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Eating my way through IST and getting there on TK Economy

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Eating my way through IST and getting there on TK Economy

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Old Dec 24, 2012, 1:22 am
  #31  
aw
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Angelis led us inside a building that appears to be some sort of warehouse where vendors store their goods and we see men go up and down the stairs carrying bags. Being in this surroundings felt special, like a lucky guest who has been invited into someone's house to partake a meal. We sat down at a table in the middle of the room and lay some newspapers on top. There is a tiny room by the staircase where a man is brewing some tea and coffee.

The items that Angelis bought were placed on the table and breakfast is served. I had some bread with clotted cream and honey, followed by olives and fresh cheese. Turkish breakfast are simple affairs, but they are fairly healthy consisting of sliced cucumbers, tomatoes, olives, cheese, a piece of bread and tea.


Inside the warehouse




Breakfast is served




Clotted cream and honey




Turkish tea and bread




After an energizing breakfast, we made our way to Safa bakery where we sample different types of baklavas and every conceivable syrup drenched pastry.





Tulumbas

These are unleavened dough that are cylindrical with edges that have been deep fried and soaked in syrup.




This type (dry kuru baklava) is made with a very thick syrup and keeps for a longer time than the others.




A sprinkling of pistachios is always good







The kitchen upstairs




Additional seating area upstairs




We continue down the alley and stop by a Kokoreç stand - Kokoreç are lamb intestines that are most often prepared as a doner stacked on a horizontal skewer and grilled over charcoal fire which gives them an extra rich flavor.




After the kokoreç is cooked, it is cut and mixed with spices and then served in Turkish bread.




I tried the kokorec as a sandwich and it was spicy with a chewy texture. After this very authentic treat we kept walking towards Rustem Pasha mosque. Behind the mosque there is a tiny local restaurant - Halis Kardesler that specializes in lentil soup and serves other dishes. Local vendors stop by here early in the morning to get their "fix" before the day starts.




Pepper flakes to add more "heat" to your meal




Inside the restaurant



....to be continued.
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 10:28 pm
  #32  
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Rustem Pasa Mosque

Located above the busy shops and warehouses of the Spice Bazaar, this mosque provides a welcoming respite from the chaotic hustle and bustle below. What this place lacks in size it more than makes up for it in charm and visual appeal. Its exact location is on Hasırcılar Çarşısı (Strawmat Weavers Market) in the Tahtakale neighborhood and it is said that no other mosque in Istanbul can rival its magnificent blanket of tiles. Our untimely arrival coincided with the midday prayer time, so our group was unable to enter the mosque and had to appreciate its beauty from the outside.

From the street, you climb up through a twisting flights of stairs that lead you to a spacious courtyard. The mosque has a double porch with five domed bays projecting a low roof supported by rows of columns.



















Descending the stairs to go back to the street




Street scene below viewed from the courtyard




We pass through stores selling stoves and kitchenware, and eventually stop at a stand with a box of Keci Boynuzu (Carob tree). We sampled the dried pod which has a sweet lingering taste. In Turkey keci boynuzu is an aphrodisiac consumed by men.

Stoves




Kitchenware






Natural "viagra"




The Turkish pizza

Our next stop was a Pide stand where we watch how this treat is made. It is quite similar to Italian pizza, but the addition of pastirma and lamb sausage is definitely Turkish.











...to be continued - a kid in a candy store.
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 12:14 am
  #33  
aw
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Sweet temptation

After a very satisfying pide break, we keep on walking passing by some interesting sights. A basket store in one corner, then at one turn we see a group of merchants on the floor getting ready for prayers. I wouldn't mind getting lost exploring the visual richness that one encounters on a day at the market. Our next destination is Altan, an old fashioned candy store that produces its own products. Upon entering we are greeted by the sights of colorful containers with all sorts of Turkish candies. There is lokum as well as halva and hard candy. This visual assault would make any kid happy. We sample rose and pistachio lokum, some halva and then with the owner's permission, we are allowed to grab any candy contained in the jars that strike our fancy.






Altan Candy Store
















The Han

After our sweet interlude, we continue to the next destination. This time we will not consume any more food, but instead visit an abandoned 17th century building - The Ali Pasa Han. A han is a caravanserai or roadside inn where travelers could rest and recover from a long journey. In the past they played a crucial role in the development of the coveted trade routes covering Asia, the Middle East, North Africa and Southeastern Europe, especially along the famous Silk Road. These buildings were square or rectangular with a walled exterior and a single portal wide enough to permit camels or heavily laden beasts to enter. Inside there was a courtyard that was usually opened to the sky and plenty of water for human and animal consumption, washing and ablutions.

