanzibar, Kenya and Ghana) (QR A350, BA J; PW, P2,
Apr 12, 2016, 7:33 am
#16
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I love your careful cataloguing of the beers. I remember arriving in Tanzania after months of overland travel through Africa (many years ago, admittedly) and delightedly discovering Bingwa beer, which was not only flavoursome and strong (7% abv) but also came in oversized bottles (500ml I think). Devastatingly effective at inducing coma-like levels of relaxation when consumed in the heat of the middle of the day...
I love your careful cataloguing of the beers. I remember arriving in Tanzania after months of overland travel through Africa (many years ago, admittedly) and delightedly discovering Bingwa beer, which was not only flavoursome and strong (7% abv) but also came in oversized bottles (500ml I think). Devastatingly effective at inducing coma-like levels of relaxation when consumed in the heat of the middle of the day...
Apr 12, 2016, 9:31 am
#17
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and part 2 at
Apr 29, 2016, 8:35 pm
#19
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Kilimanjaro (Day 1 – Simba Camp)
At long last, trek day had arrived. I had no delay in arising from the stagnant air and heading to breakfast by 7:00. We had the typical fruit and a watermelon juice along with omelet, toast and sausage. After a few last emails and texts we checked our suitcases with the hotel and handed over our packs to be weighed (had to be under 15kg) and loaded on the bus. We were all well under at about 10-11 kg, but as the trek progressed we began to only carry the essentials in our day bag and loaded more on the porter’s shoulders. (as suggested by our guide John)
Just the beginning of our week-long fruit buffet
Watermelon juice
The main course
Weigh in: 11kg for porter’s bag, 8kg for day bag
Loading the bus
Fully loaded, we set off on our rather long drive. Since we selected the Rongai route we needed to drive completely around the mountain to the north side along the Kenyan/Tanzanian border. Before we could do that though we would have to stop at the park’s main gate (Marunga) to sign in. We hardly were driving five minutes before our crew realized they had left the all-important thermos behind. Rather than turn around, they asked a member of the local taxi-bike mafia to drive back and fetch it. Without further delay we made our way east and passed a slew of roadside towns with all sorts of sights.
Nice Kili views along the route
Packs of bikers just sit along the road waiting to be of service to anyone on foot
A few shillings for running an errand
Sure we are south of the equator, (~3.3 deg S) but is a summer coat really necessary?
Passing
MDOT (Moshi Department of Transportation)
While the crew sorted out the final details with the park we enjoyed a good pestering by some locals who wanted to place dibs on our gear (and money) when we returned. Eventually we found a quiet pavilion with some figures about the mountain and its history. Its first successful accent was in 1889 by German Hans Meyer and Austrian Ludwig Purtscheller. More impressively was the plaque devoted to other achievements such as the fastest accent and descent in an astonishing six hours and 42 minutes. Even though no one under age ten is allowed above 3,700 m individuals between ages seven and 85 have summited the mountain. Once we were back on the road, we had about two hours of driving through some pretty small, but bustling towns before eventually reaching the gate for the Rongai route. Just before arriving at the gate, we stopped to let the crew purchase a few last items and we were given a box lunch.
Arrived, sorta
Karibu
Park rules and rates
Trying to price out everything we own
Avoiding our new friends atop the bus
Tanzanian students attempting the climb without porters
Look mom! No hands!
The km long stretch of road where banana buyers meet banana sellers
Concentration
Cheating with a hand
Carts: for those who are not capable of holding 20-25kg of bananas on their head
Show off
Avocado town
Finally a hands free banana woman
IKEA
Lunch box
Roadside schoolyard
Someone forgot their uniform
Must be getting close to the mountain
Once at Rongai, the porters went about their business to weigh in (park regulations) and we signed in again before heading down the trail. When we first began, I thought we would never make it. I think a sloth would have passed us at the pace we were held to. I suspect our assistant guide, Samuel, was just getting a feel for everyone’s abilities, as we eventually sped up and were on our way. At one point my dad took a bit of a spill, but just brushed it off and carried on without much thought. The first half of today’s ‘walk’ was across some farmland as we encountered the occasional home or farmer along the way. Eventually we took more of a trail than the road, but it was never particularly steep. About 2/3 of the way to Simba Camp the porters passed us and it began to spit a bit, but not enough to really take notice.
Signing in
The only visitors today!
