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Euskadi!
Euskadi!
And Venice. Frankfurt too. Took this trip way back in April and May of this year but I thought I’d post my first TR in many years. Having figured picture embedding knowledge, there will be pictures as I upload and link them so check back! This trip began when I saw that LH was resuming 3 CoS flights to YVR and the ANA award availability site showed that while BC was all gone, FC was readily available! Few minutes later and the Princess of Austria (PoA) and myself had FC tickets to Bilbo burning up the few US miles that we had. The original plan was to travel around Euskadi (a.k.a. the traditional Basque lands as named by the Basque nationalist movement) . Sometime between ticketing and travelling, the PoA saw a picture of the Hilton Molino Stucky’s pool in Venice and wanted to stay there, so our trip was duly altered at only the cost of airport fees (had to remind US staff of that though). Days before leaving YVR, we noticed that there was snow in the Pyrenees so we decided to switch the trip to counterclockwise hoping to get good weather. 24 April 2009 Had dropped of the PoA at her work place just across the north arm of the Fraser from YVR earlier that day. My uncle picked us up and dropped us off at YVR. Uneventful and quite check in as we were either late of early. Off to the AC lounge (only *A lounge in the int’l area of YVR) for some drinks and a snack before boarding LH493. Boarded to take the 2nd row centre pair seats and were warmly welcomed by the FC crew who noted that the PoA was an Austrian citizen (seems that there were many Austrians in the flight crew that day). Multicourse dinner followed with champagne, variety of wine, dessert wine and schnapps. I fell asleep shortly after and must say the LH FC seats are probably the best I’ve slept in, and this includes FC on AF, AA, BA, QF and CX). The PoA has experienced all the previous but AF and agreed. She is a stomach sleeper and found the seats wonderful to sleep in. 25 April Nice breakfast and uneventful landing into FRA. Docked at one of the piers which was a long walk from the central terminal. We were determined to use the FCT and so proceeded to go landside, walked on the ground level and found the FCT. Rang the bell and an attendant came to get us. Impressions of the FCT? This is the only way to travel! They take care of everything and no waits at all in security. Kerbside to a drink in your hand at the lounge in 2-3 minutes if not less! After liberating some toiletries and rubber duckies, we had a quick meal at the dining room. It was white asparagus season and one of the specials was schnitzel und weiss spargl that the PoA loves, washed down with Gruner veltliner. Catering was by the Viennese “gourmet entertainment” outfit, Do & Co. God schnitzel but the PoA thinks her mother’s is better even if it’s made of pork. As boarding time came, the LH attendant came to us, escorted us downstairs to the limo area and we were off on the very short drive to the a/c (parked at the nearest pier). The PoA was quite impressed that her bags (we were handcarrying on a 3 week trip) were not only carried up to the a/c for her but stowed away too. Quick flight to BIO which didn’t offer much of scenery as it was cloudy. The food was no longer interesting to us but was Italian in theme, promoted biodynamism or some such and featured basil in everything including the dessert. No view of the Pyrenees at all and heavy overcast and light rain arriving into BIO. I heard read some travel article about the Basque lands (this was my 4th trip here) and the writer made a comment that it was so lush and green here because it rained so much. I only realized it this time as everything was so lush and green, almost tropical. Got out of the airport fast. This is one of the least commercial airports when you arrive. Exit the baggage/customs hall and you’re immediately dumped landside. Not even a tabac to stop at. Rented our car from Atesa (never resolved the difference in booked and charged rates) and got a Citroen C3 diesel which suited us fine. Drove to our hotel which was the Tryp Sondika. Their instructions proved a little wanting so it took us a while to find it. O.k. room if not a bit run down but the rates were right. I had actually misbooked the room but the front desk agent was very friendly and gave us the rate (it was very empty) booked. Settled in and went to Bilbo over the mountains on the non-toll road and even found our way to the Guggenheim. Went to park in the old town (Zazpi kaleak in Euskara, Casco Viejo in Spanish) where the stalls have green and red lights to signal if they’re vacant or not. We need this in N. America. Walked around the old town visiting pintxo bars, eating pintxos and drinking the local white effervescent wine. Bought a road map (essential as we planned to take the minor roads). This particular one must be aimed at the nationalists as the names of all the minor towns are in Euskera only. That’s actually not a bad as will be explained later. Walked by a pelota court and even though it was apparently small with no seating for an audience, we discovered on our later trip that games here are televised on one of the two ETB stations (which is serving to spread revival of the basque language around). http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3465/...28c3316ddf.jpg Basque ham in the old town. The shop's bar was across the street Getting out of the parking bay was a bit problematic when the machine ate our ticket. It’s a fairly common problem as an attendant came by to liberate it after a few minutes. Bilbo is certainly not easy to get around and some say that missing a turnoff may result in a 80km diversion. We only got to a toll tunnel which got us back to the hotel earlier. 