A Trip To DR Congo & Rwanda
My trip to DR Congo and Rwanda, getting to spend a magical hour with some of the last remaining mountain gorilla's, climbing Mt. Nyiragongo and feeling the heat from the world's largest lava lake, and a sombre visit to the genocide memorials at Ntarama and Nyamata.
My previous TR's can be found below: A Trip to Afghanistan A Journey Through Kyrgyzstan A Trip Around The Arabian Gulf A Trip To Yemen A Trip To Jordan & Israel A Southern African Adventure Road Trip to Saudi Arabia & Qatar Five Days In Japan Underground In New Zealand A Trip To Iran A Trip Around The Mediterranean A Long Weekend In Paris A Trip To Ukraine, Belarus & Russia A Trip To Kenya & Tanzania Beautiful Thailand To Muscat For A Travel Magazine Everest in Full Picture A Trip To Bali & Dili A Trip To Northern Iraq Winter Trip To Europe Christmas In Mogadishu A Trip To Sudan |
Day 1.
At Dubai Airport at 4am for my early morning flight to Kigali. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...FN4/0/O/01.jpg My flights for the trip were a direct flight from Dubai to Kigali (DXB-KGL) and returning via Mombasa (KGL-MBA-DXB) on RwandAir. I booked my flight through Kayak/Vayama for $339 (including $200 taxes/surcharges) as it was $200 cheaper than booking it directly through RwandAir ($339 + $200 taxes/surcharges) for some reason. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...663/0/O/02.gif About to board the Rwandair 737-800 for the 6:25am flight to Kigali, the capital of Rwanda. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...hc2/0/O/03.jpg The Dubai skyline on the horizon and Emirates aircraft lined up on the apron after take-off from DXB. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...hCH/0/O/04.jpg Simple but satisfying breakfast that was served on the ~6 hour flight. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...3j6/0/O/05.jpg We arrived in Kigali on schedule at about ~10:30am. After getting my temperature checked (for Ebola) I lined up to pay my $30 visa on arrival, collect my checked bag and exit the airport by ~11am. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...Wgz/0/O/06.jpg I was then met by my driver, who was aptly called 'Safari' (from the swahili word to travel). http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...Cmx/0/O/07.jpg My first visit to Rwanda would only last ~4 hours as the plan was to drive west and across the border to the city of Goma (the third largest city in DR Congo) via the Rwandan town of Ruhengeri. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...xRQ/0/O/08.jpg We then began the drive west, passing the main Kigali bus station. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...WKn/0/O/09.jpg Riding pillion. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...FHL/0/O/10.jpg On the outskirts of Kigali (right). Easy to see why they call Rwanda the land of a thousand hills. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...4FZ/0/O/11.jpg And some locals saying hello. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...wcw/0/O/12.jpg Schools out. We then drove through the hills and valleys on the road to Ruhengeri. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...5KC/0/O/13.jpg Stopping for a break on the way to Ruhengeri (Safari and the Landcruiser centre). http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...KNm/0/O/14.jpg Fruits. Compared to other African countries, Rwanda felt relatively clean and orderly. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...rh7/0/O/15.jpg After a ~2.5 hour drive from Kigali we finally arrived in Ruhengeri. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...Xns/0/O/16.jpg I then got to meet Ms. Mercy from Amahoro tours whom I had booked and organised my tour with and paid the remaining balance for my trip. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...dV9/0/O/17.jpg Some delicious fish & yoghurt stew, beans, potatoes and rice for lunch. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...wL2/0/O/18.jpg We then continued the drive to Goma. Some tea being grown in the valley. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...T7J/0/O/19.jpg We got to Gisenyi on the Rwandan side of the border at about 2:30pm, and Safari handed me over to my guide from DR Congo, David. After completing exit formalities for Rwanda we walked through no mans land to the DR Congo side. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...tgq/0/O/20.jpg Entry formalities for DR Congo were quite easy, helped no doubt by having my guide David to assist me. If you are visiting Virunga National Park a visa on arrival can be easily organised in advance for $70. I had my yellow fever certificate but they never asked for it. A Canadian I would meet in a few days would have to pay a $20 'fine' for not having various other vaccinations they wanted though. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...Wsh/0/O/21.jpg My hotel room for the next two nights at the Lablise hotel, which was right on Lake Kivu. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...KxD/0/O/22.jpg After crashing out for a few hours, I went for a walk on the streets near my hotel. My guide David recommended not walking about with my camera, so took my phone instead. It was close to one of the UN MONUSCO bases in town. The UN MONUSCO is the most expensive current UN deployment (>20,000 troops) and the only mission currently authorised to actively engage insurgents (as opposed to only shooting when shot at first). http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...ZTH/0/O/23.jpg Every second vehicle on the road seemed to be a white UN 4WD. