Adventures In Easter Island (LA Y)
 

This will be a quick trip report covering my recent adventure to Easter Island and Santiago, Chile. The whole trip took just over a week, but it definitely required a bit of extra work to reach one of the most remote islands in the world. Sadly, all of my flights were in economy, so they may not be quite as exciting to read about. Although I do believe it's a good thing to have some balance between luxury and frugality while traveling. Read on for all the details (trip report is now complete):

Feel free to check out my other trip reports as well:
Cambodia - April 2012
New Zealand - December 2011
Zion National Park - October 2011
Tokyo/Vietnam - July 2011

Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - Introduction

I never imagined I would ever step foot on Easter Island. It's always been one of those places people read about, but never actually visit. And understandably so - it's billed as the most remote inhabited island in the world (although residents of Tristan da Cunha would probably disagree). Airfare from North America routinely tops $1,500 round-trip for the best routes, and even then, it's difficult to get the exact dates you want due to limited flights.

More than one year ago, British Airways overhauled their entire loyalty program and massively devalued their award chart in the process. Rather than a region-based method of calculating the cost of an award ticket, the new system became distance-based. Many of their most lucrative awards, like North America to Asia or South America, immediately became their most expensive overnight.

Thankfully, they gave us several months of warning, and many people (myself included) were able to burn some of those miles prior to the revamp. One trip I knew I had to book was to Easter Island. Strangely enough, British Airways had categorized Easter Island as South America in its old award chart, and as such, traveling there from North America only cost 40,000 miles round-trip in economy. This was an absolutely fantastic deal. Immediately after the program change, the same itinerary I booked (SFO-LIM-IPC-SCL-LIM-SFO) would have cost 85,000 miles instead. Taxes and fees amounted to a reasonable $185.09, including a $70.00 fee I incurred due to a date change. In all, I estimated a redemption rate >$0.03 per mile, which is as good as it gets for the British Airways program.

Hotels, on the other hand, are notoriously lacking on the island. Unless you are willing to shell out close to $1,000 a night for one of the few all-inclusive luxury resorts, you are pretty much left with older, family-run, hostel-quality, bed and breakfasts. And even those don't come cheap. There are no international brands that I know of on the island, and therefore, no use of points. I settled on Kaimana Inn, which had great reviews on TripAdvisor, although I made sure to temper my expectations to Easter Island standards when booking.

I knew I wanted to include a stopover in Santiago as well since I had never been before. Luckily, Santiago has a much wider selection of hotels, though prices are very high as well. I decided to use a cash and points redemption for the Crowne Plaza Santiago, which is perfectly located within walking distance to many of the city's famous sites as well as the convenient metro system.

Total out-of-pocket cost for airfare and hotels combined amounted to $509.94 (with the hotels divided between two people), plus 40,000 British Airways miles and 30,000 Priority Club points. Without the benefit of miles and points, this trip would definitely not have been financially justifiable. Fortunately, I was able to go and experience some of the most beautiful and sublime scenery I've ever seen.

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Sunrise at Tongariki

Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - LAN Airlines 2609 Economy Class (SFO-LIM)

I arrived at San Francisco International Airport two hours prior to departure, and the lines for check-in at the LAN counters were already quite long. LAN is not known for their customer service, efficiency, or timeliness, so while there were approximately five agents assisting economy customers, the line still moved at a glacial pace. Business passengers didn't fare much better.

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Once I got up to the counter, however, the friendly agent checked me in without issue and tagged my bag all the way to Easter Island. She also reconfirmed the seating assignment I had already selected on LAN's website. Once my boarding passes were printed out, I headed over to Boarding Area A security check. Lines weren't long, and I was through the nude-o-scope and airside within ten minutes.

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With plenty of time to spare, I purchased a bottle of water and walked around the terminal taking some pictures of our Boeing 767-300ER. As boarding began, I headed down to Gate A4 and waited for my row number to be called. Lines were a bit chaotic, but people were mostly polite. My boarding pass was eventually scanned, and I filed down the jet bridge.

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LAN Airlines 2609
Boeing 767-300ER
San Francisco (SFO) - Lima (LIM)
Saturday November 3, 2012
Departure: 12:45 PM (scheduled) / 1:05 PM (actual)
Arrival: 12:05 AM (scheduled) / 11:55 PM (actual)
Duration: 9h 20m (scheduled) / 8h 50m (actual)
Seat: 27C (Economy)

Making a right turn into economy class, the familiar look of the two-toned seats greeted me with memories from my last trip on LAN in 2010. They have since introduced a refreshed version of both their business and economy seats, but the older incarnation still maintained its clean, simple look.

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I really love 767s, as they truly give you the most generous amount of space in terms of passenger density. I chose an aisle seat on the left side of the plane, which still afforded me an excellent view outside while providing easy access to the restroom and galley. The seat pitch felt comfortable enough at 32".

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Although I enjoyed the AVOD system, I found the interface to be incredibly slow in response time (much like my experience with it two years ago). The updated version, which I had the opportunity to test out on the IPC-SCL segment, ran a lot smoother. Once the movie started, however, I didn't notice any serious glitches. I caught a few episodes of Friends, and then watched P.S. I Love You, which, by the way, wasn't a very good movie.

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Lunch service began about an hour after takeoff, starting from the front of the cabin. I've always enjoyed the food on LAN, even in economy, and this flight was no exception. While the choice was a simple beef or pasta, the beef dish with mashed potatoes actually tasted great. The cheesecake dessert was also light and tasty. Flight attendants came by with red or white wine, and I tried a bit of the nameless red, which went well with the meal.

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After lunch, I played around with the AVOD some more, and then decided to rest for a bit. It usually takes a miracle for me to fall asleep in economy class, but I did managed about two to three hours of tepid shuteye. Approximately two hours prior to landing, a second meal service began, although this was definitely more of a snack. A sad-looking half sandwich filled with cheese and mushrooms sat on the tray along with a small container of fruit. While the presentation left a little to be desired, the sandwich actually tasted fine.

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Flight attendants were friendly and straightforward even though I didn't have much engagement with them beyond the meal service. As I mentioned, LAN as a company doesn't seem to place a heavy emphasis on service, but at the very least, I found almost everyone working this flight to be smiling and respectful.

Preparation soon began for our descent into Lima's Jorge Chávez International Airport. We had a beautifully smooth night-time landing and arrived ten minutes early at the gate. Despite a very long wait to deplane, I wasn't too worried since I still had more than an hour before my departure to Easter Island.

I followed the signs to the security checkpoint for transit passengers, and with very few people in line, got through in less than ten minutes. After a quick stroll through the small terminal, I headed downstairs to the departure gate to meet up with my travel buddy, who had arrived in Lima earlier in the evening on a United flight via Houston.

