JVPhoto

Koh Samui



I didn't have much planned other than trying to get in some beach time for these 2 months in Thailand.

The scooter helped and for the most part it seems like one ring road that goes around the Island with some areas and off shoots towards the beach or mountain from either direction.
I didn't feel unsafe driving here but I was more vigilant compared to in Chiang Mai as here you have many more tourists on scooters + curves/hills with locals who have been driving it forever and are comfortable weaving in and out.

Next to the hotel is Veggie Bean Cafe. Bummer that it doesn't open until 4 as it would have been great for lunch. But, I was able to go one day and get a pineapple/ginger/basil smoothie.




Across the street from that was Krua Indy that had one of the better gang kiaw wan gai that I've eaten.



I was able to check out two gyms while I was there. Elite has two locations. One is more "open air" feeling and the other is more Westernized with a/c and group classes. You don't need to do much cardio if you don't have a/c. 300b day pass, comes with a towel and bottle of water.



I went there first because it is next to a supplement shop Pro Nutrition Thailand which has locations in Pattaya, Phuket, Samui and previously Chiang Mai. It was a bit of a let down, didn't have too much variety.
On the main road this place had a bit more to choose from including ON.


The next day I went to World's Gym. Still open air and a bit more old school, also only 150b day pass.



My friend/model from Perth recommended it to me which I think was just so that I would go and see him on the Wall of Fame there.




Up the hill from the hotel I ate at Dr. Frogs. Italian/Thai. Opens for breakfast two so the view would be nice then. But still a nice relaxing spot at night.


The cat food aka larb gai (one of my favorites) was decent.

I was excited for the gnocchi but I imagined it was going to had more basil and be more of a fresh tomatoe sauce than this creamy (and salty) sauce.


Saturday was just for tooting around. I had looked into going to Koh Phangan but I couldn't figure out if any of the ferries would let you take your scooter across so I just gave up.
I drove down around Lamai beach through the main strip of bars with massage girls out even at 11am. I would return their cat calls with a kissy face and "lod noi dai mai" (can you give me a discount?) as I would scoot past.


Came across Coffee World (mostly needed a bathroom) which sits on the main road in Lamai (not the smaller bar sois) in some yellow colonial looking hotel/shopping complex. Rip off 135b Americano.


Down the road Belka Cafe was a bit more pleasant and half the price. Also lots of cakes.



In the wandering also went off the road as I came across the new Guan Yui shrine and Hainan Cultural Center with this big 4 story tall guy. Parts still being constructed/unboxed. About 7-9 food stalls around it.


I turned off the main road and just started driving around more and enjoying the vitamin D.



On the way back I stopped at the Hin Ta Hin Yai rocks at the request of my friend.



Yes it was pretty and yes you also get a giggle of an 8 year old.


But tucked away there he sent me to check out Rock Bar which he fell in love with.
Tree house, Rasta vibes on the beach.



According to him theres a special way to order where you'll be brought a beer and another thin white item for the full "Bob Marley Experience".
I did no such thing. By this point I was starting to burn and wanted to head back for an air con nap.

All in all I was happy to visit Koh Samui. From what I remember (or at least my expectations) I liked Phuket better when I went two years ago and stayed at Twin Palms in Surin Beach. Samui served me with a beach weekend and the direct flight on PG really helped as I would not have wanted to connect in BKK for it. Later this year when I'm back in Thailand in the fall I plan to visit Hua Hin or Krabi...maybe both. I have a feeling though if I just went to Koh Tao I would love that as well (being a fan of Tulum up until a few years ago).

JVPhoto

Thai Smile Plus CNX-BKK-CNX + Renaissance Bangkok

Decided to sneak away for a few days. Was Wednesday night and was feeling listless so I looked at flights and canceled my Thursday lesson and would stay two nights since I had something to be back in Chiang Mai for on Saturday night.

I normally liked booking the ~3:30pm ex-CNX flight on the TG 330/777 but coming back on TG flights wouldn't work with the times so I ended up booking Smile. First time flying on Smile, the prices for Plus were only about 25% more so I went ahead and booked that.