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...4QK/0/O/24.jpg Dinner back at the hotel, kebab, chips and salad. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...RtX/0/O/25.jpg Day 2. After a good sleep I was up early at 5:30am for a good breakfast. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...GMw/0/O/26.jpg I then got picked up by my guide David for the drive to Virunga National Park to go trekking for Gorilla's on the slopes of Mt. Mikeno. We would also pass Mt. Nyiragongo which I would be camping on the top of tomorrow night. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...cPg/0/O/27.jpg Just before 6am on the drive north with Mt. Nyiragongo, one of Africa's most active volcanoes, in the distance. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...wKZ/0/O/28.jpg Stopping for a closer photo of Mt. Nyiragongo. The volcano last erupted in 2002 with at least 15% of Goma comprising 4,500 buildings being destroyed, leaving ~120,000 people homeless. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...hfv/0/O/29.jpg And Mt. Mikeno (left) and Mt. Karisimbi (right) further up the road. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...DPg/0/O/30.jpg An artillery piece used by the milita during the Congo wars outside a village as we head north. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...9BH/0/O/31.jpg Off to work. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...hTX/0/O/32.jpg Baby. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...HDr/0/O/33.jpg We arrived at a village near the entrance of Virunga National Park at about 6:30am, ready to meet up with the Park Rangers and other trekkers. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...VHk/0/O/34.jpg Church. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...zwH/0/O/35.jpg House. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...f4L/0/O/36.jpg The other trekkers arrived at about 7:30am after apparently being held up by some police in Goma who wanted a bribe before they would let them on their way. There were six other people for the gorilla trekking; one Brit and five Americans. All worked for NGO's in DRC. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...WTP/0/O/37.jpg Parc National des Virunga. Virunga is Africa's oldest nation park and is home to nearly a third of the world’s roughly 900 remaining mountain gorillas. The park lost thousands of elephants and hippopotami during the Congo war years, but its gorillas actually doubled in number. That is partly because they were of less interest to poachers and can hide deeper in the forests, but mostly because of Virunga’s courageous rangers. More than 140 rangers have died protecting Virunga park that was at the centre of the DRC’s carnage. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...Kfj/0/O/38.jpg With my $400 gorilla trekking permit. There are mountain gorillas in Rwanda (permit fee = $750) and Uganda (permit fee = $600), but they attract many more tourists (up to 80 per day in Rwanda versus only 7 for DRC on my day) and are much less wild, while in the DRC you still have them to yourselves. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...LDd/0/O/39.jpg After a briefing by one of the park rangers/guide (in French, although luckily one of our group translated for us) we headed off through the surrounding villages to the park entrance. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...TvW/0/O/40.jpg Trekking through the dense vegetation after entering the park... http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...SmT/0/O/41.jpg ...and into the jungle. Apart from mosquitoes, we came across swarms of ants while trekking and had to literally run to avoid being bitten alive! http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...NJK/0/O/42.jpg Bosko, our ranger/guide, stopping for a break. We trekked for 4 kilometres and as the vegetation was quite thick took us ~ 2 hours. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...7gc/0/O/43.jpg We were trekking along and Bosko asked us to stop. Almost on cue we heard a big gorilla fart! We then took off our bags, got our camera's and prepared ourselves for an amazing encounter with one of man's closest cousins. Our gorilla family was in quite dense jungle/vegetation (can you spot the baby?). http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...4MZ/0/O/44.jpg And from a slightly better angle. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...zx9/0/O/45.jpg I was hoping for overcast clouds (i.e. soft, diffuse light) but no rain and thankfully we were blessed with perfect weather for photographing the gorilla's. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...QzM/0/O/46.jpg http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...gv2/0/O/47.jpg A couple of bigger guys. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...sWQ/0/O/48.jpg Munch, munch. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...Rxw/0/O/49.jpg A juvenile doing some tree climbing. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...rHs/0/O/50.jpg Best mates. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...4mz/0/O/51.jpg If you scratch my back... http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...pXM/0/O/52.jpg Peek-a-boo. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...BGv/0/O/53.jpg Face to face. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...GWs/0/O/54.jpg http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...3pT/0/O/55.jpg http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...Zsn/0/O/56.jpg Having a swing... http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...7QM/0/O/57.jpg http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...Wtz/0/O/58.jpg ...until the inevitable happened and the vine broke and the baby landed back to earth with a gentle thud. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...HzG/0/O/59.jpg http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...KJX/0/O/60.jpg Green spaghetti. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...qrX/0/O/61.jpg Nap time. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...wpw/0/O/62.jpg After a magical and too quick hour amongst these magnificent creatures we bid our farewell. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...7PM/0/O/63.jpg And a photo with our ranger/guide Bosko after an experience of a lifetime! http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...df8/0/O/64.jpg The trek back where we were again inundated with hungry mosquitoes and stinging ants. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...P64/0/O/65.jpg I met up with my guide David again and we drove back to Goma. A memorial for Belgian and German soldiers who fought in Congo during WWI. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...TzQ/0/O/66.jpg And back in Goma at about 3pm. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...R96/0/O/67.jpg We then went to lunch at a local restaurant and ate some delicious local food including beef, sweet potato and baked banana. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...c58/0/O/68.jpg Next stop was the local grocery store to buy food for my volcano trek tomorrow. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...B6S/0/O/69.jpg And got some local bread, cheese and sausage (David on the right). http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...m4K/0/O/70.jpg After the early morning start and the challenging gorilla trekking I took it easy back at the hotel and watched the sun set from my balcony over Lake Kivu. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...f8s/0/O/71.jpg The power then went out for most of Goma so dinner was by candle light in the hotel restaurant. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...vwh/0/O/72.jpg |
Day 3.
An aerial photo of Mt. Nyiragongo (by MONUSCO/Neil Wetmore. Licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0). Today's plan was to trek to the top of the volcano and spend the night camping on the crater edge. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...9z8/0/O/73.jpg After breakfast again at the hotel, I packed my provisions I had bought yesterday for the overnight trip. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...sx9/0/O/74.jpg On the road again with David to Mt. Nyiragongo. These wooden bikes were quite common in Goma, and even had a golden statue of one in the middle of one of the city roundabouts. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...TXS/0/O/75.jpg At the headquarters at the base of Mt. Nyiragongo. After being off limits for tourists for several years due to various fighting, climbing of Mt. Nyiragongo had reopened at the end of last year. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...M7x/0/O/76.jpg The group of people I had met the previous day during the gorilla trekking were planning to climb Mt. Nyiragongo today too. But at the end of the gorilla trek they were seriously pooped, and were having second thoughts about climbing to the top of the 3470 m (11382 ft) tall volcano. Hence after they no-showed, it was just me and a Canadian couple. After a safety briefing (in French again, luckily the Canadians translated for me) we headed off for the ~5 hour trek up the volcano. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...2LX/0/O/77.jpg At our first rest stop, with our three porters far right, and our rangers/guides, Jean-Phil and Cyril in the middle. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...Rg2/0/O/78.jpg After venturing through the jungle on the lower slopes, the track then became loose volcanic rubble. Not too hard to climb up but you had to be sure you had a solid footing. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...BzG/0/O/79.jpg Stopping at the second rest stop next to some solidified lava flow. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...qf6/0/O/80.jpg And some local flora. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...dmp/0/O/81.jpg Meeting with some other rangers on the climb up. The Canadian girl, Avery, was working in Goma for UNESCO, and had been brought up in various African countries as her parents were diplomats. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...4rQ/0/O/82.jpg Stopping for lunch at about 1pm. Tuna, cheese and peanut butter sandwiches, which were actually pretty tasty! http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...FZ9/0/O/83.jpg And looking up to the cloud covered peak. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...2wH/0/O/84.jpg Wild blackberries, which were quite delicious. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...qXS/0/O/85.jpg The vegetation got sparser and less dense as we gained altitude. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...sDx/0/O/86.jpg Making the scramble up the last few ~100 metres. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...mXc/0/O/87.jpg After 5 tough hours we finally made it!!! The elevation at the headquarters where we started was 1,994 metres so we climbed almost 1,500 vertical metres to reach the top of 3470 m (11382 ft) tall Mt. Nyiragongo. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...7DF/0/O/88.jpg My cabin for the night with my well travelled sleeping bag (has now slept in it in 9 countries). The rope at the bottom leads to... http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...HBH/0/O/89.jpg ... the abseil down to the toilet!!! http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...TcM/0/O/90.jpg Peering over the edge into the volcano crater. In 2007 a Chinese lady got a little too close and perished when she slipped and fell in. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...Qtp/0/O/91.jpg And a panoramic shot to show how close we were camping to the crater edge. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...9sD/0/O/92.jpg At about 5pm we had some VIP visitors from the Howard G. Buffett foundation who 'cheated' and skipped the climb by landing their helicopter just below the top and scrambled up the last ~200 metres. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...g8w/0/O/93.jpg A portrait shot of a very photogenic Cyril. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...rDx/0/O/94.jpg As the sun started to dip below the horizon and the light started to dim, the glorious colours of the red hot lava and blue light at dusk started to appear. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...3Mj/0/O/95.jpg The lava lake is ~190 metres (~600 ft) across, and is the largest lava lake in the world. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...NRc/0/O/96.jpg It was so mesmorising to watch the lava lake bubble and erupt away, and I spent a good hour just watching and gazing at the awesome spectacle. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...s5H/0/O/97.jpg I had my sausages and bread for dinner. Our rangers also cooked us up some goat stew and casava which was very tasty too. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...9Nn/0/O/98.jpg The moon rising above glowing steam over the crater edge. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...fCS/0/O/99.jpg I went to bed at about 9pm but got up at 2am when the clouds had cleared and got an amazing view of the starry sky over Goma. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...NM/0/O/100.jpg And the volcano steam reflecting the amazing glowing red from the lava lake. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...mD/0/O/101.jpg Day 4. I was up again just before dawn to get one last look at the volcano crater. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...Rj/0/O/102.jpg And looking east to the summit of Mt. Karisimbi. The puff of steam coming from the bottom right is where the toliet used to be, but it collapsed into the hole and is now a steaming vent on the side of the crater. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...nh/0/O/103.jpg Looking down the mountain side to the smaller crater. This crater is where lava collected during the 2002 eruption before breaching and running down to Goma. Due to the mineral content of the lava, the speed of the lava reached up to 60 kph (versus walking speed for lava in places like Hawaii). http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...gB/0/O/104.jpg Getting ready for the hike back down after a quick breakfast of muesli bars. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...wx/0/O/105.jpg Must have taken quite a bit of skill to land a helicopter here! http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...SG/0/O/106.jpg Making our descent. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...bZ/0/O/107.jpg Blue skies as we made our way down. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...jS/0/O/108.jpg A chameleon we spotted! http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...fM/0/O/109.jpg And back down into the jungle. The climb down took us just over 3 hours. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...ZK/0/O/110.jpg Getting a photo with Jean-Phil and Cyril after a successful descent. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...PX/0/O/111.jpg David was waiting for me and we drove back into Goma to pick up my stuff at the hotel. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...nH/0/O/112.jpg We then went back to the DRC/Rwanda border. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...39/0/O/113.jpg Where I met up with Safari again for the drive back to Kigali. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...bm/0/O/114.jpg We stopped in Ruhengeri again at the Hotel Muhabura, famous for being where Dian Fossey (of 'Gorillas in the Mist' fame) stayed when she was in town. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...hF/0/O/115.jpg And had some tasty pork chops for lunch. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...jN/0/O/116.jpg We arrived back in Kigali just after 4pm. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...cS/0/O/117.jpg My hotel for my one night stay in Kigali, the Hôtel des Mille Collines (Hotel Rwanda). http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...Gz/0/O/118.jpg I checked into my room and had a nice hot shower. Just what the doctor ordered after three days of some serious trekking! http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...XS/0/O/119.jpg View from the top floor over the hotel pool and the city of Kigali. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...wt/0/O/120.jpg A memorial to the hotel staff that were killed during the 1994 genocide. Over a thousand refugees were sheltered at the hotel during the genocide. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...LK/0/O/121.jpg After a bit of a rest, I went to the pool side bar for a drink. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...bd/0/O/122.jpg And had the Nile perch for dinner. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...2T/0/O/123.jpg And treated myself to some chocolate pudding for dessert after all the exercise after the past few days. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...gg/0/O/124.jpg Day 5. I got up at 7:30am and went for a run in Kigali. My legs were still stiff after the trekking and the hilly streets of Kigali were very unforgiving too! I then had a decent breakfast at the hotel. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...2P/0/O/125.jpg At about 10am I caught up with my driver I had organised for the day. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...Vt/0/O/126.jpg The plan was to drive south of Kigali to the Genocide Memorials at Nyamata and Ntarama. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...NZ/0/O/127.jpg When violence broke out during the 1994 genocide began, many Tutsi's took refuge in churches. This time however, the church did not save them from being slaughtered, with ~5,000 people being murdered at Ntarama. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...Tq/0/O/128.jpg Ntarama Church has now been preserved as a small memorial. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...jW/0/O/129.jpg Cross. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...gk/0/O/130.jpg Bible. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...tT/0/O/131.jpg With the Tutsi's sheltering inside the church, sledge hammers were used to punch holes to gain access. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...s7/0/O/132.jpg Clothing from the many victims. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...KW/0/O/133.jpg Where the brick wall was broken to throw in grenades. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...fZ/0/O/134.jpg It was a very sombre and moving experience. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...8s/0/O/135.jpg We then drove on to Nyamata, another church where Tutsi's attempted to shelter. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...M7/0/O/136.jpg Blood spatters and bullet holes were visible on the walls and roof. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...qj/0/O/137.jpg After a very moving morning, we headed back to Kigali and stopped at an Indian restaurant for lunch. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...gd/0/O/138.jpg After lunch, I went to the Kigali Genocide Museum. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...2S/0/O/139.jpg The museum was very educational, and detailed how previously the separation between minority Tutsi's and majority Hutu's used to be largely socio-economic. It wasn't until the Belgian colonists arrived and started categorising the population based on nose length and how 'european' they looked etc. (on the belief that 'european' looking Africans would be better able to govern) that the differences became engrained as being based on race/ethnicity. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...DC/0/O/140.jpg One of the beautiful stained glass windows at the museum. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...Fp/0/O/141.jpg Photo's of some of the genocide victims. Several days after the genocide started, the UN security council met to discuss the request by Roméo Dallaire, the force commander of UNAMIR, for reinforcements. New Zealand, who held the UN Security Council presidency at the time, was the only country that supported this reinforcement. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...Rm/0/O/142.jpg A memorial outside the museum in the Rwandan language of Kinyarwanda, with the importance of educating tomorrows generation and avoiding a repeat of the past. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...7t/0/O/143.jpg The remains of ~250,000 Rwandans are interred on the grounds of the Kigali Genocide Memorial. The UN Security Council later accepted responsibility for failing to stop the genocide. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...mc/0/O/144.jpg Back at Kigali International for the flight back to DXB. http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...XQ/0/O/145.jpg And about to board the RwandAir 737-800 for the trip back home after an amazing trip to DR Congo and Rwanda! http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/DRCRW...pH/0/O/146.jpg |
Moving, beatiful and unforgetable! Thank you very much for sharing.
