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Old May 16, 2014, 12:00 pm
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more Ireland luxury hotel reviews

I recently returned from a 7 night trip to Ireland and visited a number of properties during my trip. Here is a review of those visits.

Note that I posted an earlier review two years ago and saw two hotels for a second time — Dromoland Castle and The Merrion. I have updated those earlier reviews in this article.



COUNTY MAYO

First established in 1228, Ashford Castle has been one of the great estates of Ireland throughout its history. It was purchased in 1852 by the Guinness family who used it as a summer getaway until they sold the estate in 1939. Reopening as a hotel in 1940, it was acquired by Red Carnation Hotels in July, 2013. The present owners have undertaken an extensive renovation, with future improvements planned. Prior to this renovation, the hotel had been described as "tired" and very much in need of restoration. I can report that the results are stunning. The hardwood paneled walls in public spaces are gorgeous. Waterford chandeliers are found throughout the property. Custom carpets have been installed, and guestroom walls are padded with silk fabrics. Large windows with lush draperies overlook the lake or the extensive grounds. The original gardens have been brought back to their original splendor. From the moment you cross the stone bridge onto the grounds of the castle (our way was led by a bagpiper), guests experience an incredible sense of history.

Further restorations are planned, and a new spa and cigar terrace are being created.

The food is wonderful, the creations of the pastry chef dangerously good (!), and there are plenty of outdoor activities for summer visitors. Good fishing on the lake (one of our group caught a salmon which became our amuse bouche that night at dinner). We enjoyed a falconry demonstration at the onsight falconry school. Guests can enjoy horseback riding, tennis, and a nine hole golf course (with plans to create another nine holes).

Ashford Castle is located on the shore of Lough Corrib, the second largest lake in Ireland, and is a pleasant ten minute stroll from the small village of Cong, famous for the 1952 film The Quiet Man starring John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara. Cong has small shops and pubs with opportunities to explore and dine offsite.


COUNTY CLARE

Dromoland Castle was originally built in 1730 and converted to a hotel in 1963. The hotel has three buildings, each built at a different time in the castle's history. Both in 2012 and during this visit, I saw rooms in each building. My opinion: request a room in the Main Tower as opposed to the East Wing and the Queen Anne Courtyard. The Main Tower is the most elegant building in the complex with 18 foot ceilings on both floors, as well as the guest reception, spa, dining facilities, and bar.


I stayed in what I believe was an Executive Suite in the East Wing. The room was large and comfortable, although I found the styling a bit lackluster. The tiled bathroom was large with dual vanities, tub, and a step-in shower with great water pressure.


During my 2012 site inspection, I was able to see rooms in the Main Tower. As with many older buildings, every room is different both in terms of styling and room features. One Deluxe we saw had a a light green color scheme that did not appeal to me, but Deluxe rooms in a rich yellow and in a blue decorating motif were quite attractive. Definitely ask to see several rooms when you check in so that you can choose from the available accommodations. There is also diversity in terms of single vs. double vanities and step-in showers, and you'll want to weigh all of these factors in making your selection.

Deluxe rooms are nicely proportioned, but the upgraded rooms are even nicer. We saw a Tower Deluxe room with a view of the lake and 18th green that was quite appealing, but the real WOW rooms were State Rooms. These had high ceilings and tall windows, bringing a lot of natural light into the room. The Brian Borv Suite was also a wonderful accommodation.

Dromoland Castle offers a golf course, a stocked pond, a 70 meter indoor pool, falconry lessons, as well as a sense of history in a 300 year old castle. Dromoland gets a lot of tour business, and you may encounter a number of tour groups and busses during your stay.


Gregans Castle Hotel is an undiscovered gem in County Clare. After a morning tour of the Cliffs of Moher and the Burren National Park, we had lunch and a site inspection at this property. Though only rated four stars, don't be fooled, as Irish star ratings depend on a check list of sometimes arbitrary criterion — for instance, a hotel must have doormen to be rated 5*, which would have been totally out of character for Gregans Castle. We received a warm personal welcome at the front door by the Director of the hotel.

First, note that Gregans Castle is not a castle but a wonderful 18th century country manor house with a most restful atmosphere and views of the Burren hills and Galway Bay, and landscaped with woodland gardens. I loved the hotel the minute I stepped inside and before I experienced anything else.

Second, a great, award winning restaurant whose large windows look onto the views just described. We had just the perfect lunch — a pea & Parmesan Rissoto, followed by an exquisite Dark Chocolate Truffle Cake for dessert.