Since I booked via the TG site I wasn't able to OLCI with WE. I went ahead and go to the airport about 30 min earlier than I would have liked to. Much slower than last Thursday.



Backpackers who don't understand local customs or faux pas.


Plus (aka Premium Economy...not sure what they call it for INTL) does get you TG lounge access. I noticed at check in there was a sign about LH Senator getting to use premium services but I don't know if that includes lounges. I'm typing this in the BKK TG lounge so I'll count my eggs before they hatch but the flight in was pleasant and if the ride home is the same I wouldn't have a problem booking Smile again...if UA MileagePlus listed it as a partner for earning/benefits.




I was the only Smile pax in the lounge so the attendant came up and told me it was time for boarding. This was AT boarding time and when I walked 75 feet to the gate it was well underway.


Middle blocked for my comfort. Comfort indeed as I was the only PE pax. They offered me a drink before departure and the FAs looked great in their very bright uniforms. A bit "fresher" than TG.

I was given a choice of tuna sandwich or a vegetable egg roll. The food was good, could tell no difference between this and a normal TG flight. They also curtained off the Y cabin so it made it seem even more like a private ride.

The extra bonus was that we were speeding down the runway...5 min before our scheduled departure time. That meant we were in BKK 20 min early. A nice thing when usually the TG flight in/out is delayed 15-35 min.



I hadn't stayed at The Renaissance before, but it was the cheapest among the SPG and Marriott properties (in terms of location I wanted to stay). I would have liked to go back to The St. Regis but it was about 40% more and didn't need to blow any more money on and already unneeded trip. Plus with Marriott Gold compared to SPG I would get lounge access, this rate also included breakfast buffet.







The room was comfortable. Bed was great, loved the free standing tub. Was it anything special? Not quite, but no complaints at $145/night.

I did enjoy some wine and snacks at the lounge. In the evening they actually have enough food you could have enough for dinner if you'd like.




I didn't go to the lounge and see what was offered for breakfast since my rate included the restaurant buffet.




Standard mix of Western, Thai, Chinese, Indian dishes. 90% stayed the same each day. If not included in the rate the price is 750b.



Went to see Batman vs. Superman at Siam Paragon. 2nd time eating at Hokkaido Don in the basement level. Really good bowls and the sushi is reasonable.


Finally had someone to go with me to the movies. Wanted to do the Bangkok Airways Blue Ribbon theaters which is 2000b for the pair. Maya is cute but he's not that cute. Went ahead instead for the normal theaters in the XL Couch (love seat).

If it reclined a little bit more I would even consider booking it alone and using it to veg out and see a movie by myself in ultimate relaxation.

P.S. the movie was horrible.



I made my way out to On Nut to meet a friend and workout at Muscle Factory.
It's out of the way but for whatever reason if you lived in that area of Bangkok it would be a great gym.



Almost at my goal (for May) of 90kg/200lb. Let's see if I can get to 100kg/220lb by my birthday in July.


Really enjoy being able to pick up BBQd sweet potatoes on the street.


Had AWESOME custom salads at Farm Factory in Silom Complex (Sala Dang BTS/Silom MRT).



Randomly decided to walk through the Aramin Mall next to Erawan Shrine (Chit Lom BTS) and came across this!

Went back when they opened and got a key chain for my duffle bag and a shirt for my nephew. Lots of stickers, patches/tags and some shirts along with model planes and actual pilot gear (log books, etc).


In the convience store in the shopping plaza next to Erawan Shrine I found these Ito En instant green tea packets that I haven't seen since a sample booth in Tokyo at Senso-ji temple. Beyond excited I bought two boxes.




Got a "late" check-out at 1:30 so I could head in for my flight. Not really issues with traffic. Had another "meter broken taxi" but this time (compared to a month ago) being able to say in Thai "I want the meter or I don't go with you" seemed to magically make it work!



Easy check-in...instinctively went to the domestic TG J counter but then walked an aisle over to find Smile.

Some things change...but the domestic TG lounges don't.


