The Pamir Highway (Tajikistan & Kyrgyzstan) with TK/Air Astana/Air Manas
Oct 20, 2019, 1:27 pm
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: LAS/SIN
Programs: TK E+, AS Gold
Posts: 67
The Pamir Highway (Tajikistan & Kyrgyzstan) with TK/Air Astana/Air Manas
For the average FTer, the prospect of going on a 7-day, 1,700km road trip through some of the highest and roughest terrain on Earth, with no guarantee of a shower or WiFi, would seem crazy. Many of the greatest road trips -- Route 66, Karakorum, Transfagarasan, Yungas -- have been well-documented. But as far as epic road trips go, the Pamir Highway stands on a league of its own.
Once part of the ancient Silk Road, the Pamir Highway traverses through four Stans, connecting Afghanistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Kyrgyzstan. Its most important function is to connect Tajikistan's Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region (GBAO) with the capital, Dushanbe, and northwards to Osh, the second-largest city and economic center of southern Kyrgyzstan.
Not our actual route: After Khorog, we continued south to Ishkashim along the Afghan border and the Panj river in the Wakhan Valley. Note that there is no standard on the spelling of city names in Tajikistan.
Introduction
Like all great MRs and trip reports, my story began with an excess of time, a lack of productivity, and a curiosity of finding an adventure that would help knock another country off the every-country-in-the-world bucket list (if you're playing the numbers game, Tajikistan was #74). After bumming around at my childhood home in Singapore for a week, I had calls to visit friends in Malaysia, Vietnam, and the Philippines -- destinations that I wasn't entirely excited about repeating. I get it, I've been spoiled growing up in Southeast Asia!
So as any sane person would do, I looked to the countries I had yet to cross off the bucket list: PNG, East Timor, Brunei... and as I continued to play around with ITA Matrix and the map on Google Flights, Tajikistan caught my eye.
Four years ago, I embarked on my first solo backpacking trip as a then-college student. I found myself, of all places, in Almaty, Kazakhstan. Along with Kyrgyzstan, and two years later, Turkmenistan, it seemed timely to make another trip back to Central Asia. All I knew about Tajikistan up to this point was the Tajik diaspora, opium, and its effective dictatorship. A bit of research revealed much more than just a landlocked country where mountains cover 93% of its surface. Having lived near sea level my entire life, reading about the Fann Mountains and Pamirs made Tajikistan a logical choice for a big city dweller like myself: something less touristy and off the beaten path than the likes of Bukhara, Khiva or Samarkand.
Planning
I'll preface by saying that pre-planning a trip through the Pamirs is not for the faint-hearted. In the days leading up to my departure, I was working against the clock with no visa in hand, potential weather issues with end-of-season travel, and finding other last-minute, intrepid travelers to partake on this adventure.
As a visitor, the only logical time to drive the Pamir Highway is during the summer. With many parts of the highway traversing through terrain in excess of 4,000 m (13,123 ft), snow and cold can make things miserable very, very quickly. Then, there were a multitude of other questions to consider. Self-drive or hire a car and driver? Dushanbe to Osh or Osh to Dushanbe? 7 days or 8 days? Where would we be staying every night? Would altitude sickness be an issue?
I left these questions all to chance, and told myself that I would figure all of it out once I got to Dushanbe. And sure enough, everything came together in the most unexplainable, but perfect, way possible. One traveler reached out via WhatsApp after seeing my post on Caravanistan looking for travelers departing Dushanbe ASAP. Another was referred by a contact that fell through at the last-minute. Neither were in Dushanbe at the time, and our car and driver was organized by a hostel across town. Less than 24 hours later, we were in a Lexus RX470 headed out of Dushanbe. All we had negotiated was an 8-day trip for $900 (split three ways), without the slightest clue of where we'd be staying each night.
Ultimately, our itinerary looked like this:
Day 1: Dushanbe-Kulai Khumb
Day 2: Kulaikhumb-Bartang Valley (Jizeu/Jizef)
Day 3: Bartang Valley (Jizeu/Jizef)-Khorog-Ishkashim
Day 4: Ishkashim-Langar
Day 5: Langar-Bulunkul-Murghab
Day 6: Murghab-Karakul-Ak Baital-Sary Tash-Sary Mogul (Kyrgyzstan)
Day 7: Sary Mogul-Lenin Peak-Osh*
* We had planned to stay a night at a yurt camp in Lenin Peak, but ended up deciding to cut the overnight and drive straight to Osh because of the cold.
Flights
With a little help from ExpertFlyer, Astana was the cheapest Central Asian destination that had J class availability. So, for $534, I booked JFT-IST-TSE and called in to upgrade both legs using a one of my TK Elite Plus upgrade vouchers. To get to Dushanbe, I had my eyes set on an Air Astana connection via Almaty and a 4.5 hour overnight layover in TSE. The Y fare was going for about $180 but when I tried to pay, all Y inventory zeroed out, leaving me with a J-only option that cost $400. Far more than I would have liked to pay, but with all other alternatives including flying TK directly to DYU coming out to be all over $1k, I settled for the J itinerary.
In the end, my outbound itinerary looked like this:
1. JFK-IST-TSE (TK J)
2. TSE-ALA-DYU (Air Astana J)
Because I had no idea when I would start or end the drive, I held off on booking my return flights until the penultimate day of the drive, when I had 3G after crossing into Kyrgyzstan. I generally had two options to get out of Osh. The easiest would have been a daily Aeroflot flight to SVO that would connect seamlessly to JFK (and at sub-$500, this was a solid deal). But with two TK Elite Plus upgrade vouchers expiring at the end of the year, I looked again for J class availability out of FRU, and found availability to ATL, BOS and MIA. With BOS and MIA pricing out at over $900, I booked, for $700, a one-way ticket to ATL on the new 787-9 and applied another Elite Plus upgrade voucher for all segments. Fortunately, the TK segments booked into Q class which earned me 100% RDM/EQMs with TK.
To get to FRU from OSS, I had the option of taking a 10-12 hour shared taxi or a 40-minute flight on one of Kyrgyzstan's three domestic airlines: Tez Jet, Avia Traffic Company or Air Manas. Domestic fares were reasonably priced between $30 and $60, so I booked for $44, Air Manas since they were the cheapest morning option. Pegasus once owned a 49% stake in Air Manas and had big plans for expansion, but their Central Asia foray largely flopped and Air Manas is now down to a single ex-Pegasus 737-400 classic plying their sole OSS-FRU route a few times daily.
Finally, to get back to NY, I redeemed 7.5k LifeMiles for a UA ticket to LGA via ORD.
3. OSS-FRU (Air Manas Y)
4. FRU-IST-ATL (TK J)
5. ATL-ORD-LGA (UA Y)
Two weeks. 17,867 miles BIS.
I will be publishing this TR in a few parts over the next few days. All photos were taken on my iPhone without any editing, so please excuse my novice photography skills and sizing of pictures. Comments are always appreciated, and thanks for following along!
3 October
The day started with a frantic scramble to pack and pick up some last-minute supplies from the REI store in SoHo in preparation for the trip. I had arrived less than 24 hours ago from Singapore (thank you, Alaska, for my favorite CX award) and had a day before I set off for Asia, again. I took a Lyft to JFK and arrived just as check-in was closing. At security, TSA PRE was printed on my BP, but when the agent scanned my BP, the system apparently did not recognize PreCheck and I was left to take everything out of my bag. "Oh that's weird. I haven't seen this one before. No PreCheck for you!"
Being the usual zoo T1 was at the late evening hour, it took a solid 20 minutes to get through security in the priority lane. Once through, I made my way to the perfectly forgettable LH Business Lounge. The lounge dragon announced a 30-minute delay to boarding due to the late arrival of aircraft (though in reality, it was due to gate space), as is typical of the midnight hour and in particular, T1. Boarding finally started at 12:45am, with a full load in both J and Y.
JFK-IST
Turkish Airlines TK12
00:10-16:50
333
As far as eastbound transatlantic flights go, JFK-IST is probably the shortest flight that still allows some number of hours of sleep that doesn't leave you feeling drained by the end of the next day. TK12 departs at a sleep-conducive time, but rarely departs on-time. Today's flight was no exception.
My seatmate today was flying TK J for the very first time. The FAs were quite amused at all the picture taking, IG stories, and Snaps, and gladly indulged my seatmate with one of each welcome drink.
Amenity kits and menus were distributed shortly after the door closed. The Versace kits are, in my opinion, a marked improvement to the old Molton Brown kits and are far more practical for storing toiletries. Tonight's menu featured TK's usual potpourri of seafood and swordfish, which I've had far too many times by now. I always find ex-JFK Do & Co catering to be less than stellar compared to other outstations.
Main course: grilled swordfish.
Lights were turned on 3 hours prior to arrival and breakfast started with the standard fare of the fruit plate.
Followed by a disgusting egg dish that had the consistency of soup. All I had was one bite, saving the rest of my appetite for the lounge.
Despite the hour delay on departure, we landed in IST on-time. Deplaning was poorly organized, with ground staff directing passengers up the escalators to transit security and immigration instead of airside as is the norm for ex-US arrivals. After a very long walk, I had to go through transit security again before heading to the business lounge.
IST-TSE
Turkish Airlines TK354
18:40-02:25 (+1)
73J
After a quick shower and a bite at the lounge, I was onboard TK354 to Astana. Today's flight would be operated by a 737-900ER, a swap from the originally scheduled 737-800 with improved pitch. With a load of just 3/16, service was quick and fantastic.
Dinner, once again, started with the familiar seafood selection. I didn't take an image of the main.
Dinner service was completed in an hour (I was the only passenger eating), and soon after, lights were dimmed for the remaining 3 hours to Astana.
4 October
Astana-Almaty-Dushanbe
We arrived 30 minutes early and immigration was seamless. After a short wait for my bag, I then headed to the domestic terminal for my Air Astana flight to Almaty.
Walk to the domestic terminal with an outside air temperature of just 1 degree Celsius.
Check-in counters were not open at 2:30am, so I found a quiet spot to wait.