As we entered into the han, our group sat in the courtyard and hot tea was brought to the table. We took time to relax and then Angelis invited us to explore the upper level of the han on our own. There was so much history contained within these walls and I can not begin to imagine some of the tales that travelers must have told each other about the different cultures and places that they have been back then. Sometimes we take the convenience of a plane ride for granted.


This bakery caught my attention while walking to the han




The Han








Hot tea on a cold day. That is what a call RELIEF!






Exploring the upper floor











This was probably one of the most memorable stops along this tour and it really made an impression on me. I could have spent more time here enjoying the peaceful silence.

...to be continued
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 12:42 am
  #34  
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We continue to a lively neighborhood where we step inside a lokantasi and purchase some pumpkins and veggies. Then it is another stop at a pudding shop where we sample tavuk göğsü (chicken pudding), a delicacy served to the sultans at the Ottoman Palace. The dish is made out of chicken breast that is softened by boiling and separated into fine fibers. It is then mixed with sugar, milk, cracked rice and other thickeners along with a dash of cinnamon. Some historians speculate that this dish is identical to the medieval version "white dish" or blanc manger that was commonly served to the European upper class. It tasted like a very firm milk custard flavored with cinnamon. Afterwards we are taken to a very small restaurant and are introduced to "sebzeli doner", thin layers of lamb alternated with tomatoes, onions, peppers and turned in front of a grill. We grab a table inside and sample this delicious doner with a glass of fresh squeezed pomegranate juice.


I would have loved to sample some of the pastries of this vendor that we encountered while walking




Inside the lokantasi where we bought the pumpkins




Sebzeli doner








After an uphill trek through a somewhat "rough" neighborhood, we arrived at Vefa Bozacisi, an Istanbul institution. Boza is a fermented drink consumed during wintertime made of millet or bulgur resulting in lactic acid that is somewhat sweet with a slightly lingering sour taste at the end. It has the consistency of pudding and it is served with roasted chickpeas with cinnamon.

This is definitely "off limit" to tourists






Vefa Bozacisi










We continue our tour passing by the Valens Aqueduct and ending in Siirt Şeref Büryan Kebap restaurant. This is one of the top restaurants specializing in Büryan style lamb, which is slowly cooked over coals in a deep hole in the ground resulting in very tender meat. Believe it or not, we are having lunch now. We start with a few mezes - an ezme and traditional salad, followed by a meat stuffed bulgur patty, some aryan yogurt drink and perde pilavi - a fragrant peppery pilaf made of rice, chicken, almonds and currants wrapped in a pastry shell and baked until the exterior turns golden. Then the tender pieces of buryan lamb arrive sandwiched between two pieces of bread. The pieces are flavorful and tender, made even better with the bread that has soaked up the juices. By the time the candied pumpkin is passed around, no one at the table had room for it. We thanked our host Angelis for a fantastic and enlightening tour and said good bye. This was a great experience and quick crash course into Turkish cuisine. For anyone interested in food, it will serve as a great introduction to this marvelous cuisine.


Valens Aqueduct







Seref Buryan restaurant








Perde Pilavi - chicken and rice in a crust






Buryan lamb




...to be continued with return trip IST-LAX on TK Y.
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 6:25 am
  #35  
 
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You definitely get an A+ for this report.
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 12:08 am
  #36  
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Thanks Paint Horse.


TK 9 IST-LAX
EQP 773 - Seat 53G Economy class
Dept. 1250P - Arriv. 1645


After an invigorating shower and a hearty breakfast, I was ready to head out to the airport. I decided to arrive at least 2 hrs. before dept. to allow plenty of time to go through security and check-in.

Once I arrived, the scene was total chaos. In Turkey, you must go through security before you are allowed to enter into the terminal and it seemed that everybody decided to fly today at the same time. There were 4 lines to go through security, two on each side of the entrance lobby. After I waited patiently for what seemed like an eternity, I was finally inside and proceeded directly to the TK counter to check-in. There was a designated area for all North American flights and when I was in line, a friendly agent approached me and started asking some security questions. He then requested my passport and told me that he will meet me at the end of the line. Once there, he hands the passport to a colleague who in turn asked me more questions. Satisfied with the answers, he placed a sticker on the back of my passport cover and invites me to proceed to the check in counter.

A smiling agent signals me to come over and checks my passport. She hands me my boarding pass and I inquired about an upgrade to Comfort Class. She tells me it is full but Business still had 4 open seats. My ears perked up and I asked her how much for the upgrade to J. She then directs me to the ticketing counter located a few rows behind. I made my way to the counter faster than a roadrunner with the anticipation of snatching a coveted business class seat. Was today my lucky day? No so fast. After a good 5 min. wait in line, I approached the agent and asked if an upgrade to Comfort class or even Business is available at this point. She typed on her computer and said that she cannot process the upgrade because my ticket was issued by AA and not TK. All of a sudden I saw red all around me, bloody red to be precise. The agent kept talking but I was not able to hear anything. I just went from a state of elation to one of disappointment within a few minutes. This did not make sense at all. I was able to upgrade out of LAX and now they are telling me that because my ticket was issued by another party they were unable to process the upgrade, even after I started the trip and was willing to pay extra. It is now a little less than 1 hr. before dept. and I still have not cleared security and immigrations. I thought about requesting to talk to a supervisor right there, but with time ticking away, I decided to let go of this battle.

