Kalboz

Just in case the above hyperlink isn't working:

NPR.org, August 30, 2007 · The well-heeled visitor can eat very well in Bangkok — in fancy surroundings, at tastefully appointed fusion restaurants, with the attentive, sometimes fawning service many have come to expect on a visit to the Far East.

But where's the fun in that?

Instead, make a pilgrimage to a more modest eatery, Chote Chitr, for what is likely to be some of the best Thai food you've ever eaten.

The family-owned hole-in-the-wall has just five tables. There's a fan overhead and two Shih Tzus and a small Chihuahua underfoot, who belong to Tim Krachoichuli, the restaurant's owner.

The menu is written on the wall in Thai — most of it, anyway. Krachoichuli says there are about 400 items on the menu, and she'll take requests, too.

Her grandfather opened the place more than 90 years ago, and it's been at the same location — near the Democracy Monument — ever since. It's one of the few parts of Bangkok where zoning restrictions have put limits on development.

The result is a delightfully pleasant neighborhood of two-story houses and shops that retains much of the flavor of turn-of-the-century Bangkok, far from the traffic and pollution-choked sois, or side streets, of central Sukhumvit Road.

Though a little tricky to find, Chote Chitr is enormously popular with middle-class Thais and foreigners, too. And the framed reviews on the walls from the latter — including the late gourmet R.W. Apple of The New York Times — speak volumes about the food, which is easy to consume in great volume.

In my case, I did it with a little help from my friend and colleague, photographer Chris "Will Work for Food" Brown. We went at about 2 in the afternoon — a good time to beat the crowds that otherwise pack the place at lunchtime or dinner, when a wait for a table is pretty much guaranteed.

We started with the kaotang nahtang, a simple rice cake with what looked like Thai salsa on the side, until you dip and discover the "salsa" is really a rich, red mix of coconut milk, shrimp, pork, onions, salt and sugar.

Chote Chitr is known for two dishes in particular: banana flower salad and mee krob. Both were sublime. The banana flower salad is made from chicken, shrimp and the shredded flower from the banana tree, seasoned with coconut milk, lemon juice and chilies.

Krachoichuli explained that her banana flower salad is better because other restaurants boil their banana flowers beforehand. Ours, she says, are made fresh every morning.

I have no idea what that means, but I know it was delicious — as were the mee krob noodles, which are at once crunchy, sticky, spicy and sweet and are seasoned with lemongrass, lemon juice and other tangy Thai citrus.

The prik king — dried pork with green beans in a red curry sauce with salt fish, sugar, water and oil — was an unexpected pleasure. The duck with red curry was also outstanding, with tiny Thai eggplant and Thai basil. The sleeper of the bunch was the dried yellow curry with Thai celery, shrimp, coconut milk, eggs and a little prik pao, or chili, paste.

None of the dishes was overwhelmingly spicy. Instead, they struck a near-perfect balance between sweet and sour, spicy and bland. And none — not even the dried pork or duck curries — seemed heavy. Krachoichuli says that's because she uses less oil in her dishes than most.

The only thing I didn't like was the fried rice with dry shrimp. The secret ingredient, preserved eggs, is popular with Thais and ethnic Chinese throughout Southeast Asia, but it wasn't for me — too pungent, too overpowering, but easily rectified with a healthy pull on an ice-cold Singha beer.

All the cooking is done on a couple of small burners in the back of the eatery. Krachoichuli takes your order and prepares it, too — except for the salads, such as the signature banana flower salad.

"My sister does those," Krachoichuli says. "She's just better at it."

Fifty-four-year-old Krachoichuli and her two sisters do everything: the shopping, cooking and cleaning. There are no plans to expand; she fears the quality of the food would suffer.

And when they grow tired of doing this, she says, that'll be it for the restaurant, too. There are no husbands, no children, no heirs — and no plans to sell the business to anyone else.

Get here fast and enjoy it while you can. It won't cost much, either. We ate until we couldn't. A staggering 10 entrees, including an enormous wok-fried fish, two large Singhas and a simple dessert set us back less than $25 — for two.

Chote Chitr — 146 Soi Phraeng Phuton (just off Thanon Tanao road, near the Democracy Monument), Bangkok, Thailand. Open Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m. until 10 p.m. Telephone: 66-2-221-408.

yosithezet

Try this one: http://tinyurl.com/42hkq4

Kalboz

Thank you yosithezet ... you are awesome.

macabus

It's actually the White Elephant, and it is very good indeed.

It was closed during my last two trips in Nov and Dec due to low occupancy, but it's supposed to re-open next week. Just in time for my next trip.

Omyai

Here is my 2 cents worth. I have an office in Bangkok and am there at least 4 times a year. For the past 5 years or I have taken visiting customers to Baan Klang Nam (Rama III Soi 1 - http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...1-Bangkok.html) and have always been pleased with the food, service and ambience.

Baan Klang Nam is on the Chao Phyra river just below the suspension bridge, thus having a memorable view, but the real "deal maker" is the food. Always excellent. An added bonus, if you really want to make the occasion special is that they have a dock and you can charter a long-tail at river hotels or at the Thaksin Bridge are to take your group there by water.

yosithezet

On Sunday I ate lunch at Big Mama Pizzeria. I ordered Mushroom risotto and Baked Mussels in wine sauce. Both were very good. The mussels were backed in a clay pot with a thin piece of dough over the top I had to break through to get to the mussels. The dough was like a thin pizza dough and it was excellent for sopping up the juices the mussels cooked in. The decor is very nice. The music was wonderful. It seems they have business lunches which include a drink as well.

139 Asok Soi 1, Sukhumvit 21, Khiongtoey Nua
Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand
Tel: +61 2259 0232

I've added it to the Google Map and also created a tinyurl for the Google Map as http://tinyurl.com/BKKEats

dsquared37

I first ate at Chote Chitr a few years ago based upon this review:

http://www.nytimes.com/2005/10/12/di...bangkok&st=cse

It is still quite good but there has been a lapse in food quality. Do I recommend it still? Absolutely. It's well priced for the quality of food.

yosithezet

Every trip I mean to head there, based on the review. Every trip I don't make it.

alanw

I'm resolving to make it in a few weeks' time. I've done the same last two trips. This time for sure.

paul2

Thanks everyone, this is a great thread. I think I will try Chote Chitr next month when I'm in BKK. I will continue reading here for more suggestions as I dont want to eat in any hotels this trip.

MegatopLover

Let us know what you think about Chote Chitr, paul2. I'm always on the hunt for new dining spots in Bangkok.

KosraeTV

It's good, worth the price. Not perfect but I do not mind paying the bill when it comes. I have been there a few times and not once have I thought that I would not return.

billp

I recently took a Thai friend to Chote Chitr. She took one look at the kitchen on the way to the toilet, told me she thought it was filthy, and refused to take one bite of the food I had ordered!

KosraeTV

Then I guess they never would eat vendor food on the street

billp

The same friend has never shown any such qualms about street food, so the implication is, she found it dirtier than a street food stand.