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Your photos are inspiring. Thank you so much for sharing, what a great TR ^
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Wow, those photos on the volcano are stunning. Absolutely amazing.
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A brilliant trip report - many thanks for sharing. Very moving but I was struck by the beautiful countryside and people.
Regards aks120 |
Originally Posted by AhogZ
(Post 24546526)
Moving, beatiful and unforgetable! Thank you very much for sharing.
Originally Posted by Madone59
(Post 24546590)
Your photos are inspiring. Thank you so much for sharing, what a great TR ^
Originally Posted by mpkz
(Post 24546605)
Wow, those photos on the volcano are stunning. Absolutely amazing.
Originally Posted by aks120
(Post 24546834)
A brilliant trip report - many thanks for sharing. Very moving but I was struck by the beautiful countryside and people.
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And again I really enjoyed your report
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Wow. Just wow.
As always, thanks for sharing yet another one of your great experiences. |
Stunning trip report as usual. Thanks so much for the wonderful pics and commentary
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Amazing TR! I was planning to do this as well this summer so it was great to see it in action. I can't imagine a better itinerary than the one you did in that many days.
1) What lens did you use for gorillas? In the past I've used 70-200 pretty much exclusively. 2) Who said they are "more wild" there? 3) How was the tour company you used? I had a short conversation with them and they were quick to reply, but basically ignored my request and just sent a default itinerary. |
Amazing, and moving... thank you :)
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Yours are always my favourite trip reports, this one did not disappoint. Thanks for sharing.
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Wanna go.
Really amazing trip report. |
Excellent report, and was a great memory jogger for my trip to Rwanada. I also went with Amahoro Tours, but saw the Gorillias in Rwanda (when it was $500). It's amazing to see them - amazing creatures. Nice that you got to visit the DRC. I was quoted nearly $300 for a visa, so didn't go. The volcano photos are out of this world!
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What a fantastic, fascinating TR that kept getting more powerful as you moved from the gorillas to the volcano to the memorial. Thanks for sharing all this.
Back to the gorillas: how far away from them were you when you snapped those incredible photos? |
Fabulous report - a break from the standard TR. Stunning pics too, gorillas instead of a luxury hotel, incredible 👍
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I really enjoyed this Daniel, can't remember a trip report on DRC before. The lava lake is amazing
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Amazing and inspiring TR! Your photos were fantastic.
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Your reports are truly inspiring and your photos are wonderful. The night by the side of the volcano/lava lake looked so amazing! Thanks for sharing.
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The volcano and that night sky are magical. Simply magical. Thank you sharing.
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Amazing pictures DanielW. Thank you for posting another unique report.
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What an amazing and unique report! All the photos were quite nice, however the ones of the lava pool and starry sky on the volcano were truly extraordinary. ^
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Stunning photos and report! Honestly, those shots of the volcano at night, combined with the stars are incredible. Seeing the night sky next to a lava lake is not something I ever pictured together, but now....gotta convince/entice my SO to make the trip.
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Fantastic report once again from places most of us would never even consider.
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Awesome TR, enjoyed every bit of it :)
Stopping for a break on the way to Ruhengeri Some delicious fish & yoghurt stew, beans, potatoes and rice for lunch. Virunga is Africa's oldest nation park and is home to nearly a third of the world’s roughly 900 remaining mountain gorillas. There are mountain gorillas in Rwanda (permit fee = $750) and Uganda (permit fee = $600), but they attract many more tourists (up to 80 per day in Rwanda versus only 7 for DRC on my day) and are much less wild For the story in Rwanda, back in February, a "drunk" gorilla punched a photographer... These wooden bikes were quite common in Goma when the clouds had cleared and got an amazing view of the starry sky over Goma. Blood spatters and bullet holes were visible on the walls and roof. Many thanks for sharing |
amazing TR and photos, thanks for sharing! ^
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Wow what an amazing report! Just when I thought the gorillas were the peak of the whole trip, I then saw the images at the volcano. Amazing! Really felt like we were there on the trip - you know, minus the mosquitos, swarming ants, and outhouses.
