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The Best Beach in the World? SQ First Class to Amanpulo (PICS!)

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Old Nov 13, 2012, 1:53 pm
  #1  
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The Best Beach in the World? SQ First Class to Amanpulo (PICS!)

Introduction

Well, I was on a quest. Having returned from the fantastic city of Tokyo, and having previously visited the wondrous Bali, and gorgeous Trisara in Phuket, I determined that I just love the beach, and if given a choice, I would take the beach over a city any day. That made me look for reports of the best beaches and beach resorts in the world. There was one exotic place that stood out to me as having one of the very best beaches, if not the best, in the entire world, and that place was Amanpulo, on Pamalican Island, in the Philippines.

To cap off my quest for the best beach, I decided to take the opportunity to try scuba diving for the very first time, and to get certified as a scuba diver by PADI. That added some purpose to my trip, and also gave me an opportunity to experience the beach in a way I had never before.

Getting There

I had previously tried Cathay Pacific, Thai Airways, Emirates, and Swiss, all in First Class, but Singapore Airlines First Class had eluded me. Since SQ never allowed partner award redemptions, I never had the opportunity to try it out...until, a computer glitch made First Class awards using Aeroplan and United Miles, wide open for just a few days.... I jumped on this and booked the following itinerary;

YYZ - SFO on UA in J

SFO -SIN (via Seoul) on SQ in F

SIN - MNL on SQ in F

MNL - SIN on SQ in J

SIN - SFO (via HKG) in F

But I couldn't find any availability for my final required leg (SFO-YYZ) in business class...So for that I paid cash, but fortunately I found a ticket for about a third of the usual price, with just one catch...I had to go to from SFO to Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, via Toronto. But after such a long flight, I decided to not get on the final leg to Saskatoon, and unfortunately lost that final ticket. Will have to visit Saskatoon another time I guess.

In any event, I was really excited about trying out SQ's F, albeit on the 777, and not the a380 suites. Nevertheless, this was a rare opportunity that I am really glad that I managed to take advantage of. The only issue (more on this later) is that it was quite a burden to go from Toronto to San Francisco, just to catch the SQ flight...normally I would prefer to catch CX right from Toronto non stop to HKG, when flying to Asia (although CX unfortunatly terminated F service from YYZ), and even Philippine Air has started non-stop to Manila in November, 2012, although obviously even in J, this would not be a great idea compared to experiencing a premier airline's J or F...

Booking Seats and Booking the Cook

Using the locator codes requested from AP, I managed to select seats (2A in F and the first row bulkhead, window for my J flights).

I also managed to Book the Cook on SQ's website, and pre-ordered most of my main course menu items. As it turned out, this was a fun thing to do, but certainly not necessary or even more desirable than the regular menu, which offered plenty of variety and was of equal or greater quality. If I was to go again, I would not Book the Cook, as on balance, it is nice to see how one feels at the moment of ordering...

In the months prior to my departure, Expert Flyer was showing a modest amount of fellow passengers, but the seats filled up a lot more on the day of travel, especially on the final HKG-SFO leg, which was 8/8.

Toronto-San Francisco Positioning Flight

The good and also the bad thing about flying to the US from Toronto, is that there is a US immigration facility that one must clear at YYZ. This is bad because there is usually a tremendous wait to clear US immigration at YYZ, necessitating getting to the airport 3 hours prior to one's flight. Contrast this with flying YYZ-HKG in F, and one can safely get to the airport 45 minutes or an hour before the flight, as all that is requires is check-in with zero wait at the CX counter....The good thing about it however, is that once one arrives in SFO (or elsewhere in the US for that matter), one is treated like a domestic US passenger and just walks off the plane into the US without any further ado.

The YYZ-SFO flight was uneventful although a bit painful due to the anticipation of finally getting the 'real trip' going from SFO.

