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The South American Altiplano March 2013 - Amaszonas Airlines 300 Economy Class (LPB → UYU) - continued

I was fully expecting a long roll down the runway due to the thin air, but as we accelerated faster and faster and still achieved no lift, I admit there was a second or two where I became slightly worried. This was by far the longest takeoff I'd ever experienced, and I was certainly glad that the runway extended to an astonishing 13,123 feet. As we finally lifted off, the vast expanse of El Alto came into view, and it was a beautiful sight.


Taxiing to the runway


El Alto

It didn't take long for us to reach cruising altitude, and the flight attendants immediately went to work with the beverage service. A variety of juices and soft drinks were available. I decided to go with the interesting pear juice. No other snacks were provided onboard, even for purchase. While heading south, some stunning cloud formations appeared outside, set against a blazing sun.


Pear juice





As we began our descent, we actually flew above Salar de Uyuni, which was pure white as far as the eye could see. If fact, it was almost difficult to distinguish between the clouds and the salt flat. Taking in the surreal landscape from the air gave us a taste of the scenery to come in the next few days. Just before landing, we caught a glimpse of the town of Uyuni. "Dusty" is how I would probably describe it, and it turns out I wasn't too far off.


Salar de Uyuni


Uyuni

This was probably the most desolate airport I'd ever been to. Exiting the aircraft, all I could see in every direction was barren terrain. There was not a single tree in sight, and no vegetation I could discern whatsoever. Even before 8:00 am, the sun was beating down hard, and we quickly ducked into the terminal building for some refuge.


Uyuni Airport







Once inside, we found our driver from Red Planet Expeditions. However, unloading the checked baggage from the plane took longer than expected, so we sat and waited in the combined arrivals/departures hall. The airport terminal actually looked very modern, and was probably built only a few years ago. Several officers in uniform guarded the building, perhaps an indication of the large military base nearby.

After collecting our backpacks, we followed our driver out to the dirt parking lot and loaded our belongings into the trunk. The ride into town took less than five minutes, so we were a little shocked when he asked for ten Bolivianos per person, instead of the ten Bolivianos total that I thought we had agreed upon with Red Planet prior to arriving. I couldn't help but think that this was a minor bait-and-switch scam on the part of the company and the driver, but we didn't want to start the tour off on a sour note, so we didn't bother arguing with them. Just be sure to confirm the total price of the airport transfer for your entire group.


Arrivals/departures hall




Amaszonas check-in counters





Unless you're on a tight budget or simply crave the hardcore backpacking experience, do yourself a favor; skip the overnight bus and book a direct flight with Amaszonas. It will save you a ton of time and probably some body aches along the way.

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The South American Altiplano - Salar De Uyuni And The Bolivian Altiplano

Choosing a Salar de Uyuni tour company online is an unpleasantly arduous task at best. Information is outdated, reviews are questionable, and outfitters seem to pop out of nowhere and disappear overnight. There are only a handful of reputable operators that have become somewhat well-known among tourists, but even they have their detractors.

One of the most dangerous aspects of any Salar de Uyuni tour is the fact that there are no paved roads along the three-day journey. You must travel in a 4x4 on paths carved out by other vehicles in the barren landscape of the Altiplano. Getting lost is a real possibility if your guides are not experienced enough. During our tour, we actually had other companies' drivers stop to ask for directions. And on numerous occasions, they would simply follow our lead.

The quality and maintenance of the 4x4s are just as important, as the rugged trails and salt can wreak havoc on them. Breakdowns are the last thing you want on a tour like this. Older Toyota Land Cruisers and their Lexus equivalents seem to be the vehicles of choice here, and at least in our case, they mostly stood up to the punishing terrain without any issues. On the last day, one of our tires developed a slow leak, but our guide was able to fix it with a temporary patch.

Most disturbingly, the safety and livelihood of passengers are completely in the hands of drivers who may have a high probability of being drunk. Do a quick search on tour reviews and you will find hundreds of horror stories about guides and drivers who were too inebriated to even walk. Deadly accidents were a common occurrence not too long ago, but those numbers seem to be declining slightly as higher safety standards are adopted.

Beyond the obvious concerns associated with driving a 4x4 into the middle of nowhere for three days, the question of cost can also be incredibly confusing. From my own research, I found that different companies can charge anywhere from 700 to 1300 Bolivianos ($100-$190 USD). Of course, you often do get what you pay for, and there may be significant differences in terms of quality of the tour guides, vehicles, food, and accommodations.

Ultimately, we decided to book with Red Planet Expeditions, probably the most established of all the Salar de Uyuni tour operators. At 1200 Bolivianos per person, they were on the high end of the cost spectrum, but owing to the slightly more favorable reviews and strong emphasis on safety, we agreed that it was worth the extra money.

After being dropped off at the tour office in Uyuni, we went about settling the payment first with the none too friendly secretary. Despite confirming prior to arrival that they accepted credit cards, we were told that they had hit their "monthly limit", and would only be accepting cash now (Bolivianos or dollars). Frustrating to say the least, and we were forced to retrieve additional money from the local ATM. After returning to the office, she then refused to accept a $100 dollar bill because of a tiny tear that could barely be seen by the naked eye. After my friend became angry and threatened to walk out, she suddenly decided the bill was fine.

Not a great way to start off the trip, but thankfully, the other people we met in the office all seemed very cool. With tours departing around 10:00-11:00 am, we had some time to grab supplies along the main street in town. Despite the fact that meals are provided, it is still important to bring extra water and snacks. Back at the office, we were introduced to our tour guide for the next three days... who turned out to be simply amazing.


Avenida Arce in Uyuni

Gonzoles was his name, and he was actually an American of Bolivian descent who spoke perfect English and Spanish. He was informative, hilarious, and most importantly, genuine in his desire to provide a good tour for all 11 of us. I'll go into more detail later on, but needless to say, I think we were all very thankful we had him as our guide. After getting our two Land Cruisers loaded up with supplies, we were soon on our way. From here, I'll break this trip report down into the three separate days we spent in the Bolivian Altiplano.


Our two Land Cruisers

Day 1:
The first stop was the train graveyard just outside of town. This interesting depot of rusted locomotives has turned into a playground of sorts for tourists, and in some ways, looks almost like a modern art exhibit. You can climb anywhere you want, snap funny photos jumping on top of the trains, or just walk around, taking in the somewhat ironic image of these once magnificent man-made machinery slowly dissolving into the desolate environment.


