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A Trip To Northern Iraq
My trip to Northern Iraq. My previous TR's can be found below:
A Trip to Afghanistan A Journey Through Kyrgyzstan A Trip Around The Arabian Gulf A Trip To Yemen A Trip To Jordan & Israel A Southern African Adventure Road Trip to Saudi Arabia & Qatar Five Days In Japan Underground In New Zealand A Trip To Iran A Trip Around The Mediterranean A Long Weekend In Paris A Trip To Ukraine, Belarus & Russia A Trip To Kenya & Tanzania Beautiful Thailand To Muscat For A Travel Magazine Everest in Full Picture A Trip To Bali & Dili |
I flew from Dubai International Airport (DXB) to Sulaymaniyah (ISU) with a ~19 hour layover in Doha (DOH), then returning from Erbil (EBL) to Al Maktoum International Airport (DWC) via Doha.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7533/...9e593c27_o.gif While in northern Iraq I travelled overland from Sulaymaniyah to Erbil via the towns of Dokan and Koya. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5611/...61cb585e_o.jpg Day 0. At Dubai International Airport (DXB) in the afternoon after work. I had checked in online, and when I got to the gate and the agent scanned my boarding pass it make a weird 'beep'. After a few taps on the computer he asked if I had a visa for Sulaymaniyah. I told him I was eligible for a visa on arrival, and he then told me to have a seat while he did some investigation. I was worried about being denied boarding due to an uninformed gate agent, but after stressing for 15 minutes he came back and said everything was ok. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5602/...6c4a3c6a_o.jpg A couple of gentlemen waiting at the gate with some unusual hand luggage for the flight to Doha:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7469/...be798b5e_o.jpg A QR 787 for the 45 minute flight. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5604/...602a6451_o.jpg And in the back with the mere mortals. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7486/...91f90443_o.jpg Chicken sandwich, cake and OJ for the short flight. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7513/...8067e635_o.jpg And on to the bus after arrival at Hamad International. https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8669/...4279e904_o.jpg Catching a taxi into Doha. Couldn't work out where the meter was until I realised it was the red digits in the rear view mirror:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7490/...68af0c1e_o.jpg At my hotel in Doha. As it was only a short layover I just wanted something cheap and close to Souq Waqif. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7480/...859ca35c_o.jpg Not too bad for $65 (including breakfast). https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3956/...30669e22_o.jpg Grocery. It was only 8pm so I went out for a walk to get some fresh air and dinner. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5616/...f0fd7441_o.jpg Barber. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7547/...d8a67e57_o.jpg At the bustling Souq Waqif. Great and relaxing atmosphere on the Thursday evening. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7521/...204b00a7_o.jpg And the interesting architecture. A nice change from lots of glass and shiny stuff. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7473/...abc841f3_o.jpg They had some local men doing traditional dancing which was great to watch. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3942/...e67fbb94_o.jpg And grilled lamb for dinner at an arabic restaurant at Souq Waqif. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7562/...873a7bce_o.jpg The Museum of Islamic Art on the waterfront. I went for a walk along the corniche before heading back to the hotel for the night. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3953/...a6dfb17f_o.jpg Day 1. The view from my room at dawn on day 1. I went for a run along the corniche at 6:30am and was absolutely amazed by the hundreds of people out and about on the corniche at that hour. Out walking, running, fishing, playing in the playgrounds, there was even a group of ~200 filipino's doing outdoor aerobics:). Great way for everyone to start the day! https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7510/...9333f69a_o.jpg A mixture of western and arabic food for breakfast back at the hotel. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7577/...e76a927e_o.jpg Cafeteria. My flight to Sulaymaniyah didn't leave until the afternoon so I went out exploring again. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5603/...bd9876a9_o.jpg At the lively bird markets. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7567/...876978c4_o.jpg Lots of different kinds of birds, including these colourful ones:). https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3943/...6afff979_o.jpg Auction in progress. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5608/...f76ceac1_o.jpg And plenty of pigeons about too. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7499/...7cdfafd5_o.jpg The seemingly forever evolving skyline of the Doha diplomatic district. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7491/...5f43ef4b_o.jpg Qatar flags on the dhows on the corniche. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5610/...26a3fa62_o.jpg Late morning sugar fix:). https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3954/...6d30950d_o.jpg Back at Hamad International at departures. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3954/...7fb947dc_o.jpg Air-side after passing through immigration and security. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7495/...98945a34_o.jpg A turkey and cheese melt at the food court. I was planning to have lunch on the plane but the flight to Sulaymaniyah was delayed by ~2 hours due to aircraft technical issues. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3943/...d8769706_o.jpg After a gate swap, a new boarding pass and a few disgruntled passengers we were almost ready to go. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5614/...28d9d3e7_o.jpg Beef and potatoes for the ~2 hour flight. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3953/...84eba08f_o.jpg Disembarking at ~5pm at Sulaymaniyah International Airport. The landing approach took us over Kirkuk and the surrounding mountains. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3951/...8ba0aef0_o.jpg With my 15 day visa to Iraqi Kurdistan after going through immigration and security within minutes . https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3944/...59d0c5fc_o.jpg Catching a ride into Sulaymaniyah for $15. My driver, Serwan, was quite friendly and eager to practice his english. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7574/...124da45b_o.jpg At my hotel for my night in Sulaymaniyah. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7564/...71fe3d8c_o.jpg Nice and spacious for $90 a night. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3948/...a0173bdb_o.jpg I then went for walk to the nearest ATM at the local supermarket to get some Iraqi dinars. I also bought some water and snacks for 2,500 dinars, or about $2. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3945/...42511253_o.jpg In the local park after being asked for a 'soura' (photo):). https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3939/...64f597fa_o.jpg A monument to Kurdish army officers who defected from the Iraqi army to the Kurdish resistance. When Saddam announced an amnesty they turned themselves in, only to be sent to Baghdad to be executed. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7559/...bf19f5c4_o.jpg Chai & cigarettes. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3952/...85f9e7ba_o.jpg Traffic Police. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3942/...7bb4b589_o.jpg Portraits. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7539/...9032c34b_o.jpg Bus stop. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3949/...7d4e2686_o.jpg Mural. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3951/...4be10934_o.jpg Ladies. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5614/...f7c5c446_o.jpg After a bit of walkabout, I went to the Cultural Cafe for dinner. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7562/...382c720b_o.jpg And had some tasty shish taouk and pistachio dessert before calling it a night. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5609/...a170ab17_o.jpg |
Day 2.
The view from my room at dawn on day 2 with Sulaymaniyah's Azadi Park top right. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7529/...826db01e_o.jpg Lots of carbs for breakfast:). https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3950/...c57f76f9_o.jpg Morning chai. After checking out of the hotel, I went for a walkabout again, this time to the market area. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7579/...c37b9480_o.jpg Chickens. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7463/...b8ea9677_o.jpg Small goods. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5606/...f34736fc_o.jpg Grains. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7540/...407139e4_o.jpg Merchant. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5616/...8987d495_o.jpg Street corner. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5604/...7937d8a9_o.jpg Çar (four). https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3938/...30ca8c14_o.jpg Breakfast. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3943/...7b5168f1_o.jpg The Grand Mosque of Sulaymaniyah. Before I took this photo, I was approached by an official looking man (who turned out to be a plain clothed police officer) and directed to follow him. He then took me to the mosque custodian who spoke english. They were both very pleasant and after realising I was just a harmless tourist they said it was ok to photograph the mosque. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7516/...6a82de7c_o.jpg Prayer beads. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7540/...3211394a_o.jpg Workshop. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3939/...287300ec_o.jpg I then walked to the Amna Suraka, or Red security prison. Under Saddam Hussein’s regime the complex served as the northern headquarters of the Iraqi Intelligence Service, or the Mukhabarat. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3944/...7a4cc5b1_o.jpg Some Saddam-era tanks and APC's. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7505/...38293ddf_o.jpg Thousands of people, mainly Kurds, and including children, were imprisoned, tortured and killed here. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7503/...b2d8c703_o.jpg Weapons from the Kurdish resistance. In 1991 the Kurdish Peshmerga attacked and liberated the prison. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7572/...69b86bcc_o.jpg Chemical Weapon. In 2003 the prison was turned into a war-crimes museum. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5615/...7b7a5a72_o.jpg Names of female prisoners killed at Amna Suraka. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3939/...360161e9_o.jpg The Hall of Mirrors, lined with 182,000 shards of mirrored glass, one for every victim of Saddam’s Anfal campaign. The ceiling has ~4500 lights, one for every Kurdish village destroyed under Saddam. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5604/...4c668aa7_o.jpg Soldier. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3947/...0561619a_o.jpg Green beret. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5606/...739935ec_o.jpg I then met up with my guide/driver I had organised for the day, Sardar, and headed out of Sulaymaniyah for the journey west to Erbil. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7476/...a1f2edf5_o.jpg Quite a scenic drive with the beautiful and unique landscape. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3950/...5d110ac2_o.jpg After about an hour we stopped for a break. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5605/...099e77e1_o.jpg And had some sugary chai. Sardar was born and raised in Erbil and also works as a journalist fixer. We had a good chat about recent events in Iraq and the rise of ISIS. Along with security concerns, the threat of ISIS has also led to a slowdown in the Iraqi Kurdistan economy. It was also interesting that although he has lived his whole life in Erbil, he has never visited the city of Mosul, which is only 90 kilometres away. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7473/...d6c304da_o.jpg We then headed to Lake Dukan, created in the 1950's by the construction of the Dukan Dam. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5611/...b38a569a_o.jpg In the summer evenings, families come to have picnic's as well fish and ride boats in the lake. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5614/...d8fdf7d7_o.jpg The town of Dukan near the Lake. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3951/...e2b70088_o.jpg On the other side of the valley, with Lake Dukan centre and snow capped mountains on the border of Iran in the distance. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5615/...91a81e86_o.jpg We then drove on west to Koya through slightly more arid landscapes. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3937/...86619985_o.jpg When we got to Koya, we went to visit the old caravanserai, or an inn used for travellers and their horses to rest and recover. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3939/...927b4d06_o.jpg There was also a group of students there on an excursion. They were quite surprised to see a westerner, and invited Sardar and myself to join them for a picnic:). https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3940/...d5d068d6_o.jpg The excursion was organised by the education ministry and a TV channel, and we swapped Sardar's Nissan for a ride in their black Mercedes for the ride up the mountain for the picnic. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7580/...050bfa93_o.jpg The TV crew BBQing the lamb and chicken kebabs. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3938/...c790d083_o.jpg Enjoying a picnic out in the afternoon sun. The students were really interested why someone would come to Iraqi Kurdistan for vacation, as their concept of going on holiday was just to go somewhere to relax and have fun. With Sardar interpreting, I managed to explain that visiting new places and experiencing new cultures can be very enlighting and just as fun and exciting as a more traditional holiday:). https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3948/...29d1c4c4_o.jpg The students singing traditional Kurdish folk songs. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3941/...c179a3a5_o.jpg After saying farewell and thanking everyone for the awesome hospitality and great afternoon, we headed back down the mountain to the Ottoman-era Koya fort. https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8592/...758ba160_o.jpg We got there just on dusk so had some great colours in the sky. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7500/...0beee39c_o.jpg We then headed west again for the ~60 minute drive to Erbil. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7577/...71a0933e_o.jpg On the outskirts of Erbil. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3956/...1448d1d4_o.jpg At my hotel in Erbil, where I said goodbye to Sardar and thanked him for the great day and to make sure to recommend him to other intrepid travellers:). https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3956/...1ab4d041_o.jpg The hotel was only 6 months old, and got a great room for $80 (including breakfast). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7548/...0f82a8c7_o.jpg I then went for a walk through the streets to explore and grab some dinner. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3939/...7dfa2ff4_o.jpg A couple of kebabs, a fruit smoothie and some water for 3,500 dinar (~$3). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7504/...81e49518_o.jpg Father and son at a street side sweet/pastry stall. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3949/...c900c077_o.jpg And I couldn't resist having some too:). https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3946/...8c143c70_o.jpg Day 3. A decent breakfast at the start of day 3. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7511/...f24fe2eb_o.jpg The view from my room on the morning on day 3. The Erbil Citadel, claimed to be the longest continuously inhabited urban-area on earth (for ~8000 years), on the horizon. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3948/...fc105164_o.jpg Erbil's Jalil Khayat Mosque, modelled on the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3953/...1faf23d4_o.jpg The road to Mosul...now closed. https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8257/...c4c7c000_o.jpg I then walked into the centre of Erbil to see the Citadel. Until recently, it was home to Erbil’s poorest residents, many of them refugees who had fled war-torn regions of Iraq. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7475/...1d9ffa57_o.jpg In 2006, the Kurdish government relocated the residents to allow for the restoration of the crumbling walls and buildings. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7562/...888df14d_o.jpg UNESCO and the KRG are slowly rebuilding and restoring the Citadel. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5606/...8e2c180c_o.jpg One family remains in order to not break the continuous habitation streak. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7501/...3b543fa0_o.jpg I then walked south through the Citadel Square. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5606/...aa0dd434_o.jpg Power tool repair. And wandered through the lively markets. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7541/...0c0d070e_o.jpg A great place to take in the atmosphere of bustling Erbil. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5604/...9600b648_o.jpg Family. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7581/...918a9389_o.jpg Cemedanî. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5607/...c2a774f3_o.jpg Above. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5610/...89b10a14_o.jpg While I was in the markets I was hassled by a ~12 year old girl who was begging and whom I guess was a refugee from the recent conflicts. I normally just try and ignore this and walk away, but she was literally trying to pull my arm out of its socket, and refused to let go. I offered 250 dinars, but she refused and wanted more. I tried to break loose but she started pulling on to my shirt instead. I eventually got frustrated and screamed out loud 'La, La, La!!!' (no, no, no) and she took fright and scampered off. At the butcher. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7474/...2fac9a0e_o.jpg Tailor. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7468/...1f11eb90_o.jpg Qaysari Bazaar. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7548/...52d5a2d1_o.jpg I then took a break and had some chai. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3947/...a8ffcdc4_o.jpg Flowers painted on the 6 metre tall blast walls surrounding the Kurdish Parliament. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3945/...554c0afe_o.jpg At Martyr Sami Abdul-Rahman Park. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5609/...f52314b0_o.jpg Roundabout. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7536/...1f9f4e95_o.jpg At a 'DIY' kebab shop for lunch. 2,000 dinars for 2 bottles of water and a lamb kebab. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7542/...4dd10229_o.jpg In the hotel Audi for the ride to Erbil Airport. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3954/...b10d0060_o.jpg Erbil Airport was probably the most secure airport I have visited. The hotel car was searched, passport checked as well as a pat down at the checkpoint at the main entrance. You then drive on to a security building and have your luggage x-rayed etc., and then catch a bus for the 2 kilometer ride to the main airport building. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3950/...e4bd61b2_o.jpg The QR A320 taxiing to gate after arrival from Doha. Also on the horizon is numerous watch towers on the airport perimeter that look out in the direction of Mosul. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7548/...7dda4bcf_o.jpg After take-off the aircraft did numerous steep turns in order to quickly gain altitude and minimise the chance of possible ground attack. Although all the UAE airlines (Emirates, Etihad, Air Arabia and Flydubai) pulled out of flying to Erbil (and why I had to fly Qatar airways) in the wake of ISIS, Flydubai has recently resumed flights again. At Doha airport again for the final flight to Al Maktoum International (DWC). https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3955/...095f1bc7_o.jpg After landing at DWC. Quite eerie to land back in Dubai with no other aircraft in sight:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7548/...745db57b_o.jpg And about to catch a taxi home after a great few days in Northern Iraq:)! https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7515/...877f2e27_o.jpg |
Wow, cool! Is it unsafe to use public transport between the cities, or did you get a guide/driver for some other reason?
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Absolutely stunning photos. Thanks for posting this.
A falcon is quite possible the most bada** carry-on I've ever seen. |
great pics of a trip I would like to do!
I will keep you in mind as your driver sounded great. |
A Trip To Northern Iraq
As always brilliant. One of best traveler journeys I love to read on here. Great as always! (The girl who wanted money should have taken what you offered!)
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Originally Posted by mpkz
(Post 23825265)
Wow, cool! Is it unsafe to use public transport between the cities, or did you get a guide/driver for some other reason?
Originally Posted by LM225
(Post 23825309)
Absolutely stunning photos. Thanks for posting this.
A falcon is quite possible the most bada** carry-on I've ever seen.
Originally Posted by cefiro
(Post 23825342)
great pics of a trip I would like to do!
I will keep you in mind as your driver sounded great.
Originally Posted by Jinxy
(Post 23825370)
As always brilliant. One of best traveler journeys I love to read on here. Great as always! (The girl who wanted money should have taken what you offered!)
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wow.
ISIS are very close by if I am correct? I would be terrified. |
This was particularly interesting to me as a friend is teaching school in Sulaymaniyah. She puts up a few pictures now and again on Facebook but this gave me a much better view of the town.
I loved your pictures of the men with falcons. I was on a flight oh so many years ago from Dubai to Karachi with about 20 falcons. Interesting factoid: 2 falcons are allowed per first class seat. That's not with a person; they have the seat to themselves. |
Stunning photos and a great glimpse into a part of the world that many of us will never see. Thank you.
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And I get pissed when people bring dogs on the plane (I'm allergic)...Falcons would be ok I'm guessing...
Originally Posted by LM225
(Post 23825309)
Absolutely stunning photos. Thanks for posting this.
A falcon is quite possible the most bada** carry-on I've ever seen. |
Brilliant photos!
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Daniel, amazing trip report as always. This was one of the more unique ones, with the falcon carry-ons, joining an all-girls school for a tour, visiting a butcher seemingly specialized in sheep's heads and intestines, and great portraits of the beautiful/handsome Kurds.
Your pictures of Doha are probably also the best I have ever seen. Hope you don't mind that I saved a few for use as desktop backgrounds. Few questions, to gain from your expertise: - How do you ask people for their portraits, and are they usually accepting? - Do you do any post processing of your photos? If so, great job by being understated. - I thought you are from New Zealand. You also got a UK passport? Assuming UK passport is easier for entrance to Kurdistan. Look forward to your reports to come. |
Great report. Really loved the pictures. At my first read thru, I missed falcon other people were talking about. That was so awesome. I enjoyed every bit of your report.
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