On arrival in SFO, I had a leisurely 4.5 hour layover, which I easily used to take the BART airport train to a decent mall only two or so stops away from the airport in a matter of mere minutes. There, I shopped for a few items which I had misplaced prior to my departure. They had a good variety of stores there, but I could not find what I was looking for. So instead, I had my favourite hamburger at Five Guys, which had just opened that week, at the mall

Flying Singapore Airlines in First Class
Upon returning to the airport with plenty of time, I passed through security, attended the nondescript SQ lounge, and shortly thereafter boarded the SQ 777 plane. I was warmly greeted upon boarding and shown to my seat. I was offered a drink and chose Dom Perignon.

The F cabin itself was a bit of a let down. I had seen pictures of it and so was not terribly surprised, but all the same, it seemed quite dated in comparison to other F class products, even CX and EK, and especially in comparison to LX. The dull brown decor and the dull brown and beige seats seemed antiquated and certainly not dynamic and inspiring.





On the other hand, the service was consistently excellent and gracious, even with a full cabin on occasion. I always felt that the attendants took a special interest in my enjoyment and well being, and always felt that they wanted to ensure that I had everything that I wanted, and even made suggestions on occasion when they felt I could be indulging more!

The food was always very good, such as the vaviar, the fresh salads, and the Lobster Thermidor:



The wagyu steak was also good, but don't confuse it with A5 wagyu as I had in Tokyo...



One of the best dishes on the plane was actually a breakfast noodle dish, in my only SQ J segment (MNL-SIN):




The seat itself was somewhat troublesome when it came to putting it into "lazy boy" mode...It was not easy to do and often would not do it at all properly, even with attendant help...There just didn't seem to be a proper positioning stage where one is laying back with one's feet up, away from the TV...

But when it came to the bed, the bed was very comfortable, especially with the fabulous duvet and several pillows. I always did find the cabin unusually warm however, especially with the Givency pajamas that they gave out.

The Amenity kit was my favourite of all, since I love Kiehls products, although the selection was not particularly useful onboard...It was more of a take-home kind of sample package....

The layover in Seoul for a couple of hours was not too bad...I just wandered around the airport a bit, but it was not fun and was kinda depressing thinking that after that 12 hour or so flight, I got to get back on the plane for another 6 hours or so....The layover in Seoul ought to be avoided if possible, but given the distance, I am not sure that a layover of some sort can be avoided...

Arriving in Singapore for my 8.5 hour layover

I had arranged the Crown Plaza at Changi airport for my layover since SQ F lounge no longer had any sleeper rooms, and for $150 more than the airport hotel, it seemed worth it to have a real and nice hotel room. My arrival was at 1 am.....

The CP is connected right to the terminal, so after immigration I checked in as a Platinum Priority Club member, on a fully pre-paid advance rate. I had selected the room right below the suite in order to maximize my chance of getting a suite due to a potential Ambassador/Platinum upgrade. But when I checked in, the lady tried giving me a twin room instead of the King that I had ordered, and no upgrade whatsoever....So, it was a waste of the extra $30 or so to book the higher level room, since no upgrade was forthcoming. Not only that, they didn't even give me free Internet or club access....Very disappointing, even though I would be leaving before breakfast anyhow and it was too late for snacks etc. They provided a card with my "platinum benefits" listed....the highlight was 10% of laundry...you get the picture...

The Crown plaza room was very nice, modern and comfortable. It pissed me off though, that they offer "free Internet" in the lobby, but told me they turn the damn thing off after 10:30 pm so instead I used the free WiFi in the airport...

Not only that, instead of using the F&F rate, I paid more so that I could take advantage of some points promos...and they failed to credit my account claiming that my prepaid rate was a "non-qualifying rate"! I have taken that up with head office....Very annoying...

I would say that service was poor at the hotel, but it was convenient and modern. I would stay again in the same stop-over situation, or I would forego the hotel altogether and just hang out at the 24 hour casino at the Marina Bay Sands....