Train graveyard





Afterwards, we drove to the tiny town of Colchani, a salt-mining community on the outskirts of Salar de Uyuni. There, we were given an informative tour covering the salt refining process. You can also browse a number of souvenir stalls outside, and visit a small museum with some interesting sculptures made of salt. We then gathered for our first group lunch together, which was surprisingly filling and delicious. There were plenty of llama steaks, quinoa, and fresh vegetables to go around.


Town of Colchani

Next up was the long-awaited Salar de Uyuni. As we left the dirt road behind and rolled onto the pure white surface, I could feel the salt crystals crunching underneath the tires. After we stopped, Gonzoles gave us a brief introduction to the area, and then allowed us to wander around independently. Even with all the pictures I'd seen and stories I'd read, I don't think anything could have properly prepared me for the overwhelming sensory overload of standing in this vast expanse of nothingness.


Salar de Uyuni





Of course, the main thing to do at Salar de Uyuni is to take crazy pictures, utilizing the blank canvas as the perfect optical illusion for depth and scale. I'd seen some incredibly ingenious examples online, and we went about recreating a few of them, as well as coming up with some of our own. For the next hour or so, we jumped, contorted, and got dirty in the salt trying to take as many pictures as we could. Don't forget to bring along some props to make your photos even more interesting!















The weather was absolutely perfect, with stunning blue skies and sweeping high clouds complimenting the white plain. The light can be especially blinding in this environment though, so sunglasses are essential. It is also quite easy to get burned under the high altitude sun if you haven't applied sunscreen. In some areas, natural hexagons have developed during the evaporation process, which makes for a somewhat unusual landscape.


Hexagons in the salt

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The South American Altiplano - Salar De Uyuni And The Bolivian Altiplano - continued

What I really wanted to see, however, was the mirror-like effect when the salt flat is covered by a thin layer of water. It is tough to see this phenomenon after March, when the dry season kicks in and most of the precipitation has stopped. Luckily, Gonzoles knew of an area that still had quite a bit of water left, and we took a long drive across Salar de Uyuni to get there.

It was an extraordinary sight to see this virtual lake on the salt flat, and it was shallow enough for us to wade far into the distance. Sadly though, the conditions just weren't right to see the mirror effect. The winds had picked up significantly, creating ripples over the water and eliminating any possibility of seeing a reflection. And even if the winds died down, there would have been nothing to reflect because there was hardly a cloud in the sky.

Dramatic clouds on a completely still day, coupled with low lighting during sunrise or sunset hours would make for the perfect combination of variables to see the mirror effect over Salar de Uyuni. I was extremely disappointed that we didn't get to see that beautiful sight, but hopefully one day I'll be able to go back during the wet season and catch a lucky break with the weather!


Salar de Uyuni covered with water







In the late afternoon, we departed the salt flat and drove a few miles to our first night's accommodation. In recent years, a number of these primitive lodgings have been built around Salar de Uyuni catering to tour groups. Virtually everything inside is constructed from salt, including the bricks making up the walls, tables, chairs, and even the beds.

There was one large dining/common area and a number of shared rooms down a hallway. I would say conditions resembled a very basic hostel. We were lucky to be assigned a room with just three beds, so in essence, we had our own private triple. There was a men's and women's bathroom, each with a shower, which was certainly a luxury out on the Altiplano. Amazingly, the water seemed to stay warm throughout the evening.


First night's accomodation


Dining/common area

We shared the accommodation with two other tour groups, and there were probably a total of 30 people there that night. Each company provided food for their own guests, which was cooked in a kitchen out back. Again, I was really impressed with the quality and amount of food provided by Red Planet. After dinner, we stayed up to chat with Gonzoles about why he decided to move to Bolivia and how he became a tour guide.

Amazingly, electricity was provided for about two hours during dinner, and it was rather funny to see the hoards of people trying to charge their iPhones, tablets, and even laptops on the few outlets available. Just a reminder of how tethered we are to technology these days I suppose. Everyone was fairly exhausted after a long day, and we all retired into our rooms early. Surprisingly, the beds were quite comfortable, and the thick sheets provided enough warmth when the temperatures dropped overnight.


Our room


Sunset outside our lodging

Day 2:
The next morning, we left the lodge around 7:00 am and proceeded south along the Bolivian/Chilean border. Our first stop was the tiny town of Chiguana, a station on the railway connecting Uyuni to Antofagasta in Chile. There is a smaller salt flat named Salar de Chiguana nearby as well.

One of the most interesting things I learned while traveling through the Bolivian Altiplano is that multiple types of quinoa are grown throughout the region. And given the overwhelming worldwide interest in this superfood recently, it has become an important cash crop for local farmers and the country as a whole. However, with the massive increase in demand and subsequent jump in prices, there have been some concern that harvests being sold to foreign markets are no longer feeding the local population, who depend on the high protein levels in quinoa as sustenance.


Vicuńa


Six different types of Quinoa grown in the Altiplano


Salar de Chiguana


Fun with railroads

Our next stop was a viewpoint overlooking the massive Ollagüe Volcano at 19,242 feet. Still active, it was possible to see a constant puff of smoke emanating from one of its cinder cones. There were also a number of interesting rock formations in the area that people could climb. One of the few plants that can grow at such high altitudes is the llareta, a tiny moss-like covering that typically takes hold on large rocks and boulders. With such harsh environmental conditions, the llareta can only grow up to 1.5 centimeters a year, so many of the larger examples we saw were thousands of years old.


Ollagüe Volcano smoldering


Rock formations


Thousand-year old llareta

Further south, we reached several lakes all filled with hundreds of flamingos. Unbeknownst to me, the high Andes are home to three species of flamingos that feed on algae growing inside the mineral-rich waters. At Laguna Cańapa, we stopped to admire the birds and wonderful views while resting for a lunch break. The menu included roasted chicken, pasta, and vegetables.


Vehicle trails in the Altiplano


Laguna Cańapa and flamingos




Lunch break at the lake

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The South American Altiplano - Salar De Uyuni And The Bolivian Altiplano - continued





Afterwards, we continued on to Laguana Hedionda, which literally means smelly lake. Indeed, the combination of flamingo droppings and algae made for an unholy mix of odors. The benefit was that you could get up close and personal with the flamingos here, as they seemed to be somewhat more comfortable with human presence. With the proper camera zoom, you can get some spectacular shots of these majestic birds.


Hmmm...


Flamingo in flight



For the next hour or so, we flew through the barren landscape, climbing higher and higher until we crested at over 16,000 feet. I was still taking my altitude sickness pills and drinking plenty of coca tea, but for the most part, I felt like I had completely acclimatized. At least I no longer had pounding headaches or nausea, although steep hikes were definitely still a challenge.