I was fuming and there was already a line at the immigration counter. My passport was stamped and I went through another x-ray clearance quickly. As luck would have it, my gate was all the way at the end of the terminal. Another round of questions ensued and finally at the last security check point I was allowed inside the gate area. Almost all the seats were occupied in the tiny holding area and today's flight was going to be full. About 10 minutes later an agent made an announcement to board the plane. Earlier I saw a wheelchair pax rolled into the plane first and then it was a free for all. No invitation for Business class pax or those traveling with children to board ahead. Thankfully I was positioned next to the door and boarded quickly.

We boarded from 2L and there was a couple of smiling FA's stationed at the door entrance welcoming pax. I made my way to the rear where I was in the last row. There were 2 FA's positioned in the back and one of the welcomed me with a big smile and helped pax find space for their luggage in the overhead bins. I was assigned 53G, an aisle seat in the threesome middle and each seat had a blanket, pillow and earplugs in a sealed bag. I noticed that the bin right above 53 does not open, so you need to find alternate bins if you need to store anything overhead. I was praying for an empty seat next to mine and my prayer was answered. As a matter of fact, the middle section was going to be all mine until a guy moved to the aisle seat on the other side. From what I could see, every seat was occupied except for the one next to me.

When it comes to economy class, TK offers an excellent product. Once the seat belt sign was turned off a few minutes after take off, FA's sprung into action by distributing amenity kits, printed menus and customs/landing forms from a cart. A menu in economy class is a rarity these days, and an amenity kit is even rarer. Another unexpected surprise is the distribution of hot cloth towels before every meal service. These towels are comparable to what U.S. carriers use on domestic flights in F. Then the drink cart makes an appearance followed by the distribution of the meals. There are two selections to choose from and if you are sitting all the way in the back, the FA's start the service from back to front, at least when it comes to the rear cabin. Metal utensils are also provided which somehow elevates the dining experience on this carrier.

Today's meal selections were Turkish minced beef with ratatouille and tomato bulgur OR chicken cutlet with pureed, fried eggplant and rice. In addition to this you will find a salad with mozzarella and marinated green beans as appetizers. For dessert a chocolate mousse was offered which was every bit as decadent as the name suggests, topped with a dollop of whipped cream and a sour cherry on top, contrasting nicely with the rich sweetness of the mousse. FA's ask if you need water when they offer you the meal and they offer you a warm roll from a basket at the same time. The meal was probably one of the best that I have ever had in the back of a plane, and much more satisfying than other meals I have tasted in premium cabins. At the end of the meal, when trays are picked up, FA's offer tea or coffee. When all the trays are collected, the FA's will then distribute individual bottles of water to each pax signaling the end of the first meal service. I was dozing off when this happened, so the FA left a bottle in my seat pocket which I found handy when I woke up. If you feel peckish, you can always help yourself to as many cheese sandwiches and cherry cakes as you want in the galley. These packaged goodies are what TK gives for meals on domestic flights.

At about 2 hrs before arrival, mood lighting is turned on signaling the start of the second meal service. Once again, hot towels are distributed but there is no choice of "snack" this time. What you get on TK as a light meal or snack is comparable to a full meal on its competitors. On the tray there is an herbed chicken fillet with mushrooms raviolis and sauteed spinach as the main course, accompanied by artichoke in olive oil for appetizer and apple strudel with whipped cream for dessert. Let's not forget the freshly baked bread which is individually placed on your tray.

As far as service is concerned, FA's presence is minimal outside of meal service. Drinks and snacks are set in the galley and water runs are not offered at all. The crew can be a mixed bag, ranging from truly outstanding to indifferent and robotic. I have noticed that the English level tends to vary and some staff need more training in this area than others. I will definitely fly them again and hope that they open SFO as a new destination in 2013.

Thanks for stopping by and commenting.


And now I will let the pics do the talking:







Distribution of amenities after take off







Amenity kit and menu in Economy class






Menu






Distribution of hot towels






Beverage service with hazelnuts before meal service





Meal cart with beverages




My meal






Snacks






Mood lightning before 2nd meal service






You call this a snack? This is a full meal!