Looks like you had a 400mm lens with you (or some other big prime)? How did you get the shot of the stars and the town? I'm amazed that the stars came out so well even with the light coming from the town. |
Great, refreshing trip report
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Originally Posted by offerendum
(Post 24546871)
And again I really enjoyed your report
Originally Posted by theshaun
(Post 24547014)
Wow. Just wow.
As always, thanks for sharing yet another one of your great experiences.
Originally Posted by goteed1
(Post 24547152)
Stunning trip report as usual. Thanks so much for the wonderful pics and commentary
Originally Posted by cheesedawg
(Post 24547202)
Amazing TR! I was planning to do this as well this summer so it was great to see it in action. I can't imagine a better itinerary than the one you did in that many days.
1) What lens did you use for gorillas? In the past I've used 70-200 pretty much exclusively. 2) Who said they are "more wild" there? 3) How was the tour company you used? I had a short conversation with them and they were quick to reply, but basically ignored my request and just sent a default itinerary. 1. I took my 70-200 f2.8 & 300 f2.8 lenses, and a 1.4x extender too. I swapped between the two lenses while we were there (although a second camera body would have been more ideal). 2. The gorilla's in Rwanda being 'less wild' than compared to DRC was in an article I read: http://www.ft.com/intl/cms/s/2/c4489...44feabdc0.html 3. I had no problems with Amahoro. I booked a 'default' tour though, so I was a easy client for them.
Originally Posted by SAtraveller
(Post 24547216)
Amazing, and moving... thank you :)
Originally Posted by HighlandExpress
(Post 24547394)
Yours are always my favourite trip reports, this one did not disappoint. Thanks for sharing.
Originally Posted by LivelyFL
(Post 24547407)
Wanna go.
Really amazing trip report.
Originally Posted by shefgab
(Post 24547598)
Excellent report, and was a great memory jogger for my trip to Rwanada. I also went with Amahoro Tours, but saw the Gorillias in Rwanda (when it was $500). It's amazing to see them - amazing creatures. Nice that you got to visit the DRC. I was quoted nearly $300 for a visa, so didn't go. The volcano photos are out of this world!
Originally Posted by Thunderroad
(Post 24547679)
What a fantastic, fascinating TR that kept getting more powerful as you moved from the gorillas to the volcano to the memorial. Thanks for sharing all this.
Back to the gorillas: how far away from them were you when you snapped those incredible photos?
Originally Posted by mike&co
(Post 24547798)
Fabulous report - a break from the standard TR. Stunning pics too, gorillas instead of a luxury hotel, incredible
Originally Posted by zanskar
(Post 24547981)
I really enjoyed this Daniel, can't remember a trip report on DRC before. The lava lake is amazing
Originally Posted by MileTex
(Post 24548137)
Amazing and inspiring TR! Your photos were fantastic.
Originally Posted by chelsea2
(Post 24548328)
Your reports are truly inspiring and your photos are wonderful. The night by the side of the volcano/lava lake looked so amazing! Thanks for sharing.
Originally Posted by themapelligroup
(Post 24548496)
The volcano and that night sky are magical. Simply magical. Thank you sharing.
Originally Posted by jacobac00
(Post 24548625)
Amazing pictures DanielW. Thank you for posting another unique report.
Originally Posted by cmd320
(Post 24548693)
What an amazing and unique report! All the photos were quite nice, however the ones of the lava pool and starry sky on the volcano were truly extraordinary. ^
Originally Posted by PitaPan
(Post 24548885)
Stunning photos and report! Honestly, those shots of the volcano at night, combined with the stars are incredible. Seeing the night sky next to a lava lake is not something I ever pictured together, but now....gotta convince/entice my SO to make the trip.
Originally Posted by Fredrik74
(Post 24548890)
Fantastic report once again from places most of us would never even consider.