Last clean photo
Where the trail (or road) begins
Photo stop one of thousands
Tracking steps
Last chance for brown bananas
Putting a bandage on the knee
Porter passing
Just as heavy as the bananas
One of the few inclines
Kenya
Taking a little break with the hunchback of Notre Dame
Finally at 16:30 we arrived at Simba Camp with the rain luckily skipping us (a perk of hiking on the north side). We tossed our bags in the tent and relaxed for a bit before being served tea and popcorn. Dinner followed shortly after and consisted of soup, potatoes, chewy beef stew and an avocado slice. My dad’s knee had really tightened up since we arrived in camp and he struggled to get back to his tent. While we didn’t walk all that far, or at a high elevation, we were ready for bed and headed to sleep after a successful day one.
We’ve arrived
Simba Camp
Ranger’s cabin (they work ten day shifts)
Signing in for tonight’s camp with John
No bathroom was the same all trek, but this one was tolerable
It even came with a guide
And now time for food
Dining tent setup
Soup kicked off every dinner
Potatoes and vegetables
Beef stew
Avocado
***
Today’s Data
Distance: 4.38 mi, 7.05 km
Time 3:04:00
Camp Elevation: 8763’, 2671m
Daily Elevation Change: +2099’, +640m
Average Pace: 42:06 min/mile
Hike to Simba Camp
Overall Progress
Just the beginning of our week-long fruit buffet
Watermelon juice
The main course
Weigh in: 11kg for porter’s bag, 8kg for day bag
Loading the bus
Fully loaded, we set off on our rather long drive. Since we selected the Rongai route we needed to drive completely around the mountain to the north side along the Kenyan/Tanzanian border. Before we could do that though we would have to stop at the park’s main gate (Marunga) to sign in. We hardly were driving five minutes before our crew realized they had left the all-important thermos behind. Rather than turn around, they asked a member of the local taxi-bike mafia to drive back and fetch it. Without further delay we made our way east and passed a slew of roadside towns with all sorts of sights.
Nice Kili views along the route
Packs of bikers just sit along the road waiting to be of service to anyone on foot
A few shillings for running an errand
Sure we are south of the equator, (~3.3 deg S) but is a summer coat really necessary?
Passing
MDOT (Moshi Department of Transportation)
While the crew sorted out the final details with the park we enjoyed a good pestering by some locals who wanted to place dibs on our gear (and money) when we returned. Eventually we found a quiet pavilion with some figures about the mountain and its history. Its first successful accent was in 1889 by German Hans Meyer and Austrian Ludwig Purtscheller. More impressively was the plaque devoted to other achievements such as the fastest accent and descent in an astonishing six hours and 42 minutes. Even though no one under age ten is allowed above 3,700 m individuals between ages seven and 85 have summited the mountain. Once we were back on the road, we had about two hours of driving through some pretty small, but bustling towns before eventually reaching the gate for the Rongai route. Just before arriving at the gate, we stopped to let the crew purchase a few last items and we were given a box lunch.
Arrived, sorta
Karibu
Park rules and rates
Trying to price out everything we own
Avoiding our new friends atop the bus
Tanzanian students attempting the climb without porters
Look mom! No hands!
The km long stretch of road where banana buyers meet banana sellers
Concentration
Cheating with a hand
Carts: for those who are not capable of holding 20-25kg of bananas on their head
Show off
Avocado town
Finally a hands free banana woman
IKEA
Lunch box
Roadside schoolyard
Someone forgot their uniform
Must be getting close to the mountain
Once at Rongai, the porters went about their business to weigh in (park regulations) and we signed in again before heading down the trail. When we first began, I thought we would never make it. I think a sloth would have passed us at the pace we were held to. I suspect our assistant guide, Samuel, was just getting a feel for everyone’s abilities, as we eventually sped up and were on our way. At one point my dad took a bit of a spill, but just brushed it off and carried on without much thought. The first half of today’s ‘walk’ was across some farmland as we encountered the occasional home or farmer along the way. Eventually we took more of a trail than the road, but it was never particularly steep. About 2/3 of the way to Simba Camp the porters passed us and it began to spit a bit, but not enough to really take notice.
Signing in
The only visitors today!
Last clean photo
Where the trail (or road) begins
Photo stop one of thousands
Tracking steps
Last chance for brown bananas
Putting a bandage on the knee
Porter passing
Just as heavy as the bananas
One of the few inclines
Kenya
Taking a little break with the hunchback of Notre Dame
Finally at 16:30 we arrived at Simba Camp with the rain luckily skipping us (a perk of hiking on the north side). We tossed our bags in the tent and relaxed for a bit before being served tea and popcorn. Dinner followed shortly after and consisted of soup, potatoes, chewy beef stew and an avocado slice. My dad’s knee had really tightened up since we arrived in camp and he struggled to get back to his tent. While we didn’t walk all that far, or at a high elevation, we were ready for bed and headed to sleep after a successful day one.
