Totally Peruvian Advice
 

Decided to fall off the planet for a couple of weeks and mark through one of my list of "things to experience in my lifetime". I'm taking a friend to Peru to hike the Inca trail to Machu Pichu and raft down the Amazon. Any advice on this area would receive my warmest appreciation!

------------------
Aloooha!
http://www.hotshirts.com

[This message has been edited by wanderlust (edited 10-26-1999).]

Wanderlust:

You've made a great decision deciding to go down there. I loved it!

Presumably, you'll be flying into Lima. There really isn't that much to see there. A day or two at most would be sufficient. When, you fly to Cuzco, get a window seat on the left hand side of the plane as the landing is truly spectacular. It's an hour long flight - so even if you normally get an aisle seat (like me), it won't be all that uncomfortable. Definitely take a pre-paid taxi into town, the touts outside the arrivals area are notorious (like most less economically developed countries.) Cuzco is fabulous and definitely deserves at least three days in itself. Try to get to Pizac - they have a great market - and there are many sites that you can see on the ride out there. As for the trek on the Inca Trail, you will love it - it takes between 4/5 days and a week - depending upon your speed obviously. When you get to Machu Pichu, I would stay in Aguas Calientes - which is the town at the bottom of Machu Pichu where the train from Cuzco stops. There is only one hotel at the top of Machu Pichu and it's only a ten minute drive down to the town. So, there's far more choice of restaurants, bars and hotels at the bottom.

On the return, back to Cuzco, I would suggest that you take the deluxe train, it's more expensive, but it's worth it - I've heard some horror stories about the slower trains.

If you have any more questions, please e-mail me - I would be more than happy to help you!

[This message has been edited by leroy11 (edited 10-26-1999).]

Please post a trip report when you get back, as this is something that is on my List of Things to do Before Eternity...

I first visited Machu Picchu in 1974, during an 11 month journey through Central and South America. When Continental airlines started service to Peru in 1997 my wife and I took advantage of the introductory $400 RT fares.

Leroy11 gives good advice, although we took the regular train, met lots of interesting people from all over the world. Aguas Calientes is the place to stay, the tourist hotel on top is really expensive.

At the ruins take the time to climb Huayana Picchu, the peak that appears in the background of many photos of the ruins. There is a decent trail to the top, about an hour up, the view is spectacular. It's about 1000 meters above the river. Snow peaked mountains in the distance on all sides.

When in Lima check to see if passenger train service has resumed on the Lima-Huancayo route. If you like trains it is one of the most spectacular trips in the world, going from near sea level to over 15,000 feet, the entire trip was during daylight when I last traveled the route in 1980. When the train was traveling on the highest part of the route a man would come through the cars with an oxygen bottle for anyone who needed it.

The trip overland on to Cuzco is a real adventure, I've done it twice, I have lots of stories!

There are lots of good guide books about Peru, we used the Lonely Planet on the recent trip.

Feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions.


[This message has been edited by Old Gold (edited 10-26-1999).]

Having not taken the regular train, I don't think I should have said what I did. I think the main difference between the two is that the "deluxe" one is quicker. But, the local one definitely gives better interaction with Peruvian people which is definitely something you want if you have time!

One thing to keep in mind if you decide to take the more expensive one: sometimes, the train company decides to run 2 deluxe trains a day instead of one if there is demand. This means that the train does not go all the way from Cuzco to Aguas Calientes. Rather, they put you in a bus and drive you as far as they can. You then pick up the train half way. This allows them to make two trips a day instead of the one. This is to be avoided if you can ...

Definitely post a trip report when you get back if you don't mind - I would love to hear about your experiences too. If I can remember the names of any of the good hotels / restaurants that my friends and I stayed / dined at down there, I'll definitely post them or e-mail them to you.

Machu Pichu is truly one of the wonders of the world. I, too, took advantage when CO opened service to get there. I agree that there is not much to see in Lima. Cusco is fun to wander around in. If you will not be spending much time in the countrside, then I would advise the opposite of the last poster. On the return, I would try to get on the cars that only go to Ollyantetambo( probably spelled wrong). I found the bus ride from there back to Cusco intereting and a free way to get to see more of the countryside. Also, they took us right to our hotel. Have a great time!

You will enjoy this, it's a great destination and still not too many tourists around there. The recent collapse of Aero Peru and the uncertaintity about domestic flights back in May this year has kept group tour operators cautious about Peru.

I did unfortunately not have the time to do the Inca trail when I visited in May this year, but talked to various people there who were all very exited about it. The Huayana Picchu climb is a must. I took the tourist train between Cuzco and Agua Calientes and would recommend it, the other one takes a lot of time and I think there are more exiting things to do and better ways to meet the locals. I would have loved to take the helicopter to return from Aguas Calientes, but unfortunately it was sold out that day. No miles to earn, but I think this ancient army model flying back along the Inca trail should be quite some experience.

From Cuzco took the train to Puno at Lake Titicaca. A beautiful full day train ride and a great time visiting some of the very interesting islands in Lake Titicaca.

Another great area I visited is Arequipa and its surroundings, a cheap and short hop from Puno on Aerocontinente and from there severeal connections a day back to Lima.

As it has been said before, don't spend much time in Lima. Not much to see there and the city is often covered by ugly yellow fog.

wanderlust: I'm so proud of you, making it to one of my "must do before I'm dust" places: the Amazon.

Please post lots of fun trip reports while you are there and be nice to the rare cats in the Amazon. Idiot people kill them for coats.

Be well bruddar and we'll toast your adventures at the PIP!

I would highly recommend Gringo Billls in Aguas Caliente as a place too stay. Great place to stay and the hot springs are a quater mile away. Make sure you see the sunrise from Machu Picchu. You are in for some wonderful experiences, Peru is blowaway. Have a great trip.

------------------

Uncle 1K:

I totally agree with you. I stayed there too - friendly staff, comfortable, close to everything ...

I was in Cuzco in June '95 for the Inti Rami (spelling completely screwed up), which is the Inca solstice festival. The most colorful event I've ever seen in my life. The catholic festival of Corpus Christi fell at the same time, adding to the excitement.

If one can schedule their trip to Peru at that time of the year, I recommend the festival withour hesitation. Oh yeah BTW, Machu Picchu was incredible.

Cuzco is in my top five world-wide cities.

Wanderlust: Why don't you ask for other people's impressions of Gringo Bills?

[This message has been edited by Dr. PfP (edited 10-29-1999).]

Terrific. This is great advice. I'll have to share my experiences with you. Thanks for all of your helpful advice!

So, Doc, how about that Gringo Bills?? :-)

------------------
Aloooha!
http://www.hotshirts.com