26 April After breakfast (join the Tryp’s frequent stayer programme and the 2nd breakfast is free), we set off on one of the small roads towards Donostia (better known as San Sebastian). First, we went to Bilbo again and spent an hour taking pictures of the museum. Frank Gehry used a titanium skin because it provides a warm glow which is important as it's often cloudy and gloomy here. There was some run or even a marathon that morning so we had some difficulty getting out of town. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2445/...fa6537b6ac.jpg Guggenheim Bilbo on a partly cloudy morning The Spanish region is heavily industrialized compared to the French region and is nowhere as charming. Maybe it was because of the cloudy day but it was certainly bleak. One thing I noticed was, there were very few supermercados! It would appear that they’re either very well hidden or people bought food from small groceries and at markets. Power to them. Cutting to the coast, we got to the town of Getaria which was the town that Magellan’s navigator - the man who bought the remaining crew and ship back from the epic RTW voyage – hailed from and returned to after the RTW voyage. A victim of the depletion of fisheries, the fishing fleet was tied up and where a fish market may once have been, you found many African immigrants selling various wares. We looked for lunch but realized fresh fish wasn’t going to be available today so we had a pintxo and left. One thing we noticed is that the drinks need to be well aerated in Euskadi (at least the provinces of Bizkaia and Gipuzkoa) whether its for wine or for cider (reason for the latter later). So you see the bar tenders pouring wine into big tumblers from at least 15” up, if not higher. Shoulder height to waist was as low as we saw anyone pour. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2488/...445a4acafc.jpg Getaria harbour Getting to the next town of Orio, we thought it was rather charming and stopped for lunch. We figured that a place where the staff were grilling fish on charcoal (or was it wood?) fire outside was good. We settled for the local steak (Chuleton which must be a rib cut) which was sold by weight. Not cheap, a bit boney and fatty but it was delicious. Going onto Donostia, we had booked a rural agroturismo called Aristondo (the Basque government’s website offers a comprehensive listing of such establishments). Finding it, despite instructions was another matter. It actually only took us half hour and then going up a small little one lane country road, less than 10 minutes from Donostia, that we found it. A rural old Basque farmhouse, with 3 generations inhabitants that converted a barn to 4 comfortable guestrooms. As a plus, the owners had recently extended the roof of the barn to cover most of the big deck (wonderful view over the bay and town). Certainly nice given torrential rain. The farmer, friendly as he was, spoke to us in Spanish (what little I understood). His primary language may well have been Euskara. Greenhouse crops and a flock of free-range chickens is what he had. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2522/...6a431f6ca9.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3464/...2140185c93.jpg The Aristondo agroturismo After settling in, we drove to the Parte Zaharra (parte vieja) or old quarter in Donostia and walked through the few streets there (very modern otherwise). Hit the pintxo bars again and found the best, wine wise, at the inner SE corner of the Konstituzio plaza. Try any of Alna (Burgos) wines. They’re the best we tried. 27 April The Basque eat late so breakfast didn’t come until 9 (typical time). Fortunately we had a good sleep. Food isn’t the highlight in Spain and the breakfast consisted of some butter and jam (all packaged) served with package toast and buns. You don’t have to imagine what that was like. Coffee was o.k. If you have read Salt or Cod of Basque History of the World, interrelated and written by Mark Kurlansky, you’ll know that salted cod is a staple of the Basque and it is believed the Basque found the new world cod fishing grounds and were fishing it long before Columbus came along on his voyage of discovery (aided by the Basque who crewed and outfitted his ships, let alone provided his navigators). Early European adventurers into the new world write that natives in Quebec and Newfoundland knew the basque word for salt cod. At any rate, one of the regional specialty meals (from January to May) served at sagardotegis is is an omelet of salt cod, followed by a fillet of salt cod, then the steak, and finally cheese with jam (cherry, I think), all washed down with lots of cider. The Basque have apparently been making cider for millennia and claim to have spread the knowledge to the French (Normans at least) and beyond. It's claimed Basque sailors would take 2 gallons of cider per man per day when they sailed. Not only was it something to drink but it would provide vitamin C and prevent scurvy. We went to Astigarraga a short way out of Donostia which is the centre of the cider making area. Unfortunately being a Monday, everything was closed. Discouraged, we headed to the French border and the border town of Hondarribia. The PoA had come here on her tour of Europe as a young woman and stayed her a few days. She could never find it since as she had known it as Fuenterrabia Basque nationalism has certainly taken off after the demise of Franco and many town names in the region have the names in Spanish or French in the respective areas, and the alternate name in the local language (as per E.U. dictate) which would be Euskara. On the smaller roads, you’ll find the names only in Euskara if it wasn’t made so by the French or Spanish name being painted over. Most travelers to the area know to know the names in Euskara as well as the local language. As one guide book writer puts it, the locals really want you to learn their language and help you by starting with the town names. