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Great White Shark / White Pointer diving in Mexico

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Great White Shark / White Pointer diving in Mexico

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Old Aug 9, 2012, 11:06 am
  #1  
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Great White Shark / White Pointer diving in Mexico

I've just returned from Isla Guadalupe, 185 miles from Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico on the 116 foot Motor Vessel Nautilus Explorer. 22 hours out, a bit less on the return, and three spectacular days of diving with great white sharks. The boat holds 24 passengers, mostly in en suite cabins, and provides very safe conditions for diving with great white sharks as well as good food and a very knowledgeable and attentive staff.

M/V Nautilus Explorer is Transports Canada licensed, SOLAS certified - you can't get much better than that - and their cages and divemaster "cage pilots" are top notch. It's pricey, but that's called for due to the expenditures of fuel, accommodations, food, staff and - the safety features. Just about everything to do with the shark diving has multiple redundancy safety features - the steel cages are strong, and are attached by the umbilicals (surface-supplied air, ballast tank air and steel cable), a 18,000 lb test line to the winch, two scuba tanks with spare regulators and air supply to the ballast tanks; the air supply itself is from a compressor, backed by high pressure banks, backed by a backup generator, etc. etc.

I can not recommend these guys enough - we had lots of dives over three days, and each with anywhere from two to seven sharks per dive, as close as forearm's length.
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Old Aug 9, 2012, 10:53 pm
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Thanks for the trip report. Love hearing about it. Been wanting to go to SA to do some cage diving, but Mexico is a bit closer.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 4:05 pm
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Hella closer! And, better visibility (we had over 100 ft vis), warmer water, more sharks, less / no chumming = more natural behaviors, etc. We traveled to San Diego (and we had some who flew in from SEA), caught the group bus to Ensenada, boarded the Nautilus Explorer for the 185 mile / 20 hour trip out and enjoyed three truly spectacular days of cage diving. Unbelievably finely planned, lots of safety backups, etc.


Scubaben's photo shows it pretty much as it is

We met at a San Diego hotel for the trip and departed for Ensenada in a fairly comfortable bus, completed border formalities at the San Ysidro / Tijuana crossing (you may or may not have to schlep bags and have them inspected, but as the baggage "helpers" who make tips are not there in the evening it seems there is less pressure to do this) and arrived dockside at about 10 PM. In short order, we boarded to a welcome drink, accommodation assignment and by the time the MS Nautilus Explorer departed we were sound asleep in our cabin.

Waking to a rolling sea (3 - 5 feet from starboard), we had a nice breakfast and spent much of the day at leisure, working on camera gear, etc. and arrived at Isla Guadalupe at about 5 PM. The sheltered area on the west side of the extinct volcano the boat anchors in (at 265 feet depth) is well sheltered and actually has a "donut hole" during clouds and fog that allow a more comfortable and sunny climate. As we arrived, crew swarmed the decks and began preparing and deploying the cages for the next morning.

The next morning there were four cages: two tied up to the stern, one with an eight foot depth or so, and another with an 18 foot floor. These two cages, with surface supplied air provided to regulators, were open basically dawn to dusk to anyone who wished to use them. Divemasters helped those who were not divers (and we had a few onboard) learn how to suit up, weight and use the gear. (Most of us, however, were very experienced divers, perhaps a third Master or instructor-level.)

Two more cages were used, and these were submersible cages on a 45 minute rotation by assignment (though there was some haggling with people exchanging positions). One cage held two and the other four. These were attached to the ship by a umbilical that included a heavy steel cable and the surface supplied air hoses, as well as by a strong line, which was used to winch the cages. The cages were also provided with ballast tanks, connected to the surface air as well as to hoses to the two scuba tanks with extra regulators (in case of air supply interruption from the surface).


This could be you, with "Smiley"!

Yes, lots of safety and the cages themselves were very well thought out and sturdy - sharks occasionally try a chew on the cage bars, and there is no problem the cage will succumb (as others in notorious videos have). The submersible cages go to 40 foot depths, with a divemaster guiding the cage form atop - he can duck down the hatch if needed - and there is also a "balcony" arrangement for those who wish to experience open water with sharks to stand up atop the cage (but in fact, those who did spent much of their time with their heads on swivels and found it more comfortable and easier to video / photo from within the cages).

