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A Trip To Iran
After reading hauteboy's Iran TR last year, I was determined to experience my own Persian adventure:). I organised my trip through the Pars Tourist Agency, and from my great trip can definitely recommend them.
My previous trip reports can be found at the links below: A Trip to Afghanistan A Journey Through Kyrgyzstan A Trip Around The Arabian Gulf A Trip To Yemen A Southern African Adventure Road Trip to Saudi Arabia & Qatar Five Days In Japan Underground In New Zealand |
Day 0.
About to board an Iran Aseman Airlines Fokker F100 at DXB. Iran Aseman are the only airlines that fly direct to Shiraz, Iran from Dubai, and was also a good opportunity to fly a new aircraft/airline too. No online booking and had to buy the ticket with cash at their agency in Dubai. They also only set their schedule ~3 weeks in advance so made planning the trip a bit more difficult, but apart from that I had no major issues. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5570/...2b81cd5e_b.jpg The flight was less than an hour long but was still served a decent meal for dinner:). Me and an Emirati guy were the only tourists on the flight. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5566/...a0081962_b.jpg Sunset other southern Iran. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7452/...1046edbc_b.jpg Disembarking at Shiraz International (SYZ). https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2930/...f42f7bf1_b.jpg After getting my visa on arrival, travel insurance and some rials, picked up my lone bag at baggage claim:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7458/...a1ed6e11_b.jpg In the taxi through the busy streets of Shiraz. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5350/...cb51bc6a_b.jpg Got to the Niayesh Hotel at ~9:30pm and had a quick meet and greet with my guide Ali in the hotel courtyard. The hotel was >100 years old, but had been recently refurbished and was a great place to stay for 2 nights. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7205/...e12e735c_b.jpg |
Day 1.
Traditional Iranian breakfast of jam, eggs & bread in the hotel courtyard. Also got to have carrot jam again for the first time since my Afghanistan trip:). https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5523/...a643d86c_b.jpg I then met up with my guide Ali to see the sights of Shiraz. First stop was Eram (heaven in Persian) garden. Qavam House, built in 1879. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2930/...c4e576c6_b.jpg A lush green place with lots of people enjoying the park. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5445/...4a8e1b95_b.jpg Next stop was Qur'an gate. The gate was built ~1000 years ago and had a copy of the Qur'an at the top of the gate to bless travellers as they entered/exited Shiraz. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5324/...97445883_b.jpg We then went to Arg of Karim Khan, a Citadel built in the 18th century. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2914/...6c876060_b.jpg Some beautiful windows. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2921/...c2cc1ceb_b.jpg Inside was a small orchard of fruit trees & ponds. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7382/...1602c386_b.jpg Bath for the king. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7316/...4bff56ba_b.jpg We then headed into central Shiraz and got to meet the travel agent I had been organising my trip with:). https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5481/...749787dd_b.jpg Then to the currency exchange to get some more rials. Apparently the rial had dropped ~10% in the last few days so people were rushing to cash in their dollars & euro's at the better rate. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2922/...a1d09f0d_b.jpg We then went for a walk around the streets of Shiraz. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/...5cc348b2_b.jpg At Nasir al-Mulk Mosque. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7456/...2400c300_b.jpg At Vakil Bath, an old public bath in Shiraz. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2928/...869b5324_b.jpg We then went for a wander around Vakil Bazaar, the main bazaar in Shiraz, established in the 11th century. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2912/...ce9f6936_b.jpg Fabrics. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7304/...6b95eb33_b.jpg Was a great place to explore and take in the atmosphere of the place. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2926/...c9452b3d_b.jpg Rugs & smile:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7037/...ee304699_b.jpg More rugs:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7354/...4ab232cd_b.jpg Shopping. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5529/...41fd6bbc_b.jpg The people were very friendly and welcoming:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7308/...68f31edd_b.jpg More shopping:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7455/...bdd62548_b.jpg We then went for lunch at a local restaurant. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7203/...53cc3535_b.jpg They was a three-piece band playing traditional Persian music. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7413/...1525dc54_b.jpg Great lunch of chicken and lamb kebab. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7324/...0541b2b6_b.jpg We then went to Shah Cheragh. The interior of the shrine was covered in mirrored tiles, and was a sight to behold:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/...44a88641_b.jpg Some local school girls having lunch while visiting the shrine. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5583/...c0de5147_b.jpg We then visited the tomb of Hafez, a celebrated Persian poet from the 14th century. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5543/...7e6703fb_b.jpg At the mausoleum of Saadi, another famous poet. The mausoleum is also featured on the 100,000 rial note. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7444/...975f7e8a_b.jpg After resting for a bit back at the hotel, I went for a walk around central Shiraz again. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5456/...dd508cbb_b.jpg White Shoes. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5151/...d7896e72_b.jpg Soldiers. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7317/...6dfbaa52_b.jpg A mural memorialising martyrs from the Iran-Iraq war. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5511/...df281a9e_b.jpg Some Shirazi's enjoying the evening. For dinner I had some beef kebab at a local restaurant for 150,000 rials. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5335/...144b45ca_b.jpg Phone booth. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7343/...e71b3e25_b.jpg End of prayers. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7378/...283d3270_b.jpg |
Day 2.
