Iceland - things to do and see (some not in guidebooks)
Aug 12, 2018, 10:29 am
#1
Moderator: American AAdvantage
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2000
Location: NorCal - SMF area
Programs: AA LT Plat; HH LT Diamond, Maître-plongeur des Muccis
Posts: 62,948
Iceland - things to do and see (some not in guidebooks)
I originally posted this in a thread about renting and driving, but I think we could benefit from a thread where we can post our experiences and suggestions for others - especially for those with broader interests than the Blue Lagoon and Brennivin. 
So, to start:
When driving southeast from Reykjavik - Keflavík close by the coast en route toward Skögafoss, Vik and Jökulsárlón, look South toward the Vestmanneyjar / Westman Islands. There’s a frequent mirage where the islands look very close and you can see even such details as structures on the islands. Of course, they’re actually pretty far - and the next time you look they might just be fits in the distance. This is one of those details you probably won’t read about in a guidebook, but IMO it’s an interesting phenomenon in its own right.
Another is a rural traditional rural sod farmhouse, art gallery and friendly café on the road to Vik, Íslenski bćrinn / Icelandic Turf House) not far from Reykjavik near Selfoss (look for very low profile signage - a bit challenging to find, look for the large modern turf house version gallery off the highway). Austur-Međalholt, Selfoss.
It was fascinating to see how pioneering Icelanders lived and the turf houses that allowed them and their animals to survive the windy, brutal winter weather - our host had lived in this house as a child, prior to moving with his family to Reykjavik. The exhibit hall next door highlights local artists.
Open Sundays, but also by appointment:
Telephones:
+354 694 8108
+354 864 4484
+354 892 2702
Email: islenskibaerinn <at> islenskibaerinn.is
The café, Kaffi Vöđlakot, operated by luthier from Netherlands, 1,500 ISK for coffee, cake, a very pleasant interlude. We listened to some langspil (traditional Icelandic lute) music, had a very nice home made cake and had to insist on getting a price and paying, as the host was happy to serve and entertain us, but a bit reticent to charge us. No tourists, just a few Icelanders out for a Sunday outing were there. We visited 7 Jul 2016, and the café has changed hands - be prepared to pay, but very reasonable pricing. More information at Íslenski Bćrinn Turf House. Also on Facebook. Highly recommended.
But... generally restricted to being open weekends, especially Sunday, during the summer. Contact information on the website and Facebook. Or, for the café,
@vodlakot on Twitter for the Café
Call +354 696 1321
vodlakot <ar> gmail.com
The more known attractions in the Vik area are waterfalls and beaches. You can read about those on Guide to Iceland, The beautiful Waterfalls of South-Iceland; Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss & Gljúfrabúi, by Regína Hrönn Ragnarsdóttir, here. We also visited these on our southeast I eland visit.
I’ll add some of our experiences and suggestions. Please do add yours.
So, to start:
When driving southeast from Reykjavik - Keflavík close by the coast en route toward Skögafoss, Vik and Jökulsárlón, look South toward the Vestmanneyjar / Westman Islands. There’s a frequent mirage where the islands look very close and you can see even such details as structures on the islands. Of course, they’re actually pretty far - and the next time you look they might just be fits in the distance. This is one of those details you probably won’t read about in a guidebook, but IMO it’s an interesting phenomenon in its own right.
Another is a rural traditional rural sod farmhouse, art gallery and friendly café on the road to Vik, Íslenski bćrinn / Icelandic Turf House) not far from Reykjavik near Selfoss (look for very low profile signage - a bit challenging to find, look for the large modern turf house version gallery off the highway). Austur-Međalholt, Selfoss.
It was fascinating to see how pioneering Icelanders lived and the turf houses that allowed them and their animals to survive the windy, brutal winter weather - our host had lived in this house as a child, prior to moving with his family to Reykjavik. The exhibit hall next door highlights local artists.