SIN - MNL

By this time, I was ready to get to my final destination already...I had gorged myself on 4 full six course meals on SQ F, and was tired of being on a plane, even in SQ F...

I used the SIN F lounge which was very nice, but there was no Private Room in the terminal I was leaving from, so that would have to wait until my return trip...

And if you are wondering where all the pics are, I lost my damn camera on the plane from SIN to MNL...The photos pick up with my Android phone...... Travelling so long requires excellent situational awareness, and unfortunately I lost that after about 25 hours....

FINALLY - arriving in MNL and going to Amanpulo

Upon arrival in MNL, I was supposed to be greeted after passing through immigration by an Aman rep. Well, every other hotel had one right there holding a sign, but I waited 15 minutes before asking around if anyone had seen the Aman rep... I was told he was outside so went outside and there he was...I told him I was waiting for him inside like I was told he would be, and all he said was that 'he was waiting outside'...That was a bit disappointing, as the whole idea is to have the rep provide you with a worry free and seemless experience...

I was taken by the rep to a nice waiting vehicle, marked with Shangri la's name...and the driver took me to the Aman private terminal that was supposed to be close/connected to the main terminal. Since there was a few hours before my flight was scheduled to take off for Pamalican Island where Amanpulo is located (about 1 hour and ten minutes from Manila), I asked the driver if her would take me to the Mall of Asia which is close by the airport so that I could pick up a few things that I had misplaced prior to my departure. He obliged and informed Aman accordingly and I got the items that I wanted. I tipped him US $30 for his efforts, and when I checked out, I found out that I was billed about $100 for this one hour excursion....Anyhow, at least I got what I needed at the mall, which was very nice and modern and had a huge selection of stores....It is one of the largest malls in all of Asia...




I then departed from the private air terminal on a 19 seat aircraft.





The flight was very pleasant although the seats were tight. But being on a small aircraft like this was not scary at all.

THE BEACH

Upon landing, I was greeted by the Resort manager and taken by buggy on a tour of the resort. Things were looking up! Check out the beach!!! This is how it looks every day!













The Resort

I was in a very nice casita with direct beach access.







The resort's main club house was beautiful as well:






A typical day for me was waking up at around 4:30 in the morning, making my own coffee with an excellent machine in the casita, checking emails, etc., and then going for a bike ride on a bicycle they provide each guest along with a club car. I would bicycle around the island, eventually arriving at the gym at 7 am, would work out there, go for a swim in the ocean, take in a yoga class (first time for that...Ouch!), then go have breakfast. While waiting for my food, I would go for a swim in the pool.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 2:01 pm
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The Best Beach in the World? Cont'd





By then it was about 9 am, and I would relax on the beach for a bit before heading out for a scuba diving lesson.

The divemaster, Earl, was incredible and helped me immeasurably. Was a great experience.

The service at Amanpulo was incredible throughout, with excellent housekeeping, cheerful and friendly staff always ready to help, incredibly speedy private dining, and first class facilities throughout.

The Food

This was perhaps the biggest disappointment. All the food was very good, but with the exception of some incredibly tasty grilled sardines, nothing was really outstanding (measured on the basis of whether I would want to try the dish again).

The sardines:



The breakfasts were always very good, but the Philipino brekfasts and the Bami Goreng was not nearly as good as what I had previously had in Bali.



The Greek salad was just OK:


The crab was very good but was nothing compared to the one I would have in Hong Kong later on...




The bread and tomato and pepper salad (supposedly a Spanish dish), was pathetic - a Crouton Salad!



The expensive wagyu steak was nothing more than a sub par/average steak, and was very disappointing, as were the fries which were soggy:



The spicy Spanish style shrimp were however, very good;





The pizza was quite good, but it was only a six inch pie. I had it with a decent buffalo mozzarella salad, but nothing to write home about...





There was no excuse for serving shrimp chips with KETCHUP at the Viet Namese restaurant:



So, overall, the food was disappointing, but not really bad...I just wish that the food would have been a highlight of my stay...And it ought to have been given the high quality of the food at other Aman resorts which I have visited.

