to PacNW for SeaDoo etc. (last August)
0812 UA 171 BOS SFO 0600 0930 752 2A Ch9^ Empower:td:
The choices were: $50 cab ride with a company I don't trust; $239++ at the Hilton; or get to the airport before public trans stopped and hang out for 5 hours. After a desperate look at Hotwire and Priceline, I chose the last option. There was a bunch of desk work to do, so the time was well spent, though sitting in a rocker and using my carry-on as a desk was not ideal; plus I did nod off over the computer once or twice. The airport is reasonably buzzful all night, and I wonder why there isn't a bar or cheap diner handy. After coming to a natural stopping place in my work, I got my BPs, went through security (two bottles of Bacon Salt didn't elicit any interest; I'd taken the precaution of putting them in the outside part of the bag for easy access if necessary) in mere moments, and camped out outside the RCC for the wireless access. When the club opened I didn't bother to go in, staying put until boarding. Blended in right at the back of Zone 1, despite the open and inviting red lane. Periodic testy announcements during boarding about keeping the aisles clear, getting seated promptly, and there being no extra seats to switch to, so don't even try. And that 65% of the flight had international connections, which I thought remarkable. A pleasant cabin crew who got me Courvoisier whenever I wanted, which was but thrice. This aircraft featured particularly fuzzy audio, which was remedied by turning up the volume a couple notches louder than normal. Channel 9 was available, as was the choice of a spinach, artichoke, and cheese omelet or the fruit plate. I had a double dose of snooze, thanks to my Channel 9 lullaby and the periodic ingestion of calming liquids. A kiss landing. We got in a little early, so I had plenty of time at the club to do e-mail and marvel at the fragrance of the Renewal Lounge. Got to the gate in the midst of boarding, but as others were still using the red lane, I did as well. UA 322 SFO SEA 1015 1213 752 2D Ch9^ Empower:td: Same gate; same aircraft; same audio. I found myself on the opposite side, so there was no opportunity to self-sight. The portly gent next to me kept texting throughout the whole trip, hiding his PDA whenever the flight attendant went by. The behavior seemed juvenile and addicted, but he didn't get us all killed. When I fell asleep he was at it; when I woke, at final approach, he was still doing it. I shake my head. My buddies met me with a list of lunch places, including the option of trying something new, which I voted for. This turned to be a building south of Tacoma with the tantalizing word BARBECUE painted in fading letters; I'd inquired about it before, and they'd passed by it hundreds of times, but nobody in our acquaintance had ever tried it. The Barbecue Inn, it turns out, has indeed been there a long time, and is more a Barbecue Bar than anything else. Not a problem, some really good food comes out of really divey places that nobody has ever heard of. We were welcomed warmly into a pretty empty room whose obvious real purpose was to dispense ardent spirits. Of which I had an amber ale, Annie had iced tea, and Harry H2O, hold the straw. I cleverly put my elbows on the table at the exact same time that Annie was using it to help her sit down, and the table tipped a bit, and her iced tea went rocketing into space. Luckily my beer was intact. She had a smoked beef sandwich, which she pronounced good; Harry's pulled pork was, he opined, undersmoked if at all. As it was my turn to treat, I got the fanciest thing on the menu, the ribs and chicken quarter (dark or light) combo. Two quite meaty, quite tender ribs, the smoke not apparent, but fresh meat and pretty tasty. The chicken was smokier but still mild - juicy, tender, and also fresh. The cook came out to check on us - not a grizzled old vet but rather a kid who looked just out of his teens. He seemed proud of his work and pointed out the pork melted in your mouth. I agreed. Sauces on the side. The extra-spicy was mildly sweet with ketchup in the background, the heat coming from a healthy dose of chile powder. It wasn't bad, but the meat didn't benefit much from it, so I used it sparingly. Every lunch comes with a side: cole slaw was a bit too sweet for my taste, but not too gooey, so that was points in its favor; it was also fresh cabbage, reasonably fresh cut, reasonably freshly made. Black-eyed peas appeared to come out of a can. Harry hypothesized that at one time it had had a piece of pork dragged through it, but I was unable to detect any. My fries ordered well done were well-done fries done pretty well - a commercial product but nice and crisp; the extra hot sauce