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Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - LAN Airlines 848 Economy Class (LIM-IPC)

I headed down to Gate 27 with plenty of time to spare. Judging from the crowds in the waiting area, the plane didn't look to be completely full, which was a little surprising considering how few flights there are to Easter Island. After about half an hour, boarding commenced via shuttle bus, and we were dropped off in front of the ramp stairs.

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LAN Airlines 848
Boeing 767-300ER
Lima (LIM) - Easter Island (IPC)
Sunday November 4, 2012
Departure: 1:20 AM (scheduled)
Arrival: 6:55 AM (scheduled)
Duration: 5h 35m (scheduled)
Seat: 26A (Economy)

I took my time taking plenty of pictures of our Boeing 767-300ER before entering the aircraft. Once inside, I noticed that the layout was identical to my previous flight, and featured the old versions of their business and economy class seats.

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Initially, there was another passenger next to me, but since the flight wasn't full, he decided to move closer to his wife once boarding was complete. Incidentally, I later found out that they were staying at the same hotel as us, and we would all become good travel buddies over the next few days. With two seats to myself, I was able to stretch out and enjoy the extra space.

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A late-night dinner service commenced soon after takeoff, and I was very glad they provided an actual meal since I had not eaten anything besides lunch and a snack on the SFO-LIM flight. I had considered grabbing a quick bite at the Lima airport, but decided to head directly to the departure gate instead just to be safe.

Dinner consisted of a simple choice between chicken or pasta. I went with the chicken dish, which included rice, potatoes, and a lemon meringue square. While the presentation wasn't too appetizing, everything tasted delicious (maybe I was just starving). Flight attendants came around with red and white wine, although I stuck with my orange juice.

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The same AVOD system was present on this flight, and sadly, the response time was just as slow. This was a rather short red-eye at only five and a half hours, so I decided to skip the movies and instead get as much rest as possible. After the trays were cleared, I slept soundly for a good two hours. When I woke up, we only had about an hour left in the flight.

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As we started our descent, it was still dark outside, so it was difficult to catch a good first glimpse of the island. By the time we landed, however, the sun was just peaking over the horizon. The first thing I noticed about Mataveri International Airport was how tiny it was. Just a couple of small buildings and that was it. The ramp stairs were quickly pulled up and we soon stepped out of the plane and onto Easter Island.

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First view upon exiting the aircraft

It was crazy to me that the entire airport only had one aircraft sitting there - the one we just arrived in. Other than that, all you could see was one long runway and the beautiful green hills. With a long walk to the terminal building, we had plenty of time to take pictures, which is what virtually every passenger did.

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Unfortunately, I wasn't aware that going through customs would be an absolute waiting nightmare. If I had known, I would have immediately rushed to the front of the line after deplaning. With only two officers checking passports and typing in passenger information for the entire flight, our wait time from the back of the line stretched to almost two hours. I have never experienced such an ordeal clearing customs before, and I hope never to go through it again!

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Ridiculously slow-moving line

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More people in line behind us

While waiting in line, there was a small booth to the left which sold tickets to the Rapa Nui National Park. If you purchase tickets at the park entrance, it costs $60 USD each, but getting them in advance at the airport only costs $50 USD. Keep your ticket, as you will need to get it stamped at Rano Kau and Rano Raraku in order to enter. It also comes with a detailed map of the island, which makes for great reading while waiting in the ridiculous line.

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Rapa Nui National Park tickets to the left

Finally, after getting through customs, we picked up our checked bags and exited the tiny airport. Marcelo, the owner of our hotel, was standing outside waiting for us with welcome leis. I felt bad for him, since he had to make multiple trips back and forth from the hotel with some passengers getting through customs quickly if they were at the front of the line, and others (like us) near the back taking quite a bit longer. Luckily, the town of Hanga Roa is located right next to the airport, so it took less than five minutes to get to the hotel.

Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - Kaimana Inn Rapa Nui

Kaimana Inn came highly recommended on TripAdvisor, and is actually one of the more economical options on Easter Island, where everything is steep. There is a dearth of reasonably-priced mid-range hotels, and as such, the only two categories on the island seem to be either luxury resorts priced between $800-$1,000 per night, or rustic bed and breakfasts owned by local families. The low-end option, however, doesn't come cheap either. Expect to spend at least $100 per night minimum on accommodations that are more akin to hostels.

The owner, Marcelo, offers complimentary airport pickup and drop-off, which was very convenient. One of the best things about Kaimana Inn is its location. Just five minutes away from the airport, right in the center of Hanga Roa, it is a great base to explore the town and surrounding area. The little side street it is on also minimizes noise from the main road (not that there is a lot of noise on the main road anyway).

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Main street in Hanga Rao

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Side street to Kaimana Inn

The non-descript entrance through their car park leads to the main common area, which was a great place to relax, meet other travelers, and enjoy the daily complimentary breakfast. This was where I hung out the most while at the hotel (even more so than the room itself), since it was airy, bright, and comfortable. We were given a delicious welcome fruit drink when we arrived, and showed to our room right next to the common area.

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Kaimana Inn entrance

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The cute (but lazy) family dog

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Rooms to the left, common area to the right

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Common area

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I have to say, despite tempering my expectations to Easter Island standards, I was still slightly disappointed when I first entered. I think the part that put me off the most was how dark and stuffy it was inside. While there was a large sliding glass window/door at the front of the room, you typically wouldn't keep it and the curtains wide open since it directly faces the common area and other rooms, not to mention the mosquitoes that would enter. Plus, the large overhangs outside essentially prevent any sunlight from coming in anyway. The only other window in the room was a tiny opening in the back. Luckily, the fan that was provided did wonders to circulate the air.

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In addition, the bedsheets and towels looked quite ragged, and definitely could have used some updating. The bathroom was sufficient, but not especially clean, with plenty of mildew and a very dirty rug. The sink was located in the bedroom. Despite all of this, I was perfectly fine with viewing Kaimana Inn simply as a place to sleep. And for that purpose, it was more than adequate. The main attraction, of course, was still the island and all its wonders.

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The daily breakfast was a fun and social activity, with almost all the hotel guests eating at one main table in the common area. While the food itself was alright (your typical toast, fruit, eggs, cheese, and lunch meat), the best part was being able to meet and chat with travelers from all parts of the globe. We eagerly compared itineraries and shared advice on the best places to see around the island. I had already booked a full-day tour with Marcelo prior to arrival, and was glad to hear that a few of the other guests had done so as well. It turned out to be a wonderful experience touring the island with some very cool hotel-mates.