Unfortunately, the air reeked of pollution that was quickly confirmed by a Google search:
At 4am, three hours before departure, I walked over to the Air Astana check-in counters but found it still closed. I took the opportunity to check-out the main atrium.
An ornately decorated terminal ceiling.
Finally, with less than 2 hours prior to departure at 5:15am, Air Astana staff appeared and I was quickly checked-in to Dushanbe via Almaty. Interestingly, some of Air Astana's counters were being used for its LCC, FlyArystan, which opened check-in some three hours prior to departure. Perhaps it was a one-off due to the airline's inaugural to Taraz in southern Kazakhstan that day, but I was surprised that their staff could not check-in Air Astana customers.
After check-in, I headed to the airline's flagship lounge, the Shanyrak Lounge. To describe this lounge as underwhelming would be an understatement, though compared to the Air Astana's domestic lounge offering in Almaty, this lounge seemed like heaven.
Apart from a few snacks, stale croissants, nuts, and apples, there was a small beverage station with canned drinks.
Being the first flight of the day, the lounge was practically empty when I arrived. Still, when I left, there were no more than five passengers in the lounge.
Menu cards were placed at each table detailing the food options available.
Perhaps the greatest welcome came from the three humidifiers scattered throughout the lounge, which relieved the dryness and stench of the air.
Bathrooms were well-appointed and stocked with a surprising array of amenities including combs, razors, and cotton buds.
After an hour in the lounge, I headed to the gate to board one of Air Astana's three 767-300ERs on its busiest route between TSE and ALA. There are no less than 17 daily flights between the capital and former capital and it's always a treat to fly a widebody on a short domestic route.
TSE-ALA
Air Astana KC622
07:00-08:40
763
Despite a lousy ground experience, Air Astana exceeded all expectations in the air. The majority of travelers on this morning's flight appeared to be business travelers. Because the flight was oversold in economy, several passengers received op-ups at the gate.
Business class seats on Air Astana are in a staggered 1-2-1 configuration, broadly similar to what you would find on DL or JL. I had selected 3K, a window seat closer to the window, which offered the perfect amount of privacy despite the narrow seat and footwell.
Cabin and seat.
No less than 30 seconds after I sat down, FAs came by offering welcome drinks. I chose the kompot, which was refreshing and not too sweet.
Menu cards were distributed shortly after along with a separate wine card (for a 7am flight?!). Meal and post-takeoff drink orders were taken on the ground.
We pushed back on-time and the safety video was shown. As far as safety videos go, I have to say that I really liked Air Astana's. You can watch the full video on YouTube
.
Lights were dimmed to deep blue mood lighting for takeoff.
Moving map.
As soon as the double chime sounded, FAs got to work and meal trays were brought out individually 15 minutes after takeoff. The entire meal was excellent and the entire service was completed 45 minutes after takeoff. Talk about efficiency!
Arrival into Almaty was on-schedule, and after a quick walk to the international terminal, I was back airside for my flight to DYU. I was last in ALA four years ago, and the crowding and lounge situation hasn't changed one bit. For such a great airline, the ground experience that Air Astana offers leaves a lot to be desired.
Air Astana's domestic lounge in ALA consists of a partitioned room that simply permits entry into the space. All snacks and drinks must be purchased separately from the bar. While the sofas and couches are more comfortable than the overcrowded terminal, there is nothing about the space that makes it a "lounge."
ALA-DYU
Air Astana KC131
10:05-11:00
E90
Boarding commenced on-time from gate 1B, a bus gate that departed one floor below the jetway gates. As far as I could tell, economy was full (a large group of students from India were on the flight), though the load in business was only 4/9.
The ride to our E-190 passed by one of FlyArystan's two A320s.
Our E-190 that would take us to DYU today. Air Astana recently began taking delivery of E190-E2s to replace their E-190 fleet.
Legroom was similar to what you would get on US regionals.
Like the previous flight, lunch was a three-course affair served on a single tray. Drink refills were offered liberally and the overall quality was again top-notch.
Descending through the mountains into DYU.
Arrival into Dushanbe was a pretty straightforward experience. I already had an eVisa in hand so getting through immigration was smooth. The sole official taxi stand in the baggage claim area was unstaffed, so after being mobbed by drivers in the arrivals hall, I negotiated a fare of 40 somoni ($4) with one of the drivers to the City Hostel. That was probably 50% more than I should have paid, but with no other taxis in sight, that was the best option I had.
After a quick shower and nap, I met two travelers at the hostel who had already spent some time in Dushanbe. One was about to embark on a 20+ day cycling trip through the Pamir Highway and the other was a full-time nomad slowly making his way through Central Asia. We all had a fantastic dinner at a Turkish restaurant by the hostel and after messaging two prospective travel companions, I felt much more confident about the prospects of finding at least two additional people to hire a car and driver for the Pamir Highway.
On our way back, we got a glimpse of the president's convoy racing down the streets to his birthday party. Tajikistan has only had one president since the dissolution of the Soviet Union and his image was in full display around the city (and country).
5 October
Exploring Dushanbe
The main order of the day was to find additional people to split the cost of a car and driver. By noon, I had two additional people more or less confirmed and the contact of a driver who agreed to drive us to Osh in eight days, departing the next day for $900 all-in. Split three ways plus the cost of accommodation and meals en-route, we were looking at just under $450 per person, which seemed like a great deal compared to numerous other $1k+ quotes I'd received in the preceding days.
After a quick visit to the other main hostel in town, I met up with my travel companions for lunch and a quick walk around Dushanbe.
In the afternoon, we stopped by the Afghan Market on the western side of the city. We originally intended to go to a different market in the south, but mistakingly ended up at the Afghan Market where we were very visibly the only non-local visitors.
Some freakishly large melons on display.
After confirming details of our departure the next day with our driver, we set out for a departing meal of something we knew we wouldn't have on the road for the next week -- a Latin American-Italian fusion restaurant, followed by baklava and tea at a Turkish restaurant by the hostel. With a last-minute supermarket run for supplies and a visit to the ATM, we were all set to go.
Once part of the ancient Silk Road, the Pamir Highway traverses through four Stans, connecting Afghanistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Kyrgyzstan. Its most important function is to connect Tajikistan's Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region (GBAO) with the capital, Dushanbe, and northwards to Osh, the second-largest city and economic center of southern Kyrgyzstan.
Not our actual route: After Khorog, we continued south to Ishkashim along the Afghan border and the Panj river in the Wakhan Valley. Note that there is no standard on the spelling of city names in Tajikistan.
Introduction
Like all great MRs and trip reports, my story began with an excess of time, a lack of productivity, and a curiosity of finding an adventure that would help knock another country off the every-country-in-the-world bucket list (if you're playing the numbers game, Tajikistan was #74). After bumming around at my childhood home in Singapore for a week, I had calls to visit friends in Malaysia, Vietnam, and the Philippines -- destinations that I wasn't entirely excited about repeating. I get it, I've been spoiled growing up in Southeast Asia!
So as any sane person would do, I looked to the countries I had yet to cross off the bucket list: PNG, East Timor, Brunei... and as I continued to play around with ITA Matrix and the map on Google Flights, Tajikistan caught my eye.
Four years ago, I embarked on my first solo backpacking trip as a then-college student. I found myself, of all places, in Almaty, Kazakhstan. Along with Kyrgyzstan, and two years later, Turkmenistan, it seemed timely to make another trip back to Central Asia. All I knew about Tajikistan up to this point was the Tajik diaspora, opium, and its effective dictatorship. A bit of research revealed much more than just a landlocked country where mountains cover 93% of its surface. Having lived near sea level my entire life, reading about the Fann Mountains and Pamirs made Tajikistan a logical choice for a big city dweller like myself: something less touristy and off the beaten path than the likes of Bukhara, Khiva or Samarkand.
Planning
I'll preface by saying that pre-planning a trip through the Pamirs is not for the faint-hearted. In the days leading up to my departure, I was working against the clock with no visa in hand, potential weather issues with end-of-season travel, and finding other last-minute, intrepid travelers to partake on this adventure.
As a visitor, the only logical time to drive the Pamir Highway is during the summer. With many parts of the highway traversing through terrain in excess of 4,000 m (13,123 ft), snow and cold can make things miserable very, very quickly. Then, there were a multitude of other questions to consider. Self-drive or hire a car and driver? Dushanbe to Osh or Osh to Dushanbe? 7 days or 8 days? Where would we be staying every night? Would altitude sickness be an issue?
I left these questions all to chance, and told myself that I would figure all of it out once I got to Dushanbe. And sure enough, everything came together in the most unexplainable, but perfect, way possible. One traveler reached out via WhatsApp after seeing my post on Caravanistan looking for travelers departing Dushanbe ASAP. Another was referred by a contact that fell through at the last-minute. Neither were in Dushanbe at the time, and our car and driver was organized by a hostel across town. Less than 24 hours later, we were in a Lexus RX470 headed out of Dushanbe. All we had negotiated was an 8-day trip for $900 (split three ways), without the slightest clue of where we'd be staying each night.
Ultimately, our itinerary looked like this:
Day 1: Dushanbe-Kulai Khumb
Day 2: Kulaikhumb-Bartang Valley (Jizeu/Jizef)
Day 3: Bartang Valley (Jizeu/Jizef)-Khorog-Ishkashim
Day 4: Ishkashim-Langar
Day 5: Langar-Bulunkul-Murghab
Day 6: Murghab-Karakul-Ak Baital-Sary Tash-Sary Mogul (Kyrgyzstan)
Day 7: Sary Mogul-Lenin Peak-Osh*
* We had planned to stay a night at a yurt camp in Lenin Peak, but ended up deciding to cut the overnight and drive straight to Osh because of the cold.
Flights
With a little help from ExpertFlyer, Astana was the cheapest Central Asian destination that had J class availability. So, for $534, I booked JFT-IST-TSE and called in to upgrade both legs using a one of my TK Elite Plus upgrade vouchers. To get to Dushanbe, I had my eyes set on an Air Astana connection via Almaty and a 4.5 hour overnight layover in TSE. The Y fare was going for about $180 but when I tried to pay, all Y inventory zeroed out, leaving me with a J-only option that cost $400. Far more than I would have liked to pay, but with all other alternatives including flying TK directly to DYU coming out to be all over $1k, I settled for the J itinerary.
