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• Andaz London Liverpool Street
• Eurostar Leisure Select
• Munich Sofitel Bayerpost
• Budapest Intercontinental
• Mercure Garmisch-Partenkirchen
• Alphotel Ettal
• 4 points by Sheraton Lenggries
• Schloss Fuschl
• Renaissance Imperial Riding School Vienna
• BMI business class VIE-LHR
• Sofitel LHR

We started our trip using First Great Western, First Class into London Paddington. Our carriage was empty as per usual and we enjoyed our packed breakfast of egg and smoked salmon rolls, fruit salad and bucks fizz, as well as the complementary snacks provided by the train crew.



Andaz Liverpool Street
We spent the first night at the Andaz (simple Circle line journey) where we were upgraded to a large King room (we booked the Queen room). We had managed to get a good rate using the Andaz5 code. We decided the best way to make use of this given that we had to rise early for the Eurostar was to order a bottle of sauvignon blanc (room service) to use the $50 credit to accompany a dim sum takeaway from Ping Pong (just down the road). The entire dinner cost us around £20 (we also had a £10 voucher for the dim sum!). Our tasty diamond amenity was a small banana cheesecake (served in a kind of shot glass) and 2 pieces of chocolate brownie.







Eurostar Leisure Select

We had been supposed to stay at the Sofitel Heathrow instead of in the Andaz and then fly to Budapest with BA. Due to the uncertainty over the flights (in the end these flights were run by jet2) we decided to travel with Eurostar. We had booked for the 8:57 train through DB but due to a tight connection in Brussels we decided to try to get the 7:57. So in the morning we got a taxi over to St Pancras (can’t remember the price but around £10) and luckily were able to get on the earlier train. We had 1st class through tickets to Cologne so were in Leisure Select (booked via DB, first Class to Cologne is less than first class to Brussels booked via Eurostar). There were only about 4 people in our carriage so we had good service throughout and managed to get a table for 4 between the 2 of us.

The choices for breakfast were omelette with poached salmon with tomato and sauté potatoes or a cheese and meat plate. We both chose the omelette and also got yoghurt, orange juice, a bread roll and croissant. The omelette was ok although there was very little salmon. We also had hot drinks and requested champagne. This (Nicolas Feuillatte) was served with a smile but it was obvious the host thought it was a bit cheeky. After arrival in Brussels we sat outside until our connection and then travelled to Cologne by ICE.


It's quite cool being able to see out of the front of the train past the driver!

Sofitel Munich

After lunch by the Rhine, we caught our next connection to Munich. This was uneventful and we arrived on time. In Munich, we stayed at the Sofitel Bayerpost right next to the station. Now, we love this hotel, especially the basement pool but the hotel is not generous. Last time we stayed, we had a nice although standard room which apparently had a problem with a sink pipe leaking to the room below. We got to our room one night to find it locked. After enquiring at reception we were asked to move to “a very nice room” which happened to be the slightly smaller room next door. A member of staff held open the door whilst we moved 3 weeks’ worth of luggage between the 2 rooms. In England, we would have expected either a room upgrade of a gift from the hotel to say sorry for the inconvenience but we got nothing. This time we stayed on the Women are Magnifique package having booked a Junior Suite. This package includes 50 EUR voucher for extras in the hotel (we had a nice meal in Sophie’s Bistro), champagne welcome drink in the bar and a room upgrade when available. As a Gold A-club member, I should receive a welcome drink and a room upgrade if available. Well, surprise surprise, even though I had checked if there were suites available before the morning before we got the train to Munich, we were told that there were no room upgrades available (I can’t believe they sold their suite and opera suites). We also only received one drink each, whereas I would have expected 2 when gold status was taken into account. Anyway, the room was nice – a split level suite (not really a Junior Suite) with living room and guest toilet downstairs and bathroom and shower room upstairs. There was no welcome gift but we did have complementary water. I thought it was a little strange not to have a bath, but it suited us as we prefer showers.




view from our suite over the station


stairs between bedroom and seating area



Railjet

The next day we caught the Railjet (OBB but again booked via DB) to Budapest. We were travelling in Premium Class and so got a bay for ourselves, and unlimited drinks (including Prosecco) and snacks throughout the journey (such as an Asian greens salad with sesame). The leather seats recline and all in all it is a very civilised way to travel and my favourite train so far.