Open Sundays, but also by appointment:
Telephones:
+354 694 8108
+354 864 4484
+354 892 2702
Email: islenskibaerinn <at> islenskibaerinn.is
The café, Kaffi Vöđlakot, operated by luthier from Netherlands, 1,500 ISK for coffee, cake, a very pleasant interlude. We listened to some langspil (traditional Icelandic lute) music, had a very nice home made cake and had to insist on getting a price and paying, as the host was happy to serve and entertain us, but a bit reticent to charge us. No tourists, just a few Icelanders out for a Sunday outing were there. We visited 7 Jul 2016, and the café has changed hands - be prepared to pay, but very reasonable pricing. More information at Íslenski Bćrinn Turf House. Also on Facebook. Highly recommended.
But... generally restricted to being open weekends, especially Sunday, during the summer. Contact information on the website and Facebook. Or, for the café,
@vodlakot on Twitter for the Café
Call +354 696 1321
vodlakot <ar> gmail.com
The more known attractions in the Vik area are waterfalls and beaches. You can read about those on Guide to Iceland, The beautiful Waterfalls of South-Iceland; Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss & Gljúfrabúi, by Regína Hrönn Ragnarsdóttir, here. We also visited these on our southeast I eland visit.
I’ll add some of our experiences and suggestions. Please do add yours.
Last edited by JDiver; Aug 12, 2018 at 3:06 pm
Aug 12, 2018, 3:18 pm
#2
Moderator: American AAdvantage
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2000
Location: NorCal - SMF area
Programs: AA LT Plat; HH LT Diamond, Maître-plongeur des Muccis
Posts: 62,948
Reykjavik Bike Tours (recommended)
Operations: Aegisgardur 7, 101 Reykjavik
Postal address: Hringbraut 105, 101 Reykjavik
http://icelandbike.com
Mobile: + 354 897 2790
Skype: stefan.helgi.valsson
E-mail:bike <at> icelandbike.com
Operations: Aegisgardur 7, 101 Reykjavik
Postal address: Hringbraut 105, 101 Reykjavik
http://icelandbike.com
Mobile: + 354 897 2790
Skype: stefan.helgi.valsson
E-mail:bike <at> icelandbike.com
Aug 12, 2018, 4:05 pm
#3
Moderator: American AAdvantage
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2000
Location: NorCal - SMF area
Programs: AA LT Plat; HH LT Diamond, Maître-plongeur des Muccis
Posts: 62,948
Skálanes Nature Reserve is another fascinating place we visited (though not everyone’s cup of team, I’m sure). We loved visiting Skálanes and learning about the long term research going on here, and really enjoyed the cozy, quaint and welcoming town of Seyđisfjörđur.
Skálanes lies on the southern side of the fjord, 19km / 6.5 mi east of Seyđisfjörđur in the East fjords region of East Iceland. It takes approximately half an hour in a four wheel drive vehicle to drive from the town along a rough track along the fjord past an abandoned fish processing plant, abandoned and active small farms, and has three river ford crossings. The last 4km / 2.5 mi is therefore only passable by four-wheel drive vehicle, or on foot or mountain bike along a marked trail with footbridges. You will see wildlife (birds) and beautiful scenery en route.
We were dive bombed by Arctic terns nesting in the grassy areas, holding hats or umbrellas aloft to blunt their attacks, and hiked out to a scenic viewpoint, enjoying sightings of birdlife and nature concentrated to stark ocean scenery dense low bush by the winds. After, we stopped by the activity and dining rooms and learned more about Skálanes, originally built in 1927.
Skálanes is a onetime eider duck feather “farm*”, converted by the recent owners’ son, Ólafur Pétursson. His vision was to allow the peninsula farm to return to its original natural state and open it up for research. The eider farm became part of an independent nature reserve, with guest house, dining, field centre for students to carry out research. University of Glasgow, Wellesley, Southern Connecticut State University and others. Some camp, others stay in the cozy rooms available to researchers and visitors.
8,000 ISK: Return pickup from Seyđisfjörđur
9,800 ISK: Bed & Breakfast cost per person
Skálanes Nature Reserve
710 Seyđisfjörđur, (northeast) Iceland
[email protected]
Skálanes | Nature & Heritage Centre
Tel: +354-779-7008
Kt: 560606 2490
Link to article by John Rogers on Grapevine.