Just when I thought the terrain couldn't get any more outlandish, I was reminded of why the Bolivian Altiplano is often called the weirdest place on earth. Outside, it looked like we were on the martian surface. No plants can survive here, not even the hardy llareta. At our next stop, we saw some rock formations that had been carved out by strong winds over thousands of years. The most famous of all, the Árbol de Piedra, or Stone Tree, looked like something straight out of a surrealist painter's dream.


Martian landscape


Árbol de Piedra



Continuing south, we finally reached Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve. We were reminded by Red Planet Expeditions even before starting the tour that a separate park fee of 150 Bolivianos needed to be paid here. This is standard practice among all tour operators. The first sight past the entrance was the famous Laguna Colorada, a lake whose color is a stunning deep red, owing to the pigmentation of the algae living inside its waters.


Laguna Colorada

The day before, Gonzoles had told us that there would be a slight change to our itinerary. Typically, after viewing Laguna Colorada, the tour would conclude for the day and we would stay at a lodging close by. The next morning, we would have to leave by 5:00 am to see the geysers and boiling mud pots at Sol de Mańana, then drive about half an hour to the natural hot spring at Laguna Polques for a morning dip.

Instead, what he proposed was that we visit Sol de Mańana in the late afternoon after Laguna Colorada, then continue on our way to Laguna Polques, where we would stay right next to the hot spring at a brand new lodging that wasn't even complete yet. The two benefits would be that we would be the only group staying at the new accommodations, and more importantly, we would have the hot spring all to ourselves for the entire night.


Sol de Mańana


Boiling mud pots




Arriving at Laguna Polques in the early evening

Being the cynical pessimist, I wondered if Red Planet Expeditions was trying to save money in some way, or if they had somehow screwed up our booking at the regular lodges. Thankfully, everyone went along with the new plan because it turned out to be one of the best experiences of the entire trip. Instead of a crowded night sharing the rooms with multiple tour groups, the 11 of us had a fantastic evening at the brand new lodging bonding over delicious lasagna and wine. The sheets were super clean and the owners were incredibly nice.

After dinner, five of us braved the freezing cold temperatures outside and ran down to the hot springs, where we soaked in the warm waters for a good hour under the full moon. The views overlooking Laguna Polques, with the steaming streams of overflowing hot water winding its way down to the lake, were simply breathtaking. Never in my life would I have ever imagined myself bathing in a hot spring at 14,400 feet in the middle of the Bolivian Altiplano, overlooking some of the most extraordinary landscape on earth. This was one of those moments that I think will be imprinted in my mind forever.


Brand new lodging


Unpacking


Laguna Polques at sunset


Lasagna and wine for dinner

The only downside to the new accommodations was that the bathrooms had not yet been completed. Of course, that meant no showers and no toilets. The solution? Head out into the nearby hills. Number one is easy, but if you need to do some heavy unloading, find a large rock and start digging a shallow hole for yourself. It may not be pretty, but it certainly gets the job done! Just remember to cover the hole back up with dirt after you finish to prevent contamination and the spread of disease.


Dining/common area


Shared bedroom

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The South American Altiplano - Salar De Uyuni And The Bolivian Altiplano - continued

Day 3:
Since we didn't need to rush like other tour groups to get to Laguna Polques the next morning, we could sleep in a little and leave by 7:00 am again. Stepping outside, we were greeted by a long row of vehicles all having dropped off their passengers at the hot spring. At that moment, I was incredibly grateful we had this location all to ourselves the night before. The pool was absolutely brimming with tourists at this hour.


Lots of people in the morning




Laguna Polques in the morning


Crowded hot spring


Vicuńa skull

We left the crowds behind and proceeded on our way south towards the border of Chile. While most people opt to return to Uyuni after the three-day tour, you can also choose to be dropped off at the border, where a shared minibus will take passengers on to San Pedro de Atacama. The cost of the transfer ticket, typically around 50 Bolivianos, was included when booking with Red Planet Expeditions. We decided on this route since our itinerary continued through Northern Chile.

The last few sights on the third day included the strangely beautiful Salvador Dalí Desert, with its peculiar rock formations and painted mountains. The scenery really looked like it came out of Dalí's artwork. At Laguna Verde, the Lincancabur Volcano formed an imposing backdrop, standing at nearly 19,300 feet tall.


Salvador Dalí Desert






Laguna Verde and the Licancabur Volcano

Finally, we arrived at the Chilean border crossing, which consisted of a tiny building for immigration processing and a lift gate. One important tip is that you can actually get stamped out of Bolivia at the immigration office in Uyuni, which will save you time here at the border. There was already a long line of people waiting at the office when we walked in. Luckily, those of us who completed the process in Uyuni could simply show our passports and continue on our way.


Immigration office at the border



After saying our goodbyes to the tour group, we grabbed our belongings and boarded the waiting Chilean minibus. Of course, we also made sure to give Gonzoles and our driver a nice tip for being such awesome guides.

Just past the border, we began an incredibly rapid descent from 15,000 feet all the way down to 7,900 feet in the valley where San Pedro de Atacama sits. It almost felt like being in an airplane preparing for landing. Ears were constantly popping and immediately, I could sense the increase in atmospheric pressure and warmer temperatures. Sitting on the right side of the vehicle, we were also treated to some remarkable views of Lincancabur Volcano.

One interesting note on the stark difference between Bolivia and Chile. Perhaps just a mile in from the border, we turned onto a brand new paved highway, and for the rest of way into town, the roads were in absolutely perfect condition. Compare that to the three days of bumpy dirt trails we drove on through Southern Bolivia, and it's easy to see how Chile, one of the wealthiest nations in South America, contrasts with Bolivia, the poorest on the continent.


Minibus to San Pedro de Atacama


Hello Chile!

Once we arrived in San Pedro de Atacama, the first stop was the Chilean immigration office, where all of our belongings needed to go through a rigorous security check. The empty minibus was then searched by border officers for illegal contrabands. Apparently, even Bolivian coca leaves are prohibited from entering the country. After getting stamped in, we hopped back onto the minibus and continued a few blocks to the bus station. From there, it was just a quick five-minute walk to the main square.


Immigration office in San Pedro de Atacama

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The South American Altiplano - Exploring San Pedro De Atacama

San Pedro de Atacama is one of the most popular destinations to visit in Chile for international and domestic tourists alike. Located in the far north of the country and sitting in the midst of a green oasis along the edge of the South American Altiplano, it is the perfect jump-off point for touring the incredible landscape of the Atacama Desert.