In the end, my outbound itinerary looked like this:
1. JFK-IST-TSE (TK J)
2. TSE-ALA-DYU (Air Astana J)
Because I had no idea when I would start or end the drive, I held off on booking my return flights until the penultimate day of the drive, when I had 3G after crossing into Kyrgyzstan. I generally had two options to get out of Osh. The easiest would have been a daily Aeroflot flight to SVO that would connect seamlessly to JFK (and at sub-$500, this was a solid deal). But with two TK Elite Plus upgrade vouchers expiring at the end of the year, I looked again for J class availability out of FRU, and found availability to ATL, BOS and MIA. With BOS and MIA pricing out at over $900, I booked, for $700, a one-way ticket to ATL on the new 787-9 and applied another Elite Plus upgrade voucher for all segments. Fortunately, the TK segments booked into Q class which earned me 100% RDM/EQMs with TK.
To get to FRU from OSS, I had the option of taking a 10-12 hour shared taxi or a 40-minute flight on one of Kyrgyzstan's three domestic airlines: Tez Jet, Avia Traffic Company or Air Manas. Domestic fares were reasonably priced between $30 and $60, so I booked for $44, Air Manas since they were the cheapest morning option. Pegasus once owned a 49% stake in Air Manas and had big plans for expansion, but their Central Asia foray largely flopped and Air Manas is now down to a single ex-Pegasus 737-400 classic plying their sole OSS-FRU route a few times daily.
Finally, to get back to NY, I redeemed 7.5k LifeMiles for a UA ticket to LGA via ORD.
3. OSS-FRU (Air Manas Y)
4. FRU-IST-ATL (TK J)
5. ATL-ORD-LGA (UA Y)
Two weeks. 17,867 miles BIS.
I will be publishing this TR in a few parts over the next few days. All photos were taken on my iPhone without any editing, so please excuse my novice photography skills and sizing of pictures. Comments are always appreciated, and thanks for following along!
3 October
The day started with a frantic scramble to pack and pick up some last-minute supplies from the REI store in SoHo in preparation for the trip. I had arrived less than 24 hours ago from Singapore (thank you, Alaska, for my favorite CX award) and had a day before I set off for Asia, again. I took a Lyft to JFK and arrived just as check-in was closing. At security, TSA PRE was printed on my BP, but when the agent scanned my BP, the system apparently did not recognize PreCheck and I was left to take everything out of my bag. "Oh that's weird. I haven't seen this one before. No PreCheck for you!"
Being the usual zoo T1 was at the late evening hour, it took a solid 20 minutes to get through security in the priority lane. Once through, I made my way to the perfectly forgettable LH Business Lounge. The lounge dragon announced a 30-minute delay to boarding due to the late arrival of aircraft (though in reality, it was due to gate space), as is typical of the midnight hour and in particular, T1. Boarding finally started at 12:45am, with a full load in both J and Y.
JFK-IST
Turkish Airlines TK12
00:10-16:50
333
As far as eastbound transatlantic flights go, JFK-IST is probably the shortest flight that still allows some number of hours of sleep that doesn't leave you feeling drained by the end of the next day. TK12 departs at a sleep-conducive time, but rarely departs on-time. Today's flight was no exception.
My seatmate today was flying TK J for the very first time. The FAs were quite amused at all the picture taking, IG stories, and Snaps, and gladly indulged my seatmate with one of each welcome drink.
Amenity kits and menus were distributed shortly after the door closed. The Versace kits are, in my opinion, a marked improvement to the old Molton Brown kits and are far more practical for storing toiletries. Tonight's menu featured TK's usual potpourri of seafood and swordfish, which I've had far too many times by now. I always find ex-JFK Do & Co catering to be less than stellar compared to other outstations.
Main course: grilled swordfish.
Lights were turned on 3 hours prior to arrival and breakfast started with the standard fare of the fruit plate.
Followed by a disgusting egg dish that had the consistency of soup. All I had was one bite, saving the rest of my appetite for the lounge.
Despite the hour delay on departure, we landed in IST on-time. Deplaning was poorly organized, with ground staff directing passengers up the escalators to transit security and immigration instead of airside as is the norm for ex-US arrivals. After a very long walk, I had to go through transit security again before heading to the business lounge.
IST-TSE
Turkish Airlines TK354
18:40-02:25 (+1)
73J
After a quick shower and a bite at the lounge, I was onboard TK354 to Astana. Today's flight would be operated by a 737-900ER, a swap from the originally scheduled 737-800 with improved pitch. With a load of just 3/16, service was quick and fantastic.
Dinner, once again, started with the familiar seafood selection. I didn't take an image of the main.
Dinner service was completed in an hour (I was the only passenger eating), and soon after, lights were dimmed for the remaining 3 hours to Astana.
4 October
Astana-Almaty-Dushanbe
We arrived 30 minutes early and immigration was seamless. After a short wait for my bag, I then headed to the domestic terminal for my Air Astana flight to Almaty.
Walk to the domestic terminal with an outside air temperature of just 1 degree Celsius.
Check-in counters were not open at 2:30am, so I found a quiet spot to wait.
Unfortunately, the air reeked of pollution that was quickly confirmed by a Google search:
At 4am, three hours before departure, I walked over to the Air Astana check-in counters but found it still closed. I took the opportunity to check-out the main atrium.
An ornately decorated terminal ceiling.
Finally, with less than 2 hours prior to departure at 5:15am, Air Astana staff appeared and I was quickly checked-in to Dushanbe via Almaty. Interestingly, some of Air Astana's counters were being used for its LCC, FlyArystan, which opened check-in some three hours prior to departure. Perhaps it was a one-off due to the airline's inaugural to Taraz in southern Kazakhstan that day, but I was surprised that their staff could not check-in Air Astana customers.
After check-in, I headed to the airline's flagship lounge, the Shanyrak Lounge. To describe this lounge as underwhelming would be an understatement, though compared to the Air Astana's domestic lounge offering in Almaty, this lounge seemed like heaven.
Apart from a few snacks, stale croissants, nuts, and apples, there was a small beverage station with canned drinks.
Being the first flight of the day, the lounge was practically empty when I arrived. Still, when I left, there were no more than five passengers in the lounge.
Menu cards were placed at each table detailing the food options available.
Perhaps the greatest welcome came from the three humidifiers scattered throughout the lounge, which relieved the dryness and stench of the air.
Bathrooms were well-appointed and stocked with a surprising array of amenities including combs, razors, and cotton buds.
After an hour in the lounge, I headed to the gate to board one of Air Astana's three 767-300ERs on its busiest route between TSE and ALA. There are no less than 17 daily flights between the capital and former capital and it's always a treat to fly a widebody on a short domestic route.
TSE-ALA
Air Astana KC622
07:00-08:40
763
Despite a lousy ground experience, Air Astana exceeded all expectations in the air. The majority of travelers on this morning's flight appeared to be business travelers. Because the flight was oversold in economy, several passengers received op-ups at the gate.
Business class seats on Air Astana are in a staggered 1-2-1 configuration, broadly similar to what you would find on DL or JL. I had selected 3K, a window seat closer to the window, which offered the perfect amount of privacy despite the narrow seat and footwell.
Cabin and seat.
No less than 30 seconds after I sat down, FAs came by offering welcome drinks. I chose the kompot, which was refreshing and not too sweet.
Menu cards were distributed shortly after along with a separate wine card (for a 7am flight?!). Meal and post-takeoff drink orders were taken on the ground.
We pushed back on-time and the safety video was shown. As far as safety videos go, I have to say that I really liked Air Astana's. You can watch the full video on YouTube
Lights were dimmed to deep blue mood lighting for takeoff.
Moving map.
As soon as the double chime sounded, FAs got to work and meal trays were brought out individually 15 minutes after takeoff. The entire meal was excellent and the entire service was completed 45 minutes after takeoff. Talk about efficiency!
Arrival into Almaty was on-schedule, and after a quick walk to the international terminal, I was back airside for my flight to DYU. I was last in ALA four years ago, and the crowding and lounge situation hasn't changed one bit. For such a great airline, the ground experience that Air Astana offers leaves a lot to be desired.
Air Astana's domestic lounge in ALA consists of a partitioned room that simply permits entry into the space. All snacks and drinks must be purchased separately from the bar. While the sofas and couches are more comfortable than the overcrowded terminal, there is nothing about the space that makes it a "lounge."
ALA-DYU
Air Astana KC131
10:05-11:00
E90
Boarding commenced on-time from gate 1B, a bus gate that departed one floor below the jetway gates. As far as I could tell, economy was full (a large group of students from India were on the flight), though the load in business was only 4/9.
The ride to our E-190 passed by one of FlyArystan's two A320s.
Our E-190 that would take us to DYU today. Air Astana recently began taking delivery of E190-E2s to replace their E-190 fleet.
Legroom was similar to what you would get on US regionals.
Like the previous flight, lunch was a three-course affair served on a single tray. Drink refills were offered liberally and the overall quality was again top-notch.
Descending through the mountains into DYU.
Arrival into Dushanbe was a pretty straightforward experience. I already had an eVisa in hand so getting through immigration was smooth. The sole official taxi stand in the baggage claim area was unstaffed, so after being mobbed by drivers in the arrivals hall, I negotiated a fare of 40 somoni ($4) with one of the drivers to the City Hostel. That was probably 50% more than I should have paid, but with no other taxis in sight, that was the best option I had.
After a quick shower and nap, I met two travelers at the hostel who had already spent some time in Dushanbe. One was about to embark on a 20+ day cycling trip through the Pamir Highway and the other was a full-time nomad slowly making his way through Central Asia. We all had a fantastic dinner at a Turkish restaurant by the hostel and after messaging two prospective travel companions, I felt much more confident about the prospects of finding at least two additional people to hire a car and driver for the Pamir Highway.
On our way back, we got a glimpse of the president's convoy racing down the streets to his birthday party. Tajikistan has only had one president since the dissolution of the Soviet Union and his image was in full display around the city (and country).
