Nello
 

Never been, never intend to go. But quite an, um, interesting review by Sam Sifton in today's NYT.

"Nello, which opened in 1992, is an ecosystem that is almost incomprehensible to those not a part of it. The food is not very good. Yet the restaurant’s customer base is built of the richest and most coddled people in the city, who love it for its elegance and, perhaps, simplicity."

...

"They ate crisp artichokes offered as carciofi alla giudia. These tasted of shirt cardboard. They ate sawdusty chicken livers lashed with balsamic. They sipped at lentil soup familiar to anyone who owns a can opener and shared too-salty saffron risotto, correctly yellow, of no particular flavor."

Ouch!

I posted part of the review on my facebook this morning saying it was easily the funniest and one of the worst reviews I've read in ages. But I bet they are still lining up for the $100 a plate pasta.

It's not often you see a review referring to food in an expensive place as tasting like shoe (well not places that have wine up to $5,000 a bottle)

Vitello tonnato, meanwhile, looks good enough straight from the kitchen. It tastes like sliced shoe, though, against a tuna sauce that carries a Miracle Whip tang. It’s grim, especially at $32.

I have really been enjoying Sam Sifton's writing since he took over for Bruney. What remains to be seen, however, is the extent to which I come to trust his reviews. He called Motorino NYC's best pizza; my gf and I think Co. is far superior (and this week tried for the first time and love Artichoke). He also bumped Strip House from one star to two, on the basis of which my gf and I went, but we didn't love it. (I have no intention of trying Nello, so this week's piece won't help.)

Our own Landing Gear agrees with the Motorino rating. I have yet to try either Motorino or Co.

I am not a fan of the Strip House, based on one unimpressive visit.

I think Landing Gear is somewhat of a regular at Motorino and friends with the owner, which would explain his warm feelings for the place. Note that I didn't think it was bad -- quite the contrary -- I'd be happy to go back to and recommed Motorino; it was just that I think Co. is better.

I am indeed a regular at Motorino and friendly with the owner, Mathieu Palumbino, although I wouldn't call us "friends" since I don't seem him outside the restaurant. Notwithstanding this "relationship," I would not hesitate to recommend another place if I liked it.

For the record, I have been slamming DiFara's and other places for a long time before Motorino opened.

Back to the topic, I just loved Sifton's review of Nello and I've actually been there back when he first opened. I was surprised given the sharp wit he employed that he did not mention Nello's previous sales tax evasion problem.

Anybody see the nonsense this week on Eater about Sifton eating at KFC?