with its not overwhelming sweetness helped. Back to the house for a rest, then the bus to the park, a speedy and convenient trip, saving a fortune in parking and a lot of rush-hour annoyance. At Safeco we saw a dandy 13 1/2 inning shutout between the White Sox and the Mariners. In the middle of this gem, we went out for dinner, Harry getting a burger with garlic fries, and myself trotting over to Ivar's for clams and chips well done. His burger was big, and his fries impressively garlicked. My clam strips were one notch below Ho Jo's, with an aroma that reminded me of Snow's minced and an overthick breading. My chips were from the same foodservice pack as Harry's, but the well doneness helped a little. I dipped the ends of a couple in his garlic, and that was plenty of garlic for me. In the bottom of the 14th, with two on, Griffey came up to pinch hit for Rob Johnson, who had hit the rocket to Kotsay in I think the 8th that almost made the extra innings unnecessary. Willie the seating host pointed out that there wasn't much in the catching department for inning 15; I said that this was an obvious win it or lose it on Griffey move, and to counter it the Sox should have him walked - a suggestion countered by the assertion from the peanut gallery that one should never give a free pass to a .230 hitter, no matter his lineage or history. Whereupon the man lined one into the right field corner scoring Adrian Beltre, and that was that - and we poured out onto the street after a nearly 4 hr game that had started out like a 1.5 hr one. Impressive loading of the public bus: the dispatcher got on and, after giving standees the opportunity of standing or catching the next bus in moments, sent us on our way. |
Breakfast at the Mandolin Cafe, one of many funky places
in the area that has free wi-fi: Bourbon walnut pie, rather like pecan pie, only with walnuts, flavored with just a tiny whiff of whiskey. This was matched well by a pale ale that I'd not heard of (Full Sail was on draft but was off) but that was pretty decent. Then to the Ram: Harry, instead of his usual burger, got a Cobb, which seemed kind of normal; Annie, instead of her usual burger, got a meatloaf sandwich, which came topped with fried onion strings: a good sandwich. My surf and turf, an 8-oz sirloin, medium-rare as or... whoops, I asked for extra rare but didn't get it, plus three rather overheavily panko-crusted shrimp, was decent. I substituted Ram chips for the normal potato. A pint of porter, chocolaty and rich, was nice but not substantial. I should have had the 1-lb burger, as after all this I was still on the peckish side. I called over the little blonde waitress and asked for a supplemental order: the 8-oz burger, rare, followed by a skinny IPA. I had thought of ordering a skinny blonde but thought she might be insulted. The burger was fine and came with more Ram chips (thick-cut house-made crisps); the IPA was moderately hopped but well balanced. That was finally enough food, so we went back to the house for a snooze. I was wakened abruptly with the news that it was time for the bus again. Tonight, the Yankees, with C. C. Sabathia matched against some guy named Ian Snell. Perhaps the public sensed what was going to happen, as the park wasn't stuffed full. Harry had high hopes for this series. Wrong-o. Snell got the visitors out in the first, with the particularly propitious beginning of striking out Jeter; but it was downhill from there. Carnage was the word that came to mind. When it became 6-0, Harry and I left Annie behind and went off to drown our sorrows. I had a Manny's pale ale, a tolerable brew, not my first choice but what was at the stand where we got Annie a hot dog; Harry had a Chivas. By the time we got back to our seats (lovely ones on the Terrace level), the score had ballooned to 9-1. The Mariners' only run came from some rookie kid's first major league hit, an impressive dinger but way too little way too late. The kid had just been called up because Adrian Beltre had sustained some sort of ouchish damage in the previous night's game. The game not holding our full attention, Harry and I went wandering down to the first level, where the sushi parlor, about to close up, sold me a Full Sail pale ale (pretty nice) and an Ichi-roll, an insufficient amount of shredded tuna tossed with quite a lot of srirachoid sauce and rolled with too much cucumber with sushi rice and nori of course. It was okay. As we were about to run off, I spotted a can of Hapi brand sriracha peas, which of course I had to buy. These are sort of like wasabi peas but with a sweet garlicky hot pepper and vinegary (srirachoid) coating; not bad until the bottom of the tin, where much of the acid lurked. Then back to our seats for the 8th, which wasn't nice for us. When the smoke cleared, it was 11-1, and we decided to escape, and we got the last 3 seats on a bus that got us home in jig time. That 11-1 turned out to be the final. A Harbin beer beer at the house to drown our sorrows: this is a Manchurian product that was reminiscent of a light, slightly skunky German beer: Harry thought it was like St. Pauli Girl. |