5 October
Exploring Dushanbe
The main order of the day was to find additional people to split the cost of a car and driver. By noon, I had two additional people more or less confirmed and the contact of a driver who agreed to drive us to Osh in eight days, departing the next day for $900 all-in. Split three ways plus the cost of accommodation and meals en-route, we were looking at just under $450 per person, which seemed like a great deal compared to numerous other $1k+ quotes I'd received in the preceding days.
After a quick visit to the other main hostel in town, I met up with my travel companions for lunch and a quick walk around Dushanbe.
In the afternoon, we stopped by the Afghan Market on the western side of the city. We originally intended to go to a different market in the south, but mistakingly ended up at the Afghan Market where we were very visibly the only non-local visitors.
Some freakishly large melons on display.
After confirming details of our departure the next day with our driver, we set out for a departing meal of something we knew we wouldn't have on the road for the next week -- a Latin American-Italian fusion restaurant, followed by baklava and tea at a Turkish restaurant by the hostel. With a last-minute supermarket run for supplies and a visit to the ATM, we were all set to go.
Oct 20, 2019, 1:28 pm
#2
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: LAS/SIN
Programs: TK E+, AS Gold
Posts: 67
Part II: 7 Days on the Pamir Highway
6 October
Day 1: Dushanbe-Kulaikhumb
There are generally two types of travelers on the Pamir Highway. The first are the travelers who either rent a 4WD or a vehicle and driver to traverse 1,400+ kilometers in relative comfort. Our group lucked out with a Lexus RX470 and a fantastic driver who was from the Pamirs himself.
Then, there are the cyclists who brave the elements and altitude to cross the Pamirs over a minimum period of three weeks. If you're reading this, Michael, god-speed to you.
The goal for our first day was to get to a town called Kulaikhumb by nightfall. We set off at 10:30am, passing by the president's hometown, Danghara, and a massive reservoir. It has been rumored that Tajikistan's president, Emomali Rahmon, wants to shift Tajikistan's capital to Danghara.
After driving for about 3.5 hours, we stopped for lunch at a small town called Kulob. On the menu was plov -- the first of many to come!
Continuing east, we drove through the mountains until we hit a valley that marked the border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. Much of the border is separated by the Panj River, with some parts as narrow as 5 meters across.
The road condition up to Kulaikhumb was excellent.
And the drive along the Panj River afforded great views of the Afghanistan, including these houses perched precariously on the tops of cliffs overlooking the river.
Three hours later, we pulled into Kulaikhumb. Our first stop in town was the petrol station, where we filled our main tank and additional tank with 170 liters of fuel.
After checking into our guesthouse for the night ($15, including dinner and breakfast), we took a stroll around town.
Memorial for the victims of a 2018 terrorist attack that claimed the lives of four cyclists.
A few boys showed us the way to the river bank.
7 October
Day 2: Kulaikhumb-Bartang Valley (Jizeu/Jizef)
The Bartang Valley is one of three general branches that the Pamir Highway takes to cross the country. Everyone we spoke to ahead of our trip spoke highly of the Bartang Valley and convinced us that it was worth a detour. We decided to spend a day in the Bartang Valley to do an easy 2 hour hike to a village nestled in the mountains at an altitude of about 2,500 meters. Accessible only by foot, the detour gave us a glimpse of the beauty of the Bartang Valley with an overnight homestay.
En-route to the Bartang Valley. Drivers frequently stop to assist other drivers with flats and other vehicle-related issues.
Lunch was a cheap ($2) and tasty bowl of lagman (soup noodles with potatoes and lamb).
Shortly after making the turnoff into the Bartang Valley, we arrived at the beginning of our hike.
The scenery, as expected, was stunning throughout the 2 hour hike.
At the top of the hike, we reached Jizeu, a small village where we would spend the night.
There were two homestays that we could choose from for $13.50 a night (including dinner and breakfast) and we opted for the one closest to the trail.
We showed up unexpectedly, so a late dinner consisting of potatoes and a tomato salad was cooked as the sun set.
By the time dinner was over at 7, the sky was completely dark. Without any electricity or cellular service, the only source of entertainment became a pitch black sky blanketed by stars. By 7:30, after I had seen a shooting star and figured that there was nothing else to do in the dark, I fell asleep until sunrise the next morning.
8 October
Day 3: Bartang Valley (Jizeu/Jizef)-Khorog-Ishkashim
I don't remember the last time I went to bed before and 8 and slept for 11 hours straight. Despite a freezing night, I woke up without any technology just as the sun poked above the horizon. Breakfast was another simple affair of a sweet, dairy-based porridge, bread, jam, biscuits, raisins, and tea.
After breakfast, he headed back down the valley to the trailhead, where we met our driver for the drive to Khorog and Ishkashim.
At this point, we passed by some of the narrowest parts of the Panj River separating Tajikistan from Afghanistan.
At Khorog, we stopped for lunch and a quick visit to the local market to pick up some fresh fruit.
Ishkashim is a border town near the southernmost part of Tajikistan. Every Saturday, a market on the Afghan side opens to Tajiks and foreign visitors wishing to make a day trip to pick up Afghan goods.
9 October
Day 4: Ishkashim-Langar
By the third day, I had little clarity on how much progress we would make. We had previously read about visiting a fort or two along the Wakhan Valley and decided that hitting them up today would be wise. This was the only day we would be spending entirely in the Wakhan Valley.
Our first stop was the Khakha fortress. Because the fortress is still occupied by the Tajik army and border patrol given its position overlooking the Panj River, pictures were not allowed. I managed to sneak in one shot from the fortress overlooking Afghanistan.
As we continued deeper into the Wakhan, the landscape became ever more spectacular.
Our next stop was Yamchun, arguably the site of Wakhan's most famous fortress. Before visiting the fortress, however, we paid a visit to the local hot springs. I was a little apprehensive at first given that it was nude with separate rooms from men and women, but with the perfect water temperature, the entire experience felt completely normal and very relaxing.
After the hot springs, we had lunch overlooking the Wakhan, followed by a quick nap in the sun.
The Yamchun Fortress was built in the 3rd century BC as a Zoroastrian place of worship. While little of the structure remains today, the location and views from the top were magnificent.
Further ahead was a village called Vrang, where local children guided us to the site of a Buddhist stupa on top of a hill overlooking the valley.
Our final stop of the day was the site of a mineral water fountain. Literally, mineral water (just look at the discoloration of the rock!). Needless to say, one sip was more than enough for me. The locals, as demonstrated by our driver below, believe that the highly-concentrated mineral water provides many health benefits.
As we pulled into Langar, we saw some men fishing in the freezing river.
As we pulled into our guesthouse, we were greeted by these four girls.
Our guesthouse for the night ($20 including dinner and breakfast). This guesthouse included a hot shower!
10 October
Day 5: Langar-Bulunkul-Murghab
Today, we bid farewell to the Wakhan and Afghanistan by turning north to rejoin the main portion of the Pamir Highway. As the road turns north, three mountain ranges, the Pamirs, Karakorum, and Hindu Kush, all become visible for a brief moment. Tajikistan, Afghanistan, and Pakistan are constructing a bridge to connect Tajikistan and Pakistan at Afghanistan's narrowest part (just 20km apart). The locals have high hopes that this will bring about positive change in a region so isolated from the rest of the country and each country's respective capitals.
After rejoining the main highway, we took a detour to Bulunkul, a large freshwater lake in a protected area at an elevation of 3,700 meters (12,100 ft). A yurt marked the entrance to the protected area, staffed by a local schoolteacher from the nearby Bulunkul village.
Lunch was freshwater fish from the lake, prepared in another yurt in the village.
As we played with local children while waiting for our lunch to be prepared, a convoy of four unmarked jeeps filled with PLA soldiers from China pulled into the village. A few men hopped out and made it very clear that photos were not allowed, and after a few words with the locals, drove off in the direction of the lake. It was a strange encounter that left everyone a little puzzled, though our driver said that the Chinese had an interest in the area and coordinated visits from both sides under the guise of reciprocal military visits.
After Bulunkul, we made our way back to the main highway to continue onwards to Murghab.
The town of Murghab.
On our way to our homestay, we stopped by the town's main attraction -- the container market.
Our homestay for the night ($18 including dinner and breakfast) had incredible views of the sunset.
We had a surprisingly well-appointed room with plenty of extra blankets and, for the first time, heat. (Also, notice the length of the couch!)
11 October
Day 6: Murghab-Ak Baital Pass-Karakul-Sary Mogul (Kyrgyzstan)
Setting off from Murghab, we continued north to the highest point on the Pamir Highway, the Ak-Baital Pass.
This stretch of the highway brought us close to the Chinese border. Although the border fence is situated some 20-30 km in Tajikistan, numerous breaks in the border fence make potential crossings easy.
Before we knew it, we reached the start of the pass with this sign: Ak-Baital Pass, elevation 4,655 meters (15,272 ft). The Pamir Highway is generally recognized the second highest highway in the world (after the Karakorum). Two local children playing by the sign joined us for the celebratory shot.
The roof of the world.
With temperatures well below freezing and a fierce wind chill, we quickly made our way past the pass into warmer, and more breathable, air. We stopped at Karakul, a large impact crater lake, for a quick visit and tea. Karakul, at an elevation of 3,900 meters (12,795 ft) is one of the world's highest lakes. It is notably higher than Lake Titicaca in Bolivia/Peru.
Tea with a standard array of condiments in Karakul village.
As we continued north, snow became more and more apparent with the occasional dusting of snowflakes as we passed between the mountains.
Fortunately, the skies remained clear and freshly fallen snow, likely among the first of the season, made getting out of our car to take pictures in sub-zero temperatures a worthwhile endeavor.
Before we knew it, we hit the Tajik-Kyrgyz border at an elevation of over 4,000 meters. The truckers who regularly make the border crossing through unpaved roads, snow, ice, and 12+ degree inclines are seriously skilled.
No man's land between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan
After what seemed like an endless 30 kilometers of no-man's land, we finally crossed into Kyrgyzstan. First stop was a late lunch in town consisting of lentil soup, bread, and manti. We didn't have any Kyrgyz som on us, but the restaurant gladly accepted the remainder of our Tajik somoni.
