Exploring Cambodia With Stopovers (CX J, KA J, K6 Y, PG Y, TG F, OZ J, OZ F)
 

I've been feeling a little reticent since coming back from Cambodia way back in April. Perhaps it's the post-vacation blues... most likely it's just laziness. Regardless, I'm finally ready to begin writing my full trip report, and I'm actually very excited to recap the truly epic highs and sadly, dismal lows, of my week and a half in Asia.

This will be a rather abbreviated report in terms of destinations, given that I really only visited two main places: Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. The good thing is that I was able to pack in quite a number of flights in such a short time. Unfortunately, not all of them turned out to be enjoyable, and I apologize in advance for a few of the entries, since they will be rather, shall we say, lacking, to say the least. Read on for all the details (links will become active as I complete them).
Feel free to check out my other trip reports as well:
New Zealand - December 2011
Zion National Park - October 2011
Tokyo/Vietnam - July 2011

Cambodia April 2012 - Introduction

Planning for this trip started more than a year ago, when I decided I wanted to visit Cambodia and Laos. I already had two long vacations planned for 2011 (Tokyo/Vietnam and New Zealand), so of course, this trip had to be pushed back to spring of 2012. One of the benefits of committing almost a year in advance is that award availability is often wide open - and that's exactly what I saw when I started to do some preliminary searches online. I decided I wanted to try out Cathay Pacific's business class going there, and a variety of first class flights on Star Alliance airlines coming back.

I had miles on both American Airlines as well as British Airways (pre-devaluation), but it made more sense for me to use AA since it only cost 5,000 more miles in business class one-way, and I could save hundreds in fuel surcharges that were imposed by BA. In addition, as I described in my trip report on Zion National Park, I was able to tack on a LAS-(LAX)-SFO leg months in advance of my actual departure date due to American Airline's one-stopover-at-a-North-American-gateway rule. In the end, my itinerary looked like LAS-(LAX)-SFO-(HKG)-PNH, with a five month "stopover" in San Francisco. Total cost was 55,000 AAdvantage miles and $32.50 in taxes and fees. SFO-HKG was on Cathay Pacific business class, and HKG-PNH on Dragonair business class.

Curiously though, despite the nearly universal rule that no changes are allowed after travel has already begun on an award ticket, I was not only able to change my SFO-(HKG)-PNH departure date after I had already flown the LAS-(LAX)-SFO leg, but the routing as well! In late January, I realized that I would have to push back my departure date from San Francisco as well as cancel the entire Laos portion of my trip due to crazy deadlines at work. I called up American Airlines hoping and praying that they would let me change the dates, but I was pretty much prepared to just cancel the entire vacation. Amazingly, the agent I got happily pushed my departure date back by a month, and even allowed me to change the routing to SFO-(LAX)-(HKG)-PNH (since no direct SFO-HKG flights were available)! I was floored at how flexible she was, and best of all, I realized I would be able to try out Cathay Pacific's new business class on the LAX-HKG flight! I definitely think I lucked out with this particular phone agent, but it really speaks to how important it is to simply hang up and call back if you ever get an uncooperative customer service representative.

For my return flights, I had originally booked VTE-BKK-(HKG)-ICN-(LAX)-SFO using United Airlines miles in first class (with some business class segments). The total cost was 72,500 MileagePlus miles (pre-award chart changes in June 2011) plus $79.60 in taxes and fees. However, due to the work commitments I mentioned, I had to cancel the VTE-BKK leg and push all the dates back by a month as well. Again, I got lucky with the phone agent because usually, changing the origin/destination incurs an additional $75 fee for non-elites. However, I was able to convince her that I was simply removing one segment from my itinerary. After getting approval from her supervisor, she agreed to make the changes without any fees! In the end, I had a BKK-(HKG)-ICN-(LAX)-SFO itinerary, with BKK-HKG on Thai Airways first class, HKG-ICN-LAX on Asiana Airlines business and first class, and LAX-SFO on United Airlines first class.

In early 2012, Cambodia Angkor Air finally fixed their website and I was able to book a one-way PNH-REP flight very easily, for a total cost of $88.00. Although this is only a 45-minute flight gate-to-gate, they can pretty much charge whatever they want since flights are almost always full of tourists. Similarly, for REP-BKK, Bangkok Airways has a complete monopoly over this route, so the one-hour, one-way flight ended up costing a whopping $276.68! Luckily, I was able to use 20,751 ThankYou points to offset the cost.