one of the snacks served

Intercontinental Budapest

Unfortunately due to the severe flooding in Hungary, the train ran around 20 minutes late but when we arrived in Budapest, the driver from the Intercontinental was waiting for us and took us to the hotel (7000 HUF=25EUR pre-booked via hotel). We had got a good rate at the IC through Friends and Family rate (114 EUR + tax per night) for a river view suite with club access (when taking into account our Ambassador upgrade). The room was better than I had expected - a largish lounge with the best possible view of the Danube and chain bridge and a nice enough bedroom. The bathroom was very small and unfortunately only had a shower over the bath. The Ambassador welcome gift was a box of 3 cherry chocolates and a fruit plate containing 2 apples and an orange. The chocolates were nice but the fruit plate a little uninspiring.




view from our suite







We went straight away to the club lounge to take advantage of the final hour of cocktails and food. There was the usual range of drinks available including Hungarian ‘champagne,’ which we thought was better (certainly drier) than Prosecco. The food selection varied from night to night but we found there was always enough for dinner – a selection of nibbles, bread, cheeses, crudités, canapés, sweets and some hot dishes, such as cooked chicken and fish or schnitzels. The staff were very friendly in the lounge and there were 2 computers for internet access or free Wi-Fi. During the day there were a few snacks available (tortilla chips, pretzel sticks, small macaroons and other cakes) and soft drinks. Breakfast in the lounge was reasonable – not as good as the IC Park Lane but better than some others, with a full continental breakfast plus some hot things, such as boiled and scrambled eggs, bacon, sausages and American pancakes. During our 4 night stay we didn’t buy any food, and only bought a few drinks when out and about, so our rate turned out to be fully inclusive.

We really liked Budapest and spent most of the time strolling around the city looking at the view (luckily it was hot and sunny). One night we took a horse and carriage ride around Buda (10,000 HUF for 1 hour) which was a nice way to spend an evening. On 2 days we used the hotel spa – the first day having a couple’s massage (50 minute massage, then 30 minutes to have a bath and relax with the fresh fruit in the couple’s suite. I think this was 24000 HUF (around £80). On the second day one of us had a 70 min hot stone massage (22500 HUF) and a pedicure (7000 HUF) whilst the other of us had a Queen of Hungary ritual (21000 HUF). All the treatments were very good (although be warned you may be asked to be naked) but the star treatment was the Queen of Hungary ritual. This was 150 minutes of bliss, starting with a body exfoliation and a body mud mask. After being wrapped up to cook in the mud, a facial massage was given (I fell asleep). Then a quick shower and an hour of hot stone massage. One of the best and best value treatments I have ever had. We used the gym at the hotel which was good enough and nice to have a fridge of water in the room, but didn’t get round to using the wet spa facilities. On our last day we took the underground to one of the parks to use the Szechenyi spa. The organisation here was rubbish and there was a long wait to get in, but we had never seen a spa like it. Endless pools and saunas in a beautiful (if slightly faded) palace. Be careful of some of the saunas – we often use 90°C saunas but this was much hotter and was too hot to walk into without flip-flops really.

Mercure Garmisch Partenkirchen

So, eventually we had to leave Budapest, which was a bit sad but we had another journey on the Railjet to look forward to. Transfer to the railway station (only 3000 HUF this time, all the cars are Mercedes Benz E-Class and new) from the hotel for the morning train to Munich. The service on this train was a little better than on the first RJ journey – the hostess was very friendly and she even left us a whole bottle of Prosecco at one point. We arrived on time in Munich, had a brief drink in the Intercity hotel next to the station and then caught the local train down to Garmisch Partenkirchen, using a Bayern Night ticket (EUR20 for the 2 of us). We were staying at the Mercure in GP which was better than we had expected but nothing special. A taxi from the station cost around 7 euros. It was very hot the day we arrived in GP – the train down had no air conditioning – and so we went straight into the hotel pool on arrival. This was quite nice, empty and cool so just what we wanted. Breakfast at the Mercure was much better than expected – pretty much everything you could wish for and would expect in Bavaria.


