Driving from MEX to Acapulco and surroundings...
 

I'm giving my parents (couple in mid- 50's) a trip to Mexico for their anniversary.

The plan is to fly into Mexico City from Miami, spend 4-5 days there and then go to Acapulco for 2-3 days. With that in mind, wanted to know transportation within Mexico. My questions are:

How long is the drive? Will it be easy for them to get around? They speak Spanish (they are Colombian), so language wouldn't be a problem. Is the highway between MEX and ACA safe and well signaled? Or would they be better off taking a 'Greyhound'? I checked flights and seem to be rather expensive.

I was also thinking they may be able to drive around and take day trips from MEX and ACA to little towns, ie TAXCO in ACA or the pyramids in MEX. What are your recommendations?

I thought about MEX and CUN as the other alternative, but I think driving distance would be too long.

Any other tips/recommendations and hotels where to stay are appreciated. They are looking to experience the Mexican culture, shopping, flea markets, real Mexican food, etc... not as much as a 'beach' vacation as they don't like to stay in a resort 24/7.

Thanks! :)

JC

It is best if they do not drive around Mexico City, unless they are very familiar with DF. It can be dangerous.

There are bus and plane options to/from DF and ACA.

They have a toll road now, and the drive is about 2.5 hoursl.

Unfortunately, the highway between MEX and ACA (known as the "autopista del sol" is in terrible conditions, desesperately needing maintenance. I don't recommend it for anyone. It is also know as the most expensive highway in Mexico (but the total lack of security is the worst aspect of it). :(

Thanks guys for the replies! I will re-consider the driving from MEX to ACA then.

Does anybody know how far is Oaxaca? Driving time and conditions?

I have driven those routes many times (most of MEX - ACA is freeway; Taxco and the nearby pyramids of Xochicalco are on the "old" winding mountain hroad and require a detour, though Taxco is a lovely colonial town worth overnighting in.)

Mexico City itself is a zoo to drive in - and with the current protests and blockades, sepecially of the central square, Madero and Reforma avenues, I'd probably pass on this one (unfortunately, Mr. Lopez Obrador called on the Mexicna people to continue their protest "years" if necessary.) As well, the toll stations on the various federal highways have been "liberated" by the PRD protesters, though so far they are allowing people to pass without paying tolls - they could as easily block traffic, and the Federal government could send troops or police to stop this interference with the Federal hgihways.

OTOH, the bus system is economical safe, and very comfortable - look for "Servicio Ejecutivo" level busses, which make the MEX-ACA run in a very few hours - much cheaper than gasoline, tolls, car rental, etc. and no worry about having a breakdown in Iguala or Cañon del Zopilote. Estrella de Oro is a great line - their Diamante (diamond) service includes reclining seats much like airline Business Class, clean restrooms, "stewardesses" to wait on you, etc. Far better than any bus system we have even imagined in the USA. EDO also has busses that do Mexico City - Cuernavaca - Taxco and Taxco - Acapulco, but these take longer and are not always the Diamante service. (These all leave from Mexico City's "Taxqueña" southern bus terminal; all seats are reserved.)

BTW, Acapulco is in the state of Guerrero - along with Sinaloa and some of Michoacan, a state where opium poppy and marijuana is grown, and a state where the "Hatfield-McCoy" feuding has gone on for many years. The criminal activity has on occasion invaded Acapulco, and has caused many a traveler troubles outside of Acapulco. In particular, driving at night and wandering / camping in remote areas is to be strongly discouraged - my friend Roberto and his sister were tied up and overheard their captors deciding whether to execute them; fortunately Alicia was pregnant, so they decided not to kill a pregnant woman and "merely" kneecapped Roberto, who will never walk easily again. Daytime driving on the expensive toll highway is generaly quite safe, and these are patrolled by the "Green Angels" roadside assistance service.