So with all the flight dates finally set, I was able to start planning for hotel stays and places I wanted to visit during the week I would be in Cambodia. In addition, I had stopovers in Bangkok and a very long overnight layover in Seoul which I had to plan for. It just so happened during this time that Starwood Preferred Guest announced category changes for their hotels, and I noticed that both the Le Meridien Angkor and the Aloft Bangkok were going down one category (3 to 2 and 2 to 1, respectively). I quickly took advantage of these changes and booked my cash and points stay for both hotels. In the end, the Le Meridien Angkor only cost 1,600 Starpoints + $30 per night, and the Aloft Bangkok only cost 1,200 Starpoints + $25 per night!

For my stay in Phnom Penh, there was actually an InterContinental in town, but the location wasn't convenient and the reviews were just ok. So I went with The Pavilion Hotel, a smaller local chain that was reasonably priced and very close to the Royal Palace and National Museum. For Seoul, I had a 23-hour layover, which gave me plenty of time to go into the city and visit a friend of mine. I had a category 1-4 free night e-cert from my Chase Marriott Visa that was expiring in May, so it worked out perfectly. I booked one night at the Courtyard Seoul Times Square, which was in a good location... although location really matters very little in Seoul since the metro system is so vast and efficient.

Total amount spent out of pocket for all airfare (including taxes and fees) and hotels ended up being $480.10, in addition to 55,000 AAdvantage miles, 72,500 MileagePlus miles, 20,751 ThankYou points, and 8,800 SPG points. There would be some adjustments later on, however, after my interesting stay at the Le Meridien Angkor!

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Cambodia April 2012 - Admirals Club SFO And American Airlines 1023 First Class (SFO-LAX)

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I arrived at San Francisco International Airport approximately two hours prior to departure and was checked in fairly quickly via the priority line. Luggage was checked all the way through to Phnom Penh amazingly... although I was slightly skeptical that it would actually arrive there as promised. Early Wednesday afternoon security was a breeze, and I was soon airside in the beautiful new Terminal 2.

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The new Admirals Club was one of the nicer American lounges I've been to. Certainly the entrance, lined with trees and expansive views of the runway, made for a calming atmosphere in a typically bustling airport. The food and drink selection, however, were fairly limited - unless you were willing to pay for an actual meal in the dining area. There were complimentary cookies, fruits, soft drinks, and coffee on display. I did receive a drink voucher, which I traded in for a large bottle of water at the bar. A couple of computers for guest use were located by the large windows.

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After about an hour in the lounge, I was getting quite bored, so I grabbed my stuff and sauntered over to the departing gate. The facilities in Terminal 2 are actually very good, with plenty of restaurants and seating all around the open atrium. Boarding started soon afterwards.

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American Airlines 1023
Boeing 737-800
San Francisco (SFO) - Los Angeles (LAX)
Wednesday March 28, 2012
Departure: 4:40 PM (scheduled) / 4:32 PM (actual)
Arrival: 6:00 PM (scheduled) / 5:49 AM (actual)
Duration: 1h 20m (scheduled) / 1h 17m (actual)
Seat: 4A (First)

The first class seats on this 737-800 were definitely showing some wear and tear, and but it was more than comfortable for the quick hop down to LAX. Drinks were served soon after take-off, and the rest of the flight went very smoothly, with not even a hint of turbulence. Compared to the SFO-LAX first class service on United, however, I felt like the snacks selection on American was fairly lacking. While United offered a large basket filled with a wide range of options for passengers to choose from, from chips to cookies to fruits, the only thing American offered were Biscoff cookies (which were delicious as always).

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As soon as we hit our cruising altitude, it felt like we were already starting our descent into Los Angeles. After a perfect landing, we arrived at the gate more than ten minutes ahead of schedule. First class passengers were allowed to deplane first, though I stayed behind and snapped a few more pictures.

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With an almost eight-hour layover at LAX, I took my sweet time transferring from Terminal 4 to Tom Bradley International Terminal, browsing shops and visiting lounges along the way.

Cambodia April 2012 - Admirals Club LAX and OneWorld Business Class Lounge LAX

After deplaning, it was already after 6:00 pm. However, with a nearly eight-hour layover at LAX, I decided to take a quick peek inside the Admirals Club Lounge before heading over to the International Terminal. Upon entering, I showed my onward boarding pass, to which the agent remarked, "you do know your flight is in another terminal right?" I explained that I just wanted to take a look around, and she happily directed me to the stairs going up to the main lounge area.