standard room




beautiful views in GP

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We had pre-booked (and pre-paid) a hire car in GP – a VW Eos (convertible). We booked this in October (travel in June) at a reasonable rate through A-club. On arrival at Europcar in GP, we were told there was no record of this booking because earlier this year the company had changed owners and all previous bookings were inaccessible. However, after a bit of conversation, the nice people at Europcar got on the phone and managed to get us a Mercedes SLK convertible delivered from Munich airport. It meant waiting around for 2-3 hours but was worth it to get a superior car. This car was superb – black, new and with every imaginary convenience including hairdryers built into the headrests! Even on a cool day with spots of rain we were very comfortable with the roof down. Just as well, as the weather was turning wet. Boot space is a bit limited though and we had a moment of panic before finally squeezing our two suitcases in the back.



Garmisch Partenkirchen to Ettal (Oberammergau Passionplay)

Our next stop was in Ettal, where we were staying for 2 nights in order to see the Passionplay in Oberammergau. We stayed at the Alphotel Ettal and were very impressed. The room was what we expected (pictures on website accurate), but the service was so friendly. There was a nice spa with 2 saunas (60 and 90°C), cold plunge pool, steam room and great pool with colour changing lights (Friday and Tuesday evening skinny dipping). There was also a small gym which was ok but a bit limited (2 bikes, 1 cross trainer, 1 step machine). We ate in the hotel restaurant one evening and the food was really good – the most tender venison ever. We had 2 courses each and a bottle of wine and it came to only 40 euros. We also had laundry done (good value at 20 euros for quite a lot) and a pedicure which was ok but not great. We would definitely return to the hotel, especially when it has such reasonable prices. It was nice to fall asleep with the windows to the balcony open and to the sound of nothing but cow bells.

We have mixed feelings about the Passionplay. We got to Oberammergau at around 1pm (it starts at 2:30) and parked with no problem. We then got a rickshaw to the theatre and found a cafe for bratwurst, apple strudel, beer and prosecco. Prices were surprisingly reasonable. The Passionplay itself was long-winded (6 hours and it could have easily been only 4 hours) and the seats are very uncomfortable. We were glad we saw it, although being atheists it maybe did not have the meaning to us as much as to other people. It is a spectacle (although I have to admit I fell asleep during one of the longer spoken German sections. The singing was fantastic but I could not imagine sitting through another performance. For sure, go once but take a cushion, blankets and drinking alcohol may help the time pass. The second half in particular felt drawn out and we were glad when it ended.

Ettal to Lenggries, 4 Points by Sheraton Hotel

The drive to Lenggries from Ettal is quite short but very nice. A short Autobahn section to try out the SLK and beautiful scenery. The hotel in Lenggries was easy to find and the service was very good. We were given a map of the area, newspaper vouchers (although only German news available) and a friendly welcome. We decided to take the Platinum gift of a bottle of white wine and had it in the restaurant with dinner. Dinner was good – an amuse bouche of gazpacho, we then had starters of trio of salmon and scallops in wild-garlic soup and mains of roast lamb and a selection of fish. The food was a little salty but very good quality. We were upgraded to a suite (we booked a standard room at 95 euros per night B+B). The suite was large with a really good balcony but very Bavarian in style. To us it seemed as if it had been themed (it reminded us slightly of the ‘Chinese’ hotel in Phantasialand in being so over-the-top) but maybe it is actually true Bavarian. It was not at all to our taste but we realised that the suite was a generous upgrade and many people would like it. We also knew in advance that the hotel was in the traditional style and so were not too surprised. Breakfast was also good at the hotel but the spa was a bit disappointing (and compulsory naked) and the basement where the spa was had the strangest smell. We enjoyed using the skittles alley in the adjoining building and the gym was small but reasonable (2 treadmills, 2 bikes, a few weights). Unfortunately Wi-Fi was not available in room and the in room wired internet did not work. As this is an advertised Platinum benefit I was disappointed by this and it was annoying to have to go down to the lobby to get internet access. Lenggries is a quiet village but the scenery is beautiful and we enjoyed going to the Hochseilgarten Isarwinkel (high wire course) and Bad Tölz. The weather wasn’t grear but all in all we would return to this hotel and the area, probably in winter to go skiing.