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2622/...38e90cfc48.jpg The independence movement lives At the Hondarribia waterfront, we found an unlikely sagardotegi that was serving the meal. We ordered, and were pointed towards the big barrels of cider in the tavern. A kindly American working in the area show us what txotx is. What you do it open the small faucet (located high up) and pour it into your glass held as low as you can. The splashing aerates the cider which releases the CO2 in the cider, which is still otherwise. Imagine an all-you-can-drink tavern at home! The food was delicious. The PoA isn’t one for salted foods - especially fish – but found the bacalao (salt cod) omelette and bacalao filet was very tasty, as was the steak (again, a chuleton). http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2576/...ef3277a7d1.jpg Txotx! The town is certainly a picturesque place and has a fortified hilltop old town. After going to Higer birua, the NE corner of Spain, we drove over the spine of a local mountain, stopping to see a herd of the Basque pony, the Pottok (you’ll see pictograms of them in prehistoric caves) we returned to Donostia via Pasai Donibane. The small old village hugs the cliff and there’s only a one lane road through the old town, with a traffic light because it’s only one lane wide and so traffic alternates. Buildings on either side back up to the water or to the cliff. There’sa small boat building museum that still builds the old open Basque boats. This town built, outfiited and crewed the 3 ships Columbus used on his expedition, and the Marquis of Lafayette spent several weeks here before heading off to the new world and causing problems for his country’s enemy. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3491/...0220b01f2b.jpg Gates of Hondarribia http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2536/...ae8e9ccf48.jpg Street in Hondarribia http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2536/...a2911cb37d.jpg Pottok mare and foal http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2457/...90ea713303.jpg Only street in Pasai Donibane Coming Next: Araba and La Rioja. |
Really excellent report YVR Cockroach and looking forward to the rest.
Spain is such a wonderful country to tour especially out of season and away from the obvious tourist spots as we have normally done in the past. Not been to the Basque region yet so it makes the report all the more interesting. ^ |
Originally Posted by HIDDY
(Post 12488116)
Really excellent report YVR Cockroach and looking forward to the rest.
Spain is such a wonderful country to tour especially out of season and away from the obvious tourist spots as we have normally done in the past. Not been to the Basque region yet so it makes the report all the more interesting. ^ |
Thanks for the feedback so far!
Onward... 28 April After another breakfast of stale prepackaged bread (PoA thought the host's grumpy beret-wearing father who doesn't think this agroturismo nonsense is a good idea must have made it), we headed southwest, bypassing the town of Tolosa renown for its beans. Gasteiz (or Vitoria in Spanish) is the capital of the province of Araba and also the capital of the Basque Autonomous Community. Araba is apparently also the least Basque of the 3 provinces in the CAV which is reputedly why the capital was set up here. We got here on the feast day of the patron saint, San Prudencio, so everything was closed but parking was free. The special dish of the day is snails and mushrooms but apparently it’s something to be cooked and eaten at home. We made it up to the oval-shaped citadel and walked around the old town. There’s a carnival here similar to San Fermin in Navarra province. At the beginning of the festival, the Celadon – a legendary Basque – (or at least his effigy) parachutes down from a nearby cathedral spire holding his umbrella like Mary Poppins to launch the multi-day festival which results in many days of drinking. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2657/...a15c21cbb7.jpg Church tower in Gasteiz citadel. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2671/...172941d5c5.jpg Comical representation of the feast of San Prudencio http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2446/...fbd198a4aa.jpg Mural on a building in old town Gasteiz. Wonderful tromp d'oeil. After a lunch, we made a quick diversion to an old salt mine, we drove to the south end of the province into the north end of the La Rioja wine region. This area was inhabited by prehistoric man so there are a lot of dolmens and settlements (la Hoya), some which we visited just outside the citadel town of Guardia (La Guardia). The town has long had a wine making tradition. Vintners would harvest their grapes and bring them up to their bodegas tunneled under the streets of the town to crush and ferment the grapes, barrel age and eventually bottling the wine. One of the regional dishes is a potato stew made with wine and tomatoes, with perhaps some chorizos. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2481/...23df97b489.jpg Salt mine somewhere west of Gasteitz http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3436/...4123c20880.jpg Guardia http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2433/...b2d4166d50.jpg Church steeple in Guardia http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2660/...fcb23d062b.jpg View from our agroturismo just outside the walls of Guardia 29 April Tarting up your winery seems to be big business but we preferred to stay with small wine makers. Marquis de Riscal had Frank Gehry design its new winery building (the PoA thought it looked ugly up close) and Ysios has something funny too. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2648/...a189a75114.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2611/...1bfc430d0f.jpg Ysios winery, north of Guardia http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3439/...9965c19198.jpg Marquis de Riscal winery in Elciego After lunch, we made a diversion outside Euskadi to Logrono (a dusty town said to be famous for its peppers) before settling in for the night as a small dead end village of Etaio. We had a marvelous time talking to the hostess – or as much as we could since she only spoke Spanish and our comprehension isn’t exactly stellar - whose family had lived in the house for over 300 years. The loft in the room provided a nice view of the valley and a place to eat a picnic dinner (we didn’t want to stay out late and dinner isn’t served until 9 in rural Spain). http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3436/...dff544f170.jpg Rooftops of Etoia from our top floor room's loft. Before leaving Vancouver, we had met a couple who were going to be walking the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage trail. Having learnt more, we were intrigued having seen signs of the trail in Gasteiz. We made a quick tour to Lizarra (Estella) which is one of the main stops along the trail (nothing memorable here). http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2537/...f3fe119929.jpg This way to Santiago de Compostela 30 April After breakfast where our host Raquel showed us leather-bound ancient copies (2nd edition?) of Don Quixote that had belonged to her family for generations, we made our way to Irunea (Pamplona) via way of Gares (Puente la Reina). This town is another walled city that is still a stopover for the Compostela pilgrimage. The well-heeled pilgrim would stay Relais et Chateaux’s aptly-named El Peregrino while most apparently race for the few hostel spots. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3432/...b498e6511d.jpg Bridge at Fuenta La Riena (is this a redundant description?) http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2544/...dc36da5a21.jpg Pilgirms welcome Nafarroa (Navarra) is one of the traditional Basque provinces but the Basque influence here is now so low that it did not join the Basque Autonomous Community. The Basque government however reserves a place for it in the heraldic shield and other symbols. Irunea doesn’t have too much old world charm other than the small old town, which is better known to tourists for the running of the bulls to open bullfighting season and the tomato debauchery. Finding that most of the guide-recommended restaurants had closed, we found one staffed and frequented by South Americans of indigenous South American ancestry. We experienced the view of wine as essential in life here: our menu came with either water or wine so we ended up with a bottle of wine for the 2 of us. At lunch. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3249/...760c90ba89.jpg You wouldn't want to be here when the toros are released to run to the arena. After lunch, we made our way up the damp and cloudy Pyrenees to the little village of Orbaitzeta. It was certainly a damp and cloudy day, which made driving around a beech forest seem a bit bleak. Wanting some wine, we found the local shop in the village which at first seemed closed (unlit and unheated) but that’s the way of saving power. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3504/...d9d73aaca6.jpg View of out of our room at Orbaitzeta. A small but real working farm |
1 May - Into France's Pays Basque
We were wondering why olive oil is present on breakfast tables in Spain. The PoA was even hoping meat and cheese would be served for breakfast. As some Catalonians showed us, you pour it onto bread like you would spread butter on it. We continued making our way north until we crossed what we thought was the French border in heavy cloud. Sure enough, a French car passed us as we wound our way up and down the Pyrenees. The PoA was quite glad the clouds obscured the drop-offs. Tracing my way around, we got to Larraine (Larrau). http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/y...i/DSC03748.jpg Crossing the ridge of the Pyrenees from Spain into France, as we surmised http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/y...i/DSC03752.jpg Descending through the Iraty beech forest http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/y...g?t=1254526778 Common co-traveller http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/y...g?t=1254526953 Who’s leading the flock? http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/y...g?t=1254526995 We know who the follower is I've passed through the little village of Larrau a number of times, and always try to make a stop at Hotel Etchemaite for lunch. This little Basque restaurant has been there for years and offers excellent regional cuisine. On this cloudy wet day, we were offered a table by the open hearth fireplace. It's embarrassing but I don't remember what I had off the 3 course prix fixe menu but I do remember the country vegetable soup, which the server served from a 2 or 3 gallon pot! http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/y...g?t=1254527043 Hotel Etchemaite in the village of Larraine After lunch, we drove to the little village of Urdatx Santa Grazi (Ste Engrace), on the NE frontier of Euskadi, to visit the 11th century church. The Basque have incorporated their pre-Christian era beliefs into Catholicism