Once they started bringing wheel chair pax in half of the gate area decided that meant it was time to line up...including lots o The World's Favorite Tourists creating quite the cluster. I didn't hear anything about boarding for Plus, but I knew they would open the 2nd door so I waited there and walked right up once the GA stepped up.



I didn't see drop down screens on the last flight. This one was playing music videos during board and had America's Funniest Home Videos on during the flight.


Really great and chipper FAs. Choice was tuna sandwich with mac and cheese or the same egg roll. Got that again, very good.



We again pushed early and didn't have to taxi all the way to the other side of the airport which was nice and meant out wheels were up 2 min after scheduled departure time.

JVPhoto

Kan Airlines CNX-PYY-CNX & Pai

As I mentioned before it was in the Udon Thani airport that I finally looked at who/what Kan Airlines was. When I saw they had direct flights to Pai I instantly thought "Yes! I'll get to visit Pai." I would either want to ride a motorcycle there or fly...I didn't want to spend 3.5-5.5 hours on the backpacker bus to travel 50 miles through 750 turns.

Check in is a breeze. Kan flies ATRs or Caravan and I don't think any flights overlap. In this case the most people that could possibly be in line is 12 if all of us came at the same time.





As you could imagine it's a bus gate.



5 min before boarding the GA came around and gave us all a box with water and a crab cream sandwich from Dang which is a pretty popular bakery in Chiang Mai.







The benefit of getting to the airport before other pax is if you're solo you can pick one of the 4 seats that sit alone on the 1-2 layout.



It's a nice change of pace that once everyone is on the engines start and the plane starts to move with the captain saying "No smoking and please keep your seat belts on."





28 minutes later we were on the ground in Pai.





The hotel was picking me up but no one was there when I arrived. Waited about 15-20 min since we were a few minutes early from when I told them. Finally called them and the car would be there in 5 min and turns out 2 of of the girls on the flight were also staying there.

Reviere Siam

I had looked on Expedia for places to stay. There's a few non-guest house type "resorts" with Reviere seeming to be the most appealing.

Even though I arrived at 11am they checked me in right away.











There are the "pool" rooms with the second floor having a veranda and the bottom being able to step out and into the rock pool directly. There's a few rooms that are not near the pool and then they also have a few private cottages.
It's all a very "colonial" vibe with the Francophile influences. It's sits a bit outside of Pai (aka 1km) and faces across the river to the giant white Buddha on the side of the hill. Everything was comfortable, the beds were great, nice tub and showers, good amenities. Though some of the decoration could be paired down a bit that made it a bit too "trying to be an old French atelier style" like the faux wire mannequin bust in the room.













It's expensive by Pai standards....about $100/night in this low season compared to guest houses and home stays in Pai that you can do for $10-$40/night.

Breakfast was great. You get two choices plus beverages.









The dinner menu was mostly tapas style things. I didn't pay much attention or eat there, just a glass of cab one night.



Aside from picking up in the airport they also have free tuk tuk service to a motorcycle rental shop and about 4-5 points of interest in Pai city. This was nice to drop me off right when I checked in to rent a scooter.



Now I was embarking on what felt like an in-flight magazine "3 perfect days in ________" type article.

Hungry for a bite I just made my way to the "center" of town and stopped at Pai Country House for a pretty good pumpkin/basil/egg dish.







I got on the move and decided first would be go see the big white Buddha on the hill.



In the small "What to do in Pai" leaflet they listed a health food cafe/shop called Earth Tone which happened to be at the bottom of the hill at the Wat entrance.
Kombucha, kefir, super foods...my kind of place!

A very good "Vietnamese ice coffee" that actually uses kefir yogurt instead of condensed milk.


Getting ready for Australia with some avo on toast.


Stocked up on a few essentials.


I thought people were joking about all the "hippies" but certainly enough white people with dreads. I won't go into the level of inapproriateness the ones who walk around barefoot all day are. The reason you leave your shoes off at the entrance of lots of places in Thailand is not because they hate shoes...but so you don't bring all the filth from outside into the space. So if you're walking around care foot all day....YOU DO NOT HAVE SHOES TO TAKE OFF and by virtue of that...track in the crud.