Schloss Fuschl

We then drove to Lake Fuschl by Salzburg via Chiemsee. We took a long round trip on the lake and then stopped off to see the extravagance of Ludwig’s castle, modelled on Versailles. If we hadn’t stopped I think the journey would have taken around 2 hours, mostly fast Autobahn, so this was an easy trip. Schloss Fuschl was easy to find (sign posted from 3km away) and we were warmly welcomed. We had booked a standard room on the pre-paid internet rate which is half board, and were upgraded to a Junior Suite. This room was really nice – a good sized sleeping and living area with a gorgeous bathroom and large dressing area. We chose the bottle of wine as a welcome gift (it was the same bottle as we got at the 4 points in Lenggries) and there was also a nice fruit basket in the room. The free minibar included water, fruit juice, beer, coke and diet coke.















view from our balcony





Dinner the first 2 nights was in the Imperial restaurant and the third night in the Schloss restaurant, where breakfast was also served. The kitchen had prepared a special menu for us (we have a few dietary requirements) and the food was very good quality and presented well. Extras were pricy (each night we spent around 80-100 Euros on drinks and service) but worth it. As a note, they only serve Austrian wines and Champagne. The spa was one of the best I have seen and we often had it to ourselves. There were experience showers, a cool (60°C) sauna, a steam room and in the ladies area a hot aroma-sauna. The pool had a number of massage jets although it was a little cool unless you were actually swimming. There were also a number of heated loungers (lancomiums) with different colour lights. We had massages here which were ok but not great – I especially found that the massage bed was very uncomfortable and it was the first time I haven’t really enjoyed a treatment. This was very disappointing as the treatments are quite expensive (90-110 euros for an hour massage). We didn’t have great weather so spent a lot of time in the hotel and spa but this was not a problem. Had we had more sun, it would have been wonderful to swim in the lake and hire a boat, but it’s always good to have something to go back for. The one sunny day we did have we played the 9-hole golf course (quite challenging) and went for a drive to Wolfgangsee. Here you have to go on the Sommer-Rodelbahn, a toboggan run which goes high up the mountain and has great views. We will definitely return to Schloss Fuschl, although it is too expensive for us unless we have platinum SPG status. Our bill was around £1600 for 3 nights taking everything into account, although we probably wouldn’t have a spa treatment here again. The service was impeccable, the food some of the best we have had and the location unable to be beaten.


Imperial Riding School Vienna

We sadly departed Fuschlsee to drop the car back in Freilassing (it was cheaper to take the car back to Germany) and then catch the S-bahn to Salzburg. We spent a couple of very wet hours here (and were not overly keen on the city) before settling back into Premium Class on the Railjet to Vienna. The service on this RJ was quite cold and unfriendly but Premium Class is still definitely the only option – the seats are so comfortable. On arrival in Vienna we got the U-bahn to our hotel, the Imperial Riding School Renaissance hotel. This was a bit of a come down from Schloss Fuschl. We had got a great rate through an Ebay voucher from Cultuzz for 3 nights in a junior suite with club access, a bottle of champagne and fresh fruit for £240. The room was quite large but dated and the bathroom was one of the worst of the trip, mainly just from age. We had wanted one of the newer Imperial suites but there were none available. Had I realised the age of the room we got I would have voluntary down-graded to an Imperial Club room, but I didn’t want to change things after we had unpacked.









The Marriott Renaissance was ok and club usually had enough for a meal in the evening. I was pleasantly surprised to see sparkling wine available and breakfast was reasonable. We had a problem with the champagne as part of our package. When we got to our room it was sekt not champagne. We complained and were told it was a translation problem but in England champagne was the word used for sparkling wine. After asking to see the manager, we explained that it is illegal to advertise wine as champagne unless it is from the Champagne region of France. The manager agreed, went to check our reservation and about 10 minutes later a bottle of Piper-Heidsieck was delivered to the room. We enjoyed our time in Vienna (our second visit to the city) and had managed to get tickets for the Spanish Riding School, which was really good. We would strongly recommend a visit here, to see these strong and beautiful animals. The show was only spoilt by a girl sitting on her mum’s lap next to us saying “Mummy. When are they going to do tricks. You said the horses did tricks” throughout the whole performance!