and one of the artifacts are the discoidal grave markers. The lauburu - the Basque cross - features prominently. http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/y...g?t=1254526878 Discoidal grave markers at Ste Engrace It so appears hat you have to be prepared for bad weather in the Pyrenees. The following picture was the road condition for about 20km along a ridge that day. http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/y...g?t=1254526833 After a big lunch, dinner wasn't really on the menu. Checking into our chambres d'hotes outside Oloron Ste Marie, we found that the town was having a market day. French markets are a wonderful place to find picnic food. The PoA found a paella stand while a local farmer, impressed by me wearing a beret (it seems to have gone out of style for everyday wear except by old Basque men), was offering me samples of his cheese and sausages. That and some country bread made for a nice dinner picnic. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2528/...680680eb05.jpg Our chambres d'hotes outside Oloron Ste. Marie. |
2 May Pilgrimage for the non-religious
We had tried to find accommodation around (or rather) south of Lourdes for the previous night but were greeted with an universal "complet". Getting into town, we found that the Knights of Malta were here for a 4 day pilgrimage. The calendar of Catholic groups visiting the site is constant and somewhat staggering. Lourdes is said to have the highest number of hotel rooms in France outside of Paris. The street leading down to the holy site is a souk for religious items, and of course there were many of what appeared to be able-bodied young persons preying on the good will of pilgrims. Miraculously after crossing the river, all commercialism and panhandling disappeared. The most popular being containers to take home holy water in. The PoA is culturally Catholic so purchased some shaped in the form of the Virgin to give to family. PoA found the whole Lourdes scene very moving and uplifting, with pilgrims from all over the Catholic world coming to visit. The Knights of Malta's members had brought infirm to visit, as did small private parties. You also found pilgrims - most healthy and able-bodied - from all over Europe arriving here on bus tours, The highlight (there are at least 3 basilicas/cathdedrals on site - a large modern one being underground) is the grotto where you find lines of people coming to visit, wiping away the moisture from the cave the Virgin appeared to Bernardette. We were rather suspicious whether all the copious amounts of water purportedly issuing from the springs was in fact 100% spring water, but it's hope and faith that counts. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2544/...432526ae23.jpg Knights of Malta in front of the Basilica of the Rosary. The Basilica of the Immaculate Conception is on top (yes they're stacked on top of each other). http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/y...g?t=1254527605 http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/y...g?t=1254527659 Grotto at Lourdes Heading back to Oloron Ste. Marie, we had to find the Lindt chocolate factory. There's been a chocolate industry here for quite a long time though I'm not sure if Lindt was the original operator or not. There's no tour but the locals (judging from the deparment. nos. on license plates) come here to buy Lindt chocolate in bulk and at quite a savings over retail prices. Dinner was in the hotel restaurant of some adjacent town. The highlight of my meal (the main course wasn't particularly memorable for it's not-so-good bouef) was Garbure which is a vegetable soup particular to this part of Bearn and the Pays Basque. Beans and cabbage are must-haves but you can use any vegetable you like otherwise. |
Tha Pays Basque
3 May Back in the Pays Basque
Driving around Bearn and the Pays Basque, we noticed a lot of light cream-coloured and somewhat small cows. It didn't take us long to find marketing information for the Blonde d'Aquitaines (which appear to have a following in N. America) which is protected by AOC like the Bresse Chicken. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2584/...12d93986bd.jpg A blonde of Aquitaine The weather had been overcast but as we climbed the valley towards Larrau, the weather cleared with bright blue skies so we could see the rugged peaks of the Pyrenees. I had to stop for lunch again at Etchemaite so we made reservations while we went up a bit further to explore. Settling in for lunch, I ordered a make-your-own prix fixe menu while the PoA chose a 2 courser. Recoqnizing us from our Friday visit (the restaurant gets a lot of repeat customers), we were waiting for my first course when the maitresse brought us 2 plates with a rather large slab of cold meat loaf/terrine arranged with some vegetables. We alerted them that we did not order them but we were told it was a comp amuse guele. It certainly just wasn't a mouthful and would be considered a light meal by many). I ordered the beef which I was assured was from a Blonde d'Aquitaine. I will say that the meat was very tender and delicate, and non-fibrous, but there wasn't much flavour. If you ever wanted to make a beef schnitzel, this would be the beef to use. The first time I ate at Etchemaite, they were serving whole trout sautéed in olive oil, garlic and jambon de Bayonne. Wonderfully delicious. After lunch, I talked to the chef de cuisine and asked him why this wonderful dish isn’t on the menu (there are certainly enough trout farms to supply him). I makes whatever I feel like, he said. While the Pyrenees aren't any more or less rugged than mountains in western N. America, what makes them different is how accessible they are. You find