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Glimpse of the ocean from the back of the hotel

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Jacuzzi that no one used

Kaimana Inn has its own restaurant at the front of the hotel facing the main road, but unfortunately, we didn't get to try it out. I heard that their pizzas are delicious though. Food options in general are not great on the island. Quality is low and prices disproportionately high. However, there are a couple of standouts that I will talk about in my next post.

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Main street and Kaimana Inn restaurant

Despite there being free WiFi in the hotel, it was intermittent at best. At first, we blamed it on the rolling blackouts that seemed to happen every afternoon on the island. But throughout our stay, the WiFi would come and go at all hours of the day. I don't know if their equipment was just unreliable, or if they were shutting it down on purpose. Either way, even when the system was working, speeds were very slow... which made it a bit frustrating since the presidential elections were happening while we were there, and I was literally pulling out my hair trying to find out the results that evening!

Overall, I had a very pleasant stay at Kaimana Inn. There was definitely room for improvement in a number of areas, but given the location and relative standard for accommodations on the island, I really can't complain. Marcelo and his family were very friendly and welcoming, and his kids were adorable as well. When he drove us to the airport on the day of departure, he even walked us all the way to the check-in desk and left us with a small parting gift. It's the personal touches that really make Kaimana Inn a great place to stay.

Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - Exploring Easter Island And Hanga Roa (Part 1)

With three full days bookended between two half days, we had just enough time to see all the major sites on Easter Island. Depending on your own preferences, however, three days may be not nearly enough to explore every amazing ruin and vista, or it may be entirely way too long on a tiny island out in the middle of nowhere. For me, it was just right.

I had done some research before arriving, so I knew of the main things I definitely wanted to see. But it wasn't until I started talking to other travelers and pulled out the official park map that I realized just how many points of interest there really were on Easter Island. And let me say, there are tons of stuff to see. You could literally spend two weeks there and not see everything, despite its small size and proximity.

I will give an overview of my itinerary on the island, but keep in mind that there were plenty of things we missed and places we would have liked to visit. However, we did try to hit all of the must-see spots and a few of the more obscure locales.

Day 1:
We agreed to take it easy on the first day after some long flights and the red-eye to Easter Island. By the time we were settled in at Kaimana Inn, it was almost noon-time already, so we decided to grab lunch first and then simply explore the town of Hanga Roa in the afternoon. There are actually many things to see in the immediate area, and it makes for a simple introduction before exploring the rest of the island.

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Avenida Te Pito O Te Henua towards the harbor

It's a short and leisurely stroll to the harbor area, which, in many ways, seems to be the central gathering place in town. In fact, the very first moai you are likely to encounter is located here. After a quick lunch, we strolled along the waterfront and saw numerous surfers braving the cold waters. I also visited one of the two banks in town a few blocks away to exchange my U.S. dollars. Be aware that bank hours are extremely erractic, often shutting down the entire afternoon. The small post office just up the street from the harbor is a fun place to get your passport stamped and send out some postcards.

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Surf lessons for the local kids at the harbor

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Along the waterfront

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Street market

There are two artisanal markets all within walking distance, and they offer plenty of interesting souvenirs to purchase. However, be aware that many items sold on Easter Island are not actually made there. In fact, I would venture to guess that a majority of the souvenirs are mass-produced on the mainland. We did run into a little shop just off the main road called Rapa Nui Natural Products that sold some very cool island-made goods such as hand-made soaps, chocolates, and preserves.

After a very mild afternoon of walking around Hanga Roa, we had dinner at an amazing Japanese restaurant called Kotaro (I'll talk more about it at the end of this post) and grabbed some dessert at a nearby coffee shop before heading back to the hotel.

Day 2:
The next morning, six of us from the hotel began our day tour of Easter Island with Marcelo, the owner of Kaimana Inn. This tour provided us a broad overview of the most popular sites. In addition, having a tour guide really helped us understand the history and significance of the ruins. Marcelo did a wonderful job answering all of our questions. Unfortunately, it was forecast to rain that day, and the cloud cover indicated this as well in the morning.

We first drove along the southern cost, stopping at Hanga Te'e and then Akahanga to view some of the toppled moai that have not been restored. All of these statues were in fact left in this manner until recent government projects within the last few decades significantly restored many of them to their original standing positions.

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Toppled moai at Akahanga

We continued on to Rano Raraku, the quarry where all the moai were carved and moved from to reach their final destination on the shores. This famous site is where pictures of the moai buried in the hills all come from, and it was a thrilling view to behold. Dozens if not hundreds of moai in all states of construction can be seen here, with many more abandoned while being transported down the hill. From a distance, it almost looks like these statues are walking towards the ocean. Very impressive indeed. Be aware that Rano Raraku is one of two sites on the island that require a paid ticket to enter. If you didn't pre-purchase your ticket at the airport, the entry fee will be $10 more here ($50 vs. $60 USD).

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Rano Raraku

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Moai abandoned in the midst of carving

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Tongariki in the distance

It began to pour just as we left Rano Raraku, and for the next hour, it didn't let up. We tried to wait it out at Tongariki, the site of the most famous collection of restored moai, but with no pause in the rain, we decided to run out of the minivan, take a few pictures, and continue on. Luckily, we still had two full days, and we definitely planned on heading back to see the sunrise at Tongariki, so it wasn't a complete loss.

We drove up the northeast coast and stopped at Te Pito Kura, otherwise known as the Navel of the World to the Rapa Nui. This site contains the largest moai ever completed, but it was never restored after being toppled, so it may be a little hard to appreciate the true size. A little further down the walking path is the famous magnetic rock that was supposedly brought to the island by the legendary founder, Hotu Matu'a. However, it is more likely to have local origins. Many people believe the rock emanates spiritual and healing powers.

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Magnetic rock

Just northwest of Te Pito Kura is one of only two white sand beaches on Easter Island, Anakena. It is a beautiful location that is good for swimming... but sadly, the weather was still uncooperative when we arrived. The rain was coming down hard, and the strong winds were unbearably cold. We had to settle for a few pictures of the beach and restored moai, which stood just a short walk inland.

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Anakena

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After a quick lunch of empanadas at one of the food stands near the beach, we began our trek back to Hanga Roa through the middle of the island. Along the way, you can see Pu'i hill, from which brave contestants slide all the way down during the annual Tapati Festival in February. You can also climb all the way up Terevaka, the central volcano and highest point on the island. That in itself is probably a half-day event, and we didn't have time to do the strenuous hike. We arrived back at the hotel in the late afternoon, and relaxed for the remainder of the evening.