Streets of San Pedro de Atacama




Main square

The first thing we did after arriving in San Pedro de Atacama was to locate our lodging at Hotel Dunas. The town is quite small, and easily walkable to virtually all points of interest. It is also very bike-friendly, and you can find bike rentals around just about every block. Hotel Dunas is a five to ten-minute walk from the center of town, located on a quiet and safe street.


Hotel Dunas


Reception

After traveling through Peru and Bolivia, you may experience sticker shock initially with hotel and food prices in Chile. At around $110 USD for a rather basic room (including a discount if you pay in cash), Hotel Dunas isn't cheap by any means, but the price is fairly comparable to most tourist spots in developed countries around the world. We had booked a triple with a private bathroom, and everything looked perfect when we arrived.

Our room actually had four beds, one full and three twins. There was a small dining table and a full bathroom with all the essentials. Coming from our three-day Salar de Uyuni tour, it was nice to finally have a hot shower with decent water pressure! There was also a very large walk-in closet, although we didn't make use of it at all.





Breakfast was included every day, but portions were very small. Each guest received one piece of bread, some scrambled eggs, and a slice of cheese. Butter and jam were provided, along with a glass of juice and a thermos of hot water. Not terrible for a complimentary meal, but definitely not enough to sustain me through lunch.


Complimentary breakfast

After getting settled in, our first order of business was to book tours for the next two days. There are many things to see and do around San Pedro de Atacama, but with limited time, we wanted to hit up the most important attractions, including Valle de la Luna and the geysers of El Tatio. For those who are a little more adventurous, there are also plenty of sandboarding, hiking, and climbing excursions to choose from. With the entire town inundated with tour companies, it wasn't difficult to reserve our spots. However, prices do vary slightly from agency to agency, so it may be worth your time to shop around.

After visiting a couple of different locations, we ended up paying 7,000 CLP per person for the Valle de la Luna tour, and 17,000 CLP per person for the El Tatio tour. Note that entrance fees to the parks are typically not included. In this case, an extra 2,000 CLP is required for Valle de la Luna, and 5,000 CLP is required for El Tatio.

Since Valle de la Luna is only about eight kilometers away from town, it is also possible to bike there independently. However, be aware that the altitude and daytime heat make it a difficult journey even for those who are rather fit. Tour buses will sometimes pick up stranded bikers, and we saw a few who definitely overestimated their own stamina.

Almost all Valle de la Luna tours start in the afternoon and include sunset viewing from the Cari Viewpoint. Different tours may visit different locations, but most will at least stop at the Salt Canyon, Salt Caves, Valle de la Muerte, and Tres Marias. I wasn't a huge fan of our tour guide, since he spent an unreasonable amount of time talking and going off on tangents that had nothing to do with what we were seeing. In the end, we had to rush through several stops simply because he had wasted so much time in the beginning. Thankfully, we were at least able to see the beautiful sunset.


Valle de la Luna


Sand dunes


Tres Marias




Sunset


Piedra del Coyote


Sunset against the Lincancabur Volcano

The El Tatio tour, on the other hand, typically departs around 4:00 am. Since the location is approximately 100 kilometers away in the high plains, it is essential to start early. El Tatio features some of the highest-altitude geysers in the world, and the geothermal field itself is the third largest in the world. While I found it to be nowhere near as spectacular as Yellowstone, I think just being there at sunrise made for an unparalleled experience. The lighting, coupled with the landscape of steam rising from the earth, was truly breathtaking.


El Tatio at sunrise




El Tatio geothermal field

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The South American Altiplano - Exploring San Pedro De Atacama - continued

Being at 14,000 feet before sunrise can be excruciatingly cold, so be sure to wear plenty of layers. If you are prone to altitude sickness, it may also be wise to take some coca leaves or acetazolamide before departing. After taking in the sunrise and walking through the geyser field, the tour continued at another location a short distance away. There, we bathed in a natural hot spring and saw some more fumaroles and geysers. Along the way, there were plenty of wild vicuńas roaming the desolate land all around us.


Hot spring




Vicuńa

The tour then proceeded to the Putana River, where we saw a variety of native bird species. If you're lucky, you may even see the elusive viscacha, a furry creature closely resembling a rabbit and a chinchilla. Finally, before heading back to San Pedro de Atacama, we visited the tiny village of Machuca for a brief rest stop. There, you can climb up to the small adobe church or grab an empanada from one of the local vendors.


Machuca village




Crazy llama

We arrived back in San Pedro de Atacama in the early afternoon, which gave us plenty of time to explore the town some more. A wonderful way to spend a few hours during the day is at the R. P. Gustavo Le Paige Archaeological Museum near the center of town. It houses an extensive catalog of local relics and artifacts from pre-Columbian history all the way to more recent times. Be sure to also visit the Iglesia San Pedro de Atacama, possibly the second oldest church in Chile. First constructed in the 17th century, it has gone through several renovations, but has maintained its simple adobe structure and traditional roof construction.


R. P. Gustavo Le Paige Archaeological Museum


Ultraviolet ray indicator




Iglesia San Pedro de Atacama




Market

While there are plenty of good eats all around town, expect prices to reflect the typical tourism inflation. One standout that I have to recommend, however, is the aptly named Las Delicias de Carmen. Be sure to try out the hearty cazuela stew and barbequed pork belly. There is usually a decent wait for a table during peak hours, so get there early!






Delicious cazuela

San Pedro de Atacama is easily one of the top three tourist destinations in Chile, along with Easter Island and Torres del Paine. Its desolate location belies the striking landscape and plethora of exciting activities in the region. I would highly recommend stopping here for at least a few days if you are visiting the Altiplano.

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The South American Altiplano - Bus To Putre Via Arica

To be honest, I was a little nervous about this part of my journey through South America. I had been traveling with my two friends the entire way up until now, but our paths were to diverge here in San Pedro de Atacama. My plan was to head up to the northern tip of Chile to see Lauca National Park, near the small town of Putre, while my friends' itinerary took them further south to the Lake District and Puerto Montt.

Since there were no regular flights available between any of these Northern Chilean cities, my only option was to make the nearly 520-mile journey by bus. In San Pedro de Atacama, both Tur Bus and Pullman had offices where we could purchase tickets. Only Tur Bus, however, offered an overnight direct route to Arica. As with all things in Chile, prices weren't cheap. I ended up splurging a little and booked a first class seat for the 10-hour bus ride, thinking I would be able to get better sleep that way.