paved roads (perhaps small, steep and very narrow) everywhere. I could imagine designing torturous race courses for road bikers here. It was apparently already vacation time here so we couldn’t find any accommodation in our Routard guide unless we went to Tosse in Landes. Landes is part of that low sandy land SW of Bordeaux. It was essentially a sand wasteland most unsuitable for agriculture but Napoleon had the idea of planting most of the entire area with pine and he did it. From that start, the region now produces over 1/3 of France’s wood. Any wooden case that holds your Bordeaux wine was probably from Landes timber. Tosse and the coastal stretch of Landes has become a French retirement haven with lots of relatively newly-built developments which would make one think they were in suburban Australia. The food in these tourist-oriented towns is often disappointing and we were disappointed that we did find disappointing food. Regional food and specialties I’m not sure if it’s my lack of fluency in Spanish but I get the impression the French side has many more food specialties in a much smaller area. Not just the Blonde d’Aquitaine (not uniquely Basque), but also piment peppers from Ezpeleta (Espelette), Jambon de Bayonne – Baiona (from a unique breed of Basque pig), dark cherries from Itsasu (Itxassou). The region even has its own AOC wine Irulegi (Irouleguy). Gateau Basque, an almond tart filled with either cream or Itsasu cherries, seems to be made only on this side of the Pyrenees. The Basque also used to go after baby eels that came in from the Sargasso sea but they’ve been almost fished out. The small Atlantic mussels here are a specialty. They are small and delicious – something the PoA who doesn’t like shelled mollusc in general actually relishes. Some Basque dishes include piperade which is an omelette featuring piment and sweet peppers, Marmitako – a tune stew, Poulet basqueais – a self-descriptive stew, and Ttoro – a really flavourful fish/seafood stew (served with lots of garlic toast). Before I forget, there’s the sheep cheese / fromage de brebi often sold as Ossau Iraty AC (as well as some trade name). The milk has to be from the black-faced sheep. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2486/...6c08c3e475.jpg One of the prettiest post office in France? Experience with the French Medical system A clogged eustachion tube led to an ear infection. Pharmacies were unable to offer anything other than a saline nasal spray (the French seem to be really into this, and it does work) but I needed real medical attention. Driving to Baiona, I found a pharmacy who referred me to a Medicin up the road. It wasn’t a long wait fortunately and most surprisingly, the consultation and prescription costed a mere €22 which the medicin collected in cash. Armed with my prescription (saline nasal spray, oral antibiotics and a liquid antibiotic administered directly into the ear), we went off to explore Baiona which is said to be where the bayonet was invented. The town is divided in Bayonne and Petit Bayonne depending on which side of the Errobi (Nive) river you’re on. Petit Bayonne is a charming example of a high density Basque town. One highlight of Bayonne is the cathedral. A feature common to most Basque churches is that they have galleries above the main floor, often at least two levels, to fit in more parishioners. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2546/...b26f8ec50c.jpg Petit Bayonne We decided to stay in the town of Azkaine (Ascain) for the next 3 nights in a typical Basque farmhouse. This particular property had been in the same family for hundreds of years (some old farms are said to be occupied by the same family for millennia). There aren’t too many old houses though as the Basque are fastidious and will rebuilt their farmhouses and churches every few centuries. This particular family built a new house in the 19th century but did not demolish the old house (which was either 16th or 14th century). The old house had been used as a barn was in the process of being renovated for occupation by the daughter and her young family. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2533/...4e340451f5.jpg Older Basque farmhouse (either 400 or 600 years old) typical throughout most of Euskadi http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3478/...b9c9696c90.jpg The immediately adjacent newer (18th century) farmhouse. One's Labourd and one's Navarra style. I forget which is which. Our excursions included the formerly-glamorous resort of Miarritze (Biarritz) which still has wonderful old hotels and promenades, as well as the old town. It’s certainly worth walking around the beach front old quarter if you have the time. Donibane Lohizune (St. Jean de Luz – it means mud and not light) also has a promenade and an old harbour still used by fisherman. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2527/...8fbf89e856.jpg How the beach at Biarritz is groomed http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2449/...d32039a62c.jpg Biarritz from a promenade viewpoint There are said to be some wonderful seafood restaurants along the coastal road between Ziburu (Cibourre) and the frontier town of Hendaia (Hendaye). We settled for a seafood restaurant – popular with the locals – in some residential street in Ziburu where the Ttoro is one of the specialties. For one of our lunches, we stopped in at Les tables de les Freres Ibarboure, one of the local destination restaurants. The family has run this one Michelin star restaurant (and also a hotel). On my first visit here a decade ago, I was looking for the restaurant when I found very helpful white on brown road sign (the French do have their priorities right here) with the restaurant’s