30 minutes later, we arrived at the town of Sary Mogul. Our homestay for the night ($15 including dinner and breakfast) resembled more of a dorm room and included a small portable electric heater for the night. For the first time since leaving Dushanbe, we had WiFi.
After checking in and walking around the village, we bid adieu to our driver, Tamriz, who returned to Tajikistan the same evening, leaving us with the homestay owner to take us the remainder of the way to Lenin Peak and Osh. After six days, the back of our Lexus had accumulated the thickest layer of dust I had ever encountered on a vehicle not destined for the scrapyard.
12 October
Day 7: Sary Mogul-Lenin Peak-Osh
Our original itinerary called for us to stay one night at a yurt camp at the base of Lenin Peak, a 7,134 m (23,406 ft) mountain on the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. However, after hearing reports from other travelers that staying overnight was freezing, uncomfortable, and not recommended, we opted to cut the overnight and turn our trip to Lenin Peak into a day hike instead.
Lenin Peak is the second highest mountain in Tajikistan and the most prominent of the wall of peaks that demarcate the Tajik-Kyrgyz border. From our homestay in Sary Mogul, Lenin Peak was clearly visible in the distance.
The owner of our homestay drove us to the yurt camp of Lenin Peak, which marked the trailhead to the summit of the mountain. Lenin Peak is known as one of the easier seven-thousanders to summit and attracts many mountaineers every summer.
After a leisurely 4-hour hike, with many breaks due to the altitude, we packed our bags and set off for Osh, the second largest city and economic center of southern Kyrgyzstan. Like in Tajikistan, this final section of the Pamir Highway was again stunningly beautiful.
Fortunately, the road conditions throughout the entire journey were excellent.
First signs of traffic.
We pulled into our hostel in Osh just as the sun set, took a well-deserved hot shower, and changed into the nicest pair of clothes we all had for a sumptuous dinner at an Italian restaurant. For three strangers to meet less than 24 hours before setting off on a journey of a lifetime, I'd say we did pretty well.
This marks the end of the Part II. Part III will cover the journey back from Osh with Air Manas and Turkish Airlines. Thanks for following along!
Day 1: Dushanbe-Kulaikhumb
There are generally two types of travelers on the Pamir Highway. The first are the travelers who either rent a 4WD or a vehicle and driver to traverse 1,400+ kilometers in relative comfort. Our group lucked out with a Lexus RX470 and a fantastic driver who was from the Pamirs himself.
Then, there are the cyclists who brave the elements and altitude to cross the Pamirs over a minimum period of three weeks. If you're reading this, Michael, god-speed to you.
The goal for our first day was to get to a town called Kulaikhumb by nightfall. We set off at 10:30am, passing by the president's hometown, Danghara, and a massive reservoir. It has been rumored that Tajikistan's president, Emomali Rahmon, wants to shift Tajikistan's capital to Danghara.
After driving for about 3.5 hours, we stopped for lunch at a small town called Kulob. On the menu was plov -- the first of many to come!
Continuing east, we drove through the mountains until we hit a valley that marked the border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. Much of the border is separated by the Panj River, with some parts as narrow as 5 meters across.
The road condition up to Kulaikhumb was excellent.
And the drive along the Panj River afforded great views of the Afghanistan, including these houses perched precariously on the tops of cliffs overlooking the river.
Three hours later, we pulled into Kulaikhumb. Our first stop in town was the petrol station, where we filled our main tank and additional tank with 170 liters of fuel.
After checking into our guesthouse for the night ($15, including dinner and breakfast), we took a stroll around town.
Memorial for the victims of a 2018 terrorist attack that claimed the lives of four cyclists.
A few boys showed us the way to the river bank.
7 October
Day 2: Kulaikhumb-Bartang Valley (Jizeu/Jizef)
The Bartang Valley is one of three general branches that the Pamir Highway takes to cross the country. Everyone we spoke to ahead of our trip spoke highly of the Bartang Valley and convinced us that it was worth a detour. We decided to spend a day in the Bartang Valley to do an easy 2 hour hike to a village nestled in the mountains at an altitude of about 2,500 meters. Accessible only by foot, the detour gave us a glimpse of the beauty of the Bartang Valley with an overnight homestay.
En-route to the Bartang Valley. Drivers frequently stop to assist other drivers with flats and other vehicle-related issues.
Lunch was a cheap ($2) and tasty bowl of lagman (soup noodles with potatoes and lamb).
Shortly after making the turnoff into the Bartang Valley, we arrived at the beginning of our hike.
The scenery, as expected, was stunning throughout the 2 hour hike.
At the top of the hike, we reached Jizeu, a small village where we would spend the night.
There were two homestays that we could choose from for $13.50 a night (including dinner and breakfast) and we opted for the one closest to the trail.
We showed up unexpectedly, so a late dinner consisting of potatoes and a tomato salad was cooked as the sun set.
By the time dinner was over at 7, the sky was completely dark. Without any electricity or cellular service, the only source of entertainment became a pitch black sky blanketed by stars. By 7:30, after I had seen a shooting star and figured that there was nothing else to do in the dark, I fell asleep until sunrise the next morning.
8 October
Day 3: Bartang Valley (Jizeu/Jizef)-Khorog-Ishkashim
I don't remember the last time I went to bed before and 8 and slept for 11 hours straight. Despite a freezing night, I woke up without any technology just as the sun poked above the horizon. Breakfast was another simple affair of a sweet, dairy-based porridge, bread, jam, biscuits, raisins, and tea.
After breakfast, he headed back down the valley to the trailhead, where we met our driver for the drive to Khorog and Ishkashim.
At this point, we passed by some of the narrowest parts of the Panj River separating Tajikistan from Afghanistan.
At Khorog, we stopped for lunch and a quick visit to the local market to pick up some fresh fruit.
Ishkashim is a border town near the southernmost part of Tajikistan. Every Saturday, a market on the Afghan side opens to Tajiks and foreign visitors wishing to make a day trip to pick up Afghan goods.
9 October
Day 4: Ishkashim-Langar
By the third day, I had little clarity on how much progress we would make. We had previously read about visiting a fort or two along the Wakhan Valley and decided that hitting them up today would be wise. This was the only day we would be spending entirely in the Wakhan Valley.
Our first stop was the Khakha fortress. Because the fortress is still occupied by the Tajik army and border patrol given its position overlooking the Panj River, pictures were not allowed. I managed to sneak in one shot from the fortress overlooking Afghanistan.
As we continued deeper into the Wakhan, the landscape became ever more spectacular.
Our next stop was Yamchun, arguably the site of Wakhan's most famous fortress. Before visiting the fortress, however, we paid a visit to the local hot springs. I was a little apprehensive at first given that it was nude with separate rooms from men and women, but with the perfect water temperature, the entire experience felt completely normal and very relaxing.
After the hot springs, we had lunch overlooking the Wakhan, followed by a quick nap in the sun.
The Yamchun Fortress was built in the 3rd century BC as a Zoroastrian place of worship. While little of the structure remains today, the location and views from the top were magnificent.
Further ahead was a village called Vrang, where local children guided us to the site of a Buddhist stupa on top of a hill overlooking the valley.
Our final stop of the day was the site of a mineral water fountain. Literally, mineral water (just look at the discoloration of the rock!). Needless to say, one sip was more than enough for me. The locals, as demonstrated by our driver below, believe that the highly-concentrated mineral water provides many health benefits.
As we pulled into Langar, we saw some men fishing in the freezing river.
As we pulled into our guesthouse, we were greeted by these four girls.
Our guesthouse for the night ($20 including dinner and breakfast). This guesthouse included a hot shower!
10 October
Day 5: Langar-Bulunkul-Murghab
Today, we bid farewell to the Wakhan and Afghanistan by turning north to rejoin the main portion of the Pamir Highway. As the road turns north, three mountain ranges, the Pamirs, Karakorum, and Hindu Kush, all become visible for a brief moment. Tajikistan, Afghanistan, and Pakistan are constructing a bridge to connect Tajikistan and Pakistan at Afghanistan's narrowest part (just 20km apart). The locals have high hopes that this will bring about positive change in a region so isolated from the rest of the country and each country's respective capitals.
After rejoining the main highway, we took a detour to Bulunkul, a large freshwater lake in a protected area at an elevation of 3,700 meters (12,100 ft). A yurt marked the entrance to the protected area, staffed by a local schoolteacher from the nearby Bulunkul village.
Lunch was freshwater fish from the lake, prepared in another yurt in the village.
As we played with local children while waiting for our lunch to be prepared, a convoy of four unmarked jeeps filled with PLA soldiers from China pulled into the village. A few men hopped out and made it very clear that photos were not allowed, and after a few words with the locals, drove off in the direction of the lake. It was a strange encounter that left everyone a little puzzled, though our driver said that the Chinese had an interest in the area and coordinated visits from both sides under the guise of reciprocal military visits.
After Bulunkul, we made our way back to the main highway to continue onwards to Murghab.
The town of Murghab.
On our way to our homestay, we stopped by the town's main attraction -- the container market.
Our homestay for the night ($18 including dinner and breakfast) had incredible views of the sunset.
We had a surprisingly well-appointed room with plenty of extra blankets and, for the first time, heat. (Also, notice the length of the couch!)
11 October
Day 6: Murghab-Ak Baital Pass-Karakul-Sary Mogul (Kyrgyzstan)
Setting off from Murghab, we continued north to the highest point on the Pamir Highway, the Ak-Baital Pass.
This stretch of the highway brought us close to the Chinese border. Although the border fence is situated some 20-30 km in Tajikistan, numerous breaks in the border fence make potential crossings easy.
Before we knew it, we reached the start of the pass with this sign: Ak-Baital Pass, elevation 4,655 meters (15,272 ft). The Pamir Highway is generally recognized the second highest highway in the world (after the Karakorum). Two local children playing by the sign joined us for the celebratory shot.
The roof of the world.
With temperatures well below freezing and a fierce wind chill, we quickly made our way past the pass into warmer, and more breathable, air. We stopped at Karakul, a large impact crater lake, for a quick visit and tea. Karakul, at an elevation of 3,900 meters (12,795 ft) is one of the world's highest lakes. It is notably higher than Lake Titicaca in Bolivia/Peru.