Last edited by blueline7; Nov 13, 2012 at 2:16 pm
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 2:03 pm
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Wonderful pictures! I hope you had a wonderful time in Amanpulo!
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 2:14 pm
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The Best Beach in the World? Cont'd

In terms of overall enjoyment, it is hard not to have a wonderful time in such an environment as this. The gorgeous beach and the abundance of activities keep one constantly feeling good and relaxed. I even had a couple massages, one of which was by a guest masseur from Tokyo who performed a Shiatsu massage on me. It was simply the best massage I could imagine...Was total therapy...not just a recreational.

Every night they left simple Philippine treats at the bedside, and every afternoon brought fresh fruit. They always had dried fruit, snack mix, and little cookies on hand in the casitas, which were constantly replenished.



But in the end, it was the beach which made this place outstanding. How do you think it compares to other beaches which you have experienced?














The crystal clear blue waters at the perfect temperature, the talcum powder sand, the lush tropical greenery, the gorgeous sunsets, and the abundant and vibrant aquatic life, made this a most memorable experience.

Manila

I decided to stay at the Sofitel, which is not in downtown Manila or Makati, and is near the airport. It is a resort hotel, and the service was just perfect throughout. The rooms were modern and comfortable, and the location was very convenient for a one night stay before returning home.





There was a nice fruit plate and a bottle of French wine awaiting me in my room, which was upgraded to club level. Since Prime Minister of Canada, Stephen Harper was there for a state visit, the usual club lounge was not available, but was given access to a snazzy cafe/bar area.

But the highlight was the recently relaunched Spiral buffet, complete with 17 live action cooking stations and state of the art facilities. I will continue my report on that buffet experience, tomorrow. But rest assured, it rivaled the exceptional buffets in Hong Kong and Dubai.

Last edited by blueline7; Nov 13, 2012 at 2:24 pm
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 2:37 pm
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This is a great TR! I am looking forward to reading the rest. Thank you ^
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 11:46 pm
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Nice TR. The beaches do, indeed, look lovely! Looking forward to more.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 2:56 am
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Beaches look stunning..
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 8:37 am
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That beach/island is absolutely stunning! Looks like you have enjoyed a fabulous trip ^ If only there were a more affordable resort on the island so I could enjoy it too
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 1:58 pm
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The Best Beach in the World? Cont'd

OK, so a word about my check-in to the Sofitel, which might be of interest to the fellow Canadians out there. As I was pulling up in the taxi, I saw a rather pasty looking guy in a dark wool suit standing by the curb outside of the hotel, and he was wearing a poppy on his lapel, which is the well recognized icon of Remembrance Day in Canada. I thought nothing of it, other than 'Gees these Canadians need to dress a little lighter in the heat of Manila!'.

Upon checking in by the gracious attendant, she mentioned that the club lounge would not be available due to a function. Well, it turned out that the entire lobby was crawling with Canadians wearing poppies! And it turned out that Prime Minister Stephen Harper was there with a massive entourage of RCMP officers, Ministers, staff, local embassy officials, Philippine dignitaries, etc. It was hilarious and amazing. All the Canadian staffers kept looking at me, apparently wondering how I got to change out of my wool suit and into shorts and a tshirt...

As aforesaid, the primary reason for my stay at the Sofitel was that they had relaunched their Spiral buffet restaurant only a few days before I had arrived. The previous one had been destroyed by the typhoon and had been rebuilt and improved. I arranged to meet a local Manila-based up and coming food and travel blogger there, Niel Mugas, and took him out for dinner at Spiral.