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At the top of the stairs was an official entrance with several counters. I asked one of the agents where I should go, and she gave me a quick rundown of the general layout. This was definitely one of the larger lounges I've been to in the States, and very nicely designed I must say, with high vaulted ceilings, plenty of natural night, and large windows overlooking the tarmac. There were several areas in the lounge, and many more I didn't even really get to explore. The wonderful thing was that it never got too crowded, which I feel tends to happen a lot at lounges within the U.S.

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However, food selection was a bare minimum, with some snack mixes, cookies, and fruit. Complimentary soda, juice, and water were also available. There was a full bar, but alcoholic drinks and meal orders cost extra, of course. I chilled for a bit, played with the free WiFi, and decided to head out so I could make my way over to the International Terminal.

Checking in was quick and painless, and the agent reminded me of where the OneWorld Lounge was located. The security line was long, but I had hours to spare so it wasn't an issue. Once through, however, it became glaringly obvious how much of a dump Tom Bradley International Terminal was. Granted, there were tons of construction going on for the massive renovation effort that will vastly improve airside services by 2014... but until then, there are virtually no restaurants or shops in the entire terminal.

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The OneWorld Lounge is located on the 5th floor. After exiting the elevator, I handed over my boarding pass for an entry stamp, and passed through the business area access doors. While the lounge is actually of decent size, the fact that all OneWorld airlines funnels its premium passengers here creates a very crowded environment that can be far from relaxing. If multiple flights are leaving within a short amount of time, it can be difficult to even find a place to sit.

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Being around dinnertime, I decided to check out the food selection in the dining area. There was a small salad bar, and a couple of decent hot dishes to choose from. I knew there would a full dinner service on the flight despite the late departure, so I only tried a small sample of each to tide me over until then. There were also many bottles of wine available for self-service, and a wide array of beers and beverages.

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The entire lounge is a long, narrow corridor, with a larger open space towards the very end. Along the corridor are separate zones with different functions, including a seating area near the entrance,a dining area, a business area with tons of computers for guest use, and a nice looking bar at the end. Restrooms and showers are located further down a hallway next to the bar area. I decided to take quick shower and remove my contacts prior to the long flight, which is always a good idea. There were Molton Brown bath products for guest use, and stacks of wrapped clean towels as well.

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Afterwards, I used a computer in the business area to check my email, then grabbed a few more drinks before heading out to Gate 120 around 12:00 midnight. Overall, the OneWorld Lounge at LAX is nicely designed with decent food offerings and great amenities. However, it is a bit too small considering the number of airlines that utilize the facilities.

Cambodia April 2012 - Cathay Pacific 881 New Business Class (LAX-HKG)

The gate area was packed by the time I got there. I decided not to scrounge for a seat and just found some space on the floor against the wall. Boarding soon commenced, but it was evident by the slow-moving process that we would end up departing slightly behind schedule. First and business class were eventually called, and I soon entered the aircraft.

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Cathay Pacific 881
Boeing 777-300ER (77D)
Los Angeles (LAX) - Hong Kong (HKG)
Thursday March 29, 2012
Departure: 1:30 AM (scheduled) / 1:45 AM (actual)
Arrival: 7:15 AM (scheduled) / 7:43 AM (actual)
Duration: 14h 45m (scheduled) / 14h 58m (actual)
Seat: 11A (Business)

Upon first look, the new Cathay Pacific Business Class was simply fantastic. I suppose most business class seats these days have gone the way of lie-flats and improved privacy... but even by those standards, they were amazingly well thought out. I had chosen my seat far in advance, and was able to snag 11A in the first row of the mini-cabin up front. With only room for eight in the small cabin and suite-like privacy for each passenger, it almost felt like being in first class!

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I quickly noticed how many different storage cabinets there were all around the seat, enough to hold virtually all of your personal items. Small touches like a convenient vanity mirror, headphone hanger, shoe cupboard, and multiple electronics charging plugs really showed the level of attention that was paid to designing the new seats. I also thought the rubbery surface on the side desk was a great solution to prevent items from sliding around during takeoff and landing.

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A pre-flight drink was offered, and I decided to go with orange juice first. Take-off was approximately 15 minutes late, and champagne (Champagne Deutz, Brut Classic) along with warm nuts were served soon after. Amenity kits and menus were distributed and orders were taken, with a late supper service immediately following. It was almost 2:30 am local time by then and I wasn't terribly hungry, but I was determined to get the full Cathay Pacific dining experience :)

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Mains included a choice between pine nuts crusted ling cod and stir-fried beef - I went with the cod. Now I've read plenty of complaints regarding Cathay Pacific's Business Class food, so I was pleasantly surprised when everything turned out to be delicious. Perhaps they've improved their catering significantly along with the upgraded seats, or maybe I was just lucky. The roasted duck breast on the salad was tender and moist, while the cod was cooked perfectly and well-seasoned. The garlic bread was yummy as always.

