Visiting Taxco, City of Silver and colonial treasure
May 27, 2019, 7:31 pm
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Visiting Taxco, City of Silver and colonial treasure
Taxco de Alarcón, or plain Taxco (TOSS-coe) is a colonial gem south of Cuernavaca, southwest of that city on a mountainous spur off Federal Highway 95D (toll expressway) México - Acapulco freeway. Driving from MEX International Airport should be under three hours using the toll highway taking the sinuous Federal Highway 95 Taxco cutoff via Amacuzác and Puente de Ixtla, with a distance of 115 miles taking the Cuernavaca cutoff. (A detour can be included to visit the amazing and extensive Grutas de Cacahuamilpa cave system, one if the world’s largest. Link.)
Taxco, founded in 1529 and once center of silver mining in Colonial Mexico, is at 5,833 ft of elevation(1,778 m), giving it a cool mountain air. The mines played out, and Taxco became pretty much a dead colonial spot preserved in a remote area until an American, William Spratling (known as “Don Guillermo” in Taxco) came to visit in the 1920s and de used to settle in this beautiful place. Spratling was an architect by profession who had taught at Auburn and Tulane universities, and he decided to open an atelier - workshop - taller, “Las Delicias”, to design, build furniture, tinware and silver jewelry. As there were no local smiths, he began by hiring four goldsmiths from nearby lowland Iguala.
This was the beginning of Taxco’s new life, and Spratling and a number of his smiths designed and manufactured by hand silver jewelry that won international prizes and sold globally. Today, silver is still at the heart of much of Taxco’s commerce, but it has become renowned for its colonial beauty and preservation. The laws require new construction to hew to Colonial detail, at least as visible from the cobblestones streets. Taxco has been named one of Mexico's "Pueblos Mágicos" (Magical Towns) “due to the quality of the silverwork, the colonial constructions and the surrounding scenery”.
Those who enjoy Mexico’s culture and Colonial beauty will find a lovely and vibrant town with much to offer. It’s easy to spend three days or longer here, and though there aren’t many chain hotels there are quaint and charming places to stay, great food and sightseeing, lots of good shopping, clean mountain air - but it can get crowded on weekends with visitors from Mexico City / CdMx, pumping up weekend prices, and doubly so during the annual Silver Fair at the end of November or early December.
Caveat: Taxco is mountainous and sinuous, most of the streets are cobblestone, irregularly laud out and can be steep in places. Taxis are reasonably priced and plentiful. Practical, comfortable walking shoes recommended.
Safety: Though much of the state of Guerrero has experienced problems with personal safety, the Taxco area has not been affected, perhaps due to its relative remoteness.
Getting there: Renting a car is certainly possible from the MEX airport, but you’ll be dealing with crazy CdMx traffic, the two lane sinous Taxco spur once you’re off the 95D superhighway, and wandering, cobblestone streets in Taxco itself. If you’re comfortable with México driving, this will afford you day trips in the area.
You can take the comfortable and ever reliable Estrella de Oro bus from the southern CdMx Taxqueña bus terminal (40 seats, air con, bathroom, video, more like US domestic First class). Taxi or shared shuttle between MEX and Taxqueña station. Frequent De Luxe and Pluss service, a bit over three hours.
Taxi, Uber or other livery driver. This might be the most direct for some, and the cost might be more reasonable than you think. Be prepared to pay superhighway tolls.
Or, from MEX take the bus to Cuernavaca. Unfortunately, the lines use separate stations, so in Cuernavaca you’ll have to taxi to the Estrella de Oro Terminal. Cuernavaca-Taxco busses are not frequent.
One can take day tours from CdMx / México City, but it will be a long trip with perhaps six or seven hours in a bus, anyway.,
Sights:
The central plaza, Plaza Borda or “Zócalo”, with a charming park that often has concerts on weekend evenings, Santa Prisca church and a number of the largest, most famous silver shops started by the Maestros. Casa Borda, housing Casa de Cultura, the extensive city cultural center, is opposite the church. Santa Prisca was built by built between 1751 and 1758 by José de la Borda, whose fortune was made by the silver mined.
Nearby are the Museo William Spratling / Museum, displaying silver and archeological pieces from Spratling's personal collection. The Museum of Viceregal Art, in "Humboldt House" (German writer and explorer Alexander Von Humboldt spent a night here in 1803). Colonial art is on display here.
The impressive colonial silver Ex-Hacienda del Chorrillo, built by followers of conquistadór Hernán Cortés, is on the north side of town. The remains of the original aqueduct date to 1534.
Two other churches of note include the Church of the Ex-monastery of San Bernardino de Siena, dating back to the end of the 16th century (and restored in the 19th after a fire).
The Church of Veracruz, on the square known as Plazuela de la Veracruz, dedicated to playeribht Juan Ruiz de Alarcón, born nearby. “The convent's orchard is now the garden of the Posada San Javier Hotel.”