We’ve arrived
Simba Camp
Ranger’s cabin (they work ten day shifts)
Signing in for tonight’s camp with John
No bathroom was the same all trek, but this one was tolerable
It even came with a guide
And now time for food
Dining tent setup
Soup kicked off every dinner
Potatoes and vegetables
Beef stew
Avocado
***
Today’s Data
Distance: 4.38 mi, 7.05 km
Time 3:04:00
Camp Elevation: 8763’, 2671m
Daily Elevation Change: +2099’, +640m
Average Pace: 42:06 min/mile
Hike to Simba Camp
Overall Progress
Apr 29, 2016, 8:43 pm
#20
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Sorry for the lengthy delay in posting. I had some things I needed to tend to but I'm back and ready to post the rest of my trip as fast as I can. I have another just around the corner and can't leave until this is done!
I regret not doing that on previous trips. I save all the bottle caps and there a few I can't recall. Ndovu was my version of Bingwa.
I never realized the song was THAT long! Thanks for sharing.
Same here, never really imagined as a kid I would visit.
Subscribed!
I love your careful cataloguing of the beers. I remember arriving in Tanzania after months of overland travel through Africa (many years ago, admittedly) and delightedly discovering Bingwa beer, which was not only flavoursome and strong (7% abv) but also came in oversized bottles (500ml I think). Devastatingly effective at inducing coma-like levels of relaxation when consumed in the heat of the middle of the day...
I love your careful cataloguing of the beers. I remember arriving in Tanzania after months of overland travel through Africa (many years ago, admittedly) and delightedly discovering Bingwa beer, which was not only flavoursome and strong (7% abv) but also came in oversized bottles (500ml I think). Devastatingly effective at inducing coma-like levels of relaxation when consumed in the heat of the middle of the day...
I never realized the song was THAT long! Thanks for sharing.
Same here, never really imagined as a kid I would visit.
Apr 30, 2016, 1:36 pm
#21
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Kilimanjaro (Day 2 – Second Cave Camp)
Arose the next morning to a beautiful sunrise casting a warm glow across the mountain, but not particularly well rested. More importantly what we most dreaded was dad’s knee was still really tight and he felt he couldn’t continue. After thinking of possible alternatives to keeping him on the trail he decided it was best to be safe and head back. (based on his ability to hobble at best, it would have been a few difficult days ahead in his condition) Not the news we wanted to hear, but hey, it’s just another excuse to return! The crew arranged a few porters to help him back down while the rest of us would continue on after breakfast. We enjoyed some fruit, porridge, toast, eggs and sausage. Since it was still warm out, we chose to enjoy breakfast outside of the dining tent. A lovely and serene atmosphere. Before parting ways we made sure to get a few photos with Kili in the background!
Good morning (Kenya off in the distance)
The sun will make sure the fresh snow doesn’t last long
Coffee time
Butter like cheese, we never could decide
Serving the porridge
Morning fuel
Team photo
Been there, Seen that
So long…
Because of our seven-day itinerary, we never had much ground to cover in a given day (sort of a curse as we would be bored most afternoons) but we still started the journey pretty early each morning. Tonight’s camp, Second Cave Camp, is often a lunch spot for groups who are continuing on to Kikilelwa Camp (spelled K ikelelwa without the space, but FT doesn’t like that camp for some reason ☺, so I’ll just type it Kikilelwa). Our hike today mostly concluded our time in the Rainforest climate zone and we began to see the Heather and Moorland zones that would consume the next few days. There were also a few more inclines today, but nothing too challenging for our short distance. By 10:30 we had arrived, even before the porters, whoops.
Last of the Rainforest Zone
Mawenzi off in the distance, our home in two nights
Entering the Heather Zone
No more hiding behind trees
A real incline
First Cave, along the trail
Home, but where are our tents!
Since it would still be a bit until our gear was erected and more importantly lunch (we only ate 3 hours ago!) we sat around for a bit and relaxed. Eventually the tents were up and lunch was prepared. Thankfully I can check fried bread sandwiches off my bucket list. It came along with soup, fruit and fried bananas.
