Originally Posted by Jimmie Jet

The short answer is V=IR

Originally Posted by YVR Cockroach

If you're really, really adventurous, you could plug your lamp into the range, dryer or over range microwave/extractor fan socket since that's 240V. Unfortunately most of those sockets are probably already in use and multi-adapters are not exactly easy to find.

Originally Posted by ajGoes

I a 220v circuit to my kitchen counter, complete with UK outlet (for authenticity, you understand), so I can boil water in thirty seconds as God intended.

Originally Posted by FliesWay2Much

The wiring will be sufficient as well because it was sized to carry a certain maximum current (amps). It's most likely sized to somewhere between 15-20 amps. U.S. wall outlets are most often 15 amps. That's a long explanation to say that you don't have to worry about the wiring inside the lamp.

Originally Posted by FliesWay2Much

The travel adapter is perfectly OK to use. The wiring will be sufficient as well because it was sized to carry a certain maximum current (amps). It's most likely sized to somewhere between 15-20 amps. U.S. wall outlets are most often 15 amps. That's a long explanation to say that you don't have to worry about the wiring inside the lamp.

Thanks to Georg Ohm and James Watt, we know that the European 220v bulb being run on U.S. electicity will shine about 1/2 as bright as in Europe.

My guess is that the dimmer switch rating of 220v refers to the input voltage. It can safely handle a lower input voltage. If it's a basic dimmer switch (and not solid state), it's simply a big variable resistor. It will work more efficiently in the U.S. because it doesn't have to dissipate as much heat with an input voltage of 110v.

If you would like to PM me with pictures of the ID plates of the lamp and dimmer (if there are two), I can give it a quick look to make sure I'm not missing anything. If the FT PM system doesn't take attachments, PM me your email address and we can handle things that way. I can take a quick look at the rating panel and let you know if the wiring and other hardware is OK for the U.S.. In my day job, I work with folks from the Italian Space Agency. If they make lamps like they make satellites, I wouldn't worry.

I think the easiest thing to do would be to try to find 110v bulbs with European fittings that meet your requirements. If you find the bulbs, buy lots of them so you won't have to worry about running out of replacements anytime soon.

Originally Posted by YVR Cockroach

If you're really, really adventurous, you could plug your lamp into the range, dryer or over range microwave/extractor fan socket since that's 240V. Unfortunately most of those sockets are probably already in use and multi-adapters are not exactly easy to find.



Just a cautionary note that Ohm's law cannot be applied totally to AC current as it can be to DC. My physics was never strong enough to understand.

Originally Posted by ajGoes

I a 220v circuit to my kitchen counter, complete with UK outlet (for authenticity, you understand), so I can boil water in thirty seconds as God intended.

Originally Posted by YVR Cockroach

Just wonder how you got 220V? Does your local utility actually still use 110V? I figured out how it was done when I put in a whole circuit surge protector in my new house, and then wired in a septic field dispersal pump.

Originally Posted by ajGoes

No, I was thinking old school. Of course it's a 240v circuit. You don't want to know the gory details, but the installation involved a lot of cussing as I realized I had to replace a little sub-panel to accommodate a second circuit breaker.

Originally Posted by nomad1972

Most EU spec lamps come with a CEE 7/16 plug (europlug). The rating of molded CEE 7/16 cords and cables is 250V/2.5A.

Replacing the plug with a US spec one still leaves you with a cable rated at 2.5A. Will it work at double the current? Most likely it will, but do you really want to take a chance?

Originally Posted by gfunkdave

nomad1972 is correct. You need to figure out what gauge wiring they used in the lamp (and convert it from whatever system they use in Europe to AWG - American Wire Gauge). You'll likely need at least 14AWG (that is, an AWG of 14 or smaller - wires get larger the smaller the AWG number) in your lamp.

Divide the lamp wattage by the US 120 V to get the current you will draw. If it's greater than 2 you'll need to get the lamp rewired. This is the best and safest course of action. The reason it's 2A and not 2.5 as mentioned is that for continuous current the max is 80% of the rated capacity. Pulling the full 2.5A continuously may make the wiring hot enough to start a fire (possibly - that's why the NEC specifies the 80% de-rating).

I can't imagine that the European standard would be anything thinner that 18AWG -- common lamp cord.

Rewiring a lamp is not a difficult project (it involves connecting two wires) and you can get the supplies (and US bulb socket) from Home Depot or a lighting store.

I took a look at the OP's link to the picture of the lamp and I think rewiring that lamp would be a non-trivial exercise given its design.

Originally Posted by YVR Cockroach

No 1/2 height/width circuit breakers (which some do not like using)? That saved me from having to install a sub panel.

Originally Posted by ajGoes

It's been a long time since I did the installation, but I don't imagine Square D offers a 50/30 amp double-pole combination breaker.