Day 3:
Luckily, the weather cleared up on the third day, and we were treated to stunning blue skies. It was a great day to do the hike up to Rano Kau, the extinct volcano at the southwest tip of the island. There is a road that also leads up to the edge of the crater, but the hike is definitely the more scenic way to see the area. On the trail leading from Hanga Roa to Rano Kau, there is a small cave called Ana Kai Tangata, located at the bottom of the sea cliff where you can see some amazing petroglyphs. The huge waves crashing along the coast is an amazing sight to see as well.

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Ana Kai Tangata

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Follow the signs towards the hidden pathway that leads to the Rano Kau trail. It actually cuts through several private gardens, so be careful of where you go. This is a fairly strenuous hike, but quite short in length. Much of the trail lacks any tree coverage, so wear a hat and bring lots of sunscreen, especially on a hot day. About halfway up, there is a large area of reforestation that is perfect for taking a break. In addition, the views of Mataveri International Airport are amazing here. I was lucky enough to see one of the LAN flights take off!

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Trail up to Rano Kau

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View of Mataveri International Airport

Once at the top, you are treated to a spectacular view of the mile-wide Rano Kau crater lake and just a peak of the blue ocean beyond a section of collapsed wall. From this viewpoint, a must-do walk along the crater edge leads to the ceremonial village of Orongo. Like Rano Raraku, you must have an entry ticket in order to visit this site. Until the mid-19th century, Orongo was the center of the birdman cult, which hosted an annual race to bring the first manutara egg from the islet of Motu Nui back.

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Rano Kau crater lake

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Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - Exploring Easter Island And Hanga Roa (Part 2)

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Trail along the crater edge

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Vegetation inside the crater

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View of the crater from Orongo

I think Rano Kau was one of the most breathtaking sites I've seen in all my travels, and it is definitely worth a half-day visit. Do the hike up if you are physically capable... it makes the view that much more rewarding. The trek down the mountain was a lot faster, and we arrived back at Hanga Roa in the early afternoon.

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Restored dwelling in Orongo

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Motu Nui islet

In preparation for the following day, we decided to rent a car so we could make it to Tongariki at sunrise, and visit some other points of interest. Rentals are very expensive on the island, and made even more so since we didn't know how to drive a manual. For about $90 USD, we were able to get a small automatic SUV for one full day. Luckily the process was quite easy, and a local driver's license and insurance were not required.

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Rental car

After eating dinner at one of the pricier restaurant on the island, La Taverne du Pecheur (more on that below), we took in the Kari-Kari show, featuring local music and dancers. Many of dancing styles were borrowed from Tahiti and other Polynesian cultures, so it's hard to say which aspect of the show was authentically Rapa Nui. However, it was still a lively performance featuring beautiful costumes and festive music, so it may be worth the $20 USD and an hour of your time.

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Kari-Kari show

Day 4:
On the third full day, we woke up at 5:00 AM in preparation for the sunrise at Tongariki. If you are not used to driving in rural areas, the pitch-black surroundings on the way there may come as an unpleasant surprise. Despite using the high beams, all you see is a short expanse of road ahead of you and nothing else. Driving in this environment in unfamiliar territory can be a bit unsettling. Even when you arrive, it's hard to ascertain if you are in the right location. Luckily there were already a few other cars parked in the lot across the road from Tongariki.

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Sunrise at Tongariki

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Since the sun rises in different locations throughout the year, there isn't a perfect spot for pictures. Just test out different angles once the first light begins to appear. Be very careful where you walk, however, as horses graze throughout the area and there are infinite piles of manure everywhere you go! Unfortunately, it was very cloudy again the morning we went, so the sun wasn't visible at all. However, the colors in the sky were still breathtaking, and the brief rays of sun breaking through the clouds in the horizon provided some nice shots.

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We took our time at Tongariki, taking tons of pictures and even pretending to pose alongside the moai by using some tricky camera angles. You can get the pose just right from the left side of the statues, on top of a small dirt mound (do not actually step onto the ahu, as that is forbidden). Despite being one of the most popular spots on the island, it never got too crowded. After about two hours of enjoying the stunning views, we drove back to our hotel for breakfast.

In the late morning, we set out again in our rental car, heading just northeast of Hanga Roa. First, we stopped at Puna Pau, the quarry where the red topknots (pukao) of the moai were carved. These are the headpieces, or more accurately, the hair of the moai, which were completed at this site, then transported separately to the final destination. From there, we continued north on the small road to Ahu Akivi, the only instance of moai being situated inland, as well as the only example of moai facing towards the ocean. Ahu Akivi is older and smaller, but nonetheless interesting due to its unique location.

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Puna Pau

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Ahu Akivi

Finally, we drove a little further northwest to see Ana Te Pahu, a series of lava tubes and caves. Be very careful when driving on the dirt road here, as it is in terrible condition. I honestly didn't know if our car would make it since the shocks and tires were seriously getting beaten up. Fortunately, nothing bad happened, and we soon found ourselves descending into a sinkhole in the flat terrain. Inside the sinkhole, there was lush vegetation, and different pathways leading to a number of caves.

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Entrance to Ana Te Pahu

While parts of the lava tube ceilings have collapsed, allowing some light to enter, it is still an absolute requirement to have a flashlight or headlamp if you really want to explore the caves fully. Do not go into the caves without a light source. Luckily, I remembered to bring my headlamp, and we explored the area for a good hour or so before climbing back out.

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After a short rest back at the hotel, we decided to get a little more use out of our rental car by heading up Tahai, just north of Hanga Roa. This is an amazing location to see the sunset, as it directly faces the west, and has a large open field with a number of wonderfully restored moai. One of the moai even had its eyes replaced! If I had more time, it would have been lovely just to sit here for an afternoon reading and admiring the views.

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Tahai

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Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - Exploring Easter Island And Hanga Roa (Part 3)

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Unfortunately, we had to return the car to town before the sun fully set at Tahai. So we did that first, then walked over to the harbor area and a little further north to catch the last rays of light along the coast. It was without a doubt one of the beautiful sunsets I've ever seen. For dinner, we visited Kotaro once again before heading back to the hotel.

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Sunset at the harbor

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Day 5:
On the last day, we really didn't have much time to do anything else besides some last minute souvenir shopping and packing our luggage. Our flight time was at 2:10 PM, and we wanted to be ready for check-out by noon. In the morning, we visited the large artisanal market all the way at the end of the street leading up from the harbor. There, you can find all the miniature moai statues your heart desires.