Second Cave Camp
Bathroom downgrade
And here come the porters
Setting up the kitchen/porter hostel
Cue daily afternoon clouds
Soup
Fried bread and bananas
Mango
After lunch, you guessed it, we relaxed a bit more. Each afternoon to help pass the time and acclimatize, we took short hikes around camp. Today’s was about two miles and passed the second cave and overlooked the valley.
John taking a nap, while Samuel took us out exploring
Private campsite again
Second Cave
Nothing too exciting
Our biggest climbs yet
Afternoon clouds in full force
Porter wisdom: ”There is a tall mountain behind that cloud.”
A nice walk without the sun beating down on us, and we returned just in time for tea! With popcorn of course. And yes, dinner followed with chicken, rice, vegetables, fruit all under candlelight. With the sun behind Kilimanjaro, it quickly began to cool off and we headed off to sleep early. The stars looked stunning when nature called at 1:00 so I snapped a few photos but it was far too cold for a t-shirt so I quickly fled to the comforts of my sleeping bag for some shut eye.
Who’s hungry?
Obviously the birds
Tonight’s soup
Chicken and rice
Eat your veggies
Fruit under our baked bean candelabra
One of our more romantic dinners
About 8,000 feet up, hikers are beginning their overnight ascent under the stars
***
Today’s Data
Distance: 3.64 mi, 5.86 km
Time 2:29:30
Camp Elevation: 11318', 3450m
Daily Elevation Change: +2773', +845m
Average Pace: 41:05 min/mile
Hike to Second Cave Camp
Overall Progress
Good morning (Kenya off in the distance)
The sun will make sure the fresh snow doesn’t last long
Coffee time
Butter like cheese, we never could decide
Serving the porridge
Morning fuel
Team photo
Been there, Seen that
So long…
Because of our seven-day itinerary, we never had much ground to cover in a given day (sort of a curse as we would be bored most afternoons) but we still started the journey pretty early each morning. Tonight’s camp, Second Cave Camp, is often a lunch spot for groups who are continuing on to Kikilelwa Camp (spelled K ikelelwa without the space, but FT doesn’t like that camp for some reason ☺, so I’ll just type it Kikilelwa). Our hike today mostly concluded our time in the Rainforest climate zone and we began to see the Heather and Moorland zones that would consume the next few days. There were also a few more inclines today, but nothing too challenging for our short distance. By 10:30 we had arrived, even before the porters, whoops.
Last of the Rainforest Zone
Mawenzi off in the distance, our home in two nights
Entering the Heather Zone
No more hiding behind trees
A real incline
First Cave, along the trail
Home, but where are our tents!
Since it would still be a bit until our gear was erected and more importantly lunch (we only ate 3 hours ago!) we sat around for a bit and relaxed. Eventually the tents were up and lunch was prepared. Thankfully I can check fried bread sandwiches off my bucket list. It came along with soup, fruit and fried bananas.
Second Cave Camp
Bathroom downgrade
And here come the porters
Setting up the kitchen/porter hostel
Cue daily afternoon clouds
Soup
Fried bread and bananas
Mango
After lunch, you guessed it, we relaxed a bit more. Each afternoon to help pass the time and acclimatize, we took short hikes around camp. Today’s was about two miles and passed the second cave and overlooked the valley.
John taking a nap, while Samuel took us out exploring
Private campsite again
Second Cave
Nothing too exciting
Our biggest climbs yet
Afternoon clouds in full force
Porter wisdom: ”There is a tall mountain behind that cloud.”
A nice walk without the sun beating down on us, and we returned just in time for tea! With popcorn of course. And yes, dinner followed with chicken, rice, vegetables, fruit all under candlelight. With the sun behind Kilimanjaro, it quickly began to cool off and we headed off to sleep early. The stars looked stunning when nature called at 1:00 so I snapped a few photos but it was far too cold for a t-shirt so I quickly fled to the comforts of my sleeping bag for some shut eye.
Who’s hungry?
Obviously the birds
Tonight’s soup
Chicken and rice
Eat your veggies
Fruit under our baked bean candelabra
One of our more romantic dinners
About 8,000 feet up, hikers are beginning their overnight ascent under the stars
***
Today’s Data
Distance: 3.64 mi, 5.86 km
Time 2:29:30
Camp Elevation: 11318', 3450m
Daily Elevation Change: +2773', +845m
Average Pace: 41:05 min/mile
Hike to Second Cave Camp
Overall Progress
May 2, 2016, 8:21 pm
#25
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Kilimanjaro (Day 3 – Kikilewa Camp)
Well rested, we arose to another pleasant sunrise and quickly packed our bags and washed up before sitting down to a mirror image of yesterday’s breakfast. (Noticing a trend here)
Good morning Africa
Morning “shower”
Fruit
I’m starting to think it is cheese
Porridge
And the rest of the assortment
Today’s hiking seemed a bit counter intuitive due to walking the majority of the day with Kilimanjaro at our back. We had to go around to meet up with the saddle two days later. What it did provide however were some stunning views of Mawenzi, although nothing compared to tomorrow.