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Afterwards, the cheese, fruit, and dessert courses were served together, which was fine. I'm typically a fan of crème brûlée, but the toasted sesame crème brûlée tart was just alright... somehow without the burnt crust, it just wasn't the same. A decadent praline and some tea ended the excellent supper service.

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Brilliant so far... Really enjoying it!

The new terminal at SFO looks lovely... A VAST improvement in terms of terminal and Admirals Club, compared to the old one...

Cambodia April 2012 - Cathay Pacific 881 New Business Class (LAX-HKG) - Continued

I put the seat down fully flat to try to get a few hours of sleep, and while Cathay doesn't provide a mattress pad to smooth out the slight bumps, it was still extremely comfortable for a business class bed. The duvet and pillow were clean and cushy. I got in a good five or six hours of sleep, which is always amazing for me on a plane since I'm a light sleeper. When I got up, I was actually feeling a little hungry, so I put my seat back up and ordered the wonton noodle soup, which was perfect for my craving. Afterward, I also ordered some ice cream to finish off the snack. Not feeling too sleepy, I played around with Studio CX and watched the movie 50/50 (which was actually quite moving) before breakfast service began.

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Breakfast started off with fresh fruit, yogurt, and cereal, followed by a delicious mango smoothie. For the main, I decided to go with the lighter option of surf clam and mushroom congee with pork and shrimp bun, which were all outstanding. With the headwinds going strong, we still have a few more hours of flight time left, during which I watched a few interesting documentaries on Studio CX. Arrival was almost half an hour late, but I wasn't in a rush since I had a nearly seven-hour layover in Hong Kong.

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Overall, I was extremely impressed with the Cathay Pacific Business Class. I haven't really discussed the service aspects of this flight, but let's just say I was very surprised at how engaged and proactive each of the flight attendants were. If you read my previous trip report covering Cathay Pacific's First Class, you'll remember how disappointed I was with my experience. That was definitely not the case here as drinks were consistently topped off without having to press the call button and plates were cleared promptly. Not only that, the flight attendants were extremely friendly, helpful, and just exuded an approachable vibe that I really appreciated. In fact, I stayed on the plane for a few minutes after the flight just to fill out a survey complimenting the crew for their hard work. This more than made up for my previous bad experience, and I certainly hope to revisit the new Cathay Pacific Business Class sometime soon!

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Looking forward to the rest! Just FYI, house alcohol (i.e. the cheap stuff) is free at Admirals Club. It's definitely not the best, but when you just need a drink, it'll do just fine.

Nice report so far. Looking forward to the rest of it.


It's been a few years since I was last in SFO. Love the new look of it. Really love the new Admirals Club. too bad I don't have access anymore.

Also, the J seats on CX are setup in such a way that they don't seem to have a good view out the window unless you get up from your seat and lean really far forward. I suppose this is not an uncommon issue these days with the way a lot of the J seats are set at an angle to the side of the airplane.

BingBongBoy: Thanks! I've never been to the old Admirals Club at SFO so I can't make a comparison, but the new one is very nice indeed. Just wish they had some more food options.

harrison1186: I actually had no idea the house alcohol was free. I believe the drink voucher they gave me could be used for an alcoholic drink, but I just got a large bottle of water instead :p

jsmeeker: The CX J seats are a little far from window, but at the very least you can lean forward easily and look out. The old seats required you to literally break your neck to look outside!

The old Admiral's Club at SFO was very cramped and crowded.

These new CX J seats look much better than the old ones. And to think how cool I thought the old ones looked. Until I saw a cabin full of them. Then it didn't look as special.

Nice trip report, so far, thanks.

Great report so far! Sounds like service in business is better than first?

How did you reserve a seat in row 11 on CX? I have a flight coming up and can't seem to access the seats online.

Thanks for the comments.
hqly2001, I think it was probably just a fluke in CX F last year. I've read many trip reports where service in F was fantastic... so I'm guessing I just had bad luck unfortunately :( But the service I had in J this time was amazing!

ORDinaryJoe, I reserved my seat on Cathay's website. Under Manage My Booking, you can select your seat from 180 days until 55 hours prior to your flight departure. Try to reserve it 180 days out because most of the seats were wide open.