Beirut and Jordan
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Seattle
Posts: 85
Beirut and Jordan
I'm planning a trip to Beirut and Lebanon for October/November of 2020. This trip will be over my 50th birthday (suggestions for that day welcome) and I'll be traveling with my sister - so two blonde women.
My itinerary is as follows and I welcome any and all suggestions:
Day 1, arrive in Beirut at midnight
Day 2, Beirut: city sighseeing – walking tour; eating
Day 3, day trip Jeita Grotto, Harissa, Byblos
Day 4, explore Beirut or another day trip
Day 5, check out and move to Spa in Broumana (this is a Marriott property - any better suggestions?)
Day 6 (birthday day), spa day
Day 7, check out and flight to Amman
Day 7, arrive in Amman and rent car, drive to Petra
Day 8, Petra
Day 9, drive to Wadi Rum
Day 10, Wadi Rum
Day 11 drive back towards Amman, stop at Dead Sea
Day 12, Amman
Day 13, day trip to Jerusalem
Day 14, Amman
Day 15, flight back from Amman
Do you think we should stay a night at the Dead Sea? I imagine it being just a big touristy cess pool of people in shallow water - not appealing to me at all, but I feel like we need to stop here.
Any suggestions for where to stay in Wadi Rum? We'd like to stay in a camp in the desert, but will need to park our car somewhere...
If you have any great restaurant suggestions for a birthday dinner, please let's hear it.
Thanks for your thoughts.
My itinerary is as follows and I welcome any and all suggestions:
Day 1, arrive in Beirut at midnight
Day 2, Beirut: city sighseeing – walking tour; eating
Day 3, day trip Jeita Grotto, Harissa, Byblos
Day 4, explore Beirut or another day trip
Day 5, check out and move to Spa in Broumana (this is a Marriott property - any better suggestions?)
Day 6 (birthday day), spa day
Day 7, check out and flight to Amman
Day 7, arrive in Amman and rent car, drive to Petra
Day 8, Petra
Day 9, drive to Wadi Rum
Day 10, Wadi Rum
Day 11 drive back towards Amman, stop at Dead Sea
Day 12, Amman
Day 13, day trip to Jerusalem
Day 14, Amman
Day 15, flight back from Amman
Do you think we should stay a night at the Dead Sea? I imagine it being just a big touristy cess pool of people in shallow water - not appealing to me at all, but I feel like we need to stop here.
Any suggestions for where to stay in Wadi Rum? We'd like to stay in a camp in the desert, but will need to park our car somewhere...
If you have any great restaurant suggestions for a birthday dinner, please let's hear it.
Thanks for your thoughts.
#2
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: LAX
Programs: AA PLT / 2MM
Posts: 2,021
Some comments:
- I'd definitely add in a Baalbek visit to your Beirut itinerary. Roman ruins in great shape with almost no tourists; unless you're bored out of your mind by Roman ruins (NTTAWWT), it's a can't miss. It would work well for day 4. One full day seeing Beirut city cites is fine.
- There are a few easy and common tourist stops on the way to Petra via the King's Highway; if you already have a car, you might as well hit some of them. The Madaba map is pretty cool and can be seen quickly. Mt. Nebo (where Moses died) has amazing views and is very important from a biblical history perspective. Kerak castle is okay.
- Amman just isn't that interesting. Jerash, the Roman ruins near the city, is a half-day activity; nothing much in Amman is very interesting. Two full days in Amman sounds very excessive.
- Definitely do an overnight with the bedouins at Wadi Rum. Many different options depending on your level of luxury -- 5 star camping to roughing it. You can park your non-4x4 rental at the entrance to the village, and your bedouin host will pick you up in the 4x4.
- The Dead Sea in Jordan isn't exactly a tourist cesspool. Way more tourists on the Israeli side. I think the Dead Sea is cool and I've been about 4-5 times total on both the Israeli and Jordanian side, but it's a quick experience -- go in the water and float and take a pic, and maybe put on the mud if you're into that. People make it into a resort experience, but it's not my thing and it doesn't sound like your thing either. So visit it quickly and move on.