Tea with a standard array of condiments in Karakul village.
As we continued north, snow became more and more apparent with the occasional dusting of snowflakes as we passed between the mountains.
Fortunately, the skies remained clear and freshly fallen snow, likely among the first of the season, made getting out of our car to take pictures in sub-zero temperatures a worthwhile endeavor.
Before we knew it, we hit the Tajik-Kyrgyz border at an elevation of over 4,000 meters. The truckers who regularly make the border crossing through unpaved roads, snow, ice, and 12+ degree inclines are seriously skilled.
No man's land between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan
After what seemed like an endless 30 kilometers of no-man's land, we finally crossed into Kyrgyzstan. First stop was a late lunch in town consisting of lentil soup, bread, and manti. We didn't have any Kyrgyz som on us, but the restaurant gladly accepted the remainder of our Tajik somoni.
30 minutes later, we arrived at the town of Sary Mogul. Our homestay for the night ($15 including dinner and breakfast) resembled more of a dorm room and included a small portable electric heater for the night. For the first time since leaving Dushanbe, we had WiFi.
After checking in and walking around the village, we bid adieu to our driver, Tamriz, who returned to Tajikistan the same evening, leaving us with the homestay owner to take us the remainder of the way to Lenin Peak and Osh. After six days, the back of our Lexus had accumulated the thickest layer of dust I had ever encountered on a vehicle not destined for the scrapyard.
12 October
Day 7: Sary Mogul-Lenin Peak-Osh
Our original itinerary called for us to stay one night at a yurt camp at the base of Lenin Peak, a 7,134 m (23,406 ft) mountain on the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. However, after hearing reports from other travelers that staying overnight was freezing, uncomfortable, and not recommended, we opted to cut the overnight and turn our trip to Lenin Peak into a day hike instead.
Lenin Peak is the second highest mountain in Tajikistan and the most prominent of the wall of peaks that demarcate the Tajik-Kyrgyz border. From our homestay in Sary Mogul, Lenin Peak was clearly visible in the distance.
The owner of our homestay drove us to the yurt camp of Lenin Peak, which marked the trailhead to the summit of the mountain. Lenin Peak is known as one of the easier seven-thousanders to summit and attracts many mountaineers every summer.
After a leisurely 4-hour hike, with many breaks due to the altitude, we packed our bags and set off for Osh, the second largest city and economic center of southern Kyrgyzstan. Like in Tajikistan, this final section of the Pamir Highway was again stunningly beautiful.
Fortunately, the road conditions throughout the entire journey were excellent.
First signs of traffic.
We pulled into our hostel in Osh just as the sun set, took a well-deserved hot shower, and changed into the nicest pair of clothes we all had for a sumptuous dinner at an Italian restaurant. For three strangers to meet less than 24 hours before setting off on a journey of a lifetime, I'd say we did pretty well.
This marks the end of the Part II. Part III will cover the journey back from Osh with Air Manas and Turkish Airlines. Thanks for following along!
Last edited by 9vska; Oct 24, 2019 at 10:52 pm
Oct 20, 2019, 1:28 pm
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: LAS/SIN
Programs: TK E+, AS Gold
Posts: 67
Part III: The Long Way Home (OSS-FRU-IST-ATL-ORD-LGA)
13 October
Osh
After a week of waking up and not knowing what we'd do or where we'd sleep at the end of the day, it only seemed logical to continue that trend into our first day in Osh. What we had wanted more than anything else was a decent cup of coffee, so we made our way to the nearest coffee shop that had decent reviews.
The coffee shop exceeded our highest expectations (especially having WiFi) and we ended up spending half our day there. Turns out, the coffee shop was also where the expatriate crowd frequented on weekends and we ran into a filmmaker and German language teacher who gave us the rundown on what to do in Osh.
Several coffees and plates of food later, we realized that we probably overstayed our welcome and headed to the bazaar that coincidentally was busiest on Sundays.
The government wedding registry building.
The bazaar was essentially one long covered corridor of shops and stalls in no particular order, with several more rows of shops branching off the main covered walkway. Walking from one end to the other took a good 20 minutes.
For dinner, we settled on shashlik at a restaurant across our hostel. I tried lamb and rabbit, both of which were excellent.
By the evening, I was debating whether to head to Bishkek the next day or stay in Osh for another day. Thanks to the expats we met at the coffee shop, I decided to stay another day in Osh to explore the city.
14 October
Osh
Our second day in Osh started with a hike up to one of Kyrgyzstan's three UNESCO World Heritage Sites and the only site located entirely in Kyrgyzstan (the other two are border mountain ranges). Sulaiman-Too is a small mountain in the center of Osh that was once the center of the ancient Silk Road and the site of Muslim pilgrimage. Today, Sulaiman-Too serves as an excellent vantage point to Osh and the Fergana Valley.
The hike up to the top of the mountain took about 30 minutes.
Followed by a trail that ran the length of the mountain to a cave museum.
After the hike, we made our way to a three-story yurt in the center of the city (billed as the largest and only three-story yurt in the world).
In the evening, we met up with the expats we had met the day before. By pure coincidence, there were two birthdays among our group of newfound friends. We celebrated together at a club called Skybar across the street from the hostel, where many of Osh's upper class residents would gather to drink and party well into the night. Our Monday night was no different than any other day of the week. No fewer than a dozen young adults and university students came over the keep us company. Many of them were conscious of the fact that their parents had no idea that they were drinking, smoking, and partying on weeknights. But after many rounds of drinks, shisha, and dancing, many of them expressed a desire to leave Osh for the capital or Russia.
15 October
Osh-Bishkek
Kyrgyzstan is 93% mountainous so getting around the country can be an incredibly a time-consuming affair. From Osh to the capital, Bishkek, a shared taxi ride takes 10-12 hours for about 1,200 som ($17) per person. Flying takes 40 minutes at an entirely reasonable price of between $30 to $60. Although the road between Osh and Bishkek was in excellent condition, there was little chance I was going to get in another vehicle after the Pamir Highway.
Two days prior, I stopped by an aviakacca, a travel agent that had access to lower fares than what I could find online for Kyrgyzstan's three domestic carriers. After confirming that the online price vs. agent price was the same, I booked Air Manas given that it was the cheapest option that left in the morning.
Kyrgyzstan has three domestic carriers: Air Manas, Tez Jet, and Avia Traffic Company. All other airlines, including the former national carrier, Air Kyrgyzstan, are defunct. Air Manas has a single, 21 year old 737-400 that was previously with Pegasus, its former minority owner. Tez Jez has two Avro RJ-85s between 22 and 23 years old that once flew with SN Brussels Airlines. Avia Traffic Company has four active aircraft (three 737-300s and a single A320) ranging from 23 and 28 years old. All of Kyrgyzstan's airlines are on the list of airlines banned from the EU.
Choosing between the three came down to schedule and price. As much as I would have loved to fly the Avro RJ-85, Tez Jet cost nearly twice as much as Air Manas. Avia Traffic Company, arguably the most reliable of the three, didn't have a morning flight on Tuesday. Unfortunately, Air Manas had a mechanical incident in the last week that grounded their sole aircraft for several days, stranding many passengers and tourists who warned us against flying an airline that had only one aircraft. Ultimately their sole aircraft came back online three days before I wanted to depart. After confirming on FlightRadar24 that Air Manas was operating all flights as scheduled, I decided to take my chances and book Air Manas.
The day started with a short cab ride to the airport. I found it amusing that there was a yurt just outside the terminal building.
Osh has a single terminal for domestic and international flights.
OSS-FRU
Air Manas ZM194
09:50-10:40
734
Check-in was processed quickly and I got a window seat. All fares come with 15 kg of checked baggage, though this didn't seem to be enforced.
After security, there was a single, large boarding area. There was a TezJet flight departing Bishkek 20 minutes before our Air Manas flight.
Shortly after the TezJet flight boarded, Air Manas was called and we were bussed to the aircraft.
Despite a 100% load factor, boarding was completed in just 10 minutes and more than half of all overhead bins remained empty.
While pitch was awful (< 30''), the seat was well-cushioned and padded.
As soon as the double chime sounded, the seatbelt sign was switched off and four FAs sprung into action with a water service from the front and rear of the cabin.
Water service on a 40-minute, 190 mile flight.
Approach to Bishkek.
Deplaning.
Domestic arrivals.
Bags appeared on the belt within 5 minutes of deplaning and I negotiated the standard taxi fare of 600 som ($8.60) to the city center. For my last night in Central Asia, I decided to splurge on the Hyatt Regency for 8,000 points a night. Standard cash rates were going for just over $260, so redeeming points was obviously the better deal.
With no definitive plans, we spent the day walking around the city. Just outside the Hyatt Regency was the Opera and Ballet Theater.
Across the street were two parks that had many statues on display.
Ala-Too Square.
Statue of Manas. The name "Manas" comes from an epic, where Manas is celebrated as a hero for his victorious battles against various enemies.
The brutalist Kyrgyz parliament building.
Lunch was about as traditional as it could get: lagman, manti, and tea.
The highlight of the afternoon was a visit to Osh Bazaar, claimed to be one of the largest bazaars in Central Asia. The bazaar had both indoor and outdoor sections selling everything from electronics to food.
Rolled tobacco was one of the busiest aisles in the indoor market.
A disused Soviet-era "gassy" water vending machine.
16 October
I had a 6:35am flight, so I set an alarm for 4:30am and was out of the door by 5am on my way to the airport. The front desk arranged a regular taxi for 500 som ($7.16) the night before which showed on on-time. The driver seemingly knew where each speed camera was placed on the long, straight stretch of road to the airport, so the usual 35-minute ride took a record 20-minutes.
Manas airport is busiest in the wee hours of the morning, with multiple arriving and departing international flights, mostly to Russia. On today's early-morning departures board were flights on Ural Airlines, Azimuth, Aeroflot, Turkish, FlyDubai, and Pegasus.
The sole VIP lounge in the terminal was packed, though I found a small room at the back that remained empty.