And off we go
Mawenzi was today’s main sight
So long Kili. At least for the next two days
Still some color in the terrain
But definitely drying out
Porters caught up a bit sooner today
Clouds rolling in rather early
Walking on cloud nine
Pointless cave detour to likely give the porters a bit more of a lead
Dendrosenecio kilimanjari
Nearing Kikilelwa
Treacherous bridge crossing
Getting to Kikilelwa was just a walk in the park
Our next few hours
Once settled in we waited for lunch under pretty heave cloud cover. I think we were served fried chicken and fried dough. Soon after it began to hail so we took cover in the tent until it cleared and could have a snack.
Soup
Fried sampler
Watermelon
Pea sized hail
Porters dug moats around each tent for this reason
No popcorn today?!
With lunch, hail and our snack out of the way we went for a bit of a acclimatization hike. Not too far (less than a mile) nor difficult, but I think this was inspired by the destination being capable of receiving cell service. Needless to say the entire crew joined along today. We got to give dad a call and confirm he was getting better. Also found out he was able to plan a day trip to see some sites around Moshi.
Not so luxurious ranger’s station
Kilimanjaro phone booth
Checking work emails, now that’s dedication
Farther along the trail
Our porter going down to get some fresh cold water
Back at camp, the clouds and cold began to roll back in so we killed some time with a quick game of monopoly on the phone. I say quick because my brother didn’t realize why I was buying one of every color property and putting motels on my only monopoly. I suppose he slept though economics. Eventually dinner was ready and we enjoyed the chewy beef stew again, along with some macaroni. I don’t think the sun had fully set and I was snugly wrapped up in my sleeping bag, ready for an even shorter hike tomorrow.
Welcome back clouds
Peeking in the kitchen
Where the porters live
Afternoon entertainment
Took a break from the hot chocolate and went with the tea
Soup de jour II
Just the beginning of the carbs
Pasta and a cabbage of sorts
Chewy beef stew
Fruit for dessert
See you tomorrow Mawenzi
***
Today’s Data
Distance: 3.78 mi, 6.08 km
Time 2:18:20
Camp Elevation: 11811’, 3600m
Daily Elevation Change: +859’, +262m
Average Pace: 36:33 min/mile
Hike to Kikilelwa Camp
Overall Progress
Good morning Africa
Morning “shower”
Fruit
I’m starting to think it is cheese
Porridge
And the rest of the assortment
Today’s hiking seemed a bit counter intuitive due to walking the majority of the day with Kilimanjaro at our back. We had to go around to meet up with the saddle two days later. What it did provide however were some stunning views of Mawenzi, although nothing compared to tomorrow.
And off we go
Mawenzi was today’s main sight
So long Kili. At least for the next two days
Still some color in the terrain
But definitely drying out
Porters caught up a bit sooner today
Clouds rolling in rather early
Walking on cloud nine
Pointless cave detour to likely give the porters a bit more of a lead
Dendrosenecio kilimanjari
Nearing Kikilelwa
Treacherous bridge crossing
Getting to Kikilelwa was just a walk in the park
Our next few hours
Once settled in we waited for lunch under pretty heave cloud cover. I think we were served fried chicken and fried dough. Soon after it began to hail so we took cover in the tent until it cleared and could have a snack.
Soup
Fried sampler
Watermelon
Pea sized hail
Porters dug moats around each tent for this reason
No popcorn today?!
With lunch, hail and our snack out of the way we went for a bit of a acclimatization hike. Not too far (less than a mile) nor difficult, but I think this was inspired by the destination being capable of receiving cell service. Needless to say the entire crew joined along today. We got to give dad a call and confirm he was getting better. Also found out he was able to plan a day trip to see some sites around Moshi.