It turned out to be one of the largest and most varied buffets I have ever seen. Certainly it was as good on most respects as the Intercontinental in Hong Kong, and as good in many respects as the one at the Burj al Arab in Dubai. Its strength was in the great atmosphere of a newly rebuilt facility, and in the massive array of various ethnic group cooking stations, featuring live action cooking. They had Chinese, Philippino, Japanese, Korean, Thai, Indian, steaks, lamb, breads, seafood, sushi, soups, hot pot, dim sum; they had nearly everything one could think of, and in abundance with many, many dishes for each station.









It even had its own glass room filled with cheese and charcuterie!






It had beautiful fresh sushi:






Great seafood including delicious oysters from france, and massive shrimp.








They had delicious pan seared froi gras!



They had a huge number of delicious chinese dishes as well, of excellent quality:



They had a large selection of dim sum:




I had many plates of food, but it is simply impossible to try even a fraction of the offerings available.




The desert selection was very beautiful as well, with a massive assortment of candies even!







I would say that this is definitely worth trying if one is in Manila.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 3:18 pm
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Wow, nice ics!
Thanks for sharing.
D
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 11:06 pm
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excellent trip report!
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 9:40 am
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that is an impressive spread. shame about the so so quality of food at your beach side resort. the one thing on my recent trip to india that i took note of was that every 5* (real 5*) i was at had blow my mind food at all the restaurants...

sounds like you might have had some typhoon shelter crab in Hong Kong...tis hard for many to compete with underbridge or others that do this dish well...looking forward to the rest...i loved your Tokyo food reports...
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 11:00 am
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mkjr, indeed you are correct that I was speaking of the incredible Typhoon Shelter Style Spicy Crab in Hong Kong....! I will go over that shortly... But first, please allow me to pick up where I left off, which was indulging in the Sofitel Spiral buffet in Manila...

Well, my flight left from Manila to Singapore at 8:10 in the morning, and even though my hotel was only about 15 minutes away from the airport, it was recommended that I leave at 6 am, so I did. After a quick check-out (no time for breakfast and the club lounge only opened at 6:30 am...), I headed to the Manila airport by taxi ($2.75! as opposed to $40-80 the hotel charges for a car service) where I easily checked in, and then had a bit of a wait out outgoing customs. They charge about $13 in airport taxes on the way out, so it is good to have US or PHP cash handy....

After an uneventful flight in comfortable SQ J to SIN, I arrived in SIN for a very brief layover of 2 hours. I had to transfer terminals via the skytrain there, and then headed to the First Class lounge with the Private Room. This lounge and Private Room was far better than the previous one that I had in the other terminal. Since I was already full from the noodle dish I had onboard, and since I was going to have another meal on the SIN-HKG leg in F, I just ordered a very nice chirashi sushi bowl in the Private Lounge.



Service was impeccable in the F lounge and the Private Room, which is just open to F passengers and had an extensive a la carte menu, including stir fried lobster, steak, etc. It was then off to HKG, where I arrived at about 5 pm. I passed through HK customs in about 15 minutes, purchased a SIM card for about $8 at the 711 at the airport, then purchased a same day return ticket to Hong Kong Station for about $14. The Airport Express was a pleasant 24 minute or so ride, where I transferred to the MTR and Central Station, and then took the MTR to Causeway Bay station which was only a few stops away.

Gosh was it great to be in Hong Kong again; my favourite city in the World!





I love the humid air, the vibe, the people, everything. I feel very much at home there for some unexplained reason!

From Causeway Bay MTR station, I used Google Maps on my Android phone to navigate the short block or two to get to the Under the Bridge Spicy Crab Restaurant, which other FT'ers recommended, and which has even been featured on one of ANthony Bourdain's shows about Hong Kong Food. I was NOT disappointed! It was great!!!!!






It is a very simple style Chinese restaurant that was filled nearly entirely with Hong Kongers as well as other Asian tourists. I was quickly seated even without a reservation, but consider this just lucky. I would try to get a reservation if I was there a bit later on in the evening, or if I was with other people.