Sweet ending




A few previous trip reports:

Istanbul via AA, IB, TK & OS with visits to lounges. (first trip to Istanbul)
First time to Tokyo on JAL J with stay @ Intercontinental ANA...
Quick photo report on UA p.s. SFO-JFK and Cathay Pacific F JFK-Vancouver with stay @ Fairmont Waterfront.
Sao Paulo and Ouro Preto on LAN Business.
How I got pampered by Lufthansa F and Spanair on my way to Israel.

Last edited by aw; Dec 27, 2012 at 9:49 am
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 4:21 am
  #37  
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Bravo.......

So how does one do a food tour of IST? My partner and I were in IST last year and want to go back, this tour sounds interesting.
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 8:38 am
  #38  
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aw,

What an amazing adventure. They say failure to prepare leads to inevitable torment and self loathing but it is clear you had taken very special care with your travel planning. Cappadocia looks so unique and wonderful in a quite alien way. What a marvellous side trip that must have been.

Well, I was due to fly out to IST tomorrow for a couple of days of much needed R&R. As is usual for me, i've left the detailed planning to the last possible minute. So after reading your epic report, I have decided to stop at home instead and have a man lash me every 20 minutes while forcing me to watch Steven Seagal movies back to back until the end of the year. I deserve no more for such sloppy planning.

Oh wait! The Tarihi Cesme restaurant's baked vegetable stew does look very comforting. There may be redemption in store for me yet.

Thank you so such for sharing your experience. It is a thoroughly enjoyable read.
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 9:18 am
  #39  
aw
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Thank you FlightNurse and Prospero

FlightNurse - you can get the latest tour information by emailing to [email protected] - this particular tour cost $125 and you are required to put a deposit of $50 per person first and pay the balance on the day of the tour. It is a great introduction to Turkish food and my guide Angelis was a great source of knowledge.

Prospero - you are in good company. I tend to procrastinate in certain areas like packing my bags at the last possible minute, but when it comes to research I'd like to gather as much information as possible and check from all sources. The vegetable stew was good, especially comforting on a cold winter day/night. I can think of worse "punishments" than watching Steven Seagal movies.
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 12:56 pm
  #40  
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Thumbs up

Fantastic Report and sweet ending indeed!^

Now, what do you do for an encore?
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 4:15 am
  #41  
 
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Just wanted to swing by again and say thank you for taking the time to write all of this up. Fantastic balance of narrative and photos.

We'll certainly take it along next month.

Best,

Joel
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 6:08 am
  #42  
 
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Thank you very much for a great report. As a previous poster has noted, there is a very nicely judged balance between narrative and photos.

It was a particular treat to come across the photos of Kunefe. I-ve always had a soft spot for that dessert.

Look forward to reading another food tour in a different destination.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 2:16 pm
  #43  
 
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This was a great thread, one of the most interesting I've ever seen at any forum anywhere on any topic. I'm going to book my trip in early January, and apply some of what I learned here.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 6:15 pm
  #44  
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Originally Posted by aw
Thank you FlightNurse and Prospero

FlightNurse - you can get the latest tour information by emailing to [email protected] - this particular tour cost $125 and you are required to put a deposit of $50 per person first and pay the balance on the day of the tour. It is a great introduction to Turkish food and my guide Angelis was a great source of knowledge.
thank you for the info, my partner and I are planning our trips for 2013, and IST was a place we want to go back and visit, and this food tour is something that most people do not get to see and to me this is what traveling is all about, I do have one question for yuo, how did you get AA to issue TK ticket?
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 12:14 am
  #45  
aw
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UA_Flyer - your kindness is flattering. I guess you have to wait until my next trip there.

JoelA - thanks and have a great time on your trip. Glad I was helpful.

michlflyer - stay tuned. I am planning more trips in the future. I must confess that I have become very fond of this dessert. The first time that I tried kunefe was in the Arab Quarter in Jerusalem at what I believe was a Palestinian place. Both versions are ver good, but the Turkish one was more decadent.

flamingpanties - thanks for your kind words. Enjoy Istanbul and let me share a tip with you. I have found that the restaurant recommendations on guide books like Lonely Planet and Time Out tend to be reliable in my experience. When I followed the suggestions on Time Out in Paris many years ago it was right on. I discovered "La Regalade" thanks to them before they became famous. A lot of the places that are featured by Istanbul Eats are also in Lonely Planet. Of course, Istanbul Eats' website and book are also great sources.

FlightNurse - Here's wishing you great travel for 2013. Food is a defining factor in a culture and tells us a lot about it. My ticket was originally issued by Cheapoair.com in Munich under AA tkt stock. Talk about convoluted things. Because of that, TK was very hesitant to do anything about upgrading me to Comfort class when I spoke to them over the phone and this was also a problem as you read on the airport that day that I came back and wanted to upgrade at IST airport. However, LAX counter was able to process the upgrade without any problems when I departed on the outbound. Go figure.
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