Bus route from San Pedro de Atacama to Putre via Arica

I later regretted that decision when I realized that there really wasn't a significant difference between the first class and regular coach seats. Both were simple recliners, with the upgraded version slightly wider and more cushioned. I found the first class cabin, located on the lower level, to be small and claustrophobic, and would have much preferred to sit in the larger coach cabin upstairs. Sadly, the ticket cost me 26,000 CLP, which was quite a bit more expensive than the 18,000 CLP for a regular seat. Live and learn I guess.

The departure point for Tur Bus in San Pedro de Atacama is not at the main bus station, but rather around the corner from their office in a large parking lot. I walked there from the hotel and arrived approximately 20 minutes before departure. After confirming my tickets and loading my large backpack, I stepped on board and took my seat in the first row.


Tur Bus to Arica



First class was almost completely full, which made an already small cabin feel even tighter. And unfortunately, the bulkhead seat made it impossible for me to stretch out, despite a decent pitch. I was exhausted though, having woken up before 4:00 am that morning, so I reclined my seat and quickly fell asleep. About an hour and a half later, we made a scheduled stop in the city of Calama, where some passengers disembarked and others got on.


First class seat




Bulkhead legroom

There was an attendant on the bus the entire way, and he would periodically check in on our cabin to make sure everything was okay. Shortly after boarding, he came around and handed out a snack pack to first class passengers. I was too tired and not very hungry, so I saved the contents for later.


First class snack pack

From Calama, it was a straight shot to Arica, and I ended up sleeping for most of the way there. It definitely wasn't very deep sleep though, because I remember waking up probably every half an hour. Finally, we arrived at the domestic bus terminal in Arica at around 6:15 am. It was still pitch black outside and I wasn't feeling terribly good, but there was no time to waste.

Having done all of my research beforehand, I knew that the bus from Arica to Putre was operated by a private company called La Paloma and departed at 7:00 am every day. However, it did not leave from the main station as expected. Instead, they operated out of their office in a quiet neighborhood several miles away. Thus, the challenge was to find a taxi to take me to the La Paloma office in time for the Putre departure.

While Arica is not a dangerous city, I was still weary of hailing a random taxi off the street by myself in total darkness. So I walked around the perimeter of the domestic bus terminal with all my belongings until I found a legitimate-looking radio taxi office across the street. I knocked on the window, and a portly woman came out to help me. I told her that I needed to get to La Paloma, and luckily, she knew exactly what I was talking about. Since it was so early in the morning, she had to radio one of the few working drivers, who arrived after a long wait.

The taxi ride there took about ten minutes, and I was relieved when we finally arrived and I was sure I wasn't going to miss the departure. I paid the 3,500 CLP fare in the office and then boarded the surprisingly well-maintained bus.


La Paloma bus to Putre

I was a little surprised at how empty the bus was when we departed, but I soon realized that we would be making more than half a dozen stops before even leaving the city of Arica. By the time we finally got on our way, virtually every seat was taken. I noticed that there were many young men in army fatigues on board as well, probably owing to the large military base near Putre.

There was not much to see in terms of scenery on the way up (Putre sits at 11,500 feet). From the moment we left Arica all the way until we reached the outskirts of Putre, I don't think I witnessed a single tree. The landscape is dry and desolate here, but strangely beautiful at the same time.


Landscape on the way to Putre

This is a route taken mostly by locals, so no announcements were ever made on the bus. As we approached what looked to me like Putre, I had to ask the passenger seated next to me if I should get off here. Luckily, the town is tiny, and there are pretty much only two stops. Even if you get off at the wrong one, walking from one end of the main road to the other only takes about 15 minutes. I believe the second stop is mainly for military personnel getting dropped off closer to the base.


Welcome to Putre


La Paloma bus

Feeling disoriented after almost 14 hours of bus rides, I was at a complete loss as to where my hotel was. I wandered around the eerily quiet town for a while, then poked my head inside a restaurant and asked the lady working there if she knew where Terrace Lodge was located. She was extremely helpful, and even walked me to the entrance of the property. Later in the day, I returned to the restaurant for lunch, and then again the following day for dinner.


Sign to Terrace Lodge


Terrace Lodge in sight

It was a very long journey to get from San Pedro de Atacama to Putre in one shot, and I was thankful I made it there without any issues. Overall, I would have to say that buses and roads in Chile are very well-maintained, and independent travelers should find it fairly easy to navigate as long as you know some basic Spanish. Just be sure to do your research beforehand, and be aware of the approximate departure and arrival times.

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The South American Altiplano - Exploring Lauca National Park And Putre

Although I had already booked my stay at the Terrace Lodge in Putre for two nights, I hadn't done any additional planning in terms of getting to and seeing Lauca National Park. I figured as long as I could get myself to Putre, it would be very straightforward to book a day trip with a local tour agency. Boy was I wrong.

First things first, I got settled in at the Terrace Lodge. This quaint little property on the edge of town is owned by a polyglot couple from Italy who are also extremely knowledgeable about the Chilean Altiplano. While slightly more expensive than the few other options in town, the quality here is quite high. There are only five rooms at the lodge, and mine was the last unit.


Terrace Lodge



The bedroom was nicely decorated and spotlessly clean. A small portable heater was included, but I still found it to be rather cold at night. Luckily, the thick duvets were sufficient for keeping in the warmth. The bathroom was modern and had plenty of hot water throughout the day. A standard hotel safe in the closet area was also much appreciated.









A complimentary continental breakfast was served between 8:00 and 9:00 am. While portions weren't huge, I really enjoyed the delicious bread and fruit pancake. They also served ham, cheese, cereal, juice, coffee, and tea. In the lobby/common area, there were two computers for guest use during open hours. Free WiFi was also available throughout the property, though I found the signal to be a bit weak in my room.


Complimentary continental breakfast

After checking in and unloading my belongings, I headed back into town to look for a day tour to Lauca National Park. Strangely enough, most of the streets and shops were completely deserted despite being the middle of the day. There were only two or three tour agencies scattered about town, and the ones that were even open told me that I was the only one inquiring about a tour, so I would basically have to front the entire cost, which is usually split among multiple people. The price I was quoted ranged from 60,000 to 90,000 CLP, which surprised me, even for Chile.


Putre and the Taapaca volcano


Deserted streets


One of the few tour agencies in town

I returned to the Terrace Lodge and asked the owner, Flavio, about the day tour that he runs, and he quoted me 65,000 CLP. Unfortunately, without any other travelers interested in joining me, I was stuck with paying these sky-high prices on my own. I decided to go with Flavio since his tour had good reviews online, and I knew exactly what I was getting. Ironically, if I had stayed in Arica instead, I probably could have found a day tour to Lauca National Park for around 25,000 CLP, albeit with a large group and a tight schedule.