Not so luxurious ranger’s station
Kilimanjaro phone booth
Checking work emails, now that’s dedication
Farther along the trail
Our porter going down to get some fresh cold water
Back at camp, the clouds and cold began to roll back in so we killed some time with a quick game of monopoly on the phone. I say quick because my brother didn’t realize why I was buying one of every color property and putting motels on my only monopoly. I suppose he slept though economics. Eventually dinner was ready and we enjoyed the chewy beef stew again, along with some macaroni. I don’t think the sun had fully set and I was snugly wrapped up in my sleeping bag, ready for an even shorter hike tomorrow.
Welcome back clouds
Peeking in the kitchen
Where the porters live
Afternoon entertainment
Took a break from the hot chocolate and went with the tea
Soup de jour II
Just the beginning of the carbs
Pasta and a cabbage of sorts
Chewy beef stew
Fruit for dessert
See you tomorrow Mawenzi
***
Today’s Data
Distance: 3.78 mi, 6.08 km
Time 2:18:20
Camp Elevation: 11811’, 3600m
Daily Elevation Change: +859’, +262m
Average Pace: 36:33 min/mile
Hike to Kikilelwa Camp
Overall Progress
Last edited by rivlinm; May 2, 2016 at 8:39 pm
May 2, 2016, 8:25 pm
#26
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
May 3, 2016, 1:55 pm
#27
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Kilimanjaro (Day 4 – Mawenzi Tarn Camp)
Woke up to another marvelous sunrise, which thankfully began to warm things up. Another standard Kilimanjaro style breakfast was followed by our shortest hike yet. We finally started to gain some real elevation, especially on our afternoon side hike.
Warming up
Just barely peaking out
Hardly made a dent in the porridge today
The morning feast
I don’t think we even touched the fruit
A fresh dusting overnight
Camp above the clouds
Today’s target, Mawenzi
And off we go
Thistle of some sort
Looking backwards
Clouds stuck in the valley between us and camp
Actually gaining elevation
Back within full sight
The clouds were moving in quick as we neared Mawenzi Tarn Camp
Now you see me…
..Now you don’t
Hopefully not tonight’s water source
No fancy sign today
Signing in
Just about two hours later we made it to the base of Mawenzi. A few brave folks have been able to climb its peak over the years, but no one recently. Its hardened lava surface is too brittle and easily crumbles. The Park has now banned climbing it.
While the remainder of the porters trickled in and finished setting up camp we cleaned up and took in the breathtaking view as the clouds swept past the towering summit of Mawenzi. Lunch, a totally new menu, was served just before it began to sleet again. As the weather cleared we were surprised with a double snack to fuel us for our acclimatization hike.
Setting up the dining tent
Last of the gear coming in
A three holer
There must be water somewhere
We see who drew the short straw today
Chicken and chips
Tomato soup
Fresh pineapple
Hail in a cloud
Nuts and popcorn today
The clouds lingered after leaving a healthy pile of hail on the mountain
Today’s side hike was the best as far as views go. We started by walking toward the base of Mawenzi and then made our way around to a ridge with stunning views of the basin. That was a new high elevation for me. Hope the next 5,000+ feet are no tougher.
Camp
At the base
Hiking up to the ridge that overlooks the saddle
Camp way down below
Ridge to Mawenzi
John is happy we made it
That weather sure does change fast
Headed back down for dinner
It looks much cleaner up close
Global warming does exist!
Such a beautiful mountain
The trail in to camp
Taking a break in the kitchen
Samuel spent his spare time polishing his kicks
Dinner of rice and green beans was served and it began to get cold as the sun set beyond the ridge, so we quickly ate and settled in for the night just after 18:30.
Cucumber soup
Simple but delicious
Rice and beans
Vegetable stew
Fruit for dessert again
***
Today’s Data
Distance: 2.47 mi, 3.98 km
Time 2:06:40
Camp Elevation: 14200’, 4328m
Daily Elevation Change: +2096’, +638m
Average Pace: 51:17 min/mile
Hike to Mawenzi Tarn Camp
Overall Progress
Warming up
Just barely peaking out
Hardly made a dent in the porridge today
The morning feast
I don’t think we even touched the fruit
A fresh dusting overnight
Camp above the clouds
Today’s target, Mawenzi
And off we go
Thistle of some sort
Looking backwards
Clouds stuck in the valley between us and camp
Actually gaining elevation
Back within full sight
The clouds were moving in quick as we neared Mawenzi Tarn Camp
Now you see me…
..Now you don’t
Hopefully not tonight’s water source
No fancy sign today
Signing in
Just about two hours later we made it to the base of Mawenzi. A few brave folks have been able to climb its peak over the years, but no one recently. Its hardened lava surface is too brittle and easily crumbles. The Park has now banned climbing it.