Taxco El Viejo, the original settlement and site of Spratling’s ranch, which is sometimes open to the public. The Ex silver Hacienda de San Juan Bautista is was builtnin 1543 at the orders if Hernán Cortéz and resembles a medieval castle. The hacienda houses the Regional School of Earth Sciences of the Autonomous University of the state of Guerrero.
An interesting excursion can be made to the nearby waterfall (25 minutes) of Cacalotenango, where there are also walking and horseback riding trails.
Great views can be had by taking a taxi or walking to the old Hotel Victoria, overlooking Taxco. A lunch on its balcony restaurant has stunning views. Link.
The cable car up the hill to the scenic Monte Taxco Hotel out of town is another feast for the eyes.
Silver shopping:
Much of the silver jewelry you see throughout a México was made here, and prices can be great. But: design can range from well Mande handcrafted clothing jewelry of high design to cheap machine made crap. What you want is silver with the hallmark .925, indicating it’s Sterling Silver (925 parts per 1,000 silver, 75 parts copper). Look for weightier pieces that sport good design, ones that will be durable and you’ll be proud to wear or to give.
“Alpaca” means “German Silver”, Nickel silver, Maillechort, Argentan, new silver, nickel brass, albata, alpacca - a copper alloy with nickel and often zinc. The usual formulation is 60% copper, 20% nickel and 20% zinc, not silver at all. The color is a more whitish silver. Ignore it.
Some of the oldest or reliable silver shops:
Antonio Pineda
Ledesma
Los Ballesteros
Los Castillo
Sigi
I’m sure there are others, but I spent some of my childhood here in the 1950s and learned silversmithing myself by observing and hanging around the workshops of the Maestros still around in those days and I’ve not been noodling around Taxco’s shops much lately.
Link to ZIP of PDF map of Taxco.
Taxco, founded in 1529 and once center of silver mining in Colonial Mexico, is at 5,833 ft of elevation(1,778 m), giving it a cool mountain air. The mines played out, and Taxco became pretty much a dead colonial spot preserved in a remote area until an American, William Spratling (known as “Don Guillermo” in Taxco) came to visit in the 1920s and de used to settle in this beautiful place. Spratling was an architect by profession who had taught at Auburn and Tulane universities, and he decided to open an atelier - workshop - taller, “Las Delicias”, to design, build furniture, tinware and silver jewelry. As there were no local smiths, he began by hiring four goldsmiths from nearby lowland Iguala.
This was the beginning of Taxco’s new life, and Spratling and a number of his smiths designed and manufactured by hand silver jewelry that won international prizes and sold globally. Today, silver is still at the heart of much of Taxco’s commerce, but it has become renowned for its colonial beauty and preservation. The laws require new construction to hew to Colonial detail, at least as visible from the cobblestones streets. Taxco has been named one of Mexico's "Pueblos Mágicos" (Magical Towns) “due to the quality of the silverwork, the colonial constructions and the surrounding scenery”.
Those who enjoy Mexico’s culture and Colonial beauty will find a lovely and vibrant town with much to offer. It’s easy to spend three days or longer here, and though there aren’t many chain hotels there are quaint and charming places to stay, great food and sightseeing, lots of good shopping, clean mountain air - but it can get crowded on weekends with visitors from Mexico City / CdMx, pumping up weekend prices, and doubly so during the annual Silver Fair at the end of November or early December.
Caveat: Taxco is mountainous and sinuous, most of the streets are cobblestone, irregularly laud out and can be steep in places. Taxis are reasonably priced and plentiful. Practical, comfortable walking shoes recommended.
Safety: Though much of the state of Guerrero has experienced problems with personal safety, the Taxco area has not been affected, perhaps due to its relative remoteness.
Getting there: Renting a car is certainly possible from the MEX airport, but you’ll be dealing with crazy CdMx traffic, the two lane sinous Taxco spur once you’re off the 95D superhighway, and wandering, cobblestone streets in Taxco itself. If you’re comfortable with México driving, this will afford you day trips in the area.
You can take the comfortable and ever reliable Estrella de Oro bus from the southern CdMx Taxqueña bus terminal (40 seats, air con, bathroom, video, more like US domestic First class). Taxi or shared shuttle between MEX and Taxqueña station. Frequent De Luxe and Pluss service, a bit over three hours.
Taxi, Uber or other livery driver. This might be the most direct for some, and the cost might be more reasonable than you think. Be prepared to pay superhighway tolls.
Or, from MEX take the bus to Cuernavaca. Unfortunately, the lines use separate stations, so in Cuernavaca you’ll have to taxi to the Estrella de Oro Terminal. Cuernavaca-Taxco busses are not frequent.
One can take day tours from CdMx / México City, but it will be a long trip with perhaps six or seven hours in a bus, anyway.,
Sights:
The central plaza, Plaza Borda or “Zócalo”, with a charming park that often has concerts on weekend evenings, Santa Prisca church and a number of the largest, most famous silver shops started by the Maestros. Casa Borda, housing Casa de Cultura, the extensive city cultural center, is opposite the church. Santa Prisca was built by built between 1751 and 1758 by José de la Borda, whose fortune was made by the silver mined.