Flavio's tour of Lauca National Park the next day was indeed excellent. He was extremely knowledgeable about the area, and knew exactly where and when to view specific locations for the best photographs and wildlife sightings. Hiring a personal guide definitely had its benefits, like being able to stay at one place a little longer if I wished, or doing some hikes that would not have been possible with a large tour group.

We started off the morning at the star attractions of Lauca National Park: the twin volcanoes of Pomerape and Parinacota towering majestically behind Lake Chungará. And what a sight they were to behold. The perfectly symmetrical Parinacota reflecting in the beautiful calm waters is perhaps the most iconic image of the Chilean Altiplano.


Parinacota volcano and Lake Chungará





Afterwards, we headed further west of Parinacota to see Lake Cotacotani, a unique body of water left behind after the last eruption some 7,000 years ago. The debris field is still clearly evident, with piles of convoluted volcanic rock forming islets, inlets, and lagoons in and around the lake. From here, we went off-roading for a bit in search of local birds and wildlife.


Lake Cotacotani


Debris field

We stopped in the tiny hamlet of Parinacota for lunch, and I saw a total of maybe four people there. Flavio had to specifically order food for us the day before, or else there would have been no one there to cook! The meal was a simple but hearty soup, along with some bread and herbal tea for the high altitude. There was a melancholy beauty to the desolation here, and I found myself feeling completely at ease with the serenity.


Herbal tea in Parinacota


Colonial church


Alpaca

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The South American Altiplano - Exploring Lauca National Park And Putre - continued

After a brief walk around town and a look at the famous colonial church, we continued on our way, off-roading to several locations, where we saw lakes filled with Andean flamingos, herds of vicuńas, and even a number of viscachas hiding among the crevices of a rocky cliff face. A short hike featured some truly stunning scenery of the wide open plains. Finally, he took me to a fascinating recreation of an ancient vicuńa hunting trap constructed by a local university anthropological department.


Ground-dwelling Andean Flicker


Andean Flamingos


Vicuńas


Viscacha




Off-roading


Reconstructed vicuńa trap

On the way back, we stopped at a lookout point high above town, where we had a panoramic view of Putre and the Taapaca volcano. We arrived back at the lodge around 4:00 pm, where I took a brief respite, and then headed into town to grab an early dinner. Overall, the tour was excellent, and Flavio was amazing with his encyclopedic knowledge of the terrain and native species. Would I recommend paying 65,000 CLP for a private tour? Probably not. But even with just one additional person, I'd say it would be highly worth it.


View of Putre and Taapaca volcano

I purchased my bus ticket back to Arica for the following day, also with La Paloma. The price was identical to the journey up at 3,500 CLP. Since the bus departs at 2:00 pm every day, I had plenty of time in the morning to relax, and explore Putre some more. The town seemed just as deserted as the day I arrived, with only a few people milling about in the main plaza. The requisite Catholic church stood just off to one side, next to the information office.


Still deserted


Main plaza


Catholic church




Herding cows

The La Paloma bus was once again virtually full when we departed Putre. I had a better opportunity to observe the scenery on the way down since I wasn't half-asleep, and I must say, I almost wished I had my eyes closed. We clung to the edge of some stunning slopes, winding our way down from the heights of the Altiplano all the way to sea level at Arica.


La Paloma bus




View on the way down

It was late afternoon when we arrived back at the La Paloma office. After a few days of peace and quiet in the Altiplano, I found myself rushing again at a frantic pace since I only had a few remaining hours of daylight left to explore Arica. I grabbed my belongings and headed towards my accommodation for the night at Hostal Jardín del Sol.

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The South American Altiplano - Exploring Arica

Hostal Jardín del Sol is located in a quiet neighborhood a few blocks away from central Arica. While they had shared dorm rooms just like typical hostels, I was also happy to see that they had private rooms available for an extremely reasonable price. After reading through the stellar reviews on TripAdvisor, I reserved my one-night stay using Booking.com for only 12,500 CLP, which was an absolute steal.

When I arrived at the hostel, I noticed the front door was locked. After ringing the bell, there was a buzz and the door automatically opened. I walked through two lounge areas before finally locating the reception off to one side of a narrow outdoor hallway.

The owners were there to greet me and give me a very descriptive rundown of the hostel and the town of Arica. I really appreciated all the information they provided on what to see during my short stay. In fact, they were probably some of the friendliest and most helpful people I came across during this entire trip. I would highly recommend Hostal Jardín del Sol based on that fact alone.


Hostal Jardín del Sol


Lounge #1


Lounge #2



One thing I immediately noticed was how clean and tidy everything was at the hostel. Even though my room wasn't terribly modern and obviously the furniture and fixtures weren't new, I appreciated their effort in keeping things spotless and in good working order.

On the downside, the room was definitely cramped, with a full bed taking up much of the space and the bathroom being a tight squeeze (the sink was actually inside the bedroom). But frankly, for what I was paying, this was a whole lot more than I was expecting. Heck, there was even a small flat-screen TV on the wall with a dozen or so channels for my viewing pleasure.


Private room


Bathroom and TV


Shower

Like most lodges and hostels in South America, breakfast was included. The portions were small, however, and the variety rather limited. I was served a breakfast sandwich of sorts with ham and cheese, along with a small bowl of cereal, yogurt, juice, and tea. While definitely not filling, it was at least enough to get me through the morning. Next to the dining area was a small room with three computers and complimentary internet for guest use. There was also free WiFi throughout the property.


Dining area


Breakfast


Computers and free internet

I didn't spend too much time at the hostel though, since I only had a couple of hours before sunset to explore the area. Walking the few blocks towards the center of town, I instantly got a very pleasant vibe. Maybe it was the beautiful mild weather or perhaps the relaxed demeanor of the locals. After some thought, I decided that Arica felt like a strange mix between a rugged industrial city and a laid-back hippie beach town. I know it makes absolutely no sense, but that's exactly how I would describe it.

The first thing that everyone said I had to do was climb El Morro, a huge hill at the southern end of town that affords some spectacular views of the entire region. Walking up Calle Colón towards the entrance of the footpath, I noticed some splendid colonial-style buildings painted in a multitude of bright colors.