- A day trip to Jerusalem from Amman is logistically impossible for a variety of reasons. Consider doing an open-jaw ticket and flying out of TLV
- I'd definitely add in a Baalbek visit to your Beirut itinerary. Roman ruins in great shape with almost no tourists; unless you're bored out of your mind by Roman ruins (NTTAWWT), it's a can't miss. It would work well for day 4. One full day seeing Beirut city cites is fine.
- There are a few easy and common tourist stops on the way to Petra via the King's Highway; if you already have a car, you might as well hit some of them. The Madaba map is pretty cool and can be seen quickly. Mt. Nebo (where Moses died) has amazing views and is very important from a biblical history perspective. Kerak castle is okay.
- Amman just isn't that interesting. Jerash, the Roman ruins near the city, is a half-day activity; nothing much in Amman is very interesting. Two full days in Amman sounds very excessive.
- Definitely do an overnight with the bedouins at Wadi Rum. Many different options depending on your level of luxury -- 5 star camping to roughing it. You can park your non-4x4 rental at the entrance to the village, and your bedouin host will pick you up in the 4x4.
- The Dead Sea in Jordan isn't exactly a tourist cesspool. Way more tourists on the Israeli side. I think the Dead Sea is cool and I've been about 4-5 times total on both the Israeli and Jordanian side, but it's a quick experience -- go in the water and float and take a pic, and maybe put on the mud if you're into that. People make it into a resort experience, but it's not my thing and it doesn't sound like your thing either. So visit it quickly and move on.
- A day trip to Jerusalem from Amman is logistically impossible for a variety of reasons. Consider doing an open-jaw ticket and flying out of TLV
#3
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 336
A more efficient itinerary would be:
Day 10, Wadi Rum, Aqaba
Day 11 enter Israel at Eilat, fly or bus to Jerusalem
Day 12, Jerusalem
Day 13 Jerusalem
Day 14 Day trip to Dead Sea
Day 15 Flight back from Tel Aviv
If you don't buy an open-jaw ticket:
Day 11 enter Israel at Eilat, fly or bus to Jerusalem
Day 12, Jerusalem
Day 13 Day trip to Dead Sea
Day 14 return to Amman via King Hussein (Allenby) Bridge
Day 15 Flight back from Amman
Day 10, Wadi Rum, Aqaba
Day 11 enter Israel at Eilat, fly or bus to Jerusalem
Day 12, Jerusalem
Day 13 Jerusalem
Day 14 Day trip to Dead Sea
Day 15 Flight back from Tel Aviv
If you don't buy an open-jaw ticket:
Day 11 enter Israel at Eilat, fly or bus to Jerusalem
Day 12, Jerusalem
Day 13 Day trip to Dead Sea
Day 14 return to Amman via King Hussein (Allenby) Bridge
Day 15 Flight back from Amman
#4
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: LAX
Programs: AA PLT / 2MM
Posts: 2,021
Agreed
If you don't buy an open-jaw ticket:
Day 11 enter Israel at Eilat, fly or bus to Jerusalem
Day 12, Jerusalem
Day 13 Day trip to Dead Sea
Day 14 return to Amman via King Hussein (Allenby) Bridge
Day 15 Flight back from Amman
Day 12, Jerusalem
Day 13 Day trip to Dead Sea
Day 14 return to Amman via King Hussein (Allenby) Bridge
Day 15 Flight back from Amman
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Seattle
Posts: 85
Thank you guys for your excellent insight! I think I'll drop the Jerusalem part and plan on seeing Israel on a separate trip. When I read about the day trip, it seemed too easy not to do. Instead, I might add another night (for 3 nights) at Wadi Rum, unless you guys think there is another must do in Jordan. We for sure intend to stop at Mt. Nebo, Kerak and Madaba. Either on the way to or from Wadi Rum.
#6
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: May 1998
Location: Massachusetts, USA; AA Plat (2.90MM), DL GM and Flying Colonel (1.04MM); Bonvoy Gold
Posts: 23,009
Thank you guys for your excellent insight! I think I'll drop the Jerusalem part and plan on seeing Israel on a separate trip. When I read about the day trip, it seemed too easy not to do. Instead, I might add another night (for 3 nights) at Wadi Rum, unless you guys think there is another must do in Jordan. We for sure intend to stop at Mt. Nebo, Kerak and Madaba. Either on the way to or from Wadi Rum.
