Add high powered wireless router / access point to DSL Modem
 

Right now I am limited to using AT&T DSL service at home. The amount of bandwidth we get is limited (about 2.6MB down) due to really lousy copper in my neighborhood. Maybe someday AT&T will get around to putting in fiber, but its a high cost venture for them, as utilities are underground (and switching to Time Warner Cable is the last thing I want to do).

I had been using an Actiontec router for my system, and with a 9db gain antenna on it I was able to stream well to other devices in the house. Furthest device away from my modem is about 80 feet to a Blu-Ray player in a den, but there are three walls in between. Early this year I began getting notices from AT&T about open DNS ports in my modem, and after research found out the Actiontec is not one of the most secured devices. So I took the easy way out and bought a DSL modem from AT&T (Netgear 7550), assuming any further problems that came up security-wise, AT&T would be responsible for curing.

The problem with this modem is the wireless signal strength drops off much faster as distance increases, then the Actiontec with or without the high db antenna. And the Netgear does not have a port to add an external antenna. My guess is if I was able to add the external 9db antenna to it that is laying around, signal would be fine throughout the house.

My thought is to buy a high powered wireless router or access point, and put it near the modem (I've got a high spot where I can run Ethernet cable about 15 feet to give it a better shot to the rest of the house). Question is what should I buy? I'd like to limit cost to maybe $75. Vaguely recall years ago I added a wireless router to another modem I had from AT&T, and ran into DHCP problems.

What should I be ordering from Amazon for this configuration that will give me more distance (plus the option to add a higher gain antenna)? Seems like a high powered access point is overkill.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Nowdays, it's really "sad" to rely upon and use old copper tech a/k/a analog & DSL services but, we waited 5 years for Fios & had TWC for 2 years so I hear ya - and I was traveling more before so seldom had time for solutions.

Have you check & try different channel(s) and eliminate interference from nearby sources? Can you relocate the modem/router to a better & higher location - without resorting to adding a 2nd. AP/router to run in bridge or repeaer mode, and to configure them ? is your line conditioned & max'd out on speed based on distance to the CO/relay or remote terminal serving your node? Trying to not venture way too deep & far away as one of the MOD reminded us all, this is primary a travel forum & not a tech & troubleshooting site on how to rebuild a VPN ... :D

There is a lot of resources here devoted to & dedicated for, often with solutions, AT&T services as ISP and there is also ISP Direct Forum with customer care online to monitor lines & escalate trouble tickets, etc. I suggest doing some reading & signing up to pose some questions and see what the geeks have to offer, free & prompt advice, on your particulars. www.dslreports.com is one of "our" best friends.

Thanks for the ideas.

One thing I did do is play around with changing channels (downloaded a couple of apps on my phone to test). The modem was set on automatic channel selection, and after a number of tries I decided to lock it on channel 11 for now. While the difference may not be material or is within a margin of error, it does look like the signal strength at the Blu-Ray player has improved by about 3db (from -80 to -77). I'll check it again later tonight to see if those numbers hold up.

Yes I realize this is a travel bulletin board, but I want to make sure as I'm traveling around my house, I maintain connectivity. Never know when I'll need to book a mileage run while on my patio! ;)

WiFi interference is a common problem at home and those who travel, so ask away! Incidentally, do you see any Wifi channels in your 'hood that aren't on channels 1,6, or 11? If so, they're interfering with your Wifi. Here's the answer to your next logical question.

An inexpensive way that I addressed the coverage problem in my home was to purchase a cheap access point and flash it to run DD-WRT. I then setup that new access point as a DD-WRT Repeater Bridge. Finding a DD-WRT compatible AP is easy, but all of the setup is a multi-hour project for the average bear.

Depending on what phone you have or computer, you can get a nice wifi analyzer for free and find a channel where there isn't a lot of competition. then, just try changing your router to one of the less used channels. The wireless router you are using MIGHT have an admin console that would allow it to increase output power? Have you looked for that maybe?

Otherwise, you can easily add a more powerful wireless router to the modem/router, turning the wireless router portion of the modem/router OFF and using it to only deliver one DHCP address to the wireless router, or you could allow it to still do all the dynamic IP routing, but it would probably be better to use those features on the new wireless router, since they are most likely going to be much better..

BEST thing would be to just get an AT&T modem, no router and then hook that up directly to the new wireless router.

I had a problem similar to the OP where the modem and router were at one end of the home and the signal strength was poor at the other end. I solved the problem by using pair of power line adapters, one connected to the ISP router and the other power line adapter was in the room with poor signal strength and I then connected my wireless router in AP mode to the second power line adapter.

Wifi access points are all limited in power by the FCC. I'd focus on getting one that has a decent antenna. I've had good experiences with the Asus RT-N12, N16, and N66u - especially after putting the free and excellent Tomato firmware on them.

The Asus RT-AC66U is a very impressive router in terms of distance.

It is probably overkill for your needs but I use a Cradlepoint MBR 1400 router at home. It has performed well for me in a sprawling urban loft and suburban settings. The antennae are replaceable and the stock articulated ones are large and, I think, 5db gain. It is regularly being updated despite being 3 years old now. Supports cellular modems and multiple internal networks. Edit: didn't see the OP budget... MBR1400 is over $300 :(

For a decent WiFi analyzer for Android try the Meraki one.

The N12 is very attractively priced ($40), and offers a number of mode options. I'll study the specs and seriously consider ordering it. While I've never had an Asus router, any product I've bought from that company has been a success.

I'm wondering if the new Netgear box is using the 5GHz band where the old one was using 2.4GHz. The 5GHz band is faster but the signal drops off a lot faster. Is your Netgear 7550 configurable in any way along these lines (i.e. having an option for separate SSIDs for 2.4GHz and 5GHz)? First thing I'd try before buying any more hardware is ensuring the Bluray player is connecting at 2.4GHz.

The Netgear is single band (2.4GHz).

Did manage to watch a Netflix episode of Orange Is The New Black last night on the distant Blu-ray, without buffering. However the picture resolution was automatically dropped down to SD. From checking with my Android apps, the stream speed next to the Blu-Ray was about 1.2MB (assuming that is accurate).

It's 1000% better with Tomato but my understanding is that the stock Asus firmware is fine.

Regardless of the hardware you decide on, it is not a good practice to put a router behind another router.

The easiest solution is to add an access point to the existing router. Many routers can be put into access mode or you can get a dedicated access point.

For instructions, do a google search of "use router as access point".

On DSL (as I am @ 3Mb down max.) unfortunately Netflix streams will often be in 480SD or 720HD. You'll never be able to stream in 1080P as that requires at least 5mb usually more. It's also incredibly hard to track down problems, as ISPs and Netflix itself can often throttle the data during busier times - 6:00PM - 10:00PM for me is always a nightmare and I'm lucky if I can get 480. I've used wired and wireless connections on both a PS3 and Oppo BDP-103 with very similar results for each.

Incidentally what type of BR player are you using? Some of them have notoriously bad wireless cards in them. I guess my point is that if you're getting a signal to the player at all and don't drop the connection, the addition of a second or strong WAP is not likely to help.