While the remainder of the porters trickled in and finished setting up camp we cleaned up and took in the breathtaking view as the clouds swept past the towering summit of Mawenzi. Lunch, a totally new menu, was served just before it began to sleet again. As the weather cleared we were surprised with a double snack to fuel us for our acclimatization hike.
Setting up the dining tent
Last of the gear coming in
A three holer
There must be water somewhere
We see who drew the short straw today
Chicken and chips
Tomato soup
Fresh pineapple
Hail in a cloud
Nuts and popcorn today
The clouds lingered after leaving a healthy pile of hail on the mountain
Today’s side hike was the best as far as views go. We started by walking toward the base of Mawenzi and then made our way around to a ridge with stunning views of the basin. That was a new high elevation for me. Hope the next 5,000+ feet are no tougher.
Camp
At the base
Hiking up to the ridge that overlooks the saddle
Camp way down below
Ridge to Mawenzi
John is happy we made it
That weather sure does change fast
Headed back down for dinner
It looks much cleaner up close
Global warming does exist!
Such a beautiful mountain
The trail in to camp
Taking a break in the kitchen
Samuel spent his spare time polishing his kicks
Dinner of rice and green beans was served and it began to get cold as the sun set beyond the ridge, so we quickly ate and settled in for the night just after 18:30.
Cucumber soup
Simple but delicious
Rice and beans
Vegetable stew
Fruit for dessert again
***
Today’s Data
Distance: 2.47 mi, 3.98 km
Time 2:06:40
Camp Elevation: 14200’, 4328m
Daily Elevation Change: +2096’, +638m
Average Pace: 51:17 min/mile
Hike to Mawenzi Tarn Camp
Overall Progress
May 3, 2016, 7:17 pm
#28
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Kilimanjaro (Day 5 – Kibo Hut Camp)
Woke up to an awfully cold morning on our last normal day of the trek. Summit day and descent day would have vastly different agendas. Overnight quite a bit of cold white substances had fallen from the sky blanketing the top 1000 feet of Kilimanjaro as we would soon discover. We enjoyed the standard breakfast, with some bonus cheese, and headed off down the trail. A bit longer in distance, today’s trek was unique in that after we reached the first ridge (that we climbed yesterday afternoon) we would see our final destination in the distance as we crossed the saddle from Mawenzi to Kibo Hut.
Frost on the tent wall
Mini ice rink
Malaria and altitude meds to kick off breakfast
Watermelon
Same breakfast, different day
A bit of frost on Mawenzi as we began our hike
A real white cap as we are finally walking toward Kili again
At two points along the way we found two curiously located bits of wreckage from a small plane. John told us five years ago a few Italians in low visibility crashed and perished. According to the internet, the Cessna 206 (5YAOO) belonging to East African Air Charters out of Nairobi crashed into the peak of Mawenzi in 2008. Four Italians were killed and the pilot miraculously survived. I suspect the wreckage was relocated along the trail at some point.
First trace of wreckage
Clear path ahead with a shelter at Kibo Hut in the distance
Minimal vegetation remains
Remainder of the wreckage
Empty fuselage
Cessna wing
Located just 5 feet from the trail, hmmm…
Last vegetation?
Looking back and racing the clouds
Lugging water for the highest camp
Less than a mile from Kibo Hut we were instructed to stop for a snack. The few porters who had been walking at our pace lucked out and got to enjoy too. One perk (to some) of the Rongai route is its privacy. That privilege would soon conclude as at Kibo we joined forces with the cabin dwellers on the “coca cola” Marangu route. We had gone five days without any outside encounters besides the rangers, but as we neared Kibo, we sensed Disney. As we dropped our bags an Irishman was heading out after a successful but long journey to Uhuru Peak. He didn’t seem very prepared and said it was the most difficult thing he has ever done. Only time will tell… Not really hungry, a common side effect of the high altitude, (or maybe all we had done was eat) we settled in for lunch, which consisted of some hard boiled eggs, fried toast sandwiches, soup and fruit. I tried to sleep before our scheduled afternoon hike, but it just wasn’t in the cards.
With camp within reach, snack time
Almost there, tomorrow doesn’t look so bad
Preview of the scree run up top
Six hours away!
Camp
Huts for the Marangu treckers
Leek soup
Hardboiled eggs
Fried bread sandwiches
Fresh fruit on day five
Failed nap time setup
In addition to not being able to sleep, we ended up not doing a side hike today. So much for keeping entertained I suppose. Tomorrow’s summit attempt was scheduled to begin at midnight with “breakfast” at 23:30 so we had an early dinner tonight. I think they wanted us to eat some carbs. It was pretty appetizing though.