#7
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: CPT,AMS
Posts: 4,075
If you are already in Wadi Rum, you could drive down to Aqaba and dive/snorkel or just spend time by the beach. (and spend the night either in Aqaba or back in Wadi Rum)
#9
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Seattle
Posts: 85
#10
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Nov 1999
Programs: statusless these days
Posts: 20,221
Depends on your stamina an physical fitness, I suppose. We had two full days there and used it all (one day entering via an alternative slot canyon - not advisable). Most people only see the "treasury" which is at the end of the slot canyon used at the normal entrance, and maybe the Roman amphitheatre a little bit further down. We went to the forum, above the "treasury" so as to look down on it, to the "monastery" (via the front and rear means on access) and a few sites around. Could be done in a long day if you are fast and fit enough.
#11
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,012
Planning a trip next year to Jordan and we're planning to do two nights in Petra. Probably half a day on day 1 (driving there) + the night Petra and then day 2 full day. The price difference for a second day at Petra isn't much more once you get the Jordan pass.
#12
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: LAX
Programs: AA PLT / 2MM
Posts: 2,021
OP: Not sure about the current security/visa situation, but is any of Syria in any way possible now? I did Lebanon-->Syria-->Jordan before the whole Arab Spring / Civil War / ISIS. Syria was amazing. Something to consider. Maybe the time's not right.
Maybe consider spending more time in Lebanon rather than adding on days to things in Jordan if you dont think it's necessary. Lebanon is much more pure/untouristed than Jordan, so I'd value that. I'm not sure what else there is in Lebanon to see besides what you're seeing and what I've already suggested. Maybe a trip to the forest to see the ancient Cedars of Lebanon? (I didn't get there.)
One very long day was perfect for us. We got there first thing in the morning, and saw everything including the monastery and all the other highlights. We even did some mini-walks that were off the beaten path and away from the crowds / tour groups. Petra was most enjoyable at the very beginning of the day and at the very end of the day, when it's much more quiet without all the tour groups, day trippers, etc. Of course, depends on your energy level.
Maybe consider spending more time in Lebanon rather than adding on days to things in Jordan if you dont think it's necessary. Lebanon is much more pure/untouristed than Jordan, so I'd value that. I'm not sure what else there is in Lebanon to see besides what you're seeing and what I've already suggested. Maybe a trip to the forest to see the ancient Cedars of Lebanon? (I didn't get there.)
Depends on your stamina an physical fitness, I suppose. We had two full days there and used it all (one day entering via an alternative slot canyon - not advisable). Most people only see the "treasury" which is at the end of the slot canyon used at the normal entrance, and maybe the Roman amphitheatre a little bit further down. We went to the forum, above the "treasury" so as to look down on it, to the "monastery" (via the front and rear means on access) and a few sites around. Could be done in a long day if you are fast and fit enough.
#13
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Seattle
Posts: 85
OP: Not sure about the current security/visa situation, but is any of Syria in any way possible now? I did Lebanon-->Syria-->Jordan before the whole Arab Spring / Civil War / ISIS. Syria was amazing. Something to consider. Maybe the time's not right.
One very long day was perfect for us. We got there first thing in the morning, and saw everything including the monastery and all the other highlights. We even did some mini-walks that were off the beaten path and away from the crowds / tour groups. Petra was most enjoyable at the very beginning of the day and at the very end of the day, when it's much more quiet without all the tour groups, day trippers, etc. Of course, depends on your energy level.
One very long day was perfect for us. We got there first thing in the morning, and saw everything including the monastery and all the other highlights. We even did some mini-walks that were off the beaten path and away from the crowds / tour groups. Petra was most enjoyable at the very beginning of the day and at the very end of the day, when it's much more quiet without all the tour groups, day trippers, etc. Of course, depends on your energy level.