Katie Down's is a waterfront tradition, which, along with
the neigboring Ram, I always look forward to. It's both a bit costlier than the Ram and also a bit more divey. But it has steamed clams, as well as things Annie can eat. An order of crabcakes was half the price of the crabcakes I am used to; but it also contained less than half the crab. The frying was well done, though, and the bread cakes were set on a good-tasting sweet red pepper puree. Annie liked the dish; Harry and I focused our attention on a couple pounds of steamed Manila clams; good and plain, plain good. Harry is a proponent of west coast steamers, whereas I find them to take a back seat to the easties. I told him that someday I'd convince him, if it took a couple plane tickets to do so. On the bus Friday, some lady we got into a conversation with had said that Katie's pizza was the best in town, and Annie wanted to test this assertion: a personal pizza with red sauce and extra cheese, very brown and appetizing-looking, was deemed good but hardly the best in town. Harry and I confined our attention to a pitcher of Mac & Jack's porter, which was satisfying if a little burned tasting and a little vegetally tasting at the same time. Oddly, the second glass didn't taste so good as the first. In a discussion with one of the waitresses we determined that 1. if we'd showed up half an hour later, we'd have been able to get twice the clams for the price; and 2. there was a place at the other end of town, Steamers, that might have razor clams. We debated either 1. staying there and getting happy hour steamers or 2. checking out Steamers. We did #2. There didn't seem to be any. Instead of going back to Katie's, we decided to self-cater and so headed to Metropolitan Market, where a free wine tasting was in full swing. Except the ABC people were there, and I was denied the pleasure owing to having left my passport home; I stood there and schmoozed the manager, Harry's buddy Kelly, while he and Annie tasted fruit-forward quaffs of various sorts. No great loss, thought I, looking at the list. I picked up a half pound of smoked mussels, a promising-looking Snake River Farms American-style Kobe chuck roast, and a bottle of wine. The market had no problem taking my money without ID. A friend of Harry's had bequeathed him with a case or two of beer, among which were the evocatively named Fat Tire and Skinny Dip, from the New Belgium brewery in Fort Collins. These beers are less characterful than their names, and I don't see that they deserve either the opprobrium nor the praise that factions of beeries garner them with. They were fine but hardly more so. The mussels were delicious; last time they'd been not quite clean; this time, pretty much perfection. I separated the chuck roast into three steaky things and pan-broiled them. Major yums, the Kobeness of the beef manifesting itself in a sirloin-like level of tenderness and the depth of flavor that I love chuck for. |
Next day. To the Sheraton.
Took the bus with Harry, who got off at Royal Brougham to work the Mariners game. I proceeded to Union and the hotel, where I discovered my room not ready. So off to Chicken Valley at Pike Place Market. where the girl mistook my order for "a little under a pound of gizzards and livers mixed" for half a pound. She made an executive decision and gave me all gizzards and one liver. The gizzards were terrific, the liver kind of grainy and overdone, so maybe she had been protecting me from myself. Still a little peckish, I asked for a fried chicken thigh, which was from the chicken that ate Atlanta and was very delicious. Back to the hotel, where I was pleased to get a nice though not large corner room. As I'd had little sleep over the past few days, I took a brief nap and then walked a mile or so down to the Tamarind Tree, where even though early, I was not the first there, and there was a knot of folks milling about out front. It turns out that though the owner had taken missy's reservation, he had not communicated the fact that there were going to be forty ravenous FTers converging on the joint. A bit of a contretemps, fixed with comped red ink, er, wine. We were seated about an hour late, during which time a certain amount of stain made its way onto a certain number of pieces of clothing. We were seated at three or