Airside terminal.
FRU-IST
Turkish Airlines TK349
06:35-09:35
738
This morning's flight to Istanbul was operated by a 737-800. Pitch was noticeably less than the 737-900ER I had flown into Astana with a week earlier, but with a load of 8/16, I moved to the bulkhead seat 1A to have an empty seat next to me.
We departed from Bishkek and turned west along the mountains.
Menu.
Breakfast.
With a flight time of five hours, a pre-landing snack was also offered (similar to the pre-landing offering on TK's mid-haul flights to Africa)
We touched down in IST a few minutes early, and I was first off the plane.
An eerily quiet transit hall this morning.
After passing through transit security, I made my way to the business lounge. I took a shower and ask to reserve one of 13 private suites. The private suites can be reserved for business and Elite Plus passengers with a 4-7 hour connection, as long as one of the flights exceeds 8 hours. Since all suites were occupied or being cleaned, I was asked to come back an hour later. The day beds in the lounge, however, were largely unoccupied.
After gorging myself on more food, I made my way back to the reception an hour later to check-in to my suite.
I napped for a solid two hours before heading to the gate.
IST-ATL
Turkish Airlines TK31
14:05-19:40
789
In September, Atlanta became the second U.S. destination to receive the 787-9 after IAD. The seats, manufactured by Stelia, are similar to SQ's regional business class product on their 787-10s though TK is using the seat for long-haul flights.
As you would expect from a brand new aircraft, the cabin and seat finishes were gorgeous. But the seats and footwell were narrow and I constantly found my legs and knees hitting the sides of the seat while sleeping. For sleeping, I'm actually conflicted between this seat and the 777, though privacy on these new Stelia seats is unbeatable.
The J cabin was initially only about 60% booked, but we ended departing with a full load. Weather delayed many northeast US flights by several hours, causing several rebooked customers to be transferred to our flight.
Today's menu.
Canapés were served 70 minutes after takeoff.
Followed by the starter trolley 55 minutes later.
The main course was brought out 15 minutes later. The lamb chops were good, but slightly overcooked.
And the dessert and coffee/tea trolley another 55 minutes later. In total, the meal service from canapés to dessert lasted 2.5 hours. Lights were dimmed and turndown service was offered 4 hours after departure. I'm not sure if crews are just starting to get used to the 787-9, but service and flow was exceedingly slow.
I slept for about 4 hours before lights were turned on again for the second meal service.
The chicken was dry and largely forgettable.
This time, the meal service, from start to finish, was completed in 45 minutes. With two hours to go until landing, I reclined my seat for another nap before landing. The descent into Atlanta gave us great views of the city.
I had an expiring Chase IHG free night certificate so I used that on an overnight at the Kimpton Overland Hotel. This is the first Kimpton in Atlanta and goes for 40k IHG points a night.
The layout of the room was a little strange given the exposed bathroom.
Overall, the stay was fine, but I wouldn't necessarily go out of my way to stay at this particular Kimpton again.
17 October
The final two United flights were about as boring and ordinary as domestic flights could get. This forum doesn't need any more reports of United domestic flights, so I'll keep this part short.
ATL-ORD
United Airlines UA3405
08:05-09:15
Way back in the day, when I lived in Atlanta and was still flying UA, one of my biggest frustrations was the lack of a United Club. I hadn't flown out of a T gate in years, so I was excited to visit the new-ish United Club.
While the breakfast offerings were unmemorable, the sunrise was magnificent. There's always something special about the late sunrises that Atlanta gets in the fall.
As were the views on approach to ORD.
ORD-LGA
United Airlines UA1741
12:00-15:14
319
After killing time in the B6 and B18 clubs, I was onboard a 319 to LGA. I loathe these butt-numbing seats more than any other Y seat in the UA fleet, but was glad to see the stroopwafel offered on this afternoon flight.
Conclusion
A couple that I met along the Pamir Highway told me the following story. There are four types of fun: Type 1 fun is the feeling you get when you know you're going to Disneyland. You're happy before you even get to to Disneyland, knowing that you'll have a great time there. Type 2 fun is the fun you get when you fall into the water while whitewater rafting. The water is paralyzingly cold for a moment, but when you get out of the water, you have fun. Type 3 fun is the when you're on a road trip and you have a flat tire. It sucks for more than a moment, but when you look back at the trip once you're done with the trip, you realize how much fun you had. Type 4 fun is the fun that leaves you angry and biter for a long time, but eventually, you realize an appreciation and deeper takeaway from the experience. It's like being turned away at a border or getting a visa denial. You're angry and bitter, and you blame others. But in the end, you realize the experience made you a better, more prepared traveler.
The Pamir Highway falls somewhere between Type 2 and Type 3 fun. Flying to Tajikistan with only a one-way ticket, no plans, and no travel companions was scary. From potholed roads to freezing nights, questionable food and water hygiene to filthy outhouses, there is no denying that the beauty of the Pamir and Wakhan requires a tradeoff with comfort.
But two weeks on, it's easy to realize how every uncomfortable moment led to an experience beyond my wildest dreams. The Pamir Highway is one of the greatest road trips on this planet. And scrolling through the camera roll is just the consolation prize.
Osh
After a week of waking up and not knowing what we'd do or where we'd sleep at the end of the day, it only seemed logical to continue that trend into our first day in Osh. What we had wanted more than anything else was a decent cup of coffee, so we made our way to the nearest coffee shop that had decent reviews.
The coffee shop exceeded our highest expectations (especially having WiFi) and we ended up spending half our day there. Turns out, the coffee shop was also where the expatriate crowd frequented on weekends and we ran into a filmmaker and German language teacher who gave us the rundown on what to do in Osh.
Several coffees and plates of food later, we realized that we probably overstayed our welcome and headed to the bazaar that coincidentally was busiest on Sundays.
The government wedding registry building.
The bazaar was essentially one long covered corridor of shops and stalls in no particular order, with several more rows of shops branching off the main covered walkway. Walking from one end to the other took a good 20 minutes.
For dinner, we settled on shashlik at a restaurant across our hostel. I tried lamb and rabbit, both of which were excellent.
By the evening, I was debating whether to head to Bishkek the next day or stay in Osh for another day. Thanks to the expats we met at the coffee shop, I decided to stay another day in Osh to explore the city.
14 October
Osh
Our second day in Osh started with a hike up to one of Kyrgyzstan's three UNESCO World Heritage Sites and the only site located entirely in Kyrgyzstan (the other two are border mountain ranges). Sulaiman-Too is a small mountain in the center of Osh that was once the center of the ancient Silk Road and the site of Muslim pilgrimage. Today, Sulaiman-Too serves as an excellent vantage point to Osh and the Fergana Valley.
The hike up to the top of the mountain took about 30 minutes.
Followed by a trail that ran the length of the mountain to a cave museum.
After the hike, we made our way to a three-story yurt in the center of the city (billed as the largest and only three-story yurt in the world).
In the evening, we met up with the expats we had met the day before. By pure coincidence, there were two birthdays among our group of newfound friends. We celebrated together at a club called Skybar across the street from the hostel, where many of Osh's upper class residents would gather to drink and party well into the night. Our Monday night was no different than any other day of the week. No fewer than a dozen young adults and university students came over the keep us company. Many of them were conscious of the fact that their parents had no idea that they were drinking, smoking, and partying on weeknights. But after many rounds of drinks, shisha, and dancing, many of them expressed a desire to leave Osh for the capital or Russia.
15 October
Osh-Bishkek
Kyrgyzstan is 93% mountainous so getting around the country can be an incredibly a time-consuming affair. From Osh to the capital, Bishkek, a shared taxi ride takes 10-12 hours for about 1,200 som ($17) per person. Flying takes 40 minutes at an entirely reasonable price of between $30 to $60. Although the road between Osh and Bishkek was in excellent condition, there was little chance I was going to get in another vehicle after the Pamir Highway.
Two days prior, I stopped by an aviakacca, a travel agent that had access to lower fares than what I could find online for Kyrgyzstan's three domestic carriers. After confirming that the online price vs. agent price was the same, I booked Air Manas given that it was the cheapest option that left in the morning.
Kyrgyzstan has three domestic carriers: Air Manas, Tez Jet, and Avia Traffic Company. All other airlines, including the former national carrier, Air Kyrgyzstan, are defunct. Air Manas has a single, 21 year old 737-400 that was previously with Pegasus, its former minority owner. Tez Jez has two Avro RJ-85s between 22 and 23 years old that once flew with SN Brussels Airlines. Avia Traffic Company has four active aircraft (three 737-300s and a single A320) ranging from 23 and 28 years old. All of Kyrgyzstan's airlines are on the list of airlines banned from the EU.
Choosing between the three came down to schedule and price. As much as I would have loved to fly the Avro RJ-85, Tez Jet cost nearly twice as much as Air Manas. Avia Traffic Company, arguably the most reliable of the three, didn't have a morning flight on Tuesday. Unfortunately, Air Manas had a mechanical incident in the last week that grounded their sole aircraft for several days, stranding many passengers and tourists who warned us against flying an airline that had only one aircraft. Ultimately their sole aircraft came back online three days before I wanted to depart. After confirming on FlightRadar24 that Air Manas was operating all flights as scheduled, I decided to take my chances and book Air Manas.
The day started with a short cab ride to the airport. I found it amusing that there was a yurt just outside the terminal building.
Osh has a single terminal for domestic and international flights.
OSS-FRU
Air Manas ZM194
09:50-10:40
734
Check-in was processed quickly and I got a window seat. All fares come with 15 kg of checked baggage, though this didn't seem to be enforced.
After security, there was a single, large boarding area. There was a TezJet flight departing Bishkek 20 minutes before our Air Manas flight.
Shortly after the TezJet flight boarded, Air Manas was called and we were bussed to the aircraft.
Despite a 100% load factor, boarding was completed in just 10 minutes and more than half of all overhead bins remained empty.
While pitch was awful (< 30''), the seat was well-cushioned and padded.
As soon as the double chime sounded, the seatbelt sign was switched off and four FAs sprung into action with a water service from the front and rear of the cabin.