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BMI business class VIE-LHR

So the final stage of our trip was the flight home. We had booked a transfer from the hotel but then found that the S-bahn station next to the hotel ran direct to the airport, so we used this cheaper option instead. Check-in for BMI was not obvious. In the end we asked and were told to use Austrian Airlines check-in facility. Our online check-in for the flight had not completed properly – I had put in the wrong date of the passport validity but it wouldn’t let me go back to change it. However, at the airport this was sorted out and we got the seats we wanted (row 2). Passport control was quick and then we went to the lounge (upstairs). This was ok, a reasonable selection of drink but no food that I noticed (we arrived at around 10am). We left 50 minutes to get through security at the gate on the advice of the hostess in the lounge, although it only took maybe 5 minutes at the time we were there. Unfortunately we were bussed to the gate and as the plane wasn’t full, had to wait for everyone to get onto the bus before leaving. Eventually we got to our seats and settled in, watching one passenger upgrade himself to sit next to his wife who was in business. CC ignored this and actually served him a full meal and drinks. We were offered a choice of magazines before take-off, which was maybe 10 minutes late. Service started when the fasten seat-belts sign was taken off, but no special meals had been loaded, although we had requested non-dairy meals. Luckily, one choice was roast chicken and vegetables with potatoes, so no problem there!



This was our first BMI flight and I was disappointed that there was no champagne available (we usually fly BA Club Europe when we take full advantage of the complementary champagne). We were offered wine though which was ok. The flight passed quickly and we landed at Heathrow 20 minutes early before sitting at the gate for 5-10 minutes. I was waiting for the fasten seatbelts sign to switch off to pop to the loo, and was surprised to have one member of the CC say “too much wine?” to me as I came out. I didn’t feel this was necessary (esp. as I had only had 1 ½ small bottles) and felt a bit insulted. We would fly BMI again (we are doing in September due to the miles from the credit card) but preferred the service of BA. The cabin crew in BA seem more friendly and professional, and of course you get champagne and use of T5 if flying out of Heathrow.

Sofitel LHR T5

Our final night away was in the Sofitel Heathrow. We had booked a prestige suite, and as a gold card member I asked if there was an upgrade available. For the first time, we got an upgrade at a Sofitel, and ended up in one of the Royal Suites. I’m not sure how different these are to a prestige suite (the second bedroom was locked) but the suite was really nice and it’s great being able to see planes on the final approach/just taking off (changed during our stay).






free minibar


one of the best showers I've ever seen


TV over bath







The suites at the Sofitel offer free minibar (including 1 mini bottle of Moet), a few snacks and access to the club. We were disappointed by the club – only one white wine (Chablis) available, no sparkling, and very little food. We were given a selection of canapés, but these were tiny and between 2 of us consisted of an espresso cup of gazpacho, some foie gras (not eaten due to dairy allergy and ethics) and another small snack I can’t remember. Not enough for a meal, which we had hoped we would get when we booked the room (might not have bothered with the lounge access if we had known we would then have to buy dinner). We had room service which was ok and nice not to have to pay a tray charge. We also used the spa during our stay (free due to staying in a suite) which is really nice and we had it to ourselves. I had a massage and facial which was really good and the prices aren’t bad for the location. Breakfast the next morning in Brasserie Rouge was good – high quality and a reasonable choice but served a la carte, not buffet.

We then got the Heathrow Express into Paddington, went to Metro Golf in Sheldon Square which I would recommend to anyone with time to spare at the station – prices are really good on weekday mornings (£10/hr), a little steep at weekends and in the evenings (£40/hr). Metro Golf works a little like a driving range but you actually play a course, with large screens in front of you and tracking of your ball. It’s great fun and good practise for regular or occasional golfers (clubs free to hire).


All in all, a great holiday. Let me know what you think of the TR - it's only my second one.

Vaclav

Thank you for such a detailed TR written in very readable and impeccable English and also all the beautiful pictures. I'd love to visit southern Germany and Austria again. I never seem to have enough of it. I am glad that you had an enjoyable holiday 'in style' and shared your experience here on flyertalk. ^

Bretteee

Great report. Thanks.

1. I have a better place in Austria to recommend. Schloss Hotel in Velden Am Worthersee. The warmest lake in Austria and swimmable temperature wise. Also the sunniest in Karten Southern Austria.
2. I stayed at the Budapest Intercontinental in 1972. I feel old.......