four long tables and were served a pleasant and sufficient meal. Vegetarian spring rolls started things off. They were pretty good but quite starchy, I mean starchier than I am accustomed to. Pineapple salad with chicken satay was good, but only 4 or 5 satays came out. I complained twice, despite being one of the original beneficiaries. Eventually everyone got enough satay, though the other end of the table had to wait until almost dessert time to get them. A bulgogiish preparation of soy sauce short ribs followed; there was enough of this. It was respectable. Lemongrass chicken - yummy. Peppered halibut and mushrooms in clay pot was problematic, as not only did some of us not eat halibut, some of us also did not eat mushrooms. The dish was peppery and halibutty. Garlic green beans and tofu got universal kudos. We finished with a peculiar take on fresh rolls, an odd dish that combined rice sheet, vegetables, shrimpy things (I can't swear to their actually being shrimp), and sweet potato fries. I'd like to unravel this dish sometime under more ideal circumstances of undarkness and undrunkenness. A bunch of 33 beers, which were fine. For afters, flan, which was a little rubbery but otherwise fine, and the famous banana cake with peanuts and coconut milk. jswong wanted company walking back to the W; I said, why not go all the way to the Kells, so we did. A quick look around revealed a noisy somewhat younger crowd, live music of a sort that tends to make my head hurt, and nobody familiar jumping out to say hi. So JS said, the bar at the W is nice (and was only a few blocks away). Unfortunately, though the bar there seems fine, the waiter who said he would be right with us left us hanging for 15 minutes, whereupon we decided to try the lobby lounge at the Sheraton ... which was closed - so we gave up and said our goodbyes. Anyhow, I'd been recruited for a Woodinville adventure in the morning and needed to get my beauty sleep. But for some reason, I got up at the crack of dawn, went downstairs, did the mail and the FT, and cast about for some sort of breakfast. The Daily Grill didn't seem promising, and after considering breaking into the big bag of Rocas that I'd got for the party, I decided to hope against hope and go see if the fryers had been frying all night at Chicken Valley. Of course not. Ended up getting a pound of king crab legs at Pure Food Fish Market and a skewer of red roast pork at the moon cake place (an ounce of the stuff in a big bun, $2.29, 6-7 oz on a stick, $2.89). The king crab was fresh, one evidence, beside the taste, being that afterwards my hands didn't smell fishy; the roast pork an odd mixture of lean pieces and fatty pieces, but not (the ideal) marbled lean-and-fatty pieces. The crab was rather briny, and I looked in vain for a beer at that hour; also, I got a fragment of body meat, which tasted like gasoline. |
finishing this off finally
Back to the room, where there was work to be done, and in no
time I had to go downstairs and rendezvous with the winos, er, oenophiles. Present: Jackal [designated driver], Bob W, beckoa, lili, lili+1 (Nick), nor4, moi. Our destinations were Columbia and Ch. Ste. Michelle across the street from it, an easy and jolly half-hour ride from the hotel (with a quick stop in the north part of Seattle to pick up nor4). Columbia has gotten more tourist-friendly since I was there last, with good food options - free munchies and reasonably priced flatbread pizzas, impressive function areas, and a briskly competent tasting room staff. My scribbles: Viognier 08 - pineapple, peach; some touch of spice; light body; citrus on the palate; yeasty, almost bready finish. Covey Run reserve Grenache (86 Grenache, 14 Malbec) - blueberry/cherry, spicy nose, tannic but a little dumb or empty on the palate; spicy finish [of course I can't find the vintage date in my notes]. Breccia 06 (Sangiovese/Barbera) - this being the house's Tuscan-style offering - a bit thin; acid - sort of like unripe blackberries; didn't care for it (though others among us liked this a ton). Red Willow vineyard: Cabernet 06 - a bit hot and green, stemmy, cherries, strawberries, touch of mint. Not quite ready. Peninsula 02 - lots of depth but still a little green; plums; peppery. Syrah 04 - odd animal smell that didn't ever quite blow off; plums and spice, medicinal; long finish. Of the lot, I think I preferred the Red Willow Cab, but on the whole it seems they don't measure up to the wines I used to buy here a couple decades ago. = Across the street to Ch. Ste. Michelle for the Reserve Room Tasting, where we were treated to Cold Creek Chardonnay 07 - theirs: Aromas of apple and lemon with toast flavors on the finish. Foods: seafood risotto, salmon, veal; 