Water temperatures were 65 - 66 degrees F, visibility ranged from 80 feet and somewhat milky due to currents bringing up fine particulate ash from the volcano to 130 feet. We never failed to have 2 - 8 great white sharks, up to two tons large - come up to investigate us, and they swam 'round the cages and occasionally came within an easy arm's reach (which nobody took them up on). At this time of year, a bit early in the season, we only saw one female, most of the early-arriving sharks being males. We also saw few elephant seals (at up to over 5,000 lbs, the sharks' main attraction here) and a lot of Guadalupe fur seals, mostly ashore but on occasion we saw a seal actually swimming up to sharks and swim around them, teasing them and remaining out of reach (but I'll bet there are no old, old seals here!) The sun deck hot tub was nice too.

Gear: bring your drysuit for best comfort, but a 7mm or 5mm with vest etc. may do, mask, gloves and booties, and I heartily recommend some neoprene for your head as well. The boat provides DUI weight harnesses (we all overweighted for ease and stability in the cages), surface supplied and scuba backup regulators. Dress is informal, bring something warm for the occasionally cloudy or foggy times. Meclezine or your favorite motion sickness meds and / or ginger are good to bring along, as it can get "non-Pacific" on the crossings; we had up to six foot swells from close to abeam and some did get seasick. Leave your regs, computers, etc. at home, bring more memory than you think you will need for your photo / video gear, plenty of batteries for the camera / charging station, and prepare to enjoy.

We spent three days diving with majestic great white sharks, observing natural behaviors, as there is no chumming (some boats use mixtures of blood and bits and pieces of fish, etc. even though this is prohibited in Guadalupe), and no overt feeding. A chunk of tuna was in burlap in the cages, and the effect seemed to mainly bring out large schools of yellowtails. This meant no overstimulated sharks and no bits of chum blowing about messing up photo / video.

Food and service were great - every time one emerged from the cages, there was hot chocolate, tea or water available, as well as a variety of snacks and towels. Staff was amazingly attentive, and food was quite good - all buffet style, with a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, fish, chicken, beef with vegetarian options. The bar had over 40 wines as well as mixed drinks and even a menu of single malt Scotches.

The 116' long range steel-hulled boat itself is quite comfortable without being a luxury yacht, with most cabins having en-suite. The boat was built to specs in Canada, and is licensed by Transports Canada, SOLAS certified and Lloyds insured and inspected. Crew is Canadian (Captain, mate and engineer) and Mexican with a sprinkling of others.

After three days of spending a lot of up close and personal time with great white sharks (many 15 - 16 feet) we spent another 22 hours returning to Ensenada and our bus, crossing at Otay Mesa (shorter queues, must schlep bags a couple of blocks - bring rollies!) and arriving late afternoon in San Diego.

If you feel like you want the experience of a lifetime and diving with great white sharks, be sure to spend five nights / six days for the Nautilus Explorer trip to Isla Guadalupe, 185 miles west of Ensenada.

For some nice videos, search youtube or vimeo for nautilus explorer guadalupe sharks. Though many of us took photos and video, this 6:45 video on Vimeo is, I guarantee, accurate (with the single exception of someone trolling a piece of tuna past sharks, which does not happen anymore).

As one who has dived over 30 countries and five decades, with may sharks, I highly recommend it!

Originally Posted by RacingJunkie
Thanks for the trip report. Love hearing about it. Been wanting to go to SA to do some cage diving, but Mexico is a bit closer.

Last edited by JDiver; Sep 16, 2012 at 6:27 pm
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Old May 16, 2015, 11:58 am
  #4  
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Since we can now embed video, here's Chris Weech's excellent video from our trip:


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Old May 21, 2015, 2:20 pm
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Wow, JDiver, that's excellent - thanks for sharing!

I think we are all brought up to believe sharks are voracious eaters - destroying everything in their path, so why wouldn't they go after the schools of fish just inches away?
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Old May 21, 2015, 11:23 pm
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Originally Posted by Section 107
Wow, JDiver, that's excellent - thanks for sharing!

I think we are all brought up to believe sharks are voracious eaters - destroying everything in their path, so why wouldn't they go after the schools of fish just inches away?
These guys (mostly males that early in the season) are at Guadalupe to hunt and eat elephant seals weighing 3,000-4,000 kg / 6,600 - 8,800 lbs. But these sharks were curious, and even breached to see what was going on on and in the boat. I spotted one / one spotted me when I was in the saloon getting a hot drink, another popped up to eyeball my nephew as he maintained his video syste. They were not breaching elsewhere; they were interested in us.
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