After going for a morning run in Shiraz and breakfast, I hit the road with Ali for the ~400k journey north to Isfahan. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7200/...d3273b84_b.jpg After about 45 mins driving, we stopped at Persopolis, the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire (~500 BC). https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2937/...4d9d0d7b_b.jpg Some ~100 year old graffiti:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7413/...fffa5b0d_b.jpg Persopolis was captured, looted and partially destroyed by Alexander the Great in ~300BC, https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7319/...9289af8b_b.jpg A symbol in Zoroastrian for Nowruz (Persian New Year) — eternally fighting bull (personifying the moon), and a lion (personifying the Sun) representing the Spring. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7349/...5b8689b1_b.jpg Afterwards we visited the nearby tombs of Naqsh-e-Rostam. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5316/...0facfe65_b.jpg The triumph of Shapur I over the Roman Emperor Valerian, and Philip the Arab. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2918/...2264fab0_b.jpg Stopping for petrol before heading north to Isfahan. Petrol was 7000 rials a litre, ($0.82 a gallon). Each car owner gets a card that allows them to purchase 200 litres a month at this price, and have to pay higher for more. The govt was raising the price however, and tomorrow it increased to 10,000 rials a litre. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5341/...ba06384c_b.jpg We stopped off at a road side restaurant and had a tasty lunch. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7412/...0f5b9ee0_b.jpg Also got to try some local beer, non-alcoholic of course though:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7327/...a09c2a08_b.jpg Stopping at a rest stop on the ~400k drive north. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7456/...45832930_b.jpg We got to Isfahan, a city of ~1.9 million at about 5:30pm, and went to see the Siose Bridge. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7433/...36760c6b_b.jpg The bridge was built in 1602 with 33 spans. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7427/...2e8c3fd8_b.jpg It is a popular place for locals to relax... https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7379/...954b575e_b.jpg ...and hangout. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7460/...a2dfe709_b.jpg We then walked down to the Khaju Bridge. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2939/...71d35a6e_b.jpg Due to drought and water diversion, the Zayandeh River has been dry for three years. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7460/...a4b293bb_b.jpg Light. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2929/...8b21a24d_b.jpg Moment. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5544/...e633b865_b.jpg Laughter. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7300/...d6105375_b.jpg Friends. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2940/...e821e514_b.jpg Above. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2908/...220a5d74_b.jpg We then headed to Naqsh-e Jahan Square. In the background is Keisaria gate which opens into the Isfahan Grand Bazaar. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5234/...f934132a_b.jpg Imam Mosque on the other side of the square. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7385/...b3a2682f_b.jpg Some of the locals playing a Jenga type game:). https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5534/...bf2b266a_b.jpg For dinner we went to the Bastani restaurant on the south side of the square. One of the waiters in traditional dress:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7060/...041e12d8_b.jpg Chicken and rice. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2921/...23bf2993_b.jpg After a busy day, got to the hotel just after 10pm at the end of day 2:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7424/...0cf0d976_b.jpg |
Day 3.