100% Chardonnay. Mine: pleasant spice and citrus; too yeasty (the "toast" flavors). Cold Creek Merlot 06 - theirs: Flavors of dark fruit with hints of bittersweet chocolate. Foods: lamb, pasta, beef, fowl; 78% Cold Creek Merlot 22% Cold Creek Cabernet Sauvignon. Mine: coffee, plum, cherry. Tannic. Didn't thrill me. Cold Creek Cab S 06 - theirs: Concentrated black fruit with aromas and flavors of blackberry jam. Foods: beef, hearty pastas, veal; 98% Cabernet Sauvignon 2% Merlot. Mine: beeswax and blackberry, a little tough. Anise in back. I liked it. Check. Col Solare Bx blend (Cab S, Merlot, Cab F) 05 - theirs: Aromas of black cherry, berry and dark chocolate fuse with smooth notes of vanilla and spice. Foods: beef, pasta, lamb; 71% Cab S. 25% Merlot 4% Cab F. I found it full of blackberry and vanilla with big tannin and a raisin vanilla finish; quite fine. Others supposedly thought it Italianate. Check. Chenin Blanc ice wine 06 - theirs: Intensely rich with ultra ripe melon aromas and flavors with a clean acidity. Foods: fresh fruits, custards, soft cheeses; 100% Horse Heaven Chenin Blanc. Mine: green tea, pineapple, apricot; a little flat with lowish acidity. Less successful than other stickies I've had from here - they used to make terrific late-harvest Riesling and Semillon that I drank a decade or two ago. Off the tasting, but we were allowed (probably because of Bob W) into the club area for a sneak preview of the Canoe Ridge Cab S 06 - pleasant, spicy, black pepper, black tea, blackberry, black everything. Quite nice. Not ready. Ethos Merlot 06 - less fruit than I'd have expected; a little open alcohol; spicy; blueberries and cherries with a dried blackberry finish. On the whole I liked these wines better than the ones across the street - the reverse of my preferences in the '90s and earlier '00s. Columbia really appears to have fallen behind, and I'm not sure why. |
We'd been pretty expeditious and on schedule and stuff, so
there was time to stop by the tasting rooms of Mark Ryan and J. Bookwalter, which are right on the highway. A festive buzz at Mark Ryan - apparently a fashionable house that has gotten quite a lot of press recently in the big name journals. I found the wines worthy but not maybe so exciting as others have; and the prices are really high. Long Haul 06 (mostly Merlot with some Petit Verdot and Cab Franc) - very tannic yet a bit sweet, powerful, a little green, blackberries prominent on the finish; Water Witch Bordeaux Blend 06 (Cab S, Merlot) - vanilla, blackberry, rather like a milkshake; didn't care for it; Dead Horse 06 (Cab S, Cab F, Merlot, Petit Verdot) acidy nose, cedar, mint, blueberry, blackberry; a powerful and interesting wine; Wild Eyed Syrah 07 - smoke and blueberries; interesting; Dissident Red 07 (Merlot, Syrah, Cab S, Petit Verdot) - too sweet; coffee, blackberry, a kick of anise; Dissident White 08 (Viognier, Chardonnay) - tropical fruit and apple, a bit too sweet. Next door the Bookwalter room was uncrowded and relaxed by comparison, despite a pretty nice product and a very glamorous young blonde pourer. Foreshadow 06 (Cab S, Petit Verdot, Malbec) - coffee, toffee, chocolate yet not overrich; good black currant; a pretty nice wine; Columbia Valley Cab 05 - the usual berry-cherry axis, good oak, more what I expected than the above. Also a good wine, but the Foreshadow seemed to me to have more character; Protagonist 06 - acidy bright, which I didn't really appreciate, but balanced with high tannin. Too unripe for me - my opinion is atypical, though; Novella 06 late harvest Sauvignon Blanc - floral nose, citrus and stone fruit. I thought this one a particularly terrific bargain and so bought a couple. - There were sundry messages on various phones from Fred Martens inviting people to his place for a pre-party wine event. So we went. Copious rather mature wines from Spanish- and Portuguese-speaking countries. I didn't take notes, having burnt out on that and enjoying the company too much. - To Missy's, where we were greeted by her smiling self, several dozen smiling cohorts, the fanciest port-a-potty in Christendom, salmon, tri-tip, and turkey. My small contribution: Almond and Cashew Rocas; Oremus Tokaji late harvest 05; and the Bookwalter LH SB that I thought so interesting at the tasting room. The Rocas have a story. Apparently Fred Haley had the good idea of donating Almond Roca to be included in the rations of the Pacific Theater GIs, who, in addition to becoming addicted to the sweet little things, used them as good-will attracting devices among the natives. They acquired a reputation among Asians (Chinese in particular) for being a high-prestige item, and among Chinese expats climbing the American economic