name on it, which took me down some country road, under a one-lane tunnel under a railway track with a blind corner, over a highway and then some obscure and winding country lane to the restaurant. I also learnt that I should know more menu terms. Ordering ris d’agneau, I was expecting something lamby. It certainly was, and delicious, but took a bit of getting used to this delicacy. The wait staff here are wonderful and friendly. One specialty of the restaurant is the chocolate degustation for dessert (highly recommended). At €15, it’s almost half the small prix fixe menu price and only available on the a la carte menu but the staff made a substitution (has to be ordered when they take your lunch order) for us, at a very small supplement. We did notice that those who ordered an aperitif received a small plate of canapés while those who had a dessert drink got petit fours. The amuse guele here was an assortment of molluscs on a foamy savoury bed. Lunch for two with a bottle of wine, the supplement and coffee was surprisingly affordable – not much more than a good dinner for two in YVR. The menu I’ll have in the future would be the degustation though. For those considering staying at the hotel, it would appear that guests who have board get to choose from an apparently small and possibly limited menu. The PoA had Gateau Basque 3x in less than 6 days. The best was at some restaurant in Donibane Lohizune where she had the paella with the (for her) wonderful small mussels. Somewhere in the middle and nowhere near as good was at the bakery featured in Kurlansky’s book in Senpere (St. Pee du Nivelle) and the worse being the pastry offered at breakfast at our chambers d’hote one morning. I’ve noticed that bakery standards have been slipping in France and going to an artisanal patisserie or boulangerie does not guarantee you’ll get a real croissant and not just some bready semblance instead. Same with the Gateau Basque that had a very hard an inedible crust. Other than berets and espadrilles (the former is made in Bearn and the latter – well it’s hard to find authentic ones with rope soles these days), the fashion every Basque man needs is a makhila. It’s a short walking stick or baton – said to have originated as a shepherd’s staff that every old man needs. It’s short but heavy enough to take someone down, and also has a nice point to it, on both ends. One family, the Anciart-Bergaras in Larresoco has been making them for 6 generations, and a frequent patron is the French government which buys them as gifts for foreign dignitaries. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2472/...d6e984d174.jpg Monsieur Gracy and his and his father's makhilas in his left hand. His father was given the silver one by the local government in 1955. M. Gracy received his in the early '90s. That kid isn't one of the progeny, but could well have been that of this woman. One thing I've noticed that's new in France is the preponderance of RVs. I recall hardly seeing any 10 years ago but there seems to have been a boom in their numbers. Though smaller in size than their N. American counterparts, they still take up a lot of room on small French roads, are slow and their drivers are no less inconsiderate and clueless than some or many of the morons you see driving them in N. America. Between Ascain and Sare is Le Petit Train de La Rhune, a cog railway that takes you up the the northwesternmost peak of the Pyrenees at some 700m. We had passed it earlier in the week but saw a warning light stating that it was cloudy with no visibility up top. Seeing that it was clear the previous night and gloriously sunny that morning, we headed to the station where a sizable crowd was already there. Getting our tickets, we rushed the train, only to find ourselves on the second train. On a single track up to 3 trains are operated at one time with a switch at the middle for opposing direction trains to pas each other. Following the 1st train by some 90 seconds, we appreciated the steepness of the climb, which some hikers were walking. Passing many pottoks along the way, we got to the top where there was a sizeable crowd. The peak straddled the French-Spanish border with the cafe (and road down) being on the Spanish side. Hiking down is an option and a downhill mountain biker would be spoilt for choice of downhill single track. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2626/...3b87606e99.jpg At the summit of La Rhune Our friend who was starting his pilgrimage that day was scheduled to depart Donibane Garuzi. Taking a small back road, we drove along where the pilgrimage trail (some 8km straight up) and road met. He wasn't there and we later learnt that we were on the 2nd day trail for many (it's that steep). When we crossed from Spain into France, we passed a site called Urkulu. It's high up on a peak and is a circular tower base built of well-cut stone. No one knows who built it but they must have spent a lot of time and effort. It is said to resemble a Roman victory tower but there's no record of the Romans ever building it there. The Basque have no legends about it and the name isn't a Basque one. It's also a steep rugged trail up unless you chose to follow the zigzagging livestock trail. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3424/...ee307edf39.jpg Gate of Spain at Donibane Garuzi - passed through by hundreds of thousands, if not millions, of pilgrims. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3611/...3bacf60408.jpg Urkulu is up there. You can see the stone ring on the peak crest. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3446/...9b13945cec.jpg Cave used as a paddock on the crest of the Pyrenees |
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7 May - Back to the Pais Vasco