Welcome to Arica


21 de Mayo pedestrian street


Calle Colón

Just before the start of the climb, there is a quaint little shrine to the Virgin Mary. Perhaps a good place to pray for some stronger legs. While the path leading up to the summit is short, it is still rather steep, and I was out of breath after reaching the top. The views were indeed breathtaking though, with the Pacific Ocean stretching out as far as the eye could see, and the entirety of Arica laid out like a map below.

Apparently, this is also a popular spot for young couples to stare into each other's eyes, have long and deep conversations, and make out with one another. Not wanting to be mistaken for a creepy pervert, I tried my best to avoid including any of these amorous displays in my pictures.


Shrine to the Virgin Mary


Footpath up El Morro


Summit


Pacific Ocean


View of Arica


Ginormous Chilean flag

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The South American Altiplano - Exploring Arica - continued

Throughout the 19th and 20th century, El Morro served as an important defense position for both the Peruvian and Chilean armies, and as such, there are multiple reminders of its historical significance, including a war memorial, a military museum, and a dozen or so cannons placed along the edge of the cliff. There is also a large statue of Jesus facing the ocean, modeled after Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro.


War memorial


Statue of Jesus


View towards the south

Afterwards, I made my way back down Calle Colón and took a left towards Plaza Colón near the water. There, I visited the famous Catedral de San Marcos de Arica, a beautiful cathedral designed by Gustave Eiffel in 1876. Unfortunately, the front entrance was blocked by a large group of protesters, so I didn't have a chance to explore the interior.

Walking to the edge of the plaza at the north end and turning right onto Calle Bolognesi, I noticed a historic steam locomotive on display, perhaps a monument to the important role trains played in connecting Arica to its neighboring countries. Further up the street was a lively seafood market, with proprietors hawking their freshest catches from the ocean.


Back down Calle Colón


Catedral de San Marcos de Arica


Steam locomotive monument

As the sun slowly set, I made my way back onto the 21 de Mayo pedestrian street, where there were plenty of options for a quick bite to eat or a fancier sit-down restaurant. There were also tons of shops and stalls here selling snacks, souvenirs, and clothing. Many of the alleyways branching off the main street led to smaller markets featuring all types of handicrafts and local goods.

While I only had one afternoon in Arica, I thoroughly enjoyed the relaxed and friendly atmosphere, and wouldn't hesitate to visit again in the future. If I do get to come back, I would love to experience the beaches and fantastic surf, for which Arica is well-known around the world.

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The South American Altiplano - Crossing Into Peru Via Tacna

The towns of Arica in Chile and Tacna in Peru are separated by merely 35 miles of land. Crossing the international border between them isn't difficult, but the information on how exactly the process works is a bit scattered online, resulting in confusion and uncertainty among independent travelers. There are currently only two public ways to do this trip: by colectivo or by bus.

Prior to May 2012, there was a historic one-car train that ran the Arica-Tacna route once per day. However, due to lack of maintenance and safety issues, the service has been suspended ever since. According to this article, Peru is in the process of investing $4 million USD to revive the train, and it is expected to be operational again by December 2013.

Even taking the train into account, however, the fastest way to get from Arica to Tacna is by colectivo. Colectivos are essentially shared taxis that run the border route several times per day. The vehicles are typically older Lincoln Town Car or Ford Taurus models, and drivers will wait until there are five passengers to depart. Buses leave from the same terminal in Arica, and the cost may be slightly cheaper than colectivos. However, with room for a lot more passengers, the journey will also take longer.

I was in no rush the morning of departure, since Peru was two hours ahead of Chile, taking into account daylight savings time. I walked from the hostel to the bus terminal, which took about half an hour, and arrived at approximately 8:30 am. Be aware that the large building with the pyramidal roof is the domestic Rodoviario Terminal. Keep walking past this building until you see a sign that says Terminal Internacional.


Domestic Rodoviario Terminal


International Terminal

Once you enter the gates, the first thing you have to do is pay the international departure tax at the window immediately to your right. This token amount totals 250 CLP, or roughly $0.50 USD. Afterwards, take the slip of paper and continue into the terminal. On your left, through a short alleyway, are the buses waiting for departure to Tacna, and straight ahead are the colectivos.


Paying the departure tax


Buses through the alleyway

Typically, the colectivos parked closest to the entrance fill up quickly, so look for one that perhaps already has a small group of passengers waiting. Approach the driver and ask if he still has space and how much it will cost. In April 2013, I paid 4,000 CLP (approximately $8.00 USD), and it seemed like that was the standard going rate. Some drivers may be willing to lower the price if you negotiate. It all depends on if you feel like it is worth the time and effort.

The driver will then ask for your passport and take care of all the exit and entry paperwork. It may be slightly unsettling to hand over your passport to a complete stranger and watch him disappear into a small office, but rest assured, this is all standard practice. After he finishes processing everyone's paperwork, you and a cozy carload of new friends depart for Tacna.


Waiting colectivos


I believe this was a Chevy Impala


Small office for paperwork


Ready to go

It was a quick drive to the border, and just before entering Peru, we stopped at a large Chilean immigration building, where all passengers were required to get out of the car and line up to get stamped out of the country. This is where having a busload of people might delay the journey significantly. Luckily, with only five of us, the process was quick and painless. Afterwards, we waited on the other side for our driver to pull up, and then loaded ourselves back into the car.


Chilean immigration


Waiting for our driver on the other side

We drove for just a few minutes past the border and then stopped again. This time, is was the Peruvian immigration building, where all passengers were required to get out of the car once more and line up for immigration processing as well as security checks. All personal belongings in the vehicle had to be unloaded for X-rays, much like the procedure one would find at an airport.

Once we passed through immigration and had our passports stamped, we exited on the other side of the building, where we again had to wait for our driver. This time, it took a while longer since the vehicle had to be inspected as well. Finally, after piling back into the car, we continued on our way. From here, it was a straight shot to Tacna without any more stops.


Peruvian immigration


Waiting for our driver on the other side

The landscape from Arica all the way to Tacna certainly lives up to its reputation as the driest place on earth. I don't think I witnessed a single living plant during the entire trip (besides at the immigration buildings). No trees, no shrubs, not even a few slivers of dried grass could be seen. Only sand dunes and dirt inhabit this stretch of land. After about half an hour of additional driving, we reached the international bus terminal in Tacna. The entire journey, from departure to arrival, took just under two hours.


Landscape


International bus terminal in Tacna


Lots of colectivos

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The South American Altiplano - Crossing Into Peru Via Tacna - continued

From Tacna, there are bus routes to virtually all major cities within Peru. My final destination was Arequipa, approximately 230 miles north of Tacna. Both Cruz del Sur and Flores used to operate daily departures on this route, but since late 2012, Cruz del Sur discontinued their service. Unfortunately, Flores does not have online booking capabilities as of yet, so the only option is to reserve tickets once you arrive in Tacna.