Soup
Carbs
And even more carbs
Bean stew
When in Tanzania…
Some unappealing citrus
At 18:00 with a full belly it was time to try and sleep. I was rather sleepless for most of the night and eventually dozed off about 21:30 so I wouldn’t be climbing tomorrow on a good night’s rest. Knowing we would be hiking for the first six hours in pitch dark and temperatures possibly below freezing I pretty much put on ALL of my layers besides my coat so I could wake up, climb out of the bag and put on my boots.
Cloud wall rolling in just in time for bed
***
Today’s Data
Distance: 5.16 mi, 8.3 km
Time 3:07:20
Camp Elevation: 15485’, 4720m
Daily Elevation Change: +1827, +557m
Average Pace: 36:15 min/mile
Hike to Kibo Hut
Overall Progress
Frost on the tent wall
Mini ice rink
Malaria and altitude meds to kick off breakfast
Watermelon
Same breakfast, different day
A bit of frost on Mawenzi as we began our hike
A real white cap as we are finally walking toward Kili again
At two points along the way we found two curiously located bits of wreckage from a small plane. John told us five years ago a few Italians in low visibility crashed and perished. According to the internet, the Cessna 206 (5YAOO) belonging to East African Air Charters out of Nairobi crashed into the peak of Mawenzi in 2008. Four Italians were killed and the pilot miraculously survived. I suspect the wreckage was relocated along the trail at some point.
First trace of wreckage
Clear path ahead with a shelter at Kibo Hut in the distance
Minimal vegetation remains
Remainder of the wreckage
Empty fuselage
Cessna wing
Located just 5 feet from the trail, hmmm…
Last vegetation?
Looking back and racing the clouds
Lugging water for the highest camp
Less than a mile from Kibo Hut we were instructed to stop for a snack. The few porters who had been walking at our pace lucked out and got to enjoy too. One perk (to some) of the Rongai route is its privacy. That privilege would soon conclude as at Kibo we joined forces with the cabin dwellers on the “coca cola” Marangu route. We had gone five days without any outside encounters besides the rangers, but as we neared Kibo, we sensed Disney. As we dropped our bags an Irishman was heading out after a successful but long journey to Uhuru Peak. He didn’t seem very prepared and said it was the most difficult thing he has ever done. Only time will tell… Not really hungry, a common side effect of the high altitude, (or maybe all we had done was eat) we settled in for lunch, which consisted of some hard boiled eggs, fried toast sandwiches, soup and fruit. I tried to sleep before our scheduled afternoon hike, but it just wasn’t in the cards.
With camp within reach, snack time
Almost there, tomorrow doesn’t look so bad
Preview of the scree run up top
Six hours away!
Camp
Huts for the Marangu treckers
Leek soup
Hardboiled eggs
Fried bread sandwiches
Fresh fruit on day five
Failed nap time setup
In addition to not being able to sleep, we ended up not doing a side hike today. So much for keeping entertained I suppose. Tomorrow’s summit attempt was scheduled to begin at midnight with “breakfast” at 23:30 so we had an early dinner tonight. I think they wanted us to eat some carbs. It was pretty appetizing though.
Soup
Carbs
And even more carbs
Bean stew
When in Tanzania…
Some unappealing citrus
At 18:00 with a full belly it was time to try and sleep. I was rather sleepless for most of the night and eventually dozed off about 21:30 so I wouldn’t be climbing tomorrow on a good night’s rest. Knowing we would be hiking for the first six hours in pitch dark and temperatures possibly below freezing I pretty much put on ALL of my layers besides my coat so I could wake up, climb out of the bag and put on my boots.
Cloud wall rolling in just in time for bed
***
Today’s Data
Distance: 5.16 mi, 8.3 km
Time 3:07:20
Camp Elevation: 15485’, 4720m
Daily Elevation Change: +1827, +557m
Average Pace: 36:15 min/mile
Hike to Kibo Hut
Overall Progress
May 4, 2016, 1:39 am
#29
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Dubai
Posts: 3,301
I'm impressed by the meals, especially the distance they have travelled up the mountain on someone's back. Perfect fuel for all that hiking
.
Did you have any issues with the altitiude? I guess just alot of panting?
Looking forward to the views from the top.
.Did you have any issues with the altitiude? I guess just alot of panting?
Looking forward to the views from the top
.