I went back the next day for a coffee and salad as well. Along with a compliment from the owner that she doesn't meet many Farang who can speak more Thai and then just greetings.


Okay next on the docket. I noticed that Pam Bok Waterfall and the Pai Land Split were up the same road. Let's go!

I went past the Land Split to go to the waterfall first.



I had a good 10 min alone before 3 Thai kids and 2 tourists showed up. Then we started jumping off the rocks.





3/4 of the way back to the main road is the Pai Land Split. A farmer woke up one morning a few years ago to his farm destroyed after some seismic activity split giant crags into the land.







Before you can get to the Land Split once you park your scooter you go past the farmer/family who welcome you and offer you some juice and to sit and relax for a minute. They have a donation box. I put in 100 baht and in a few minutes I was presented with this....juice, hibiscus wine, tamarind, papaya, banana chips, peanuts, sweet potatoes.



Not being able to farm all of his land he's figure out other enterprises along with making a reservoir across the street into a swimming hole where you can buy beer, chips and rent tubes to float.

Back to rest from the sun and heat and then head to the nightly Walking Street.

Ate my way through it with some shallot spicy noodles, a little Mexican shop and then some chicken tikka.




Usual market knick knacks with some extra/local Pai things thrown in the mix.

After breakfast the next morning I saw on the way to the hotel a place called Cafecito. I have to check anything Mexican out when I'm in a far flung place.



East coast guy opened it as a coffee roaster but also serving some Mexican breakfast. Talked with him about the coffee culture in Chiang Mai/N. Thailand for a bit before I made my way to the Pai Canyon.

As I made my way out of town I saw a bunch of cars parked along the road. Hearing some music I pulled in and stop. A nice random stumble to see a huge group of people net fishing in this reservoir. Not sure who/what/why it was seeded with fish but I kept on going.



If the farmer gives the Land Split another few thousand years I'm sure it'll turn into Pai Canyon as well.
When I got there around 10 the parking lot was empty. You can more or less pick left or right and do a big up and down loop through the lower and higher levels.





The heat wasn't too bad, some cover but as it got closer to noon less of that. Took me about 1:10 to walk through the whole thing. Also saw the Kan flight come in and out.

I only saw one woman sitting under a tree reading on my way out & by the time I got to the main entrance area about 3 groups of 3-5 people.





Pai is full of kooky things along the road it's all rather cute and light hearted and good spirits.



A few minutes up the road is the WW2 Japanese Bridge. Interesting but nothing special.


I also went to the Yunan Village 10 min outside of the city but just did a loop and kept going.



After a nap back to Walking Street for some more food.





Dropped my scooter off the next morning and then they drove me to the airport.
Had a little bit of entertainment for the 45 min waiting around with two army helicopters coming in and dropping off some people. Made me think of flying out of HDS (Hoedespruit Military Base) in South Africa when I left safari.



Once the security girl rode up on her bike we were instructed to make our way to the gate.





As we boarded we were given snack boxes again. 2 guys on the flight were on my flight in as well. Even had a little seat poaching incident where someone who apparently wanted a single window seat decided to take it.



Back in no time and on the ground ready to meet a friend for lunch at Noon.

It was great flying Kan. I think I may do so again later in the year for their direct flight to Hua Hin.

JVPhoto

Chiang Mai III & Thai Royal Silk CNX-BKK

The remaining days in Chiang Mai were pretty low key. It started to swell up to temperatures of a dry 40-42. Even the wind from the scooter was like riding through a fire storm.

I kept up with my 2 hours of Thai each day.


You could keep cool in coffee shops. One I found was Graph in the Old City which is the only place I think in CM that does nitro cold brew. It's small, but fine to grab something to go or bottled cold brew as well.



Before the heat came out I would go in the mornings usually twice a week to Cafe SS1254372 for the avocado chicken with salsa and poached egg. Delicious.