Third, the rooms. Overlook the lack of step-in showers, as everything else about the rooms is wonderful. Each room is unique and designed by the Director's wife, herself a talented artist. The colors are restful and the styling is tasteful.

Not Virtuoso, but breakfast is included in the reasonable rates, upgrades are possible, and my clients will receive (with a two night stay) a complimentary half day walking tour of the Burren National Park led by one of the most engaging and colorful tour guides you'll ever meet. He lives right next to Gregans Castle.

The hotel has warmth, personality, and beauty that is beyond my ability to express in words. Former guests include C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien. If my description engages you, trust me. This is where you want to stay in County Clare.



COUNTY KILDARE

K Club is shorthand for the "Kildare Hotel, Spa, and Country Club" — a nickname no doubt meaningful for Club members but not especially descriptive to the outside world. Our advice to the hotel would be to rethink their branding... but beyond this critique of its marketing, there's much to recommend this property.

The rooms are beautiful and spacious — I would describe them as classically elegant. I was shown an Executive Suite at the corner of the hotel, and it's truly a WOW accommodation. Be aware that every room is decorated differently, so definitely worthwhile to use someone who knows the rooms at K Club to make the booking (such as my UK hotel guru, Jonathan) as I found the majority of rooms to be quite attractive while a very few did strike me as "tired." The K Club is a true five star experience offering great food, two 18 hole golf courses (one of which hosted the Ryder Cup), and a great spa.

An ideal hotel at which to spend your last nights in Ireland as it's a half hour from the Dublin airport and you can avoid going through town. Also close enough to Dublin to go into town for sightseeing or to do your last-minute shopping.


DUBLIN

The Merrion is my choice if you want to be in the center of Dublin, a small, charming city with beautiful rows of Georgian mansions, shops, and Irish pubs. The hotel was created from four side-by-side Georgian mansions and is joined to a new Garden Wing that is built around a garden courtyard

A traditional hotel with a strong sense of place, The Merrion remind me of The Goring, a very traditional hotel in London. While neither offers the "latest and greatest" in terms of contemporary fixtures and furnishings, this misses the point. I enjoyed the feeling of staying in a traditional Dublin mansion with its high ceilinged ground floor, able to step out the front door into the heart of Dublin.

We spent two nights in 2012 in a Deluxe Room in the Georgian mansion. A bit over 400 square feet, the room felt spacious. A King bed on one side of the room faced the front windows, while the other side of the room provided a large sitting and working area. Most rooms in the hotel have a step-in shower (but not all), so be sure to make this request if a separate shower is important to you. Our bathroom had a single vanity next to the toilet.

The Garden Wing houses the lead-in Standard and Superior Rooms; I believe the Virtuoso contract begins with the Superior category. We were shown a Garden Superior room during our 2014 site visit. The soft goods renovation undertaken over the last two years have made these very pleasant and affordable guestrooms — although Deluxe rooms in the Georgian Mansion are definitely to be preferred.


The Westin Dublin was a real surprise, perhaps the nicest Westin I've ever seen, in a great location, literally in the center of Dublin. The hotel is undergoing a complete soft goods renovation, and the results are extremely attractive. The color scheme employs a masculine color palette using soft greens and earth tones. Celtic symbols are used in the carpeting and on the trim of the window drapes. We were shown a Classic room and a Deluxe Suite. While the Classic room is compact, it is large enough for a short stay and represents a great value, especially with the Virtuoso amenities. The Deluxe Suite has a bedroom and living area separated by a door and both areas are quite nice in size.

The hotel uses the space of an historical building previously used as a bank. If you get a chance, take a look at the ballroom created from the space that formerly housed the great hall of the bank... or visit the bar and restaurant in the bank's former vault.


COUNTY LAOIS

The ultimate WOW, Ballyfin is an elaborate 18th century manor house that has been lovingly and meticulously restored by an owner willing to spend whatever it takes to create perfection. The intention: that you have the experience of being a house guest in a luxurious home. Set on 610 acres of woods, lawns, and a 28 acre lake, the rooms and suites are spacious and gorgeous, furnished with antiques, four poster beds, padded silk wall coverings, lush drapery fabrics. The public spaces are over-the-top — working wood burning fireplaces, ornate detailing, elaborate parquet, period art on the walls. Words cannot capture this experience; see this link for some pictures.

Ballyfin is all-inclusive. The room rate includes three meals a day, complimentary minibar, and a cocktail reception before dinner each evening. About the only added expense you'll incur, other than some of the outdoor recreational activities, is the wine you order at lunch or dinner ... and the Virtuoso amenities include one bottle of wine paired to your menu selection. Meals are excellent (the restaurant is a member of Relais & Chateaux), and you can even select a tasting menu.