For the start of day 3 we went to Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5532/...56d97214_b.jpg The white script on dark blue are verses from the holy qur'an. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7446/...94441e81_b.jpg Then to the western side of the square to the Ālī Qāpū Palace. Polo used to be played in the sqaure, with the king looking on from the palace. Unfortunately as it was Friday the Imam Mosque (top right) was closed for prayers. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2928/...9e27ddd7_b.jpg Special acoustic design for music and singing for the King. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/...6c1a3375_b.jpg Next stop was the an Armenian Cathedral in the southern part of Isfahan. Beautiful paintings of the story of Christ, and quite a contrast to those in the mosques, where literal illustrations are forbidden. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/...34ab6cc6_b.jpg We then walked around to the Vank Armenian Cathedral. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5038/...b7a01f5d_b.jpg Again, very beautiful artwork and architecture. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2937/...30c1527b_b.jpg After a busy morning sightseeing, we stopped off at an Armenian cafe for a break. Ice cream and cappuccino for less than $4:). https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2930/...c68c9f06_b.jpg We then went to a park where the locals were relaxing on the day off and having picnic's etc. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7413/...7a65fc6e_b.jpg Chess. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7400/...088b4b36_b.jpg For lunch we grabbed some Isfahan beriyani, a bread and lamb dish. The place was very popular with a queue down the road:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7411/...1dd67109_b.jpg After lunch we went to Chehel Sotoun Palace, built in the 14th century by Shah Abbas II. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2928/...00a9b130_b.jpg The central mural depicts the Battle of Chaldiran, where the Persians, with only swords & arrows, were routed by the Ottomans with guns and cannons in 1514. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7316/...88bfee8a_b.jpg We then went for afternoon tea at the 300 year old Abbasi Hotel, relaxing in the shade and resting the legs:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7419/...b8174c0a_b.jpg After a bit of a break, we went for a walk around the Isfahan Grand Bazaar. A lady wearing a chador centre, and a manteau on the right. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7412/...d31ff9ee_b.jpg Rusari. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7184/...5839c675_b.jpg Great place to just walk around and window shop:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7410/...83a3a7dc_b.jpg Silhouette. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7195/...9554cb64_b.jpg A small hand-painted copper vase I bought as a souvenir. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7185/...f44f20cc_b.jpg Fesenjān & rice for dinner. A traditional persian dish made with pomegranate syrup, ground walnuts and chicken. Very tasty:)! https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7450/...98488848_b.jpg After dinner we went to the Siose Bridge again to see it all lit up. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5459/...074b034b_b.jpg And back to the hotel at 10:30pm after a great day in Isfahan:). https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5577/...2b26efb2_b.jpg |
Day 4.
After going for a run through the tree lined streets of Isfahan, we headed down to the square again to check out the Imam Mosque, since it was closed the day before. Outside there was a concert underway, with lots of school kids:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7319/...deb6e31d_b.jpg The mosque was undergoing refurbishment and was covered in scaffolding. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7369/...4b23d0e9_b.jpg Inside they had built a big mould with which to organise and layout the newly refurbished coloured tiles which will go on top of the dome. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7454/...f342b0d7_b.jpg Stonecutters cutting the intricate shapes of the individual tile patterns. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5233/...9b15f9ca_b.jpg Stopping to get some Gaz, a candy from Isfahan made from nougat and pistachio nuts. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5035/...0296b87a_b.jpg Back in the Peugeot again for the journey north. The terrain wasn't quite desert, with some green scrub and rocky mountains. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5033/...9af440df_b.jpg On the road to the mountain village of Abyaneh. On the side of the road we saw a few anti-aircraft batteries, as we were getting close to the Natanz Underground Uranium Enrichment Facility. Unfortunately I wasn't foolish enough to take photo's of the facility as we drove past the entrance:). https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7206/...01db6409_b.jpg All the buildings in the Abyaneh were a rusty, red colour. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5277/...e335444e_b.jpg Abyunaki woman typically wear a white long scarf (left) and baggy pants for the men (right). https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5350/...b8956985_b.jpg Some sub-terrean homes. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7042/...e2cef2aa_b.jpg We then drove on to Kashan, a city of ~300,000, and stopped for lunch. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7361/...fbb1406a_b.jpg Bagh-e Fin in Kashan, where Amir Kabir, "Iran's first reformer", was killed on order of the King. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7318/...2a749668_b.jpg Tabātabāei House, built in the 1880's. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7458/...033b8ce4_b.jpg With beautiful stained glass windows. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5480/...af80cfb6_b.jpg Agha Bozorg Mosque. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7321/...5e3f032f_b.jpg We then headed north again, stopping off at a rest stop about 100k's south of Tehran. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5543/...c802b357_b.jpg At the toll gate about to head into Tehran. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7395/...474c5987_b.jpg The tomb of Imam Khomeini, leader of the 1979 Iranian Revolution in southern Tehran. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2899/...8178dca1_b.jpg At the Ferdowsi Grand Hotel, our final stop for the day in central Tehran. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7308/...1fdddcdf_b.jpg |
Day 5.