Water service on a 40-minute, 190 mile flight.
Approach to Bishkek.
Deplaning.
Domestic arrivals.
Bags appeared on the belt within 5 minutes of deplaning and I negotiated the standard taxi fare of 600 som ($8.60) to the city center. For my last night in Central Asia, I decided to splurge on the Hyatt Regency for 8,000 points a night. Standard cash rates were going for just over $260, so redeeming points was obviously the better deal.
With no definitive plans, we spent the day walking around the city. Just outside the Hyatt Regency was the Opera and Ballet Theater.
Across the street were two parks that had many statues on display.
Ala-Too Square.
Statue of Manas. The name "Manas" comes from an epic, where Manas is celebrated as a hero for his victorious battles against various enemies.
The brutalist Kyrgyz parliament building.
Lunch was about as traditional as it could get: lagman, manti, and tea.
The highlight of the afternoon was a visit to Osh Bazaar, claimed to be one of the largest bazaars in Central Asia. The bazaar had both indoor and outdoor sections selling everything from electronics to food.
Rolled tobacco was one of the busiest aisles in the indoor market.
A disused Soviet-era "gassy" water vending machine.
16 October
I had a 6:35am flight, so I set an alarm for 4:30am and was out of the door by 5am on my way to the airport. The front desk arranged a regular taxi for 500 som ($7.16) the night before which showed on on-time. The driver seemingly knew where each speed camera was placed on the long, straight stretch of road to the airport, so the usual 35-minute ride took a record 20-minutes.
Manas airport is busiest in the wee hours of the morning, with multiple arriving and departing international flights, mostly to Russia. On today's early-morning departures board were flights on Ural Airlines, Azimuth, Aeroflot, Turkish, FlyDubai, and Pegasus.
The sole VIP lounge in the terminal was packed, though I found a small room at the back that remained empty.
Airside terminal.
FRU-IST
Turkish Airlines TK349
06:35-09:35
738
This morning's flight to Istanbul was operated by a 737-800. Pitch was noticeably less than the 737-900ER I had flown into Astana with a week earlier, but with a load of 8/16, I moved to the bulkhead seat 1A to have an empty seat next to me.
We departed from Bishkek and turned west along the mountains.
Menu.
Breakfast.
With a flight time of five hours, a pre-landing snack was also offered (similar to the pre-landing offering on TK's mid-haul flights to Africa)
We touched down in IST a few minutes early, and I was first off the plane.
An eerily quiet transit hall this morning.
After passing through transit security, I made my way to the business lounge. I took a shower and ask to reserve one of 13 private suites. The private suites can be reserved for business and Elite Plus passengers with a 4-7 hour connection, as long as one of the flights exceeds 8 hours. Since all suites were occupied or being cleaned, I was asked to come back an hour later. The day beds in the lounge, however, were largely unoccupied.
After gorging myself on more food, I made my way back to the reception an hour later to check-in to my suite.
I napped for a solid two hours before heading to the gate.
IST-ATL
Turkish Airlines TK31
14:05-19:40
789
In September, Atlanta became the second U.S. destination to receive the 787-9 after IAD. The seats, manufactured by Stelia, are similar to SQ's regional business class product on their 787-10s though TK is using the seat for long-haul flights.
As you would expect from a brand new aircraft, the cabin and seat finishes were gorgeous. But the seats and footwell were narrow and I constantly found my legs and knees hitting the sides of the seat while sleeping. For sleeping, I'm actually conflicted between this seat and the 777, though privacy on these new Stelia seats is unbeatable.
The J cabin was initially only about 60% booked, but we ended departing with a full load. Weather delayed many northeast US flights by several hours, causing several rebooked customers to be transferred to our flight.
Today's menu.
Canapés were served 70 minutes after takeoff.
Followed by the starter trolley 55 minutes later.
The main course was brought out 15 minutes later. The lamb chops were good, but slightly overcooked.
And the dessert and coffee/tea trolley another 55 minutes later. In total, the meal service from canapés to dessert lasted 2.5 hours. Lights were dimmed and turndown service was offered 4 hours after departure. I'm not sure if crews are just starting to get used to the 787-9, but service and flow was exceedingly slow.
I slept for about 4 hours before lights were turned on again for the second meal service.
The chicken was dry and largely forgettable.
This time, the meal service, from start to finish, was completed in 45 minutes. With two hours to go until landing, I reclined my seat for another nap before landing. The descent into Atlanta gave us great views of the city.
I had an expiring Chase IHG free night certificate so I used that on an overnight at the Kimpton Overland Hotel. This is the first Kimpton in Atlanta and goes for 40k IHG points a night.
The layout of the room was a little strange given the exposed bathroom.
Overall, the stay was fine, but I wouldn't necessarily go out of my way to stay at this particular Kimpton again.
17 October
The final two United flights were about as boring and ordinary as domestic flights could get. This forum doesn't need any more reports of United domestic flights, so I'll keep this part short.
ATL-ORD
United Airlines UA3405
08:05-09:15
Way back in the day, when I lived in Atlanta and was still flying UA, one of my biggest frustrations was the lack of a United Club. I hadn't flown out of a T gate in years, so I was excited to visit the new-ish United Club.
While the breakfast offerings were unmemorable, the sunrise was magnificent. There's always something special about the late sunrises that Atlanta gets in the fall.
As were the views on approach to ORD.
ORD-LGA
United Airlines UA1741
12:00-15:14
319
After killing time in the B6 and B18 clubs, I was onboard a 319 to LGA. I loathe these butt-numbing seats more than any other Y seat in the UA fleet, but was glad to see the stroopwafel offered on this afternoon flight.
Conclusion
A couple that I met along the Pamir Highway told me the following story. There are four types of fun: Type 1 fun is the feeling you get when you know you're going to Disneyland. You're happy before you even get to to Disneyland, knowing that you'll have a great time there. Type 2 fun is the fun you get when you fall into the water while whitewater rafting. The water is paralyzingly cold for a moment, but when you get out of the water, you have fun. Type 3 fun is the when you're on a road trip and you have a flat tire. It sucks for more than a moment, but when you look back at the trip once you're done with the trip, you realize how much fun you had. Type 4 fun is the fun that leaves you angry and biter for a long time, but eventually, you realize an appreciation and deeper takeaway from the experience. It's like being turned away at a border or getting a visa denial. You're angry and bitter, and you blame others. But in the end, you realize the experience made you a better, more prepared traveler.
The Pamir Highway falls somewhere between Type 2 and Type 3 fun. Flying to Tajikistan with only a one-way ticket, no plans, and no travel companions was scary. From potholed roads to freezing nights, questionable food and water hygiene to filthy outhouses, there is no denying that the beauty of the Pamir and Wakhan requires a tradeoff with comfort.
But two weeks on, it's easy to realize how every uncomfortable moment led to an experience beyond my wildest dreams. The Pamir Highway is one of the greatest road trips on this planet. And scrolling through the camera roll is just the consolation prize.
Last edited by 9vska; Oct 28, 2019 at 3:41 pm
Oct 20, 2019, 5:12 pm
#5
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: St. Paul, MN
Programs: Delta Platinum Medallion, IHG Gold, HH Silver
Posts: 448
Great report so far! I have never seen photos I don't think from Tajikistan so interesting to see some of your first photos from Dushanbe. What an interesting sounding trip.
TK looks great as usual; I need to try them sometime; definitely seen a lot of reports about them, and still have yet to travel with them.
TK looks great as usual; I need to try them sometime; definitely seen a lot of reports about them, and still have yet to travel with them.
.
Oct 21, 2019, 10:18 am
#7
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Programs: BAEC
Posts: 2,644
Great report so far! I just got back from Kazakhstan/Tajikistan/Uzbekistan, and did two of the same flights (TSE-ALA-DYU) as you, although in the back of the bus. Interesting to see their J proposition. I met up with a few people that did the Pamir highway - it's on my list now!
Also, that red firetruck in Dushanbe was parked in the same position since at least early Sept haha.
Also, that red firetruck in Dushanbe was parked in the same position since at least early Sept haha.
Oct 24, 2019, 11:00 pm
#9
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: LAS/SIN
Programs: TK E+, AS Gold
Posts: 67
Great report so far! I just got back from Kazakhstan/Tajikistan/Uzbekistan, and did two of the same flights (TSE-ALA-DYU) as you, although in the back of the bus. Interesting to see their J proposition. I met up with a few people that did the Pamir highway - it's on my list now!
Also, that red firetruck in Dushanbe was parked in the same position since at least early Sept haha.
Also, that red firetruck in Dushanbe was parked in the same position since at least early Sept haha.
Oct 25, 2019, 8:31 pm
#10
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Central Florida
Programs: UA, IHG
Posts: 464
Wow! Excellent! I wish I were there.
Most of the narrative and photos left me speechless, but I need to comment on this one about the water. There is a similar pipe with water spilling out of it on Seward Highway (mile post 109 IIRC). Folks come down there from Anchorage with big water cans to fill 'em up. Locals swear by that water and there were some we met who wouldn't use any other water at all.
[...]
Our final stop of the day was the site of a mineral water fountain. Literally, mineral water (just look at the discoloration of the rock!). Needless to say, one sip was more than enough for me. The locals, as demonstrated by our driver below, believe that the highly-concentrated mineral water provides many health benefits.
[...]
This marks the end of the Part II. Part III will cover the journey back from Osh with Air Manas and Turkish Airlines. Thanks for following along!
Our final stop of the day was the site of a mineral water fountain. Literally, mineral water (just look at the discoloration of the rock!). Needless to say, one sip was more than enough for me. The locals, as demonstrated by our driver below, believe that the highly-concentrated mineral water provides many health benefits.
[...]
This marks the end of the Part II. Part III will cover the journey back from Osh with Air Manas and Turkish Airlines. Thanks for following along!
Oct 26, 2019, 5:12 am
#12
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: YOW
Programs: AC 75K
Posts: 583
Only managed to look through 2/3rds of your TR so far, will be back later today to finish it part 2! Always enjoyable reading reports on unique areas of the world that are very rarely showcased, much less posted about on FT! A welcome change to the usual CX/AF/JL F etc etc ^