Nearby are the Museo William Spratling / Museum, displaying silver and archeological pieces from Spratling's personal collection. The Museum of Viceregal Art, in "Humboldt House" (German writer and explorer Alexander Von Humboldt spent a night here in 1803). Colonial art is on display here.
The impressive colonial silver Ex-Hacienda del Chorrillo, built by followers of conquistadór Hernán Cortés, is on the north side of town. The remains of the original aqueduct date to 1534.
Two other churches of note include the Church of the Ex-monastery of San Bernardino de Siena, dating back to the end of the 16th century (and restored in the 19th after a fire).
The Church of Veracruz, on the square known as Plazuela de la Veracruz, dedicated to playeribht Juan Ruiz de Alarcón, born nearby. “The convent's orchard is now the garden of the Posada San Javier Hotel.”
Taxco El Viejo, the original settlement and site of Spratling’s ranch, which is sometimes open to the public. The Ex silver Hacienda de San Juan Bautista is was builtnin 1543 at the orders if Hernán Cortéz and resembles a medieval castle. The hacienda houses the Regional School of Earth Sciences of the Autonomous University of the state of Guerrero.
An interesting excursion can be made to the nearby waterfall (25 minutes) of Cacalotenango, where there are also walking and horseback riding trails.
Great views can be had by taking a taxi or walking to the old Hotel Victoria, overlooking Taxco. A lunch on its balcony restaurant has stunning views. Link.
The cable car up the hill to the scenic Monte Taxco Hotel out of town is another feast for the eyes.
Silver shopping:
Much of the silver jewelry you see throughout a México was made here, and prices can be great. But: design can range from well Mande handcrafted clothing jewelry of high design to cheap machine made crap. What you want is silver with the hallmark .925, indicating it’s Sterling Silver (925 parts per 1,000 silver, 75 parts copper). Look for weightier pieces that sport good design, ones that will be durable and you’ll be proud to wear or to give.
“Alpaca” means “German Silver”, Nickel silver, Maillechort, Argentan, new silver, nickel brass, albata, alpacca - a copper alloy with nickel and often zinc. The usual formulation is 60% copper, 20% nickel and 20% zinc, not silver at all. The color is a more whitish silver. Ignore it.
Some of the oldest or reliable silver shops:
Antonio Pineda
Ledesma
Los Ballesteros
Los Castillo
Sigi
I’m sure there are others, but I spent some of my childhood here in the 1950s and learned silversmithing myself by observing and hanging around the workshops of the Maestros still around in those days and I’ve not been noodling around Taxco’s shops much lately.
Link to ZIP of PDF map of Taxco.
Jun 3, 2019, 1:10 pm
#3
Join Date: Nov 2007
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Posts: 2,505
Excellent write-up, J Diver!
I have been several times, wonderful and beautiful town. Has almost an French/Italian Alpine feel with the narrow cobblestone streets, twisty roads, etc. Even in high-season it is not very expensive (of course, thats relative to your budget) - on my first visit my (now) wife took me there impulsively a couple of days after Christmas with no lodging arrangements. In 45 minutes we found a very large and nice hotel room (hotel Melendez) barely a block off the zocalo with a balcony that had a straight on view to St. Priska for about $60/night. (Originally, the hotel said they had a "small" room "downstairs" for $50 but if we wanted to spend a little more we could get a balcony room. Oh boy, here it comes, I thought....and the upgrade was only $10/night more!). Prices for other, nicer
Santa Prisca is a beautiful church from 1700's. IIRC, it has a painting depicting the circumcision of Jesus, one of only 2 such paintings known in the western Hemisphere.... Had some very nice meals at the La Parroquia restaurant sitting in the topmost level overlooking the zocalo. evenings in the zocalo watching the younger kids play, older kids courting, eating esquites and raspado (CAREFUL!), is a nice way to enjoy the town.
The view from the restaurant/resort across the valley is worth it!
I have been several times, wonderful and beautiful town. Has almost an French/Italian Alpine feel with the narrow cobblestone streets, twisty roads, etc. Even in high-season it is not very expensive (of course, thats relative to your budget) - on my first visit my (now) wife took me there impulsively a couple of days after Christmas with no lodging arrangements. In 45 minutes we found a very large and nice hotel room (hotel Melendez) barely a block off the zocalo with a balcony that had a straight on view to St. Priska for about $60/night. (Originally, the hotel said they had a "small" room "downstairs" for $50 but if we wanted to spend a little more we could get a balcony room. Oh boy, here it comes, I thought....and the upgrade was only $10/night more!). Prices for other, nicer
Santa Prisca is a beautiful church from 1700's. IIRC, it has a painting depicting the circumcision of Jesus, one of only 2 such paintings known in the western Hemisphere.... Had some very nice meals at the La Parroquia restaurant sitting in the topmost level overlooking the zocalo. evenings in the zocalo watching the younger kids play, older kids courting, eating esquites and raspado (CAREFUL!), is a nice way to enjoy the town.
The view from the restaurant/resort across the valley is worth it!
Last edited by Section 107; Jun 3, 2019 at 1:13 pm Reason: more info