Some more peeking into Chiang Mai coffee culture I found a place called Asama in a gated community called Lake Land on the eastern side of the airport/city.




The owner has won some awards as a barista but what I came for was to try the fizzy americano (aka sparkling water).

It was interesting and glad I went out there to check it out, but for me not a repeat trip.



Up in the mornings before the heat I would also make my way to the gym.
Go Gym is a little tattered and shabby.


But it's no nonsense fuss and I'm going to miss the camaraderie (unspoken or otherwise) from the people I would often see everyday.



A great place for dinner is a An Chan that frequently changes their menu based on availability/season. Even within the same week. I really loved the egg plant miso and soy pumpkin & egg...but when I went back after the weekend they were replaced on the menu.



The past coming/goings in Chiang Mai Airport (other than when I have a scooter, not my first flight in and last flight out) the people I rent the apartment from having picked me up from and taken me to CNX. They were out of town this time so I was to fend for myself. Wasn't going to take a song taew truck, don't think I'd make it with my bags in a tuk tuk. The problem with calling the taxi is the apartment is hard to explain the location. I was going to go down in the shop at the street and have them call for me. The night before I googled and noticed the app Grab has some cabs in Chiang Mai.
That afternoon I had a taxi within 4 min from turning on the app ready to take me to CNX.


Not too busy...

Until the lounge which was absolutely packed.


While I laude Smile for having the flights that were EARLY, these TG flights always post a 20-45 min delay. Part of me thinks it is the turn of a wide body at CNX.



First TG *A livery I've flown on.

A330 giving the (now retired) A300s a run for their money on the "retro" feel.



One last look...


Standard domestic J flight. Wish this had some pepper flakes to go with it.


It's good they park all the able bodied spry guys in front of everyone trying to get their bags.


Bags took a few minutes to get, luckily no one in taxi line with tons of taxis already in the slots waiting. No traffic or meter shenanigans getting to Silom.

RandomBaritone

Phenomenal stuff! I'm trying to convince my husband to do a Thailand trip soon. If we had time to throw one additional country into the mix, would you recommend Laos or Myanmar?

JVPhoto

I've actually been to neither though at the end of the year when I'm back in Thailand I'm planning to go to Angor Wat/Siem Reap and maybe Burma.
The only thing I know about Laos is that it's where all the visa runners go to re-new their stamps.

JVPhoto

Le Méridien Bangkok





Hopped in the cab but for Sunday afternoon there wasn't really even traffic, even when we got on Rama IX. He didn't know the hotel by name but luckily I have enough Thai to give directions & relationship to other known points of interest.



I had stayed at the hotel for 2 nights in December when I was the guest at a wedding held there. Then I booked one of the circle bed rooms to see what it was like. This trip, I wanted to stay at The St. Regis again, but I didn't realize I already booked this pre-paid for a great rate at like $85 for a normal king room. At check-in they "upgraded" me to the circle room on a corner.
I got one of the western ( I want to say Austrian) check-in agents who lacked some of the warmth and charm of a Thai. My rate didn't include breakfast buffet, there's no discount. I thought the F&B discount for SPG gold was across all hotels in the way I get it at The W or Sheraton.




When it comes down to it where I've stayed in order of favorite to least:
St. Regis (x2), Banyan Tree (x3), Le Meridien (x2), The W (x1), JW Marriott (x1), The Renaissance (x1)
Not stayed at but my friends were at The Pullman G (Silom) and they liked it.

I figured I would be taking part in a little Silom Soi 2/4 nightlife which was the reason I booked the hotel, the location. If you do want to go anywhere, even running down to 7/11 you'll need to prepare to ward off all sorts of advances compared to The St. Regis or any of the hotels along Sathorn.

Hurry up and bring it on board United!


Oh Thailand...just what fruit needs, sugar.


I like the buffet here for breakfast better than The W. My friend who lives in Bangkok swears by The W so I had him join me one morning, he still likes The W. I think this is better.




He also then complained the whole time at Virgin he ate too much.


I can't say I did much or anything new these short days. I did eat at Hokkaido just down the street on Surawong from the hotel. Pretty decent place, great staff and all cozy/traditional Japanese style booth tables.