ladder they became one of the few house gifts that actually got consumed. Two asides from 1960-ish. My father once opened a box of chockies that had been given to us as a hostess gift, and guess what, it was several years old and quite bizarre in every way; I still tried one; it was nasty. Another gift on another occasion was a box of Almond Roca, which was opened avidly and consumed avidly; I asked for one and was told that these were for adults only: on persistent inquiry I was granted a one-time exception, whereupon I discovered that they were for adults only, and I was an adult. Fast forward 38 years, when at my reunion a certain lady and I found a mutual attraction, and we started going out, and guess what? She was a Roca heiress, and I became reacquainted with the crunchy treats. Subsequent ladyfriends have forbidden me from Rocas owing to this association, and as I was relatively unattached at this Do, I felt free to go to the store and buy about 10 lb, of which a third went to the party. Nobody seemed to be familiar with the Oremus :eek:. I suppose that that's not a big surprise in this era of regional pride and specialization. The Bookwalter late harvest SB didn't get opened, but I'm sure it will be appreciated where it ended up. I got pretty muzzy and didn't take - or at least keep - any wine notes. |
Caught a ride with dedehans and Hans, and we repaired to the
Lobby Bar for drinks. In bed at an unconscionably early hour ... but then got up at 2. Words of experience: there's nothing to do around the Sheraton at 0200, unless you want to get in major, major trouble. monitor called around 9. There was a ride to be had to the airport, if I wanted to get there early. Fine with me, more time to schmooze. Got to the airport in jig time, said bye to monitor and Franny, and arranged to check out the Board Room with lili and Nick, who had invited me to join them. Screening was a snap, and I was in front of the room in about 10 minutes, but owing to a security breach and accompanying lockdown, I didn't find them until after 11. I'd even had them paged and everything. Turns out that even with her first-class ticket and numerous elite status she doesn't have guesting privilege, so I ended up springing for a day pass (she felt guilty for not being able to follow through on her invitation and split the cost with me). We ran into Cholula and his lovely wife and chatted with them for a good long time. There's a 3 drink max at the club! Oh, well. I had one of lili's and one of Nick's, as they headed off fairly early, and stole one, and ended up with 6. I am mildly fond of Alaska Amber, and after dropping the dough I felt entitled to as many as I could choke down. At noon soup comes out. This day it was "basil chicken chili with beans," but despite that inauspicious monicker it turned out to be filling and fairly decent, though rather bland - a dose of hot sauce would have helped quite a bit. Up to the N gates, where I bade goodbye to Cholula and +1. The RCC men's room has three sinks. Two were inop, and the other was clogged with blown chunks. What a classy airline. 0817 UA 980 SEA DEN 1438 1815 752 2A Ch9^ Empower:td: A full flight, mostly smooth and uneventful, it seems: I must admit that I slept from before the safety briefing until the meal order and then from the conclusion of lunch to touchdown. The meal was the deli plate that I recall from numerous redeye flights: one slice of salty but real roast beef; two of smoked turkey; one slice each of very bland semisoft cheese and very bland yellow Cheddar; one slice each of watermelon and pineapple; and a spray of grapes. Not bad, but not first class, either. UA 980 DEN BOS 1905 0053 752 5D Ch9:td:^ Empower:td: A peculiar dinner, served on one tray: hummus and crackers - this came without explanation, a big ball of the stuff on a lettuce leaf, more than your average diner would want to eat, unless a middle easterner, in which case it would be the whole meal; the stuff was okay, somewhat underseasoned and underlemoned; chicken teriyaki with vegetables (green beans, red Bell peppers, carrots, zucchini) and soapweed rice - a half breast, surprisingly tender, with a sweet ginger glaze; okay veggies, too much cilantro in the rice; mixed fancy greens salad with red Bell peppers and dried apple - pretty standard, served with that Asian sesame dressing; crumbly, slightly stale Black Forest cake. The red wine was a weird, cooked-tasting Zin whose identity I didn't run out to seek; speaking of running out, it did, whereupon it was replaced by a Malbec, but I was on Courvoisier by that time. We landed a bit late, but that's not a big deal as I didn't have anyplace to go. |
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