Link to Wikipedia article on Skálanes
*Traditionally, eider ducks are neither raised domestically nor hand plucked., though there are those kind of factory feather farms that do both. Here, in nature, the ducks will migrate here to reproduce and line their ground nest with down feathers plucked from their chests. Once the eggs have hatched and the ducklings marched down to embark on their lives on the sea, the abandoned down is harvested, cleaned and either used to fill top of the line pillows and comforters, or shipped - mostly to Japan. Typically, in the old days, the Icelandic family used long winter dark days to spend time in the sod or farm house sorting and cleaning the eider down by lamp light.
“It’s two things that attract people here,” says Óli. “First, we have beautiful mountains, the view over the fjörd, whales sometimes, seals in summer, and reindeer; and then 600-metre bird cliffs right next to house. People like to come and look at all of that. Second, we set things up with people who want to come to Skálanes for longer—those who come to be involved with our projects, and have an interest in how the place is run.”
“This trip is definitely different from most,” says Ólafur. “For example, there’s always a bus leaving to Mývatn from Akureyri, and there’s always a boat going whale watching at Húsavík. But there’s not always something happening here. We’re aiming for something more intimate, that shows a lot about the area. We don’t want to reduce the trip to ‘Seyđisfjörđur—the town of a fish factory’ or ‘Seyđisfjörđur—a historic town’ or ‘Seyđisfjörđur—a bohemian town.’ Because it’s all of those things, and more besides.” - Oli Pétursson
“This trip is definitely different from most,” says Ólafur. “For example, there’s always a bus leaving to Mývatn from Akureyri, and there’s always a boat going whale watching at Húsavík. But there’s not always something happening here. We’re aiming for something more intimate, that shows a lot about the area. We don’t want to reduce the trip to ‘Seyđisfjörđur—the town of a fish factory’ or ‘Seyđisfjörđur—a historic town’ or ‘Seyđisfjörđur—a bohemian town.’ Because it’s all of those things, and more besides.” - Oli Pétursson
Wander a few steps from the front door to watch the sea bird colonies on the cliffs. Look out for seals and whales from the black sandy beaches, and enjoy the tranquility and beauty of the wild flower meadows. The nature reserve has a wide range of natural spectacles including waterfalls, snowfields, reindeer, geological formations, archeological sites, and a large arctic tern colony.
Skálanes is a onetime eider duck feather “farm*”, converted by the recent owners’ son, Ólafur Pétursson. His vision was to allow the peninsula farm to return to its original natural state and open it up for research. The eider farm became part of an independent nature reserve, with guest house, dining, field centre for students to carry out research. University of Glasgow, Wellesley, Southern Connecticut State University and others. Some camp, others stay in the cozy rooms available to researchers and visitors.
“We hosted about 100 students last summer, coming to do projects of all sorts,” Óli explains. “They leave the information which they collect behind for us to use. So we subsidise them, they get to do interesting work, and people who stay here can feel they’re supporting a place that’s trying to make a difference.”
9,800 ISK: Bed & Breakfast cost per person
Skálanes Nature Reserve
710 Seyđisfjörđur, (northeast) Iceland
[email protected]
Skálanes | Nature & Heritage Centre
Tel: +354-779-7008
Kt: 560606 2490
Link to article by John Rogers on Grapevine.
Link to Wikipedia article on Skálanes
*Traditionally, eider ducks are neither raised domestically nor hand plucked., though there are those kind of factory feather farms that do both. Here, in nature, the ducks will migrate here to reproduce and line their ground nest with down feathers plucked from their chests. Once the eggs have hatched and the ducklings marched down to embark on their lives on the sea, the abandoned down is harvested, cleaned and either used to fill top of the line pillows and comforters, or shipped - mostly to Japan. Typically, in the old days, the Icelandic family used long winter dark days to spend time in the sod or farm house sorting and cleaning the eider down by lamp light.
Last edited by JDiver; Aug 13, 2018 at 1:35 am
Feb 23, 2019, 9:43 pm
#4
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Hawai'i Nei
Programs: Au: UA, Marriott, Hilton; GE
Posts: 7,132
@JDiver -- Many thanks for all the helpful information. I do have a question: We will be staying for four nights in Reykjavik, and a big part of our stay will be to get over two red-eye-induced jet lag. For sure we don't want to do anything too ambitious our first day there, but afterwards, I'd like to purchase a day trip along the South Coast. Do you have suggestions for companies that offer this experience, and how far we can realistically go on a full-day tour with a return to Reykjavik?