Ever wonder what it would be like to live at Downton Abby? Ballyfin represents the closest that most of us are likely to experience, and a simple jacket will suffice at dinner ... quite more comfortable than the lifestyle of the Granthams.

Last edited by DavidO; May 16, 2014 at 12:43 pm
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Old May 16, 2014, 9:38 pm
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Thank you again for your detailed TRs & for the updates , timely as we are returning in Sep .

Thrilled to know that Ashford Castle is even better now though was already quite wonderful when we stayed , previous owners did start a marvellous job ( other than the Guinness family ) .. Super about the food , relieved still superb .. pastries !! Was there 7 years ago , how time flies .
Glad you made it to the falconry , try feeding them - owls , hawks .. ?

Last edited by FlyerEC; May 17, 2014 at 2:08 am
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Old May 16, 2014, 9:45 pm
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Cheers for the reports. I've got to put Ireland somewhere near the top of my wishlist!
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Old May 16, 2014, 10:26 pm
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Originally Posted by FlyerEC
Glad you made it to the falconry , try feeding them - owls , hawks .. ?
Yup, we got to have them fly off, then return and eat the piece of chicken that the trainer had placed in our glove. A lot of fun!
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Old May 17, 2014, 3:57 am
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Originally Posted by DavidO
Yup, we got to have them fly off, then return and eat the piece of chicken that the trainer had placed in our glove. A lot of fun!
This is on my bucket list.
Thanks for the wonderful report as always.
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Old May 17, 2014, 6:16 pm
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Originally Posted by DavidO
Yup, we got to have them fly off, then return and eat the piece of chicken that the trainer had placed in our glove. A lot of fun!
Yes , that it was -
For those going to Ashford Castle , do take a walk in the woods with one of the trainers / owl , etc & experience how the birds silently swoop from ' nowhere ' to take their ' prey ' .
Very safe
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Old May 18, 2014, 11:32 am
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Thanks, David. Will be at the Merrion in September and looking forward to it. Wish I had more time for a stop at Ballyfin. Next time!
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Old Sep 3, 2015, 9:36 am
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Originally Posted by uggboy
Is it really that good?
The exterior looks great and it seems their new Spa with swimming pool is just open.
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Old Sep 4, 2015, 5:44 am
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Originally Posted by Pierre&Cédric
Is it really that good?
The exterior looks great and it seems their new Spa with swimming pool is just open.
It's really that good! A great falconry program, and do have a ghillie take you out on the lough (lake).
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Old Sep 4, 2015, 7:31 am
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Originally Posted by LindaTerrill
It's really that good! A great falconry program, and do have a ghillie take you out on the lough (lake).
From Paris in Autumn there are flights to Dublin only, meaning a 3-hour drive before reaching the hotel
I think we will stil try to go, it looks appealing ^
Which accommodation type shall we choose?
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Old Sep 4, 2015, 8:31 am
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Originally Posted by Pierre&Cédric
From Paris in Autumn there are flights to Dublin only, meaning a 3-hour drive before reaching the hotel
I think we will stil try to go, it looks appealing ^
Which accommodation type shall we choose?
If you want a shorter drive, pick Ballyfin instead. You won't regret it.
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Old Sep 5, 2015, 7:28 am
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Originally Posted by Pierre&Cédric
Which accommodation type shall we choose?
Staterooms are magnificent. Brilliant architect who designed the bathrooms to modern luxury standards within the original castle walls. Ireland is one of my favorite counties to visit -- love the people, and you have to go to understand their warmth, humor and hospitality -- and Ashford Castle is the icing on the cake. I had lunch and a tour of Ballyfin on my last trip, but didn't stay. Stunning! Planning to go back next summer and stay.

Too enthusiastic? Perhaps .... but many wonderful memories in Ireland.
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Old Sep 5, 2015, 9:29 am
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Originally Posted by LindaTerrill
Staterooms are magnificent. Brilliant architect who designed the bathrooms to modern luxury standards within the original castle walls. Ireland is one of my favorite counties to visit -- love the people, and you have to go to understand their warmth, humor and hospitality -- and Ashford Castle is the icing on the cake. I had lunch and a tour of Ballyfin on my last trip, but didn't stay. Stunning! Planning to go back next summer and stay.

Too enthusiastic? Perhaps .... but many wonderful memories in Ireland.
Thank you for your advice!
Ballyfin was already fully booked so we chose a Stateroom at Ashford Castle. 3-hour drive from the airport to the hotel but for the way back it seems helicopter transfer is an option. Can't wait!
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