Flores buses depart out of their own location directly across the street from the international bus terminal. There are two buildings, however, and each serve different routes. I randomly entered one of the buildings, and was then directed to the other one when I told them I needed to get to Arequipa. Regular coach tickets cost 20 soles, or approximately $7.25 USD.


Flores bus terminal


Ticket counter


Departure gates

After waiting about an hour, boarding was called for Arequipa. Larger belongings were loaded into the back, and I entered the bus and climbed up the stairs to the coach cabin. While this was a fairly old vehicle, I was glad to see that the seats were very well-maintained. There was plenty of cushion, and I was quite comfortable for the duration of the six-hour journey. Surprisingly, the bus was only about half full when we departed. However, there were two additional stops on the route, and many more passengers boarded along the way.


Flores bus terminal


Boarding our bus


Seats



As we got on our way, the entertainment system was turned on, and Joe Versus the Volcano started playing on the small TV screen. For those who don't know, this was the first of three movies that Tom Hanks and Meg Ryan co-starred in during the 90s. And perhaps not so coincidentally, this was also the first of those exact three movies that were played during this bus ride. Granted, I'm a sucker for romantic comedies, so I thoroughly enjoyed the first film, then continued watching Sleepless in Seattle, and You've Got Mail. All in Spanish, no less!

The curtains were closed for much of the ride, but I could tell that we were doing some serious winding and climbing for much of the way after leaving Tacna. Once in a while, I would peek out the window, only to notice that we were perilously close to the edge of a sheer cliff. Needless to say, I kept the curtains closed. The scenery outside was identical to the barren landscape of Arica, until we began to approach Arequipa.


Being entertained by Tom Hanks and Meg Ryan for six hours


Scenery outside

We arrived at the Flores terminal in Arequipa, located directly across the street from the domestic bus terminal, at approximately 4:00 pm. While Flores is certainly considered a budget option compared to higher-end alternatives such as Cruz del Sur or Oltursa, I found them to be very reliable and quite friendly in terms of service. They also seem to be ubiquitous in the more remote regions of Peru, so they may end up being the only choice regardless.

Upon exiting the terminal, I was accosted by half a dozen or so taxi drivers all trying to lure me into their vehicles. I am always slightly suspicious of desperate taxis that specifically stalk bus terminals, so instead, I walked out onto the main street, hailed down a more legitimate-looking cab, and negotiated a price of 6 soles to get to downtown Arequipa. The short two-mile trip took less than ten minutes in local traffic, and I finally arrived at my destination, Hostal Las Torres de Ugarte.


Flores bus terminal in Arequipa

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The South American Altiplano - Exploring Arequipa

Arequipa is often regarded as the most beautiful city in Peru. Officially founded some 473 years ago, the remnants of a long history under Spanish rule can still be seen today in its elegant colonial architecture, most noticeably in the city center. Three massive volcanoes tower prominently over the skyline, and all of them, Chachani, El Misti, and Pichu Pichu, are intricately woven into the spirit and psyche of the entire region.

Colloquially, it is known as La Cuidad Blanca, or the White City, due in part to the prevalent use of sillar, a type of white volcanic rock found in abundance nearby, for building construction. Another, perhaps less diplomatic, reason for the moniker comes from the largely European characteristics of its population and culture during the colonial period. In fact, Arequipa is noted for its faithfulness to the Spanish Crown, even as the country struggled for independence during the 19th century.


La Cuidad Blanca

In recent years, Arequipa has become an important stop along the Southern Peru tourist circuit. For those wanting to visit Colca Canyon or climb El Misti, the city will serve as a convenient base for both day trips and longer excursions. Since I only had two full days here, I opted to stay close so I could enjoy the main sights around town.

After arriving at Hostal Las Torres de Ugarte, I checked in with the friendly front desk agent, who handed me the keys and also provided a useful map of the historic city center. I had reserved a single room with ensuite bathroom on Booking.com for only $35.00 USD per night. Perhaps the best thing about Hostal Las Torres de Ugarte is its quiet and convenient location next to the Monasterio de Santa Catalina. It is also just a five-minute walk from Plaza de Armas.


Hostal Las Torres de Ugarte


Reception

My room was located at the top of the stairs on the second floor. While the space was slightly small, it was clean and had everything I needed. An old TV was installed in the corner, providing me with some entertainment during the evening hours. I appreciated the spacious shower, which was a welcome change from the previous few nights. Everything else in the bathroom was perfectly adequate.

I had a pleasant view of the inner courtyard from my window. Reading through some reviews on TripAdvisor, however, I noticed that there are actually a number of rooms in the property that only have windows facing an interior stairwell. Try to request a room with an exterior window if at all possible, or ask for one of the courtyard rooms located outside the main building.


Single room


Old TV set


Bathroom

The charming courtyard is a serene place to unwind or read if you have some downtime during the day. There are plenty of chairs and a couple of tables with umbrellas as well. The resident tortoise stakes his territory near the back of the courtyard, and can get a little grumpy if you decide to approach too closely. He tried his best to (slowly) ram his shell repeatedly into my shoe, until I finally got the hint and moved out of his way.


Courtyard


Resident tortoise

A complimentary breakfast buffet was served every morning in a large dining area on the penthouse floor. The quality and selection was much better than what I experienced in Chile. There was fresh fruit, meats, cheeses, cereal, and bread. Juice, coffee, and coca tea were also available. Each guest could request eggs cooked to order as well. Having a full breakfast was a great way to start off a day of sightseeing.


Dining area


Breakfast selection

Arguably the most popular historical sight in Arequipa is the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, or the Monastery of Saint Catherine. Often described as a city within a city, this massive 20,000 square-meter complex is an astonishing maze of twisting passageways, brightly painted corridors, and colorful gardens. Walking through the centuries-old compound and seeing the restored living quarters is like being transported back in time. While much of the grounds is open to the public, small sections remain off-limits as the working monastery is still home to approximately 20 cloistered nuns.


Monasterio de Santa Catalina







The monastery offers tours in many different languages, and I would highly recommend joining one. There is so much history inside these walls, some of which the guide will share by way of colorful stories and speculation. In particular, it was quite interesting to see the vast disparity between living cells occupied by nuns from wealthy families and those from more meager backgrounds.


Living cell


Art gallery


Wash basins in the garden