40 hours after arrival I'd be in a taxi heading back to BKK.

RTW4

What a great trip report.. Pics are great... Thank you

JVPhoto

Thai Royal First Lounge & 747 Royal First BKK-SYD

Good bye humidity!


Seems like these were the Songkran "decorations".


I skip the gold coats at the entrance but regardless you get one who takes you through security and passport control.


Once you hit the escalator as always he'll whistle down for the buggy to pull up.


When I arrived I asked them to make my appointment for the massage in 45 min which was no problem.

Enjoyed a hot made to order masamam curry and then some of the serve yourself finger sandwiches.




Had about another 90 min after the massage so got a gang kiaw wan gai and some fruit. Also scoped out the TG President traveling with his wife and son. You could see the lounge attendants hop to it or make other employees know he was there before they passed by the bar area as he was sitting in the suite across from it.


Departure was 7:20 they said they would take us at 7:00 but we actually left at 6:50 as it took us 10 min to walk to D7.



As luck would have it got the "suite"-ish 747. I just realized this trip the flowers are fake. Should have noticed when they didn't move during take off. I wanted to take them and silhouette a shot in the morning before landing and then realized they were stuck in there for good.


At least the PJs were a better color than the pewter/mauve ones. Got the same dark turd brown Rimowa.





Tasty amuse.


Caviar with all the "fixin's".



Scallops were a little chewy but all in all the whole plate was tasty.


Instead of ordering from the menu I did the Thai Set #5 which is stir fry spicy basil chicken, rice, tom yum, lemongrass chicken.


The fried white fish and omlette were too greasy.


Skipped the black/white sticky rice desert for fruit from the cheese cart and a protein shake.



After an off and on foggy 5 hours of sleep time for breakfast with a nice full table set up.


Not too much flavor on the plate would have loved for any of the sauce/chili/vinegar on any table in Thailand.

The crew was great, of course found it amusing that I was a farang study Thai and knew more than hi/bye/thankyou. I do think the uniforms need an update.
I post this on the TG forum:
How old are the current Thai FA uniforms?

Got off BKK-SYD this morning in F. During breakfast my IFE became so laggy I decided to ignore it and not worth the effort to ask to reset. So I just entertained myself by staring.

I've thought this about the TG uniforms before but wow they are dated and dowdy.

Females:
Their "Thai silks" on boarding and first meal service are nice and do the part.
But then they change into the muted & tonal purple/pinks not to mention the smock they put on which makes them look like a Kindy teacher about to do finger painting with the students.

Males:
The shirts and jackets make me think of bathroom attendants at the country club or a maitre d from the late 80s/early 90s. Even if they are younger gents it just feels old.

Now when you see WE crew walking through BKK they really pop out in a good way.
Not saying they have to be like that...but TG surely can spruce it up but still stick with their branding.

I also think TG needs new dishes for F!



On arrival the halls were empty up to immigration counters/smart gates. I used the first smart gate I saw before the duty free walk through and in the event it turned out being swamped once I got through. Once through customs looked very backed up but quickly started to clear. Once we got our bags I used the expedited pass and was in the arrival hall in seconds.

Since it was only about 8:00 at this time I decided to kill a bit of time and hop on the wifi and have a coffee before taking a cab to Bondi. Figured kill as much time since the room most likely wouldn't be ready and I didn't have a friend to meet until lunch.

TOMFORD

I am so incredibly in love with your Thailand trips, even having just returned from Thailand myself, I still can't get enough of these Thai adventures.

PS: hippies are the worst.

offerendum

Not a fan either, but the worst?

TOMFORD

It's just an expression

aeroman380

Nice report! I would have bought half of the airline t-shirts if they were decent quality! Thanks for the tip!

JVPhoto

Not the worst in that I get to reap the benefits from all the places in Pai serving kefir, kombucha and super foods.

Hey for $4/each are you going to complain?

brg

Fab report. Very real world.
I have to go to Thailand for an extended visit sometime