Walking back down the street, there were also many small shops selling more locally-made souvenirs. I had better luck here finding less mass-produced items as gifts for family and friends. After a quick check-out at the hotel, Marcelo drove us to the airport and even walked us up to the LAN counters. Finally, he left us with a small goodbye gift as we bid adieu.

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I wanted to add a quick word regarding restaurants and dining on Easter Island. While food is expensive and quality not so great, there are a few standouts that I have to mention. First and foremost is Kotaro, really the only authentic Japanese restaurant on Easter Island, and hands-down the place with the best atmosphere and food in general.

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Kotaro

For many years, the chef and owner, Francisco, worked by himself, building the actual restaurant (consisting of a small, beautifully decorated open-air structure) and cooking all the food along with serving his customers. With the rise in popularity, he has enlarged the restaurant space as well as hired a few hands to help take care of service. However, he still stops at each table, making recommendations and small talk with his guests. Francisco is definitely a character... very gruff, slightly abrasive, yet always honest and direct.

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Francisco, owner and chef

We ended up going there twice for dinner, and I'm so glad we went the second time since he had some of the freshest sashimi I've ever tasted (he literally carried the whole fish into the restaurant)! The first night we went, I tried a stir-fried dish that was also very good (since he didn't have any fresh sashimi readily available), and my friend had the hand-made ramen. Best of all, everything was reasonably priced for the quality of the food.

I loved the eclectic music selection that he plays at a fairly loud volume... although some people may be bothered by it. Also, be ready for relatively slow service because Francisco still pretty much cooks everything by himself. Kotaro is the only restaurant I would wholeheartedly recommend on Easter Island... the food, ambiance, and interaction with the chef just made it the perfect experience.

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Fresh sushi and sashimi

Unfortunately, I felt like the other dining options lagged far behind. We tried a number of restaurants in town, and they were just decent for the prices charged. Probably one of the more expensive places was La Taverne du Pecheur, specializing in seafood and pasta. While the dish I ordered was actually quite good, I didn't think the high prices were justified. The service was extremely slow as well, despite us arriving right when they opened. In fact, we were the first customers there. The restaurant does have a nice view of the harbor from the second floor balcony though.

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La Taverne du Pecheur

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Ceviche

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Spicy shrimp pasta

There are some options for a quick and delicious meal that won't break the bank on Easter Island, my favorite of which were several food stalls right next to the athletic field across from the Hanga Roa harbor. For less than $10 USD, you can get a huge empanada stuffed with shrimp, tuna, or other types of meat. There were also plenty of other choices like burgers, steaks, and pasta. This was a great place to grab a simple lunch.

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Food stalls next to the athletic field

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Empanada and tuna burger

AMAZING photos, great report so far on IPC! I was there exactly a year ago during Tapati and everything looks so familiar.

I liked Kotaro but never got to try La Taverne du Pecheur. There was another restaurant, Au Bout du Monde, just down the trail from LTdP that had great food as well, though the prices on IPC are high anywhere.

Thank you so much for sharing! We have tickets to go later this year and it was lovely to have a preview.

Wow! What a fabulous TR!!!! I'm glad you had a great trip. You went to Easter Island for your first-time? We never been there before. I wasn't sure why the restaurant is too expensive. You cannot afford of it. I wasn't sure why that you stay at expensive hotel. There is no cheap hotel. How come?

Thank you. A very enjoyable read and great pictures! Look forward to reading about your time in Chile next.

Really wonderful TR! Hoping to make it down there myself in the next year so it's great to see the pictures and read about your experience.

Thanks for the comments everyone! I will try to get the rest of the TR done soon, since I still have a backlog of my TR to Northern Thailand and Laos as well! :D

@N830MH, I think everything is very expensive on the island because much of the raw materials and products have to be imported from the mainland. A large container ship arrives once a week from Valparaiso dropping off all sorts of goods. Also, I believe they are trying to limit development on the island to maintain the ecology, further adding to the cost of living there.

Thanks very much for the TR! Great stuff.

Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - LAN Airlines 842 Economy Class (IPC-SCL)

Mataveri International Airport is tiny. With only LAN Airlines servicing the island, there is no need for anything larger than one hall and one departure gate. In fact, with the cancellation of the Lima to Easter Island route starting in March 2013, there will only be two other destinations: Santiago and Papeete. The check-in counters were at the very end of the hall, and had a separate line for Premium Business passengers despite the economy lines being mostly empty.

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Once our bags were checked in, we walked over to the other end of the hall, where there were a number of gift shops packed to the brim with tourists looking for last minute souvenirs. About an hour before departure, the doors to the boarding room opened, and passengers were screened via a quick security check before filing into a large waiting area. There were plenty of open seats, as well as more gift shops and a small snack shop. Passengers were welcome to walk outside from here and take pictures of the aircraft sitting on the tarmac, although we were not allowed to walk onto the tarmac until boarding began.

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Once boarding was called, a mad rush of people crowded into the departure gate hallway, and we slowly made our way to the front, where our tickets were torn. Once passengers got onto the tarmac, everyone took their time snapping some final pictures of Easter Island before boarding.

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LAN Airlines 842
Boeing 767-300ER
Easter Island (IPC) - Santiago (SCL)
Thursday November 8, 2012
Departure: 2:10 PM (scheduled)
Arrival: 8:55 PM (scheduled)
Duration: 4h 45m (scheduled)
Seat: 27A (Economy)

When I entered our Boeing 767-300ER, I was pleasantly surprised to see the new-style interiors. Even though both the business and economy seats were very similar to the old version, the refresh nevertheless looked incredibly modern and clean. Incidentally, these new seats are identical to those featured on LAN's new Boeing 787s (once they are actually allowed to fly).

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New Premium Business

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New economy

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I selected a window seat in hopes of catching a good view of Easter Island as we took off. However, I wasn't exactly sure which side of the plane would be ideal. Luckily, I made the right choice by sitting on the left side. It was a beautiful sight to behold as Easter Island gradually faded from sight. Once we broke through the thick layer of low clouds, it was clear skies all the way to Santiago.

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One last look at Easter Island

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I got to playing around with the AVOD, and was relieved to see that they finally fixed the dreaded slow-response issue on the older generation system. This new version was quick and responsive, and the screen was bright and clear. With a rather short flight time, however, I didn't bother watching a full movie. Instead, I caught a few episodes of the LAN travel series, which gave an informative introduction to a number of South American cities.

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Service was friendly and efficient, no different from any other LAN flight I'd been on thus far. Meal and drink service began approximately an hour in, and we were given a choice between chicken or pasta. While extremely simple and not very pleasing to the eye, the chicken with rice was appetizing, and filling enough to tide me over for the remainder of the flight.