I also had to shorten our time all together due to vacation and flight issues, so now we only have 12 days in total, but I think it will work out perfectly. Our new itinerary:
Day 1, arrive in Beirut afternoon
Day 2, Beirut: city sighseeing – walking tour; eating
Day 3, day trip Jeita Grotto, Harissa, Byblos
Day 4, Baalbek day trip or another day in the city
Day 5, check out and fly to Amman; rent car drive to Petra via Mt. Nebo, etc.
Day 6, Petra
Day 7, Petra
Day 8, drive to Wadi Rum
Day 9, Wadi Rum
Day 10, drive from Wadi Rum back towards Amman; stop at Dead Sea
Day 11, Dead Sea; drive back to Amman, return car, eat.
Day 12, fly home
I am not sure if we should stay the night at the Dead Sea. I am pretty sure all we want to do is take a dip and put on some mud then shower off. However, if I find a great spa we might stay the night. This will make it easier to find a private beach (as it will be part of the resort), etc. We will still have one day in Amman before we fly home (well after driving there and returning the car) so we can check out the city.
Good to hear about one day at Petra. I imagine we could do it all in one day, but did you find you had enough time to reflect and enjoy the sights? I don't want to rush through, take pics and be out of there

#14
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: LAX
Programs: AA PLT / 2MM
Posts: 2,021
Your overall itinerary looks good. I'd do the Dead Sea as a quick visit rather than an overnight based on your statements. As previously mentioned, if you have the time for Jerash (half-day trip from Amman), I'd definitely prioritize it over anything else in Amman. I don't think you'd get Roman ruins OD'd between Baalbek and Jerash; they're both really good ruins.
We did enjoy Petra in our one full day and felt like we had time to enjoy/reflect. We were there from open to close, which was probably like 12 hours, so we had tons of time and weren't exactly rushing. Obviously that's a long day for many; different strokes for different folks.
I don't recall the Petra town (Wadi Musa) being anything to write home about. All I recall was tourist traps, overpriced/mediocre restaurants, tons of tourists walking around, etc. I don't enjoy these sorts of towns that exist for no purpose other than a popular ancient site that happens to be there... kind of like Siem Riep.
BTW, in Beirut, a couple restaurants:
- Abdel Wahab was a great restaurant w/ traditional food.
- Tawlet was a trendy Lebanese hipster place with really good food -- https://www.timeout.com/beirut/restaurants/tawlet
We did enjoy Petra in our one full day and felt like we had time to enjoy/reflect. We were there from open to close, which was probably like 12 hours, so we had tons of time and weren't exactly rushing. Obviously that's a long day for many; different strokes for different folks.
I don't recall the Petra town (Wadi Musa) being anything to write home about. All I recall was tourist traps, overpriced/mediocre restaurants, tons of tourists walking around, etc. I don't enjoy these sorts of towns that exist for no purpose other than a popular ancient site that happens to be there... kind of like Siem Riep.
BTW, in Beirut, a couple restaurants:
- Abdel Wahab was a great restaurant w/ traditional food.
- Tawlet was a trendy Lebanese hipster place with really good food -- https://www.timeout.com/beirut/restaurants/tawlet
#15
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Seattle
Posts: 85
Your overall itinerary looks good. I'd do the Dead Sea as a quick visit rather than an overnight based on your statements. As previously mentioned, if you have the time for Jerash (half-day trip from Amman), I'd definitely prioritize it over anything else in Amman. I don't think you'd get Roman ruins OD'd between Baalbek and Jerash; they're both really good ruins.
I don't recall the Petra town (Wadi Musa) being anything to write home about. All I recall was tourist traps, overpriced/mediocre restaurants, tons of tourists walking around, etc. I don't enjoy these sorts of towns that exist for no purpose other than a popular ancient site that happens to be there... kind of like Siem Riep.

BTW, in Beirut, a couple restaurants:
- Abdel Wahab was a great restaurant w/ traditional food.
- Tawlet was a trendy Lebanese hipster place with really good food -- https://www.timeout.com/beirut/restaurants/tawlet
- Abdel Wahab was a great restaurant w/ traditional food.
- Tawlet was a trendy Lebanese hipster place with really good food -- https://www.timeout.com/beirut/restaurants/tawlet