With sadness, we left Ascain and headed back to Spain, first along a small road that took us from Hendaye to Irun and then the autopista towards Bilbo. Our target was a few coastal fishing ports. Eventually getting to Bermeo, we tried to get to a church and shrine built on a small island but ran into a closed road that was really closed (moving those plastic water- filled barriers to get around supposed road closures is something I learnt from the French). We headed out to Bilbo's port of Getxo at the mouth of the Nervion river. The main attraction is the Puente Colgante transporter bridge, Designed by a student of Gustav Eiffel, it provides a crossing across the river to connect the two towns while allowing large ships to pass underneath, all without destroying majors parts of the towns on either side or making the bridge users climb high up. How was this accomplished? By using a suspended gondola. Over a 100 years old, the bridge is still used 24/7/365. You can go up and walk across the span for EUR 5 as a tourist or go across on the gondola as a foot passenger for a few euro cents. Car capacity was 6 and however motor bikes and scooters could fit in. It was just over an Euro for a car and two pax. Eerily smooth and quiet crossing as the motors were in the carriage over 100' above. It's unique enough to be a U.N. World Heritage site. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3600/...2c2ffc7b90.jpg Puente Colgante http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2513/...339a91d056.jpg Allows ships to pass under http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3478/...995b50b846.jpg View of the gondola from above http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3487/...ea888f3288.jpg North end of the bridge No roadways necessary to demolish the old town I decided yet another agroturismo stay would be nice so I picked one to the west of Bilbo. Using the highways, we took the right exit for the town of Alonsotegi, went onto a side road, that became even narrower, before becoming unpaved and winding up a small valley enshrouded in mist. The PoA noticed some movement and soon we saw 4 young cows coming our way, and go past. Then we passed this red-faced out-of-breath man who looked at us with a look of "why are you looking at me? My cows just ran away". So there it was, Ordaola. Appearing out of the mist like the Bates Motel would if it was there. After some fussing because the owner apparently hadn't communicated our reservation to his receptionist, we settled into our room for the rest of the day. Dinner was offered so we took it. Going to the dining room at the appointed time of 9, we walked into a dark room where the receptionist was waiting. Some lights came on and we were seated. Dinner started with soup and bread, followed by fried eggs, ham and chips. I almost thought I was in the U.K. and green salad. Dessert was some rather stale ice cream novelties. Breakfast was the uneaten bread for the previous night, toasted. At least it wasn't packaged. Heading out to Bilbo, we had the Guggenheim museum in our sights. Bilbo is busy at any time and there isn’t much parking available around the museum . The nearest was at an upscale and new shopping mall down river from the museum. The museum itself is probably more interesting from the outside than inside. The permanent exhibits are rather limited and we were not sure that we “got it”. Certainly our hosts at the Cd’H in Tosse didn’t think they got it either. The highlight exhibition that was plastered in shop windows all over town was one of Takashi Murikami. Let’s say it’s a good thing Europe has more open view of sexuality than North Americans. Yes, his Lonesome Cowboy and Hiropon statutes were there. Lunch was at the shopping mall (discounted parking with purchase). http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3499/...77d97c20bd.jpg Murikami advertisement The Spanish don’t do food courts the same way as is done in N. America. All the outlets there were proper sit down and serve, and the prix fixe lunch was with water or wine (they must be available at the same price if bottled here). That was the last whimper following 2 weeks of good eating. We had an early departure next morning so it was back to the Tryp Sondika (and we got the proper directions to get back to BIO this time!). Recommended Reading Cadogan publishes a guide titled Bilbao and the Basque Lands. They also have overlapping guides. One's Northern Spain and the other is Pyrenees and Dascony or some such for France. Michelin's Atlas des Routiers is the map to use for anywhere in France (except cities). We used the Atlas Turistico Euskal Herria for the Basque country. Routard's Chambres des Hotes is a great guide for good places to stay in rural France, and the Restos book a guide to places to dine. www.nekatur.net has a directory of agroturismos in the CAV - the site now is much better for locating accomodation than 6 months ago. Spanish Navarra's tourism site has a similar guide. Sweet Promised Land by Robert Laxalt, published by U. of Nevada Press, is a good read about the author's father's return to the Basque country after 47 years' absence. Other books by Laxalt (brother of former Nevada governor and U.S. senator Paul Laxalt) are good too. Of course there's Mark Kurlansky's Basque History of the World, and the related Salt and Cod. |
Great Trip Report
I was to Lourdes, Bayonne and Biarritz in 2003. Fantastic part of Europe.
As far as the "Transporter Bridge" is concerned, I was on a sports trip to northeast England this past summer and saw the famous Middlesbrough transporter bridge. A truly unusual means of conveyance. |
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