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As we traveled east, the sun quickly set. And by the time we started our descent into Santiago, it was completely dark outside. We landed smoothly and exited the aircraft via jet bridge and into the terminal. Because Easter Island to Santiago is considered a domestic flight, no immigration paperwork was needed, and we also saved the $160 USD reciprocity fee that Chile charges American citizens upon entering through Santiago International Airport.

After picking up our bags, we booked a ride to the Crown Plaza Santiago at the Taxi Oficial booth right inside the arrivals hall. Although this option may be more expensive than hailing down a random taxi outside, it is always better to play it safe when it comes to taxis in foreign countries. I think that is a far better option than getting ripped off or worse. We paid 16,000 CLP (~$34 USD) for the one-way ride, but if you decide to book a Taxi Oficial for the return trip as well, they will give you a discount. Since it was fairly late already, the drive into town took less than 30 minutes.

Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - Crowne Plaza Santiago

I selected the Crowne Plaza Santiago primarily because of its excellent central location. The historical neighborhood of Barrio Lastarria, filled with restaurants, theaters, museums, and bars is just a five minute walk from the hotel, while the bohemian enclave of Bellavista is a ten minute stroll in the opposite direction. The convenient Baquedano metro station is only two blocks down the street, and connects to both Line 1 and Line 5. The hotel has good rankings on TripAdvisor (#14 out of 157).

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Crowne Plaza Santiago

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Lobby area

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Reception and concierge

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Dining area and lounge

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Cool vintage phones

We arrived late at night and check-in was quick and easy. I had used the Priority Club cash and points option (15,000 points + $70 USD per night) to book three nights at the hotel. The receptionist acknowledged by Platinum Elite status, and offered a higher floor room with a nice view, which I appreciated. Unfortunately, in-room WiFi was not free, but that wasn't a problem since there was a business center in the lobby area with four computers for complimentary guest use. There seemed to be at least one unoccupied computer available at all times during the day. A small gym was available at the hotel, but I didn't bother checking it out.

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Business center

The room itself was very typical of large chains... nothing special, but spacious and bright. This is not a new hotel by any means, so some wear and tear was evident in the carpeting and furniture. The double beds were really comfortable, especially after spending the previous four nights in a rather old twin bed. Sheets and linens were of good quality and clean. The bathroom had a large tub/shower combo, and the water pressure was perfect.

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The front desk was helpful, although depending on who you asked. We wanted recommendations on good places to eat, especially on the first night when we arrived late, and the receptionist offered up a perfect suggestion (more details in the next post). We were also given a detailed map of Santiago and plenty of information on how to get to different locations.

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View from the room

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View of Cerro San Cristóbal

Regarding transportation in the city, we found that it was a much better option to take the hotel car rather than hail down a random taxi on the street. The hotel car offered a flat rate to neighborhoods throughout the area, while on the other hand, we were ripped off by taxis that would take roundabout routes. In the end, it cost more to take an old metered street taxi than to take the nice hotel car. In any case, there should hardly be a need for taking taxis except late at night when the metro isn't running.

While exploring the city, we passed by a number of other hotels, including the Intercontinental, the Holiday Inn Express, and the Radisson Plaza. While some of them were newer, I think the location of the Crowne Plaza really can't be beat. I would definitely recommend this hotel to anyone visiting Santiago.

Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - Exploring Santiago (Part 1)

I really liked Santiago de Chile. Perhaps not as famous as Buenos Aires or Rio de Janeiro, it is nevertheless filled with a myriad of cultural, entertainment, and culinary opportunities. I sort of liked the low-key nature of the city, and was pleasantly surprised at how friendly the people were. The metro system was particularly convenient for getting around, although it does shut down around midnight. Buy a rechargeable Bip! card for easiest access.

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Santiago Metro

We arrived late on the first night and asked the hotel concierge for some dining recommendations. After a quick taxi ride, we arrived at Liguria, a noisy, chaotic, bustling bar/restaurant in Providencia filled with locals having a great time on a Thursday night. We definitely went to the right place for an introduction to Santiago! Try their famous Lomo a la Paila, and wash it down a Pisco Sour for safe measure. Sit at the bar is you don't want to wait for a table, and you'll get your food and drinks served quickly by a friendly waiter.

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Bar Liguria

The next day, we decided to take a free walking tour of Santiago. I'd actually never done one of these before, so I had no idea what to expect. We opted for the afternoon tour, which met at 3:00 PM in front of the Catedral de Santiago in the Plaza de Armas. Lasting about four hours, we walked to a number of landmarks, including Palacio de La Moneda, the Pre-Columbian Art Museum, the Supreme Court building, the Old Congress Building, the Santiago Stock Exchange, Cerro Santa Lucía, Barrio Lastarria, Barrio Bellavista, Cerro San Cristóbal, and Pablo Neruda's house (La Chascona).

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Streets of Santiago

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Plaza de Armas

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Palacio de La Moneda

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Santiago Stock Exchange

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Pablo Neruda's house (La Chascona)

The central part of Santiago is great for walking, and there are plenty of things to see all within a few mile radius. Note that while we walked to a lot of these sites and our guide was a wealth of information regarding their history and cultural significance, we didn't actually go into any of them. The walking tour gave a great overview of the major landmarks in the city, but it's really up to you to decide which places are worth a more in-depth look. Make sure you give your guide at least the recommended tip since that is how they make most of their money.

We ended the tour in the early evening outside of La Chascona. Unfortunately, it was already closed and we didn't have a chance to see the interior. The surrounding area of Bellavista is a wonderfully bohemian neighborhood with tons of good restaurants and bars. It also has a fun college town atmosphere due to the numerous universities nearby. I ate at a restaurant named Galindo on the corner of Constitución and Dardignac. Their cazuela (traditional Chilean stew) was probably the most delicious thing I tasted while in Chile. There is also a huge outdoor food court nearby with dozens of restaurants to choose from.

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Cazuela (traditional Chilean stew)

Graffiti is treated as public works of art in Santiago, and walking just a few blocks west in Bellavista, you can see some of the best examples. I was amazed at how intricate and creative many of them were. These are definitely not the typical tagging you see in the States, as I felt like some of the graffiti could have easily been displayed in galleries or art museums.

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That evening, we ate at Astrid y Gastón, arguably the most famous restaurant in South America. Although thoroughly Peruvian by origin, the food is a fusion of Latin American cuisine, and relatively moderate in price for the quality and service. The Trio de Ceviche was very interesting and quite tasty, while the dessert presentation of apple tart with yellow pepper ice cream was fantastic.