Many thanks!
Many thanks!
Feb 25, 2019, 4:23 pm
#5
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Formerly Box 350, Boston Mass, Oh two one three four. Now near Beverly Hills 90210
Programs: Loyal Order of Water Buffalos
Posts: 3,934
Vik and the Black Sand beaches are about as far as you can go on a day trip. An overnight trip gets you to Jokulsarlon. SO worth the investment to get out to there!
Feb 25, 2019, 9:06 pm
#6
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Hawai'i Nei
Programs: Au: UA, Marriott, Hilton; GE
Posts: 7,132
Feb 26, 2019, 12:58 am
#7
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 969
Did a day trip to the Glacier and Black Sand beach at the end of November. If there's more daylight hours, you'll see more. We were coming back and stopping at a waterfall in the dark. If we had the time, we would have done a 2-day trip. The company we went with was RE. It was on a big coach, not a minibus, which I don't care for. Even so, it was worth it IMO.
Mar 7, 2019, 8:46 pm
#8
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: London, UK
Programs: BA Silver
Posts: 57
If you're visiting the Westfjords, the Heydalur Country Hotel was one of the most memorable stays I've had in a while. They often have a semi-tame Arctic fox on the property, depending on the season, as well as convenient hot springs.
I was fortunate to have my camera at the ready when this cheeky chap made a visit!
Closer to the beaten path, but if you are doing the golden circle tour, there is a geothermally powered greenhouse growing tomatoes on the way back just off the 35 road, Friđheimar Farm. They have a restaurant inside where they have the most incredible tomato-based dishes. Best Bloody Mary and tomato soup I've ever had in my life!
I was fortunate to have my camera at the ready when this cheeky chap made a visit!
Closer to the beaten path, but if you are doing the golden circle tour, there is a geothermally powered greenhouse growing tomatoes on the way back just off the 35 road, Friđheimar Farm. They have a restaurant inside where they have the most incredible tomato-based dishes. Best Bloody Mary and tomato soup I've ever had in my life!
Last edited by saccosekk; Mar 7, 2019 at 8:51 pm Reason: Add photo, fix punctuation
Mar 10, 2019, 5:47 pm
#9
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Formerly Box 350, Boston Mass, Oh two one three four. Now near Beverly Hills 90210
Programs: Loyal Order of Water Buffalos
Posts: 3,934
We are going to the tomato farm this coming September.
And if you don't see the arctic foxes at the hotel, there is the Arctic Fox rescue center, not far from Isafjordur
And if you don't see the arctic foxes at the hotel, there is the Arctic Fox rescue center, not far from Isafjordur
Mar 24, 2019, 2:22 am
#10
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Strangeville
Posts: 29
If you're visiting the Westfjords, the Heydalur Country Hotel was one of the most memorable stays I've had in a while. They often have a semi-tame Arctic fox on the property, depending on the season, as well as convenient hot springs.
I was fortunate to have my camera at the ready when this cheeky chap made a visit!
Closer to the beaten path, but if you are doing the golden circle tour, there is a geothermally powered greenhouse growing tomatoes on the way back just off the 35 road, Friđheimar Farm. They have a restaurant inside where they have the most incredible tomato-based dishes. Best Bloody Mary and tomato soup I've ever had in my life!
I was fortunate to have my camera at the ready when this cheeky chap made a visit!
Closer to the beaten path, but if you are doing the golden circle tour, there is a geothermally powered greenhouse growing tomatoes on the way back just off the 35 road, Friđheimar Farm. They have a restaurant inside where they have the most incredible tomato-based dishes. Best Bloody Mary and tomato soup I've ever had in my life!
Besides the food, you eat by the tomato plants and you can also check the bee farm they got. This is quite unique as these bees were brought exclusively from The Netherlands if I remember correctly. The story of the place is also very interesting as growing plants in Iceland is not an easy thing to do. Everything above the grown has many chances to die due to the climate conditions.