London to Inverness - by Sleeper
 

I haven't been on the Sleeper train for years, and was keen to give it another go, especially now that it is a self-contained franchise, rather than a subset of a bigger company.

The new operators, Serco, kept the name, Caledonian Sleeper, but relaunched the brand - you'll see the theme in some of the pics.

They have introduced advance booking all year round - which is revolutionary as in the UK you can generally only book 90 days ahead.

During the booking process, you can prebook dinner too, which I did.

First things first - an inauspicious start at Euston Station, where the Virgin Trains First Class lounge continues to disappoint.

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At around 8pm on a Thursday night, the place was packed, and it didn't help that passengers spread themselves about with seats being used to protect suitcases from the awful floor ;-)

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However, it did empty at around 8.30pm and it was nice to be away from the hustle and bustle of the main station.

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I made my way down to Platform 1 where my carriage awaited. This was in the far corner of the station.

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I can't tell you how excited I was to be getting on the sleeper train. There's something really special about boarding this train, knowing that you could be going asleep in the city and walking up in the Highlands.

That excitement was enhanced when I was met at the train by one of the Caledonian Sleeper staff, who reconfirmed my booking, took my breakfast order and also explained that a table had been reserved for me, and to pop along any time to the lounge car as I could dine when I was ready.

But first, to the cabin.

Now, these trains are old. Very old and it shows in places.

The corridors are narrow.
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I had booked "First Class", which was cheaper than standard. This simply means that there is no top bunk, so you are not sharing with someone.

You also get a handie toiletry pack, from Arran Aromatics. One of the things this included was a pillow odoriser, to aid a relaxing sleep!

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There's light controls:

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And temperature controls, which was surprisingly responsive.

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Cabins are not en-suite - although this is coming in 2017.

To the lounge car! Again, I should point out that the lounge was looking dated, however, that was not going to be a problem.

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I had my magazines, my book and my bottle of Prosecco so was quite happy.

Also, the staff kept on checking on people in the lounge car and stopping for quick chats, so there was a really convivial atmosphere.

However, we hadn't left Euston because of a fault with the train. The driver then had to take his allocated break so we left about 45 minutes late.

Dinner was served. It tasted great - but I think they could have worked on the presentation. Not much to complain about really as it tasted good.

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Followed by a cheeseboard, and GIN!

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I moved tables to one which had a charging point, and then had a few more gins, before going back to the cabin to try and get some sleep.

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Sleeping on the sleeper is an acquired skill, and I know some people who fall asleep almost immediately, while people like me, seem to feel every movement of the train.

However I did get some sleep, and woke to this:

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I headed through to the lounge for breakfast.

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It was really early and I was the only person up!

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I had a few more hours sleep back in the cabin.

I popped over to the new Caledonian Sleeper lounge in Inverness for a shower, coffee and biscuit.

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At every point of the journey, and every staff member that I encountered, I sensed their sense of pride at working for the sleeper. Nothing was ever a problem. When I disembarked at Inverness, the steward of my carriage came down to say goodbye and hoping to see me again.

It was with a sense of wonderful well-being that I popped over to Inverness Station for the journey to Wick...

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Thanks - looks like a good trip! How long did the journey take, and did you make up any time from the 45min delay out of Euston?
And are the meals (and gins) included?
I shall put this on my list of things to do!

How much does a trip like this cost?

The journey was £140 and that includes the main meal.

Alcohol / cheeseboard was extra.

I've used this service before (to Aberdeen though), and always enjoyed it.
Prebooking further in advance is a big leap - it was only two months last time I booked (or maybe 90 days as you suggest), which is cutting it close if you want a berth at busier times of year.

I agree with atmosphere in the lounge on the train - really enjoying time spent there eating and drinking before sleep.

Making them all en suite in the future would also be a big improvement.

Lovely report, thanks for sharing.

You are so right, there is something enchanting about the sleeper.

On the face of it, you are travelling in an archaic mode (sleeper trains across Europe are being cancelled), in rolling stock nearly 40 years old. But once inside the cabin you are residing in the atmosphere changes entirely. Perhaps I have been too influenced by notions of Poirot and the Orient Express, but a sense of purpose, of understated luxury, of a slower pace of life revered through the window. Seeing the world, but not in it. Perhaps it's the notion of being the only light across Rannoch Moor in the dead of a winter night, the little square of light from your window the last light before the abyss. The journey feels like it could go on forever, forgetting that the journey is normally done on a commuter DMU.

I haven't taken the Deerstalker in a while, but I have taken the Penzance sleeper. Just a few hours later I travelled through some of the same stations on the normal service train, and the romance was gone.

Perhaps its the cold light of day? Who knows.

But thanks for sharing!

Looking forward to the new trains.
Staff recently went on strike over the high level of defects on this older stock.
The staff really are great and it is a good way to arrive in the Highlands.
A few tips; Single travellers in standard class will probably have to share with a stranger, the seated sleeper is a bargain but offers little sleep, and access to the lounge on board is usually restricted to first class passengers.....

Wow!

Looks great!

Are there any refreshments or snacks available in the station lounge?

Interesting to read/see these as its something i have always planned to do but never quite got around to.

I am curious though, if the train had left on time was it supposed to drive itself whilst the driver had his break?!

Thanks for sharing. I used to take the train between London and Scotland a few times a year but being Edinburgh based never tried a sleeper. Looks like an excellent way to experience more northern terrain. Wondering now whether to give the existing kit a try or wait for the new stock!

Thanks for awesome trip report. I really enjoy the non-plane trips!!

Great TR, thanks Sealink. I've done the sleeper as far as Edinburgh and loved it, I had a shared berth but that didn't bother me in the slightest.

Thanks for the report, Its only my list of things to do.

So looks like you can't get a Twin Standard Class shared sleeper with your spouse, as it says they are separated by male/female? Any experiences?

Yes, thanks for the TR as I've sort of been playing around with a UK visit next year and this would be a great overnight rail journey.

Having the fare be refundable until noon the day before travel would offer a great amount of flexibility if booking well in advance.