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Trio de Ceviche

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The next day, we visited the Central Market, a huge indoor marketplace filled with food stalls, restaurants, and vendors selling just about anything you can imagine. Afterwards, while walking to Cerro Santa Lucía, we stopped at Emporio La Rosa for the best gelato in Santiago (supposedly). I don't know if it really is the best, but I must say the raspberry sorbet I had was ridiculously good.

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Central Market

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Emporio La Rosa gelato

Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - Exploring Santiago (Part 2)

Cerro Santa Lucía is a small hill in the center of Santiago, surrounded by a beautiful park filled with trees, flowers, and fountains. The stroll up the hill is a great way to unwind during the afternoon hours, and provides a nice view of the city from the top. There is also a fort at the very top of the hill which you can climb, although the stairway may be very crowded.

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Cerro Santa Lucía

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Directly to the east of Cerro Santa Lucía is the neighborhood of Lastarria, perhaps a more upscale and toned-down verson of Bellavista. Barrio Lastarria is filled with quaint cafes, restaurants, theaters and museums, and best of all, street festivals and live performances on the weekends. We spent a good amount of time just exploring the tiny streets and alleyways, and browsing the numerous stalls selling random knickknacks. Just to the south of Barrio Lastarria is the Gabriela Mistral Cultural Center, a striking orange building with some interesting exhibits.

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Barrio Lastarria

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Street festival

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Gabriela Mistral Cultural Center

The business district in Providencia has some interesting sights to see, such as the tallest skyscraper in Latin America, Gran Torre Santiago, which is still under construction. It it part of the Costanera Center complex, which also houses the largest mall in Chile. The mall contains just about every international brand you can think of, and if you love shopping, this is definitely the place to be.

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Gran Torre Santiago

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Costanera Mall

Finally, on our last day, we decided to climb up Cerro San Cristóbal, the highest and most visible landmark in Santiago. Unfortunately, the funicular that transports passengers up the hill was under restoration, so the only options were to take the bus or walk. Walking to the top isn't too difficult as long as you are not in terrible shape. The trail is wide and the elevation gain gradual. Once at the top, you are rewarded with a stunning view of all of Santiago. The 22-meter statue of the Virgin Mary at the summit provides a great place to relax and take in the view. In addition, there is a beautiful little stone chapel lined with intricate carvings on its walls.

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Statue of the Virgin Mary

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View from the top of Cerro San Cristóbal

Santiago was a lovely city to visit, and I definitely would like to return at some point. With a developed infrastructure, quirky neighborhoods, plenty of delicious restaurants, great nightlife, and lots of outdoor activity, there really is something for everyone. In the future, I would love to take a road trip from Santiago to Mendoza, or visit the port city of Valparaiso for a quick day trip.

Reading your TR was like deja vu....We visited Easter island and Santiago last November. We also stayed at Kaimana Inn (maybe even in the same room!!!!) on Easter Island, and Marcelo also took us on a day tour of the island; we also went to the Kari Kari show, and I got to dance with one of the girls:o We crammed everything you did into 2 days:eek:

We also stayed at the Crowne Plaza in Santiago......:eek:

It almost seems like you have raided my photo album and used my pictures as I have almost identical pictures of Easter isalnd and Santiago that you posted:p

It was a great trip; we also went to Cusco, Machu Picchu, Ollantaytambo, Pisac and Lima on the same trip!!

I shouldn't have been so lazy and done a trip report, but you have done justice to both Easter Island and Santiago in your report above^

Haha, thanks so much for the kind words kpc. I wonder if we were maybe even there at the same time! Yours was definitely a longer trip if you also did Machu Picchu though. I really love S. America... headed back there again in about a week... this time to Bolivia.

I'm trying hard to fight procrastination and finish this TR, but it definitely takes time to write :p

Very enjoyable report, thank you. My favorite parts were the Santiago parts, I went there a few years ago and consider it a very underrated city. We saw pretty much all the same attractions. Thank you again for sharing.

Great TR. Easter Island is one of the most magical places I visited. I too stayed at Kaimana Inn :)

Liguria in Providencia IS a fantastic restaurant. I had a great meal there in Nov 2011 and it was a dining highlight of Chile.

The Easter Island part looked great. That's a particularly good reward that you got by today's standards.

Interesting report to read.

Unfortunately, the impression I have got is that Easter Island is an overpriced dump. Even the Moai look fake to me, like an artist decided to make a bunch of concrete "garden gnomes" to attract clueless tourists to his outlet shop on the beach.

@CMK10, I definitely think Santiago is underrated. It's a beautiful city to visit with lots of very eclectic neighborhoods.

@EuropeanPete, haha Kaimana Inn seems like the place to be. Although the whole time I was there, I kept wondering if there were better places to stay that were perhaps more under the radar (aka not featured on TripAdvisor).

@worldtraveller73, Liguria was great! I wanted to go back, but there are so many good eats in the city.

@dieuwer2, Easter Island may be overpriced, but imo it is certainly not a dump. But everyone enjoys different types of travels. If the historical and cultural aspects of the island don't amaze and impress you, then you definitely shouldn't go.

Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - LAN Airlines 600 Economy Class (SCL-LIM)

This was an absolute mess of a flight. I've never had such a chaotic, stressful, and unprofessional experience at the airport. We took the Taxi Oficial back to Santiago International Airport and arrived approximately three hours prior to departure. Unfortunately, what we thought would be a quick and easy check-in process turned into a nightmare. Immediately, I noticed a single massive line for all United States-bound flights.

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Two hour wait to check in your bag

Apparently there was a flight cancellation to New York (from what I could gather), and on top of that, their systems were also having problems. Worst of all, they only had three agents working our counters for the hundreds of people in line. The check-in line stretched to almost two hours long and, understandably, people began getting extremely upset. Each person who finally got up to the counter ended up just standing there and waiting for fifteen minutes or more as the agent would simply stare at the computer screen waiting for a response.

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Three agents working a line of hundreds

LAN finally added three more agents as people were close to missing their flights and yelling began to erupt in line. One lady literally sat down on the ground in front of the counters in protest. Not surprisingly, the wait time didn't improve by much. When I finally reached the counter, the agent told me I had to wait for a seat assignment despite having previously reserved my seat online and having the printout to prove it.

The agent dismissively denied that I had a seat assignment. She proceeded to turn to the agent next to her and began chatting and giggling. Needless to say, I quickly understood why people were becoming infuriated. The gentleman beside me was in a similar situation. He was arguing with his agent, and then escalated it to a supervisor manning the stations. I voiced my concerns to the supervisor as well, and her immediate response was to tell me to step aside so the agent could help others. I refused, and the gentleman next to me told me emphatically, "don't move or they will brush you aside".