I don't mean to scare you of your friends - but Guerrero can be a tough state. Just as they would advise me to not visit some parts of Colombia, my recommendation would be to skip parts of Guerrero (Taxco is safe) and fly to Ixtapa - Zihuatanejo and stay in Zihuatanejo (Ixtapa is like a bit of Miami Beach or a strip of Cancún, "Zihua" is spread out around a lovely bay and feels much more liek the traditional town it is.) Flights to Ixtapa - Zihuatanejo (ZIH) are frequent and competitive, and this time I recommend you avoid the bus - because to get to Zihua, you have to travel via Acapulco first, and then go north up the Pacific Coast, a long trip.

Flying also avoids the possibility of highway disasters - summer is the rainy season, with the occasional Pacific hurricane (I am not speaking of drizzles, I am talking serious rainstorms measured in inches per hour and floods. More than once, the Mexico - Acapulco highway has been cut by floods, for days at a time.) For three days especially, I'd fly.

You also inquired about Oaxaca - the "new" Mexico - Oaxaca highway takes about four hours, and there is also an excellent bus service. But see the thread on Oaxaca to see why traveling to Oaxaca city is not recommended at this time - though once the disruptions settle, it would be fine; Oaxaca is a wonderful state with many villages sporting different traditions, crafts and arts.

When have you been there? I did it many times in the last 3 years and think this highway is really nice and safe but kind of expensive (about 800 pesos round trip). All the indications you need, frequent S.O.S., federal police (won't try to steal money from you), etc. if you want to see horrible highways just come to Quebec...

Even if this is a pleasant drive, I'd rather take the bus «www.estrelladeoro.com.mx » the «Diamante» service is awsome and cheap.(brand new Volvo bus with 24 huge seats and service onboard) Well, that's what I'm goona do next time in October when I'll go... no point to have a car in Acapulco in my case. :P

Not to throw a monkey wrench in your planning, but if they're going to experience Mexican culture...I'd recommend visiting Guadalajara and then driving to Vallarta or Manzanillo for the beach getaway.

Guadalajara is about 3-4 hours from PVR...it's not a bad drive. Obviously it's safer to travel during the day, but that holds true for just about anywhere in Mexico.

Very interesting insights... thank you all for all your detailed information about Mexico and its highways.

Seems like this is not the ideal time to go due to the political tensions going on... Maybe will re-schedule for next year, after Xmas.

I didn't think about Guadalajara and PV as they are on the west coast and tickets are more expensive from MIA, as opposed to MEX (and drive to ACA). Also, I thought ACA would cater an older crowd, same as Oaxaca. Good to know about the buses, will do the 'bus' experience based on your tips!

I actually went to PVR last Summer, and it was nice but I had higher expectations and when I was there it actually it dissapointed me... Don't get me wrong, it's a v.nice town, but too comercial for my taste (I think that has affected the nice architecture and colonial feeling of the town). Also, didn't go in season, but as you mentioned, I was there in Aug and it rained everday!!! I went to MEX for 3 days before going to PVR, and we had a great time, enjoyed the food, the people, how friendly they are! the museums, the neighborhoods, etc...

JC

I think Mexico is generally no less safe right now, with the current exception for the city of Oaxaca (the rest of the state should be pretty normal,) and the disruptions in traffic and services caused by the PRD civil disobedience largely confined to Mexico City.

With lower fares from MIA, Mexico City is always a good bet - and ZIH is an easy shot with lots of flights. With ~88,000 people and a history, it is IMO much nicer than some of the more recent highly-developed areaslike Ixtapa, the area north of Puerto Vallarta (particularly the newly-named Litibú, which is the next area targeted for instense development by the Department of Tourism.)

Colonial Taxco has been preserved by laws that require all construction conform to certain restrictions and is a nice place to visit (even in summer, it is at a high enough altitude to be spring-like and the rains are generally brief showers in the afternoon and occasional night rains.) Nearby is the interesting but undervisited archaeological site of Xochicalco (place of flowers,) a Toltec citadel where several cultures met periodically to adjust their calendar using a kind of observatory, and the extensive and interesting caves "Grutas de Cacahuamilpa."