Originally Posted by flying_blue_white_red
(Post 24548979)
Awesome TR, enjoyed every bit of it :)
Interesting how this town is a compulsory stop for every coaster and safari vehicle Humm, it really looks like peanut sauce... ;) Too bad eventual future oil exploration could threaten the gorilla habitat in the Virunga Do you remenber which group of Gorilla you visited? For the story in Rwanda, back in February, a "drunk" gorilla punched a photographer... Indeed and they are called tshukudu. Wow beautiful picture being probably my favorite, well done! When i was there in 2013 i was denied taking photos, glad to see the policy has changed Many thanks for sharing
Originally Posted by benjahman
(Post 24549451)
amazing TR and photos, thanks for sharing! ^
Originally Posted by shogunate03
(Post 24549606)
Wow what an amazing report! Just when I thought the gorillas were the peak of the whole trip, I then saw the images at the volcano. Amazing! Really felt like we were there on the trip - you know, minus the mosquitos, swarming ants, and outhouses.
Looks like you had a 400mm lens with you (or some other big prime)? How did you get the shot of the stars and the town? I'm amazed that the stars came out so well even with the light coming from the town. My main lens was a 300mm f2.8. I put a 1.4x extender for some shots though (so it effectively became a 420mm f4 lens). I just put my camera on a small table and did a long exposure for the stars shot. Not much electricity in Goma so the city lights didn't over power the light from the stars.
Originally Posted by cardinalkid1891
(Post 24549990)
Great, refreshing trip report
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Spectacular all around. Good on you for pushing limits and exploring this world!
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Awesome pictures and report as usual.... I agree the Rwanda memorial was quite moving. I really wanted to visit Goma/Virunga but the M23 rebels were still active when I was there a few years ago (http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-...land-more.html). And then my 2nd try to visit DRC was thwarted by a coup attempt when I was about to land in Kinshasa! ironmanjt and I did finally manage to get over to DRC but only for a daytrip (http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-...go-angola.html).
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Originally Posted by schreibsman
(Post 24551501)
Spectacular all around. Good on you for pushing limits and exploring this world!
Originally Posted by hauteboy
(Post 24551661)
Awesome pictures and report as usual.... I agree the Rwanda memorial was quite moving. I really wanted to visit Goma/Virunga but the M23 rebels were still active when I was there a few years ago (http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-...land-more.html). And then my 2nd try to visit DRC was thwarted by a coup attempt when I was about to land in Kinshasa! ironmanjt and I did finally manage to get over to DRC but only for a daytrip (http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-...go-angola.html).
I asked my DRC guide David if he had ever been to Kinshasa and he said he had been three times. I asked if it was by bus and he just laughed at me and said that it was almost impossible to travel by road that far across the country. The return flight was $1000, not cheap for a domestic flight! |
Fantastic report as usual
Great photos Where next? ;) |
Fantastic.
Is it safe now to go to Congo instead of to Rwanda for gorilla spotting? Was it very hot? Was the walk difficult? I am older than you. For the Permit I assume you had to pay cash? I don't recall. What Travel Agency in Kigali did you prepay your trip with? It worries me if I have no clue who to book with. |
Excellent TR as usual. Thanks for taking the time to visit and share with the rest of us :)
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I always enjoy your wonderful reports! I'll echo others that those volcano pics are stunning!
I lived in the Congo when it was Zaire for a couple years (1989-1991) - w/ US Peace Corps if you are familiar with them. We were the last volunteers ever in zaire and were pulled out, never to return, when things began to be too unstable. I hope to return someday to where I worked (fish farming) but am unsure what I would find. ... I was at a remote village quite a ways southeast of Kikwit. Anyway, i love reading about folks who do venture there and the pics show life goes on as always! I also visited the mountain gorillas in late 1989 when I was doing language training in Bukavu. It was pure joy. I'm not sure how much we paid, or if our group received a discount, but I was a poor kid just out of college and sure didn't have much $ laying around. Thanks for sharing. |
DanielW,
You have the best trip reports. I particularly love the second picture of the lava pool. Its deadly but the colours draw you in. I wonder what it felt like watching the pool in person. ^ /AE |
I had literally countless "Oh My God" moments while watching your pictures.
I probably said it in one of your earlier reports and I will say it again - You sir, are a legend. And those pictures of lava...I was mesmerized and spent like half an hour re-reading your report again. Truly living vicariously through you. Can't thank you enough :) |
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