The argument between me and the supervisor became heated as I was suddenly told that I'd been put on standby for the flight despite having a confirmed seat and previous seating assignment. Fed up with the situation, I finally lost it and begin yelling at the supervisor and agent, while the gentleman beside me went off on them as well. Magically, less than five minutes later, a seat was found for me and my boarding pass was quickly printed out.

This was hands down the most frustrating check-in experience I've ever had. The level of unprofessionalism displayed by the LAN ground staff was unbelievable, as the agents simply did not care if we got on the flight. They appeared far more concerned with chatting with each other than trying their best to resolve any issues. The supervisor was arguably worse, abetting their behavior and brushing off customers.

Despite getting delayed in line for two hours, we finally got our bags checked in and made it through security. When we got to the gate, we were hit with another surprise: our flight had been delayed by almost an hour. Normally, that wouldn't be an issue, but since we were already faced with a tight connection in Lima, this only made matters worse. We were now left with less than 45 minutes to deplane, go through transfer security, and make a mad dash to the departure gate.

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Since LAN 600 was technically a flight to the United States (despite the brief stop in Lima), there was a secondary security check at the gate, which delayed boarding even further. Luckily, I wasn't selected for the bag search, but my friend was. Finally, after a four hour ordeal at the airport, we boarded our flight to Lima.

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Secondary security check line at the gate

LAN Airlines 600
Boeing 767-300ER
Santiago (SCL) - Lima (LIM)
Sunday November 11, 2012
Departure: 10:15 PM (scheduled) / 11:01 PM (actual)
Arrival: 12:01 AM (scheduled) / 12:24 AM (actual)
Duration: 3h 46m (scheduled) / 3h 23m (actual)
Seat: 22L (Economy)

Once seated, I was frankly too tired and worked up to take many pictures. All I could do was look at the time and wonder if we would make it for our connecting flight to San Francisco. I was sweating bullets the entire way.

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The seats and layout were completely identical to the previous flights, although this was again the old configuration with the very slow AVOD system. I didn't even bother turning it on for this rather short hop. After queuing for what seemed like an eternity on the tarmac, we took off smoothly and left Santiago behind.

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A quick meal service began shortly after take-off, and I selected the chicken dish. I have never been disappointed with the catering on LAN, and this also was no exception. While not particularly pleasing to the eye, the meal was hearty, filling, and quite delicious. Perhaps I've just grown accustomed to starving on domestic flights in the States, but I'm always amazed that foreign airlines still cater full meals on flights less than five hours long.

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As I mentioned previously, LAN is definitely not known for exemplary service. But even with tempered expectations, I felt like the flight attendants were extra curt with passengers. Nary a smile could be found anywhere. I have a feeling it was probably due to them dealing with hundreds of angry and frustrated passengers that night.

Luckily, we made up some time while in the air, and we landed in Lima just about 20 minutes after the scheduled arrival time despite the long delay. Still, there were many passengers who were nervous about their tight connections, and people were up and out of their seats even before the seat belt lights were turned off. Once off the plane, we began our mad dash to the transfer security line along with dozens of other frantic passengers.

Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - LAN Airlines 2608 Economy Class (LIM-SFO)

Upon arrival in Lima, we only had about 45 minutes to catch our connection to San Francisco. We ran through the halls like madmen along with a number of other passengers, only breathing a huge sigh of relief when we realized that the transfer security queue had no one in line. After a very quick security check, we made a beeline for the departure gate, arriving just as boarding got underway. A secondary security check at the gate went a lot faster than in Santiago.

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LAN Airlines 2608
Boeing 767-300ER
Lima (LIM) - San Francisco (SFO)
Monday November 12, 2012
Departure: 1:15 AM (scheduled) / 1:17 AM (actual)
Arrival: 7:55 AM (scheduled) / 7:42 AM (actual)
Duration: 9h 40m (scheduled) / 9h 25m (actual)
Seat: 27C -> 31H -> 25C (Economy)

Upon boarding the aircraft, I walked to my seat 27C and noticed that another gentleman was already sitting there. Similar to the previous flight, I had reserved my seat assignment online months earlier. And although the check-in agent in Santiago claimed I didn't have a seat reserved for the SCL-LIM flight, she didn't have an issue with the LIM-SFO leg, reconfirming my seat at 27C. I suppose I shouldn't have been surprised when I arrived and saw my seat occupied, given the chaos I experienced with the Santiago ground staff.

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We looked at each other's boarding passes, and saw the exact same seat 27C printed on both. When I flagged down a flight attendant and asked her where I should sit, she directed me to 31H. However, when I made my way over to that seat, I noticed someone was already seated there too! I couldn't help but laugh at the situation. Fortunately, this flight was maybe 60% full, if that, with nobody in the exit rows. Again, I asked a flight attendant what I should do, and she told me to go ahead and take an entire exit row with plenty of extra legroom all to myself!

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Awesome legroom at the exit row

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Despite these initial issues, I have to say that the contrast between the flight attendants on this flight and the previous flight was like night and day. Everyone was warm, friendly, and full of smiles the entire way up. Perhaps the extremely light load and red-eye departure made their job a lot more relaxed and pleasant. It's truly amazing to me how much difference a crew can make to the overall enjoyment of a flight.

Since this was a very late departure, only a snack service was provided shortly after takeoff. Although I typically enjoy LAN's catering, the sandwich that was served definitely could have used more flavor and filling. A thin slice of mystery meat was smothered in melted cheese and placed between two disproportionate pieces of bread. The whole thing looked rather sad. At least the small cake square tasted pretty good.

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The flight was empty enough for passengers to occupy an entire middle row for themselves and make it into a nice bed, although the empty rows were all quickly taken. With enough legroom for me to stretch out in the exit row, I was able to get some comfortable shuteye during the nine and a half hour flight. About two hours prior to landing, a quick breakfast service began. Again, I was slightly disappointed with the dried-out omelet and leftover piece of potato unceremoniously dumped on the side. At least the fruit and cake were edible.

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Soon after breakfast service, we began our descent into San Francisco on a beautiful clear morning. We landed a little bit ahead of schedule, and Premium Business passengers were allowed to deplane first before the rest of masses filed out. Although my experience with LAN was slightly unpleasant on the return trip, I was happy that it ended on a positive note with a great crew and awesome seat. I still think they are the best option when traveling to South America.

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Descent into San Francisco International Airport

Thanks for coming back to finish this one up...sorry to read about those LAN experiences at SCL. I will say that I had a frustrating experience with them in GRU a number of years ago that was similar, incompetent and unprofessional and most of all, unhelpful check-in agents. Still, they're great once you're in the air.