Acapulco is old enough to have some history - but new enough it was only a small fishing village in my lifetime. (My uncle Ricardo used to fly down to ACA in his light airplane - he was offered some land, but he figured the palce would never amount to anything. Ooops!) So, no colonial buildings, but definitely some aging infrastructure, so rather than stately age, it suffers from seediness in some aspects IMO.

Cancún was selected and designed in the same process - but some of the coastal towns a couple of hours south of Cancún are nice (not so much surfing, due to the barrier reef that extends up the Caribbean coasts of Belize and much of the Yucatán peninsula,) and Mérida on the weekend is a great place as well.

March 2005 and July 2006

Yesterday, the national minister of communications and transport announced in television they will be reviewing major repairs to the Autopista del Sol, and are even considering lowering the toll fee.

Good to know aobut Autopista del Sol... Hopefully by the time they travel, next year, the tolls will be less expensive! I think they will be better off going next year, not because it is dangerous now with the political tensions, but it will be harder to get around MEX.

JDiver, thanks a lot for all your detailed info!

It's now a sure thing the extensive repairs to the highway as seen in this El Universal 's article.

Indeed, especially in night conditions. It took 10-15 minutes to figure out why everyone honk at me despite the signal is still red. At first, thought all drivers in this country are color blind(in particular green/red). Finally I discovered that, in Mexico it is against the local-rule halting the car while the signal is red. All you have to do is sneaking in the intersection(doing it "carefully" would be preferable for your safety) and try to go forward as possible as you can. If you see someone(vehicle on your left/right) coming at you that would mean you may stop there. That way, I'm sure no one gives you a honk.

I have also discovered that every trucks/busses are spewing black smoke incessantly and its quantity looks horribly tremendous. About 1/6 of the emissions on this planet must've been produced by them. Obviously, mechanics in this country are color-blind(in particular black) or probably no longer exists. So... Make sure windows shut and A/C set at "recirculation" position while driving, otherwise your face getting black.

Also, You'd better watch out for 1) speed bumps: the size(height/length) far surpasses US standard, you and your car could get damaged. 2) livestocks: they show up unexpectedly.(I have seen them on 92D LIBRE, not CUOTA). IIRC, insurance doesn't cover animal collision.

I was supposed to be in Acapulco this summer. Although, the vacation plan has been overruled by my boss, am going to go to there again.(maybe next summer, flying to MEX and then driving to Acapulco) Hope all toll gates accepts C/C until then. I hate bringing cash with me.

Acapulco's dirty, not so little drug gang secrets
 

I mentioned previously Acapulco can have periods of unsafety - a long history of drug warlord wars, Hatfield-McCoy style family feuds carried over several generations, and more. Most of tourist Acapulco has been safe, but some of the outlying areas can be unsafe - particularly driving at night, camping on the beaches, hitting the red light district... but some things have changed, with the finding of decapitated heads, gunfights and more.

Currently, a period of high criminal activity exists in Acapulco, so I recommend other, newer destinations like Puerto Vallarta (the rainy season should come to an end in November, but Mexico has had the rainest rainy season in 150 years in some locations) or Cancún if you want higher-end luxe destinations, and Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo or Bahias de Huatulco if you want aras with fewer people and more beauty (in fact, I recommend Zihua over Ixtapa if you want more of a traditional, er, Mexican flavor.)

For an idea of what Acapuco is experiencing right now, see this BBC article.

"In some ways it is appropriate that John Wayne used to holiday in Acapulco, because this once paradise resort for the rich and famous has become a little like the Wild West....

"Acapulco has changed," says Teresa de Jesus Rivas Perez, the director general of the city's Tourist Board.

Commander Fonseca wants new tactics to control gun crime
"I've lived here all my life, but it is not the place it was," she says with suitable understatement. "We must get rid of these gangs so Acapulco can return to what it used to be".