At the Grand Bazaar, Tehran on Sunday morning. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2932/...aeaf0274_b.jpg The Bazaar was massive, with ~10k's of alleys to get lost in:)! https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5453/...c065a531_b.jpg Emamzadeh Zeid in the Old Bazaar, where the tomb of Lotf Ali Khan is, the last Shah of the Zand dynasty. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2909/...887abfb6_b.jpg Money changers at the bazaar negotiating the days rate. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2934/...bfc270b4_b.jpg Shahr Park in Central Tehran. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7378/...d21ac4e7_b.jpg We then visited the national museum. A school group also about to visit. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/...3ac56ba4_b.jpg A statue of Darius the Great, the third king of the Persian Achaemenid Empire. The statues were scattered across his empire of what is now present day Libya, Iraq, Egypt, Iran, Pakistan, Turkey & Greece. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5182/...2dc2a9c7_b.jpg At the Glass & Ceramic Museum. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5195/...977a7553_b.jpg More students:). https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5503/...9b009e1b_b.jpg The museum was initially a private residence built in the 1800's, then the Egyptian embassy, and later converted into a museum in 1976. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7432/...f1b748e7_b.jpg We then headed for a ride on the Tehran metro. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2912/...249b9906_b.jpg Very modern, clean, and busy:). https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2905/...6c2824d6_b.jpg We got off at Teleghani station to visit the old US embassy. Numerous murals were painted on the brick walls of the embassy. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2905/...339a9182_b.jpg Embassy of the United States Of America. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2915/...b6954907_b.jpg It was taken over shortly after the Iran revolution. 53 hostages were held for 444 days during the Iran Hostage Crisis (As seen in the movie 'Argo'). The wreckage on top is from one of the helicopters that crashed during the failed Delta force rescue mission. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5194/...eb0941f2_b.jpg Liberty. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7434/...51d64fbd_b.jpg A mural of Imam Khomeini on the embassy walls, with the Iranian flag in the background, https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5576/...91316cd7_b.jpg After lunch we headed to the Central Bank to see the Iranian crown jewels. Lots of grape and walnut sized gems surrounded by oodles of gold from the various royal dynasties, very beautiful:)! Unfortunately no photo's allowed though:(. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2938/...60eb9eee_b.jpg Bookshop. I had a few hours to kill before my flight home in the evening so went for a walk through the city. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5325/...a96ac607_b.jpg 20,000 rials (~60 cents) for fresh carrot juice:). https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2915/...b2e59224_b.jpg Traffic. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7346/...e96e3409_b.jpg I had a few rials left so bought some more candy for my colleagues back in Dubai. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5467/...1a74a745_b.jpg At IKA for the Emirates flight back home after a memorable five days in Iran:). https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2938/...854b3616_b.jpg |
Great pics! Looks like you had a great trip. ^
Stayed at the same Niayesh Hotel 3 years ago. |
Fascinating TR, great photos. Cool to see something so far off the beaten path.
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Fascinating trip!!! Was looking at going to Iran back in 2007 when BMI flew there from London but it never materialized. Gutted really as it looks such an amazing place to visit. Food also looks great!!!!
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Absolutely stunning. If I wouldn't be killed for being a gay Jew, would go there in a heartbeat... alas!
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Originally Posted by rankourabu
(Post 22797766)
Great pics! Looks like you had a great trip. ^
Stayed at the same Niayesh Hotel 3 years ago.
Originally Posted by Eric Westby
(Post 22797845)
Fascinating TR, great photos. Cool to see something so far off the beaten path.
Originally Posted by SgtRyan
(Post 22797904)
Fascinating trip!!! Was looking at going to Iran back in 2007 when BMI flew there from London but it never materialized. Gutted really as it looks such an amazing place to visit. Food also looks great!!!!
Originally Posted by durberville
(Post 22797943)
Absolutely stunning. If I wouldn't be killed for being a gay Jew, would go there in a heartbeat... alas!
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Fantastic TR! I really like how your TRs are really about the destination and you do such a great job capturing the local culture on film.
What setup were you shooting with? Your EXIF data is rather silent. :D |
I love this report, the pictures are superb and the descriptions great! The idea of the links to Wikipedia is genial in my opinion. I'm doing a study on Iran and the revolution at the moment and I'm going to go there after I finishes and things get quieter for me.
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Thanks for the report! Looks like life is good in Iran, I haven't seen a negative report so far. The embargoes seem to have little effect?
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