Upon being seated, I was offered a massive beer, but instead just took a somewhat large beer, and was brought the customary peanuts (which I believe one is nominally charged for). Everyone seemed to be drinking beer there, although many families were sharing one single massive beer bottle. I was brought a menu with all the items accompanied by pictures. The interesting thing about the menu, is that although the crab is expensive, the other dishes were mainly 7 or 8 bucks each, so it is great if you are there with a number of people, and can then share a crab as well as try a bunch of dishes. Anyhow, I didn't let dining alone stop me from order three dishes for myself, with no intention of actually finishing them.

I ordered a medium size crab, done medium spicy. Now, a medium size crab is more than enough for one person, so use that as a guide. I was also cautioned by the waiter that "Medium Spicy" was actually very spicy. I ordered it anyhow, and would caution you that he was right. It was challenging it was so spicy, so I would order one grade below that next time to better be able to eat the damn thing!



What you see in the above picture, is a massive crab covered in fried garlic and chili....i.e. that is NOT ground beef...This mixture was simply INCREDIBLE! I wanted to eat it by the spoonful but it was so damn hot and I was about to board a plane in a few hours! Definitely try this!

As you can see in the background, I also ordered some spicy mussels whcih were fantastic. Note however that it is actually a quite small dish despite the size, since the majority of it is shells....I also ordered a lemon chicken for old time sake, but it was really not very good. It was darkish meat for the most part, and was not at all crispy as expected...quite soggy in fact. So do not order this. Most people were just having the crab there, by the way, with families ordered the largest one there was and sharing it. But the menu was huge, so do not be afraid to try other things on it, as long as you do get the crab as the main event.

Well, my layover was only 6 hours or so, before catching SQ 2 back to SFO. This was no problem whatsoever, as outgoing immigration at HKG at that time was very fast, and I already had my boarding pass. I went to the SQ lounge, which was nothing special at all, and remarkably did not even have its own bathrooms, let alone a shower. Quite a shame really. I stopped by Shanghai Tang, which is my absolute favourite store in HK, and bought a few relatively inexpensive items, as their major items are ridiculously high priced. A pair of gorgeous Chinese style pajamas for instance, are well over $500.

Back on SQ F, the seat and food and service was incredible as ever...



Although by this point, I was kinda tired of the movie selection, after having seen everything I wanted to see....I had a bunch of stuff on my iPad as well, but had already gone through that too...Next time I got to get a larger capacity iPad....

SFO Nightmare

Arriving at SFO was a nightmare with a 2 hour layover. The customs and immigration line (mandatory - EVEN for transfer pax), took 1.5 hours, leaving me only forty minutes to check in for my next flight (SFO-YYZ on AC), get past security, and board the plane. It was REALLY tight and I nearly didn't make it at all....Accordingly, if you are in a similar situation, TAKE A 4 HOUR LAYOVER just to be safe and not have to worry and run like hell through the terminal....In my case, my options for a later flight were limited as I didnt want to stay over the night in SFO....

Conclusions

1. Do visit Amanpulo as it is one of the best beaches and beach resorts in the world!

2. Do break up your journey there with one or two night layovers en route; do not try to go straight there... lol

3. Do try the Manila Sofitel and the incredible Spiral buffet there.

4. Do go for the Spicy Crab in HKG!!!!

5. Do not go from the East Coast of North America to the West Coast, just to go on SQ; although it is amongst the very best airlines, it is simply too much of a chore to do this other than to try out the airline once....

6. Avoid US customs at all costs throughout your travels.

7. Definitely consider a scuba diving course. Although challenging, it will make you very proud to have completed it, and will also open up a bunch of new possibilities for when you travel.

8. Whenever you are done your trip, do report back to the FT community so we can all learn and enjoy through your experiences!
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 11:38 am
  #14  
 
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Amazing TR. Thanks for sharing.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 12:28 pm
  #15  
 
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Wow, those beach pics look amazing. Definitely beats me trip to Kauai. Too bad I was too broke after the wedding lol.
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